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Redwood FencesFor All Reasons

Redwood fences—capturing the greatoutdoors for you

There are many ways a thought-fully designed fence can touch yourlife. Once you sink the posts and sethammer to nail, the results can betransformational, especially whenyou work with redwood—one ofnature’s most beautiful, functionaland enduring materials.

This booklet will stimulate your imagination by providing youwith a wealth of creative redwoodfence designs. You’ll also find the necessary step-by-step constructiontechniques for planning, designingand building your fence.

REDWOOD FENCES FORALL REASONS 2Fence ideas and detail drawings

CHOOSE THE RIGHT STYLE 10Questions and considerations

Design your fence 10Establish layout priorities Draw a site planMake a rough layoutLegal considerations

BUILD YOUR FENCE 11Lumber grades and usesGarden gradesArchitectural grades

Posts and rails 12Set postsAdd rails

Attach fenceboards 13Nail-on fencing stylesInset fencing stylesNails and fasteners

BUILD AND HANG A GATE 15Step-by-step constructionHardware options

FINISHES 16

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Clockwise from top: a simple inset board-and-board fence encloses a patio; 2x4 walltreatment allows filtration of light and air through to a spa and deck; craftsman stylegate with an open trellis creates an inviting entrance.

© CRA, 1994

Redwood fences forall reasons

There is something deeply satisfying about a fence. Whetherwe’re talking about a simple, rough-hewn structure that meandersaround your property or an intricately designed barrier for apool and patio, a fence adds qualityto your personal spaces.

A perimeter fence is an attractiveway to separate your property fromthe neighbors and to more fully per-sonalize the land around your home.If there are children next door, asolid fence can help keep baseballsfrom rolling into your flower beds,

and it can discourage passers-byfrom taking an occasional shortcutacross a carefully clipped lawn.

Fences are also great for thosewho value privacy. Cozy spaces can be fashioned for reading andrelaxing that are totally shelteredfrom the outside world, or you cansection off larger areas—even anentire yard—to form an area that ispersonal and protected.

Fences also define areas for specialized use, such as a pool andpatio, a dog run, or an area for a private garden, while smaller sections of fences can be employedas an integral part of the property’soverall landscaping design.

For the security-minded, a solidsurrounding structure serves as apsychological, as well as a physical,deterrent to intruders.

Depending on where your homeis located, noise and traffic from anadjacent road can be bothersome, orprevailing winds and harsh sunlightmay interfere with your enjoymentof the outdoors. By softeningsounds and providing a barrier towind and sun, a fence can extendthe time you spend outdoors andincrease the pleasure of outdoor living. In addition, by reshaping theexterior spaces, a fence will con-tribute to your home’s overallambiance, appearance and value.

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Window box design This perimeter fence affords both maximum privacy and an opportunity toprovide a backdrop for plantings. Though projecting a highly finished look, the fenceis made from an economical grade of redwood. The Merchantable grade redwood used for the fenceboards con-tains a combinationof heartwood andsapwood. A 2x4 intermediate rail adds design interest.

Sturdy screen dividerThe screen divider has an attractively massive look with diagonal fenceboardsadding a touch of lightness to the solid,box-like design. Knot-containing gardengrades of redwood—Construction Heartand Construction Common—are ideal for a structure of this type. These gradesprovide the strengthand durability redwoodis known for at an economical price.

6'0"

18"

18"

2"x6 cap

1"x8" fencing

2"x4" rail

6"x6" post

2"x6" rail2"x4" trim

2"x6"2"x6" cap1"x8"

2"x4"

2"x4" 2"x6" cap4"x4"

6'0"

4"x6" post2"x4" 1"x4"

4"x6" rail

4"x6" post

2"x4" framing

1"x4" fencing

4"x6" rail

4"x6" rail

2"x4" framing

Post-board-and-rail fenceHere is an ideal design for enclosing aback yard or corner lot. The height of the fence effectively screens out streetsights and sounds, and the spacing ofthe boards can be varied to accommodate a specified amount ofair flow and privacy.Built of Clear graderedwood, the con-trasting sapwood-heartwood contentadds color interest tothe design.

Knotty, rustic and functionalA rustic fence of Construction Heart redwood defines a property line. The fence is personalized with built-in benchesand planters to add extra beauty and liveability to a house and yard. Thetrellis-shaded fenceprovides maximum privacy and protectionfrom wind while serving as anattractive support for flowering vines.

Gabled hillside fenceA series of redwood fence panels arestepped along a sloping site to create astructure of startling originality. Sectionsare built with Construction Heart 4x4posts, 2x4 frames and 1x2 and 1x6 redwood fencing. Whimsical gabledredwood “roofs”alternate with sections of 1x1 upright boards.

