THE DYE YIELDING PLANTS USED IN TRADITIONAL … orellana Linn., Butea monosperma Taub., Clitoria...

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Int. J. LifeSc. Bt & Pharm. Res. 2012 Pijush Kanti Das and Amal Kumar Mondal, 2012

THE DYE YIELDING PLANTS USED INTRADITIONAL ART OF 'PATCHITRA' IN PINGLA

AND MAT CRAFTS IN SABANG WITHPROSPECTING PROPER MEDICINAL VALUE INTHE PASCHIM MEDINIPUR DISTRICT, WEST

BENGAL, INDIA

Pijush Kanti Das1 and Amal Kumar Mondal1*

Research Paper

The present paper highlights the uses of dye yielding plants by the local people in two famoushandicraft- ‘Patchitra’ in Pingla and ‘Mat craft’ in Sabang areas of paschim Medinipur district anddeliberation their act of living. The indigenous knowledge of using the natural dye from plantshas been carried out their tradition from generation to generation without any transformation. Inthis investigation there are 15 dye yielding plants belonging to 11 families have been recordedviz. Acacia catechu (L.f) Willd., Aegle marmelos (Linn.) Correa ex Roxb. Basella alba Linn.,Bixa orellana Linn., Butea monosperma Taub., Clitoria ternatea Linn., Curcuma longa Linn.,Enhydra fluctuans Lour., Erythrina suberosa Roxb., Lawsonia inermis Linn., Nyctanthesarbortristis Linn., Peristrophe tinctoria Nees. Tagetes erecta Linn., Tectona grandis Linn. f.,Wedelia chinensis Merril, collected information about few plant species which used largely inmedicine by local vaid’s and local ethnic people. The present study is to focus about the usefulnessof natural dye in the traditional job in the district and to make a conscious of actual need ofconservation indigenous knowledge through natural dye yielding plants. Enumeration includesbotanical name of species, vernacular name, family, plant description, dye yielding plant parts,parts used and details about the medicinal properties.

Keywords: Dye yielding plants, Natural dye, Synthetic dye, Ethnic people, Conservation

*Corresponding Author: Amal Kumar Mondal,[email protected]

ISSN 2250-3137 www.ijlbpr.comVol. 1, No. 2, April 2012

© 2012 IJLBPR. All Rights Reserved

Int. J. LifeSc. Bt & Pharm. Res. 2012

1 Plant Taxonomy, Biosystematics and Molecular Taxonomy Laboratory, Department of Botany and Forestry, Vidyasagar University,Midnapore, West Bengal, India.

INTRODUCTIONThe making of natural dye is one of the oldest

known to man and dates back to the dawn of

human civilization. Color on clothing has been

extensively used since 5000 years back (Kar and

Borthakur, 2008). It was practice during the Indus

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river valley civilization at Mohenjodaro and

Harappa (3500BC), former Egyptian and China

period (Siva, 2007). Moldenke (I.C) reports that

an orange or yellow impermanent dye is made

from corolla tubes of Nyctanthes arbortristis Linn.,

for Buddhist robes in Sri Lanka (Panigrahi and

Murti, 1989-1999). In the making of natural dyes

the uses of mordant to hold fast the dye and to

prevent them from touching the cloth were printed

bales of soft textile. In India there are more than

450 plants out of 17000 plants have been recorded

that can produce dye, among these plants, which

have potential proper medicinal value. In 19th

century the discovery of synthetic dyes has been

dealt a massive blow to Indian textile industry.

Research has been shown that the vast uses of

synthetic dyes associated with hazards effecting

human body system; it causes skin cancer,

temporary or permanent blindness and also the

respiratory system etc. (Dubey, 2007). The aim

of the present investigation that gathering

indigenous knowledge of two famous handicraft

on the basis of natural dyes and medicinal uses

of ‘Patchitra’ in Pingla (Das et al., 2011, Das and

Mondal, 2008) and Mat crafts in Sabang P.S of

Paschim Medinipur district, West Bengal and to

promote ethnic and local people to maintan their

traditional art of weaving and design(Mohanta and

Tiwari, 2005).

