DunfanaghyDunfanaghyRiding StablesRiding Stables

are located at the rearare located at the rearof Arnolds Hotel, through aof Arnolds Hotel, through apretty walled gardenpretty walled garden..

The yard has anThe yard has anamazing viewamazing view

of the bayof the bayfrom its high position. from its high position.

62 | The Equestrian

It’s safe to say that Donegal is at the farthest northern reaches of the country. About four hours’ drive from Dublin, the roads are, thankfully, well developed and, the closer to the county you get, the more incredible the scenery becomes.

Full of mountains, loughs, rugged fields and surging waves from the Atlantic,it’s nothing short of spectacular. As we rose over the road and down into the village of Dunfanaghy itself, we were met with the bluest ocean water we’d ever seen, lapping its white swash on to truly rich, golden sands that seemed tostretch for miles.

The stuff of postcards and paintings, it barely seemed real. Why I’d never heard of

this enchanting place before was a mystery.

The village itself is beautiful. Tucked away from the madness of city life, it’s surrounded by the imposing Muckish mountain on one side and the powerful Atlantic ocean on the other.

Dunfanaghy is as traditional as you could imagine a small Irish village to be, yet it has managed to forego any tacky tourist embellishments and, instead, embraces a funky 21st-century vibe, thanks to the surfing schools, pottery studios and art gallery, while still keeping the best of its old-fashioned charm intact.

The heart of the village in every sense of the world is Arnolds Hotel & Riding Stables, our base for two nights. Celebrating 90 years in business, owner Derek Arnold is one of the nicest people you could hope to meet and fiercely

proud of the spectacular, natural amenities the area has to offer.

The hotel is a comfortable hybrid of the new world, with wi-fi available throughout, and the old Irish feel, with welcoming open fires, “sink-into” couches and traditional music in the evenings.

Our large room looked out on to Killahoey Beach and Horn Head beyond, in Sheephaven Bay. The tide had gone out and left in its wake were the yellow sand and pools, which could now be used to walk across to the other side.

Dunfanaghy Riding Stables are located at the rear of the hotel, through

a pretty walled garden. Run by mother-and-daughter team Helen and Niamh McDaid, the yard has an amazing view of the bay from its high position.

Catering for all levels, it runs everything from children’s half-hour lessons to blistering gallops along the beach, as well as a five-day trail ride experience, with riders based at Arnolds Hotel and riding out through the trails and beaches in the impressive surrounding area.

First for us, though, was surfing. Donegal and Sligo are both renowned for their superb beaches and the impressive waves they deliver make it a surfer’s paradise.

With two surfing schools in Dunfanaghy, it’s

clear that

Up in the saddle is the perfect position for getting a view of the Co Donegal landscape.NIAMH O’REILLY finds that riding holidays in Counties

Donegal and Sligo provide so much more than just special moments in the saddle.

Riding Holidays

k-into” couches andic in the evenings.

m looked out on toh and yond, in y. The out and were

d and ould othe

ding ated at the el, through

they deliver make it a surfer’s pay p

With two surfing schools in Dunfanaghy, it’s

clear that

NIAMH O’REILLY AND HER PARTNER, EAMONN – EXPERIENCED RIDER AND ,NOVICE – ENJOY RIDING THROUGH THE GRASS-COVERED DUNES NEAR TRAMORE BEACH.

July 2012 | 63

The north-west of Ireland is somewhere I had never really been, apart from a horrendous school camping trip to Donegal where my fourth-year class

were frog-marched up mountains, made to sleep in eight-person tents and eaten alive by midgies.

Thankfully, I was fortunate enough to blow those unpleasant memories of the region out of my mind when I ventured to both Donegal and Sligo to find out what the two counties have to offer in terms of

action in and out of the saddle. As I was to find out, the area is literally overflowing with must-see places.

My partner, Eamonn, and I set off on a sunny Friday morning for the remote village of Dunfanaghy, Co Donegal. The car was laden with riding hats, boots and an array of coats, old jumpers, hiking boots and rain pants. It was Ireland, after all, and a sprinkling of rain was to be expected – right? Although just how much rain we were to get, I was blissfully unaware of at that point.

The secluded Tramore Beach is one of those visited on The secluded Tramore Beach is one of those visited on a trek from Dunfanaghy Riding Stables.a trek from Dunfanaghy Riding Stables.

