Rome 8 - City Guide - Contents (Chapter)media.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/rome-8-contents.pdf ·...
39
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Duncan Garwood, Abigail Blasi Rome
Transcript of Rome 8 - City Guide - Contents (Chapter)media.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/rome-8-contents.pdf ·...
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Duncan Garwood,Abigail Blasi
Rome
Contents
Welcome to Rome ........... 4
Rome’s Top 13 ................. 6
What’s New .................... 15
Need to Know ................ 16
First Time Rome ............ 18
Top Itineraries ...............20
If You Like... ....................22
Month by Month ............25
With Kids ........................28
Like a Local ....................30
For Free ..........................32
Eating ........................... 34Drinking & Nightlife... 43Entertainment ............ 48Shopping .......................53
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Rome 265
Survival Guide 317
Rome Maps 353
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Rome 56
Transport ..................... 318
Directory A–Z ..............325
Language .................... 333
Behind the Scenes ..... 339
Index ............................. 341
Rome Today ................ 266
History ......................... 268
The Arts....................... 283
Architecture .................297
The Roman Way of Life ............................ 313
Ancient Rome ............... 60
Centro Storico ...............80
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ................. 111
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati .............................. 136
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ........................ 159
Trastevere & Gianicolo .......................181
San Giovanni to Testaccio ...................... 195
Southern Rome .......... 208
Villa Borghese & Northern Rome .......... 220
Day Trips from Rome ................. 235Sleeping ..................... 252
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CentroStorico
p80
Monti, Esquilino &San Lorenzo
p159
Vatican City,Borgo & Prati
p136
AncientRomep60
Villa Borghese &Northern Rome
p220
Trastevere &Gianicolo
p181
Tridente, Trevi &the Quirinale
p111
San Giovannito Testaccio
p195
SouthernRomep208
(left) Spanish Steps (p113)
(above) Pantheon (p82)
(right) Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere (p183)
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Ancient Rome . . . . . . . 60Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 79shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Centro Storico . . . . . . 80Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 103entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 105shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale . . . . . . . . . . . 111Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 130entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 131shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1311
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati . . . . . . . .136Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .157entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .158shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo . . . . . . . .159Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 175entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 177shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
Trastevere & Gianicolo . . . . . . . . . . . 181Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 191entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .192shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
San Giovanni to Testaccio . . . . . . . . .195Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 206entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 207shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Southern Rome . . . . . 208Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .218entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .219
Villa Borghese & Northern Rome . . . . . 220Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 232entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 233shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Day Trips from Rome . . . . . . . . . 235ostia Antica. . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Tivoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Castelli Romani . . . . . . . . . 239Cerveteri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Viterbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245orvieto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 252
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©Explore Rome
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Colosseum .........................62
Palatino ............................. 64
Roman Forum ...................67
Capitoline Museums ........ 71
Pantheon............................82
Piazza Navona .................. 84
Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps ..................113
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo .........................114
Trevi Fountain ...................115
St Peter’s Basilica ...........138
Vatican Museums ........... 143
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme ..........................161
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore ..........................162
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli ...............................163
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere ........................183
Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano ....... 197
Via Appia Antica ..............210
Basilica & Catacombe di San Sebastiano ............211
Museo e Galleria Borghese ......................... 222
TOP SIGHTSROME’S
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Day TwoVatican City, Borgo & Prati (p136)
M On day two, hit the Vatican. First up, grab a cornetto (criossant) from Dol-
ce Maniera, then plunge into the Vatican Museums. Once you’ve blown your mind on the Sistine Chapel and the other highlights, complete your tour at St Peter’s Basilica. If the queues are bad, though, or you’re suffer-ing art overload, stop first for an early lunch.
Centro Storico (p80)
R Dedicate the afternoon to sniffing around the historic centre. Here
you’ll come across some of Rome’s great sights, including Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Art lovers can admire paintings by Caravaggio in the Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi and fashion-conscious shop-pers can browse the boutiques on Via del Governo Vecchio.
Centro Storico (p80)
N After dinner stop in the centre for a taste of dolce vita bar life. Depend-
ing on what you’re after, you could spend a relaxed evening at Etablì near Piazza Navona, join the student drinkers on Cam-po de’ Fiori, or chat over coffee at Caffè Sant’Eustachio.