MATERIALS AND METHODSExtensive field survey and plant collection were

under taken from two P.S of the districts are (1)

Pingla [22016'1'' N latitude and 87037'36" E

longitude] (2) Sabang [2208'15" N Latitude and

87038'5'' E Longitude] since March-2008 to Feb-

2010. In Pingla the village of ‘Naya’ famous for its

traditional ‘Patchitra’ (cloth / paper painting) and

Sabang, its traditional Mat crafts. These two

famous handicrafts are still brilliant as ever for its

own recognization. During the survey of natural

dyes used by the different communities of the

district viz. Chitrakar, Baities, Mahishya etc. were

documented and traditional knowledge and

various ethnobotanical information on dye yielding

plants was recorded through personal interview

and attaching person of making natural dye as

well as making crafts. Collected plants

specimens were deposited in the Botany

Department herbarium of Vidyasagar University.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONIn the study about 15 dye yielding plants belonging

to 11 families (Figures 1-15) are widely used by

the local communities for making in two famous

handicraft. The ‘Patchitra’ art (Figures 16a and

16b) from dates back to more than 1600 years

and distributed in the different parts of the zone

in India. In southern parts of West Bengal, the

Paschim Medinipur districtit was practiced

traditionally by the villager’s people of Naya in

Pingla. During making of ‘Patchitra’ they have

followed few techniques to obtain and utilized the

natural dye from plants.

Method of dye preparation for making of

‘Patchitra’

1. They collect the dye yielding plants parts viz.

seed, leaf, flower, root and bark etc. and

crushed the parts. After crushing the plant parts

they have obtained the dye, and then it placed

into sunlight for sun drying.

2. Then the sun drying material mixed with

naturally obtained gum from Aegle marmelos

(Linn.) and applied in the cloth /paper for future

painting.

‘Patachitra’ is famous not only its painting but

also provide story line and song of each and every

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Figure 1a: The Plantof Acacia catechu (L.f) willd

Figure 1b: The Reddish Brown Dye Yieldedby the Heart Wood of Acacia catechu

Figure 2a: The Plant of Aegle marmelos(Linn.) Correa ex Roxb

Figure 2b: The Yellow dye Yielded by theFruit shell of Aegle marmelos

Figure 3a: The Plant of Basella alba Linn Figure 3b: The maroon colour yielded by theripe fruit's saps of Basella alba

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Figure 4a: The plant of Bixa orellana Linn

Figure 4b: The orange dye yieldedby the seed of Bixa orellana

Figure 5b: The yellow dye yielded by theflower of Butea monosperma

Figure 5a: The plant ofButea monosperma Taub

Figure 6a: The plant of Clitoria ternatea Linn Figure 6b: The blue dye yielded by theflower of Clitoria ternatea

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Figure 9b: The dark brown dye yielded bythe stem bark of Erythrina suberosa

Figure 9a: The plantof Erythrina suberosa Roxb

Figure 7b: The yellow dye yielded by therhizome of Curcuma longa

Figure 8b: The light green colour yielded bythe leaves of Enhydra fluctuans

Figure 7a: The plant of Curcuma longa Linn Figure 8a: The plant ofEnhydra fluctuans Lour

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Figure 10a: The plantof Lawsonia inermis Linn

Figure 10b: The reddish brown dye yielded bythe macerated leaves of Lawsonia inermis

Figure 11a: The plant ofNyctanthes arbortristis Linn

Figure 11b: The orange colour yielded bythe flower tube of Nyctanthes arbortristis

Figure 12a: The plant ofPeristrophe tinctoria Nees

Figure 12b: The red dye yielded by the wholeplant of Peristrophe tinctoria

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Figure 13a: The plant ofTagetes erecta Linn

Figure 13b: The golden yellow colouryielded by the flower of Tagetes erecta

Figure 14a: The plant ofTectona grandis Linn

Figure 14b: The red dye yielded by themacerated leaves of Tectona grandis

Figure 15a: The plant ofWedelia chinensis Merril

Figure 15b: The black dye yielded by theroot of Wedelia chinensis

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picture viz. AIDS, Manasa mangal, Chand

Sawdagar and many famous mythological story

and drama.

