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Publishers: Parvathi TVR Chandran Publications October 2019 www.textileindia.net

Our Mission is to work with Government of India, Ministry of Textiles and serve Indian Textile Industry, with the objective of attaining a production level of US$ 350 billion and create 35 million jobs by 2024-2025, as against current US$ 150 billion textile output

French Textile Machineries Displayed at ITMA 2019 Exhibition

NSC FIbrE TO YArN

LAROCHE STAND-ITMA BARCELONA 2019

ALLIANCE MACHINES

SupERBA wINDER

Editor – Publisher: Viswanath Chandran VichaManaging Editor: Raju Chandran

Printed At: Supressa Graphics Pvt. Ltd.

Published by Viswanath Chandran Vicha for and on behalf of Parvathi TVR Chandran Publications at ‘‘Asheerwad’’ Ground Floor, 3/49 Sion, Road No. 2, Scheme No. 6, Sion East, Mumbai-400 022 and printed by him at M/s Supressa Graphics Pvt. Ltd., 258/259, A to Z Industrial Estate, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400 013, Maharashtra.

Editor: Viswanath Chandran Vicha

Managing Editor: Raju Chandran

Textile India Progress is Registered with Registrar of Newspapers, Government of India, New Delhi, under Registration No 43692/82.

Publishers:Parvathi TVR Chandran Publications

In Memory OfMr. TVR Chandran & Mrs. Parvathi TVR Chandran

Textiles - Apparel - Fashion - Synthetic Fibres & Filament Yarns - Textile Machinery & Technologies - Accessories & Components - Dyestuffs & Chemicals

Registered Office:Textile India Progress

‘‘Asheervad’’ Ground Floor, 3/49 Sion,Road No. 2, Scheme No. 6, East,

Mumbai-400 022, India.Tel: 91-22-24097782, 24097185, 24077883

Email: [email protected]: [email protected]

Textile India Progress takes pleasure in doing a cover feature on French Textile Machinery companies, who had exhibited their textile machineries at Itma in Barcelona, Spain, in 2019. We are pleased to publish profiles of NSC, Fil Control, Superba, Alliance Machines, Laroche, Spoolex and Schaffer Productique.

ATE and its principals were present in full strength at ITMA 2019 at Barcelona, Spain, with a series of product launches and the display of innovative technologies across the textile value chain. ATE and its principals once again proved that they will continue to be the trailblazer in introducing trendsetting technologies for the world textile industry. ATE’s principals who had displayed their textile machineries were Truetzschler, Karl Mayer, Osthof, Goller, Monforts, Zimmer, Monfongs, ATE Huber Envirotech Private Limited, Fong’s, Colour Service, Corino, Stalam, Zimmer, Mahlo, Texpa, Danti Paolo and Guarneri. Few of the principals had showcased important innovations. Monforts had displayed their new version of stenter which is designed to reduce the energy cost.

Lenzing Group, with the recently announced plans to establish a lyocell production facility in Thailand, the Group is taking an important step in meeting the strong demand for lyocell fibers and is further strengthening the company’s position as an industry leader in the speciality cellulosic fibers market. The total investment volume for the first production line, including infrastructure and site development, amounts to approximately EUR 400 million. Lenzing fibers are fully biodegradable in water, soil and compost.

Master in the year of its 55th anniversary of establishment, Master located at Macherio, Italy a leader in manufacturing of continuous indigo dyeing machines, after agreeing to the request of patents transfer about the dyeing into inert environment of yarn for warp for denim fabric, implicit acknowledgement of their value, has changed its specific core business.

Uster is the acknowledged global standard in testing at the heart of the laboratory in every quality conscious textile mill. And Uster TESTER 6 – the latest edition of the legendary Uster Technologies instrument – still keeps on improving, with innovative solutions to keep pace with the latest industry trends.

UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization), organized in collaboration with ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency, a Symposium on Italian technologies in Cairo, Egypt on 25 and 26 September 2019. The initiative was part of a broader UNIDO project to support the local cotton textile industry for the purchase of sustainable and innovative technologies. The Seminar was dedicated to Italian textile technologies.

Viswanath Chandran Vicha

Textile IndiaProgress

Letter From Publisher

Transforming India’s Textile & Apparel Industry


October 2019 1


Textiles - Apparel - Fashion - Synthetic Fibres & Filament Yarns - Textile Machinery & Technologies - Accessories & Components - Dyestuffs & Chemicals

Transforming India’s Textile & Apparel Industry

Committed to Values And ExcellenceTextile India Progress Mission for Transforming India’s Textile and Apparel Industry to Attain US$350 billion output and create 35 million jobs by 2025Textile India Progress is dedicated to taking up the cause of Indian textile industry, with Government of Indi, with the objective of attaining $350 billion textile output per annum and creating 35 million jobs by 2025, as against present $140 billion textile output per annum.We are thankful grateful to various Ministries and Senior Officers of Government of India, for accepting many of our recommendations and implementing them as Government policies, for growth of textile industry. We are also grateful to Government of India, for asking us to provide our perspective, ideas and recommendations, vide Government of India letters dated 12.10.2017 and 30.10.2017.In response to this, Textile India Progress has presented its ideas, perspective and recommendations vide its Memorandum dated Wednesday, 17 January, 2018, addressed to Shri Arun Jaitley, Minister of Finance, with copies to Shri Narendra Modi, Prime Minister of India, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani, Minister of Textiles, Information and Broadcasting, Shri Nripendra Mishra, Principal Secretary to Prime Minister of India, Shri Hasmukh Adhia, Secretary, Finance and Shri Anant Kumar Singh, Secretary, Textiles. Textile India Progress has urged Government of India to implement innovative reforms, for transforming Indian textile industry. We have made the following recommendations to Government of India:1. Reduce GST rate on Man Made Fibres from 18% to 12%2. Increase Import Duty on MMF Yarn, Garments and Cotton

Fabrics3. Take necessary steps to Curb Textile Imports4. Set up Integrated Textile Parks to realise Value Added

Opportunities5. Increase substantially export subsidy for Home Textile

Exports, to make our products cost competitive in global market

6. Create enabling environment for Indian textile industry to Focus on Medical, Automobile and Construction Textiles

7. Increase substantially export subsidy for all textiles, to make Indian textiles cost competitive in the global market, as we are losing out our market share in global market, thereby helping our competitors to increase their textile exports

8. Consider Textile Exports as a Thrust or Focus Area for Increasing Exports, as India’s textile exports constitute 30% of India’s industrial output. Hence, Textile should be identified as a Thrust Sector and Maximum export subsidy should be considered by Government of India, for increasing textile exports. We must aim to increase India’s textile exports rapidly, thereby capturing a major market share of the global textile market

9. Reduce GST rate on Man Made Fibres and Filament Yarns to 6%, over a phased period. This would ensure optimum capacity utilisation in textile industry, increase output, widen consumption and bring down prices of Cotton, Man Made Fibres and Filament Yarns, Fabrics and Garments.

The Editor is in no way responsible for the views expressed by the Authors and for the authencity of write-ups of products published in this issue. The articles, news items, editorials published in this Issue are meant for information purposes only and thus cannot be considered as soliciting and offer for sale or purchase of textiles, textile machineries, dyestuffs and chemicals or any other products. No material should be reproduced without the written consent of the Editor.


CONTENTSEditorialInnovation Leads the Way at ITMA 2019 Exhibition – ITMA 2019 attracted1717 Exhibitors from 45 countries and visitors of over 105,000 from 137 countries ...................................................................................................................3

Cover FeatureFrench Textile Machinery After ITMA, the trends are clear ...................................4Eco-responsibility ....................................................................................................4Industry 4.0 ..............................................................................................................5Precise figures ..........................................................................................................6Recycling .................................................................................................................6Globalization ............................................................................................................6Digitalization ............................................................................................................7

