Tehnology of Knitting With the Theoretical

Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] . Technology of knitting with the theoretical experimental and analysis Vojislav R. Gligorijevic Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] CIP - , 677.025 GLIGORIJEVI, Vojislav R., 1942- Tehnology of Knitting with the Theoretical Experimental and Analysis : #a #comprehensive handbook and practical guide / Vojislav R. Gligorijevic. - 1st ed. in English. - Leskovac : V. Gligorijevi, 2011 (Beograd : Nova kola). - 539 str. : ilustr. ; 30 cm Tira 200. - The Author: str. 6. - Bibliografija: str. 534-538. ISBN 978-86-914211-3-7 a) - COBISS.SR-ID 185446412 Leskovac, 2011/ Serbia Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Publisher : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, Leskovac Editor : Vladimir V. Gligorijevic Reviewer : prof.dr. Kostadinka Ljapcheva, Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, Skopje Word processing : Prof.dr Vojislav R. Gligorijevic Cover Design : Prof.dr Vojislav R. Gligorijevic Circulation : 200 Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Technology of knitting with the theoretical experimental and analysis Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Technology of knitting with the theoretical experimental and analysis A comprehensive handbook and practical guide First edition in English Vojislav R. Gligorijevic Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] To my wife Zdenka Elizabeta Gligorijevic with children and grandchildren Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] The Author Vojislav R. Gligorijevic,professor, wasbornon10 January1942. in Pecenjevce,where he finishedelementary school. Textileschool inLeskovac, as thefirstgenerationof knitwears, completed in1961. Andthereafter, theHigher Technical School of textile mechanical direction inLeskovac. Since1967. to1981. heworked asateacher of knitting in the textile center of the school in Leskovac. With work, studying at the Faculty ofTechnology andMetallurgy inSkopje, the textile department,where thefield of knittingand graduatedfrom the1973rd Inthefallof the1981st wasadmittedto the FacultyofTechnology inLeskovac tothecase ofknitting technology, as ateaching assistant. Shortly thereafter the Department of Textile Technology, Textile Engineering in Ljubljana enrolled postgraduate master's degree in the 1986th on Influence processes dynamic characteristics in the braking mechanisms horizontal stripes twists . After several published articles, his Ph.D. from the University of Ljubljana, in 1990 on"Influence ofdynamicsand friction compensation inthe thread and knitting zone onthe structure twists", and named Doctor textile technological sciences. Toconfirmtheassumption,V. Gligorijevithreesensorsconstructedandinstalledin productionmachines. Withsensorsandotherequipmentisdeterminedbasedonthe analysisofdependencebetweentheforcesandcompensationintheknittingzoneat different stages of creating loops and loops. Installationofsensorsisaninnovationintheresearchstage. Withadynamicviewis obtainedbycomparingtheexperimentalprocessofdifferentialequationsobtainedin studies of this type of innovation.The research not only theoretical value but also useful as sensors can be adapted to any type of warp committed.As an author he wrote a number of scripts and books on knitting, a number of scientific papersinnational andinternationaljournals,whicharelisted inthe SCI. All research papers relate to knitting, and his preoccupation with the scientific interest is related to the studyof dynamicsof the processof knitting yarn. Theworksweresystematicallyand scientificallyhandled, soastopresent anintroductiontothe furtherdevelopment of problems in this area. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Preface Scientific-technicalrevolution,whichisimplementedinallareasofscienceand technology,increasingtheroleoftechnologyintheproductionprocessknitwear production. Continuousimprovementofmethodsandprogressivedevelopmentofknitting techniquestoproduceknitwear(twists)haveledtohighlevelsoftechnological development,whichalsoshowsinproduction,whichsignificantlyexceededthe productivity of other modern technologies.Theaimofthistextbookistobecombinedinonevolumethebasicprinciplesand principlesofknittinginthetransverseandlongitudinaldirection(fromthebasicsof knitting) as an important sector in textile technology. Inclusion of historical development and different types of machines, their principles and mechanisms, as well as making the yarn products, make this textbook as acceptable, particularly suitable for professionals in this field who wish to expand their knowledge and understanding of knitting. The textbook "Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis" is basedonthelatestachievementsofscienceandpracticeinthescientific, methodological and pedagogical terms in the field of knitwear production in order to get a newer and more efficient ways to create loops and the criteria for further development ofexistingtechniquesofknitwearinthefuturewiththeuseofmicroprocessor control and the development of knitting in the scientific sense. Intheintroductorypartofthebookaregivengeneralinformationaboutthe characteristics of the knitting structure of knitted fabrics and their determination. By type ofweavestructuresaregiveninterlacement,graphicsandtechnicaldesigncartridges right-left,left-right,left-rightcross-left-interlockandinterlacementwovenintotheleft transverse and longitudinal direction. Especially designed as an irregular interlacement Jacquard as tri-color and the colors and types of raw imagery to knitwear color patterns. Theanalysisoftheprocessofcreatingaloopwiththeprinciplesofknittingtoallthe knitting machines and special operations half loop the application of needles and hooks newly created position of loops and the change in length half loop yarn in the loop. They discussed the basic principles of connecting units (loops) in the knitting for knitting, weft straight,circularknittingweftandonthewaytotheanalysisanddesignactivities,and anymoveintheirmovementin theprocessof knittingthroughtheEulerandLagrange coordinates of the arc with the elements of the theory of surfaces. Inotherchapters,or modules,providesananalysisanddesignactivitiesortheyarn and knitting process, special emphasis was paid to the amplitude of oscillation exceeds thecountertradeknitzoneandintheprocessofknittingwiththefrequencyof oscillations in the function of yarn tension and determination of the suspended period of onecycleat wrapknittingconnectionwiththemutualforcesactinginthelooptensile knitwear and withdrawal. Considered the empirical formula for moving different types of needles in the process oftakingthecross, themovementof theworkingof flat,circular knittingmachinesand on. Specialchapter,differentwaysofcreatingdepthweftisofparticularimportancefor weftbasicyarnandstuffedintheprocessofweftinterlacement,knitonfooter interlacement, making curtains and lace and knitted interlacement Jacquard basis. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Particularattentionisgiven,wherepossiblestress,therulesandbasicprinciples, whicharelesslikelytochangedrasticallyinthelaterdevelopmentoftechnologies. Thetextbookcanalsoserveasahandyreferenceforstudioworkandbusiness purposes. ThisfirsteditioninEnglishinSerbiaandformerYugoslavia,includingthe developmentofelectroniccontrolandselectionofneedlesandothermechanismsof cross-wovenandknittedknitwearintheknittingbasics. Basicsoftwareprogrammingis coveredwithspecialreferencedesignandfullyintegratedknittinggarments. I am especially pleased that this textbook used in education, industry and commerce worldwide. Leskovac, 2011. Vojislav R. Gligorijevic Serbia Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] 1. Introduction to the history of knitting 1.1 Evolution of textiles Manisthefirstself-madeclothingfromanimalskinswhichheknewtosiftthroughthe needleofanimalbones. Soontheybegantothinkof fibrousmaterialformakingtextile knitwear, encouraged by the experience acquired by interweaving branches, leaves, and grassesinthedevelopmentofprimitiveshelters. Theword"Textiles"comesfromthe Latinverbtexere(sockets)-fortheweb,buttodayitisageneraltermappliedtoany production of fiber, yarn and any appropriate fineness, I.e the length and thickness. 2. Start of hand knitting needles 2.1. Hand-knitting Theterm"knitting"describesatechniqueoftextilestructuresinthetransverseand verticaldirections,madeupofelementaryunits-loop,wovenfromyarnsofaspecific length. Theterm"knitting"datesfromthemid-sixteenthcentury. Handknittingatfirst been derived by using the fingers and practiced it for a long time before using the hand-pin. Hand knitting was first recorded in religious paintings in 1350 in northern Italy, then spread to the rest ofEurope.Figure2.1showsthatMaryknittedclothesforChristthatdatesback1400years ago. Thisis the earliest recorded illustration of woven garments. Unfortunately,Christwaswearingadressthatwasprobablythefirsttimeknitting techniquewoven braids. ThetechniqueofknittingcapsestablishedinBritainin1424. In1488parliament passed a decision on price controls knitted hats. Fine Ladieswore silk stockings from the Queen Elizabeth around the year 1561 and wassoimpressedbytheirelasticity,thatIneverworecoarsewoolsocks. In1564in Italy, the first knitted socks from worsted wool yarn. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Image2.1. Mary Christ knit seamless ornament Plaster Master paintings from the altar Bertram (1345-1415) in the Church of Buxtehude. Museum in Hamburg.

half loop loop Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected]

