FINANCIAL: G-20 statement gives

retail shares a boost, page 2.

RETAIL: Over the top with

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A Touch of ScarletCarolina Herrera is seeing red — but in a good way. The designer and her namesake daughter teamed up on CH Carolina Herrera, intended to be the newest pillar of the Herrera fragrance franchise. The scent will launch in the U.S. in July at Nordstrom before rolling out to its full U.S. distribution of 220 specialty stores. For more, see page 7.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 3, 2009 • $3.00

WWDFRIDayBeauty

See Where, Page 4

Dressing Michelle O: Major Designers Wait For First Lady’s CallBy Bridget FoleyWhere in the world are Donna, Ralph and Calvin?

Certainly not on the spousal circuit at the G-20 summit in London. In fact, as President Barack Obama and 19 other global leaders huddle to ponder the world’s economic woes, Michelle Obama has reaffirmed with gusto her fashion support of America’s new and niche, and given anecdotal support as well to antiprotectionism via cardigans by Azzedine Alaïa and Junya Watanabe.

Yet, save for a recent digression to Michael Kors, Obama continues to show zero interest in the big guns of American fashion, those whose names resonate around the world, and who collectively employ thousands of people. Obama’s early appearances in the likes of

BEAUTY: Kiehl’s gives flagship a makeover, page 7.

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By Evan Clark

RETAIL SHARES RALLIED A STRONG 4.3 percent Thursday as the G-20 meeting of world leaders in London produced signs of at least temporary unity and a Deutsche Bank report said Kohl’s Corp., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Macy’s Inc., Target Corp. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. would pick up sales from failing competitors.

President Obama and other leaders of global powerhouses spoke forthrightly about the finan-cial crisis and, to the surprise of some, managed to boost support for the International Monetary Fund by $1.1 trillion to help stabilize the global economy.

“We face the greatest challenge to the world economy in modern times,” said the leaders in a joint communiqué. “A global crisis requires a global solution.”

The S&P Retail Index jumped 12.78 points to 310.43 Thursday, outperform-ing the Dow Jones Industrial Average’s advance of 2.8 percent, or 216.48 points, to 7,978.08. The Dow re-visited the 8,000 mark for the first time since Feb. 13 but was unable to close above it.

Among the retail gainers were the compa-nies singled out by Deutsche Bank analyst Bill Dreher as those likely to pick up sales as other chains shutter doors, file for bankruptcy or liq-uidate. The group included Macy’s, ahead 12.7 percent to $10.18; Penney’s, 6.9 percent to $21.97; Target, 4.9 percent to $36.06; Kohl’s, 3.5 percent to $45.10, and Wal-Mart, 1.6 percent to $53.64.

Dreher said recently announced store clo-sures would put about $22 billion in sales “up for grabs” and that these companies were the most likely to fill the void.

“These retailers have the balance sheet strength and successful merchandising and mar-keting strategies to be key beneficiaries of the up-for-grabs market share,” the analyst said. “We expect the share gains to become increasingly evident throughout 2009 and into 2010.”

Dreher also raised his target prices for Penney’s, up to $24 from $18, and Kohl’s, up to $53 from $43.

Retail stocks have risen strongly in recent

weeks, coming off of depths that were more or less unimaginable a year ago — a state of af-fairs that might well be contributing to their comeback as investors reevaluate how retailers should be valued and their chances of survival.

“They’ve priced all these companies down for extinction; they’re not dead yet,” said Bill Rhodes, chief investment strategist at Rhodes Analytics, who noted stocks are bouncing off a bottom, but wouldn’t go as far as to say the mar-kets’ longer-term bottom had been reached.

“The market is at a point where it could very well roll over [and start back down],” he said.

It could also continue upward.“There’s a lot of cash on the sidelines,” Rhodes

said. “It doesn’t take a lot of movement for that cash to come in and move the market higher.”

The recession, which has already claimed nearly 4.4 million jobs in the U.S. and is expected to continue to cut into employment rolls for months to come, has radically changed what counts as reas-suring to Wall Street.

“There are at least hints of modestly bad news now, as opposed

to horrifically horrible news, and the markets may be attaching to that,” said Andrew Bernard, director of the Center for International Business at the Dartmouth’s Tuck School of Business.

“Consumers and firms have been holding their breath for quite a while and not spending anything,” Bernard said. “There’s at least some sign that the more regular activity’s going to be occurring going forward.”

Economists expect the unemployment rate rose in March from the 8.1 percent registered in February. The Labor Department gives its monthly jobs update today.

In London, the G-20 nations stood behind the principles of a world economy based on market forces, effective regulation, strong global institu-tions and continued trade. “We are committed to take all necessary actions to restore the normal flow of credit through the financial system and ensure the soundness of systemically important institutions,” the leaders said.

By Andrew Roberts

MILAN — Ittierre SpA may have secured the Just Cavalli license for another five years and per-haps its future as well, WWD has learned.

According to sources, Roberto Cavalli could sign a new contract in the next 24 hours, after being won over by Ittierre’s special administra-tors and their plans for his younger line. The current deal expires in 2010.

If Cavalli does so, it would mark a turning point for Ittierre, which filed for the Italian equivalent of Chapter 11 bankruptcy protec-tion in February after running out of cash. Just Cavalli is Isernia, Molise, Italy-based Ittierre’s biggest license, generating revenues in 2007 of around 240 million euros, or $329 million, and is highly profitable. Ittierre’s other licenses in-clude C’N’C Costume National, Galliano, VJC Versace and Versace Sport.

Dollar figures were converted at average ex-change rates for the periods to which they refer.

A spokeswoman for Cavalli could not be reached for comment at press time.

A new deal would be the second major achievement for administrators Andrea Ciccoli, Stanislao Chimenti and Roberto Spada, who se-cured a 30 million euro, or $39.7 million, line of credit from five Italian banks at the end of February, allowing Ittierre to restart its engines and continue day-to-day operations.

“The company would be on track financially and strategically,” sources said Thursday. “This changes the perspective for everyone and sig-nals the company will make it.”

A renewal would also signal a U-turn for Cavalli, who blamed Ittierre for having to can-

cel Just Cavalli’s fall-winter runway show in February, citing delays and substandard produc-tion. At the time, Cavalli said he tried to termi-nate the contract “some months ago” for not hav-ing been paid 20 million euros, or $26.5 million, in royalties and questioned the administrators’ abilities to turn Ittierre around. He also said he was in discussions with other potential partners, including Renzo Rosso’s Staff International, and could even take Just Cavalli’s production in-house. Cavalli’s remarks led Ittierre to threaten legal action.

Cavalli gave the first indications that rela-tions had thawed on Wednesday, telling WWD he was committed to Ittierre.

“I will personally call between 200 and 300 of the best stores [that carry Just Cavalli] to tell them that I’m involved and I will speak to the 400 [Ittierre] workers [at the factory] in Isernia,” Cavalli said at the time.

Ittierre employs 772 people.Sources also said a new contract with Ittierre

would strengthen Cavalli’s position in negotia-tions with Clessidra SGR SpA. Cavalli is in talks with the private equity firm to sell a 20 percent stake in his eponymous fashion company. He last met representatives from the fund on Tuesday, when they laid out what he described as an “in-teresting plan.”

With Cavalli on board, the administrators will step up efforts to renew contracts with other li-censors before addressing Ittierre’s parent com-pany, IT Holding SpA, sources said.

IT Holding, which owns the Gianfranco Ferré, Malo and Extè brands, followed its production and licensing unit into administration at the end of February.

Retail Stocks Rise 4.3 Percent

Just Cavalli Said Near Ittierre Deal

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is firsTname.lasTname@fairchildpub.com, using The individual’s name.

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1FASHIONAs 20 global leaders ponder the world’s economic woes, Michelle Obama has reaffirmed her fashion support of America’s new and niche.

GENERALRetail shares rallied a strong 4.3 percent Thursday as the G-20 meeting of world leaders in London produced signs of at least temporary unity.Ittierre SpA may have secured the Just Cavalli license for another five years, and perhaps its future as well, it was learned.Victoria’s Secret Beauty is overhauling its Very Sexy color cosmetics with the first project by “Project Runway” winner Christian Siriano.With new scent CH Carolina Herrera, the designer, her daughter and licensee Puig are aiming to add a third pillar to their large U.S. business.Kiehl’s Third Avenue flagship in Manhattan has undergone a 21st-century overhaul, with a new gifting counter and exclusive products.Valentino stood at the base of the cobblestone Via Rodeo in Beverly Hills on Thursday to receive a Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award.FINANCIAL: Belk Inc. took heavy fourth-quarter losses, but the chain said it’s poised to emerge from the downturn in better shape.

EYEIf there was any question why Sir Philip Green threw three parties surrounding Thursday’s Topshop opening, he answered it bluntly.

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forever. I think the doors are going to open up.” — Donna Karan on First Lady Michelle Obama’s

so-far limited fashion choices. Page one.

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WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoUP. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A.VOLUME 197, NO. 70. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P.o. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

The Dow reached the 8,000 mark for the first time since Feb. 13.The Dow reached the 8,000 mark for the first time since Feb. 13.

Daphne Guinness in Jasmine Di Milo.

Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony

• Video and more photos from the Topshop opening in New York

• Beauty Roundup: April 3, 2009• Additional images from the Valentino

premiere and Rodeo Drive Walk of Style awards ceremony

• WWD Blogs: Ciara's Alter Ego and how the economy is impacting Las Vegas

• More on Michelle Obama's style

4 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

Where in the World Are Donna, Ralph and Calvin?Jason Wu, Thakoon and Isabel Toledo, (with the punch of Narciso Rodriguez worked in for good measure), both captivated and charmed much of the country while exciting an industry that un-derstands the myriad challenges faced by small fashion houses even under the best of circumstances. But as time goes on, with economic recovery feeling none too close and the Obamas’ honey-moon with the world still passionate enough for the First Lady’s sartorial choices to garner major, gushing headlines, should she diversify her wardrobe choices, especially as the industry pre-pares to celebrate her with a CFDA Board of Directors Special Tribute? Indeed, does she have a responsibility to do so?

Like the auto and financial industries, fashion is in crisis. Yet the person in the administration best positioned to support its major players — those whose collective vicissitudes play into the economy in a considerable way and whose individual swings of fortune impact the lives of countless working people up and down the supply chain and their families — is giving them the cold shoulder. And we don’t mean Donna Karan’s. No one’s asking for a big-gun bailout, Mrs. O (at least not yet). But how about a shout-out?

Who cares about one woman’s wardrobe choices in this time of turmoil? A lot of people. London fawning has of-ficially crossed over from gushing to silly, The Daily Telegraph proclaiming Obama “the mint-green queen of fashion,” while The Guardian said “Mrs. O has all but obliterated last year’s Carlamania from the fashion history books, with an outfit that draws a direct bloodline between her look and the wardrobe with which Jackie Kennedy wowed Europe in 1961.”

To a large extent, the fashion ship sails on such hyperbole — and on human product place-ment. Especially now, the kind of worldwide attention Obama and her labels are getting can boost an entire cor-porate psyche from de-signer to ground floor. It can boost sales as well. Obama’s now famous J. Crew beaded cardigan reportedly sold out by midmorning on Wednesday. Similarly, might not a chic sight-ing of the First Lady in Ralph Lauren or Donna Karan prod some women to stroll through Saks Fifth Avenue or Neiman Marcus? As Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa puts it, “We’d be thrilled to dress the First Lady, of course. She has the power to influence consumers.”

