ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS. TRAINING OBJECTIVES ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TRAINING OBJECTIVES Participants will...

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS


TRAINING OBJECTIVESTRAINING OBJECTIVESTRAINING OBJECTIVESTRAINING OBJECTIVES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTRAINING OBJECTIVESTRAINING OBJECTIVES

Participants will understand:

• the components of a Rope Rescue System• the specific duties of Rope Rescue Team members• the Tandem Prusik Belay System• Lowering Belay• Raising Belay• understand Lowering Systems• Mechanical Advantage• Raising Systems• How to Reverse the System


ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMROPE RESCUE SYSTEMROPE RESCUE SYSTEMROPE RESCUE SYSTEM

Placer County Sheriff’s

Mountain Rescue Team


The Rope Rescue Team


ROPE RESCUE TEAMROPE RESCUE TEAMROPE RESCUE TEAMROPE RESCUE TEAM

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE TEAMROPE RESCUE TEAM

• Safety Officer

• Operations Leader

• Systems Leader

• Medical Team Leader

• Belay Line System Operator

• Main Line System Operator

• Edge Tenders

• Haul Team


SAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICER


Rescue situations rapidly change. The effective Safety Officer must be able to forecast potential safety issues.



• The Safety Officer is responsible for monitoring and assessing the safety aspects of all team operations, door-to-door.


ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSSAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICERSAFETY OFFICER

At least one team Safety Officer should be assigned to every rescue mission and training event.


Any member of the team can call STOP to an operation if a safety concern is detected



1. Scene Safety

– Establishes, and marks a minimum 6’ safety zone at the edge

– All personnel must be on a tether beyond this safety zone



1. Scene Safety

Determine if the rigging location is safe

– Loose rocks– Unstable overhang– Awareness of any

environmental safety issues

• Poison Oak• Hornet’s nest


• Requirements for Personal Floatation Devices


1. Scene Safety

– Checks each member’s minimum PPE

• Helmet• Gloves• Harness

– Establishes a Safe Zone 6’ from edge



1. Scene Safety

– Responsible for selecting safe helicopter landing zone.

– Assures an emergency medical plan is in place

– Assures Horseplay does not occur



2. System Safety

– Checks each Anchor• Proper anchor

materials• Proper anchor for

situation• Bomb-proof anchor

system• Angles



2. System Safety

– Checks each system to the component level

• Knots• Proper carabiners in

use• Carabiners locked• Proper and adequate

edge protection in place



2. System Safety

– Checks each System

• Adequate MA

• Proper overall setup

• Proper equipment used

– Checks for a “Kill Zone” in the rigged system and marks the kill zone area



3. Edge Tender Safety

– Edge tender has independent anchor

– Edge tender is tethered before approaching the edge



4. Operation Safety

– Assures change-over procedures are conducted in a safe manner.

– Assures adequate medical resources are considered when making search team assignments.



4. Operation Safety

– Monitors the entire operation.

– The Safety Officer can stop the operation at any time.

– Monitor vehicle safety: sleepiness and adequate

breaks on convoys.



RESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMS


BELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY DEFINITIONSBELAY DEFINITIONS

1. Belay – to provide protection against a fall by handling a tensionless rope (belay rope) in such a manner that it may be taken in or let out as another person(s) climbs, rappels, or ascends a fixed rope or is raised, lowered or transported, yet be secure to hold this load in case of failure of the main support.

2. Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall by the person(s) needing the protection moving their adjustable connection point along a fixed rope, that remains without tension until the fall, as they climb, rappel or ascend a different fixed, or are raised, lowered or transported, by a separate rope.

3. Conditional Belay – to provide protection against a fall by using a rope, that is already under tension from all or part of the load, to hold the load should a failure occur in some other part of the system.

(RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY DEFINITIONSBELAY DEFINITIONS

4. Conditional Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall by the use of a conditional belay that is managed by the person(s) needing the protection.

5. Auto Belay – (“Deadman” Belay) a self activating belay that does not require a positive action to engage it. The term auto can be applied to any of the 4 types of belay listed above when it is appropriate.

6. Pseudo Belay – a belay that will not work; that is pretend, counterfeit or false. The term pseudo can be applied to any of the 4 types of belay listed above when it is appropriate.

(RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMS

• Rescue Systems TestingThe B.C. Council of Technical Rescue (BCCTR) started testing of

systems in 1982.