A short history of knittingClosed loop knitting Closedloop knitting Closed loop knitting Figure2.2. Hand-knitting with two and a needle Thehistoryofthetextileindustryextendsbackatleastasfaras7000BCwhenthe weavingofplantfibrewasdevelopedinTurkey.7000yearslater,atthestartofthe Romanperiod,anextensivetradeintextileswasestablishedthroughouttheknown worldwithsilkyarnsandwovenknitwearsbeingshippedfromChinawestwardalong thesilkroadtoPersia,themiddleeastandthentoRomeandthewest.Cottonyarns and woven fabrics were shipped from India, across the Red Sea to Egypt and thence to Europe. Incontrasttoweaving,knittingisarelativelymoderndevelopment.Theneedfor garmentswithgoodstretchpropertiestofitthefeet,handsandheadhadledtothe developmentby1000BCofknottingandloopingtechniquesforknitwearandgarment manufacturewhichfallintothecategoryofsprangornaalbinding.Thesemethods produced good quality durable items but were slow and difficult to carry out. Coarsewoolensocks,wovenbyhand,werewornuntil1600,buttheyweresofine, and there was always striving to produce fine socks finer yarns. 2.2. Principles of hand knitting with two and a needle Figure2.2presentstheprincipleofhandknittingwithtwoneedlesandtwowooden sticksthatwereroundedtipatoneend. Loopsoccursoncecompletelyseparates from the needle until the needle in contact with it is half loop. Many half loop called "old loop" which is a misnomer, or rather inappropriate. With a needle A reserve has been created Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] half loops, and with a needle B, create a new half loop 2, which are threaded through the first half loop. Thefollowingknittingmodulesprogressfromthebasicconceptsnecessaryto understand the essential features of knitting machines and knitted structures through to theadvancedknittingprinciplesrequiredtounderstandandinfluencethedesignand development of sophisticated engineered technical products. WilliamLee,figure2.3(ca.1563-1614)wasanEnglishinventorwhodevisedthefirst stocking frame knitting machine in 1589, the only one in use for centuries. Its principle of operation remains in use. Lee was born in the village of Calverton, Nottinghamshire. He enteredChrist'sCollege,Cambridgein1579asasizarandgraduatedfromSt. St. John's Collegein the 1582 years. 2.3. Knitting mechanic In1589EnglishtheologianWilliamLeecameupwiththeideatoconstructthefirst mechanicalmachineforknittingsocks. Theideahadcomebylookingathiswife, accordingtosomerecords,thegirlofhisbetrothed,toknitsocksveryslowlyand thereforedoesnotpayenoughattentiontohim. Firstcametheideatoconstructa knitting needle with a hook, or as we now know as "needle peak" or "long needle hooks. Figure 2.3. William Lee Needle itself is imagined as a divine creature, and isthereforegiventhenamesofitsparts,"head pins","back","foot","bodypins. Inadditionto needlesconstructedisanimportantbodyofwork "platinum", it is actually a steel plate which allowed theexecutionofcertainoperationsintheknitting process. Andplatinumhasgiventhenamesof "chest","breast,"neck"nose". Inordertofully perform the operations of knitting, has constructed a rail with a smooth rounded edge on one end, by which was carrying out an operation "pressing" or compactionpeaks-peaksinahollowneedleto needle,whichwaslatercalledinliteratureasa groove pins or bowl, spoon, because it lookedlikeadentonthelowerworkofasmallspoon. Forhisinvention,insomeversions,itwas acknowledged,butbythattimethechurchwasa fierceattack,thathisinventionwastheninsultedtheChurch,andaboveallGod,and that's why he was banished from England. However,oneversionsaysthathisinventionwouldnotpatentedattheQueen Elizabeth,whichhasnotacceptedhisinvention,becauseitwouldmuchaffectmany factories for hand-knitting, which employed large numbers of people. Butthroughitallwehavetosaythathismachineisusedforalmost200years. Itwas one mechanical assembly that is moved by the arms and legs. The concept of her work Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] wassobrilliantthat,throughtheevolutionaryprocessoftechnicaladjustments,many inventorsaroundtheworldinthecomingcenturies,managedtoconstructindustrial knitting machines. Unfortunately, there is no documentary information on Lee life. Lee original machine was knitting coarse wool socks to eight needles per English Col (25.4 mm), later to be able to knit socks and finer than silk, I installed the 16 needles at oncetranslatedCol,althoughitisreportedtoincorporate 20needles,andthatafter 1620 years. HavingnotreceivedapatentfromQueenElizabeth,Leegoeswithhisbrotherin Paris,attheinvitationofHenryIV,andin1609Leeopenedaworkshopforknitting socksinRouenandsignedapartnershipagreementwithPierreinthe1611th. However,astheHenriIVkilled1610,Lihadnoprotectionandsupportandhadhis brother to the machines and workers returned to England, and that William Lee died in poverty in Paris, hiding from persecution. . 2.3.1. The principle of the machine Lee Theprinciple of the knitting machine Lee has remained to this day the same, and if you wereknittingmachinesperfectedforcenturies,eventoday. Withhismachineinthe beginning could be paid 500 to 600 loops per minute, and later was able to seamlessly weaves of silk knitwear from 1000 to 1500 loops per minute. On the knitting machine and toes to run basic business bodies machinery: the needle, platinum and presses. Figure2.4showsLeemachinewithaviewoftheknittingknitwearandlooks right. Beforecreatingafirst-orderloop,itwasnecessarytomanuallywrapthetopsof peaks move to the front needles on the body of needles. After that we re taking a cross in front of the tops of peaks of needles, yarn now Compressingthe needle with the help of platinum (sinker), thus creating a needle between the strands of a certain depth. This processiscalled"ofcooling".Withplatinumlocksofcoolingintakebelowthetopsof peaksofneedlesintheheadpins. WiththehelpofpressCompressingpeaks-peaks needlesintheneedlehole,called"boss",andthenwithplatinumcurlscreatedwitha body shift overhead needles -needles and put on the same of coolinglocks. In this way wecreatedthebeginningofknitting.Proceduregoesonbyofcoolingcurls,nowhalf loops,togetherwithaloopshifttheneedlebody,repeattheprocedureoftakingthe cross,andtheintroductionofcoolinglocksintheheadpins. Furtherprocedureas follows and at the very be ginning. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 2.4. Lee machine elements for knitting yarn and looks right. Figure 2.5. The appearance of the original left and machine knitting garments made of silk right Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure2.5showsLeemachineperfectedandfinersilkknittingsocksandother garments. Figure 2.6 (a-c) is shown with photographs of the process of knitting the Lee machine. Halfloop(a)isinthebodyoftheneedle keptneckplate(b),itisthelockofwhichwe createdinthebeginningofthewrappingyarnneedle. Wedonewinstallationyarn(c) before the needle peaks -peaks (d). Figure 2.6-b shows the moment when the platinum perform compaction yarn between needles, or create of coolinglocks with the help of the nose plate (s), then follows the forwardmovementofthepeaksofplatinumpeaksandneedlesthroughthechestof coolingplatinumlocks(f)enterbelowthetopsofpeaks needlesinthehead pins. Platinum is going back (arrow) and also lifted upward (arrow). Figure2.6-cshowsthemomentwhenhischestplatinum(h)supportsbringinghalf loops(a)thetopsofpeaksinfrontoftheneedles,whichimmediatelypresses(g) compressingthepeaksofpeaksinthehollowneedleonapin-pointpatella.Same platinum moving upwards (arrow ). Platinum and further promote the transfer of his chest over his head half loop needles once the press is pulled back, platinum (sinker) is also at the same time pulling down (arrow). Now the process is the principle of knitting repeats. This who invented William Lee, and that he still is today. I his if this epochal discovery, initially did not receive any recognition, and Queen Elizabeth refused his patent, alleged that the machine could only rough to knit wool socks. You re seeking a patent for a much finermachinewith20needlesinoneEnglish-Col,withwhichhewasabletofine-knit women'sstockingsofsilk,buttheQueenandrefusedtoacceptapatentforareason that would jeopardize the work of the former industry of hand-knitting socks. a) Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] b)c)Figure 2.6. Lee principle knitting Figure 2.7. shows thedeformed woven fabric of themonth (Photo creditNASA) Phototaken duringthe Apollo 12th Shows thedeformed wovenantenna that was sending television pictures back to Earth. The antenna is knited from gold metallic yarns (Time, July 7, 1969, 34-7). Unique structureof the loop knitting provides an opportunity: use the minimum number of yarn; easy connection switch from one loop to another under a certain tension; transfer loops from one needle to another; knitting fabric one side with one party as a person and another as are verse double-knit face and reverse; increase or decrease the number of loops in the width and depth; knitting with different species composition to the yarn in knitting. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure2.7. Apollo 12 landing on the ground after the appearance of deformed knitted dish of gold plated wire yarn The unique properties of knitted structures provide the ability to produce knitted items as textiles, while retaining a traditional market for making sweaters, socks, tricot knitwear ,underwear, lace and more 3. Historical background and criteria for further development of knitting techniques, and technology History of knitting is compared with existing long history of weaving, much younger, from whichitcanmakeaconclusionthatthetransitiontothehand-madetextileknitwears fromyarnsinterlacedwiththeloopstothenextlevelofdevelopmentoftechnical creativityofman,whatisneededelementalconnectionwiththeright angleofthetwo systems of yarnin the fabric. In table 3.1 show that the basic findings in the field of methods and basic technical principlesofmachine-madeknitwearhavebeendiscoveredoverthepast400years.Continuousimprovementofmethodsandprogressivedevelopmentofmanufacturing techniques for making twists have led to high levels of technological development, which also shows in the manufacture, which significantly exceeded the modern productivity in Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] weaving.The fact that with time the invention of cooling the basis knitted knitting and methods formakingclothdidnotmakeanynewwaysofmakingloops,andallscientificand technicaldevelopmentofknittingtechnologyisbasedontheconstantimprovementof these methods, allows to ask the following questions: Can occur in the future a new, more efficient way to create a loop? What are the important criteria for further development of existingknitwear techniques ? Scientificanswertothefirstquestioncanbegivenbasedonlogicalandanalytical thinking.Analysisofallknownmethodsformakingclothshowsthatinanyeventmustmeet two basic conditions (logical conditions): The existence of at least one, the system of yarn; Theexistence of a technical element to create the loop (authorities to create loop-pin). Thesystemof yarn - andcannot be so cross, and longitudinal (a logicalvariable).Organsystems to createa loop running motionisrelativehalfloops hanging on them, where during one cycle ofcreating loopsprovide two extremepositions (end position).This relative motion maybemade or all authorities tocreatea loop atthesame time or each bodyseparately (second logical variable). Further,each body tocreate the loop (needle) along with the corresponding subsidiary organs (e.g. platinum), is required to intercept the appropriate formof yarn loops. Creating curvedparts atthesame time can only happen to the merger with half loop (third logical variable). Table 3.1 Time, placeEvents or discoveries 6.c., EgyptHand Knitting / discovery during excavation. 