Within the major fashion houses, there is a growing de-sire for Obama to broaden her choices to include their wares. “American fashion right now is struggling,” says Oscar de la Renta. “I think I understand what [Obama and her advisers] are doing, but I don’t think that is the right message at this particu-lar point….I don’t object to the fact that Mrs. Obama is wearing

J. Crew to whatever because the diversity of America is what makes this country great. But there are a lot of great designers out there. I think it’s wrong to go in one direction only.”

Tommy Hilfiger takes a more temperate view, applaud-ing Obama for not focusing only on the high end. “I’m happy that she’s wearing young designers and not only wearing [American] couture, which puts her more in touch with real people,” he says.

Kors, the only major designer to have found his way into a recent photo op, defends Obama’s range. “She’s the first First

“American fashion right now is struggling. I think I understand what [Obama and her advisers] are doing, but I don’t think that is the right message at this particular point. ”

— Oscar de la Renta

Obama wears Junya

Watanabe over Jason Wu

in London on Thursday.

A Photoshopped image of Michelle Obama in a look from Ralph Lauren for fall. Opposite, fall looks WWD would love to see Obama try...

Continued from page one

WWD.COM5WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

Where in the World Are Donna, Ralph and Calvin?

Lady who’s ever worn sportswear,” he says. “If you think about it, she’s worn everybody from Azzedine Alaïa to Michael Kors to Isabel Toledo or Jason Wu to J. Crew to Donna Ricco.”

Certainly, there’s still plenty of admiration for Obama’s embrace of the younger set. “I think it’s all right that she chooses young designers, because it’s American fashion that’s going around [the world],” ob-serves Carolina Herrera. “And J. Crew is a huge com-pany, no? It speaks very well of her that she wants to include everyone.”

Well, not everyone, Carolina. Along with Herrera herself, names missing from this most prestigious wardrobe roster include Ralph, Calvin, Oscar, Marc, Vera, Tommy and Isaac, although Obama has worn Liz Claiborne. Even those of the Obamas-walk-on-water ilk would like to see that change. “I hope and believe that this is just a moment,” says Karan. “And I hope to be able to dress her, and not only dress her but address her, sit down — I’m interested in her to-

tality as a woman.” Ditto Wang. “I love seeing young designers and their

vision and how they grow and all of that,” she says. “On the other hand, of course, I wish she would consider some of us, because I think we also have contributions to make.”

Wang acknowledges the resonance of an association with Obama. “She represents modern womanhood, a brilliant, active woman and mother, because of her posi-tion, her beauty and her stature. She embodies America right now. She is the face of America.”

By extension, then, Obama’s choices represent what’s right, active and modern about American fash-ion, and her omissions — well, you get the idea.

While clearly any designer Obama wears gets to bask in the reflected glory, it’s not all one-way spar-kle. Despite the flood of accolades, Obama’s is a style in development, one that can sometime seem more forced practicality than innate polish. At the same time, she has succumbed to a moment or two of trying

too hard, such as Thursday’s unfortunate Junya-cum-Jason rhapsody in blue.

It is widely accepted that most, if not all, of Obama’s clothes go through Ikram Goldman of Chicago’s Ikram boutique, although the likes of Michael Kors, for in-stance, are from collections carried at the store. (An e-mail request to Goldman for an interview went un-answered.)

“I think Michelle Obama has a lot on her plate right now,” offers Karan. “I think there’s a lot of confidence that she has with the woman that she’s working with….I don’t think this is a thing that’s going to last forever. I think the doors are going to open up.”

For his part, de la Renta notes that, in recent his-tory, first ladies have always had direct contact with a designer, typically relying on one or two. He suggests that, designer or otherwise, Obama would benefit from expanding her current range of fashion advisers, partic-ularly on matters of protocol. “You don’t,” he declares definitively, “go to Buckingham Palace in a sweater.”

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For more on the Obamas, see WWD.com.

Donna Karan

Tommy Hilfiger

Vera Wang

Oscar de la Renta

Carolina Herrera

Marc Jacobs

Calvin Klein

6 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

The Beauty Report

Niche fragraNce marketer Le Labo is launching its first scent in three years, a fragrance called oud 27, which was introduced Wednesday.

the number 27 in the name of the scent is a ref-erence to the number of ingredients used to blend the fragrance. the project was a collaboration be-tween Le Labo’s founders fabrice Penot and eddie roschi and firmenich perfumer Vincent schaller.

it is described as a dark oriental and includes olfactive notes of agarwood, cedar, gaiac wood, patchouli and frank-incense. there’s also an accord of saf-fron, black pepper and nutmeg.

oud, which is a fungus that grows on agarwood trees in the middle east — and the name of a musical instrument of the lute family of asia and africa — lends a pungent, smoky aroma in combi-nation with agarwood.

“We wanted to develop an oriental scent that is a pure oriental,” said roschi during a recent interview. “Not because it has vanilla or is sweet but because we wanted something much darker.

“Pure agarwood smells dark, animalis-tic,” he continued, adding, “it’s an, offbeat interpretation of an oriental wood.”

the scent, which is Le Labo’s 11th major fragrance, will be available in a 3.4-oz. bottle for $200 and a 1.7-oz. version for $130. there will also be a .5-oz. travel size for $52.

Discussing the process of developing the fra-grance, Penot said, “it’s our first perfume in three

years — we worked on many formulas, and only [this] one deserves a space on our table.”

oud 27 will also come in a lotion form, 8 oz. for $60; a massage oil, 4 oz. for $60, and an alcohol-free balm, which is priced at $80 for a third of an ounce.

the addition of oud 27, which may do $500,000 in first-year retail sales volume, could help push the firm’s annual turnover past the $5 million mark

this year, according to industry sources.Le Labo is carried in about 10 to 15

doors in the U.s., europe and asia. its New York flagship is located at 233 elizabeth street, and the firm also has freestanding locations in Los angeles and tokyo. Penot and roschi are looking to open a free-standing location in Paris this year.

in terms of the wholesale business, the brand is carried at four barneys New York stores (New York, Dallas, Las Vegas and san francisco), and Penot expects it to reach barneys locations in chicago and Los angeles this year.

in europe, Le Labo is carried in up-scale specialty stores in London, Paris and berlin, and the founders anticipate open-ing doors in Dubai in april and australia in the fall.

in other news, the firm has partnered with an upscale laundry detergent brand

called the Laundress for a co-branded detergent that is priced at $45 for 16 oz. and was introduced Wednesday.

— Matthew W. Evans

JUst caLL it ProJect Victoria. Victoria’s secret beauty is overhauling its Very sexy color cosmetics assort-ment — and kicking that effort off with the first cosmetics project by “Project runway” winner christian siriano.

the collection — branded christian siriano for Vs makeup — is the opening salvo in the company’s august overhaul of its Very sexy color cosmetics collection, said shashi batra, president of Victoria’s secret beauty. Very sexy makeup, which will be rebranded as Vs makeup, launched in 2006.

“this is another layer over and above our basic fragrance-body care business,” said batra. “We have a significant make-up business, which has been growing without much effort. We believe there is a significant opportunity in this area to pay close attention to trends and layer a lot more customers onto the big base we already have.”

batra and other executives refused to discuss sales projec-tions for the color cosmetics assortment, although industry sources estimated the updated Vs makeup line could do $55 million to $60 million at retail in its first year on counter.

“We’ve freshened the line to be more comprehensive, with more shades and more finishes,” said Jean gordon, vice presi-

dent of brand develop-ment, noting that the redone collection will launch in august with 180 shades. “a big influ-ence comes from work-ing with professional makeup artists — like charlotte tilbury and Polly osmond during the New York fashion shows — and formu-lating professional yet easy to use cosmetics by tapping into their techniques. We’ve also listened to our consumers and broad-ened our shade range, so there are products for women of every shade.”

added Natalie ellis, senior vice president of brand de-velopment: “this line encompasses technol-ogy, updated packag-ing and great colors — and the best part is that everything is under $20.” the main line’s packaging has also been made over. compacts are ren-dered in black, with pink Victoria’s secret accents; other items are in clear tubes and jars with black tops and pink Vs ac-cents. each item is in a carton with either a peekaboo window or a full-color image.

Lip products are priced at $10 (lip liner) to $14 (lipstick); eye items from $10 for eyeliner to $18 for an eye shadow quad; face products from $12 for concealer to $20 for foundation, and tools from $2.50 for a pencil sharpener to $18 for a bronzer brush.

by contrast, siriano’s limited edition lineup will be priced slightly higher than the Vs main line. the collection includes five shades of eye shadow, each $14; black eyeliner, $12; three lip gloss shades, each $14; a bronzer-highlighter trio, $24; a face brush, $32, and a ruffled cosmetics bag, $16. siriano’s items will be packaged in gold compacts with the christian siriano for Vs makeup logo engraved on top.

siriano was chosen to do a limited edition collection be-cause “he’s really establishing a close following, and we think he resonates with our consumer,” gordon said. “his collec-tion for us coincides with some of the looks he’s doing for his fall apparel collection — the blue of the Nile, for instance.”

color cosmetics are available in about 700 of Victoria’s secret’s 1,000 stores, and online at victoriassecret.com.

batra is quick to point out siriano’s project won’t muscle heidi klum’s makeup aside. “heidi’s makeup has been a bestseller for us, and we will pulse those in as well,” he said. “We’re experimenting in various areas. that’s the advantage of being both the developer and the retailer.”

— Julie Naughton

Victoria’s Secret Beauty Takes Cue From ‘Project’

Le Labo’s Latest Effort: Oud 27

Christian Siriano for VS Makeup items.

Part of the revamped VS Makeup line.

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robiN coe-hUtshiNg, the qUeeN of West coast indie beauty retailing, is preparing to enter bloomingdale’s on 59th street, with her memoire Liquide bespoke Perfumery collection of mix and match fragrances.

the full organ setup, stocked with 75 scents, is scheduled to open april 14 and be fully operational by may 1. it will be located in the flagship’s new fragrance area.

coe-hutshing’s move will come on the heels of a complete reformatting of her retail base at fred segal in santa monica, calif. coe-hutshing and her sister, Jennifer coe-bakewell, set up shop there in 1984, and the 4,000-square-foot retail space has gone through a number of the incarnations.

in the latest move, coe-hutshing struck up a partnership with intermix capital. then the retailer, who is an ardent music fan, renamed her former studio at fred

segal as the new studio beautymix.the name is meant to denote a marriage of her

twin interests in cutting-edge retailing and in-novative brand development. the assortment at fred segal has always mixed the exotic with the offbeat and purely inviting — from the luxurious to the funky. While developing her own brands like the burn candle line and memoire Liquide, coe-hutshing has also merchandised lines like my blend, korres, creme de la mer and the Japanese cult shampoo komenuka bijin.