Textile MachineryAcimit - Italian Textile Machinery Orders Intake Down in Second Quarter ...........8ITMA 2019: Resounding success for Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers in Barcelona .............................................................................................................8EGYPT: Technological Symposium for Italian Textile Machinery .........................9The Italian Presence at Expotextil Peru .................................................................10A.T.E. and its Principals at ITMA Barcelona 2019 ...............................................11Spinning .................................................................................................................11Spinning Accessories .............................................................................................12Fabric Forming .......................................................................................................12Processing ..............................................................................................................14Filip Miermans is the new head of Corporate Communications & Investor Relations at Lenzing ..............................................................................................15LENZING™ fibers are fully biodegradable in water, soil and compost ...............16Lenzing presented first blockchain pilot project at Hong Kong Fashion Summit ...................................................................................................................17Lenzing contracts Wood to deliver world´s largest lyocell plant ...........................18Master Eco-Friendly Technologies Indigo Dyeing Machines ...............................19Master in Indigo Dyeing Machines ........................................................................19The starting concept ...............................................................................................21The innovation .......................................................................................................22Machine key features .............................................................................................22Production capacity ................................................................................................22Dyeing results ........................................................................................................23Technical data ........................................................................................................23Master history (since 1963) ...................................................................................24SRTEPC Chairman and Executive Director meet Secretary Textiles ....................25Intexpo Malaysia – A new chapter in the Indo-Malaysian textile trade ................27“Success is not final; failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts” ...................................................................................................................28Indian-Born Scientist creates new waterbased Zinc battery to compete with flammable Lithium batteries ..................................................................................29Mr. Suresh Narayanan, Nestle India Ltd on Leadership in Crisis .........................30Sustainable Emulsion Polymers for Coatings ........................................................35PRO Ecuador associates with Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) to showcase its Vegan Ivory – Corozo, on Sustainable Fashion Day (SFD) ..............................38Major advances with USTER®TESTER 6: two new features – and total mill optimization through the Quality Management Platform ......................................40Frequent Occurrences: Quality evaluation for conductive yarns ...........................41Twist and twist variation – in a single test routine .................................................41USTER®QUALITY EXPERT: impressive throughout the mill ............................42Transparency and trends ........................................................................................42Alerts and advice ....................................................................................................43Optimization in all aspects .....................................................................................43Italy’s luxury heritage fashion brand, ‘Moda Biella’ forays into Indian market....44Get a chance to be a part of the Live KBC audience with GRADO ......................45Colorjet Styling Sustainable Fashion Printing At New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2019 ........................................................................................................46

2 October 2019

Themed “Innovating the World of Tex-tiles”, the 18th edition of ITMA, the world’s most established garment technology ex-hibition concluded in Barcelona, Spain on 26th June 2019. The global textile and gar-ment manufacturing industry converged at ITMA 2019, chalking up new records for the exhibition which has been held every four years since 1951. ITMA 2019 featured many exciting new product launches and innova-tive technologies and products, including those that leverage the Internet of Things, by 1717 exhibitors from 45 countries. CE-MATEX, the European Committee of Tex-tile Machinery Manufacturers and owner of ITMA and ITMA ASIA reported that the in-dustry support from visitors and exhibitors were tremendous, resulting in record-break-ing number of exhibitors since its inception. Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX said “The digital transformation of the textile and garment manufacturing value chain and sustainability concerns of the industry have driven up visitors interests in ITMA 2019. We had a strong turnout despite trade ten-sions and poor business sentiments. Many of our exhibitors were pleasantly surprised with the large number of serious buyers attending the exhibition”. “They were also impressed with presence of new visitor seg-ments, such as bigger number of fashion and sports brands. Considering that for this ITMA edition, the duration has been short-ened from 8 to 7 days, we still enjoyed visi-tor ship”. ITMA 2019 attracted visitor ship of over 105,000 from 137 countries. The top 5 countries from where visitors came from were Spain (11%), Italy (10%), India (8%), Turkey and Germany (7%). They were fol-lowed by France, United States, Portugal, Brazil, Pakistan, China and the United King-dom. One of the exhibitors who was pleased with the visitor quality was Johan Verstra-ete, Vice –President, Weaving Machines of Picanol. He explained “Overall, it has been a good ITMA for us. We came with low ex-pectations, but they have been considerably exceeded. Although we did not get a large number of visitors, the quality was very high. We had many conversations and negotia-tions, which was somewhat contradictory to the ongoing negative market sentiments”.

An excited Paolo Milini, President & CEO of MS Printing Solutions, agreed: “We are very satisfied with the show. The posi-tive results of ITMA 2019 were made possi-ble thanks to a large number of visitors who came to our stand. We have had over 600 contacts a day, and they come from over 90

Mr Raju Chandran - Managing Editor


EDITORIAL

countries!” Launched as a dedicated sector at ITMA

2019, the printing and inks chapter had grown by 40% compared with ITMA 2015, and featured many established and new ex-hibitors who were keen to exploit the digital printing sector.

VDMA Textile Machinery Association members were also happy with the visitor quality. Regina Brückner, CEO of Brückner Group and Chairperson of the Association, enthused: “A VDMA survey conducted at ITMA 2019 showed that almost 90% of our exhibiting member companies considered both the quantity and quality of visitors as ‘good’ or ‘very good’. Visitors from all over the world came to ITMA Barcelona to dis-cuss new projects.”

ITMA 2019 also provided the platform for the announcement of a comprehensive modernisation programme for Egypt’s tex-tile industry valued at around €1 billion from exhibitors including Benninger, Brückner, EFI Reggiani, Itema, Karl Mayer, Rieter, Savio and Thies.

Many new technologies were launched, ranging from 3D weaving and knitting to hi-tech nonwovens processes, sustainable chemicals and state-of-the-art garment-making technologies, and wide range of software-powered automation solutions.

“I missed the last ITMA in Milan. After eight years, I find there is a big jump in technology. There are many interesting new developments, such as digitalisation and automation, as well as more eco-friendly products. I came here to also buy equipment for my factories, so this has been a fruitful trip for me,” said Mr Kihak Sung, Founder of Youngone Corporation and President of International Textile Manufacturers Federa-tion.

Another leading industry player, RakhiI Hirdaramani, Director of Hirdaramani and the Manufacturers Committee Chair of the World Federation of Sporting Goods Inter-national, said: “ITMA is a meeting of the minds. As much as it is a machinery fair, it’s also about understanding new tech-nologies; meeting with your peers and col-leagues from various sectors of the industry to understand the challenges and how to address them. One of the key trends we’ve seen this year, is about sustainability and Industry 4.0.”

Mr Hirdaramani participated in a panel

discussion held at the Speakers Platform, one of the components of the ITMA Innova-tion Lab which was launched at this year’s exhibition. The Platform drew strong interest and participation. It featured about 60 pre-sentations, and was attended by over 900 participants.

In addition, a number of ITMA and co-located events drew over 1,000 delegates. Among the events were the ITMA-EDANA Nonwovens Forum, Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum, Better Cotton Initiative Seminar, European Digital Textile Conference, Tex-Summit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manufacturer Forum and Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

ITMA collaborated with supporting or-ganisations, many of which sent visiting delegations from Central Asia, South Asia, Turkey and the Mediterranean countries. Among the high-level government delega-tions that were at ITMA included Catalan Minister of Business and Knowledge Ángels Chacon i Feixás; Governor of West Flanders Carl Decaluwé who led a press delegation from Flanders, Belgium; and the Uzbekistan Vice Minister of Silk Jumaev Olimjon and Vice Minister of Textile Jumaniyazov Fahrid-din who led a delegation of 40 people.

Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, which organises ITMA 2019, said: “We are extremely glad that many industry stakeholders see ITMA as an excellent plat-form for collaboration and sharing of ideas to make the industry more competitive in the face of digital transformation and to explore cutting-edge solutions to future proof their business.”

October 2019 3

Innovation Leads the Way at ITMA 2019 Exhibition – ITMA 2019 attracted 1717 Exhibitors from 45 countries and visitors of over 105,000 from 137 countries


Eco-responsibilityThe first trend is the demand for

eco-responsibility. It comes from the final consumer. Since ITMA, a study published this September 2019, by the French Fashion In-stitute, including a survey of 5000 European (France, Germany and Italy) and American consumers has shown high demands and expecta-tions for a eco-responsible fashion. Raw materials have to be natural or eco friendly, recycled products are welcome, the production pro-cess at least partly local. What is really missing, the study shows, is enough supply of these products eventhough, due to their under-standing of their responsibilities and the pressure from customers, many producers and retailers have make a point of doing more than is required by law, and acknowledge a commitment to all stakeholders and to the future of our planet.

One of the most efficient way to save energy is adapting servomo-tors which can be used in a close-loop control system to correct any

Cover Feature

French Textile Machinery After ITMA, the trends are clear“The French Textile Machinery is textile industry’s technology partner for hardware, software and services” tells Bruno Ameline, UCMTF President, to textile industrialists. About ITMA, he adds “Barcelona was an extremely efficient place to finalize orders and initiate new ones. ITMA in Barcelona was a good edition, and without the macro uncertainties concerning the global economic growth and the US - China negotiations on tariffs and trade, it would have been record breaking but, perhaps more important than the short term, it was the place to discuss, at the highest level, the future of our business with our customers/long term partners and analyze with them the major trends which are shaping our industry”.

4 October 2019


speed deficiency and save energy while, at the same time, enhance the quality of the production pro-cess. For example, NSC SCHLUM-BERGER the global specialists in textile machines for processing long staple fibres such as wool and wool-like fibres has introduce the ERA combing machine in a multi-servomotor drive design. With this new drive, most of the settings will be possible via the main control screen. The GC chain gill also ben-efits from additional axes driven by servomotors which allow more set-tings on the main control screen. All these new servomotor drives will allow more precise settings than using standard gearboxes which will enhance textile quality. Further-more these new drives and tech-nology allow recipes to be saved on each machine, data exchange between machines will be possible through a Manufacturing Execution System (MES – Industry 4.0), as is remote access to the machines in case of incidents through an Ether-net connection.

