Coastal research on protection, environment and utilization

1. Coastal processes and shore protection2. Regional Sediment Transport (from a forest to a coast

through a river)3. Nearshore current system4. A-P relationship of Inlet 5. Protection of turtle nesting beaches6. Monitoring of waves and environments7. Monitoring of nearshore environment in Fukushima8. etc.

Prof. Ryuichiro Nishi(Advisor to President) Faculty of Fisheries, Kagoshima University

Major Research topics;

Research Themes of Coastal Environment Lab.

Location of our University and coastal environment in Kagoshima Pref. Kagoshima Pref. is 600km long (nearly 1/5 of Japan length). The length of coastal line is nearly 2,700km ( length of coastal line in Japan is 35,000km)

Kagoshima Univ.

Kagoshima University is on Kagoshima Bay and between the Pacific Ocean and East China Sea.

Mt. Sakutajima

Coastal disasters; save coastal community and coast

Research themes

Shore protection; stability of coastal structures

Hokkaido

Kagoshima

Shore protection; beach nourishment in Japan

0 10 20 30 400

50000

100000

150000

200000

250000

300000

Volu

me o

f nourish

ment（

m3 ）

Index number of project

Volume of nourishment

Annual beach nourishment

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 180

200

400

600

800

1000

Pro

ject

lengt

h (

m)

Index number of project

Project length

1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 20020

10000

20000

30000

40000

50000

60000

70000

80000

Volu

me o

f be

ach n

ourish

ment

(m3 )

Project year

Shizuoka coast, Shizuoka Pref.

Photo. By Prof. Dean

Inlet; A-P relationship and inlet stability

106 107 108 109

100

1000

10000

100000

狭口

断面

積 (m

2)

タイダルプリズム（流量） (m3)

Japan China U.S.A. New Zealand Vietnam India

A-P relationships in different countries;Japan; A = 1.291 10-4P0.955

China; A = 1.748 10-4P0.980

U.S.A.; A = 1.53 10-4P0.954

New Zealand (North Island and total);A = 1.68 10-4P0.950

A = 1.051 10-5P1.137

Vietnam; A = 3.041 10-13.0P2.056

India; A = 2.420 10-4P0.913

A global A-P relationship;A = 1.750 10-04P0.952

P = 9116A1.054

Breaking waves in coastal water

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 160

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Sig

nific

ant

wav

e he

ight

(m)

D ata num ber (every one hour)

S ign ificant wave height during a storm ST .1 ST .2 ST .4

4 5 6 7 8 90.0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

GA

MM

A(H

2/h 2,H

4/h 4)

Significant wave height(m)

GAMMA（H/h) for stable wave height over a coral reef

ST.2 ST.4

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 160

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

Wav

e p

erio

d (s

ec)

Data number (every one hour)

Wave period of significant wave ST.1 ST.2 ST.4

Coastal geomorphology

A spawning area of silver-stripe round herring

Coastal lake砂嘴

Island raised from sea bottom

Wind blowout on a sand dune

Sand spit

Coral reef (data by JCG)

Cliff erosion

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 20100

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

上陸

数

年

宮崎県デ－タ 鹿児島県デ－タ

Sea turtle protection& beach preservation

Miyazaki Pref.Kagoshima Pref.

Year

Num

ber o

f lan

ding

s

Regional transport of sediment and nutrients

Nearshore current system; for a reduction of drowning accidents in coastal water

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 260.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2.0

2.2

2.4

20 m

inut

es a

vera

ge v

el.(

m/s

) & T

idal

lev

el(m

)

E llapsed time(day)

20 m inutes average velocity(m/s) Tidal level(m )

・1,731 drowning accidents happened in rivers, lakes and coast in Japan in 2001, in which 1,058 people were dead .・963 drowning accidents happened in the sea in which 333 people passed away (35%) in Japan in 2003. ( JCG annual report)

Protection of carbonate beach

Simulation; for an environmental assessment

tVQ

ece

in

eVtV 1)(

Coastal environment; Coastal forest & monitoring techniques

Inner structure of coastal forest on a barrier island

How wonderful to discover something and apply the knowledge to realize a sustainable development!

Thank you very much for your kind attention!

Q&A time！

How wonderful to learn! R.Nishi