“We are interested in incubating nascent brands,” she said. “What we do that other people don’t do as well, i feel, is give them a home.”

in addition to serving as an incubator, coe-

hutshing also views the store as a launchpad for brands she intends to create and then send out through other distribution channels, including di-rect selling via tV and e-commerce. coe-hutshing also said she is interested in forming retail alli-ances, with other stores.

of the brands under development, two are on the runway. one is a ready mixed, ready-to-wear scents out of the memoire Liquide range. coe-hutshing said there will be six scents, the first five launched in the fall. the names of each — fleur Liquide, Vacances Liquide and soleil Liquide — are designed to help the customer attach memories to the ingredients in the formulas, or “lead people in a certain direction.”

there is also a body skin softening brand called soft corp. in addition to a skin softening product,

there will be a spray oil, a cream body wash, a rose tinted lip softener, a natural lip

shimmer and a whipped shave wash that will enable customers to shave and wash their legs at the same time. it will have the consistency of an old-fashioned men’s shaving cream. “it’s something i found lack-ing in my own business,” she ob-served. “it’ll be usable every day,”

she said, describing the pricing as “user friendly in the prestige range,

but not precious.”another line under development

is called Plant Lab, which, similar to memoire Liquide, will offer botanical-based

skin care that can be customized. also in the works is an outgrowth of one of the most popular memoire Liquide offerings. it will be a new fragrance called Nudite intense.

coe-hutshing declined to discuss the details of her partnership. but industry sources estimate that between the retailing, wholesaling and planned e-commerce site, the new venture could double in size from the present volume of about $3 million.

over the years, coe-hutshing has collected a fol-lowing of savvy shoppers.

“We have such an early adopter clientele,” coe-hutshing said, noting that with the collapse of the economy she had an opportunity. “if people aren’t going shopping, we can take the shopping to them.” so she took memoire Liquide on the road to her cus-tomers’ homes in a southern california update of tupperware parties. first, it was mixing fragrances at weddings and privates parties, then she added makeup artists, hairstylists and skin care experts. she has done 30 or 40 events in the last year.

“if the business is going to be on the frustrating side, we are going to be doing this,” she said. “it makes it easier for them and easier for us.”

— Pete Born

A New Mix: Coe-Hutshing & Bloomingdale’s

Memoire Liquide at Fred Segal.

Robin Coe-Hutshing

7WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009WWD.COM The Beauty Report WWD.COM

With neW scent ch carolina herrera, the designer and her daughter — and her fragrance licensee, Puig Beauty and Fashion group — are aiming to add a third pillar to an already large U.s. fra-grance business.

“this is an extremely strategic launch for Puig U.s.,” said didier Maine de Biran, general manager of Puig Usa. “the launch of ch will be key in positioning the carolina herrera fragrance brand in the U.s., aligning it with the fashion image and continuing to build momentum. We have therefore developed a selective distribution platform for the brand in order to most effectively launch and position ch, aligning ourselves with the global brand strategy.”

the herrera fragrance business in the U.s. currently has two main pillars: 212, which is new York-centered, and carolina herrera new York, which includes such scents as chic, explained Jose Manuel albesa, chief brand officer for Puig Beauty and Fashion group. ch carolina herrera, a counterpart to the apparel and accessory brand of the same name launched in 2001, is intended to be the third and potentially the largest pillar, he added.

the U.s. is the final market to get the scent, which was first launched in spain in late 2007. shortly thereafter, it rolled out to latin america, the Middle east and elsewhere in europe.

the reason? according to albesa, the fact that the herrera brand is Puig’s largest had much to do with it. “We chose to wait to introduce the ch fragrance in the U.s. because we were still building the ch [fash-ion and accessories] line’s distribution, and also because we wanted to have a good knowledge of the reaction to the fragrance in other markets before bringing it to carolina’s home market,” said albesa. “in spain, the fragrance remains in the top three; in the Middle east, it’s in the top 10, and it’s in the top 10 in russia. it is also doing extremely well in latin america. We are expecting great things from it in the U.s.”

and carolina herrera would have it no other way. “My daughter carolina and i are both perfectionists,” she said during an interview at her showroom earlier this week. “especially in this economic time, that is very important, whether you are talking about fashion or fragrance. if a dress is beautiful and isn’t finished properly, and it falls apart when you put it on, you won’t buy another one. if the fragrance bottle is beautiful but the fragrance itself doesn’t smell good or last, you won’t buy another bottle and the fragrance will not be a success. You can’t fool the customers.

that is why it is so important for the product to be perfect before we intro-duce it to the market.”

the two carolinas and Firmenich’s olivier crespe collaborated on the fragrance, which herrera Jr. says was inspired by many of the things she loved as a child while living at her family’s estate, la Vega, just outside caracas, Venezuela. “Bulgarian rose, praline — i wanted to create some-

thing that reminded me of the best parts of childhood,” she said. the scent has top notes of italian bergamot, grapefruit, sicilian lemon and melon; a heart of Bulgarian rose oil, sambac jasmine, orange blossom, praline and sri lankan cinnamon, and a drydown of sandalwood, cedar-wood, suede, cashmere, patchouli, amber and transparent musk.

the range includes eaux de toilette in two sizes — 1.7 oz. for $70 and 3.4 oz. for $90 — as well as a 200-ml. shower gel, $45, a $48 body lotion and a candle, $60.

the rounded bottle has a red leather sleeve embossed with the ch logo. the silver cap bears the ch initials, and a silver-toned charm on a red ribbon reinforces the brand name.

in the U.s., ch will be launched at nordstrom in July. it will be ex-clusive to the retailer for two months before entering the rest of its U.s. distribution in september. at full rollout, it will be in about 230 doors in the U.s., including saks Fifth avenue, Bloomingdale’s and neiman Marcus. in the U.s., coty distributes the scents.

Print advertising, shot by tim Walker, will begin running this fall — date to be determined — in fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. the image features models lisa cant and aaron Ward; cant is in a red herrera creation,

surrounded by fragrance bottles. “there is a sense of fantasy in the ads,” said herrera Jr. “Perfume should make you fly — that idea of over-the-top fantasy was in our minds when we were creating the ads.” Walker also shot a tV ad being used globally. to further enhance synergies between fashion and beauty advertising, Walker shot a fashion campaign at the same time as the beauty

ads, with 12 fashion shots and eight beauty shots to be used globally, said albesa.While none of the executives would discuss sales projections, industry sources

estimated ch carolina herrera could do $7 million to $10 million at retail in the U.s. in its first year on counter.

the herreras are already at work on a men’s counterpart to ch. “We will keep key el-ements like the leather accents,” said albesa. “We want to create a ch masterbrand.”

— Julie Naughton

Kiehl’s third aVenUe FlagshiP in Manhattan, Which oPened in 1851, has just completed a 21st-century overhaul.

still in its original space at 109 third avenue, the 1,560-square-foot store now sports a new gifting counter with elaborate carved detail, an extensive assortment of products that will be sold only in that door and an elaborate windowed time line, among other changes.

“this store is our graceland — the ultimate Kiehl’s store,” said chris salgardo, president of Kiehl’s Usa, noting that the store also had some overhauling done dur-ing a 2003 effort. “We wanted people to leave here with special merchandise and a feeling that they’d been on a journey with us.”

the gifting station was intended to appear as though it could have been installed in the early 1900s — with a surprising twist: the wood laser-engraved design is of an elaborate skull. “We got the idea from Mr. Bones, the teaching skeleton which aaron Morse, the second-generation Morse family member who ran Kiehl’s beginning in the sixties,” said salgardo, adding that Morse’s original skeleton is in the glassed-in time-line display. “he was extremely passionate about education, and often used the skeleton and other scientific equipment to explain things to his customers. it made perfect sense to us to incorporate that important motif into the gifting counter, too.”

at the gifting counter, consumers can put together personalized gifts — which are then further customized with boxes, tissue paper, shopping bags and all-white pot-pourri, all exclusive to the third avenue store. Morse’s love of flying has been reinforced with a 40 percent scale reproduction of a Pitts s 2a biplane Morse owned; even his extensive motorcycle collection — including a 1936 model originally owned by clark gable — has been incorporated into the store’s overhauled design. as well, the original 1851 store fixtures have been re-stored, and the exterior pharmacy sign has been re-created.

another section of the store showcases a host of flagship-only products. they include a lip balm with a sterling silver cap designed by lori leven of new York adorned, $90; a bathrobe with a white embroidered Kiehl’s logo, $95; a range of hair tools that range from a Pocket spike for $16.50 to a hair groomers hair Brush, $45, and even baby onesies for the littlest Kiehl’s fans, $20. if consumers buy the $40 flagship tote, they receive 5 percent off their purchases when they shop with it.

Most of all, salgardo wants the third avenue store to retain its local phar-

macy feel. “We’ve been here for 158 years, through the great depression,” he said. “We want people to feel like we’re their neighborhood store.” to that end, the store even holds monthly pet-adoption events, he said.

While salgardo refused to discuss sales figures, industry sources estimated the third avenue store does upwards of $9 million in retail sales yearly.

the overhauled store also includes limited edi-tions of the brand’s popular superbly restorative

argan Body lotion, with packaging designed by erykah Badu, adrien grenier, Kelly slater and Parsons the

new school for design students, $55 for 16 oz. all profits from the limited edition version of the lotions, which will hit counters on april 22, will be donated to Waterkeeper.

salgardo also showed off the brand’s new Marvelous Mineral Mascara, which has just hit counters. “acacia gum is used to thicken the lashes and keep the color from flaking, while minerals provide the color. it also includes aloe vera, jojoba oil and vitamin e, to stay true to our treatment roots.” available in black and black-brown, the mascara retails for $16.50. salgardo declined to dis-cuss sales projections for the mascara, although industry sources estimated it could do $3 million to $5 million in the U.s. in its first year on counter.

in addition to its 33 freestanding stores in the U.s., Kiehl’s is also sold in about 200 U.s. specialty stores.

— J.N.

Carolina Herrera Set for U.S. Launch of CH Scent

Kiehl’s Spiffs Up Flagship

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By Andrea Nagel

Spa Chakra may not ring a bell with many manhattan spa goers, but for those who call Cornelia Day resort their go-to for luxury spa services, the name will soon be quite familiar.

mike Canizales, chief executive offi-cer of new york-based Spa Chakra, took over Cornelia on Feb. 6 from its previ-ous owners, husband-and-wife team rick aidekman and ellen Sackoff, and will offi-cially rebrand the space as Spa Chakra on Fifth beginning may 1.

Canizales, like most in the spa indus-try, had been “watching the spa with in-terest” since it opened to much fanfare in February 2005.

but despite maintaining a flawless image — celebrities and socialites hus-tled to Cornelia for their famous facials, luxe body treatments and expansive roof-top lounge — cracks began to ap-pear when the spa’s founder, Cornelia Zicu, split from the firm in January 2007.

over the next two years, clientele re-mained steady, but one person who worked at Cornelia during this period said the work-place was “uncomfort-able” as management did not “understand the business.”

rick aidekman, an at-torney by trade and also a successful real estate inves-tor, explained that after hav-ing a very good July, august and September last year, where weekly sales averaged about $215,000, up from $60,000 during the spa’s first years, in october 2008 “the world changed.” Corporate parties, which made up about 15 percent of sales, disappeared, as did tourist visits, which comprised another 15 percent of business.

“between the two we were down about 25 percent in January and we didn’t feel the economy was coming back any time soon,” said aidekman.

in December, Canizales was contacted by the couple, who he said wanted to re-turn to their former careers.

the duo retain rights to the Cornelia essentials product range, which is sold on a variety of Web sites, including eluxury.com, as well as on QVC, and in a smatter-ing of hotels, including essex house and plaza athenee.

aidekman, who said he invested about $20 million of his own money in launching the 22,000-square-foot spa, its product com-pany and its trademarks, said running a five star spa is not for everyone. “When you

try to do five star, if one person sees [some-thing wrong] that’s one person too many. you need a very disciplined management, and frankly, we went through a lot of dif-ferent spa directors. We never got the right management team....the first few years it was difficult. We were on the eighth floor of an office building and that cost a lot of capital. When you are not known and not doing business it was hard to make money at no volume with a very expensive lease. but it was turning around. but then the re-cession happened.”

in February, the space, which remains wrinkle-free in appearance, took a new lease from the landlord and purchased certain assets from Cornelia Fifth avenue llC, which generates about $10 million in sales a year. over the next several weeks, a huge back-of-house transforma-tion will take place to bring the spa up to par with its luxurious reputation. Some of

the changes include expanding facials from 60 to 75 minutes without

a price increase, upping the food and beverage service by

partnering with a popular manhattan eatery, upgrad-ing linens and injecting a “spa journey” into the overall experience.

