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A W 11

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A ‘W 11

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Impressions

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ContentsCollection - 1-4Knitwear 4-8footwear - 8-10 Outerwear 10-14Suiting - 14-18Our Legacy Interview - 18 21Shirts - 21-15trousers - 25-26Richardos choice - 27-29

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Based around men’s basic wardrobe demands, Our Legacy founders Jockum Hallin and Chris-topher Nying has, in only six years, perfectly managed to establish a relaxed but well-dressed look. Much of the brand’s focus is on the fabrics and cuts, often not just through great quality but also with an unconventional approach sometimes resulting in ill-fitting proportions and ruggedly structured materials, as we’ve seen in the last few collections. With ‘Impressions’ for this Autumn Winter and last season’s ‘Observations’, there’s an almost academic and philosophic approach to clothes; these pieces will not go out of fashion because they never were fashion. They might be part of a style, but it’ll always be the style of the wearer, not the brand.

In menswear especially, it is key for brands to find the balance between style, affordability, quality and wearability. A subtle and earthy colour palette on top of that and you’re good to go. Our Legacy delivers on all accounts, creating a brand that, if anything, encapsulates a lifestyle more than just a style. The design duo and art director Tony Cederteg’s reference points are as unexpected as they make perfect sense; 80s vintage Armani, Helmut Lang threads from the 90s, Wu-Tang Clan, hardcore punk, photography books and art installations shape the Our Legacy look.

These factors also form the foundation of the long standing friendship between Our Legacy and Très Bien Shop. Having started out at about the same time, Our Legacy has a special place here, and today we even share a retail space. Our ‘Wel-come’ shop is located in Stockholm’s Östermalm area and carry parts of the Our Legacy collec-tion and selected items from the Très Bien stock, as well as special items and one-offs. Nying and Cederteg also run Libraryman, an indepen-dent publishing company specialising in art and photography books, adding to the idea of a brand obsessed with the greater image, not just details.

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Swedish fashion paper pushers “KING” just crowned the Our Legacy dark knight their favourite royalty of the season.

Although the limelight might be extra bright on it, we´d like to see our midnight coloured section of “Impressions AW11” as a more artistic, sensitive and expressional side of the Legacy. A place to turn for those with big hearts and stone face´s, giving them black suede collars to flip up when the wind blows. Romantic daydreaming, but what the hell do I know? On the street though, where reality is another, they simply call it “Black Rack”.

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COLLECTION

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Knitwear

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Knitwearpictures

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Footwear

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Outerwear

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Outerwearpictures

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SuitingAdd pictures

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Shirting

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Richardos Klarén is one third of the Our Leg-acy foundation and also one of the sharpest dressers north of Cape Town. We called our good friend to have him talk a little bit about his personal taste as well as future plans and memorable fashion purchases.

TRÈS BIEN: Rumor has it that you bought your very first Mar-giela garment at the young age of 17 back in 1997. If that’s really true and what did you get?

RICHARDOS: Well, to be honest it was first in 98 when I was 18 and, haha. Of course, the only thing I could afford was a white t-shirt. A v-neck one with white print.

TRÈS BIEN: You’re notoriously known amongst friends to have a very versatile wardrobe and for wearing what many people could only dream of pulling off. Could you explain one of your more harder-to-pull-off outfits?

RICHARDOS: [Laughs] Yeah, I tend to enjoy mixing high and low. Perhaps Our Legacy‘s camel suede shirt, a pair of dead stock cargo’s and a pair of black cordovan’s to match, and then a black cashmere coat on top of that. Not that tricky, huh?

RICHARDSKLARÉN

TRÈS BIEN: When we talked over the phone some time ago, you were at a fabric fair in Paris. What could we expect from Our Legacy’s fabric choices for Fall / Winter 2012?

RICHARDOS: In general, we looked at many nice heavy wool fabrics, with a lot of structure.We’ve already made a couple of patterns past seasons, but we’ll definitely have more of that, lots of big patterns if there’s been more small ones before.

We’re also very keen on mixtures in composition, wool, cashmere, hemp silk, etc. Technical fabrics continues to take place and de-velop in both color and structure. I think that fabrics that are struc-tured are much more interesting that flat ones.

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TRÈS BIEN: Tupac or Biggie?RICHARDOS: I’ve always listened to more Biggie, RIP.

TRÈS BIEN: We believe that this Our Legacy collection is the strongest we’ve ever seen since we first started working together 5 years (or 10 seasons) ago. Which are your 5 favorite pieces this season?

Navy pinstripe suit – If I want to feel like a dressed up thug. Few pieces gives me the same feeling of being heavy weight.

Black ball cap in wool – I’ve since long advocated the snakeskin boots, blue denim, black washed tee, long black coat topped off with a black ball cap-look. Black wool feels up to date and rough.

Great sweat charcoal towel – I’m really digging unexpected structures in classic garments. This sweatshirt does an equal job of being your shower towel as being worn.

Perfect tee grey melange – It almost feels as if I don’t have to motivate this choice, but the grey mel’ tee is my most used piece of clothing, and the soft and almost pixel-like quality of the fabric gives it a magical depth.