• The BCCTR has the following minimum standard:

with a 200kg mass (two persons + equipment = load) tied to 3 meters of rope, the belay system must be able to withstand a 1 meter drop of the load and stop it in less than 1 meter of additional travel and with less than 15 KN of force (while retaining 80% of system strength.

(copyright ©1990 – Arnor Larson)


• It is of great concern that a number of systems in present use cannot manage this bare minimum!

• To date the only belay system tested successfully in accordance with the BCCTR standard is the Tandem Prusik Belay.



• To date no Gibbs, rescuesender, or other mechanical belay device tested has met the BCCTR 1 meter minimum.

• Note: since 1990 the only mechanical belay device that has meet the BCCTR standard is the 540° Belay


ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTSBELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTSBELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTSBELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTS


Main & Belay Focal Points are down slope


• Where is the belay line focal point?

• Where is the main line focal point?

• Where’s Joe?

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY READY?BELAY READY?BELAY READY?BELAY READY?

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand PositionBELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand PositionBELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand PositionBELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand Position

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSIK BELAYTANDEM PRUSIK BELAY

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY with LOADTANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY with LOAD

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (StaticStatic))

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSTANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (DynamicDynamic))


EDGE TENDEREDGE TENDEREDGE TENDEREDGE TENDER


1. Edge Tender Safety

– Edge tender has independent anchor (may share a bomber anchor point, but may not attach to system anchors)

– Edge tender is tied into an adjustable tether before approaching the edge

– Clears loose rocks and tripping hazards from the edge



2. System Safety– Places ropes on

appropriate edge protection

– Assures ropes remain on edge protection.



1. Attendant Safety– Assist attendant and

stokes over the edge



1. Attendant Safety– Weighting the system

before going over the edge removes slack and stretch in the main line. 20’ of rope in operation, with a 2% stretch, will result in 3”-6” of sudden movement if the system is not weighted.• Tightening of knots

• Stretch of rope

• Rigging extension



– As attendant goes over the edge, the “Lower slow” used in approaching the edge should be slowed even more,

– The upper body of the attendant is rotating through an arc. For a brief period, the feet are neither moving back nor moving down.


ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSEDGE TENDEREDGE TENDEREDGE TENDEREDGE TENDER

– Communicates with, and for, the attendant at the edge.

Halts system 1 meter from edge for tensioning

Edge Tender Ops Leader“STOP!”

“Why Stop?”“Attendant tension

the system” <attendant weights

system>“Lower slow”

“Lowering slow”“Attendant at the edge”

<attendant rotates over edge>

“Lower slow”


– Provides voice communication between Ops Leader and Attendant to relay changes in speed control

– Observes the path of the rope to detect additional rope hazards requiring edge pro



• 8 mm Accessory cord– Attached to independent

anchor– Attached to harness with

Figure-8 on a bight and locking carabiner

• 6 mm prusik cord– Attached to 8mm cord

with prusik– Attached to harness with

Figure-8 on a bight and locking carabiner

ADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASHADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASHADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASHADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASH


RESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMSRESCUE SYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY LINE COMMUNICATIONSBELAY LINE COMMUNICATIONS

• “ON BELAY” Is the belay ready?

» “BELAY ON” Yes, the belay is ready

• “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE”» “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE”

• “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE”» “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE”

• “OFF BELAY”» “BELAY OFF”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSMAIN LINE COMMUNICATIONSMAIN LINE COMMUNICATIONS

• “MAIN LINE READY?” Is the main line ready?

» “MAIN LINE IS READY” Yes, the main line is ready

• “LOWER SLOW”» “LOWER SLOW”

• “RAISE SLOW”» “RAISE SLOW”

• “LOWER FASTER”» “LOWER FASTER”

• “RAISE FASTER”» “RAISE FASTER”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSCOMMUNICATIONSCOMMUNICATIONS

• “STOP”» “WHY STOP”

All Activity Stops

All Devices are Set

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSCOMMUNICATIONSCOMMUNICATIONS

OPS: “Stand by for roll call”

OPS: “On belay?”

BELAYER: “Belay on”

OPS: “Main line ready?”

MAINLINE: “Main line ready on four bars”

OPS: “Edge tender ready?”

BELAYER: “Edge Tender ready”

OPS: “Attendant ready?”

ATTENDANT: “Attendant ready”

OPS: “Medic ready?”