“this is a special place with a special team [but] that team came from a world-class beauty salon

approach,” said Canizales, who worked at microsoft

in the U.S. and australia for nine years before founding Spa

Chakra in 1998.his firm, said Canizales, deeply

researches its core customers’ psycho-graphics, which unveil their personalities, to best meet their needs, and targets two types of people — the socially aware and the highly affluent.

Spa Chakra on Fifth will become the firm’s flagship in new york; another lo-cation is planned midyear for 57th Street inside the 57 Club, a fractional hotel-res-idence space. Spa Chakra, which oper-ates 19 spas worldwide, is the brains and blueprint behind the guerlain Spa at the Waldorf astoria and blu mediterraneo Spa at london nyC as the firm partners with both beauty brands, owned by moët hennessy louis Vuitton. Canizales said in this financial climate, he estimates the new spa will maintain 2008 sales, but that sales should grow in future years.

the new partnership also means a healthy restart for David evangelista, who operates a 14-chair salon at Cornelia.

“it was a little ad hoc before,” said evangelista of the past several years. “the shoe fits now.”

8 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

SNIPPETS

Spa Chakra Takes Over Cornelia The Beauty Report

BOARD APPOINTMENT: Revlon Inc. has elected Ann Jordan as a new addition to its board, increasing the size of the board to 12 members, and the number of independent directors to eight. Jordan, 74, serves as a director of Catalyst Inc., a nonprofit organization for women’s business initiatives, and is an honorary trustee of the University of Chicago and The Brookings Institution — a nonprofit public policy organization in Washington. She is also the chairman of The National Symphony Orchestra, a trustee of the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, and formerly served as the director of the board for several public companies including Johnson & Johnson and Citigroup Inc.

BADGER MOVE: Jim Winters, formerly of the J Winters Group, has joined Badger & Partners as president, a new position. Madonna Badger continues in her position at the creative services agency she founded in 1994. Last year, Beautylab was added as an offshoot think tank. Winters has more than 20 years’ experience in branding and publishing, including stints at Vogue and Talk Media. He will focus on marketing strategy, brand positioning and business development in his new position, Badger said, while she will concentrate on design and creative development.

SCENTS SELL: Since its launch last fall, the Six Scents fragrance initiative has sold some 8,000 bottles. Although each of the fragrances created by fashion designers is selling strong, the bestsellers are by Gareth Pugh, Alexandre Herchcovitch and Cosmic Wonder Light Source. All the juices were concocted to raise funds for the Designers Against AIDS International AIDS Awareness Education center in Antwerp, Belgium. Six Scents is a collaboration among fragrance house Symrise, creative consultancy Metaproject and Seven New York.

IFF PROMOTION: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. has appointed Christophe de Villeplee to the newly created position of vice president of fine fragrance and beauty care worldwide. In his new role, de Villeplee will be responsible for developing and executing strategies in the fine fragrances and beauty care categories. He has also been charged with creating greater alignment across all functions and resources against strategic priorities worldwide, the company noted. De Villeplee has been with IFF for 10 years, most recently serving as vice president and region general manager for North American fragrances. He will continue to be based in New York.

TOP MOP: Visitors to Manhattan’s newly opened Topshop may walk out with a new spring ’do, as well. Erin Anderson, artistic director and co-owner of the Williamsburg, Brooklyn, salon and apothecary Woodley and Bunny will be on hand from 1 to 6 p.m. through Sunday to offer complimentary hairstyles at Topshop, located at 478 Broadway and Broome Street. Those who visit the pop-up styling bar can choose among the following three styles: Sleek and Straight (Glory Days), Waves (Miami) and Modern Twist Up-Do (Memphis).

H20 TAPS COLLI: H2O Plus, the maker of water-based, sea-derived skin care products, has named Bill Colli as senior vice president of sales and marketing. In this role, Colli will oversee the expansion of international and North American distribution. He will report to H2O Plus president and chief executive officer Bob Seidel. Prior to joining H20 Plus, Colli was at Procter & Gamble Co. as vice president of global sales for Frédéric Fekkai & Co. Before that, he held positions at Lancôme Paris.

LONDON — michelle Feeney is glowing — and it’s not because of the plethora of self-tanning products she haphazardly tested on her arms earlier in the afternoon. the beauty executive is keyed up as she believes the overhaul of tanning brand St. tropez, which she has spearheaded since 2007, is starting to deliver perceptible results.

“We’re a proper brand now,” Feeney said, gesturing to revamped prod-uct packaging and upcoming product launches. and the changes aren’t just visible. “When i first came to the brand i did a study and asked what were the issues we need to improve to make our products great for our custom-ers,” she recalled. “Smell was one of the major drawbacks. it was a barrier to purchase.”

last month, the nottingham, england-based brand relaunched its lineup with pumped-up fragrance technology said to virtually eliminate the telltale odor associated with self-tanning products.

to banish the whiff, St. tropez uses aromaguard technology, developed by fragrance house Cpl aromas, which is said to diminish the smell emit-ted once products come into contact with the skin.

“Within the self-tan product, the tanning agent — Dha — reacts with the proteins and amino acids in the top area of the skin. part of the reaction gives the brown color but also there are side reactions going on. Some side reactions give that distinctive meat-y or biscuit-y smell,” explained tim Whiteley, global research and development director at Cpl aromas. “We were able to analyze and identify key molecules being generated and use aromaguard technology to counteract the buildup of those materials.”

in addition, a fragrance blend was created including molecules that bind to receptor sites in the nose, which otherwise would accept malodorous ones. the scent comprises notes of iris root, fresh fruits and violet.

as reported, St. tropez’s lineup is also sporting streamlined packaging featuring pared down graphics and simplified descriptors in addition to the new fragrance.

product innovations are also meant to up the ante for the brand. key items include perfect legs, which is sold as a double-barrel bottle compris-ing gradual self tanner in one chamber and an instant tanner in the other, the idea being the products can be used separately or in tandem. Sources estimate the item, which will retail at $41 at current exchange, will ring up retail sales in the region of $6.9 million in the U.k. in its first year. other new launches include everyday mousse priced at $27.60; body butter sell-ing for $20.70, and Shower Cream, which comes with a $13.80 price tag.

makeup products are also in the pipeline for June. priced at between $34.50 and $48.40, the lineup includes bronzing rocks, chunks of shimmer-ing bronzing powder; bronzing mousse and bronzing powder. Sun protec-tion products are also in the works for 2010.

St. tropez, which generates annual retail sales of $69 million to $80 mil-lion, bowed in eight nordstrom spas last month and is in the process of relaunching its U.S. and U.k. e-tailing websites. the brand will also make its QVC debut in the U.S. in april with two one-hour shows.

“it’s a huge litmus test for how the brand is going to succeed,” said Feeney.— Brid Costello

St. Tropez Adds Stores And Blends New Scent

Mike Canizales

St. Tropez items.

9WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

By Molly Prior

A virtuAl door hAs opened for beAuty brAnds: the luxury sample sale e-tailer Gilt Groupe.

over the last 15 months, Gilt has built its invitation-only, e-commerce business by linking arms with high-end accesso-ries and ready-to-wear brands — diane von furstenberg, vera Wang and Chloé, to name a few — and has since expanded to the children’s and home categories. Gilt offers its members — which number more than 800,000 shoppers — goods at up to 70 percent off the retail price during sales that last 36 hours.

now, Gilt is considering adding beauty as its fifth pillar. Gilt first dabbled in beauty last month, hosting a perricone

Md Cosmeceuticals sale and, on March 27, offering smashbox Cosmetics. the private equity firm tsG Consumer partners — which tends to favor beauty brands sold in high-growth re-tail channels, such as tv retailing and the internet — invests in perricone and smashbox. A spokeswoman for smashbox said the cosmetics company’s sale was a trial run. perricone could not be reached for comment.

Gilt’s co-founder and chief market-ing officer, Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, said of the company’s approach to expansion, “last summer, we slowly eased into the children’s and home decor categories. We did subtle test-ing to see if there was an appetite for them.” As for beauty, Wilson said, “We are getting our feet wet, but everything we’ve found so far indicates that there’s interest” from the Gilt shopper. the e-tailer has a dedicated beauty buyer — nadine iskenderian is Gilt’s director of beauty — and is actively scouting pres-tige beauty brands, said Wilson. she noted that after the smashbox sale, the company received about 10 e-mails from interested beauty firms.

Consumers have already shown their willingness to shop for beauty online.

in 2008, health and beauty products accounted for 3.6 per-cent, or $4.7 billion, of total retail e-commerce spending of $130.1 billion, according to dig-ital tracking firm Comscore.

Wilson said Gilt will approach beauty in the same way it has the rtw and accessories businesses. lines that are a fit for Gilt are “the types of brands in high-end depart-ment stores. We need the price points to be high enough for the sale to be meaningful to the customer.”

for beauty, that may mean bundling products together, as Gilt did for the smashbox sale. for instance, a Masters Class brush collection housed in a metallic case sold for $45, down from the retail price of $89, and a bare beauty Kit, consisting

of two lip glosses and a face powder, sold for $26, down from $54.

Given the tough retail and eco-nomic climate, Gilt’s approach may be even more palatable to prestige beauty firms, which, prior to the past holiday season, have long ab-stained from discounting. “these challenging times are forcing brands to think outside the box,” said Wilson. “We have strong integ-rity and we make our decisions with the brand. the brand is in full con-trol of the sale.”

As for when more beauty brands will hit the site, she said, “you are going to see more and more beauty as the weeks go by. We have great brands in the pipeline.”

NEW YORK — At a time when many beauty companies are struggling to stay in business, one cosmetics firm is celebrat-ing its 20-year anniversary.

Cosmetic promotions inc., a business providing demon-strators, training and other marketing tools to the mass beau-ty industry, marks the milestone with fresh ideas to keep growing in tough economy times. “i’ve seen so many changes in the years i’ve been in the business,” said company founder and chief executive officer Joann tyson. “but the good news for my business is that when times are tough, companies look for ways to boost their business. our clients need us more as staffs get cut and they need their sales to go up — so they turn to us to help them. When times are good there is more money for marketing.”

Cosmetic promotions, she said, especially helps vendors concentrate on na-tional campaigns while her firm can tackle customized marketing programs for each retail chain. A few ex-amples include a fragrance modeling event at 400 J.C. penney Co. inc. stores (each four-hour event averaged sales of more than 17 piec-es of products) or the rite Aid Corp.’s Glam Camp where product samples are delivered into teenag-ers’ hands at community events across the country. Cosmetic promotions is also called upon for staff demonstrations at store opening events.

years ago, tyson recalled, companies turned to her to cre-ate premiums for gifts with purchase. then in-store demon-strations became more popular, especially with new launch-es. recently, the economy has prompted a small downturn in demonstrations, but she’s offset that with sample boxes of new items shipped directly into one chain’s stores to introduce beauty advisors to the new items. “i am always thinking of new ideas to help manufacturers and retailers,” tyson added.

now, to take advantage of her cadre of more than 1,000 makeup artists and models, she’s opening up her services to other product lines such as beverages. “i have great people who know the industry, so why not extend our services,” she explained. she added that 89 percent of first-timer purchases

are the result of a trial or sample. “our in-store events typically sell one week’s worth of products in four hours,” tyson said.