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6'6"

1"x4" and1"x8" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x4" rails

1"x4" and 1"x8"

2"x4"

4"x4"

2"x4" blocking2"x4" rail

6'4"

1"x8" and1"x4" fencing

4"x6" post

2"x4"trellis

1"x8" and 1"x4" 4"x6"

1"x4"

2"x6" notched rail

2"x6"

2"x4" rails

1"x4" verticalnailer

6'0"

2"x2" 1"x10" 1"x6"

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

double 1"x2" and 1"x6" fencing

4"x4" post

1"x2" nailer

1"x2" nailer

1"x6" and 1"x2" 4"x4"

1"x2"

1"x2" uprightsor 1"x6"

1"x1" nailer

2"x4"

Each 8-foot module of this geometrically-shaped perimeter fence consists of 1x6’stopped with five 18-inch squares crossedwith 2x4’s. This design adds character tothe post-and-board security fence.

A solid board fence of Construction Heart redwood divides and makes private a commonly shared yard behind a SanFrancisco Victorian duplex. Lattice top andfinials add old-fashioned, romantic charm.

To distinguish two separate entrances, thedesigner created this divider fence withlacy redwood lattice panels. Both sidespresent an equally finished look.

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Craftsman-style fence This fence is characterized by the use ofrounded edges and custom craftsmanship.Situated along a front and side yard, thefence echoes both the Japanese characterof the landscaping, and the Craftsmanelements of a classicshingle house. Fence-boards are spacedapart allowing for avisual connectionbetween the sculptedplants and the garden within.

“Dog-eared” security fenceBuilt for a home constructed in a Victorianstyle, this fence of 1x8 Construction Heartredwood creates security and privacy.Alternating boards have been cut in a“dog-eared” pattern to add visual interestto an otherwise plain fence design.Security is enhancedwith airy wrought iron gates. A shadetrellis lends design contininuity and issupported by 6x6’s.

6'0"

1"x4" and 1"x6" fencing

4"x4" post

1"x2" trim

1"x3" nailers

2"x6" cap rail

1"x10" kickboard

2"x4" rail

1"x3"1"x4" and 1"x6"

4"x4"

1"x10"2"x4"

6'0"

1"x8" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x4" cap rail

2"x4" rail

1"x8"

4"x4" 2"x4"

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Oriental entry and fencePosts, rails and beams of this attractivefence and pergola were constructed fromClear All Heart redwood. Fenceboards are1x6’s while the structural members anddecorative elements of the pergola arefashioned from largerdimension redwoodtimbers. Diagonal gate boards soften theimpressive entrance.

Security and privacy fenceA seven-foot-tall fence of ConstructionHeart redwood buffers traffic noise on a busy main street. The massive, stockade-like design is a board-on-board“good neighbor” style that looks goodfrom either side.Supporting the 1x12 fenceboards, 2x8 toprails, kick board andcap rail are 6x8posts. Capitalsadd a light touch.

Post-and-rail boundary fenceBlending with an existing arbor, this simple post-and-rail style fence offers both security and elegance. Design details such as the kickboard and 2x6 cap rail create visual interest. Custom latticework on the gate is con-tained by a 2x8 intermediate rail.Fenceboards are alternating 1x4’s and 1x6’s with 1 inch spaces.

6'0" 1"x4" and 1"x6" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6" cap rail

1"x10" kickboard

1"x6" and 1"x4"

4"x4" 1"x10"

1"x4" nailers

1"x3" trim

1"x3"

1"x3"

6'0"1"x4" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6" cap rail

1"x6" doublerail

1"x4" 4"x4"

1"x6"

1"x6" nailers

7'0"

2"x8" cap rail

6"x8" post

6"x8"

1"x12" lappedfencing

1"x10"

2"x10" and2"x8" capital

2"x8" nailers

2"x8" nailers

2"x8"

2" capital

Built with Construction Heart redwood, this trellis provides shade and adds a finished look to a gated boundary fence.The garden grade redwood adds a rustic,natural feeling at an economical cost.

A painted redwood gate serves as an out-door foyer, creating privacy and personalityfor the yard. The widely spaced lattice protects the yard without isolating it.

Rooftop-style canopy over a Craftsmanfence shelters the entrance beneath it.Shingles on the canopy echo the design ofthe home. Posts are 6x6’s and support the4x4’s of the canopy.

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Intricate pool-side screenVisual interest and privacy for a spa areprovided by combining two different fence designs. The elegant lattice, builtwith 2x2’s which alternate front to back,creates a decorative and airy screen, whilethe louvered screen provides privacy andwind protection. Overhead trellises areused to shade benches and support hanging plants, while built-inplanters completethe inviting setting.