MAINLINE: “Medic ready”

Roll Call

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSBELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIABELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA

• British Columbia Council on Technical Rescue

de facto standard

Belay Competence Drop Test Criteria

– 200 kg (440 lb) mass

– 1 meter (3.28 feet) fall

– 3 meters (9.84 feet) rope

– < 1 meter (3.28 feet) arrest distance

– Maximum 15 kN (3,375 lb) peak impact force

This test also calls for the maximum force transmitted through the system to the anchor point to be no greater than 15 kN (3,375 lbf.)


• Edge Transition is the Worst Case Scenario

– Slippage through the belay device

– Tightening of knots– Stretch of rope– Prussic extension– Rigging extension

BELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIABELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA


LOAD RELEASE LOAD RELEASE HITCHHITCH

LOAD RELEASE LOAD RELEASE HITCHHITCH


• The Radium 3:1 Load Release Hitch (LRH) allows the load on a rope grab to be transferred to another device

• The LRH is used in conjunction with a tandem prusik belay

OR• The LRH is used in

conjunction with a Progress Capture Device (PCD)

LOAD RELEASE HITCHLOAD RELEASE HITCHLOAD RELEASE HITCHLOAD RELEASE HITCH


• Before employing the LRH be certain that the load is being transferred to a secure anchor

• If there is any doubt regarding the safety of an impact loaded LRH, it should be retired



• Attach a Figure-8 on a bight to the Load-side carabiner

• Place the Figure-8 close to the carabiner spine

• Bring the standing part of the cord up through the Anchor-end carabiner

• Place the standing part close to the carabiner spine


HOW TO TIEHOW TO TIEHOW TO TIEHOW TO TIE


• Bring the cord back through the Lode-side carabiner

• Place the cord on the Gate side of the Figure-8




Bring the cord back to the Anchor-side and tie a Munter hitch on the Gate side

Tie the Munter Hitch in the Release position with the standing end on the Gate side




Secure the LRH by forming a mule knot around all three cords

• Position the mule knot against the Munter hitch

• Provides a 3:1 mechanical advantage

• Can hold heavy loads without tightening




IMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICES

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSIMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICESIMPROPER BELAY DEVICES


LOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMS

Kurt Bandilla

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMSLOWERING SYSTEMS


• Brake Bar Rack

– Standard for MRT Lowering systems

– A U-Shaped frame – A series of bars– Hyper-bar

• Tie Off• Add Friction


• Advantages

– Allows friction to be varied, even when loaded

– Does not twist rope

– Can be easily attached to a rope without detaching from anchor

– Can use two ropes

– Can use varying sized ropes


• Disadvantages

– Bulkier and heavier than other lowering devices

– May take slightly longer to

load the rope


• Other Considerations

– Eye may be oriented 90o

– Rope should pass over the

loading groove

– Welded eye on the frame is rated over 10,000 lbs. (44 kN)


• Other Considerations

– Bars may be aluminum or steel

– Bars come in a variety of shapes

– Only use bars designed for your brake bar

– Assure you are using a rescue rated brake bar rack


• Set up your anchor or check to assure that an established anchor is adequate

• Equipment that will be used later is attached to the anchor plate


• Tie a figure-8 in the end of the rope and clip to the large hole in the anchor plate with a locking carabiner

• This assures the rope does not leave unexpectedly if someone pulls the rope before the system is complete


• To have the lowering system pass the whistle test, tie an 8mm prusik hitch to the anchor plate with a load release hitch

• The disadvantage is having to mind the prusik


• Rig the rope through the brake bar

• Advise Ops Leader,

“Main Line Ready to Lower!”

• Lock off the Brake Bar if it is to be unattended for any length of time


• Tying Off


• Brake Bar tie-off using the hyper-bar

• Demonstrate Tie-off of Brake Bar without hyper-bars


MECHANICAL MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE ADVANTAGE

REVIEWREVIEW

MECHANICAL MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE ADVANTAGE

REVIEWREVIEW


• Gravity = Weight

– 1 kN = 224.81 lbf

– 1 Person ≈ 1 kN




– The average rescuer can hold or apply a .2 kN force with one hand (≈ 45 lbs)

– The average rescuer can hold or apply a .4 kN force with two hands (≈ 90 lbs)

– Hauling an rope ‘hand-over-hand’ is applying a force of 45-50 lbs


• Impulse (force of impact)

– The average reaction time to a failure or rope movement is 1 sec

– In 1 sec a 1 kN load will travel 16 feet

– The 1 kN load will be traveling 21.8 mph

– A fall of 16 ft on 85 ft of static rope will result in an impact force of 13.5 kN (3035 lbs)


• Falls on a static rope

– Fatal falls on a static belay line would be the result of belayers not paying attention

– What happens at 12 kN?