While venturing into other sample-friendly categories, beauty remains her focus and the reason she started her business. in her teens, she worked applying makeup to models and behind a beauty counter at sears. After college,

she worked in the business with Almay and then nat robbins as a national sales

manager. it was at Almay the seed was planted for Cosmetic promotions, after she created a successful end-cap deal with eckerd drug. her first task at Cosmetic promotions was to spearhead a newsletter for then-drugstore chain powerhouse revco. it was while working on the

newsletter that she struck up a part-nership with retail beauty executive

Judy Wray, who continues to tap tyson’s creative juices now that Wray is at rite Aid.

rite Aid, in fact, is a big client and one that has found a unique way to keep demon-strations in store alive by get-ting vendors to share a makeup artist. for example, a program to introduce consumers to new items at rite Aid features dem-onstrations of four noncompet-ing brands who share the cost of the demonstrator. Although drug chains are the heart and soul of Cosmetic promotions business, the company has branched into food chains such as heb and mass merchants in-cluding Kmart holding Corp.

“it seems like yesterday we started the business. i can’t believe it is 20 years. i’ve seen brands come and go, like Clarion and the Cutex polishing pen. now pens are back and so much better. i miss the chains that are gone like K&b,” tyson recalled. “but the one thing that is impressive is how smart consumers are today. you can’t tell them a product can get rid of wrinkles. they are too smart and they use the internet to research everything.”

When questioned if a new line can launch successfully in the business today, she pointed to yes to Carrots. “if you have a fabulous product with a point of difference, you can make it. Just when you think there’s no room in skin care comes along a product like yes to Carrots,” tyson said.

Men’s personAl CAre brAnd body tools inc. has widened its face care range with the launch of five new treatment products.

And things have gotten off to a quick start for the newest products from the riverside, Calif-based brand, which markets hair, face and body items.

the quintet of men’s products have so far registered $75,000 in retail sales after a rollout to 60 doors in the u.s. that began a little more than two months ago.

“We’ve had a face moisturizer and face and body wash,” said Al Wines, a cofound-er of the five-year-old brand, “but nothing deep cleansing or gently cleansing.”

the range includes Moisturizing face Cleanser, $19 for 8 oz., which em-ploys macadamia and jojoba extracts as well as vitamins A and e. the face and body scrub, also $19 for 8 oz., uses jojoba beads and oil and aloe vera to soothe the skin.

the line’s deep Cleansing Mask, $23 for 4 oz., has magnesium hydrox-ide, for its purported antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. the beta hydroxy Acid deep Cleansing lotion, $21 for 8 oz., contains a 2 percent sali-cylic acid concentration for deep pore cleansing and to help soften dry skin.

rounding out the line is the alcohol-free skin recovery toner, $14 for 4 oz., which uses glycering to balance the skin and allantoin as an anti-irritant. “it won’t burn after shaving,” said Wines.

he estimated that in their first year on the market the five products could ring up $200,000 in retail sales volume.

the full body tools assortment now includes 25 items with the additional facial treatment products. prices range from $14 for the toner to $59.50 for the 16-oz. Citrus body Armor — an spf 15 product designed to protect the skin with a high concentration of vitamins e and C, retinyl palmitate and alpha lipoic acid.

the body tools brand is carried at venues such as Apothia fred segal, and spas and resorts like the four seasons in Maui and Atlanta.

— Matthew W. Evans

A promotion created by Cosmetic Promotions.

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newest items.

PerriconeMD Cosmeceuticals appeared on Gilt.com in March.

Body Tools ExpandsFace Care Offerings

Luxury E-tailer Gilt Groupe Flirts With Adding Beauty Pillar

The Beauty Report WWD.COM

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10 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

Eva Scrivo Opens Salon on West Side The HBA Report WWD.COM

Opening a salOn On Manhattan’s West side was supposed to have come months earlier for hairstylist and makeup artist eva scrivo. and this past tuesday, the day her new Meatpacking District space opened to the public, scrivo wasn’t focusing on setbacks.

But it was hard not to notice the woman appears to have luck on her side.

Just five days after opening her bus-tling noho salon on 50 Bond street one year ago, her hudson street outpost suf-fered extreme water damage from a fire during business hours. Clients at hudson street at the time of the blaze, some of whom were midservice, were shipped down to Bond street to complete their treatments. Overnight, Bond street be-came a destination salon rather than a neighborhood spot, especially without a West side space to accomodate neighbor-hood residents.

Unfortunate circumstances aside, scrivo, and her husband/business part-ner, arik efros, are overjoyed that despite the economy they have the funds (an es-timated $1 million was spent to build the new space) and a client base to warrant opening a salon during these times. From one year ago this month, the Bond street salon increased business 20 percent. the new salon is expected to generate about $2 million in first-year sales.

their success, which is fueled by an extremely loyal clientele, has the duo con-stantly dreaming up ways to reward the people who make their business profitable and worthy of expansion. their most recent initiative is a Vip membership, where customers can preorder services and in exchange receive a host of freebies, in-cluding weekly blowouts, and access to the new salon’s 750-square-foot Vip lounge, which has a movie screen and projector and can be used for private parties and gatherings. gold and platinum memberships are available, for $5,000 and $10,000,

respectively. so far close to 100 member-ships have been sold.

in addition to the lounge, the second-story, 5,000-square-foot salon includes 13 chairs in the cutting room, four chairs in a private color room, a five-sink wash-ing station, a manicure and pedicure area, as well as an office. the space was transformed from an old warehouse that housed artist studios and now features beamed ceilings, original columns, dark wood floors and chain-mail curtains that were recovered from a bank in Detroit, where scrivo hails. the customer wait-ing area looks onto a makeup station and retail space, with brands such as shu Uemura and t. leClerc, as well as scrivo’s self-designed hats and headbands.

scrivo attributes her success to a com-bination of factors, including her staff of 30, and to creating a space with a distinct, un-salon feel.

“i am an un-salon kind of person. i don’t think [typical salons] have great design. they have noisy chatter. and it’s not usually conducive to great haircuts,” said scrivo.

Most of the salon’s stylists will split their time between the two locations. new stylists as well as graduating assistants from the salon’s training program will sup-plement the staff.

at this week’s unveiling of the new space, scrivo also shared some other re-cent news, including her book deal with atria, an endeavor that looks to inform women on topics ranging from hair care to makeup to fashion and fitness. “[Beauty] is a learned skill within the grasp of every woman,” said scrivo. she also talked about her recent spokesperson deal with Wella, a partnership that aims to make the brand more consumer driven. “at some point, customers will be able to ask for their color by name.”

— Andrea Nagel

By Holly Haber

the hanDs are the next frontier for natura Bisse, which in March rolled out an antiaging hand cream in the U.s.

“We are always researching the market in all countries, and hand treatments are a growing business in medi-spas,” said gerardo gomez, national opera-tions manager for natura’s U.s. division in irving, tex. “people are worried about the aging of the hands. like our other tensolift products, this is a non-surgical alternative.”

tensolift hand Cream is de-signed to lighten age spots, mois-turize and soften skin. its active ingredients are hyaluronic acid to plump skin and daisy extract to dissolve spots along with col-lagen and elastin bio-peptides and amino acids, mango and shea butter and spF 15. at $105 for 3 oz., it complements the com-pany’s tensolift neck Cream and inhibit-tensolift antiaging fa-cial serum.

the Barcelona-based com-pany has high hopes for the cream and expects it to account for 3 percent of sales in the U.s. its first year, he said. natura sells to neiman Marcus, Barneys new York and 60 independent stores in the U.s.

“We are pushing sales through independents and hiring more people to handle that channel,” gomez noted. “We plan to double the number of independent accounts this year.”

the company, which has 11 lines comprising 80 treat-ment products, will begin international distribution of the hand cream in two months to doors in europe, asia, Mexico, the Middle east and Japan. natura’s global re-tail sales are around $105 million.

next up is a cleanser and toner to work with the Cure, an antiaging moisturizer that was introduced last august. the launches are planned for May.

“We thought the Cure would eat some of the Diamond extreme [moisturizer] business, but it hasn’t,” gomez said.

the Cure is $190 and Diamond extreme, natura’s premium face cream, is $318.

By Rachel Brown

COlOrMetriCs is OFFering a neW WeapOn to combat gray roots for women who have been forced to stretch the time between salon visits to save money.

touchBack by ColorMark has been designed to distribute temporary hair dye through a marker for touch-ups. the product, priced at $24.95 for .27 oz. and available in eight shades, will launch for a month-long exclusive on QVC in June before being sold via television commercials.

“everyone who tries the product says, ‘Oh, my god, where has this been? You’ve really solved a problem,’ ” said Joan lasker, founder and chief exec-utive officer of santa Fe, n.M.-based ColorMetrics. “Women, especially working women, want their hair to look perfect all the time. now, it’s especial-ly important because it could be for job interviews.”

lasker, formerly vice presi-dent of corporate public rela-tions at l’Oréal and a beauty editor at Vogue, has been perfecting the touchBack by ColorMark marker for some 10 years. getting the angle, size and fiber content of the marker, which has a half-inch tip that’s four times larger than a conven-tional marker, just right to prop-erly deliver the correct dose of color was the breakthrough. “We could now run a Magic Marker factory,” lasker joked.

in 2003, while lasker was still revising the mark-er, ColorMetrics released ColorMark, priced at $21.95 for .15 oz., with a soft-tip applica-tor for temporary hair dye (a similar product called hairMarker is sold at sally Beauty,) and streekers, priced at $10.95 for .34 oz., with temporary bright colors that are easily washed out. ColorMark and streekers are carried in roughly 5,000 and 1,000 salon and specialty retail doors, respectively, includ-ing Ulta, pureBeauty and BeautyFirst.

recent ColorMark accomplishments have con-vinced lasker of the mounting demand for temporary

hair-color solutions. “it is turning into a recession product,” she said, pointing out that wholesale sales of ColorMark were up 28 percent in the first quarter over the same period a year ago, and 5,000 ColorMark pieces sold during a recent six-minute stint on QVC. although the results from ColorMark and touchBack by ColorMark are comparable, lasker said women with more gray preferring wetter application meth-ods would likely choose ColorMark.

touchBack by ColorMark’s initial distribution distinguishes it from ColorMark. a 60-second televi-sion commercial that directs viewers to touchBack by ColorMark’s Web site, touchbackgray.com, is slated to air in major cities starting July 1. Created by Barbara Wadkins productions, the commercial

features five people offering testimonials about the product. lasker appears in a two-minute commercial that may air if the sixty-second version succeeds.

“We recognized the potential of tV advertising because it’s so easy to demonstrate,” explained lasker, referring to touchBack by ColorMark. she estimated first-year sales of the product would be from $5 million to $6 million and said broader retail distribution could be an option once touchBack by ColorMark has been “on the market for a little bit.” ColorMetrics, owned by lasker and her husband, ColorMetrics chairman and chief financial officer robert sobel, former chairman of emery roth & sons architects, has reached annual sales of nearly $10 mil-lion, according to lasker.

ColorMark and touchBack by ColorMark have four pat-ents, which are indicative of

ColorMetrics’ drive to innovate in order to carve out a differentiated niche in the hair color space. “i can’t compete with the l’Oréals and Clairols on products for colored hair if they are the usual,” said lasker. “after six years, we continue to have the only temporary touch-up made with real hair color. Our patents are holding.…the other products, because they are not real hair color, they don’t bond to hair. Because ours is real hair color, it is actually bonding to the hair.”