Industry 4.0A second trend is moving for-

ward : Industry 4.0. It requires more and more sensors which FIL CON-TROL provides thanks to 30 years of experience in the yarn sensors and yarn cutter industry.

After 5 years of development from Fil Control R&D team, the ring spinning market is now ready to welcome the Motion Reflective Sensor. The company was very pleased to see the high demand

in their MRS-P speed sensors for ring spinning machinery that allows monitoring, controlling and optimiz-ing the yarn manufacturer produc-tivity for better quality at lower cost. The new Motion Yarn Tension sen-sor developed for tyre and carpet yarn twisting attracted many yarn manufacturers that were looking for many years for a reliable prod-uct with homogenous output sig-nal sensors. This proven quality allowed Fil control to sign multiple contracts.

SUPERBA, the global leader in the treatment of carpet yarn; ex-panded its area of application. The new SUPERBA B403 automatic winder marked a real technological breakthrough. With its individual spindle motorization drive, com-bined with a single tension sensor per position. It enables a constant tension winding process, a very ac-curate bobbin length measuring as

well as a unique quality control for each yarn position. it opens up new opportunities in terms of winding quality. Connected through cloud computing to the new VANDEW-IELE TEXCONNECT supervision system, the B403 is part of the Factory 4.0 concept. It provides readily-available data on yarn ten-sion to supply the predictive main-tenance and reduce yarn waste, al-lowing manufacturers to make the highest quality carpets at the most economic prices. As for the new-multi-layer hot-air heat-setting line DHS3, it provides an unequaled level of evenness and a highly ho-mogenous fixation characteristic to the yarn. This new line, introduced as a complementary process to the well known pressurized saturated steam heatsetting line TVP3, en-ables the carpet manufacturer to explore new properties for different types of fibers (such as stain re-

supErba stand

October 2019 5


sistance, enhanced bulk,…) with a high energy saving and a reduced floor space.

Precise figuresA software to estimate very pre-

cisely their own annual savings ( wa-ter, energy, chemicals) was offered to its customers by ALLIANCE MA-CHINES. The dyeing and finishing machinery manufacturer, thanks to its various high technology dye-ing and finishing equipments, and particularly to an integrated drying device installed on the ROTORA beam rotating dyeing machine, has shown its creativity to develop new processes and to propose innova-tive solutions. The customers also duly appreciated the possibility to explore deeply inside the range of machines thanks to virtual reality system with 3 D lenses.

Also for the finishing and non-wovens factories, DOLLFUS &

MULLER introduced during ITMA Barcelona its improved compact-ing felt for knit finishing with ma-jor innovations. The compacting felt quality brings a special care to the fabrics thanks to its smoothest surface, has an excellent guiding and the best compacting rate in relations with its exclusive com-pacting felt design. Its sanforizing palmer felts are ideal for denim producers. At ITMA, the company showed its proven durable Sanfor felts. Furthermore, Dollfus & Muller displayed its durable printing dryer belts and introduced its transfer printing felt. This printing felt is a strong felt with a smooth non-marking surface.

RecyclingRecycling of textile wastes and

post consumer goods is expected from the consumers. It is a major trend. At ITMA 2019, LAROCHE

had a very good attendance on its booth with the usual split between North America, Europe and Asia. The surprise came from an unusual large number of visitors from Rus-sia and neighboring countries.

Laroche displayed an Airlay type “Flexiloft 2600” with improved web uniformity and weight range. which can run all types of fibers (synthetics, natural, recycled,…), blends of fibers and solid particles (foam chips, plastics, wood chips). This allows to make smart prod-ucts from renewable resources and from wastes that are otherwise discarded. Also displayed, a tear-ing machine type “JUMBO 2000” for high capacity recycling of all types of textile wastes including post-consumer clothing and carpet wastes. As a major player in tex-tile wastes recycling technologies, Laroche sees a strong trend to recycle more and more post-con-sumer wastes (from clothing, mat-tresses, carpets…) whilst industrial waste recycling remains a hot topic . With a long experience in recy-cling technologies and a technical center equipped not only with recy-cling machines but also with Airlay nonwoven lines to make innovative products, they are up to the chal-lenge.

GlobalizationITMA 2019 was, once again,

an important event for SPOOLEX activities. They met hundreds of contacts during these seven days, with very interesting projects. New contacts were made especially

ALLIANCE MACHINES

6 October 2019


from Europe, India, Turkey and Middle East. Strong interests were shown for Calemard’s compact slitter-rewinders, in particular in ap-plications where quality slitting and winding are difficult to achieve. For its part, Decoup+, the Ultrasonic Division, attracted many contacts with its wide range of ultrasonic cutting devices. Both for handheld applications or implementation on existing machines, the ultrasonic technology sparked the interest of visitors because it performs easily and quickly, clean, soft and strong edges on any synthetic textiles. Roll Concept, the technical rollers division, also performed with its in-dustrial range of low inertia rolls.

DigitalizationAs the digital revolution is a

great opportunity for all textile firms to solve their markets’ evolving expectations: flexibility, traceabil-ity, ethics, environmental durabil-ity, SCHAEFFER PRODUCTIQUE showcased its new digital solutions

specially designed for the textile industry. The solution for manag-ing a textile business is called

LarOCHE sTaND-ITMa barCELONa 2019

SolinWAI. It combines artificial in-telligence, workflows and native in-terconnectivity through Ecoltex 2.0 (based on the eBIZ 4.0 European standard). SolinWAI’s new benefits were made crystalclear: improved customer experience and satisfac-tion, productivity, traceability, lean mindset, continuous improvement, etc. An example of data integration straight from production units was presented through FYBERmes (a NSC. SCHLUMBERGER solution), enabled by SOLINWAI’s global ap-proach on a firm’s digital infrastruc-ture. Real-time integration of virtu-alized data is a founding pillar of Industry 4.0.

SCHAEFFER PRODUCTIQUE

October 2019 7


Italian textile machinery orders, as elaborated by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, for the period from April to June 2019, fell by 19% compared to the same peri-od in 2018. The index orders value came in at 84 basis points (2015=100).

Orders for Italian machinery manufac-turers were negative in foreign markets, with a 21% decline and an absolute in-dex value of 78.6 basis points. On the domestic front, on the other hand, orders remained stationary compared to the

Italian Textile Machinery Orders Intake Down in Second Quarter

second quarter 2018. The absolute index value came in at 140.1 basis points.

ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi thus commented the economic situation, “The orders index as compiled by our Economics Department perfectly reflects the situation that we as entrepreneurs have found in many markets in this first part of the year. The uncertainty due to a tension-laden geopolitical situation was further weighed down for our sector by the awaiting of ITMA, the world’s premier textile machinery fair, which took place in

ACIMIT represents an industrial sector that comprises roughly 300 manufacturers (employing around 12,000 people), which produce machinery for an overall worth of around 2.5 billion euros, of which 83% are exported. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the hallmarks that have made Italian textile machinery worldwide leaders.

Barcelona last June.”

“ITMA is our industry’s main show-case, held every four years to present the most innovative textile technology solutions,” explains Zucchi. “Many of our customers have postponed investments to await news presented at the fair.” The level of success, measured in terms of overall visitors and contacts recorded by Italian machinery manufacturers during the event, lends a positive note for year-end growth on foreign markets.

The 18th edition of ITMA, the global textile machinery trade fair which has just concluded in Barcelona, has proven to be a great success for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. ACIMIT Pres-ident Alessandro Zucchi stated that he noted “a great many satisfied exhibitors and visitors, which is a clear sign of op-timism for Italy’s textile machinery sec-tor.”

ITMA 2019, held in Barcelona last 20 to 26 June, has closed with some posi-tive figures. Overall, the halls that held 1717 exhibitors witnessed the passage of 105,000 visitors from 137 countries over the show’s seven days.

Italy confirmed its leadership position as the Country with the most exhibitors (364), coming in second in terms of the number of visitors (10% of the total at-tendance figures), just behind Spain. The main visitor Countries also included India (8%), Turkey and Germany (7%).

“ITMA remains a must-see event for the industry, and the primary global stage at which to show new develop-ments in technology,” emphasizes Ales-

sandro Zucchi, President of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers. “As far as our own Coun-try is concerned, the number of Italian exhibitors and visitors bears witness to the vitality of our textile industry. The visibility of Italy’s contingent and pres-ence is the result of the profound com-mitment, including in economic terms, made by our businesses, along with indispensable support in the realization of significant promotional initiatives for ITMA carried out by the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and the Italian Trade Agency.”