Lunch Grab a snack at mondo Arancina (p156).
Dinner Romantic Casa Coppelle (p97) offers fine French-inspired food.
Day OneAncient Rome (p60)
M Start the day at the Colosseum, Rome’s huge gladiatorial arena –
try to get there early to avoid the queues. Then head down to the Palatino to poke around crumbling ruins and admire sweep-ing views. From the Palatino, follow on to the Roman Forum, an evocative area of tumble-down temples, sprouting columns and ruined basilicas.
Ancient Rome (p60)
R After lunch climb the Cordonata to Piazza del Campidoglio and
the Capitoline Museums. Here you’ll find some stunning ancient sculpture and paint-ings by a selection of big-name artists. To clear your head afterwards, pop next door to Il Vittoriano and take the lift to the top for Rome’s best 360-degree views.
Centro Storico (p80)
N Spend the evening exploring the Jewish Ghetto where there are
some wonderful eateries. Round the day off with a late drink at Bartaruga, near the Ghetto’s much-loved turtle fountain.
Lunch sample regional specialities at the enoteca provincia Romana (p78).
Dinner Dine on quality seafood at Vecchia Roma (p102).
Top Itineraries
20
Day FourSouthern Rome (p208)
M On day four it’s time to venture out to Via Appia Antica. The
main attractions here are the catacombs and it’s a wonderfully creepy sensation to duck down into these sinister pitch-black tunnels. Back above ground, you’ll find the remains of an ancient racetrack at the nearby Villa di Massenzio.
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (p159)
R Start the afternoon by visiting the Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, a superb museum full of classical sculpture and stunning mosaics. Then, drop by the monumental Basilica di Santa Mag-giore, famous for its mosaics, and the Ba-silica di San Pietro in Vincoli, home to Michelangelo’s muscular Moses sculpture. Finish up by exploring the pretty lanes of the Monti district.
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (p159)
N Step out with the students in San Lorenzo, where there’s always
something going on in the chic restau-rants, cheap student haunts and bars. Further out, you’ll find plenty of action in trendy Pigneto.
Lunch Book a table at highly regarded Trattoria Monti (p173).
Dinner Head out to boho San Lorenzo (p176) and see what’s cooking.
Day ThreeVilla Borghese & Northern Rome (p220)
M Day three starts with a trip to the Museo e Galleria Borghese to
marvel at amazing baroque sculpture. After wards, walk off what you’ve just seen in the shady avenues of Villa Borghese and check what’s going on at Rome’s buzzing cultural centre, the Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (p111)
R In the afternoon investigate the area around Piazza di Spagna.
Plan your moves while sitting on the Spanish Steps then dive down Via dei Condotti to window shop at the flagship designer stores. From Via del Corso, at the bottom, you can make your way up to the Trevi Fountain, where tradition dictates you throw in a coin to ensure your return to Rome.
Trastevere & Gianicolo (p181)
N Over the river, the charmingly photo genic Trastevere neighbour-
hood bursts with life in the evening as locals and tourists flock to its many eater-ies and bars. Get into the mood with an aperitif at Freni e Frizioni before pizza at Pizzeria Dar Poeta or a refined dinner at Glass Hostaria.
Lunch Pop up to Piazzale Ponte Milvio in the Flaminio district (p231).
Dinner Trastevere (p189) heaves with restaurants, pizzerias and trattorias.