Roots Mark the Spot for TouchBack Hands on for Natura

The TouchBack root marker.

Natura Bisse’s newest

item.

Scrivo in her new salon.

WWD.COM

By Marcy Medina

BEVERLY HILLS — Valentino’s star never seemed brighter.As red double-decker tour buses and stretch limos glided through

the intersection of Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way here Thursday, Valentino stood at the base of the cobblestone Via Rodeo to be hon-ored as the 13th recipient of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award.

Anne Hathaway introduced the designer, recalling the time she has spent with him in the last three years since they met during the filming of “The Devil Wears Prada,” in which Valentino had a cameo as himself.

“Shortly after that, I was invited to be his date at a gala,” Hathaway said. “I knew it would be a great challenge to be perfect in Valentino for Valentino. At my first fitting, I put the dress on backwards. Luckily there were strategically placed sequins.” She singled out his “bright eyes of a dreamer, his curiosity, strength and fervor.”

Upon presenting him with the Robert Graham designed “Torso” statuette, Hathaway said, “Because of his friendship and influence on me, I am a Valentino creation.”

Valentino stepped to the podium, saying, ”I am completely drunk with compliments. In my long career, I have more or less refused other people saying nice things about me, but now that I am older, I accept this.”

He said Beverly Hills is “a city very much responsible for me be-coming a fashion designer.” As a child, Valentino was captivated by Hollywood’s stars, and when he began to open stores, Rodeo Drive was at the top of his priority list. “Today, it’s the most important fashion street in the world. Maybe one day I’ll be back to get another prize.”

The presentation — Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Manolo Blahnik are among previous Walk of Style recipients — capped a two-day whirl-wind for the designer. On Wednesday, the Matt Tyrnauer-directed docu-mentary “Valentino: The Last Emperor” had its West Coast premiere at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Guests included Ford, Joan Collins, James Galanos, Rita Wilson and several of Valentino’s one-time models, such as Janice Dickinson and Kelly Lynch.

“I have watched every collection for the last 32 years and there has never been a bad one,” Dickinson said. “He’s a genius. I own several Valentinos and putting them on just changes you. You be-come ultrachic and ultrafeminine.”

“Part of my mission tonight is to talk him into working again,” Lynch said. “He cannot retire. An era is over, and it’s some of the greatest things I’ve ever worn.”

In Valentino’s creations, “I feel like I am wearing a piece of armor, and I feel protected and stronger,” Hathaway said. “When you put something on like that it makes you do all the things you are supposed to do: stand a little straighter and feel a little proud-er and smile a little bigger.”

Hathaway said she begged Valentino to come out of retire-ment to design her Oscar dress. He didn’t, and the actress wore Armani, but she said, “I think now that he is retired we appre-ciate him that much more.”

Although Valentino said he misses designing the collec-tions, he has moved on. “I have very beautiful life, thank God, and what I am going to do now is some costumes for the opera.”

WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009 11

Energie to Offer Eyewear

Prada to Open Second Unit in Madrid

Italian Home Furnishings Brand Skitsch Launches

Tom Ford’s Aim: Making Changes In Asia Business

Valentino Shines on Rodeo Drive

For more Valentino photos, see WWD.com.

MADRID — Prada will launch its second Madrid store today on the Calle Serrano, a shopping thoroughfare with other brands like Carolina Herrera, Loewe, Cartier and Zara.

The new location — around the corner from the original Prada space soon to house men’s wear only — carries a full range of women’s wear, handbags, luggage, shoes and fragrances.

“Opening a new store in critical times sends a very positive message that we strongly believe in our product,” a spokeswoman said. “Today’s customer is

more focused on where to spend the money she or he has, because there is money out there.

“The Spanish market is increasingly more im-portant. We needed to give our clients a bigger space and more opportunity [to buy]. The new store is on a par with Milan and Paris,” she explained.

Designed by Italian architect Roberto Baciocchi, the two-floor, roughly 5,382-square-foot locale features Prada’s signature “green concept” with beige carpeting, chrome and glass.

— Barbara Barker

By Luisa Zargani

MILAN — The economy isn’t bringing everything to a standstill.

Renato Preti, former chief executive officer of private equity fund Opera, founded together with Bulgari in 2000, is launching a design brand called Skitsch with a group of Italian entrepreneurs. “Some may question the timing, but there are many oppor-tunities in this sector,” said Preti during a press con-ference at the Bulgari Hotel here Tuesday.

He said customers are looking for less os-tentatious products, opting for feel-good pieces rather than flashy cars or jewels. “The demand for contemporary aesthetics is growing, the plea-sure to surround oneself with contemporary ob-jects strengthened by the crisis and there is only a limited offer,” said Preti.

Furniture, accessories such as candles, home fragrances and other objects for the home and of-fice will be created by an initial group of 27 inter-national designers, ranging from Maarten Baas to Xavier Lust, Marc Sadler to Joost van Bleiswijk, under the artistic supervision of Cristina Morozzi.

“Design objects are usually either too strange or too functional. We are looking for balance and a com-prehensive offer,” said Preti, whose career includes stints at Opera-controlled home furnishings compa-ny B&B Italia and outdoor furniture firm Unopiù.

The company behind Skitsch is called Di Disegno SpA. With an investment of up to 12 mil-

lion euros, or $15.5 million at current exchange, Skitsch expects sales of 5 million euros, or $6.4 million, in the first year, and revenues of 50 mil-lion, or $64.5 million, in five years.

Others involved in the project include Alberto Bombassei, vice president of Italy’s Industrialists Association, Confindustria, and president and ceo of Brembo SpA, a leading group in the production, design and marketing of brake systems. The company has also taken con-trol of home furnishings brand Dovetusai, whose products will be part of Skitsch’s catalogue.

Skitsch will debut on April 21 during Milan’s international furniture and design exhibi-tion, the Salone del Mobile, with the opening of its first store. The 6,480-square-foot flagship will boast 13 windows in the centrally located Via Monte di Pietà, 11, a few steps away from the Bulgari Hotel and Via Montenapoleone. The store, in wood, glass, concrete and brass, with touches of blue, was designed by Luca Bombassei, partner and founder of Blast Architects in Milan, Venice and Abu Dhabi.

The products will mostly be made in Italy, except for specific categories such as rugs from India, crystal from Bohemia, and porcelain from Poland. Distribution will include Skitsch’s own stores, catalogues and e-commerce. “In this indus-try, distribution is very fragmented, the experience of shopping is not fun or stimulating, often with delayed deliveries and little service,” said Preti.

TOKYO — Tom Ford International has made changes to its Asia busi-ness, forming a new retail opera-tion and ending its partnership with Lane Crawford in the region,

industry sources said.The label has

formed Tom Ford Retail Japan and hired Mark Prendergast, former vice-president of Lane Crawford Joyce Group,

as its chief ex-ecutive officer.

Prendergast will be based in Tokyo

and hold the same title at Tom Ford Asia Pacific, which oversees business in the region.

A spokeswoman for the label in London declined comment.

The contract with Lane Crawford expired Tuesday and has not been renewed. However, the retailer will continue to operate the Tom Ford store at Lane Crawford Hong Kong. It will not be overseeing any new stores in the region, as had been originally planned.

The only other store opened under the old partnership — the Tom Ford store in Osaka — is now directly controlled by Tom Ford.

— Amanda Kaiser; Samantha Conti,

London

By David Lipke

MEn’S DEnIM BRAnD EnERGIE WILL LAUnCH ITS first eyewear collections at retail in May, offering both oph-thalmic and sunglass styles.

Licensed to Vecellio Occhiali, which is based in the Veneto region of Italy, the first offering includes 12 ophthalmic styles and six sunglass styles, retailing from $120 to $188.

“This new launch…represents Energie’s natural evolution toward a total-look offer,” said Renato Rossi, chief executive officer and co-founder of Sixty Group SpA, parent company of Energie and its sibling brands Miss Sixty and Killah, among oth-ers. “As with its clothing line, the Energie glasses collection is unpredictable and innovative and pays attention to details.”

The collection includes classic frames in Seventies and Eighties shapes in acetate or metal, with contempo-rary flourishes such as bold screen printing, perforation or rubber details. The frames are made in Italy.

The sunglasses will be distributed in Energie stores worldwide next month, in addition to select specialty stores. There are 14 full-price Energie stores in the U.S. and 225 stores internationally. The ophthalmic frames will be distributed in optical shops.

After this debut eyewear collection, the subsequent offering will grow to 18 styles of ophthalmic frames and 18 styles of sunglass frames.

In addition, Energie has signed hip English duo Philip Colbert and Richard Ascott, better known as Rodnik Band, to create a capsule collection of men’s wear that will debut at re-tail this holiday season. Rodnik Band has generated a measure of fashion-world buzz with their music (they are sometimes joined by Peaches Geldof on songs), visual art and a women’s collection launched during new York Fashion Week in 2006.

The capsule collection will encompass men’s denim, sweat-ers, shirts and blazers. Before that launch, the pair has a line of custom T-shirts under the Rodnik Band for Energie label that will be sold in key U.S. Energie stores beginning April 15.

WWDMen’s

The ophthalmic and sunglass frames will retail

for $120 to $188.

Anne Hathaway, Valentino, Gwyneth Paltrow and Tom Ford.

Below: Giancarlo Giammetti and Valentino.

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12 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

New York hasN’t seeN a retail opeNiNg like this in years.

the long-awaited unveiling of topshop-topman on thursday went off with an extended

flourish as a queue of about 500 predominantly pretty Young things wrapped clear around three

city blocks. they screamed, they yelled — some had even skipped school to witness the event. others had been waiting since 7:45 for the 11 a.m. opening. No doubt the waiting was somewhat alleviated by topshop staffers distributing cheese

biscuits and water to everyone, while neighboring Madewell had set up a coffee stand.“this is it,” said topshop owner Sir Philip Green,

upon which he and Kate Moss (who seemed the most anxious of all, biting her nails) stepped up to the giant silk screen that concealed them from the crowd awaiting outside. as it lifted, there was a roar and a shower of confetti. Moss seemed to loosen up, mugging for the photographers in her green chiffon gown — and leather Barker jacket for some edge — from the collection she designs for the retailer.

“this is exciting. it’s great,” green said. Just a little later, he was seen hugging Steven Roth, chairman and chief executive officer of Vornado realty trust, which provided the 40,000-square-foot site at 478 Broadway. asked if he plans to provide a second location for topshop, roth

replied, “For sure. For sure.” he declined to specify where that might be, but one real possibility is 34th street, where Vornado owns much property.

“i’ve never been to topshop, but i’m always shopping it online,” said twentysomething sophie london, who said she waited an hour and a half to get in, and like many surrounding her, had been intensely curious to see the British-based topshop’s first U.s. emporium. her conclusion: “it looks awesome.”

twenty-five-year-old erica said she waited since 8 a.m. to get in. “i love fashion. i love topshop,” she explained.

the controlled chaos was little surprise considering green had marshaled all the hype he could for the store, holding not one but three parties to mark the opening. as to why there were three, the question was answered by the clothing honcho’s speech on wednesday night at the second bash. in front of a crowd at Balthazar that included Jennifer Lopez, kate Moss, Marc Jacobs and fellow billionaires Ron Perelman and Steve Wynn, green brandished a New York City permit. “this piece of paper came this evening and actually is the permit that finally allows us to open the store. it’s only cost us 24 million three hundred thousand dollars,” he announced to applause. “it’s going in a frame. and i’m going to send it to Mayor Bloomberg and say, ‘thanks very much.’”

if there’s something seemingly anachronistic about a retailer throwing this many soirees in 2009, at least what it’s selling is au courant, pointed out Kelly Klein. “i’ve been waiting for this store to open for two years,” she said while perusing the goods on offer before dinner. “i think they are opening at exactly the right time. these are the clothes we all want to buy right now. it’s cool and young — and cheap.”

in another corner, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld picked up a new feathered miniskirt. “it’s so cute that i’m sure everyone got it,” she said, raising perhaps the only concern that americans expressed about the arrival of the brand. “it used to be that no one would be able to get the clothes because they were in england. Now everyone will be able to get them,” pointed out one fashion editor.