Solutions for increasingly eco-sus-tainable textile processes were being proposed by the majority of exhibitors. Here too, Italy proved to be top of its class, with a product offering that pro-vides savings in water, energy and raw materials. Sustainability was also the main focus at the ACIMIT press confer-ence, at which the ACIMIT Green Label Awards were assigned to two Italian machinery manufacturers, Tonello S.r.l and Loptex S.r.l., who have stood out for their outstanding commitment among

ACIMIT’s associated members, in reduc-ing the quantity of equivalent emissions of carbon dioxide produced during the operation of their machinery over the last few years.

Italian companies have also been major players in the wide scale modern-ization project of the textile industry in Egypt, presented at ITMA by represen-tatives of the Egyptian government. Pro-jected investments between 2019 and 2021 will amount to one billion euros, with the first phase including machinery by some notable Italian machinery man-ufacturers: EFI Reggiani, ITEMA, Marzoli and Savio.

In conclusion, president Zucchi’s comment: “The many innovations we’ve seen in Barcelona, both in the areas of sustainability and digitalization, certainly enhanced the interest of countless visi-tors. I believe that for a great many ma-chinery manufacturers, the combination of sustainability and innovation will once again represent the key to success at the next edition of ITMA, slated to be held in Milan from 8 to 14 June 2023.”

ITMA 2019: RESOUNDING SUCCESS FOR ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS IN BARCELONA

8 October 2019


UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization) organizes, in collaboration with ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency, a symposium on Italian textile technologies was held in Cairo, Egypt, on 25 and 26 September. The initiative was part of a broader UNIDO project to support the local cotton textile industry for the purchase of sustainable and innovative technologies. The seminar dedicated to Italian textile technologies, according to UNIDO, is a fundamental part of the dialogue between local industry and Italian technology excellence.

The technological seminar “Innovation in the textile sector: latest trends and perspectives for Egypt”, in which Italian manufacturers presented their up-to-date technologies, included b2b meetings with local operators and some visits to local textile companies. As many as 16 Italian companies participated in the initiative promoted by UNIDO: Arioli, Brazzoli, Color Service, Danitech, Fadis, Ferraro, Itema, Marzoli, Mesdan, Ms Printing Solutions, Reggiani Macchine, Rite, Savio, Ssm Giudici, Tonello e Ugolini.

“This was an important occasion for the Italian textile machinery industry, explains Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT, presenting the initiative. The Egyptian Government has recently presented the large-scale modernization project of the local textile industry. The value of the investments to be made between 2019 and 2021 is approximately one billion euros. In the first phase they will also affect the machines of some well-known Italian suppliers. Zucchi continues: “This technological symposium is aimed to strengthen Italian textile machinery presence in the Country, which is already the first Middle Eastern market for Italian textile machinery manufacturers”.

In 2018, the Italian exports of the sector in Egypt recorded a surge, reaching a value of 45 million euros, up 79% compared to the previous year. After years of stagnation the investments of Egyptian textiles have finally regained momentum and Italian manufacturers are ready to take advantage of the new business opportunities that arise.

EGYPT: TECHNOLOGICAL SYMPOSIUM FOR ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY

Italian textile machinery export to Egypt (million euro, y/y change)

Source: ACIMIT

October 2019 9


TEXTILE MACHINERY: THE ITALIAN PRESENCE ATEXPOTEXTIL PERU

Expotextil, the fair for the textile and garment sector in Peru, will be held from 24 to 27 October in Lima. At Expotextil there will also be a large representation of Italian textile machinery manufacturers. Inside the Italian pavilion organized by Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, 18 Italian companies will exhibit: Arioli, Biancalani, Bianco, Btsr, Danitech, Ferraro, Itema, Lawer, Marzoli, Mcs, Ms Printing Solutions, Proxima, Pugi Group, Ratti, Roj, Santex Rimar Group, Stalam and Ugolini.

In Peru, the textile and clothing industry is one of the leading sectors of the local economy. In fact, the Country is the world’s leading producer of alpaca fibers (over 95% of the world production of this fiber is produced in Peru). There is also the cultivation and processing of cotton, especially in the northern area of the Country. Finally, the sector is supported by government programs aimed at increasing the quantity and quality of products made in Peru.

“In a framework of technological renewal of the Peruvian textile industry,” said Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT, the Italian presence at Expotextil is strategic. If it wants to remain competitive, the local industry needs to renew its machinery and to improve the quality of its items. The strategic partnership with the Italian technological offer is essential for textile companies that aim to increase their competitiveness with respect to imported products.”

The textile industry in Peru has already benefited, over the years, from the partnership with Italian textile machinery manufacturers. Peru is the fourth largest market for Italian sales in South America. In 2018, sales of Italian textile machinery in the Country reached a value of around 10 million euros. Moreover, in the first four months of 2019 Italian exports to Peru increased by 8% compared to the same period in 2018.

10 October 2019

Italian textile machinery export to Peru (million euro, y/y change)

Source: ACIMIT


SpinningTruetzschler, the market leader

in spinning preparation, introduced a new high production Card TC 19i – the first intelligent card that auto-matically and permanently optimis-es the carding gap, which is very important for yarn quality. The TC 19i card has a new feature called T-GO, the gap optimiser, which en-sures the ideal carding gap at all times. The TC 19i is also equipped with features like waste control WCT for maximum utilisation of raw material, nep sensor NCT – online quality monitoring system. They had also displayed the new portable Bale Opener BO-P with a work-off width of 2.9 m or 3.5 m. The bale lay-down can have a maximum length of 60 m. With a

working width of 3.5 m, up to 390 bales can be laid down and can easily achieve production of up to 2500 kg/hr.

Truetzschler also displayed a new auto leveller draw frame TD 10 with the latest drive technology, smart servo creel with individual sliver sensor and large filter box. A notable feature is that the power consumption of the filter fan is only 0.4 kW/hr. The new TD 8 draw frame requires 20% less space and comes with the T-LED display. In addition, Truetzschler introduced digital solutions like ‘My Mill’ app, ‘My Production’ app, and ‘My Wire’ app.

Savio is specialised in yarn-fin-ishing segment being the leading

supplier of winding, twisting and rotor spinning machines. Savio of-ficially launched the new fully auto-matic rotor spinning machine HE-LIOS designed to meet the most diverse needs of the industry with more flexibility in the field of open end spinning. The machine can be offered up to 520 spindles with piecer and doffer, with flexibility for manual piecing as well.

Other displays from SAVIO in-clude the new EcoPulsarS PLUS with features like package nozzle with yarn end sensor that reduces up to 20% of hard waste, new disc type tensioner – a must for core spun yarn, RM spindles in link system to process ‘B’ grade bob-bins separately and double wax-ing device (for woollen); the Multi

A.T.E. and its Principals at ITMA Barcelona 2019A.T.E. and its principals were present in full strength at ITMA 2019 at Barcelona, Spainwith a series of product launches and the display of innovative technologies across the textile value chain. A.T.E. and its principals once again proved that they will continue to be the trailblazer in introducing trendsetting technologies for the world. Their overall theme encompassed machine intelligence, automation, and sustainability.

A.T.E. team at ITMA 2019

October 2019 11


link technology where up to six ring frames can be linked to one winder; P.T.S – Package Tracking System with an RFID tag inside the cone, for uniquely identifying the product and track the processes and op-erations.

SAVIO also demonstrated the latest Industry 4.0 innovation with its ‘Smart Factory’ components in three different levels – ‘Basic Pack’, ‘Business Pack’, and ‘Ex-ecutive pack’.

Spinning Accessories TeraSpin, renowned for its pre-

cision spinning machinery com-ponents, had exhibited its range of products and also introduced TeraSpin Flexi weighting arms PK S 3000 series for short staple ring frames and TeraSpin Premium spindles.

Because of the obvious benefits of the mechanical (spring loaded) drafting over the pneumatic draft-ing, mechanical drafting is increas-ingly preferred by the spinning industry globally. However, re-placement of the complete drafting system (weighting arm, top rollers and cradles) along with other aux-iliaries is an expensive proposition. TeraSpin PK S 3000 series Flexi weighting arms help to overcome such challenges as they allow the use of the existing drafting parts, compact systems and their fixing arrangements and derive long-term benefits of improved produc-tivity and best yarn quality.

TeraSpin Premium spindles are designed for significant sav-ings in energy over the standard spindles. In addition, the Premium spindles reduce spindle vibration and noise.

Truetzschler Card Clothing (TCC) presented the new metallic wires. The new materials of this su-perTip clothing series increase the service life and thus improve eco-nomic efficiency. With the new MT 52 another special flat clothing has been added to our MAGNOTOP series. MT 52 is used for fine yarns in ring and rotor spinning mills. Es-pecially for high card production, this flat offers outstanding stability values.

TCC also introduced the new PRECISETOP flat clothing and My Wires app. The new PRECISE-TOP flat clothing is essential for the intelligent self-optimisation of the settings between flat top and cyl-inder in TC 19i. My Wire app helps customers to manage all wire relat-ed tasks easily with information on the status of clothings and service intervals, thus helping to plan for reorders of card wires. My Wires app is offered free of charge and it can also be used for competitive products.