13.c.,Spain, Italy straighthandknitting on two needles are used as a ploy. 16.c.,Switzerland Hand knittingfor five needle/ knitting in the round. 1560.y.,Europe On the market first suture less socks. Appears in new trades for men. England,France,Germany Are created facilities for knitting socks. 1589.y.,England William Lee finds of cooling hand loomandpointed needle. Original name: STOCKING Knitting loom or frame. This has made a step towards mechanizationof making socks. 1758.y.,England J.Strut creates an additional device for makingof weft twists with two persons on a flat machine. 1768.y., Mr,II- nd half Crane finds Manual Elementary Knitting loom. Set up the main shaft of cooling bars, crossing the ofweftmachine. 1791.y.,Dawson creates a device for turning guide (pitting needle). This led Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Englandto a mechanical Elementary knitting looms. 1798.y.,France De-Croixrevealsfirst patents on the crown of weftloom. 1805.y.,Germany Carl Christian Langsdorf, a professor of mathematics and Johann Michael Wassermann (University of In contrast to weaving, knitting is a relatively modern development. The need for garments with good stretch properties to fit the feet, hands and head had led to the development by 1000BC of knotting and looping techniques for knitwear and garment manufacture which fall into the category of sprang or naal binding. These methods produced good quality durable items but were slow and difficult to carry out. Erlangen) issued the first complete description of the hosiery-knitting looms and technological process of making socks. 1853.y.,France Patent Creation circular looms (circular of coolingmachine knitting right-right). 1856.y., England Townsend finds a latch needle. 1859.,y, Germany Use of the latch needle and vertical arrangement in Kettenstuhl Bezeichnung: Raschel machine 1860-1864.y., England W. Cotton gets a patent on a mechanical loom weft straight with vertically distributed bearing needle, low-mounted main shaft and transmission mechanisms. This type of structure brings the highest industrial importance. 1857-1870.y., Europe, S. America Various findings on the knitting machines, parts with a pointed needle. In1863.y., U.S. W. Lamb finds a fundamental principle of the mechanical latch knitting needles using portable eccentrics. Schedule bearingneedlein the form of the roof. 1865.y., England Clay finds two-headed latch pin, a prerequisite for making left and left twists. 1866.y., U.S. Patent issuing on the Mac Nary circular knittingmachines with the inclusion of ways of making the top five (in distributingwalk). 1878.y., England Griswold introduced a needle plate (Flattened) as the second bearing needlecircular knitting machines. 1881.y., Germany Durand finds first-tubular warp around the needle.1886; Germany Beyer finds a way automatic addition and subtraction using transmission half loops in the flat knitting machine. 1900.y., Germany H. Stoll elaborates on the basic technical conditions for production of flat knitting machines for knitting left-left. 1910.y., England Spiers, Erfinder finds left-left circular knitting machines for knitting with two faces. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] 1949.y., West Germany H. Mauersberger patented Knitting way "Malimo" that occurs starting point for creating knitting sewing techniques and thus the very principle of interference weft yarn all over the working width elementary knitting machines. Table 3.2 VariantV4 Variablescontent 1. logical variable System of transverse yarns p 2. logical variable At the same time moving body relative to the knitting half loops q 3. logical variable Creating bent parts during the merger with half loops r (making a new record interlaced) If you have a system of transverse movement of knitting yarn written authority relatively half loops happening at the same time q, then the creation of bent parts may arise during the merger, it seems the rule is complex opposite position, (pq) r (rq) r (pq) r(3.1) Itisknownthatthelawofcoolingoffatthesametimecreatingacurvedpartsofthe wholeworkingwidth,givenasystemoftransverseyarns,ie.yarn,itcanleadtothe knitting system on one side and the theoretical values of the variables, the V4 variant at eachsitetocreateloopsmustbesimultaneouslyovertheentireworkingwidthwith equal quantities.Accordingly,theruleofformallogicfrom(p ) q r(V1)cancometothe conclusionthattheseconclusions(p ) q pi(p ) q q.areequally characterizedbyacombinationofV8andV3variantsthatcanalsoberegardedas technicallyattainable.Consistentwiththis,aftertheformallogicaltesting,technical variantV4waste. Inasamplegraphicisclearlyshowninthelegalityofthecomplex oppositeposition:impossiblevariantsV4bypartsalsoleadstopossiblevariantsV1, Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] V3, V8 and only to them..The final rule is (p ) q r the same, it does not work, also yarn during the creation of curved parts is not added. The need for yarn in this case arises from the properties of materials. Thisispossiblewhenprocessingductilitysyntheticfibers. Duetotechnical problemsassociatedwiththisvariant(uniformity,colorationdifferences,etc.).Its manufacturingapplicationisrequiredandobviouslyislimited(e.g.themanufactureof fine hosiery). Further calculation of these options is not recommended. For the V6 variant is characterized by the following: Variant V6Content variables 1.logical variablesystem of transverse yarns 2.logical variableContinuousknitting body movement relative half loops 3.logical variableCreatingbent parts of the union with half loops Ifyouhaveasystemoflongitudinalyarns(p),thenfromatechnologicalstandpoint thereisnodoubtinrelationtothevaluesoftwoothervariables. Inprincipleitisa possibility of sequential (q) or simultaneous (q) the movement of needles, or bent half loopsandcreatingpartstoorduringthemerger(r)ie. eachpincorrespondstoyour yarn. In this way, as the basis Knitting way to create a loop expression is true; p(q q)(r r) )= p(3.2) In this way, the question of technical feasibility variant V6 and V7 in principle have been resolved. Furtherlogicalanalysisleadstotheconclusionthattheexpressionpqrcanbe determinedusingthemosteffective,withthetechnicalandeconomicpointofview,a variant of Elementary knitting ways, i.e. Simultaneity relative motion and overlap with the time of creating curved parts and connections, marking the highest level of utilization of timetheprocessofcreatingabasiclooptoachieveoperatingspeeds. Then,the technicalrealizationofvariantV6andV7alwaysbeaccompaniedbylow performance. Because of this scientific research ways to create loopvariants that were found by theory show is also superfluous.We should point out that at the time of the inventionweft, knitting and basic knitting ways to create loops were issued patents for "the discovery of variants to create loops, formed at a given theoretical analysis.Fromaneconomicpointofviewthedevelopmentofknitweartechniques,ontheone handarealwaysdeterminedpurelytechnicalandtechnologicalcapabilitiesincrease productivityknittingmachines,andontheotherhand,greatimportancehasstimulated the ability of product design, keeping in mind the properties of chemical fibers, including the possibility of sampling.Whenfurtherincreasingtheproductivityofknittingmachinesistakenintoaccountthe number of basic criteria. In flat of cooling machine purely 2 / 3 of time belongs to the process of creating a loop, and the technological requirements go only one taking the yarn and making curved parts (weft). For a walk on cam of cooling working width creates only one line of bent parts of Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] the yarn (analogous to the ranks of the loop). The principle is interrupted. Nomatter,workonaflatofcoolingmachineisrational(forsomeproductsthemost rational)incomparisonwithothermethodsoftechnologyaswellasthetreatmentof expensive fiber, this is taken into account as materialized labor (raw materials economy). Theprincipleofflatknittingmachineisalsointerrupted. Uneconomicbythesize, symmetrical structures knitting lock system, and so | is also small in comparison with the widthbearing needle,thenumberofsystems(whichwillreducedowntimecrankshaft) remains an essential objective limits productivity. If the interrupter does not oversee the systemofmovement,itcansignificantlyhinderproductivityflatknittingmachines. Flat knitting machines with overhead camshaft (heads) that move along the oval orbit at the presenttimeintermsofwithdrawalofthetwotwistsareequippedwith14or15a systemicworkers. Movementofthecrankshaftcontinuouslyinonedirectionalongthe ellipse. In this way themachines per unit time creates 3-4 times the number of rows of loopsratherthanstraightknittingmachineswiththreeortwoknittingsystems. Theirproductivityislowerthantheproductivityofcircularknittingmachinesforknitting flat. Onlycircularknittingmachineswithlargerdiameterpieceofknitwearproductsin unittime(comparedwithasimpleweavenetting)arealmostdoubleorthreetimesthe amount of twists. Boundariestoincreaseproductivitycircularknittingmachinessmallerandlarger diameters can be accurately determined. As the main problem occurs breaking the head ofneedles,highspeedturns,andalsobreaktheyarnprimarilyduetoitslackof uniformity. Fracturesoftheheadofneedlesthatareinthefinalstateassociatedwiththe individualinitiatingneedles,causedbytheshockloadingofneedlesbecauseofa greaterinclinationangleandrotationfrequency(frequencies),leadingtoincreased impact loads. However, on the other hand, it appears the starting point for increasing the productivity of knitting machines.With increasing tilt angle lock, is possible to increase the number of knitting systems that are deployed in volume machines. At the same quality fabric you can control really weakeningenergylossesandcapitalinvestmentforaKnittingsystem,aswellas increasing feedback from the sample. Increasing productivity is a disproportionate increase in the number of end systems. For this reason, manufacturers of knitting machines effort is directed to substantially increase thespeedofrotation. Thedegreeofdepreciationisreducedsimultaneouslywith increasingproductivity. Inthisway,thetargetofresearchsystemsneedle-knitting bearing needle-lock,isaimedatincreasingthenumberofknittingsystemsandthe speedofrotation,i.e.therecanbenorealsolutionsthatallowderogationsfromthe principle of mechanical initiation tongue-flower needles.