Meanwhile, lopez and Marc Anthony got their own tour of the four-floor store. it was only lopez’s second time in a topshop, but she had caught the fever. “i love it. it’s amazing,” she said.

at the dinner afterward, she and Moss made fast friends. they grabbed a corner seat, quickly joined by Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone. Meanwhile, Daphne Guinness professed to being a topshop fan despite her penchant for couture. “i go with my daughter to buy t-shirts, miniskirts, shorts, slacks — everything.” (the Brit fashion plate spent much of the rest of the evening canoodling with hotelier André Balazs.)

after plates were cleared, Sharon Jones and the Dap-kings gave a rollicking performance that had Alexander Wang, Zoe Kravitz, Rosario Dawson and Veronica Webb bopping on their banquettes. then Jennifer Hudson took the mic. if she was paid for her appearance (a rumored $130,000), she earned every penny. “they don’t make the [shopping] bags big enough at topshop,” she said. “i always end up spending too much money. if i could be there tomorrow, i would,” she continued. “i’d be all up in that topshop.”

as she sang, she spotted lopez and anthony. “oh, i didn’t see y’all there,” she said, before trying to convince them to sing a few notes of Aretha Franklin’s hit “something he Can Feel.”

“kate can sing,” shouted lopez as Moss hid behind her hands.

“get up Jennifer, i’m asking you,” said hudson. “give us something we can feel.” the diva acquiesced and hit a note so high that it got everyone out of their seats and shouting.

the evening ended with a standing ovation after hudson got the whole too-cool-for-school fashion crowd to sing along to her hits, “love You i Do,” as well as “and i am telling You, i’m Not going.”

— David Moin and Elisa Lipsky-Karasz

For video and more images of the scene at the Topshop opening, see WWD.com.Over the Top

Sir Philip Green and Harvey Weinstein

Rosario Dawson in Monique Lhuillier.

Kelly Klein in Kate Moss for Topshop and Alexander Wang.

Kelly Klein in Kate Moss for Topshop and Alexander Wang.

Kate Moss in her own design for Topshop with Jennifer Lopez in L'Wren Scott.

s Daphne Guinness in Jasmine Di Milo.

s Genevieve Garner in Topshop with Chloe Green in Kate Moss for Topshop.

Genevieve Garner in Topshop with Chloe Green in Kate Moss for Topshop.

13WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009WWD.COM

FASHION SCOOPSVeronica Webb, Lorenzo Martone and Marc Jacobs.

Jennifer Hudson in Topshop with James Blunt.

Lily Donaldson

Kate Moss on opening day in her own design

for Topshop.

Kate Moss on opening day in her own design

for Topshop.

Eager shoppers line up down the block.

Perusing the sundresses.Perusing the sundresses.

Finally!

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Julia Restoin-Roitfeld in a Kate Moss for Topshop dress and Topshop jacket with

Poppy Delevingne in Topshop.

A SWISS ACCOUNT?: Could Christian Lacroix be zeroing in on new investors? According to sources, Lacroix’s owner, Florida-based Falic Group, is in advanced discussions with a group of investors from Switzerland. The likelihood of a deal could not be learned, but it is understood talks are centered on selling a majority stake of the Paris-based fashion house. Last year, Falic Group began searching for potential investors to help accelerate the fashion company’s expansion and capitalize on the brand’s recent repositioning as a pure luxury play. Lacroix officials could not be reached for comment.

BARRETT HOPS THE POND: It’s only taken 10 years, but designer Neil Barrett will make his first U.S. public appearance this weekend, at Bergdorf Goodman Men on Saturday afternoon. “I’ve only done four of these events in my life, but I need to dedicate time to the American market. Bergdorf Goodman is my best U.S. account. They’ve done incredible increases, season by season,” said Barrett, who is known for modern tailoring with punk influence. In addition to suits and vests, Barrett’s leathers do well at the store. While he’s in town, he plans to see a Katy Perry show. They’ve been friends since before she got famous for kissing a girl. Then he’ll head to Los Angeles on Wednesday to do a few celebrity fittings and spend his birthday weekend in the sun.

IN THE TRUNK: The trunk show season appears to be in full swing. After hosting a Lanvin trunk show last week, Barneys New York did the honors for Givenchy this week. Among the top-selling pieces in the three-day trunk show were $2,965 gray leather motorcycle pants, a $2,780 coated cotton motorcycle jacket, a $1,300 knit turtleneck top with leather sleeves, a $3,540 fur trim collar military jacket, a $1,155 jersey one-sleeve, draped blouson top, a $1,570 covered pearl jersey, drape neck sleeveless top and a $2,060 viscose knit one-sleeve asymmetric, flare-front dress with feather inset shoulder. Accessories bestsellers included a $1,305 evening chain clutch, a $1,750 pair of black studded heels and a $995 leather ankle bootie. “We started carrying Givenchy when Riccardo Tisci became the designer,” said Julie Gilhart, Barneys’ senior vice president and fashion director. “From the very beginning, our customers responded just not to the clothes but to the shoes and bags as well.”

ORANGE YOU GLAD: “Was it too early?” Hermès chief executive Patrick Thomas asked sheepishly before dawn on Thursday. After all, to announce its annual marketing theme for this year, “Beautiful Escape,” the French luxury brand asked some 300 editors and Hermès staffers to assemble at 5 a.m. for a surprise visit to Rungis, the sprawling wholesale food market on the outskirts of Paris that nourishes an estimated 12 million to 15 million people. Wearing white smocks, the fashion pack was eerily silent filing through the giant meat locker — where a young woman in a tuxedo tinkled a gleaming black grand piano — but woke up in the fragrant cheese hall when a mouse-headed waiter glided towards them on Rollerblades offering a tray of cubed cantal. The tour ended with gourmet samplings — from oysters to crepe suzette — while Hermès’ artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas led a crew of cyclists through the dining hall, capping off a quirky morning.

WEST DEVON: Manhattan-based designer Lyn Devon is packing her bags and heading to Los Angeles next week. On Monday night, her childhood best friend, actress Lake Bell, will fete her with a garden party at interior designer Nathan Turner’s West Hollywood store. The next evening Devon fans will have a chance to buy her spring collection and order from her fall line at a cocktail party-cum-trunk show at new boutique Arcade. This June, Devon will have more to celebrate: she’s launching a 50-item capsule collection of summer sportswear, which will be available to private clients.

GOOD LUCK WITH THAT: Lots of designers have trimmed their budgets for press samples lately, but James Perse is going to an extreme, making editors purchase products in order to shoot it. Under the brand’s new policy, euphemistically named the “Studio Sales Discount,” editors must prepay by credit card for product, minus a 10 percent discount. They have 10 days, not a day more, to return the product for a refund, minus a 20 percent restocking fee. James Perse will not accept returns of T-shirts, (which are its bread and butter,) undergarments, footwear or bathing suits. Apparently, the company has decided an editorial credit isn’t worth more than 30 percent of the cost of a T-shirt. Returns will only be processed by the brand’s Melrose Avenue store in Los Angeles — not a showroom or press office. Still interested, editors? The first step is to fill out a credit application. Later on, if you need to transfer the account to a colleague or a successor, you will be required to notify James Perse by certified mail.

Cheese is served chez Hermès.

WWD.COM14 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009

Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

0.93 0.65 Unifi (UFI) - 625130 0.89 +32.84

2.96 2.25 Zale (ZLC) - 1255087 2.81 +26.58

3.49 2.75 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 255217 3.41 +23.10

1.90 1.46 Crocs (CROX) - 4506850 1.77 +21.23

3.85 3.85 Tefron (TFRFF) - 120 3.85 +20.31

1.60 1.36 Glimcher (GRT) - 452265 1.60 +20.30

4.49 3.75 Talbots (TLB) - 435731 4.33 +16.71

4.67 4.02 Brown Shoe (BWS) 4.8 621910 4.48 +15.76

2.63 2.30 Tween Brands (TWB) - 410514 2.57 +14.73

14.43 12.49 Timberland (TBL) 16.8 665125 14.05 +14.69

10 BeST PeRFORMeRS DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt

HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE

0.14 0.12 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 3600 0.12 -25.00

0.70 0.43 Casual Male (CMRG) - 487889 0.55 -12.70

0.37 0.32 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 3600 0.36 -7.69

0.93 0.77 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 94270 0.77 -6.10

0.73 0.68 LJ Intl (JADe) 9.0 67958 0.68 -5.42

56.57 52.44 Chattem (CHTT) 16.2 1248530 53.00 -4.16

33.46 31.95 Family Dollar (FDO) 19.3 3896646 32.13 -2.55

8.25 7.88 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 8.5 4630 8.02 -1.96

317.25 308.00 Asos * (ASC:L) 36.2 422972 310.75 -1.66

2.94 2.90 CCA (CAW) 14.7 4300 2.92 -0.68

10 WORST PeRFORMeRS DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt

HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE

By Whitney Beckett

Anne Klein jumped into e-com-merce thursday with a dedicated site after parent company jones Apparel Group inc. issued a tender offer for its debt.

the e-commerce site, anneklein.com, features the complete Anne Klein new York offerings and AK Anne Klein cloth-ing, footwear, handbags, jewelry and watch collections. it also celebrates the brand’s history in a legacy section highlighting the story of founder Anne Klein and the suc-cession of designers who followed.

“Anne Klein is one of the foremost brands in women’s fashion apparel, and we are happy to make this collec-tion even more accessible to the Anne Klein consumer, who will no doubt enjoy shopping at our new, online flag-ship store,” said Ron offir, president of jones Apparel Group e-commerce.

to mark the launch, anneklein.com is offering a chance to win a $1,000 shop-ping spree.

meanwhile on Wednesday, jones

Apparel Group inc., along with jones Apparel Group Holdings inc., jones Apparel Group uSA inc., nine West Footwear corp. and jones Retail corp., commenced a cash tender offer to pur-chase their outstanding 4.25 percent se-nior notes due 2009, as well as a consent solicitation for those 2009 notes, the 5.125 percent senior notes due 2014 and the 6.125 percent senior notes due 2034.

the tender offer and consent solici-tation follow jones’ new senior secured $650 million credit facility. As of monday, there was an outstanding $250 million principal amount of each set of notes, totaling $750 million.

Adoption of the proposed amendments requires the consent of holders of at least a majority in the principal amount of the notes outstanding. the tender offer ex-pires by midnight April 29, and the con-sent solicitation expires on midnight on April 15. citi has been retained to serve as the lead dealer manager for the tender offer and the lead solicitation agent for the consent solicitation. Charges Drop Harry Winston to 4th-Qtr. Loss

Judge OKs Portions of A&F Suit

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros.

Belk Sustains $202.8M Loss in Qtr.