MAG Solvics, leaders in test-ing equipment, introduced the new HVT Genius 2 and AccuNeL instruments. HVT Genius 2 is a fully automatic cotton fibre testing instrument to test length, strength, micronaire, maturity, colour, mois-

ture and trash (both real trash con-tent by weight by gravimetric meth-od) and surface trash by an optical method. AccuNeL is a new testing equipment to check neps, length and trash properties of cotton fi-bres in raw cotton or card, combed, and draw frame slivers.

MAG also displayed: Spindle monitoring systems

(SPinFO) with roving stop mo-tion

UH Expert 2020 evenness tes-ter with auto cop changer

TensoMaster – fully automatic single yarn strength tester

AccuTrash – fully automatic trash separator, to test real trash by gravimetric method

UniStrech XE – multi-strength tester to test the strength of yarn and fabric

Fabric FormingKarl Mayer, a world renowned

market leader, showcased a range of innovative machines for warp knitting, warp preparation, techni-cal textiles, and solutions for net-working machines with the digital world. Also on display were an exciting array of fabrics with exam-ples of applications and informa-tion on market potential.

Following two machines with digital features were premiered at the show:

Tricot machine HKS 3-M-ON which can be linked directly to

12 October 2019


the KM.ON cloud via the k.ey system. This enables the lap-ping data required to be loaded directly onto the machine.

Raschel jacquard RSJ 4/1 ON using Karl Mayer’s high-tech connectivity system, k. innova-tion, to optimally support virtual textile development, which is much more than just a pattern-ing software through KM.On concept.

In addition, the newly configured RDPJ 6/2 EL was on display with its exceptional range of 4D-KNIT products. The textiles produced on this double-bar raschel ma-chine feature a wide range of pro-nounced, three-dimensional de-signs on the outer sides along with openwork patterns that give them an edge over circular weft-knitted products.

One of the highlights of the show was the demonstration of the warp-knitted textiles with well-thought-out designs, under the theme of “Future of Textiles”. For example, the complete suite along with shirt made up of warp knitted fabric showcased the possibilities of substituting woven fabrics with warp-knitted fabrics to minimise costs and environmental impacts. This caught the attention of many Indian visitors who felt that this could be a game changer in tex-tiles in India.

Other highlights include the dis-play of the new innovative MULTI-MATIC®32 which requires less time and effort for yarn management, offering impressive cost-benefit ad-vantages. The new LINK-MATIC® system allows for the automatic knotting of the beams within a batch on the PRODYE-S indigo dyeing

machine and the PROSIZE® siz-ing machine when changing the beams within a batch. This enables lower operator and changeover times with increased productivity and less yarn wastage.

The performance of the PRO-WARP® sectional warping ma-chine working at a site in Hausen was demonstrated live, which was viewed with great interest. This ma-chine operates with the new PRO-ACTIVE warping system and the demo showed how this self-learn-ing system can optimise the warp beam quality and consequently the weaving efficiency.

Karl Mayer also showcased its new GREENDYE technology un-der the slogan of SUSTAINABLE DENIM. This innovative system uses the advantages of indigo dye-ing in a nitrogen atmosphere to

Arvind Ltd. team with Mr Anuj Bhagwati (A.T.E.) and team

October 2019 13


achieve greater efficiency and sus-tainability in denim production.

In technical textiles, the new ma-chine, SIM.PLY, riveted the atten-tion of the visitors. This innovation produces thermoplastic, unidirec-tional tapes using fibre spreading technology.

In the carpet and synthetics segments, A.T.E.’s principals, Tru-etzschler, Power Heat Set, Zim-mer, Matthys, Xetma, China Tex-ma-tech were present at the show. Truetzschler displayed their latest development, Optima, a BCF yarn production line. Power Heat-Set displayed their latest developments like TwinAccu, the main equipment of their GVA 8+ model of carpet yarn heat setting machine. Mat-thys Group presented equipment required for cross sewing which operates on auto mode.

Zimmer displayed many attrac-tive designs printed on carpets, mainly woven carpets, which at-tracted curious visitors.

Processing A.T.E.’s principals Osthoff,

Goller, Monforts, Monfongs, Fong’s, Color Service, Corino, Sta-lam, Zimmer, Mahlo, Texpa, Danti Paolo and Guarneri participated and displayed their machines at ITMA 2019.

Few of the principals had show-cased important innovations. Mon-forts had displayed their new ver-sion of stenter which is designed to

reduce the energy cost. They had introduced a new heat recovery system with air cleaning. Monforts also introduced warp sheet dyeing by using E-control technology. The highlight of this process is that the warp sheet can be bleached by the E-control range and without any intermediate wash the warp sheet can be taken for the dyeing pro-cess. Monforts also had displayed various warp sheet dyed samples, dyed with reactive, sulphur and in-digo dyes. Almost, all the visitors were excited about this new tech-nology and thought that it could make a big revolution in the textile processing industry.

Zimmer (rotary printing) had showcased duplex printing in a ro-tary printing machine and also had displayed the new feature of lifting the print head while printing opera-tion. By using this technology the rotary machine also can be print-ed the repeat patterns which are printed by the flat-bed printing ma-chine. The visitors were highly at-tracted by this innovation. Zimmer (digital printing) had displayed their Colaris model machine for printing with pigment ink. They can offer up to 96 print heads.

Color Service had displayed a complete package for lab dispens-ing which includes dyes as well as chemicals.

During the event, A.T.E. had entered into a tie-up with Match Point, Germany, which is a pioneer in supplying diamond-cut papers

for peaching process. Match Point had displayed their innovation of peaching machine exclusively for the denim fabric.

A.T.E. HUBER Envirotech Pri-vate Limited (AHET) displayed models of ZLD plant and solar sludge dryer. AHET's well proven technologies such as 'AAA', SU-FRO, and sludge management generated keen interest among the visitors. 'AAA' is a proven solution for treatment textile wastewaters that enhances biological treatment efficiency and minimises sludge generation. SUFRO enable waste-water recycle and ZLD for textile wastewater treatment. The solar sludge dryer SRT is an active so-lar dryer for drying the dewatered sludge up to 85-90% solids. Ideal for Indian climate, it offers very at-tractive payback when compared with the ever-rising sludge disposal costs.

Speaking to Textile India Prog-ress at the end of the show, Mr G V Aras, Director, A.T.E. Enter-prises Private Limited, said “A.T.E. group and our principals had a suc-cessful participation at ITMA 2019, and we are very happy with the overall response to the show. The Indian visitors were much higher than many other countries, which is what makes me highly upbeat as it shows the interest of the Indian en-trepreneurs in the latest technolo-gies. Once the investment cycle in India turns positive, A.T.E. expects the business to pick up for the new generation machinery and acces-sories introduced at ITMA 2019".

14 October 2019


Starting at the beginning of Sep-tember, Filip Miermans will head the department of “Corporate Commu-nications & Investor Relations” at Lenzing AG. In this capacity, he will report directly to Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing. Filip Miermans will succeed Wal-traud Kaserer, who will continue to support Lenzing in the future in the field of public affairs.

Filip Miermans has specialized knowledge and longstanding ex-perience in communications and marketing. Before joining the Len-zing Group, Mr. Miermans served as Head of Marketing & Corporate Communications for the Lower Austrian mechanical engineer-ing company Lisec Austria GmbH since the year 2013. Previously he held management positions in marketing and communications

at Miba AG, Heradesign (Knauf Insulation) and the Plansee sub-sidiary Ceratizit. Born in Belgium,

Miermans has lived in Austria for 20 years, and is the father of three children.

“We succeeded in attracting Fil-ip Miermans, an experienced and skilled communications expert with a very high degree of personal in-tegrity, to work for Lenzing. He will make a major contribution towards the ongoing implementation of the corporate strategy sCore TEN”, says Stefan Doboczky.

Filip Miermans, commenting on his new position at Lenzing, adds: “I very much look forward to the tasks awaiting me in a company in which sustainability is already em-bedded in its products. The fibers made of wood are biodegradable and compostable at the end of their life cycle. For me this is credible sustainability.”

The Lenzing Group stands for ecologically responsible production of specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood. As an innovation leader, Lenzing is a partner of global textile and nonwoven manufacturers and drives many new technological developments.The Lenzing Group’s high-quality fibers form the basis for a variety of textile applications ranging from elegant ladies clothing to versatile denims and high-performance sports clothing. Due to their consistent high quality, their biodegradability and compostability Lenzing fibers are also highly suitable for hygiene products and agricultural applications.The business model of the Lenzing Group goes far beyond that of a traditional fiber producer. Together with its customers and partners, Lenzing develops innovative products along the value chain, creating added value for consumers. The Lenzing Group strives for the efficient utilization and processing of all raw materials and offers solutions to help redirect the textile sector towards a closed-loop economy.Key Facts & Figures Lenzing Group 2018Revenue: EUR 2.18 bnNameplate capacity: 1,034,000 tonsEmployees: 6,839TENCEL™, VEOCEL™, LENZING™, REFIBRA™, ECOVERO™, LENZING MODAL™, LENZING VISCOSE™, MICROMODAL™ und PROMODAL™ are trademarks of Lenzing AG.