IncreaseproductivityElementaryknittingmachinesprimarilyassociatedwith minimizedoperatingparts,organstocreatealoopandtheapplicationofcurvilinear mechanismsforimplementationofschemesofworkaregiventechnology. Itis necessarytousescientificmethodstosolvetheproblemofdynamicmachines. Is achieved by taking into account the technical, technological conditions, operating speeds Elementaryknittingmachines,butnowstandsoutasamajorissueloudnoisethat occurs in part the difficulty in the practical application of these operating speeds. So it's veryimportantwayofincreasingproductivityElementaryknittingmachines,butit increases the width of your knitting. Working speed is slightly lowered at the same time.

Withincreasingoperatingspeedsofspecialimportanceisgiventobringingtheyarn withaminimumloadofyarn,forallgroupsofmachines.Formakingknitwear Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] characterizedbytheapplicationofthecontrolandregulationtechniquesinvarious systems add yarn, sampling and giving form.

Comparisonofe-governance,samplingmachinesandgroupsofmachinesfor processingsamplesinthepreparatorydepartmenttomakingconstantmemorydevice withwhichinformationcanbekeptinthemachine,thereisstillafirst-importance. For thisexampleshowsthatthequestionontheapplicationoftechnicalmeansshouldbe solvednotonlyfromthestandpointoftheverymoderntechnicalcapabilities,butalso from the standpoint of technical and economic benefits and necessity. Thankstothesimplestructureofknittinggettingbasicproperties,suchasgood adhesion, elasticity and porosity. Inconnectionwiththeexpansionofproductionofchemicalfiber,initiatedthework focused on creating new products. Thanks to him, came the possibility of inserting twists in almost all fields, which were used fabrics. Bytradition,theareaofapplicationofknitwearproduction(hosiery,topknitwear, underwear)remainsasbefore. Itsrangeisextendedforashorttimeduetothe introductiontextured polyamideandpolyesteryarn,andalsospinnedyarnsfromany purechemicalfiberorwithitshint(especiallypolyvinylidene,polyacrylicandpolyester fiber). Suchqualitiessuchasconvenienceofwearing,theeaseofcultivating,shape stability, which is in the clothes of any such exhibits as a great suit with the performance characteristics of fabrics, appear as the main cause of population increase in demand for contemporaryAreaeverydaytextileknitwearElementaryknittingproduction(includingproduction Rachelmachine)isnowalmostcompletelyeclipsedotherwaysofmaking(curtains, gardini, lace and so on). Advantage in connection with the introduction of stable chemical or by color and high productivityElementaryknittingproductionplayedadecisiveroleinbreakingthe knitwearintheareasformertraditionalweaving. Intheincreasinglyclothmadeof circular knitting machines replaced woven materials for coating furniture, walls, and also forheavyblankets. Theiradvantage,notonlyincomparisonwithfabrics,butalsoin comparison with the base knitting knitwear, partly reflected in the resilience and partly in the sample means.Dailyproductionoftextilesingeneral,canbeconsideredasanareathatisrapidly developingasafutureareaofapplicationofknitwear. Fromthepointofviewof prospectiveapplicationsrunningintheworld,moreworkrelatedtodeterminingthe possibility of using knitted fabrics for technical purposes. This area should be considered as an area with the greatest prospects.Theworldwidetrendisseenthedivisionoracompletereplacementfortheupper fabricclothing(ensembles,jackets,shirts,ladiesblouses,skirts,etc..)Knitwear. No doubtthisisascientific-technologicalprogressinagivenarea,aswitnessedbyafew examples: -Improving the fineness of machines in the group circular knitting machine large diameter and the basics of knitting machines; -Obtaininglargequantitiesofchemicalor,inparticularpolymer,withsomephysical-chemical properties and also the processing of yarn and yarn combination; -Creating a large number of special knitted knit, and the laying in order to obtain a stable form of twists and with a coefficient of fullness, Creating a specific processing technology and machineprocessing plants. In addition to women's and children's upper garment, as well as decorative (formal) and different production clothing made from knitwear takes up a large part. The advantage of knitwearandnowstimulatesthedevelopmentofconsumptionanddemand. The Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] tendencyofdevelopmentoftheincreaseinproductplacementknitwearlight(shirts, blouses, etc.).For their production are used circular machine machines large diameter of theright-left,knitting,machineinterlockcircular machinelargediameter(E.g,fineness 32....50E),aswellascircularknittingmachinesoflargediameterfortheright-right knitting. Thelengthofprocessedyarnforknittingacertainlengthandwidthissignificantly higher than those for fabrics of the same length and width. Given parameters to create the loop determine the exact length of yarn in the loop, the same spatial arrangement of partsobtainedheightandwidthisveryvariableduetotheeffectsofdifferentforces.Therefore, there is increased extensibility twists, which can be reduced by changing the length of the loop for a given length or the relative spread of knitwear knit or interference inthelongitudinalortransverse(orbothofthelatter)additionalyarn,whichdoesnot participateinthecreationofloops,andtheactionoftheforce taketheloadinthefirst place. These studies in conjunction with the development of knitwear which compete for their properties to knitwear resulting from these two ways of designing knitted knit. In the design of a very important share of such qualities as a closed surface (a characteristic of knit wears), resistance to stretching and a typical knitwear - engraving and draping. Highproductivityinmakingknitwearhasbeenandremainsthebasiccriterionof similardevelopment. Itappearsasalogicalbasisforthelackofanyfocusedresearch development after making fabric from knitwear like "characteristics with the exception of makingsomeproductsthatusetexturedortoobtaintheeffectsofelastic knitwear. Turningtobothbasicresearchcapabilitiesinthedirectionofweaveknitwear designcanmakeaconclusionthatthepropertiesofknittedknitwearsapproximate characteristics,andthebettersucceedininsertingintothelongitudinalandtransverse Mesh textile yarns, when it is according to figures approaching the knitwear are not only indicators of strain, but also the surface structure, engraved and rough, draped. Options forthismodeofproductiontwistsareusuallylessthanElementaryknittingways. In knitting of production method on circular machines of large diameter can be:

Reducethelengthoftheprocessedyarntotherelativewidthofthe knitweardueto the high fineness machines and combined elements interlaced - loops and traps, with a minimum length of yarn in comparison to the yarns in the knitwear is not achieved and, Knitinthedirectionofrowsandrowsloopsadditionalyarnasweftorbase. Thanks to the application or synthetic (E.g polyester) and their use, certain features may affect the physical and mechanical properties and the structure of the fabric and if they are in this case, the optimal parameters. Particularly wide and ending in the processing of knitted fabrics made of special yarns. In this case, can be obtained for example. Mesh in the form of cloth that can be done only by using transverse and longitudinal weft.Modifiedforallkindsoftwiststhatdonothavespecifiedageneralruleapplies- consideredbynetting. Itsuseforproductsthatareprimarilymadeonlyfromthe knitwear, does not lead to the obtaining of similar products, appear, in newer and newer products that take their place along with the cloth.

Thewidepossibilityofproducingknittedknitwearslikecanberealizedusingthe Elementaryknittingwaysofknitting. Inwarpknittingispossibleadditionalprocessing warp yarns that are pre-focused - we place them just as the knitwear. Junction with yarn passingundertheneedleandyarntocombine(link)weft,itispossibletogetaMesh thathassimilaritieswiththeexternalknitwearandphysical-mechanicalproperties,and also in comparison with the indicators of fabric, and draperyengraving. Equally all this much speed decreases Elementary knitting machines. In addition, the Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] characteristics of the structure caused by the increased expense of materials to achieve thecharacteristicsofcomplianceandfullnessastheknitwear. Alsoitshouldbenoted that in producing large quantities of metric material, the basis knitting machines from an economicpointofviewhavegreateropportunitiesthancircularknittingmachinesof large diameter and weaving looms, this is explained by simpler methods of sampling and theuseofrelativelysimpletechnicalmeanstomakethewarpexceedstheproduction knitwear of everyday production of elegant ladies, men and children clothing. In general it should be noted that the design and finishing knitwear are hiding inside the many opportunities that lead to the further dissemination of twists in allareas of use of textiles. Thereisaperceptionthatallmeasuresaimedatmakingclothlike fabricleadtothe development of promising new range of clothing in addition to the assortment of apparel fabrics. The question about this or any other part of the assortment in the general range ofexternalconditionssolvedwithtrainingmode. Itispossible,too,assumedthatthe knitwearproductionmethodandmannerofweavingandfurtherdevelopandpositively affect each other. Figure 3.1 showsthe formal-logical ways of knitting views

Figure 3.1. Formal-logical ways of knitting views Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] 4. Basic information about the knitting KnItwearthetextileproductcomposedof loopsintertwinedwitheachotherina certainorder.KnItwearmadeweftandknittingmethod differsfromthegeometricknitwear interlaced yarn. Thelongertheyarnknitwear4.1(base)isintertwined cross2(weft)at rightangles(Figure4.1,a). Theknitwearisobtainedbyalternatingpullingyarn weft yarns with base divided into two equal or unequal parts by the number depending on the type weave. Knitwearischaracterizedbyclosed area,aswellasadequatemechanical propertiesand extensibility,whichcorrespondtocharacteristicsprocessed yarn.Figure 4.1,bshowsthedistributionofneighboring warporweftyarninthelongitudinal fullness ofknitwear,whichcanbelessthan,equaltoorgreaterthan 100%. Figure4.2 showsthepatternofactionandforcewarp weftyarncottonfabricunderload,andb-towardsthebase,c-inweftdirection. Whencalculatingthebreakingloadoffabricsis based geometricpatternslinkingstructure(Figure4.2) takingintoaccounttheuneven tension wires near strain fabric. Knitwear obtainedbycreatingaloopfrom yarnintointertwinedloops(Figure 4.3). Itisfor makingknittingrequiresonlyonesystemofyarn(a) whichinterferewith cross-loop (b)orsystem longitudinalyarns(candd). Different transformation basic knitcome to constructive variants, which provide ample opportunities for qualitative modificative modifications, and reveal a greater area of application.Meshforunlikeknitwear. hasanopenarea andthemechanicalactionhasamuch greater degree and Curtains (Figure 4.4) and tulle, lace, braid, fishing net, yarn produced by a single systems go at length, and cross another two or three of the third systems are As signed an angle of 45 . From the structure and characteristics of mechanical stretching indicate a good, healit hyqualitythatindicatesthe usefulnessofknittedappareltwists.Relative extensibility and open structure condition ability to maintain good heat knitting, not interfere with the necessary heat transfer and do not cause increased sweating.