Relaxing in the gardens of the Villa Borghese (p225)
PAN
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21PLAN
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Rome Maps
353
mAP INDEX1 Ancient Rome (p356)
2 Centro storico North (p360)
3 Centro storico south (p362)
4 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (p364)
5 Vatican City, Borgo & prati (p368)
6 san Giovanni & Testaccio (p370)
7 Trastevere & Gianicolo (p372)
8 san Lorenzo (p375)
9 monti & esquilino (p376)
10 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome (p380)
11 southern Rome (p382)
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HCENTRO STORICO NORTH Map on p360
æ Top Sights (p82) 40 Pasquino...................................................... D51 Chiesa del Gesù ......................................... G6 41 Piazza Colonna ...........................................H32 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ...............E4 42 Piè di Marmo ............................................... G53 Galleria Doria Pamphilj...............................H5 43 Stadio di Domiziano................................... D34 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo 44 Tempio di Adriano......................................G4
Altemps..................................................... E3 45 Torre dell'Orologio .....................................C45 Pantheon...................................................... F4 46 Via dei Coronari .......................................... C36 Piazza Navona.............................................E4 47 Via del Governo Vecchio ........................... D5
48 Via Giulia...................................................... B6æ Sights (p85)
7 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6 ú Eating (p97)8 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7 49 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B49 Area Sacra ................................................... F6 50 Armando al Pantheon................................ F4
Basilica di San Lorenzo in Damaso (see 35) 51 Baffetto 2..................................................... D610 Campo de' Fiori ...........................................D6 52 Bar del Fico.................................................. C411 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7 53 Campana ..................................................... E212 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei 54 Casa Bleve................................................... E5
Fiorentini...................................................A4 55 Casa Coppelle..............................................F313 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina............... G1 Chiostro del Bramante Caffè...........(see 14)14 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace & 56 Cul de Sac.................................................... D5
Chiostro del Bramante............................D4 57 Da Francesco .............................................. C415 Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra 58 Da Tonino .................................................... C4
Minerva .....................................................G5 59 Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara ...................E716 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone...............D4 60 Ditirambo..................................................... D617 Chiesa di Sant'Agostino.............................E3 61 Enoteca Corsi..............................................G618 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle.............E6 62 Fiocco di Neve............................................. F419 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici .............B6 63 Forno di Campo de' Fiori ...........................D620 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola .............. H4 64 Forno Roscioli ..............................................E721 Chiesa di Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza ............... E5 65 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C322 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C5 66 Gino .............................................................. G223 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3 67 Giolitti............................................................F324 Elefantino..................................................... F5 68 Gran Caffè La Caffettiera ..........................H425 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi.........................E4 69 Grappolo D'Oro...........................................D626 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5 70 Green T ........................................................ G527 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4 71 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza.......................... D728 Largo di Torre Argentina ........................... F6 72 Il Bacaro........................................................F329 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6 73 La Focaccia ................................................. D430 Museo Criminologico .................................B5 74 La Rosetta ................................................... F431 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5 75 Lilli ................................................................ D332 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta 76 Lo Zozzone.................................................. D4
Balbi...........................................................G7 77 Matricianella.................................................G133 Obelisk..........................................................G3 78 Osteria dell'Ingegno ...................................G434 Palazzo Chigi .............................................. H3 79 Osteria Sostegno........................................ F435 Palazzo della Cancelleria ...........................D6 80 Pizzeria al Leoncino ....................................G136 Palazzo di Montecitorio .............................G3 81 Pizzeria da Baffetto.................................... C537 Palazzo Farnese..........................................D7 82 Pizzeria la Montecarlo ............................... D538 Palazzo Madama.........................................E4 83 Renato e Luisa ............................................ F639 Palazzo Spada.............................................D7 84 RosticceRí ................................................... E4
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85 San Crispino ................................................ F4 125 De Sanctis ...................................................G4 86 Sergio alle Grotte........................................D7 126 Feltrinelli ...................................................... F6 87 Vice ............................................................... F6 127 Ghezzi .......................................................... F6 88 Zazà ..............................................................E4 128 Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio..........................E7