Killahoey Beach is another Killahoey Beach is another of Co Donegal’s gems.of Co Donegal’s gems.

Arnolds Hotel is at the heart of the Arnolds Hotel is at the heart of the Donegal village of Dunfanaghy.Donegal village of Dunfanaghy.

this once niche sport is gaining in popularity. We met Duncan Halliday, who runs one school with his business partner Lee Wood.

A curious mix of Patrick Swayze in Point Break and Ulster rugby player Stephen Ferris, Duncan was very much what I had expected of a typical surfer dude. In fact, he called everyone “dude” and “chief” – even the women. Everything was “sweet” and his laid-back approach to life was wonderfully infectious.

He took us and two other beginners to Marble Hill beach, which was sheltered enough to be suitable for novices and, after a quick brief on the sand, it was to the waves.

I gingerly stepped into what I can only describe as the clearest, bluest water I’ve ever seen in Ireland. Awaiting that stabbing pain of coldness to hit my body, I winced – but, thanks to the incredibly warm wet suit, I didn’t feel a thing.

After a few hilarious attempts, I managed to haul myself on to the board with a little help

July 2012 | 65

from Duncan and rode my first wave. It was an incredible feeling of being taken at high speed right on to the shore, where I promptly fell off and into the shallow water, mouth open, of course, and let me tell you the Atlantic is seriously salty.

I didn’t want to get out after an amazing couple of hours in the water, but I knew my muscles wouldn’t thank me in the morning if I stayed in any longer.

That evening, we made the short, five-minute stroll in the sunshine down to The Mill Restaurant, which overlooks New Lake. The house was originally the home of famous watercolour artist Frank Egginton and has been tastefully converted, retaining the unique, country-house feel.

The food is definitely in the gourmet stratosphere and, with many awards to its name, it’s ripe for a Michelin star. Expect local seafood, stunning amuse bouches and top-class service, without the stuffy atmosphere.

Owner Susan, who is the granddaughter of Frank Egginton, filled us in on the local produce and even divulged the

chef’s (her husband Derek Alcorn’s) coveted Guinness bread recipe. They also have the best crème brulée I’ve ever tasted. In short, it’s a must-visit for foodies.

After a great sleep, Saturday morning brought more sunny weather. Despite some aching bones and a touch of chill in the air, it was perfect weather for riding. We took the short stroll to Dunfanaghy Riding School, where Eamonn and I were matched up with our mounts.

Having ridden for 20 years, I was easy enough to pair up and six-year-old skewbald Cassidy was a delightful ride. My partner, having had no riding experience before (apart from crashing an elephant in Thailand), was given the aptly named Guinness. An experienced hand, he never put a hoof wrong.

The beauty of the riding school is that it can cater for all levels. After deciding that

we’d like to be sociable and do the ride together, Niamh mounted up and took us over to Tramore Beach, a secluded gem that can be reached only on foot or horseback.

Traversing through the impressive, grass-covered dunes, we chatted and marvelled at the scenery around us. Stopping for pictures, Niamh said knowingly, with a laugh: “You haven’t seen anything yet.”

She wasn’t wrong. Coming over the brow of the highest point of the dunes, we were met with the roar of the wide, open Atlantic. Supremely blue waves crashed into the golden beach as only three brave souls walked along the shore, enjoying the spectacle.

Normally, this is where the experienced riders go for an almighty blast along the water’s edge, but on this occasion, seeing that we were catering for both novice and experienced levels, we were happy just to soak up the sea air.

We hacked back through the forest and dunes, enjoying a few trots and canters along the way, as Niamh filled us in on the

local stories. Two hours later, and it was time to dismount and bid farewell to our trusty steeds.

The verdict from Eamonn? Fantastic – although he did succumb to the famous John Wayne walk the next morning with which so many first-timers will be familiar. On Saturday night, we enjoyed a superb meal in Arnolds Hotel and some music in the Whiskey Bar.

Sunday morning saw us say goodbye to Dunfanaghy and, as we drove by the impressive Glenveagh National Park and down towards Sligo, we both secretly hoped to come back to this hidden treasure in the future.

Later that morning, we arrived at Island View Riding Stables, in Grange, Co Sligo. The weather began to turn to stormy gales, but we were still given a warm welcome by the sunny Ursula Schweiger O’Connor.