6'0"

6"x6" post

1"x2" and1"x6" fencing

2"x2" verticalrails

2"x6" cap rail

2"x6" rail

6"x6"

1"x2" and 1"x6"

2"x2" 2"x6"

Louvered privacy screenLouvered construction is a sophisticatedway to let in light and fresh breezes whilemaintaining privacy. This all ConstructionHeart 8-foot redwood garden screen addsvisual interest to the garden setting of thisback yard. Louversshould always bebuilt of dimensionallystable lumber suchas redwood to prevent twisting during the weather-ing process. 8'0"

2"x4" miteredspacers

4"x4" cap rail

4"x4" post1"x6" fence2"x4" miteredspacer

2"x4" rail6"

36"

4"x4"notch

1"x6"

mitered2"x4"

triangularspacers

1"x6"

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Grapestake fenceA rustic, yet contemporary six-foot-tallgrapestake fence creates security and privacy in a front yard. Grapestakes arerough-cut, pointed 2x2’s which vary inwidth, thickness and length. Support rails, top and bottom, are 2x4’s. Brickcolumns, topped byantique-type lights,frame a 1x6 redwoodgate and help to create an impressive entrance way.

6'0"

2"x4" 2"x2"4"x4"

2"x4" cap rail

4"x4" post

2"x2" fencing

2"x4" rail

Latticework front yard fenceThe latticework boundary fence was built to complement a turn-of-the-centurywhite cottage and English garden. The 4x4 posts are shaped at the top to addarchitectural interest. All redwood was finished with a white solid body stainwhich does not peel and flake the waypaints do.

3'0"

1"x1" nailers

1"x2" lattice

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

8"

4"x4" post

1"x1"

1"x2"

2"x4" 4"x4"

1"x1" nailers

Basketweave fenceClassic six-foot-tall basketweave fencebuilt along a side yard on a small lot creates a property line marker and pro-vides privacy from nearby neighbors. The 3/8x8 fenceboards, specially orderedfrom the lumber supplier, were resawnfrom 1x8’s. Postsare 4x6’s, the insertsare 1x2’s and thekickboards and railcap are both made of 2x6’s.

6'0"

1"x2" verticalnailer

2"x4" caprail1"x2" verticalinsert

3/8"x8" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6" kickboard

1"x2"

1"x2"

4"x4"

3/8"x8"2"x6"

The extra deep window box acts like agreenhouse window, brightening the classic board-and-board fence. It also provides a showcase area for plants and flowers.

This redwood screen was constructed tohide a garden tool area at one end of apatio, and features custom latticework andcopper inserts that have been chemicallyaged to a rich turquoise patina.

Privacy screen surrounding a built-in spafeatures an intricate cutout framed with aseries of 2x4 boxes. Gentle breezes and filtered light keep the space from feelingdark and confined.

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Privacy fence for spaThe Clear All Heart redwood fence allowsprivacy while permitting air and light to filter through to a 8-foot spa andbeyond to the master bedroom. Redwooddecking, planters and bench complementthe 1/4x4-inch benderboard fence. The 1x2vertical nailers areattached to both sides of the fencing to provide structuralstability and strength.

8'0"1/4"x4" bender board

2"x6" rails2"x6"

4"x4" post

2"x6" cap rail

1"x2" verticalnailers

1/4"x4"

4"x4"

1"x2"

Solid wall fenceThis solid perimeter fence and pergolaallow privacy and protection, while the lattice fence top and gates preserve a certain airiness and light motif. The fencing, attached to both sides of the 2x4 framing, matches the 1x8 shiplap siding of the house. Thepalatial pergola is constructed with 6x6 posts that support 6x6’s,4x4’s and 2x4’s.

6'6"

5'0"

2"x4"1"x8"

4"x4" post/2"x4" nailer

2"x6" caprail1"x1" lattice1"x3" trim

2"x8" toprail

2"x4" rail

4"x4"

1"x3" trim

1"x8" shiplapsiding

4'

1"x3"

1"x1"2"x8"

Gates for comingand going

A gate is often the first thing thevisitor encounters, so it is worthdevoting time and careful thought tothe impression you want to create.For example, a brightly paintedpicket gate sends awelcomemessageto those who approach, while a tall,solid gate proclaims that only thosewith permission may enter. Somegates are basic and utilitarian, blending with a fence or surroundinglandscapes. Others are ornamentaland employ hand-forged hardware.Gates may even be framed with acanopy or arbor to create a naturaland pleasing portal.

Top: This intricately crafted double gatewas built using mortise and tenon con-struction techniques. The gate is borderedwith a lacy, custom-designed, hand-forgedwrought iron fence and is topped with apleasing iron arch. Materials are Clear AllHeart vertical grain redwood accented withcustom, hand-forged steel gate handle andmortise lock.