129 le Artigiane ...................................................F5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p103) 130 Le Tele di Carlotta ...................................... D3 89 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5 131 Libreria del Viaggiatore .............................C6 90 Caffè & Bar della Pace................................D4 132 Loco.............................................................. D6 91 Caffè Farnese ..............................................D6 133 Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5 92 Caffè Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 134 Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5 93 Caffè Tazza d'Oro ...................................... G4 135 Nardecchia.................................................. D4 94 Ciampini ....................................................... G1 136 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di 95 Circus ...........................................................C4 Santa Maria Novella................................ E4 96 Emporio alla Pace .......................................D4 137 Omero e Cecilia .......................................... C5 97 Etablì.............................................................C4 138 Pio La Torre..................................................F2 98 Fandango Incontro ..................................... F2 139 Posto Italiano ...............................................E7 99 Il Goccetto....................................................B5 140 Rachele ........................................................ D6 100 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 141 Retrò ............................................................ C4 101 Les Affiches .................................................D5 142 SBU .............................................................. D5 102 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 143 Spazio Sette.................................................F7 103 Vineria Reggio .............................................D6 144 Stilo Fetti .....................................................G4
145 Tartarughe .................................................. G5 ý Entertainment (p105) 146 Tempi Moderni ........................................... C5 104 English Theatre of Rome ...........................D4 147 Vestiti Usati Cinzia ..................................... C5 105 La Maison.....................................................D4 148 ZouZou......................................................... D5 106 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 107 Teatro dell'Orologio....................................C4 Activities (p41, p324) 108 Teatro Valle ................................................. E5 149 Battelli di Roma .......................................... B2
150 Roman Kitchen ........................................... H5 þ Shopping (p105) 109 A.S. Roma Store......................................... H3 ÿ Sleeping (p256) 110 Ai Monasteri ................................................ E3 151 Albergo Abruzzi .......................................... F4 111 Al Sogno....................................................... E3 152 Albergo del Sole.......................................... E6 112 Alberta Gloves............................................ G6 153 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6 113 Aldo Fefè ...................................................... F3 154 Casa di Santa Brigida.................................C6 114 Anniable Gamarelli ..................................... F5 155 Dimora degli Dei .........................................G4 115 Arsenale .......................................................D6 156 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................D6 116 Bartolucci.................................................... G4 157 Hotel Due Torri ........................................... E2 117 Bertè............................................................. E5 158 Hotel Fontanella Borghese......................... F1 118 Casali ............................................................B3 159 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5 119 Città del Sole ............................................... E3 160 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo ............................ E6 120 Comics Bazar ..............................................B5 161 Relais Palazzo Taverna.............................. C3 121 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio...............G5 162 Teatropace 33............................................. D4 122 Cuadros Roma ............................................B3 123 daDADA 52 ..................................................D7 124 Davide Cenci................................................ F3
Ø
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366
TRIDENTE, TREvI & THE Q
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3 Basilica di Santa 9 Case Romane ................ E2 di Malta........................ B3Sabina.......................... B2 10 Chiesa di San 20 Scala Santa & Sancta
4 Terme di Caracalla ....... E4 Gregorio Magno ......... E2 Sanctorum..................H211 Chiesa di Santo 21 Triclinium Leoninum ....H2
æ Sights (p199) Stefano Rotondo.........F2 22 Villa Celimontana.......... E35 Basilica di San 12 Cimitero Acattolico
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14 Monte Testaccio ........... A5 24 Aroma.............................. F1
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25 Caffè Propaganda.......... E1 37 Il Seme e la Foglia .........B4 47 Soul Food .......................G226 Checchino dal 1887 ...... A5 38 Linari............................... A4 48 Via Sannio ......................H227 Da Felice......................... B4 39 L'Oasi della Birra ...........B4 49 Volpetti ...........................B428 Flavio al 40 My Bar ............................. F1
Velavevodetto ............ A5 Ø Sports & Activities (p323)29 Il Bocconcino.................. E1 ý Entertainment (p207) 50 Through Eternity30 Li Rioni............................. F1 41 ConteStaccio................. B5 Cultural31 Pizzeria Da Remo.......... A3 42 L'Alibi .............................. A5 Association .................H432 Taverna dei Quaranta... E2 43 Villaggio Globale............ A533 Trattoria da Bucatino ... B4 ÿ Sleeping (p264)34 Volpetti Più .................... B4 þ Shopping (p207) 51 Athea Inn ........................ B5