The history of mat crafts in India dates back to

Indus Vally Civilization. During the 19th - 20th

century it was highlighted as socio-economic

aspect (Maitry, 1996). The finar variety of mats,

especially manufactured from madur grass

(Cyperus tagetum Roxb.) (Figure 17a and 17b).

Method of dye preparation for dyeing in Mat

crafts

The plant Peristrophe tinctoria Nees is widely

used in making the dye for mat crafts, it has three

steps like:

1. The dye is generally prepared by boiling the

drying crushed material from whole plant mixed

with soft water.

Figure 16a: A type of 'Patchitra' that carringtha mythological story of 'Santal'

Figure 16b: A type of 'Patchitra' that carringtha story of 'Manasa mangal'

Figure 17a: The Madur grassCyperus tegetum Roxb

Figure 17b: The finer variety Mashland Mat

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Table 1: Details about 15 dye yielding(belonging 11 families) plants species of Paschim Medinipur district, West Bengal.

Acaciacatechu (L.f)Willd.

Aeglemarmelos(Linn.)Correa exRoxb.

Basellaalba Linn.

BixaorellanaLinn.

Khair

Bel

Poi

Sindure,Latkan

Mimosaceae

Rutaceae

Basellaceae

Bixaceae

A moderate sized tree.Bark dark grayish-brown, nearly 1.3cm inthickness, exfoliating inlong narrow strips.Sapwood yellowishwhite but heartwoodred. Leaves pinnate witha pair of recurvedprickles at base ofrachis; pinnae 40-80;leaflets 60-100, small,ligulate. Flowers darkyellow in cylindricalspikes; pods thin,glabrous, strap-shaped,dark brown.

A medium sized,deciduous tree, about12m high; young stemswith 1-2 axillary hardthrons. Leaves trifoliate;leaflets elliptic or ovate-lanceolate. Flowersgrennish white, sweetscented. Calyx –lobes 4-5, free above, ciliate.Petals 4-5. Stamensmore than 40. Fruitglobose or ellipsoid witha woody, grennish-yellow rind. Seedsembedded in mucilageand orange or yellowsweet pulp.

Winding or creeping.Stems and petiolesusually red or green.Leaves broadly ovate tooblong, green. Spikessimple; rachies thick;flowers at first closetogether, graduallymore spaced; elliptic.Stamens 5, epipetalousincluded; Ovary 1-celled; ovule 1, basal;styles 3; stigmas linear.Pseudoberry depressed-globose, lobed, shoningblack, containing aviolet juice.

A small evergreen tree.Leaves cordate, acuminate,veins curved, longerthan broad. Flowerspink or white interminal panicles. Fruitan ovoid or subglobosecapsule, softly echinate.Seeds 50, small, trigonous,with a pulpy outercovering. Occurs intwo forms: One withwhite flowers and greencapsules and the otherwith pink flower andred capsules.

Heartwoodof theplant.

Fruitsshell.

Fresh ripefruits.

Seeds

Cutch obtained by boilingthe heartwood chips inwater and cooling theliquid of certainconsistency is the mostimportant dye product,which yields reddish-brown colour. The saidpopular dye is used fordying cotton, silk andcanvas.

Crushed the fruit shellboild in water andobtained the yellowcolour which is used forcolouring cottongarments.

Saps from the ripe fruitsyielding the marooncolour which is used fordyeing silk and cottoncloth and also used forcolouring food, printingpurposes like “Patachitra”etc. Also used for dyeingjellies and sweets

Seeds yields Annato anorange dye, which wasused for colouring silkand cotton. It is mainlyused for colouringfoodstuffs, such as ghee,butter, margarine,cheese,chocolate etc.

Cutch obtained fromheartwood is used inmedicine as anastringent.Katha obtainedfrom heartwood iscommonly used for chewingwith pan. Medicinally it isused as an astringent anddigestive. Externally it isused as a coolingapplication to ulcers, boilsand eruptions.