Right: Upper railings of the gate are shapedin a graceful curve to match the bays ofthe property line fence. Fence and gate useno nails, only quality brass screws. Theiron strap gate hinges and other copperand iron hardware and accents are hand-made by a local blacksmith. Alternate sizesof upright fence pickets are used to createdesign interest.

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This magnificent double gate uses archi-tectural grade Clear All Heart redwood.Supporting the weight of the gate are 6x6posts which are topped off with capitals for a stately entrance.

Built of Clear grade redwood, the 5-1/2inch thick door with its graceful arch isidentical on both sides. Latticework helpsto lighten the massiveness of the gate, andheavy-duty hardware supports its weight.

The designer chose smooth-textured Con-struction Heart redwood for this entranceto a 1930’s wood-shingled house. The delicate porthole and arch add further contrast to the rough-textured fencing.

Choose theright style redwood fence

A fence is an extension of yourhome, and calls for as much atten-tion to its purpose, style and designas if you were adding another room.

In your planning you need tostart with specific questions. Whyare you building the fence and howwill it complement the characterand design of your home? Are youdefining a boundary? Are you looking to create more privacy orshield yourself from unwantednoise? Or is your purpose to con-struct a wind break, add shade to adeck or discourage the family dogfrom running loose in the neighbor-hood? Not all fences are appropriatefor all purposes.

Consider, too, how your neigh-bors will view the fence. Somefences look wonderfully finished on your side, yet present neighborswith a less appealing view, whileother designs look equally attractivefrom either side. A friendly chatwith your neighbors can lead to adesign that pleases all parties, andthey may even be willing to splitthe cost of materials and labor.

Design your fenceThere are a surprising number of

fence styles to choose from, manyof which are included in this booklet. There are also do-it-your-self books that contain a wealth ofideas and illustrations. Thumbingthrough them is a good way to getthe process rolling.

You may choose to settle on anexisting design, or you can createyour design from scratch. You canalso modify a basic design into alook distinctively yours. You’ll findit fun to experiment, and even smallvariations will make a big difference.Keep in mind that you only need toplan the details for one typical bay(the section of fence from one postto the next). From there you can

calculate everything else you needfor a fence of any length.

Remember, if you’re workingwithin a limited budget, you canstill build a fence that does the jobwithout sacrificing quality bychoosing a style that uses less lumber or a more economical gradeof redwood. You can also bringdown costs by making the best useof standard lumber lengths.

Establish your layout priorities

A fence can impact your site inmany different ways, so in yourplanning you need to think aboutwhich aspects of the site you wantto retain and which you’d like tochange. Before you finalize yourfence line, carefully review yourpriorities to confirm that all yourkey considerations are being covered. Some of the questionsyou’ll want to answer are...■ Which views do you want to keepor block?■ Which areas would you like to conceal?■ Where are the activity areas and what are the traffic patterns inthose areas?■ What needs to be protected fromthe sun or prevailing winds? ■ Is there noise you’d like to block?Where is it coming from?

■ Do you want the fence to supportcertain vines and shrubs? ■ Are there places where the fencemust be in scale with existing landscaping or coordinated withexisting structures like trellises and planters?

Address anything that mayhave a bearing on your fence

layout. The more thoroughly youdo this, the happier you’ll be withthe finished product.

Draw a site planYou’ll find it easier and less

costly to resolve all your key issueswhile you’re still at the conceptualstage. But to do this, you’ll need tohave a site plan. You can draw asite plan in an hour or two, or youcan look for a copy of an existingplan with the building department,designer or architect, building contractor, landscape contractor oreven a previous owner. Once youhave a plan of your property, youcan experiment with different fenceline schemes.

Start by making a rough sketch ofthe site, including such things as siteperimeter, the houseplan, driveway,patios, walkways, garden beds andutilities. You will also want to indicate grade, sun and wind orientation, and the characteristicsof surrounding structures and

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Fig. 1: SITE PLAN AND ROUGH LAYOUT

ResidenceEntry

Garage

Gate

Garden

Boundary fence

NoiseScreen

PrivacyScreen

Boundary fence

Deck

Wind

Setting sun

View screen

plantings. In plotting out the sun’spath, visit the site several times during the day to note how shadowsfall. And don’t forget that the sunfollows a different path in the summer than it does during theother seasons. Use circles for activity areas, arrows for trafficpaths, wavy lines for winds, a yellow dotted line for sun path,squiggly arrows for noise direction,different color arrows for good andpoor views...or whatever other symbols you find most practical.

Now walk the property with a50- or 100-foot tape and someoneto hold the other end. Precisioncounts. Take actual field measure-ments and note them on your sketch.