Duffel coat eternal glue – This could be my absolute favorite for this season. A minimalistic duffel with hidden buttoning and only one clean horn button at the neck. Two fabrics glued together to create heaviness and the right drop. A rather luxurious coat considering that is uses Melton fabric as lining. Super warm!

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Here in the U.S., many, when asked about Swedish aesthetics, would conjure examples of their signature elements of design: minimalist forms with an aim at functionality. You’d be hard-pressed to find a fashion insider who would rank Sweden among the most influential places in fashion, but Our Legacy’s collections have been growing and their products are turning heads, which may be enough to put Sweden on the world stage for more than just design. The brand has frequently been dubbed the A.P.C. of Scandinavia, but after speaking to Richardos Klarén, one of the core members of the four-headed team (that also includes Cristopher Nying, Jockum Hallin and Oliver Saunders) that coordinates the brand, we get the sense that Our Legacy is far more complex than another brand riding a ephemeral trend.

The garments are meant to become a part of the wearer’s travels and experiences, as they are constructed to take on character elements of their wearers. With a style that’s both prep and utilitarian, the garments don’t scream to be

noticed, but once you begin to take a closer look, the craftsmanship and uncompromising design stand out in their own right. The cost of materials and manufacturing a well-executed piece, even if the latter is done overseas, is daunting in today’s frenetic economic climate. And for an upstart brand–even with a strong reputation and placement in fine retail spaces like Tres Bien, the challenges are even greater. But Our Legacy keeps plodding along, and those in the menswear world are taking note. After stringing together their first collection only five years ago, Our Legacy has defied odds and soldiered forward.In our discussion with Richardos Klarén, we present a well-rounded portrait of a brand whose potential is only partially realized. Many brands have flooded the prep scene, and with today’s seemingly fly-by-night “return to manliness” approach, many brands won’t survive the trend. But a legacy is about the strength of inspiration, and in the case of the three men crafting line after line of solid garments, a legacy is also about maintaining a reputation. Click below to learn more about a brand whose own legacy has just begun.

“we look at a garment as a product that you fill with cultural and personal value to become much more than just a product.”

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“Painting, films, literature, and sculpture are things that we love and get inspired by. They are what get out thoughts moving”

On a page on your website, your mission state-ment of sort says, “Every garment indeed has a soul, but never until you have filled it with yours.” Can you talk about the construction of your garments as items that begin to reveal characteristics of their wearers?

Richardos: That’s a good formulation. We look at a garment as a product that you fill with cultural and personal value to become much more than just a product. To be able to do that, wear it in and make it into your own individual product, it has to be very well-constructed and made out of a very good materials. Otherwise it would break before it had the chance to get unique.

While many may be aware of the excellence of Scandinavian furniture design, our readers may not be familiar with the Scandinavian tradition in fashion. Can you give our readers a simple ver-sion of your what’s going on in contemporary menswear in that region of the world?

Richardos: Hard question. I don’t know the answer on that really. We don’t see our prod-uct as something Scandinavian primarily. But I guess it’s something raw and unpretentious in Scandinavian design in general that’s always been there and now the rest of the world has opened its eyes to it. I actually think it’s closely related to Scandinavian furniture design; it has the same thoughts, same spirit.

Many lines, like yours, have been increasingly ex-porting their manufacturing to Portugal. What are some important elements of Portuguese manufac-turing?

Richardos: The key advantages with Portugal and why it works so well with our specific product are multiple. Quality-wise, they have a very high level and they are very flexible when it comes to trying new ideas working with low minimums. There are a lot of small family-owned factories there that do what they do out of love for the garments, like we do.

What are some of your artistic influences from the other artistic realms (films, painting, sculpture, literature, etc…). How do these influences find their way into your collections?

Richardos: The artistic branches that you men-tion are all very important in our work. Painting, films, literature, and sculpture are things that we love and get inspired by. They are what get our thoughts moving forward. It’s hard to be concrete here, but it’s like it is with everything, you see something, get inspired to look at something simi-lar and then it moves on. I think we have the need to create what we are thinking about.Describe the growth of your brand since 2005, when you released your first pieces?Richardos: We went from a few printed T-shirts in 2005 to incorporating in 2007 and the first complete collection in spring 2008. From 2008, the growth has been fast, yet we are a very small company, consisting of six people who work in the office, excluding the stores.What can a consumer expect to see in Fall and Winter of 2011?Richardos: That’s still a well-kept secret.

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WELCOME is a collaboration between the clothing brand Our Legacy and Très bien shop. The approach was to develop a generic store concept that can be applied in different locations and contexts. The architectural concept involves a matrix of furniture, a total of 64 variants that derives from an analysis on dimensions and different ways on how to display the collec-tions.

Expression and materiality of the furniture may vary from store to store. On Sibyllegatan, that also includes showroom and headquarters for Our Legacy, it´s a collage of different ambitions – cosmopolitan, intimate, flex-ible, cheap, exclusive, lush and poetic. A piece of the city.

Welcomestore

Sibyllegatan 9, SE-11442 Stockholm

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TEXT TEXT

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Stockists

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CREDITS

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