a) b) c) 1 2 Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] d) Figure 4 1. Fabric appearance and with the scheme of basic fabric weave (a) linen (shown by dashes) and the scheme of arrangement or adjacent warp weft yarn fabrics in the longitudinal fullness (b) less, equal to or greater than 100% of the c- Scheme of the elementary unit of knitwear andcurtainlook knitwear -d Figure 4.2. The scheme forces acting on the weft yarn warp (a) , and b-in the direction of the warps, c-in weft direction Whenconnectingstructureofacertainqualityknitwearwithachoiceoffiber the corresponding appears pleasant feeling of comfort in the process of exploitation. By creating a knitwear by connecting bent yarn, provides the obvious little creasing knitted products,whileusingthesamerawmaterialslesscrowdedthanwoven. Thus,knitting meetthemodernneedsassuppliesofclothingforworkandrelaxation,comfortin wearing, heat retention, easily maintained. Mesh,madeofweftandknittingmethod,consistsofoverlappingelements. Forthe initial part of the process of creating the loop (Figure 4.5) take the folded part of the yarn (a). His connection with the following curved part of the first trap occurs (b) at the same timethenewcurvedpartoftheyarnproducedhalfloop. Thankstotheadditionofthe thirdbentpart,comesfromhalfloopsloop(c),thelastpartofthebentyarngoesinto half loop, a trap is left without change. Loopisabasicunitorelementofinterlacedyarn. Eachinitialorderisanorderof twiststraps, thelastrowisalwaysrowhalfloops. Thehorizontalarrangementofloops called loop row, vertical-loop series (Figure 4.6). In figure 4.7 shows the structure of the loop with the coupling elements with which the loop is connected to the upper and lower lying loops. Every two binding elements create Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] overlapping unit, located in the hatched box. One unifying element consists of two points of contact, which are black spots in the field. Size of the loop can explain the figure 7. Inadditionto theloop as abasic elementof cross-woven knitwear, andknitting and the castle appears as anelement intheinterlaced yarn (Figure 4.9). On Figure4.10as anelementof overlappingoccurs flotation, or succumbing passesover a series of (elongated loop).Trap as an element of overlapping occurs and the Elementary knitted knitwear(Figure 4.11and 4.12). Thetrap can be switched over two or moreelongatedloops or strings (Figure 4.13). Right figure shows the flotation of the yarn under the two loops or a series. Figure4.3. Forms of bent parts of the yarn to create knitwear from yarn systems a system of cross-yarn, b-a system of longitudinal yarns; c-transverse interference yarn, d-interference of longitudinal yarns Figure 4.4. CurtainFigure 4.5. Overlapping elements a- part-folded yarn (for hair); b-trap (1) and half loop (2); c-loop (3). Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 4.6. Loop order (P- horizontal; Loop sequence (PN vertical); left figure shows the same loops in order Figure 4.7.The construction of the loopFigure 4.8.The geometry of the loop

Figure4.9. Trap asFigure 4.10. Flotation asFigure 4.11.The trap as a knitwear element knitwear element fundamental basis of knitted twists Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 4.14 showsthe loop ontheright side (face) with bent pages 2loopsthat are located abovethe arch or a pinhead loop and left loop or reverse,wheretheneedle head protruding loops 1 and 3 over the page loop.The upper arch is a pinhead, and the bottom three platinum head loop *. Figure 4.12. Pitfalls in knitting: the left in an enclosed laying satin and right in the weft laying Figure 4.13. Trap over two elongated loops or two series, and right flotation yarn under two elongated loops or two rows * The needle andthe platinum loop heads moredetailsin thebook ofknittigtechnology and by Vojislav Gligorijevic Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 4.14. Cross knitted loop two sides (right and left side) Figure 4.16 showsthe edge loops thatare created so that the yarn that goes out of the knitting goes totheneighbori ng loop, then returns to its own loop, creating the third page of theloop. Edge loops are fromrowtorow ofalternating two or three vertical sites.Thethird page every timeexceeds the specified process of creating the position and theposition b,whichistypical for knitting inthefree state. From figure4.17 weseethat the edge loops constantly changing with three vertical pages as abentedge partsof the yarn, which does not receive any overlapping of the head, lay the yarn as the third page.

Figure 4.15. Elementary knitted loop Figure 4.16. Edge loop two sides (right and left side) Scheduled site loops andarches in knitting arefour basic typesof interlacement,made of coolingand knitting way: Right-Left (monotonous ) RL; Right-Right ( hypocritical ) RD; Left-Left (birefringence ) LL; Right-Right (interlock cross ) RRU Uniform right or left-sided smooth interlacement in theofweftliterature hasaname weave. There are two sides, one more beautiful to our eyes as a person, and one as the reverse side (Figure 4 17). right and left side theoretical position and edge loops a). tighten the position of edge loop b). Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 5.17. Right-left main interlacement The face knitwear has a page in a V-shaped (as in fish scales), and the reverse side has a cross-pinhead (like tiles on the roof).

Figure 4.18. Right-right base interlacementFigure 4.19. Left-left base Interlacement Right-Right base interlacement (Figure 4.18) has arranged alternately rightand left seri es of loops. Left- Left interlacement (Figure 4.19) has alternately arranged left and right rows loop. right sideleft side Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected]

Figure 4.20. More regular structure Figure 4.21. More regular structure of theloop right- right interlacementof the loop onthe left interlacement Figure 4.20 and 4.21 show a more regular form of loops that deviate from the ideal. Figure 4.22 shows the structure and graphical representation (bottom below the image) interlock interlacement.Thisis actually acombination oftwo two-faced (right-right) interlacemennetworked witheachother. Accordingtothe distribution betweenthe two setsof horizontal interlacement hypocriticalpinhead loop covering the sequences ofthe secondbirefringence interlacementso as to bothof the twists inthe crossstretched condition only visible site loop. Figure 4.23 is given a vivid structure of the interlacement.

In figure 4.24 is given loop geometry and longitudinal section above the basic interlacement. Depending on the type of interlacement, cross connection and the connection with thebringingthe yarn in thewrong space activities triggersyarn elasticityforces and internal stresses in the yarn.Mesh tends to take a position in which these forces would be able equalize. Depending on the type of basic interlacement twists in the direction of the ends towardthe middle. Mesh basic right-left interlacement and twist up toward the right side-faceat the upper and lower ends and the left side of the side edges. Horizontal and vertical linesofsectionexplain thistendency by twistingthe standard, in curved parts of the yarn tend to be corrected.Right-right interlacement b, left-left interlacement cand interlockcase,thetwists interlacement d have atendency to torsion,as the forces that act in thisinopposite directions,cancel eachother. Presentedcross-section alongthelengthallowsthis clarification.Inadditiontotwisting,stretchingtheknitwearsignificantlyaffectsthe geometry of loops. At the same time the right-left interlacement stretching is verysmall, while the right- right high elastic resilience and above all in the direction loop rows. Basedon these samples,weconclude that apinhead loop harder to correct, closelypressed by other loop stringsand theactionofthe forces in opposite directions is possibleto stretchtheopposite. On figure4.25 shows the geometryof loops and intersection byrows and rows, the right of the smooth interlacement. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected]

Figure4.22.Right-Right cross basic Figure4.24.Right-Right basic interlock interlock interlacement interlacementto look more appropriate structure Intheleft-leftinterlacementitonlyhappensin directionsloopseries. Resultsbentthe loop is also correct, causing compression of the vertical direction. Interlacement interlock is a small flexible both in loops direction of lines, and in the direction loops lines, as due to a combination of two right-right weave almost no room for the heading and the Thus, the forces caused by deformation of yarns, each other reversed.Since Mesh creates a bent connecting parts move from but related half loops, it pairsloopstheseries(released)interface;loopseriesin thecaseofplacenamesortear easily dischargedloop. Infigure26.4showsthis processwithright-leftand interlacement,with overlappingunitscanripintwofocus loopsrangeinlength. Inthe samefigurebispossible Slittingunitoverlappingonlyinthedirectionopposite her knitting.Loops,arrangedinarownexttoeachotherby widthoftheknitwear,creating horizontalloopinrow,arrangedoneabovetheotherby vertical,andpreparevertical loop n and z.Looprowknitwearscreateofweft sequencedbybendingayarnaroundtheneedle.Twistsdividetheofweft(cross-interlacement )andwarpknitting(intwobraidedfrombaseline). Looprowknitwearcreateofcooling sequencedbybendingayarn aroundtheneedle. Loop Elementaryrowknittedfabricsthingsatonce alternating passing warp yarn around needle machines. Wedistinguishtwotypesofknitwear:unilateral onorright-left(monotonous)your right-right (hypocritical).