Once you’re done, transfer yourfield measurements to 1/4-inchscale graph paper. Use light pencillines initially to plan your fence line and only darken them wheneverything is worked out to your satisfaction. Also, it’s a good ideato jot down the dimension next toeach line. Later on, it will be easierto read than counting squares.

Make a rough layoutOnce you have everything indi-

cated, it’s time to start looking atfence lines. Since you’re just play-ing with ideas at this point, don’toverwork any one layout scheme.Use tissue overlays to make variousrough fencing schemes (Fig. 1).

A good rule of thumb is to keepspaces as large as possible. Mostpeople enjoy the expansiveness ofthe great outdoors, so think twicebefore you plot a fence line thatboxes people in.

If you have gates, don’t forget toallow enough room for openings.Three foot openings are generallyenough to accommodate one personor a large piece of equipment. Fourfeet will accommodate two people,while 6 feet is generally sufficientfor a group. For vehicles, you wantto allow a minimum of 10 feet.

Once you’re satisfied that youhave what you want, trace yourrough layout and site plan on another tissue overlay. Indicatewhere the openings will be, and ifthere’s a gate, the direction in whichit will swing. Completing this stepwill help you calculate how much lumber will be needed to build your fence.

If you see ways to improve yourfence line, don’t be reluctant tomake new sketches until you feelyou’ve gotten everything just right.

Legal considerationsIt’s a good practice to check out

the legal considerations associatedwith building a fence, because localcodes and ordinances can vary considerably from one communityto the next. Most communities haveheight restrictions on boundary ordivision fencing. There also may becertain laws and codes that actuallyrequire you to erect a fence, forinstance, around a swimming poolor open well.

If there are any questions about on whose land the fence isbeing built, arrange for a survey.Remember, if any part of the fenceencroaches on your neighbor’sproperty, you may be asked tomove it.

Build yourfence

At this point you’re ready to rollup your sleeves and get to work.Fence building is divided into threestages. First, you physically plot thefence by staking out the location ofthe posts, then you install the postsand finally, you add the rails andfenceboards.

Most people prefer to set all theposts in place and then attach therails and fencing, especially whenposts are being set in concrete.Another approach, however, is toassemble the fence in sections byfilling in the rails and fenceboardswhenever two posts are in place.This has certain advantages whenyou’re working with prefabricatedfences, or when you first build eachsection on the ground and then liftit into place.

Lumber grades and usesNo matter which approach you

follow, you need to start by decid-ing what grades of redwood youwish to work with. To calculate yourcosts and materials, it is easiest todetermine first what it will take to build one fence bay (usually 8feet from post to post) and then to multiply that by the number of baysrequired to complete your fence. Itis also best to add another 8% toyour order so you don’t run out ofmaterials. Most fences use 4x4 postsand 2x4 rails, with the boardsattached to the rails. You can choosebetween garden grades of redwoodwhich are rugged, hard-working andeconomical and architectural gradeswhich are preferred for fences orscreens that have a more decorativeor architectural function. (Fig. 2).

Garden grades Construction Heart contains

knots of a limited size and is recommended for work on or nearthe ground and for posts, rails, kickboards and fenceboards. Aswith all heartwood grades, it isdecay and termite resistant.

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Fig. 2: LUMBER GRADES AND CHARACTERISTICS

Heartwood Sapwood

Architectural Clear Clear All Heart ClearGrades Limited Knots B Heart B Grade

Garden Knotty Construction Heart Construction CommonGrades Deck Heart Deck Common

Merchantable Heart Merchantable

Construction Common is similar to Construction Heart exceptthat it contains sapwood, which canbe visually dramatic on largefences. It is recommended for mostabove-ground applications such asfenceboards, trellises or gates.

Deck Heart and Deck Commonare similar in appearance to Con-struction Heart and ConstructionCommon but are graded specificallyfor strength. Deck Heart and DeckCommon are available in 2x4 and2x6 dimensions. In addition to useas fenceboards, these grades areexcellent for deck rails and caps.

Merchantable Heart allowslarger knots and knotholes and isgood for fenceboards, posts andrails in low fence projects.

Merchantable allows largerknots and knotholes and can be cut economically for rough orrustic fenceboards.

Architectural gradesClear All Heart has no knots

on the best face and permits smalltight knots on the reverse face ofoccasional pieces. Because it resistsdecay and termites, you can use iton or near the ground.

Clear, essentially knot-free, is use-ful for fine architectural fence paneldesigns away from ground contact.

B Heart allows limited knotsand is 100% heartwood.

B Grade has limited knots, contains sapwood and is used forabove-ground applications.

Whether you choose garden orarchitectural grades, you’ll find that a fence constructed of redwoodwill resist shrinking, warping and checking and not only age beautifully but often look better ten, fifteen and even twenty years after construction.