Filip Miermans is the new head of Corporate Communications & Investor Relations at Lenzing

Lenzing AG - Filip Miermans, Vice President Corporate Communications & Investor Relations

October 2019 15


The Lenzing Group received confirmation of the full biodegradability of its fibers in fresh water by the independent research laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and existing international certifications conducted by OWS and issued by TÜV Austria verify that LENZING™ Viscose fibers, LENZING™ Modal fibers and LENZING™ Lyocell fibers are biodegradable in all natural and industrial environments: in the soil, compost as well as in fresh and in marine water.

LENZING™ fibers are fully biodegradable in water, soil and compost

Stefan Doboczky (CEO)

Organic Waste Systems and TÜV confirm fiber biodegradability also in fresh water

All white LENZING™ Viscose, Modal and Lyocell fibers are now certified for all environments

Global legislators aim at limiting plastic waste persisting in the environment for centuries

EU Single-Use Plastics Directive partly regulates usage of plastic products

Biodegradable materials such as wood-based fibers are the best alternative to single-use plastics

The biodegradability of cellulosic products and the synthetic fiber polyester was tested in fresh water at OWS according to valid international standards, e.g. ISO

14851. At the end of the trial period, LENZING™ wood-based cellulosic fibers, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in contrast to synthetic polyester fibers. The fact that synthetic materials are not biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans but also all marine organisms and us humans.

“The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibers returning to nature after use. This complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core value of Biodegradation in different environments

16 October 2019


sustainability embedded in our company strategy sCore TEN and is the ‘raison d’etre’ of our company”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along the value chain but also improve the state of the entire textile and nonwovens industries.”

Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge challenges with respect to littering. If current

trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national legislation in the EU member states.

Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly contain plastic and were thus identified

as one of the product categories to be singled out. Less polluting alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood-based cellulosic fibers. Plastic waste including microplastic can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single-use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by definition and thus do not require recycling.

Pioneering pilot project con-ducted with Hong Kong based brand Chicks

A large majority of consum-ers wants brands to disclose their supply chain

Transparency ensured from fiber-to-retail

The Lenzing Group has made a huge leap forward in introducing blockchain technology, allowing for a new level of transparency and traceability in the textile industry. After joining the platform of the technology company TextileGenesis™ earlier this year, the world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood presented the first pilot at this year’s Fashion Summit in Hong Kong on September 05, 2019. This pioneering pilot project was conducted in close coop-eration with TextileGenesis™, WWF and Hong Kong based brand Chicks.

A baseline survey on EU consumer at-titudes to sustainability and supply chain transparency in the fashion industry con-

ducted by Ipsos MORI in October 2018 shows that a large majority of consum-ers (80 %) wants brands to disclose their supply chain. The blockchain technology enables brands and consumers to identify TENCEL™ branded fibers across each production and distribution step from fiber-to-retail of the finished garment or home textiles. The technology also allows con-sumers to verify the garment composition and the underlying textile supply chain at the point of sale, simply by scanning the barcode with a mobile device.

“Together with TextileGenesis™ we pursue the ambitious goal to achieve an unparalleled level of transparency for fash-ion brands and consumers. We will use blockchain technology to maximize the digital traceability of fibers, thus making an important contribution to green up the fash-ion industry”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “This strong belief in and commitment to sustainability will support the business with TENCEL™ fibers.”

In an industry’s first, Lenzing issued blockchain based TENCEL™ fibercoins to

its supply chain partners in direct relation to physical shipments. These digital tokens serve as an authentication mechanism, against any adulteration, and provides secure digital chain-of-custody across the entire textile value chain. Recognizing that data integrity and ease of use are critical, the supply chain players conducted trans-actions through the data upload mecha-nism on the platform. To ensure real-world complexity, a total of 49 distinct garment stock-keeping unit (~25000 pieces), of Chicks, were tracked on the digital plat-form from fibers up to retail.

“This is an important milestone for the apparel industry. Our focus is to drive meaningful step-change in an industry where less than 5 percent of top 250 ap-parel brands can track their garments back to the fiber origin”, says Amit Gautam, CEO & Founder of TextileGenesis™.

Lenzing is carrying out further pilot tests over the next few months involving partners along the entire value chain and expects the platform to be fully operational as of 2020.

Lenzing presented first blockchain pilot project at Hong Kong Fashion Summit

October 2019 17


Lenzing AG - Contract with wood PLC 2019

With the recently announced plans to establish a lyocell produc-tion facility in Thailand, the Lenzing Group is taking an important step in meeting the strong demand for lyo-cell fibers and is further strengthen-ing the company´s position as an industry leader in the specialty cel-lulosic fibers market. The proposed plant will be the largest lyocell plant in the world, with an annual capaci-ty of 100,000 tons. The total invest-ment volume for the first produc-tion line, including infrastructure and site development, amounts to approximately EUR 400 million. Up to four such lines can be potentially integrated and operated on the site. The project is of great importance to Lenzing as it is the first step in bringing lyocell production to Asia, featuring the largest markets, the most important customers and the most extensive growth potential in specialty fiber production.

Industrial Park 304 in Prachinburi: the ideal site for this project

The project to build a plant in Prachinburi, Thailand was approved in June 2019. Industrial Park 304 in Prachinburi, located about 150 kilometers east of the Thai capital Bangkok, was selected due to its excellent overall infrastructure and the sustainable biogenic energy supply, which will help Lenzing to meet its ambitious CO2 targets. Above all, the excellent coopera-tion with the Thailand Board of In-vestment (BOI), the country’s free

trade agreements with China and easy access to ASEAN’s growing middle class market were all de-cisive factors in selecting this site. The availability of local staff (for the planned workforce of close to 300 employees) with the required educational background to drive growth was also an important fac-tor. The well-established operator of the industrial park, with whom Lenzing has already signed con-tracts for utility services, was also a reason for choosing Prachinburi.

Wood – the ideal engineering partner

A further important step was the selection of a professional en-gineering partner for crucial tasks such as detailed engineering, pur-chasing and construction manage-ment and supervision, including quality, safety, cost and progress control. These services will be provided as part of an Engineer-ing, Procurement and Construction Management (EPCM) contract.

With Wood, Lenzing has found the ideal partner for this – both companies signed an EPCM con-tract on the 15th of August 2019. Wood was selected on the basis of

having the skills needed for a proj-ect of this size and an experienced team with a strong reputation for delivering in line with project stipu-lations. An important element for Lenzing is the start-up date of this project which was also confirmed by Wood. Following the plant com-pletion in the third quarter of 2021, Lenzing expects to produce the first fibers at this site in the fourth quarter of the same year.

“Growing organically on a global scale requires a strong partner in designing and building up the pro-duction assets. I am convinced that we have found the right partner in Wood. During the kick-off meetings we could feel the energy of the in-tegrated team and their eagerness to drive that project to a successful completion and start-up in the sec-ond half of 2021”, says Heiko Ar-nold, CTO of the Lenzing Group.

Mike Collins, President of Capi-tal Projects in Wood’s Asset Solu-tions business across Europe, Af-rica, Asia & Australia, adds: “We are delighted to have been chosen by Lenzing to help deliver what will be the world’s largest lyocell plant. Being selected to lead a project of this scale and complexity is testa-ment to the outstanding techni-cal capability we have in our Asia Pacific business, and our strong understanding of the local market environment in Thailand where we have been operating for over 50 years.”

Lenzing contracts Wood to deliver world´s largest lyocell plantSbtl.: Professional partner confirms start-up date of the project in Thailand

18 October 2019


In the year of its 55th anniversary of establishment, Master located at Macherio (Italy), a leader in manufacturing of continuous Indigo Dyeing Machines, after agreeing to the request of patents transfer about the dyeing into inert environment of yarn for warp for denim fabric, implicit acknowledgement of their value, has changed its specific “core business”.Interpreting the new demands of the textile market, Master gives life to a new “core business” transferring its exceptional and exclusive know-how, fruit of decades of research and industrial application of this innovative technology, to the field of fabric dyeing. Hence Master introduces in his field the possibility to dye in accordance to the most modern concepts of sustainability.Master inters in this sector introducing a new and revolutionary machine for dyeing, into inert environment, with indigo and other reduction dyes, a several kind of fabric and denim.With this new machine, which is multipurpose, named “BINGO®” (pat), in a simply ingenious way, the dyeing of fabrics with indigo and reduction dyes takes a new form, advanced and exclusive technology based on innovation, ecology and economy.It is a compact, flexible and versatile machine. It goes beyond tradition, to open new market opportunities.