Dial needle Cylinder needle Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 4.24. The geometry of loops and cross-section of the rows and rows, left side smooth (a), basic right-right (b), left-left (c) and interlock interlacement (d). Figure 4.25. The geometry of loops and cross-section of the rows and rows and right side smooth interlacement Right side Left side Left side Right side Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Figure 4.26. Discharged loop in the right-left a, and right-right - b interlacement Sided knitwear manufactured onmachines with a tray ofneedles-,double-knitted on machines with two needle bearings . In some cases one-sided fabrics are also available on hypocritical ties in terms a tray of needles.Double Side Mesh can be monotonous, hypocrisy birefringence ii. Figure 4.27 shows the structure of unilateral of cooling (Figure 4.27, a) and basic woven (Figure4.27, b) interlacement. Asyou can see fromthe picture, theseweave each loop consistsofthe base and the interface works. Approximately wecan count, that the base ofthe loop 1-2-3-4-5 consistsof twopages of loops 1-2 and 4-5, and a semi-circle, or upper needle port, 2-3-4.,5-6-7 loop connecti ngpartof coolingtwists inthe formof platinum bands,or asemi-circle, connecting the base of an adjacent loop loops order.Connecting part 5-6 elementariknitted loop is nearly straight cuts and, unlike the inter face of the loop twists of weft connecting loops, located in neighboringloops rows or in rows, whichare located at adistanceseveralloops rows fromeachother. Thus, the loop connecting parts Elementary interlacement knitwear sometimes connected to each other loops,whicharenotdesignated in theneighboring loops series, but the strings, which are located at a distance of one another. 4.1. Characteristics of the knitwear structure and their determination Mesh characterizedbythefollowing features and parameters:theunreveling, stretching,twisting, interference, density, lengthof yarn in theloop, theloopmodule, surfaceweight, thickness, strength, shape stabilityand interference, thedegreeof orientationofelementary units (loops), thelongitudinalfullness,surfaceandfullness bulk and so on. One ofthemostimportant parametersof thedensityofthe knitwear,thelength of yarn in the loop, the module and involvement. Density twists characterize thenumberof loops,which arelocated ontheunit ofits surface. Perunit area wetake asquareclothwithside10x10mm,50x50mmand 100x100mm. Density is determined in two directions: horizontally and vertically. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Density twists horizontally shows how the number loops sequences on agivenunit area, and mark with the Gh. The density of vertical shows how the number of rows loops located in a specific unit area, and mark it with Gv. Figure 4.27. Of weft (right-left) loop structures a and warp line b-interlacement knitwear Determinetheactualdensityofthesampleknitwear,andproducts,calculatingnumber of rows and loops- loops sequences on a given unit area.Whiledesigningthe knitweardensityiscalculatedtheoretically,starting froma given longitudinalmassfinenessoftheyarnormachine. Whencalculatingthedensityyou need to know loop Step A (Figure 4.27, a) and height loops row B, which, in turn, may be the density of horizontally and vertically.Step loop A (Figure 4.27, a) is called the distance between the axes of adjacent loops ofoneloopsorder. Loopstepsizecanbedeterminedcontrarytotheproportional density horizontally:A = 50 / Gh

Gh = 50 / A, That is, the higher the density of horizontally, thus less loop step.Line height loop and B is called the distance between the axes of two adjacent loops of one loops series (Figure 4.27 and 4.28). Row height loops, can be determined as the amount proportional to the density of the opposite vertical B = 50/Gv Gv = 50 / B.

Proper structure of twists to a great extent on the balance of density. In one-right-left smoothyarndensityvertically,asarule,thehigherthedensityofhorizontally. The thickness and horizontal-to-density vertically call The ratio of density and denoted with the letter C. C = G h / G v = 50 / A 50 / B = B / A.

Whendesigningfabricratioofdensityusedfordeterminingtheorderoftheloop Breakdown by series Breakdown by rows Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] density and vertically:B = CA, G v = 50 / B. Interference in theknitting yarn istheratiooflengthtoloopyarnusedforthe creation of loops order loop in a length loops order. Because there is a length of yarn in loops line with the number of loops N equals N and the length loops order at, then the twisting of yarn U = / A.

The density of knitted knit wears gives a full picture of the frequency of twists, as it is not characterized by fibrous material fullness free connecting parts of the yarns from which comprise the loop.Lengthof yarn in theloopandthelengthofyarnelementaryunits(loops)inthe corrected state.Experimental determination of the length of yarn in the loop is achieved only for cross Disengagedinterlacementknitwears. Forthisweneedasampleareaoftwistsand length 100mm width 100 loops series of twists and one-sided 50 loops series of double-sidedknitwear. Unravelseachlineseparately(atotalof5rows). Disengagedpass carefully and measure out the correct ruler its length. Mean length of yarn in the loop is calculated by the formula =, / n Lx where xL- the sum of the lengths of elementary yarns in mm; nthe total number of loops.For twists = n500; for double hypocriticalortwists with missed loops seriesn= n (100+X1-X2), where n- number of measurements; X1- missed loops sequences from the other side knitwear (sample), from which wecount 50 loops ranges;X2- missed loops sequences from the opposite side twists. Forhypocritical twistsandpressweave(fulljacquard)n=n250;forjacquard knitwear interlacement in complete n n = 0.5 (1 +0.5 Nb), where Nb-number of colors in a row loops ; to interlacement cloth combined with the binding of one-sided andtwo-sided weave Lx = Lp + g and n = 100n1 +50 n2, where the sum Lp- length interlacement the yarn in the ranks of the right-right(right-left), g total length of yarn to interlacement thesmooth lines (right-left), n1-number ofrows inknittingright-right interlacement the lengthof yarn inone line Lp, n2-numberof rowsin knitting asmooth interlacement with a length of yarn in one line Lg. Spacing -a across the width calculated with the formula a = A, where the -turn binding parts of the yarn; A -step-loop. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] For example, the knitwear interlacement smooth (as in Figure 4.28) a = A. Thedegreeof correctionthe elementary unit isdetermined by thefollowing formulas: Lengthwise = h/, Width = a/. where h, a- distance of elementary units (loops) to length and width. Figure4. 28. Schematic structureof knittedknit wear Thedegreof orientationelementary unitdescribedasthe ratioof thesum ofitsparts on the projections given to the length directionpd yarnin the loop. The degreeof orientationof elementary units in lengthd and width is calculated by formulas: d = pd / , = p / , where pd, p - sum of parts of the loop according to projections in the longitudinal direction (lengthwise) and the width. Example. For thecase, which isgiven in Figure 4.28, we accept thatpd=2h=2(B+dt) and p = A+4dt.Then d = 2(B+dr)/ ; = (A+4dr)/ . To determinethe fullnessof knitwearProf. A.. Dalidovich introduces theintroduced a formula forthe linear module loopandthatshowshowthetheoreticaldiameterofthe yarn are (placed) in the length of a yarn loop , that is, mL = / dt,, where mL-length loop module; - length of yarn in the loop, mm; dt-theoretical diameter of the yarn (no air spaces), mm. At oneand thesame fullnessof knitwear density can bechanged dependingonthe diameter of the yarn, and its thickness. Then, at the same densities dense count more dense knitwear with the lowest module loop. Reductionof loop modules can be achieved byincreasing orreducingthe diameter of the yarn length of yarn in the loop. Consequently, the smaller the linear module loop,thus being more densely knit. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Giving the module loop twists certain value, we can determine the length of yarn in the loop twists depending on the diameter of the yarn.The calculationsin general rule is that we start with the loop module, and its value. In addition to modules in length loops, the complete characteristic twists and determine surface-volume loop module. Surface loop module mp also characterized by fullness and degree of porosity knitwear. Surface loop module determined by the yarn diameter d in free the position: mp = AB / d . Volume loop module characterized by the volumetric leakage and test weight knitwear. Determineit by cross-sectionalarea exceeds that nearly qualifyas thesurfaceof theellipse : mv = 16 ( ),2pd dABM+ whereM-thick knitwear, mm; dP-thickness yarns in knitting, mm. Properties and external form twists to a large extent depends onon itsstructure,or interlacement.

Lengths fullness characterized fullness parts knitting yarn row height or width loop loops steps.Calculation of longitudinal fullness twists difficult because of complex shapes elementary units ( loops) and their mutual arrangement.. For simple interlacement, such as right-left (of cooling, smooth), fullness can be calcu- ated using the formula, proposed by Professor A. N. Soloviev;veritcal EV = 2dt G v, horizontally Eh = 4dt G v. wheredt -theoretical diameter of the yarn. Surface fullnessof knitwear aredeterminedusing projectionsof yarns in theloopthe area, limited height and width of the loop line loops steps.For the simple twists fullness surface can be calculated using the formula or ProfessorA.N. Soloviev. E = 100 (dt -4) / (AB). Bulk fullnessof fabric determines the ratioof volumeof yarn inthe looptwists tothe volume of the loop. EV = ( / p) 100, where - medium weight knitwear in g m-3, which is calculated by the formula