Posts and railsThe first step in building your

fence is to locate the exact course itwill take and mark the line withstakes and string. This is the mostexacting part of the project, becauseit establishes the foundation andframework for your fence.

To plot a straight line for yourfence, mark the location for eachend or corner post with a batterboard—-two solidly driven stakes18 inches apart and connected by a1x3. Use the center of the batterboard as your point of alignmentand drive a nail or cut a notch. Tie apiece of mason’s twine or string tothe nail of one batter board, draw ittaut, and tie it to the nail on theother. If the fence line is particularlylong, you’ll want to support thetwine with stakes whenever thetwine begins to sag.

Posts are generally spaced 6 to 8feet apart, depending on the style offence. Measure and mark the centerlocations of all the posts with chalkor a pen. Corner posts will be located directly under the crossingstringlines at the batter boards. Takethe string of your plumb line, line it up directly with the first chalkmark. Mark where the point of theplumb bob falls, using a spot ofspray paint or a stake stuck into theground. Paper nailed into the groundcan also serve as a marker. Once thecenter marks for all the posts areindicated, you can untie the string.

If your fence includes 90° rightangles, they can be accurately deter-mined by using the 6-8-10 trianglemeasuring technique shown in Fig. 3.Any multiple of 3-4-5 will work,although larger numbers are easierto measure.

Establish the first fence line asexplained above. Then establish the second fence line roughly perpendicular to the first, usinganother batter board. Measuringfrom the stake that will form thecorner, place a chalk mark 6 feetaway along the twine that forms thefirst fence line.

Next, put a mark 8 feet awayfrom the corner stake on the twineforming the second fence line.

Finally, measure the distancebetween the two chalk marks andadjust the second fence line on thebatter board until the diagonal measurement between the twomarks equals 10 feet. This givesyou an accurate 90° angle.

Set postsNow comes the hardest part of

building a fence: digging the holesand setting the posts. For the first

Clamshelltype digger

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90°

18"

6'-8'

10

86

Batter board

String layout marks fence line

String layoutmarks secondfence line

Post locations 6-8-10 test for right angle

Corner post location

Fig. 3: STRING LAYOUT AND TEST FOR RIGHT ANGLES

FIG. 4: POSTHOLE DIGGER

step, a post-hole digger is often allyou need, but if there are many holesto dig, you may want to considerone-man or two-man power augers.Augur-type diggers are good forrock-free earth, but if you’re likely toencounter large stones, a clamshelltype is better (Fig. 4). A digging bar is also useful for prying rocksand other hard-to-move debris fromthe hole.

In most cases, your posts will be4x4’s or 6x6’s, depending on fencestyle. Posts can be set directly intothe concrete or attached with metalpost anchors. Posthole diametershould be at least 3 times the widthof the post. Post depth should be1/3 the above-ground height plus anadditional 6 inches for the rock orgravel bed (Fig. 5). If you experi-ence frost where you live, dig post-holes down to a foot below the nor-mal frost line to minimize damagefrom ground shift due to alternatefreezing and thawing of soil.

Once the holes are dug and allloose dirt is removed, make a drainbed at the bottom of each hole byshoveling in about 6 inches of gravel. Working carefully, set theposts, making sure that each one isplumb and kept from moving withbraces staked to the ground (Fig. 6).To make sure all the posts are inalignment, reattach the twine to thebatter boards and move the tiepoints so that the twine runs alongthe outside of the posts.

You will also want to adjust postsfor height at this time by anchoringa string on top of one post, drawingit taught and anchoring it to the topof the next. Then, running a levelalong the string, move the secondpost until it’s in alignment.

When pouring concrete postfootings, make the concrete thickenough so that you can solidly pack itinto the hole. Ready-mixed concreteis preferable for most applications;however, if you elect to mix yourown, use a mixture of 2 partscement, 3 parts sand and 5 partsgravel. Allow the concrete to set forat least 2 days before you beginattaching the rails.

Add railsOnce the posts are set, the

hardest part is over, and it’s time tostart giving form to your fence byadding the rails. Start by markingand cutting the top rails so that theywill span from one post to the nextof each 6 or 8 foot bay, then nailthem in place. Once the top of theframe is tied together, go back and

mark and cut the bottom rails andnail them into place.

There are a number of differentways to join the rails to the posts(Fig. 7). Top rails can be mitered,butted, or notched and bolted, whilebottom rails can be toe nailed, fas-tened with a block or metal brace,or inset into the post by cutting adado or a notch.

Attach fenceboardsThis is easily the most satisfying

part of the project, because it’s herethat your fence takes on its finalform. The process is also more funbecause your most exacting tasksare done. All you need to do is towork out your basic procedure andrepeat it until the fence is complete.Time will fly by as you fall into arhythm of working.