Anne Klein Sets Sights on E-commerce

By Evan Clark

BelK inc. tooK HeAvY FouRtH-quarter losses after writing down the value of previous acquisitions, but the nation’s largest privately owned depart-ment store said it is poised to emerge from the downturn in better shape.

losses for the quarter ended jan. 31 tallied $202.8 million after a $326.6 mil-lion pretax charge for goodwill impair-ment, which accountants use to register the intangible assets of acquisitions. in recent years, Belk bought a string of chains, including proffitts, mcRae’s and parisian from Saks inc. the quarterly losses compared with year-ago earnings of $85.6 million.

Sales for the three months fell 9.8 per-cent to $1.11 billion from $1.23 billion.

Steve pernotto, executive vice presi-dent of human resources, said the com-pany has cut costs and expenses and

is positioned to benefit when spending picks up. just when that will be remains to be seen, but pernotto said consumer attitudes have stabilized recently.

“in the fourth quarter we continued to see uncertainty in terms of the con-sumer’s reaction to the economic news,” he said. “We’re beginning now to see some settling in that sentiment.”

tim Belk, chairman and chief exec-utive officer and a member of the third generation of Belks to run the firm, said, “We responded to declining sales with an aggressive focus on managing inventories, expenses and capital ex-penditures.”

He also expressed confidence “Belk will emerge from this period as a stron-ger, more competitive company that can deliver profitable growth for the long term.”

For 2008, losses totaled $213 million and compared with year-ago earnings of $95.7 million. Revenues fell 8.5 percent to $3.5 billion from $3.82 billion and were down 8.7 percent on a same-store basis.

Belk, which operates 307 stores in 16 Southern states, reported full-year results thursday and WWd calculated fourth-quarter performance by subtract-ing results for the first nine months of the year from those for the 12 months. the charlotte, n.c.-based firm has pub-lic debt and is obliged to give regular updates on its finances.

By Alexandra Steigrad

luxuRY jeWeleR And mininG firm Harry Winston diamond corp. said thursday it swung to a loss in the fourth quarter as its retail sales sank 20.8 percent for the period.

Weighed down by noncash goodwill impairment related to retail operations totaling $93.8 million, or $1.53 a share, the toronto-based firm recorded a net loss of $73 million, or $1.19 a diluted share, for the quarter ended jan. 31. For the same quarter last year, the company had a profit of $90.4 million, or $1.54 a share. net sales fell 37.1 percent to $118.4 mil-lion from $188.2 million last year while retail sales dropped to $67.3 million from $85 million.

“credit is the vascular system of the diamond industry,” said chairman and chief executive officer Robert Gannicott. “its rapid decline last october shocked the diamond supply chain to a sudden standstill that persisted into this year.” the firm’s response, he noted, has been to reduce capital spending and operating costs “without jeopardizing the future of

our production and sales platforms. “We now see some tentative recovery

in the diamond market, albeit from a re-duced base compared to six months ago,” he said.

last month, in a move that allowed the firm to pay down its mining segment debt, Kinross said it would invest $150 million for a direct stake in Harry Winston and an indirect interest in its minority hold-ings in the diavik diamond mine.

For the year, net income slid 34.1 per-cent to $70.1 million, or $1.15 a share, from $106.4 million, or $1.81 a share, last year. Revenue slid 10.3 percent to $609.2 million from $679.3 million, as net sales in the retail segment grew 5.8 percent to $281 million from $265.5 million.

excluding the effect of inventories on hand prior to the acquisition of the retail operation, gross margin in the retail seg-ment declined to 49.4 percent of sales in 2008 from 50.3 percent in the prior year, reflecting a reduction in higher-margin sales in japan, among other factors.

Strong sales in the middle east, Russia and the rest of Asia helped offset weakness in japan.

By Matthew Lynch

A FedeRAl judGe Ruled tHiS week that a former Abercrombie & Fitch sales associate could proceed with parts of a suit against the company that the plaintiff had accused of dis-criminating against her because of her hair color.

in a complaint filed last year, dulazia Burchette, who worked at the retailer’s new York flagship on Fifth Avenue, al-leged supervisors told her to re-dye blonde highlights in her hair because they did not look natural. Burchette, who is African-American, said a manager told her she should “have the hair color she was born with.” in the complaint, Burchette alleged that “white-caucasian sales associates were not targeted for scrutiny for their hair color….”

the former sales associate left the store of her own accord in june 2008 after about nine months of em-ployment.

Abercrombie moved to have the case dismissed in january.

in a decision handed down on march 30, judge Richard Berman of the Southern district of new York dis-missed several of Burchette’s claims, including conspiracy, constructive dis-charge and those against her individual store supervisors. However, Berman ruled Burchette could continue the action on her claims of race discrimi-nation, retaliation and a hostile work environment.

the judge also allowed Burchette’s attorneys to continue to pursue evi-dence that Abercrombie & Fitch co. chairman and chief executive officer mike jeffries could be named as a de-fendant in the case. in an amended complaint filed in december, Burchette alleged jeffries is the chief architect of the company’s look policy.

An Abercrombie representative said the company had no comment on the ruling.

“ We continued to see uncertainty in terms of the consumer’s reaction to the economic news. ”

— Steve Pernotto, Belk Inc.

WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009 15

MEMO PADRUSSIAN ARCH: Christian Dior is the latest French luxury brand to get a prestigious museum showcase in Russia. Moscow’s Museé d’Art Moderne will host “Christian Dior, 60 Years of Photography,” which opens to the public today and runs through May 10 during the sixth International Festival of Moscow. Admission is 250 rubles, or about $7.40. The history of the French fashion house is told through 120 images by the likes of Henry Clarke, Erwin Blumenfeld, Patrick Demarchelier, Zanna and Simon Proctor. Dior also plans to showcase recent works by Chinese artists, including Quentin Shih, who shot models wearing couture juxtaposed with workaday landscapes. While clothes by the founding couturier and John Galliano get the lion’s share of attention, there are also Guido Mocafico still lifes of fine jewelry by Victoire de Castellane and Nan Goldin images featuring Dior Homme men’s wear by Kris Van Assche. As reported, Dior plans to open new boutiques this year in Saint Petersburg and Ekatrinaburg. — Miles Socha

PAPER CHASE: Rei Kawakubo is collaborating with another surprising partner for her rotating “event” shop in Tokyo’s Aoyama district: Vogue Nippon. On May 28, Comme des Garçons and the fashion title will open a shop to mark Vogue Nippon’s 10th anniversary, billed as a magazine you can walk into — with a new theme,

merchandise and exhibitions each month. Participants for the first month — in tandem with the manga-themed July issue — include Takashi Murakami, Chanel, Fendi, Loewe, Martin Margiela and Walter van Beirendonck. Kawakubo is charged with designing the space, and envisions a clash of energies from various designers and artists. The Vogue Nippon shop is slated to stay open until fall. The Aoyama shop was recently a showcase for Kawakubo’s collaboration on leather goods with Louis Vuitton. — M.S.

MAXIM MOVES ONLINE: Following the digital trail of publications such as the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and the Christian Science Monitor, the British edition of Maxim — one of Britain’s pioneering “lad mags” — will

cease publishing a print edition and shift the focus to its online operation. Dennis Publishing said Thursday the final print edition of the U.K. men’s title, which launched in 1995, would be June. Dennis said it planned to bolster the editorial team at Maxim.co.uk, and chief executive James Tye said, “The future of the brand in the U.K. is online.”

A spokeswoman for Dennis told WWD on Thursday that the U.S. edition of the magazine, which is operated by Alpha Media Inc., would remain in print. That edition has been successful from the get-go, with a monthly circulation of 2.5

million. Dennis will now be the sole importer of the U.S. Maxim in the U.K., supplying copies to newsstands and subscribers.

The spokeswoman said the decision to switch to online was a reactive one. “We did this in answer to consumer demand — we found our readers were more engaged with the online edition than with the print one…and we need to go where the consumers are going,” she said.

The U.K. Web site launched in 1999 and has 500,000 unique users a month and 260,000 subscribers to its weekly e-mail newsletter. The print version’s monthly circulation was 46,000, according to the latest Audit Bureau of Circulations figures, compared with its peak of 328,000 in 2000. — Samantha Conti

The scene at the Christian Dior show in Moscow in 1959; a poster for a Christian show.

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For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail fpclassified@fairchildpub.com to advertise.

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Experienced Bookkeeper Major NYC Accessory Co. seekingbookkeeper w/knowledge & experi-ence in wholesale accessory business,import documents, A/R and A/P.Accounting Software Proficiency aMUST. resumes@enegroupusa.com

DESIGNER, LOFTPR DIRECTOR, ANN TAYLOR

At Ann Taylor, we recognize that talented associates are a great competitiveadvantage. We strive to match individual talents to the right role to createa perfect fit. We are currently hiring for a Director, Public Relations for AnnTaylor Stores as well as Designers for both Ann Taylor Stores and LOFT.

You may learn more and apply online at :www.anntaylorcareers.com

Stephan & Co. - Product Development ManagerMajor NYC Fashion Jewelry company needs Prod Development Manager

•Min 5 years experience in Fashion Jewelry product development•Experience & capable of travel overseas to source & work w/ factories•Good understanding of customer profile, creative & able to spot new trends•Excellent leadership skill to oversee & direct design dept•Good people skill; work well w/ sales people to develop product suitablefor each customer•Detailed and thorough in project follow-up w/ factories

Qualified candidates send resume to: flora@stephanco.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Results oriented Sr. Sales Account Exec-utive sought to drive and develop ourhigh end retail account openings.Luxury Department store experiencerequired. Position based in Manhattanw/ 25% travel. Tremendous opportunity todevelop & drive the business. Fax or emailresume & cover letter to: (315)364-8075

applicant@mackenzie-childs.com

DIRECTOR OF SALESInt’l fashion designer seeks Sales Dir.with min 10 years exp. Must have Int’lexperience + est’d relationships withtop dept. + specialty stores. Sendresume to: hr.exec888@gmail.com

HANDBAG/ACCESSORYSALESPERSON WANTED

Major NYC Accessory Company SeeksExp’d Salesperson with Relationshipsservicing Dept/Mid-Tier/Mass Retail-ers. Opp to sell globally recognizedbrands into the US Market. Huge op-portunity to create a $10M+ businessin this category. Base Salary + Comm.email: Resumes@enegroupusa.com

HAT SALES REPContemporary Hat Manufacturer,Christys’ Crown Series, seeks experiencedSales Rep for Midwest, SE, and NWterritories. Email resume to:

Ashley@Christyshats.com

SALES EXECUTIVE Established Company is seeking asales/account executive to support currentbusiness & future growth. The candidatemust have 2-4 years of consumer productand/or retail experience, strong analyticalskills and organizational skills, excellentcommunication skills, and be locatedin the New York City area. Key responsi-bilities will be communication w/ internalpersonnel, Walmart personnel, and aheavy business analytics. Email resumein Word format to: Sales _042009@live.com

SALESPERSONDesigner look, costume jewelry is seek-ing a competent salesperson. Salary+comm. Email: ametofoo@yahoo.com

SALES REPAward-winning designer lingeriebrand requires multiple line sales repto cover East Coast accounts. Strongspecialty store & high end departmentstore base required. Regular travelacross East Coast is very large part of role.Email resume: sales@carolmalony.com

SALES-SWEATERSVertical sweater co. seeks sales pro forJunior & Missy Sweaters. Must havestrong contacts w/Dept. Stores, Chains,Majors, & Catalogs. Min 5 yrs exp.Send resume: sweatersales@gmail.com

issue date: May 8 CLose: april 10

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle,

publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD representative.

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