Master Eco-Friendly Technologies Indigo Dyeing Machines

Master in Indigo Dyeing MachinesA revolutionary patented solution for fabrics dyeing with indigo

and other reduced dyes.Exclusive sustainable technology for sustainable production

Beyond the tradition, looking to the future, to open new boundaries to the most ancient color. New marketing opportunities in the respect of the most strict

eco-friendly concepts for indigo and colored fabrics.Multi-process system automatically controlled

October 2019 19


20 October 2019


The starting conceptEven good ideas, sometimes, need to be re-interpreted to be adapted to technology and market evolutions.BINGO is exactly the most modern and advanced example of this concept.Master, strongly supported by his long experience in dyeing machines, has started analyzing today key points of textile market to develop this brand new machine that, recovering some classic production technology concepts, represents a revolutionary solution for fabric dyeing.

The targets Master has pursued while designing Bingo have been:– Flexibility in processes– Elasticity in lot lengths from short to long lot– Absolute reliability of results– Advanced sustainability.The technology concepts identified as the most suitable to achieve these targets is coming from the “jigger”, one of the most flexible dyeing machine still today largely utilized.In the past Master has already contributed to the development of special jigger versions with the famous “Jumbo” version, realized for M/s Candiani for the dyeing of workwear fabrics with Blue Hydron dyes.

The main advantages offered by the jigger are:– All-in-one machine: the complete process takes place

in the machine– Bi-directional movement of the fabric allowing the

succession of process steps– Reduced space– Flexibility in lot lengths, including short lengths.

(Jumbo Jigger Candiani)

October 2019 21


The innovationMaster has strongly worked to re-engineer the jigger concept combining the mentioned advantages with his well experimented dyeing technology in Nitrogen atmosphere.The result is Bingo: a revolutionary machine, the combination of a strong background with the most innovative and sustainable dyeing process.Bingo can perform dyeing processes based on indigo and other reduction dyes (Sulphur, VAT, etc.) for denim and other fabrics.

Machine key features Two-way alternate fabric directions: this solution, typically belonging to jigger machines,

is allowing to perform the entire process in the same machine, in a reduced space and in a much more economical way compared with the long and expensive classic dyeing lines.

Compact construction: the machine has been designed considering the increasing demand of short lots and the necessity to minimize wastage. The use of a leader cloth is allowing a “zero wastage” production.

Nitrogen dyeing technology: this innovative dyeing technology, developed and improved by Master in the last 15 years, is assuring process conditions not possible with traditional machines, allowing drastic and considerable savings in chemicals, water and energy. No nitrogen consumption, except the initial filling.

Single and Multi-dip versions: Bingo is available in two versions, depending of dyeing targets. The machine is fully automatically controlled and can run the entire process, including pre-dyeing and post-dyeing treatments in a completely autonomous way.

Package delivery: the machine is pre-assembled and tested in our workshop including complete pipelines for the machine and the kitchen, realized with the best and most reliable components. This solution is drastically reducing erection and start up time assuring the best realization.

Production capacity Production capacity is directly depending on the number of steps of the performed

process. Considering a standard process, including:

o 1 step for pre-treatment (wetting-scouring-etc.)o 1 step dyeingo 2 steps post-dyeing treatment (washing-fixing-etc.)It is possible to produce up to 2.500.000 m/year, increasing to 3.250.000 in case of no

22 October 2019


pre-treatment step (dyeing on dry fabric or external wetting). In case of higher production volumes required, it is also possible to install Bingo in

combination with existing washing lines.

Dyeing resultsAs above mentioned, process flexibility has been one of the targets pursued when designing Bingo.

Thanks to innovating technology and engineering, all the dyeing parameters can be adjusted according to needs: Color intensity Fixation degree Color penetration Dyeing bath volumes Dipping time Reaction/Diffusion timeAll these possibilities have been tested during several trials on our IndigoLab.

Technical data Materials : stainless steel AISI316 Standards roller width : 2.000 mm Maximum fabric width : 1.800 mm Operational speed : 30 m/min Maximum fabric rolls diameter : 2.000 mm Poli-functional boxes:

- liquor content according to different levels o High + High : 3.600 l o High + Low : 2.150 l o Low + Low : 700 l Squeezing max pressure : 5 tons (equipressure) Squeezing rollers diam. : 318.3 mm Installed power : 44 kW Overall length : 17.5 m

October 2019 23


Master history (since 1963)We have been designing and manufacturing only dyeing machines for over fifty years.

We are the only ones to have a R&D department with a laboratory and pilot plant for the study, research and testing of new ecological dyeing technologies.

Concerning continuous dyeing of warps, we have:

1972: manufactured Europe’s first indigo slasher dyeing machine. 1975: manufactured the first dyeing “modular” machine – INDIGO model. 1980: manufactured the world’s first dyeing machine INDIGOLOOP model. 1981: manufactured “BI-LOOP” type machine, evolution of INDIGOLOOP model. 1985: manufactured the dyeing machine INDIGOFLOW model, unsurpassed for its technology 1991: patented the oxidation intensifier “RAPIDSKY”. 1993: patented the “TWINFLOW” vats, for the dyeing at full capacity with indigo and at reduced capacity with other dyestuffs. 1993: manufactured the first machine for the dyeing of two overlapped warp chains, LT/2000 mod. (M/s Legler pat.), with automatic setting of the dye cycle fully monitor equipped – with quick Lot change system “WARP LINK”. 1995: patented “RAPIDWASH” vats, enhance washing with sensible water saving. 1997: patented the “ECORAPIDWASH” vats, evolution of the “rapidwash” model. 2004: patented “GENIUS1”, dyeing integrated module, in inert environment, for indigo and colordenim. 2005: manufactured the first indigo rope dyeing machine, INDIGOROPE, ergonomic and fully automatic - modernity added to tradition. 2006: patented “GENIUS2”, dyeing integrated module, in inert environment for indigo and sulphur colours. 2006: patented “GENIUS3”, dyeing integrated module, in inert environment, with foam dyestuff. 2007: manufactured the computerized system for hydrosulphite ponderal dosing and dissolving, with automatic loader. 2008: manufactured the inert environment dyeing machine, INDIGOGENIUS model - the most evolved technology, ecologic and economic. 2010: patented the “IDR” Indigo Dynamic Reduction system, for the use of powder indigo, with the advantages of the indigo solution. 2015: patented the “Ecoturbowash” turbodynamic washing system, multiplies the washing effect halving the water consumption. 2016: patented the oxidation intensifier “DEEPSKY”. 2016: patented oxidation groups “ECOSKY”, with variable and recoverable yarn capacity, reduce significantly the yarn waste to batch change. 2016: patented “EUREKA” multifunctional module for indigo and sulphur dyestuffs dye, both traditionally in air and in inert environment. 2018: Manufactured the first machine in the world, “EUREKA” model usable both in air and in inert environment.

Concerning discontinuous dyeing of fabrics, we have: 2018: patented dyeing machine, multifunctional, in inert environment, “BINGO” model.

24 October 2019


Shri Ronak Rughani, Chairman and Shri S. Balaraju, Executive Director, SRTEPC met Shri Ravi Capoor, Secretary Textiles on 14th August 2019 in New Delhi. The Chairman and Executive Director welcomed the Secretary Textiles with a bouquet of flowers for taking charge as the Secretary Textiles.

The Chairman and Executive Di-rector placed before the Secretary Textiles the current issues pertain-ing to Indian MMF textiles which are hampering the exports of MMF textiles. They urged the Secretary Textiles to take action for promo-tion of MMF textile exports.

Some of the issues taken up by them were:

Perception on Indian textile which is still towards the natu-ral fibres segment needs to be changed as the global trend has already shifted towards MMF textile industry.

Organizing of an Annual Interna-tional event in India on a regular basis

Include developed markets such as US, Turkey, Germany, Italy, etc. under the MAI scheme also to extend benefits.

Textile Merchant Converter/Ex-porter/Merchant Exporter to be considered as a Manufacturer Exporter

Inclusion of MMF fabrics, yarns and fibres in the RoSCTL Scheme

Including of Man-made fibre and yarn under the Interest Equal-ization Scheme.

Increase Duty Drawback rates of the MMF textile products

Higher MEIS rates to be consid-ered on all the MMF textile prod-ucts

The Chairman also requested the Secretary Textiles to take steps to encourage the production of MMF textiles through the follow-ing:

Introducing schemes for the MMF textile segment in line with

cotton, jute, silk, etc. Strengthen ATUFS for man-

made fibres and filament yarns.

The implementation of GST in July 2017 was a historic movement for the country but the man-made fibre textile segment has been discrimi-nated as compared to other sec-tors. The MMF textile value chain is kept under different tax slabs due to which the entire MMF textile val-ue chain falls under Inverted Duty Structure. The anomalies need to suitably addressed favourably on priority basis.