Though there are many differentfence styles, they tend to fall intotwo general categories: nail-on andinset. Neither installation is difficult;however, nail-on is a bit easier andfaster, while inset requires some-what more attention and care inconstruction and more framing and materials.

Nail-on fencing styles Nail-on fence styles (Fig. 8) are

easier to build because they requirefewer steps. Also, you don’t need toprecut the boards to length unless,of course, you choose to do so. You

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Mitered Butted Block Toe-nail

On-edge Notched Metal Dado

Top rails Bottom rails

18"

3'

Concrete

Compactedgravel

Metal postanchor

4 x 4 post

String

Post

Brace

Level

Fig. 7: RAIL ATTACHMENTS

Fig. 5: POSTHOLE OPTIONS Fig. 6: SET POSTS

can simply nail the boards at random height and trim them later,using a chalkline to mark your cutting line.

To make sure your fenceboardsare raised an even distance from theground, determine the bottom fenceline by tacking your string acrossseveral bays at a time, making sureit’s level. Then, starting at the end,corner or gate post, use the string asyour baseline and begin nailing upyour fenceboards. If your fence isdesigned with spaces between theboards, use a block of wood as aspacer that you can move from oneboard to the next.

Every few feet it’s a good idea to use a level on the vertical edge of the last board you’ve mounted to make sure it’s plumb. If younotice that you’re falling out ofplumb, you can make minor adjustments over the next fewboards until you’ve gotten rid ofthe discrepancy.

Trim all the boards at once afterattaching them to the rails. Use achalk line to mark your trim line.

Inset fencing styles An inset-style fence (Fig. 9)

takes more time and additionalframing materials, but it results in afence with clean, graceful lines thatwill please your neighbors; it’s asfinished looking on their side as it ison yours.

Start by determining the heightand width of several bays. If youdiscover discrepancies between onebay and another, you may want tomeasure them all to make sure thatboards will be properly cut to fit.

Next, check each bay with aframing square. If anything is out ofsquare, you’ll need to make minoradjustments when installing theboards for that bay.

Precut the fence boards to properlength. Now measure and mark thenailing strip positions on each sideof the fence and install the outerstrips first to give the boards some-thing to rest against as you nail

them in place. Toenail the boards tothe frame, checking occasionally tomake sure that edges are in plumb.Then toenail the other set of nailingstrips into position. If your fencedesign calls for horizontal or diagonal fencing, attach verticalframing strips at the posts. Use thesame material as the nailers. Youcan use any of the various railattachment techniques when joiningthe nailer and framing strips at thecorners (Fig. 7).

Nails and fastenersWhen working with redwood,

it’s important to use only aluminumalloy, stainless steel, or double hot-dipped galvanized fasteners.Inferior hardware, including com-mon iron or steel fasteners or those galvanized by other than thehot-dipped process, is likely to corrode and cause unsightly stainswhen it comes into contact withmoisture. As a guide, select 16-penny common nails for the frame,8- or 10-penny box nails for thefenceboards, and 6- or 8-penny fin-ish nails for the fine trim.

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Vertical framing

Vertical framing(optional for vertical fencing)

Cap rail

Bottom rail

Nailing strips(first set)

Nailing strip

Nailing strip

Nailing strips(second set)

Bottomrail

Fenceboard

Fenceboard

Post

Toprail

Precut fence boards

Bottomrail

Post

StringBottom rail

Fenceboard

Post

Top rail

FIG. 8: NAIL-ON FENCING

Fig. 9: INSET FENCING

Build and hangthe gate

There’s something deeply satisfying about a gate that openseasily, swings freely, and closessecurely with a reassuring click.Building such a gate requires you to exercise care and craftsmanshipin each of the five steps of gate construction: setting the gate posts,building the frame, adding fencingboards, hanging the gate andinstalling the latch.

Gate posts should be set deeperthan your fence line posts—about1/3 their total length—and anchoredin concrete. This is necessarybecause of the need to withstandadditional stresses. Posts also mustbe carefully plumbed so that theirinside faces are exactly parallel.

When measuring the opening,make sure to allow for clearances onthe hinge and latch sides of the gates(Fig. 10). For gates with standard2x4 framing and 4x4 posts, leave a1/2- to 3/4-inch space between thelatch post and the gate frame. Onthe hinge side, it will depend on thehardware you use. About 1/4 inch isusually sufficient.

Once the posts are set, beginassembling the frame (Fig. 11). Cutthe pieces to length and assemblethem on a flat surface, making

certain that the gate frame is insquare. Use a carpenter’s square tocheck the corners and then measurethe diagonals. When the diagonalsare equal, the sides of your gate areparallel and the frame forms a truerectangle. Use wood screws and agood exterior wood glue instead ofnails for added strength.