BELAY INCOMPETENCE CRITERIABELAY INCOMPETENCE CRITERIA


Pulley Types:

• Fixed pulley

– Provides change of direction ONLY


Pulley Types:

• Movable pulley

– Adds Mechanical Advantage


• The longest distance a pulley system can be stretched, the distance from the anchored pulley to the moving pulley, is called the stroke.

• The longer the stroke, the more useful the MA system.


• If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple pulley system will be EVEN

• 2:1, 4:1, 6:1, 248:1


• If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple pulley system will be EVEN

• 1:1, 3:1, 5:1, 115:1


RAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMS

Clark Wurzberger

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMS

• Hauling without the aid of a system is a Mechanical Advantage of 1:1

• Also known as the Armstrong Method


• Our simplest system is the Simple 2:1 Mechanical Advantage

• Components are:– Rope

– One pulley


• Our basic haul system is the simple 3:1 Mechanical Advantage

• Components are:– Rope– Two (2) pulleys– One (1) rope grab


• With the addition of a single pulley, the 3:1 is converted to a 5:1Mechanical Advantage

• Components are:– Rope– Four (4) pulleys


• Piggybacking the simple 2:1 onto the simple 3:1 provides a compound 6:1Mechanical Advantage


Setting and Resetting the SystemOnce the haul team has collapsed the system, it must be reset

to its maximum length so hauling can continue

Haul Prusik reaches Progress Capture Device (PCD)Main Line Lead: “Stop . . . Resetting”

PCD is set by Haul Team Member

Haul Team Member setting PCD: “Set”

Haul Team Member fully extends the throw of the systemHaul Team Member extending system: “Reset”

OPS: “Raise Slow”

Do NOT use the words “Reset” or “Resetting” while actually extendingthe system. Only use the word “Reset” when the task is fully completed.


• Piggybacking the simple 2:1 onto the simple 5:1 provides a compound 10:1Mechanical Advantage

RAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMSRAISING SYSTEMS


REVERSING THE REVERSING THE SYSTEMSSYSTEMS

REVERSING THE REVERSING THE SYSTEMSSYSTEMS

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSREVERSING THE SYSTEMSREVERSING THE SYSTEMSREVERSING THE SYSTEMSREVERSING THE SYSTEMS

• Work on only one line at a time

• Change the Main Line first, then the Belay Line

• Wait for direction from the Ops Leader before you do anything.

• Don’t anticipate a change to the system


• Communicate

– Tell the Ops Leader what you are doing,

before you do it


• Throughout the conversion, the system load will be on the Main Line.

• The Belay line will be locked off or continually tended

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSREVERSING LOWER TO RAISEREVERSING LOWER TO RAISEREVERSING LOWER TO RAISEREVERSING LOWER TO RAISE

• Step 1

– Assure you have the equipment you will need

• One Pulley

• One Progress Capture Device (PCD)


• Step 2

– Lock off your lowering device


• Step 2

– Attach your Progress Capture Device (PCD)


• Step 3

– Unlock the lowering device and load the PCD

• Step 4– Attach the pulley to the LRH

and rig the pulley


• Step 5

– Assemble your Haul pulley onto the running end of the rope

• Step6– Assemble your Rope Grab

Device


• Step 5

– Attach your Rope Grab Device


“Main Line Ready to Haul!”

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSROPE RESCUE SYSTEMSREVERSING RAISE TO LOWERREVERSING RAISE TO LOWERREVERSING RAISE TO LOWERREVERSING RAISE TO LOWER

• Step 1

– Assure you have the equipment you will need

• One Brake Bar Rack


• Step 2

– Lower the Load onto the Progress Capture Device (PCD)

– Remove the pulley and Rope grab and attach to the anchor plate


• Step 3

– Load the lowering device and lock it off

• Step 4– Use the Load Release Hitch

to transfer the load to the lowering device


• Step 5– Remove the Progress

Capture Device– Retie the LRH

• Step 6– Prepare to Lower


“Main Line Ready to Lower!”


• Tomorrow 07:30

• 24 hour packs– Helmet– Harness– Gloves– Orange Shirts / Green pants– Lunch– Water

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS. TRAINING OBJECTIVES ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS TRAINING OBJECTIVES Participants will...

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