Fresh leaves: used to treatophhthalmia, deafness andinflammation.Flowers: usedin dysentery. Unripe fruits:used to cure piles, dysenteryand diarrhoea. Ripe fruits:used as tonic, laxative; goodfor heart & brain.

Leaves: used as diuretic;useful in gonorrhoea andbalanitis; leaf juice used inurticaria and given inconstipation to childrenand pregnant woman.Mucilaginous leaves arepulped and used aspoultice.

Fruits: uses as an astringentand purgative.Seeds: usedas an astringent, febrifuge,remedy for gonorrhoea.Leaves: useful in jaundice.

Sl.No.

Nameof the

Species

Vernacularname

Family Plant descriptionDye Yielding

plantspart(s)

Parts Used Medicinal Uses

1.

2.

3.

4.

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Table 1 (Cont.)

Sl.No.

Nameof the

Species

Vernacularname


plantspart(s)


Flowers: used as diuretic,depurative and astringent.Leaves: used asfebrifugeand aphrodisiac.Bark: Pounded bark usedto treat piles, tumours andmenstrual disorder.

Whole plant: Juice of theleaves, stems and rootsused to treat hysteria;decoction of the same usedas tonic to brain and to stopexcessive urinal discharge.Roots: paste with blackpepper taken in themorning to cure leucorrhoea.

Rhizomes: used ascondiment; also used asstomachic, tonic, bloodpurifier. Now a days it isused as antioxidant dyeand the yellow dye is apowerful antiseptic andrevitalizes the skin.

Leaves: Used as laxative,used to cure bronchitis,biliousness, small pox;useful in skin diseases,nervous system, livercomplaints and dyspepsia.

Leaves: Paste externallyapplied to treat wounds incattle.

Flowers yield a brilliantbut very fugitive yellowdye, which is used forcolouring the clothes likewoolen, cotton and silkand other decorativepurposes.

Flowers of blue varietyyield a blue dye, used forpainting ‘Pot chitra’; alsoused as substitute oflitmus.

Powdered the rhizome isadded to the food forcolouring yellow; alsoused in traditionally madewollen garments andpaper.

Leaves yield a light greencolour which is used forpainting in ‘Patchitra’.

Stem bark yield a darkbrown dye, used in dyeingclothes etc.

Flowers

Flowers

Rhizome

Leaves

Stem bark

Medium sized tree; stemwith irregular branching;leaves large, 3-foliolate,leaflets coriaceous,pubescent beneath;flowers in a densefascicles, recemose, orangecoloured, calyx velvetyblack, stamens diadelphous;fruits pods, long, seedsoval and velvety brown.

A perennial twiningherb; stem slender,ovate or oblong, obtuse,sub coriaceous; leavespinnately; flowers showey,solitary, axillary, lightblue, bractoles large;stamens diadelphous;pods linear, flat, sparinglyhairy.

Rhizome deep orangeyellow withiin; tubersglobose. Leafy tuft 1-1.5m tall oblong-lanceolate, attenuate atbase, acuminate-caudate at apex, entire.Ligule. Petiole 5-15 cmlong.; coma bracts whiteand green. Bracteoles to3.5 cm long. Corollawhite; labellum obovate,subentire, with a centralyow band.

Aquatic or semiaquaticherb. Branches prostrateand rooting at nodes.Leaves sessile oblong,lanceolate, subserrate,glabrous. Heads white,sessile axillary andterminal. Involucralbracts 4-5; ray floretspale, scarious; discflorets pale, almostcomplately coveringcorolla. Achens obovate-oblong. Pappus absent.

A medium sized decidu-ous tree. Undersurfaceof leaflets and inflores-cence softy tomentose.Leaves pinnately 3-foliolate, stipellate; ter-minal leaflets, entire orlobed. Flowers showy,scarlet, red in dense,sub-capitate racemesterminating branches,produced usually beforeappearance of leaves;calyx persistent, cam-panulate, 2-lipped; co-rolla unequal; oblong,narrowed into a claw,twice as long as keel;keel-petals connate;upper stamens 10,vexillary stamen free orconnate at base. Podsspindle-shaped, 4-5seeded.