To measure the brace, lay theframe down on top of the 2x4 bracing member and mark your cutlines. The easiest cut is a single,angled cut so that the brace will runfrom hinge side bottom to latch sidetop. Cut the 2x4 just outside yourmarks so the brace will have a tightfit, and attach the brace to the framewith nails or screws.

Now add the boards, startingfrom the side where the hinge willgo. If the last piece is not flush withthe frame edge, either space theboards slightly or plane a little fromeach board until they fit. Then drillyour pilot holes and fasten thehinges to the gate. There are a largevariety of hinges and latches tochoose from. (Fig. 12 shows themost common.)

At this point you’re ready to hang the gate, but before you doanything, you’ll want to check thefit by moving the gate in positionand trimming any areas that are tootight to provide ample clearance.Now prop the fitted gate into theopening using blocks to support it,or have a helper hold it in position,and mark the hinge and screw holepositions on the post. Once theholes are drilled, replace the gate,

and attach the hinges to the post.Finally, mount the latch assemblyon the gate and post, using screws alittle longer than usual to help thelatch withstand the punishment itwill take through years of use.

Finally, it’s time to congratulateyourself on a job well done.

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Minimum depth ofgate post hole should equal 1/3 the overallpost length

Latch side bears load

2 x 4 braces from hingebottom to latch top

2 x 4 frame

1/4" - 3/4" space

4 x 4 postsand fence

2 x 4 brace

Latchside

Hingeside2 x 4

gateframe

Test for squarecorners

Oppostie sides are parallel when diagonalsare of equal length.

Fig. 12: HINGES AND LATCHES

Fig. 13: HANG THE GATE

Fig. 10: GATE ELEVATION

Fig. 11: GATE FRAME & BRACE

Ornamental T-Hinge

Strapped H-Hinge

TopLatch

Ring Latch

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FinishesNo other wood takes and holds finishes better than redwood. California redwood’s performance and

finish-holding ability make it one of nature’s most maintenance-free building materials.

Natural appearance finishesClear Water Repellents with Mildewcide:Clear finishes that modify weathering characteristics and let color and grainshow through.

Apply with brush or roller. Use one or two coats according to the manufacturer’sdirections. For best results, coat sawn ends,backs and edges before nailing in place.

Reapplication may be required after old finish has lost its effectiveness. In humidor harsher climates, reapplication may berequired every 12-18 months. Beforeapplying, wood may be restored to its natural color with trisodium phosphate andoxalic acid treatment.

Bleaching or Weathering Stains: Lowmaintenance, natural appearance with agray-toned finish.

Apply with brush or roller. Use one or twocoats according to manufacturer’s direc-tions. Bleaching is aided by sunlight andmoisture, so it may speed the process toperiodically dampen surfaces with a finespray from a garden hose.

Bleaching oils and stains provide nearlymaintenance-free performance. Reapplyfinish only if wood begins to darken orbleaching is uneven. One refinish coatshould be enough.

Pigmented StainsSemitransparent Stains: Penetrating finishes available in a variety of semitrans-parent colors including several redwoodhues. Oil-based stains are recommended.

Apply with brush for best results, next bestis a roller. Avoid drips and lap marks. Twocoats usually required for new wood—follow manufacturer’s directions.

Refinishing may be necessary every 3 to 5years. Color in pigmented stains may wearaway gradually after weathering. Lightbrushing with a bristle brush will helpremove old finish in some spots. One refinish coat is usually enough.

Description Application Maintenance

Solid Body Stains: Film forming finishesavailable in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based stains are recommended.

For best results use a brush. The next bestapplicator is a roller. Avoid drips and lapmarks. Two coats usually required for newwood—follow manufacturer’s directions.

Refinishing may be necessary every 3 to 5years. Color in pigmented stains may wearaway gradually after weathering. Lightbrushing with a bristle brush will helpremove old finish in some spots. One refinish coat is usually enough.

PaintsPaints: Durable, attractive finishes for traditional exteriors. Quality paints are generally worth the extra cost.

Apply with brush for best results, roller isnext best applicator. One prime coat and twotop coats are recommended for new wood.Back-priming is highly recommended. Useoil- or alkyd-based stain-blocking primer.Acrylic latex top coat is recommended.

Refinishing may be necessary every 7 to10 years. Paint films that are too thick tend to peel and crack. Sand or scrub withstiff bristle brush. Paint and varnishremovers may also be used. If sanding,countersink galvanized nail heads to protect their coating.

Finishes not recommended: varnishes and clear film finishes, oil treatments, “shake and shingle” type paints.