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REPLACING THE PA28 GLARESHIELD “C” MODEL

“PLEASE READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING” Over the years the glareshield that Piper installed on their panel has in many cases become an eyesore due to its being subjected to the heat buildup from the sun beating down through the windshield(s). The vinyl or plastic covering was installed during the build up of the forward cabin even before the windshield molding was installed and therefore was riveted in place with the molding. Not such a bad idea if you never plan on having to replace it. But since the planes are lasting far longer than the vinyl, the glareshield has become a problem for many. There are some fiberglass glareshields available as aftermarket options. I have read from those who have them in most cases have been pleased with them other than some say they are difficult and time consuming to install. Others have said they do not like the reflective glare they experience. I for one have never made the installation but I have removed one to install our glareshield and I would be concerned about the hard surface of the fiberglass in the event of an impact. By all definitions you could also call our glareshield a faux glareshield insomuch as it looks like its part of the panel when in reality it just lays on top of the old Glareshield area. Not only does this greatly add to the beauty of your plane, the eyebrow is soft should you ever hit it from a sudden stop. Before I get into the placement of the new glareshield in your plane, I’m sure all of you are wondering about the legal aspects. I have discussed this to great length with the FAA here in Oklahoma City and it has been their opinion that this is only a minor cosmetic addition to the plane and needs no approval other than a log entry. If you are concerned, I would suggest you discuss the Glareshield placement in your plane with your local FSDO and if they are uncomfortable with just a log book entry, you could request that your mechanic submit a 337 and request they grant a field approval based on the installation has been previously granted Field approval by the FSDO in Oklahoma City. Due to the many different models of PA28 it will be hard to provide specific instructions. I will try to assist with some general instructions regarding the changes that you may need to make. If you have any specific questions regarding your airplane, please feel free to call me at any time. Many of the models have hand holds incorporated in the top of the instrument panel. I personally feel these are not needed and actually distract from the beauty of the new glareshield and age the airplane since new Pipers do not have them. We have not provided for the hand holds and should you decide you want to keep them; you will need to cut the hand openings in the new glare shield. Next regarding the instrument panel covers. Remove the plastic instrument overlays (over the instruments) on the Pilots and co-pilots panel to rework the covers. I have found the best way to trim off the eyebrow is with a Dremil tool using a cut off disc. Another is with a coping saw with the blade turned 90 degrees. Make the cut along the top of the cover (with about 1/8 inch beyond the radius) and completely remove the molded eyebrow. Sand or file the edge of the overlay instrument covers to a smooth surface. The new glare shield will

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cover most of the cut edge. If you find after cutting off the eyebrow that a portion of the panel still shows, we have provided a small strip of the Glareshield material covering that you can cut to cover the exposed portion. Just glue the trim to the panel using contact cement. There are two ways to do the placement of the glareshield in your plane. One is with the windshields installed and the other is with the windshields removed. The glareshield may be removed without removing the windshields. But there is a problem in removing the screws attaching rectangular defroster out lets to the top of the old glareshield. I personally would recommend removing the windshields rather than fight with the screws. Please note that the reinstallation of the windshields must be done by or under the supervision of a licensed mechanic holding at least a FAA “A” certificate. I have done the replacement of the glareshield both ways and prefer doing it with the windshield(s) removed. I feel removing the windshields is an easy task and it also allows me to make sure the windshields are good and sealed when I reinstall them, especially due to their history of the windshields leaking. For the record, I have removed both sides in less than 10 minutes and reinstalled both with new sealant in less than an hour. If adding new windshields, it takes another hour to clean off the old adhesive and prepare for proper fitting and sealing. The rectangular defroster outlets are attached with two screws and self locking nuts and must be removed to install the new glareshield. These nuts can be difficult to remove. It will require a 5/16 socket with long extension (or nut driver) on the underside while a helper holds the head of the screws on the top side. If the windshields are removed, I recommend just drilling out the heads. New hardware for the defroster outlets comes with the kit. On the existing glareshield, the panel is covered with cloth or vinyl. This material extends over the entire original glareshield starting on each side where the instrument panel is next to the windshield. This area is very close and can cause the new glareshield to be very tight between the instrument panel and the windshield. I recommend you take an Exacto knife and remove about six inches of the material on each side. This will make the placement of the new glareshield much easier and the new glareshield will cover this entire area. Place the new glareshield on top of the area above the instrument panel forcing it under the windshield molding around the entire lower edge of the windshield to the vertical windshield posts (make sure it is on top of the old portion of the covering, if applicable). Don’t be concerned if you have small bumps on top of your panel, the new Glareshield will conform over them with a smooth contour. In the area near the center post, make sure the glareshield doesn’t get caught on the rivets. If it does, the glareshield will not extend under the molding. NOTE

When positioning the new Glareshield in place, do not be afraid to be a little aggressive, especially as it conforms around the sides of the instrument panel near the windshield. Just hit the eyebrow with your open fist forcing it down into the cavity between the windshield and under the windshield molding above the firewall. Continue forcing it down until it is laying flush on top of the instrument panel. With

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the new Glareshield in position, verify the holes for the defroster outlets on the Glareshield line up with the defroster openings on top of your old panel. We have found that in some cases when Piper punched the holes for the defrosters were not always exactly in the same location and you may need to cut or enlarge the existing holes in the aluminum fascia to enable you to install the defroster outlets through the new Glareshield. If you find this to be the case with your installation, you will need to temporally remove the defroster SCAT hose and defroster outlet. Due to the aluminum being only .025, it will be very easy to change the hole for the defroster hose fitting to line up with the opening in the new Glareshield. You will need to provide new holes for the defroster outlet, but more than likely it will fit just fine. Just make sure it is all the way forward against the windshield molding.