= QM-1, whereQ is the surface-mass 1m2 knitwear in grams; M- thickness of the knitwear; mm p-mean density of the yarn in g m-2. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Thefullnessof themass ratio isdetermined by weight yarn twists itsmaximumweight (the full fullness total volume of raw material from which cloth is made yarn) Em = ( /) 100, where -specific density of material that is made yarn, g cm-3. Volume porosity shows parts of the air spaces between the yarns RV = 100 EV. Total porosity shows parts of the air spaces in the knitting, as the yarns, as well as inside the yarn Ru = 100 Em. Volume ratio knitwear established formula Kv = . / 100 /mE = Theangle ofcurvature loops order-to theangle loops orderinline, opposite the longitudinal bending twists, andtheangle ofcurvatureloops series - theangle of inclination loops series by bending twists or edges (ends). The angle of curvature can be measured by protractors with error no more than 1o. Shrinkage during knitting Mesh, which is the time knitting in anunstable position, duetointernaldeformation energy, is generally more expensive on the machine during the knitting, so to change its geometrical parameters.Trawl, and tighteningrollers,alwayskeepknittinginatense situation and from time to time indulge in knitting, it would also be rolled up to trade rolls.Change the width of fabric is defined by shrinkage. s (%)= 100is i , where i- width knitted knitwears on pins and needles (machine); s-width stripped s . Thecollection dependingonthewidth bearing needle, typeand qualityofmaterials and knitwear density, and ranges from 6% to 18%. Dry relaxation Shrinkage knitwear's removed from the machine is extended from 5 to 20 days. After this time,Meshhasarelativelystablecondition,afterallthistimesimplyrested.Itisan independent measure of changes in the new twists, which comes under the influence of timeandenvironment(heat,humidity)withadelaytotheequilibriumstateofinternal tension.Afterknittingwithknitwearalwaysbeentenseinthelongitudinaldirection, tensionrollersforactioncomesduringtherelaxationusuallyamarkedelongationand less perceived or complete of the negative cross- shrinkage. Shrinkage knitwear's defined as above. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] , 100 (%)12 1LL Lss= where L1-length after removal of the machines; L2-length changed. Whendry,Meshrelaxationisonlyinrelatively steadystate,providedthattheyare independent dimensionalchangeonlywhenitdoesnotchangetheconditionsof his maintenance. In the changed conditions of relaxation is easy prolonged. Wet relaxation If knittwear a long time submerged in water, which has added softener anddried withouttension, then goes into arelatively stable state witha greaterdegreeof relaxation.However, if manytimes werepeatthe washingand drying without tension, thebest approach to complete relaxation, itisastate, whenthereareknitting the minimumamount ofinternal deformation energy,and when atleast thetendencyto change shape achieved the highest formal stability.The changes are defined as before smr (%) =. 10012 1LL L Shrinkage knitwear whenwashed again inthedirectionof loopsand arrays inthe direction ofrows ofloops. Thenegative valueof shrinkage inthedirectionof the loop lines tells us that for a given percentage Meshgathered.. Knitted cotton products, which were wet relaxed, the washing time can be changed to 5 up to 10%. Diameter of small yarns the yarn twist calculating formula d =,28 tTor d =o,oo357,1 tT where - specific density of fiber or material, from which he made yarn, g cm-3; Tt -longitudinal weight yarn in tex. Through the conditional diameter of yarn and longitudinal mass we can calculate the linear loop module according to the formula mL =.28tT Table 4.1. given the valuesof density offiber, , i28 for most used inthe knitwear industry. Yarn diameter d substantially depends not only onthedensityof fibers,butalsothe structure of the yarn cross-sectional shape, twist in the fibers and other morphological characteristics. Inaddition, itisinevitablethatsignificant variation in thicknessof the yarn, where it is not the same for different types of yarn. When the budget is not possible to take all the qualities, inherent in the yarn, especially if Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] it consists of two or more components (types of fibers). Then to determine the module loop we can use a simplified formula ,32tTm= Byaccepting that thevalueof approximately equalto 32 for all typesofyarns (threads).Hence,it should benoted that thevalueof themoduleloop we determine foreach type of cloth istakeninto account thetypeofinterlacement, its purpose and typeof applied yarn. Module loop structure best characterized loop knitted products with both thegeometric,and physical-mechanical, reflectingthe use-valuecharacteristicsof knitted knitwear: density, tensile strength, thickness and surface mass 1m2. A series of research papers, the theoretical explanation of the structure of the loop knitwear, confirmed the importanceof firstinstance asthe loopmoduleknitwear parameter,whichcharacterizesthe geometric and physicalmechanical properties of knitted knitwear. Basically, these works are given the study of rigidity of yarn bending and twisting on the shape and characteristics of the loop knitwear. Table 4.1. Density values of fiber Types of fiber 28Cotton1.521.2334 Viscous 1.521.2334 Polyvinylchloride 1.491.2234 Polyester1.381.1833 Acetate1.361.1733 Worsted1.321.1532 Polyacrylonitrile1.171.0830 Polyamide1.141.0730 Polypropylene0.910.9627 Basedon analysisof links between modules and loop yarn bendingrigidity, itwas concluded that theinternalor external forces, causedbyany relative deformationof the yarn in loops or loops knitted product in its entirety, are proportional to the squareopposi tethemodule loop. Whatisthe lowermoduleof theloop,itwill bea smallvalue of internal forces andlower levels ofpotentialenergy ofdeformationloops,whichmeans greater instability forms the loop. Excessive reduction of loop modules makes theproce ss of creating a loop and negatively affect the stability of the exploitation of knitwear, as the interaction of increased force and friction at the contact points of yarn leading toinc reased irreversible deformation of knitted twists. Onthebasis ofsaid conclude that foreach typeof rawmaterial, interlacement,productspecificpurpose match theiroptimal values or interval valuesoftheloopmodule,in which the knitting gets best useful deformation properties or on the contrary, the best stability during the operation. Relationship between the yarn needle into the loop and step machines no satisfactory analytical solution for the many factors that affect the dependence. Experimental researchon hosiery machines have shown dependence on two equations: Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] ,63 , 015 , 2;25 , 02maxmintTttTttt+ =+ = wheremin - the minimum value of the length of yarn in the loop, obtained at full speed, the machine and using high quality yarn;

max - The maximum length of yarn in the loop with these same conditions; t-step needle machine.Ingeneralwecansaythattheknitwearindustryhavetwodifferentdiameteryarnor thread: theoretical and computational dr dt; in the free position d.The theoretical diameter of the yarn we believe that no air space between the individual fibers into yarn.In the knitting process in such a situation can come only certain parts of the yarn, for example, under the pressure of knittingorgans. Yarn in the free space is not subject to actionandtoforceairspacebetweentheindividualfiberhasadiameterdtanddr. Whendesigningknittingmachinesdonotusethetheoreticaldiameteroftheyarns have to consider only mean diameter d into freeposition.Ifwelookatcross-sectionSingleyarnunderamicroscopewecanseethatthe intersectionofirregularshape. However,ifweacceptthatcross-sectionofyarnis circular in shape, then the yarn can be seen as obviously a large cylinder of length L in km. Then thediameterof such cylinders have a mean diameter d.Weightingramscylindricalyarnlength1m,Tt=0,25d2,where-densityofthe yarn in a specific g cm-3, d-diameter of yarn in mm. Mass of 1 km will cross the Tt = 250 d2, where the dtT210 57 , 3 = =. 0357 , 01 tT The above formula shows that the actual diameter of the yarn depends not only on its longitudinalmass, but also on its density . If we mark that k = 3,57 , 10 102 / 1 2 weget d = k.tTInadditiontotheactualdiameteroftheyarndifferentiateandcomputationalor theoretical diameter:

, 00357 , 01 = t tT d

where- volumetric density of fiber in g cm-3.Yarn,weusetheknitwear,usuallyundergoestwistinginordertoincreaseits Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] strength. Usuallyusetwo-wireswitchthathasgreaterstrengththansingle,becausein theprocessofknittingyarnsuffersgreatstress.Longitudinalmassyarn18.5tex(Two Single carded) has an ultimate tensile strength 280 cN, and a common longitudinal mass yarn 37tex-165cN. Strength of the yarn is reduced by 1.7 times.Wewillconsidertwo-wiremeandiameterthreadlikeyarndsr. Indeterminingthe diametershouldbetakenintoaccountthatintheprocessofknittingoncircular machines with a rotary cylinder-wire yarn gets fewer turns (Figure 4.29).Researchresultshaveshownthatcross-wirecross-sectionhastheshapeofan ellipse with axes d and 2d, where d is the diameter of the Single-yarn.Duringthetransitionfromsectiontosection1-12-2thisellipseisrotated 90o. Projecting on a horizontal plane section 1-1 and 2-2, which arelocated at different heights, we can not accept that the average diameter exceeds a respective side of the rectangle whose diagonal is equal to 2d, i.e. dsr = 2d sin 450 = 1.41 d.

InTable4.2,aregivenvaluesofthecoefficientkfordifferenttypesofyarnand thread.If we go through a common longitudinal mass cross Ttz = 2Tt, we get that