Palash

Aparajita(Bluedouble)

Halud,haldi

Hinche,Helencha

Dawldhak,Piri, Madar

ButeamonospermaTaub

ClitoriaternateaLinn.

Curcumalonga Linn.

EnhydrafluctuansLour.

ErythrinasuberosaRoxb

Papilionaceae(Fabaceae)


Zingiberaceae

Compositae


5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

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Table 1 (Cont.)

Sl.No.

Nameof the

Species

Vernacularname


plantspart(s)


Root and leaf: powder inmilk is used for jaundice.Leaves are also used asastringent, leaver tonic,diuretic and also useful inwounds, ulcers, cough,bronchitis, diarrhoea,dysentery, leprosy, boils andanemia.

Leaves: Useful in fever andrheumatism; 6-7 youngleaves pounded with waterand a little ginger and thejuice is given to treatobstinate fever ofintermittent type; useful inmalarial fever.

Leaves: pounded leavesapplied as a poultice to skintroubles.

Whole plant: useful inbronchitis and cold, in thetreatment of rheumatism.Flowers: used as alterative;juice as a remedy in eyetroubles and in bleedingpiles. Flower and leaves:used as an emmenagogue;infusin is prescribed as acarminative, diuretic andvemifuge.

A brown-red dye, whichstains skin obtained frommacerated, triturated orpowdered leaves. Thedye used by ladies forstaining palms of hands,soles, nails; also used fordying hairs, beard andeye brow for personaladornment. Leaves alsoused for colouring skins,leathers, silk and wool.

Flowers tube contains anorange colluring matter‘nyctathin’, which is usedfor colouring silk; alsouseful in printing purposes.

Whole plants yield a reddye used for decorationover mats in matindustry.

Flower yield goldenyellow colour.

Leaves

Flowerstube

Wholeplant

Flowers

A glabrous shrubs;branches often endingin thorns. Leaves opposite,lanceolate or narrowrhomboid, narrow base.Inflorescence terminal,panicled cymes; flowerssweet scented, creamyor white colored; calyxlobes 4, ovate, petals4, obovate wrinkled;stamens inserted inpairs between petals;capsules red whenyoung, depressed, globose,irregular dehiscent withnumerous angular seeds.

A small sized tree;branches numerous,spreading in all direction;leaves opposite, leafblade ovate or oblong;flowers white, in axillaryand terminal peduncles,tube cylindric, orangecoloured, pleasantingfragrant, opeaning insunset; fruits capsules,flat, broad at apex, 2-valved seeds 1 per cell,compressed.

An erect herb. Leavesovate or ovate-lan-ceolate, acuminate oracute; upper graduallypassing into bracts.Cymes in copiouslybranched, divericatepanicles; bracts duskypuberulous; flowerspink; calyx deeply 5-lobed, sepals linear-lan-ceolate, hairy; corollatube slender, hairy, limbs2-lipped; stamens- 2,exserted, filamentshairy below; anther 2celled. Capsules ellip-soid-oblong, com-pressed, hairy beaked,stipitate.

An erect, simple orsparingly branched,strong-scented, annualherb; stems glabrous orpubescent, ribbed. Leaves5-20 cm long; leaflets orsegments opposite oralternate, lanceolate,oblong, acute or acuminateat apex, glabrous orpubescent near base,with few marginal glandsnear base of teeth.Heads solitary; involucrecampanulate; ray florets5-8, basal tube 6-7 mmlong; disc florets 100-200; corollas yellow,pubescent within. Achenesblackish. Pappus-scaleunited with 1 or 2longer, flattened bristles.

Lythraceae

Oleaceae

Acanthaceae

Compositae

Mehedi,Mehendi,Henna.

Seuli,Sephali

Batrang,Ranggach

Gendaphool

LawsoniainermisLinn

NyctanthesarbortristisLinn.

PeristrophetinctoriaNees.

TageteserectaLinn.

10.

11.

12.

13.

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Table 1 (Cont.)

Sl.No.

Nameof the

Species

Vernacularname


plantspart(s)


14.