44 Calzature Boccanera....B4 52 Hotel Romance.............. F2ûDrinking & Nightlife(p206) 45 Junk Food.......................G2 53 Hotel Sant'Anselmo......B3
35 Coming Out..................... E1 46 Nuovo Mercato di36 Il Pentagrappolo............. F1 Testaccio .................... A4
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æ Top Sights (p183) 34 Sisini..............................................................F51 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in 35 Sora Mirella Caffè.......................................H4
Trastevere.................................................H5 36 Todis............................................................. E52 Basilica di Santa Maria in 37 Valzani ..........................................................F3
Trastevere.................................................E43 Villa Farnesina .............................................D2 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p191)
38 Bar le Cinque............................................... E3æ Sights (p184) 39 Bar San Calisto ........................................... F4
4 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a 40 Bar Stuzzichini............................................ B2Ripa............................................................ F6 41 Freni e Frizioni............................................. E3
5 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola ..........................C4 42 Gianicolo 150............................................... B26 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di 43 Il Barretto .................................................... D5
Palazzo Corsini.........................................D2 44 La Meschita ................................................. E37 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2 45 Libreria del Cinema .................................... F48 Gianicolo ......................................................C3 46 Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà .......................... E29 Museo della Repubblica Romana e 47 Ombre Rosse .............................................. E3
della Memoria Garibaldina......................B410 Museo di Roma in Trastevere ...................E3 ý Entertainment (p192)11 Orto Botanico ..............................................D2 48 Alcazar Cinema ...........................................F512 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.............E4 49 Anfiteatro del Tasso....................................B113 Porta Settimiana.........................................D2 50 Big Mama..................................................... F614 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa 51 Lettere Caffè Gallery.................................. F6
di San Pietro in Montorio ........................D4 52 Nuovo Sacher ..............................................F7
ú Eating (p189) þ Shopping (p193)15 Artigiano Innocenti .................................... G4 53 Almost Corner Bookshop.......................... E316 Bir & Fud ......................................................E2 54 Bartolucci .................................................... E317 Ciuri Ciuri ..................................................... E5 55 La Cravatta su Misura ............................... H518 Da Augusto ..................................................E3 56 Officina della Carta..................................... E219 Da Enzo ........................................................H5 57 Piazza San Cosimato ................................. E520 Da Olindo......................................................D3 58 Polvere Di Tempo ....................................... E321 Da Teo ......................................................... H4 59 Porta Portese Flea Market ........................ G722 Dar Poeta .....................................................E3 60 Roma-Store................................................. F423 Fatamorgana ............................................... E5 61 Scala Quattorodici Clothing...................... E324 Fior di Luna .................................................. F425 Forno la Renella .......................................... F3 ÿ Sleeping (p262)26 Glass Hostaria .............................................E3 Arco del Lauro................................... (see 66)27 La Botticella.................................................E3 62 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D228 La Gensola .................................................. H4 63 Donna Camilla Savelli ................................ D329 Le Mani in Pasta..........................................H5 64 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E330 Meridionale .................................................. F4 65 La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore .....................D131 Panattoni..................................................... G4 66 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H432 Paris.............................................................. F4 67 Residenza Santa Maria.............................. F433 Pizzeria Ivo................................................... F4 68 Villa Della Fonte .......................................... E3
374
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Mura .......................................................... C1 17 Esc Atelier ....................................................C12 Chiesa di Santa Croce in 18 Il Tiaso.......................................................... D4
Gerusalemme...........................................B4 19 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B33 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ D1 20 Micca Club................................................... A34 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4 21 People .......................................................... B25 Pastificio Cerere ......................................... C1 22 Solea ............................................................ B26 Porta Maggiore ...........................................B3 23 Vicious Club ................................................ B3
24 Vini e Olii ...................................................... D4ú Eating (p174)
7 Formula Uno................................................B2 ý Entertainment (p171)8 I Porchettoni................................................D4 25 Circolo degli Artisti.....................................D49 Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni 26 Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti .......B1