dsr = k . 41 . 1 d Ttz= Todeterminethe actual diameterof theyarn (Table 4.3) musttake intoaccountthe coefficient offullness exceed q, which shows theamountofspace to thetotal area of fiber yarns. The actual diameter of the yarn d = k ), (mm Tt wherek = 2/ q .The coefficient of fullness exceeds q for coarser yarns were in range 0.45 to 0.60. So forexample the bleached cotton fiber yarn with adensity = 1520 kgm-3ratioof fullness exceeds q = 0.49 and weget k = 0.0412.Thedensityof theyarn (q), which is used inthe knitwear industry in theRecommendations. Dalidovich, andthecoefficientk are given in the table 4.2. After determining thedensitybycalculatingthe heightof thehorizontalline loop, based on the size loops steps and density ratio of C: B = CA. Accordingtothetheory ofknitting inthe design ofsmooth knitwear adopt hat C = 0.865, where the B = 0.865 4d. Figure 4. 29. Schematic cross-wire cross sections. Thelengthof yarn intheloop. Forcharacteristicsoftwists greaterimportanceis the lengthof yarnloop, which influences themass, density,strength andstretching.The lengthof theloop canbe determined by actual sample twists and theoretical calculation (aftercalculatingdensity) accordingtotheformula, proposedbyProf. A.. Dalidovich. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] By computational formulas yarn length in theloopwefind,depending onthesizeof loopSteps A, B loop row height and diameter or thickness yarn d.Thestructureof theloop (Figure 4.27) wesee that2-3-4 and 5-6-7 arcs constitute a semicircle with diameter D. Each page is aboutloop yarn d. Accordingly, the loop length is = D + 2B. From the figure we see that A = 2D -2D, where is D = A / 2+ d, where d-the actual diameter of the yarn. Substituting values of D in the first equation, we get = (A / 2 d) +2B, or = 1.57 A d+ 2B.If the page loop we consider as the hypotenuse right triangle with legs, an equal amou nt of order loops B and yarn diameter d, the formula for calculating the length of yarn inthe loop will get the form: = 78,5/Gh+2 .2 2d d B + +The actual length of yarn in the loop is determined by the sample knitwear. Unraveling one line loop, measure the length of yarn disengaged and as a result of the shareofloops or strings; disengaged = L / n, where - length of yarn in the loop, mm; L-length of yarn in n loops, or strings in mm;n-number disengaged loop. Surface mass 1m2. Weight knitwear depends on the length of yarn in the loop, from which it is composed, its density and longitudinal mass of yarn, from which it is made. Surface mass 1m2 smooth twists determine, based on the length of the knitting yarn in a given mass and longitudinal yarns: Q = L Tt/1000, whereQ is the surface-mass 1m2 twists, g; L-length of yarn in a given yarn, mm; Tt-masses per unit length of yarn, tex. Length L in a given yarn knitting yarn shown through the loop length inmm., And the number of loops n twists, then Q = n Tt /1000. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Table 4.2. Values of coefficient k Types of yarn and thread kTypes of yarn and threadk Unbleached Cotton0,039528 Polyester0,041109 Bleached cotton0,041109 Polyacrylonitrile0,0386 Cotton (viscous)0,042058 Polyamide silk0,044271 Woolen worsted0,041109 Viscose and silk copper ammonia0,034785 Carded woolen 0,043007Yarn- Polyacrylonitrile fiber 0,046801 Flax and wet spun hemp 0,038579 Yarn of viscose and copper ammonia fiber 0,03896 Flax and hemp spun dry 0,049015 Polyacrylonitrile binding0,041109 Acetate fiber order0,041109 Polyester Yarn fiber 0,041109 Polyamide 0,049015 Polyester silk0,037947 High volume0,0569 Natural silk0,037947 Polyamide fiber mono-0,0332 Yarn spun from silk waste0,041109 Viscous thread0,041113 Yarn of acetate fibers0,04108 Polyamide thread0,046805 Polyester thread0,043643 Polyamide filament less braided 0,0380 Polyamide filament more braided 0,0370 Lavsan thread0,043643 Number of loops in a given length of knitwear surface can be expressed by its density: n = GhGvS1000/55 , where is the S-surface twists, mm2. Substitutingthevaluesnecessarypreviousequation,wegettheformulaofsurface mass 1m2 smooth twists: Q = 0.4 G h G v Tt / 1000, where is 400 - coefficient, which indicates that the twists in 1m2 area, equal to 25 cm2, at which we calculate the density, fits 400 times. Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] Table 4.3. Values of coefficient k for the calculation and the actual diameter of the yarn YarnComputing/k.qActual/k Raw cotton1,5200,02890,8250,0393 Bleached cotton1,5200,02890,74480,0413 Woolen1,3200,03100,7000,0420 Area1,5000,02910,7550,0410 Acetic1,2500,03190,6900,0429 Polyamide1,1400,03340,6750,0434 Polyacrylonitrile1,1700,03300,7600,0409 Polyacrylonitrile- voluminous - - 0,190 0,0819 Flax1,500,02910,7550,0426 Natural silk1,3600,03060,7430,0480 Viscous witch- to silk 1,50 0,0291 0,755 0,0410 Polyester1,380,03030,7760,0459 Copper-amonia the rayon 1,50 0,291 0,755 0,0410 Triacetate 1,28 0,0315 0,498 0,0505 PP 0,910,03740,3650,0590 Thethicknessofknitting. ThethicknessofknittingMdependsonthetypeof knitwearandtheyarndiameter,fromwhichitismade. Expressedinmmandthe diameterdeterminesthenumberofcrosssectionofitslength.Thicknessofsmooth knitting weft slightly longer than d. Strengthoftheknitting. Strengthoftheknittingischaracterizedbyitsbreaking load. In most cases the volume is determined on the dynamometer simultaneously with the determination of ductility.Determinethestrengthoftwistsalongthelengthandwidth,itsstretchinginthe respective directions. Chrinkageknitting. Shrinkageyarncalledrelativechangeitswidthorlengthfora given interval of time or due to some process of its processing. Chrinkage knitwears depends on the balance of his steps and loop step machines, on which it is made. With increasing step loop A collection of knitwear is reduced, and with increasing Step Machines steps t increases.Shrinkageyarnisexpressedasapercentage. Ifthewidthofknitwearforits preparationwasp,andafterremovingandagingApequal,itwillshrinkinwidth,S expressed as a percentage, to be Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] S =, 100 1 100 ||

\| =tAA pp p or S =. 100 1 1001 1||

\| =AAAA A Shrinkage in length is equal to SL =. 100 1 1001 1||

\| =BBBB B Shrinkagetwistswidthisparticularlyevidentimmediatelyuponremovalfromthe machine. Thesameprocessofshrinkageshallbeextendedforatimenotjustinthe processofaging,butalsointheprocessofwearingandespeciallyafterfinishing. 4.2. Loop structure elements, graphic and technicalcartridges Mesh is supplied from a yarn or yarn warp system through the creation of loops and their mutual interplay. The basic elements of the knitwear in the graphic display includes a loop (Figure 4.30, a), the trap 2 and cross the third flotation Pointdistribution(Figure4.30,b)indicatesthedistributionofneedlesontheknitting machine in order loop right-left interlacement (single or one-sided). For right-right interlacement (two-or two-sided) order loop is marked with dots on two levelswithagapofhalfstepsneedletmachine(Figure4.30,c),oronepoint(needle) versus another, which conforms to the layout of needles for the right-right cross-interlock interlacement (Figure 4.30, d). Once again we note that the basic geometrical parameters of knitted twists include:lengthof yarn in theloop, loop step and lineheight loop.Fortheanalysisofknitwear structures proposed method geometric modeling. Many re not stretched searchers analyze different parts of the loop are reduced to finding a bent shape of the smail bodies (Figure 4.31). Hence,it is aformof homogeneous resistance to bendingof theyarn is expressed by special function.A similar approach is used with multi-stage-level approximation budget in terms of knitting yarn in her real condition. This method has advantages over geometrical, becau se it takes into account the characteristics of the yarn and gives the relation between the size of the loop on the rheologicalproperties of the yarn. Formorecomplex interlacement ananalytical descriptionofthe loop is verydifficult method. Therefore, for the calculation of the length of yarn in the loop uses a empirical in which the length of the loop associated with parameters of twists / 2,and 2. These parameters arefound experimentally for each particular typeofinterlacement. This method, like any other empirical method of any science, can not be taken as univer- sal. In accordance with the principle Kastiljan real form of body balance is different from all possible formsof thebody inthat strain for their sizehasminimalvalue.Thepotential energy of deformation of bending the yarn in the loop is W = (1/2)102), 2 /( EI dz MTechnology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] wherethe sizeis proportionaltothe bendingmoment energy. Itisclearthat the minimum energy corresponding to the minimum value of bendingmoment. Klebs relationship based on proportional-bend curvatures 1 / at the moment ofof deformation of bending: M = EI / , where EI-rigidity cross-section during bending. Figure 4.30. Elements loop structures and their graphicalrepresentation Area occupied by one loop is S = AB (mm2). Then the steady state requires aminimumloopyarn curvature in theloop,which correspondsto themaximum surface loops S. Letthemaximumof thefunction S = AB = f (A, B) the total available on the variable

(A, B) = -x A-y B-z d = 0 If the individual performing the A and B equate to zero, we get: / A = B - = 0; / B = A y = 0, Where is B = x, A = y. Figure 4.31. Element of the model loop Substituting these values in the conditional relation - xy - xy - zd = 0 we can determine : = ( - z d) / (2xy). Substitutingthe valuesof inthe expression for S, weget S = ( - zd) 2 / (4xy); Hence, it is A = ( - z d) / (2x), B = (-z d) / 2y. .For quality assessment of the steady state twists introduced ratio of density C = B / A = G h / G v = x / y. Deviationsfrom these values lead tonot steadythepositionandpossibilities of Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // [email protected] deformation knitwear. As in the expression for the length of the loop smooth interlacement x = / 2,y = 2, the coefficient for the steady state density will be:

C = B / A = x / y = / 4 = 0.785. Loop between steps, therowheight and lengthof yarn loops in theloop,thereis some empirical relations in the form: A = A (, Tt), B = B (, Tt). Tensile knitwear changes the distance between the ds0fixed points of the yarn in their transfer to space. A relative of a particular length is expressed as follows: = (ds dso)/dso ; whereds-distancebetweenpointsinthenewposition deformedpositionof knitwear. The deformation can be all over the bridge, or L = ( B Bo)/Bo , w = (A Ao)/Ao .

Theseparametersariseasameasureofdistortion tensiletwists. However,theydo not meet important needs ofadditivity two sequenced strains.Realistic to allow the yarn initial length Lo examines the two sequenced strain and L1 and L2.Wewillconsidertwocases,whenyougototheelongation intermittentand continuous. Resultsinbothcasesmust beequal. Therelativeelongationatstrainwith interruptions: 1+2=L1 /Lo+L2/(Lo+L1)=( ) ( ) ( ) [ ] ( ) [ ], /121 1L L L L L L Lo o o o + + + Continuously

1 + 2 = ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )( ) [ ] ( ) [ ]. / ) ( ) /1 2 121 2 1 2 1L L L L L L L L L L L L Lo o o o o + + + + = + Comparing both expressions we see that the 1+21 + 2,, that is, the cumulative strain is achieved continuous and not equal to the sum sequenced strain. This does not correspondtorealitybecausethedifferences between1+2and1+2eventually disappearandelongation L1andL2becomesmallincomparisontoLo.When L is small, then at higher elongation leads to infinitely small changes in length bydL thecurrentsizeofthelengthL. Then

Tehnology of Knitting With the Theoretical

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