If the defroster holes line up, there is no need to remove the round defroster outlets (under the rectangular outlets) or SCAT hoses under the instrument panel. When the rectangular outlets are reinstalled on top of the new glareshield there will be no air loss through the outlets. Remove the glareshield from the panel for installation of the rectangular outlets previously removed. Observe on the new glareshield where the defroster outlets will be positioned, we have installed four screws with special round T-nuts. Remove the screws and install the defroster outlets with the air slots facing to the rear. Do not over tighten. Place the new glareshield on top of your panel making sure it is all the way forward under the windshield.

NOTE You might wish to loosen a few of the screws (3 on each side) of the windshield retaining strip to make it easier to position the ends of the glareshield between the instrument panel and the windshields. Be sure to retighten the retaining screws when finished. Mix a small amount of dishwasher soap and water and brush the soapy solution on the edge of the glareshield where it fits between the instrument panel and windshield. This will aid in positioning.

There are three holes drilled in the panel and marked with chalk. Using a small prick punch or angle drill, punch or drill three #30 drill holes in the top of your panel. Make sure you just penetrate the sheet metal on top of your panel. Install the flat head screws and washers in the holes just prepared. Do not over tighten. The washer and screw should just be flat with the top of the glareshield. This completes the glareshield placement on top of the panel. Reinstall the plastic overlays and make a log book entry. I recommend the following: Replaced the old glareshield covering by placing a new glareshield on top of instrument panel in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions. This installation is a minor cosmetic change requiring no 337. Name and Date

WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION

You as the owner may also remove the windshields but when it comes to reinstalling the windshields, this must be done by or supervised by a licensed mechanic holding at least an “Airframe” Mechanics Certificate.

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I have been using a system that is easy, very inexpensive, does not use the foam tape and provides a windshield that is absolutely water tight, easy to apply and cleans up with plain water Clean all of the old sealer, tape, silicone (or what have you) from the windshield channel, trim molding and windshield(s). I highly recommend PolySeamseal All purpose Adhesive caulking made by OSI Sealants. It comes in clear as well as white. Use the clear for the windshield installation and the white for the final out side sealing. It can be purchased from Home Depot, Lowes or Ace hardware. Lay a heavy bead of the sealant on the fuselage frame work (on one side only) for the windshield, (keep it ¼ in below the edges so it won’t squeeze out on the inside). Fill inside the upper channel and side channel where the windshield slips into place. Apply two heavy beads of the sealant down the center post. Place the windshield into position and press against the sealer. Repeat the process for the other side. With both windshields in position, lay a heavy bead of the sealer down the center post between the Plexiglas and on the edge of the Plexiglas and along the bottom edge of the windshield making sure you leave no gaps. Apply a large amount of the sealer in the center at the very bottom, totally filling the open cavity and install the center and lower trim strips. When you have all the screws installed, clean up the residue (sealer/caulk) with water). Note: the clear Poly-seamseal is white when you use it and dries clear. When all finished, mask off (with ¼ inch vinyl tape) the windshield around the outside periphery leaving a 5/16 in gap between the tape and the windshield molding. Apply a bead of the white Polyseamseal around the entire area masked of and smooth off with your finger (keeping your finger wet at all times). When the bead is complete, remove the tape very carefully pulling away from the beaded area. “Do not wait until the Polyseamseal is dry before removing the tape.” Please note that you will need your mechanic to assist you with the windshield installation and log entry. You are now ready to enjoy your new glareshield. Aircraft Door Seals, LLC. 817-567-8020

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MAJOR REPAIR AND ALTERATION(Aid;;;,iowerplanl, Propeller' or Appliance)

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The original glare shield provided by the manufacturer was vinyl glued to the top of. the instrument panel. Over the years this. material cracked and deteriorated to a pointit became useless as a glare striilA *d

T eyesore for the owners.

This 337 is to provide a field approval for a replacement glareshield.

ne-ovea seats tci facilitate removal of defroster outlets on top of the existinginstrument panel glareshield.

t. Disconnected the two SCAT hoses from two defroster outlets on the underside ofexisting glare shield and rernoved outlets from glare shield.

NOTEThe new glareshield is fabricated from light weight temperaturestabilizrd .040 Lexan (polycarbonate) and covered with FAA approvedl/8 inch high density foam rubber and FAA approved non-glare vinyl. Fabrication of the glareshield was performed by FAAcertified repair station CK9R76U located at Srurdance Airpark, YukorqOK. This replaces the original vinyl glued to the top of the originalpanel.

Placed the new glare shield in place on top of the instnrment panel wrlil it wasresting in the most forward underthe windshield molding.Using the four predrilled holes in the new glare shield. Drilled four #30 pilotholpg for secuing the eyebrow portion of the glare shield to the top of theinstrurnent panel. Installed four 43135-017-24A counter sunk washers, and fourMS2L207-D8R8A flat head screws securing the glare shield to the top of panel.Reinstalled the defroster outlets in the existing glareshield using the pre-punchedholes in new glareshield and reattached the defroster SCAT tubing.Reinstalled seats and enter€d change in aircraft records.Due to the simplistic nature of this installation, no ICA is requiredTotal weight of the new glareshield is 20 oz. and will not require a change to thewt. and bal.

E looitionat Sheets Are Attached

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