Originally from Bavaria, she moved here almost 20 years ago after falling in love with more than just the yard, marrying owner Raymond O’Connor. His family

originally lived out on an island that they owned and later settled on the mainland in the 1950s, setting up a cattle farm, which has now expanded to include the stables that the pair now run.

The yard has a unique character and quirkiness to it. Expect to meet a delightful melee of chickens, hens, rabbits, ducks, dogs and, of course, horses dotted around the yard. The tack room is a total gem, complete with two church pews sitting among the delicious smell of leather saddles and horse’s coats.

The stables cater for all levels of riders, from children and beginners right up to experienced riders. Ursula took us out in a custom-built carriage, pulled by two beautiful carriage Cobs, Topper and Poitin. With the side zipped up and closed off from the wind, it was toasty inside, as we made our way around the back lanes in the shadow of the mighty Benbulben Mountain.

As we ambled along, Ursula told us that Topper used to pull carriages in Blackpool and succumbed to laminitis. His fate would have been sealed had she not bought him

After a fewAfter a fewhilarious hilarious attemptsattempts,,I managed toI managed tohaul myself onhaul myself onto the boardto the boardwith a little helpwith a little helpfrom Duncan andfrom Duncan androde my first rode my first wavewave. .

64 | The Equestrian

Riding Holidays‘COMING OVER THE BROW OF THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE DUNES, WE WERE MET WITH THE ROAR OF

THE WIDE, OPEN ATLANTIC. SUPREMELY BLUE WAVES CRASHED INTO THE GOLDEN BEACH.’

Taking to the waves with one of Dunfanaghy’s surf schools, Taking to the waves with one of Dunfanaghy’s surf schools, such as Narosa Life, is a way of tackling another sport while such as Narosa Life, is a way of tackling another sport while

taking time out of the saddle on a riding holiday.taking time out of the saddle on a riding holiday.

‘A curious mix of Patrick Swayze in Point Break and Ulster rugby player Stephen Ferris, Duncan was very much what I had expected of a typical surfer dude.’

Chef Derek Alcorn makes The Mill a Chef Derek Alcorn makes The Mill a must-visit restaurant in Dunfanaghy.must-visit restaurant in Dunfanaghy.

and nursed him back to health. He now has a varied and happy life with the O’Connor family.

We also saw one of Ursula’s new arrivals, a beautiful foal born that day, and little did I know at the time that they decided to call it O’Reilly’s Storm after my gusty visit!

After the carriage ride, we checked into our accommodation for the night, the Radisson Blue Hotel, Sligo. Lucky enough to be housed in the premier Coney Island Suite, we had spectacular views of Sligo

Bay and probably the comfiest beds in the world. If you fancy a bit of pampering, treat yourself to this wonderful suite.

Later that afternoon, as the weather took a turn for the worse, ramping up to gale force 8/9 and driving rain, I bravely (or madly!) went back to the stables for a shortened version of the famous Island Trek, which normally lasts four to five hours, taking in their privately owned O’Connor Island.

Ursula kindly boxed up our mounts and brought them to the island starting-point, cutting out the long trek across the

Atlantic Channel, which in better weather would have been stunning.

I was given Jacqueline, a beautiful, 17hh bay beauty who neighed enthusiastically as she exited the horsebox. I could have sworn she was saying: “Are you mad to be riding out in this weather?”

But, in reality, she was probably just greeting her family herd, who roam the private island. This was where she was born and bred, so to Jacqueline, despite the abysmal weather, she was home.

We popped up on our horses and set off around the rear of the island away from the

harsh wind of the sea. “You probably don’t ride out in weather like this where you’re from,” said Ursula, with a giggle. Indeed, we didn’t and I then felt like a bit of a jelly baby because clearly, out on the west coast of Ireland, this sort of weather is old hat.

Still, we did do well to cope with the almighty gales as we trotted and gently cantered along sand and rocks, with the dunes hulking to the left and Benbulben on the horizon, to the right.

We then made it to the stone ruins of the O’Connor family home. Among the stone walls were Ursula and Raymond’s horses. Fiercely proud of her stunningly beautiful herd, with white blazes and long manes, Ursula pointed out Jacqueline’s mother, father and half-siblings, who came over for an inquisitive sniff.

In better weather, riders can dismount here and have a snack while the horses graze. Bravely, we rounded the island and headed back into the biting wind, through the high dunes.