Fassi...........................................................A3 27 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A210 Pigneto Quarantuno ...................................D411 Pommidoro..................................................B2 þ Shopping (p180)12 Primo ............................................................D4 28 Claudio Sanò............................................... B213 Said............................................................... B1 29 Iosselliani..................................................... D414 Sushiko......................................................... B1 30 La Grande Officina ..................................... B215 Tram Tram...................................................C2
Ø Sports & Activities (p323)31 Arcult............................................................ D4
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æ Top Sights p222 31 Il Gianfornaio................................................B1 1 Museo e Galleria Borghese........................ F6 32 La Scala ai Parioli ....................................... E3 2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia...D5 33 Metamorfosi................................................ E4
34 Molto ............................................................ E3 æ Sights p225 35 Pallotta..........................................................B1 3 Auditorium Parco della Musica.................C3 ReD..................................................... (see 40) 4 Bioparco....................................................... E5 36 Serenella...................................................... F6 5 Casina delle Civette .................................. H6 6 Casino dei Principi ..................................... H6 û Drinking & Nightlife p232 7 Casino Nobile ............................................. H6 37 Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio .......................B1 8 Catacombe di Priscilla .............................. H3 38 Piper Club.................................................... G5 9 Explora – Museo dei Bambini di Roma ....C5 Fontana delle Rane ...........................(see 20) ý Entertainment p233 10 Foro Italico ...................................................A2 39 Accademia Filarmonica Romana ............. B3 11 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna ..........D5 40 Auditorium Parco della Musica ................ C3 12 Giardino del Lago........................................D6 41 Casa del Cinema......................................... E6 13 Musei di Villa Torlonia ............................... H6 42 Cinema dei Piccoli ...................................... E6 14 Museo Carlo Bilotti .....................................D6 43 Silvano Toti Globe Theatre........................ E5 15 Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di 44 Stadio Flaminio........................................... C3 Roma (MACRO) ...................................... G6 45 Teatro Olimpico.......................................... B3 16 Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo (MAXXI)........................................B3 þ Shopping p233 17 Piazza di Siena ............................................E6 46 Anticaglie a Ponte Milvio ............................B1 18 Ponte Milvio .................................................B2 47 Antiquariato in Piazza Verdi ......................F5 19 Porta Pia.......................................................G7 48 Bagheera ..................................................... D3 20 Quartiere Coppedè .....................................G5 49 Bulzoni ......................................................... E3 21 Stadio dei Marmi.........................................A2 50 Francesca Villa............................................ E4 22 Villa Ada .......................................................G3 51 Goody Music ...............................................C6 23 Villa Borghese .............................................E6 52 Libreria l'Argonauta ...................................G6 24 Villa Poniatowski .........................................C5 MAXXI .................................................(see 16) 25 Villa Torlonia............................................... H6 Notebook........................................... (see 40)
ú Eating p231 Ø Sports & Activities p234 26 Al Settimo Gelo ...........................................B5 53 Stadio Olimpico .......................................... A2 27 Bar Pompi .................................................... B1 28 Caffè delle Arti.............................................D5 ÿ Sleeping p264 29 Cinecaffè......................................................E6 54 Casa Montani ..............................................C6 30 Ensô.............................................................. B1 55 Hotel Villa Mangili .......................................D4
379
vILL
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Duncan GarwoodCoordinating Author; Ancient Rome; Centro Storico; Vatican City, Borgo & Prati; San Giovanni to Testaccio; Villa Borghese & Northern Rome Born in the UK, Duncan now lives near Rome with his Italian wife and two bilingual kids. His first memories of the city he now calls home date to 1996 when he arrived on an overnight train from Bari and found himself virtually the only visitor in Piazza Navona and St Peter’s Basilica. Since then he has worked on the past
five editions of Lonely Planet’s Rome guide as well as the Rome Pocket guide and a whole host of LP publications, including guidebooks to Sicily, Sardinia and Naples and the Food Lover’s Guide to the World. He has also written on Italy for newspapers and magazines. Duncan also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand sections of this book as well as the Transport chapter and part of the Sleeping chapter.
Abigail BlasiTridente, Trevi & the Quirinale; Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo; Trastevere & Gianicolo; Southern Rome; Day Trips from Rome Abigail first moved to Rome in 2003. She got married alongside Lago Bracciano, her first son was born in Rome, and she nowadays divides her time between Rome, Puglia and London. She has worked on four editions of Lonely Planet’s Italy and Rome guides, wrote the Best of Rome guide, and co-wrote the first edition
of Puglia & Basilicata. She also regularly writes on Italy for various publications, including Lonely Planet Traveller. Abigail also wrote the Eating, Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment and Shopping overviews in the Plan section, as well as the Directory A-Z and part of the Sleeping chapter.
Read more about Duncan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/duncangarwood
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Nov 2013IsBN 978 1 74220 578 6© Lonely planet 2013 photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely planet and the Lonely planet logo are trademarks of Lonely planet and are registered in the Us patent and Trademark office and in other countries. Lonely planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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