15.

Leaves: useful in skindiseases, leprosy, cooling,diabetes, and bronchitis.Seeds: paste applied tocure ringworm.

Roots: combinition withother ingredients beneficialin uterine troubles.Leaves: Used as tonic, skindisease; juice boiled in oilapplied in bladless and toremove mites; juice usedto remove burning spot ofthe skin.

The ethnic peoplecrushed the leaves andobtained the red dye,which is used in themaking ‘Patchitra’; alsosuitable for dying silk &wool.

Root yield a black dye, itis used for colouring ropematerials.

Leaves

Roots

Large deciduous tree;branchlets 4-angled;leaves large, opposite,simple, obovate-elliptic,stellately yellowish; flowersnumerous in largeterminal panicles ofcymes, white, tomentose,calyx peristant, bladderlike; fruits drupes witha thick spongy covering;seeds bony.

Procumbent glabrateherb. Leaves subsessile,linear-oblong or oblanceolate,acute or obtuse; headssolitary on long slenderaxillary peduncles, yellow,outer involucre of bractslarge oblong, muchlonger than disc florets.Achenes of ray floretstriquetrous, tip truncate.

Verbenaceae

Compositae

Segun

Bhringaraj,Kesharaj,

TectonagrandisLinn.f.

WedeliachinensisMerril

2. Then filtrate it and added require amount of

mat sticks in the filtrate solution for proper

dyeing.

3. After the preparation of finish mats through

setting the dyeing sticks by threads on loom

forms and prepare single, double as well as

finer quality masland.

After conducted the finishing mats into the

village market known as hats for sale or the

product sold to its users through some middle

man like mahajan, paikars etc. At about 30,000

people are engaged in the total mat producing

unit and providing employment about 50,000

people. It includes mat sticks cultivar to marketing.

It should be calculate that the value of transaction

is vary to Rs.1,65,000-1,70,000 in a particularly

market day depending on specific advantage on

one market over the other. So, the total out-put

for annual income caries about 7-8 crores in this

district. The dye yielding plants with photographs,

recorded from the selected plants of the district

have been enumerated below along with

botanical names, vernacular name, family, plant

description, dye yielding parts, parts used and

detail about the medicinal properties (Das and

Mondal, 2009; Paria (Ed.), 2005; Chatterjee and

Pakrashi, 1991-2001; Ambasta et al., 1986)

(Table 1).

CONCLUSIONThe use of natural dyes has increased during the

last couple of years. This awareness grows to

different side of the user’s viz. designers,

traditional art dyers and printers, academic

institute and researches museum etc. We know

that synthetic dyes commonly used to dyeing of

fabric but it is earlier found associated with

environmental hazards, pollutants and having azo

groups which provide the harmful effect the skin,

lungs and respiratory system etc. At present

European and American country has been

stopped the use of synthetic dyes for export

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market. The villager of the district are practicing

vegetable dyeing since generation often

generation. They have followed the old traditional

method for extraction of natural dyes. It has been

noticed that many communities who have

engaged in this traditional method, now they

shifted to other profession. As a result their

Knowledge has not been documented for further

research and commercial interest. To promote

the use and production of natural dyes it should

be applied that more young person be trained as

dyers and encourage them to providing some

employment oriented scheme in the rural areas.

In mat crafts the traditional cultivars which they

inherit their traditional method of mat weaving

from their ancestor now they faced some problem

in traditional mat weaving because their traditional

technology is an age old and labor intensive. So,

proper collection, documentation and protection

should be needed for natural dye yielding plants.

And further research work could be carried out

based on the information available from these

people; otherwise we are bound to loose our

indigenous knowledge system for ever.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTThe authors are grateful to the local and ethnic

communities of this district for gathering

knowledge of traditional art. We also

acknowledge thankfully the suggestions given by

Dr Sanjukta Mondal (Parui), Department of

Zoology (Biochemistry), Lady Brabourne College,

Kolkata-700 017, West Bengal and Sri Tushar

Kanti Das, Forest Ranger, Silviculture (South)

Division, W.B, West Bengal, India.

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