“Are you ready to go a little bit faster?” Ursula shouted over the howling wind. I

nodded, excited to go for a full-on beach gallop, but slightly terrified at the monster wind and what my horse might make of it.

I shouldn’t have worried, though, because Jacqueline was a total lady and faced head on into the wind, without a bother on her. We strode over the dunes and down on to the beach, met by ferocious waves and the guttural roar of the gale force wind.

Soon, we were at full gallop, the wind and rain pounding our faces and the sand curiously floating above the shore, flying back into our eyes. It was wild, it was thrilling, it was exhilarating.

After another long gallop on the beach, we crossed to the shaded side of the island and made our way to the horsebox. Jacqueline

neighed again, but this time it was clear that she was saying: “I’m happy to see the horsebox!”

Soaked, yet on a total high, I said my goodbyes to the team and all the animals, and headed back to the Radisson for a much needed shower. We dined in Eala Bhan, in Sligo town, overlooking the River Garvogue, that evening and the fillet steak was a carnivore’s dream.

Monday morning, and my muscles were singing Dixie. Thankfully, we called in at the Voya Seaweed Baths for one of it signature treatments – a warm bath filled with organic hand-harvested seaweed, which deeply moisturises the skin, increases circulation and promotes healing. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable weekend, one we hope to repeat very soon.

Arnolds Hotel: The horse riding Sheephaven Bay weekend package costs €177 pp. www.arnoldshotel.com

Dunfanaghy Stables: The Tramore beach ride costs €60 for two hours and €30 for one hour. www.dunfanaghystables.com

Narosa Life Surf School: A 2:1 private surfi ng lesson costs €60 and a group lesson €30 in the high season (July and August). Boards and wet suits can be hired.www.narosalife.com

The Mill Restaurant: Dinner is €41 (children’s menu available).www.themillrestaurant.com

Island View Riding Stables: The four-hour Island Trek costs €90 for an adult and €65 for a child, and the carriage ride is €80. www.islandviewridingstables.com

Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, Sligo: Rooms start at €71 per room, per night. Plus family riding packages with Island View Riding Stables. www.radissonblu.ie/hotel-sligo, www.activitynorthwest.com

Voya Seaweed Baths: Single bathingroom €25, double €50.www.voyaseaweedbaths.com

Eala Bhan, Sligo: The Early Bird Menu is €19.95. www.ealabhan.ie

For more information on holidays in Ireland, log on to www.discoverireland.ie

IN AND OUT OFTHE SADDLE

Ursula kindly boxed up ourmounts and brought them tthe the islisland starting-point, cutout ou the longlong tre trek ack acrosss the thee

Soon, we were atSoon, we were atfull gallopfull gallop, , the wind and rain the wind and rain poundingpoundingour facesour facesand the sand and the sand curiously floating curiously floating above the shore, above the shore, flying back intoflying back intoour eyes.our eyes.

66 | The Equestrian

Benbulben Mountain forms a stunning backdrop to Benbulben Mountain forms a stunning backdrop to beach rides around Grange, Co Sligo.beach rides around Grange, Co Sligo.

Beach treks are a speciality at Island Beach treks are a speciality at Island View Riding Stables.View Riding Stables.

July 2012 | 67

Arnolds Hotel is Arnolds Hotel is at the heart of the at the heart of the Donegal village of Donegal village of

Dunfanaghy.Dunfanaghy.

The Coney Island The Coney Island Suite, at the Suite, at the

Radisson Hotel, Co Radisson Hotel, Co Grange, provides Grange, provides

spectacular views of spectacular views of Sligo Bay.Sligo Bay.

‘I BRAVELY (OR MADLY!) WENT BACK TO THE STABLES FOR A SHORTENED VERSION OF THE FAMOUS ISLAND TREK,

WHICH NORMALLY LASTS FOUR TO FIVE HOURS, TAKING IN THEIR PRIVATELY OWNED O’CONNOR ISLAND.’

Island View Riding Island View Riding Stales, in Grange, offers Stales, in Grange, offers a leisurely carriage a leisurely carriage ride to the mountains, ride to the mountains, courtesy of two courtesy of two beautiful Cobs.beautiful Cobs.

The Dunes, on O’Connor Island, form part of an Island View Riding

Stables trek in Co Sligo.

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