The other issues which also to be

SRTEPC CHAIRMAN AND EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR MEET SECRETARY TEXTILES

Shri Ravi Capoor, Secretary Textiles welcomed with a bouquet of flowers by Shri Ronak Rughani, Chairman, SRTEPC

October 2019 25


taken up on priority basis are the Denial of refund of IGST/GST on capital goods and Burden of dou-ble taxation on ocean freight.

The Chairman and Executive Di-rector appealed to the Secretary Textiles to look into the matter and find solutions so that it would help in enhancing the competitiveness of our exports.

The Secretary Textiles assured SRTEPC Chairman and Executive Director that he would take up the matter suitably. Shri Ronak Rughani, Chairman and Shri S. Balaraju, Executive Director,

SRTEPC in discussion with Shri Ravi Capoor, Secretary TextilesCourtesy: INFO SRTEPC

The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) is saddened by the sudden demise of Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta, one of the doyens of the textiles sector, who passed away early this morning. Shri Gupta was the Chairman of SRTEPC for two terms (1998-2001 & 2009-2010). He also held the post of the President of Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO) twice. He was also the Chairman of The Indian Silk Export Promotion Council (ISEPC).

Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta’s journey began in 1975, when he established Vijay Silk House Group in Mumbai, which gradually spread its branches to Varanasi, Bengaluru, Surat, Tirupur to promote the export of traditional Indian textiles.

His foresight for the Powerloom Sector was realised in the form of setting up of Powerloom Development Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) in 1995 under the aegis of Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, and he became the founder member of PDEXCIL.

During his tenure as Chairman of SRTEPC, Shri Gupta was instrumental in spearheading the promotional programmes of the Council in organising Trade Fairs / BSMs in non-traditional markets like Latin America, Middle East, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh etc. Realising the potential of these markets, the Govt. of India subsequently formulated the Focus Market Scheme to provide special incentives to exporters to these regions.

His contribution to the textiles industry was vast, and in appreciation of this, the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India appointed Shri Gupta Chairman of the Textiles Committee (Mar. 2001 – Aug. 2004), for providing services relating to Testing, Quality Inspection, Certification, Consultancy and Market Research.

Although an astute businessman, Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta was a humble and generous person, and was always accessible to the Staff of the Council.

The Textile Industry, particularly the MMF Textile Sector will feel his absence in the industry.

May the Almighty rest his soul in Eternal Peace.

OM SHANTI

Shraddanjali to Shri Ganesh Kumar Gupta, former Chairman, SRTEPC

26 October 2019


INTEXPO MALAYSIA – A new chapter in the Indo-Malaysian textile tradeThe Council organized INTEXPO, the biggest ever Exposition of Indian textile and clothing in the ASEAN region at MATRADE Exhibition & Convention Centre in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia during 22nd – 24th November 2011. INTEXPO was a pioneering initiative of the Ministry of Textiles, India and which was supported by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry. All the leading Industry/textile Associations/Chambers leant their support to the event through Market Access Initiative (MAI) Scheme.

INTEXPO was inaugurated jointly by the Hon'ble Union Minister of State for Textiles of India, Smt. Panabaaka Lakshmi and Dato' Sri Mustapa Bin Mohammed, Minister of International Trade & Industry, Malaysia in the presence of H. E. Mr. Vijay Gokhale, High Commissioner of India to Malaysia and other senior officials from the Government of Malaysia, heads of the Malaysian textile industry/associations/Chambers, Chairmen of various Textile Export Promotion Councils of India, senior representatives of the leading Indian companies and other dignitaries.

INTEXPO was co-located within INTRADE Malaysia, the largest trade event in Malaysia with almost 400 exhibitors and over 1000 international trade visitors. International Trade Malaysia (INTRADE) is the annual international trade and export Exhibition organized by the Malaysia Extrernal Trade Development Corporation (MATRADE).

Seventy-five leading Indian textile companies/organizations representing all segments of the Indian textile and clothing industry had put on display their latest range of products in an area of around 1200 sq. mtrs., offering a not-to-be-missed opportunity for buyers in Malaysia and its neighbouring ASEAN region the opportunity to see under one roof what India can offer, meet senior representatives of Indian companies and conclude profitable business deals over the three-day event.

A unique feature at INTEXPO was the Theme Pavilion which depicted the rich heritage of Indian textiles. The Theme Pavilion showcased live demonstration by specially selected Indian craftsmen selected from the various parts of the country.

The timing of the event in November 2011 was most appropriate as it was organized in the context of the India Malaysia Comprehensive Economic Co-operation Agreement (CECA) in July 2011 which envisaged duty free entry of most of the Indian textiles by the year 2013. This in turn helped in enhancing India's textile exports to Malaysia and in gaining better market to the ASEAN region. The Agreement was expected to throw up myriad trade opportunities for both India and Malaysia and give a boost to India's “Look East Policy”.

On the occasion of INTEXPO, three MoUs were signed with key trade organization in Malaysia. The signing was the first step towards developing Malaysia as a hub for the nation's textile trade in the ASEAN region.

INTEXPO attracted over 750 trade visitors and over Rs.7 crores business were booked on-the-spot during the three-day event. Besides business to the tune of Rs.11 crores were under negotiation. The response to INTEXPO was tremendous and the visitors were extremely satisfied with the range of products being offered. The event also received wide coverage in the print as well as electronic media in Malaysia. A Press Conference prior to the event was also organized which received extensive coverage in the Malaysian newspapers.

INTEXPO Malaysia indeed opened up a new Chapter in the Indo-Malaysian textile trade ties.Courtesy: INFO SRTEPC

October 2019 27


“Success is not final; failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts”

In this spirit Mr. R.L. Toshniwal, graduated with a masters degree in Textiles from Leeds University, UK, and after serving the Textile industry in various capacities, established Banswara Syntex Limited (BSL) in the year 1978 with 12,500 spindles to produce dyed spun blended yarn in the economically backward district of Banswara in Rajasthan. Initially BSL was in the Joint Sector with RIICO Limited (A Government of Rajasthan Undertaking). Subsequently in 1982 he purchased back equity from RIICO Ltd to take complete charge of the company.

The rapid and continuous growth of the spinning unit prompted Shri Toshniwal ji to establish looms for weaving of fabric and a state of the art process house. His sharp business acumen ensured that he completed the textile value chain by establishing garment units in

Daman thus making Banswara Syntex Limited a fully integrated textile company. Under his able stewardship he grew this small company established in 1978, into a large sized composite Mill with 1,36,000 spindles that spin synthetic blended yarn, 21,700 spindles for worsted spinning, 460 shuttle-less looms and a processing plant with a capacity of 50,00,000 meters per month. Additionally, BSL has installed capacity to manufacture 3,50,000 trousers and 70,000 jackets every month. BSL now is a truly global textile company, also producing technical textiles and automotive textiles in collaboration with Treves, an Indo-French joint venture.

Banswara Syntex Limited is a Government Recognized Export House exporting yarn, fabric and garments to more than 60 countries. Some of the most reputed textile brands in the domestic market, as well as globally count amongst its valued customers. Under his leadership the Company has been awarded 'Best Export Award' for blended fabric exports and also the 'Excellency Award' for export performance by the Government of Rajasthan. BSL is a regular feature at the Annual Export Award Functions held by the Synthetics & Rayon Textile Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) having won several awards over the years.

Banswara Syntex today employs over 10,000 workers and staff. BSL over the last 41years of its existence played its part in the upliftment of the district and its people. The company supports schools in Banswara and has built community projects in the town. From a small place on the southern tip of Rajasthan-unconnected by rail, with broken roads and predominantly Adavasi population the company has helped transform the town of Banswara to a thriving and desirable place to live and work. BSL is deeply conscience of its role as an industry leader in Textiles. The company is committed to the environment by using innovate ways to incorporate recycled fiber and recycling and re-using waste water.

Shri RL Toshniwal had not only taken his company to the pinnacle of success, but had served the industry as a constant guiding and motivating force. His legacy is now being carried forward in the capable hands of his children who have the same spirit to keep continuing and also take the founder Chairman's personal commitment to the Textile industry and Country forwards.

Courtesy: INFO SRTEPC

28 October 2019


Dr. Gautam G. Yadav, an Indian-born scientist, has invented a new high voltage, highly energy denserechargeable manganese dioxide (MnO2)|zinc (Zn) battery. These new batteries exhibit high voltages between 2.45-2.8V delivering high capacities close to its theoretical value, which is a first for aqueous-based batteries. Till now there is no aqueous Zn-based battery that has crossed the 2V barrier. The energy density stored by this new high-voltage aqueous battery can be much higher compared to the currently dominant lithium (Li)-ion battery. Li-ion batteries have dominated the energy storage landscape for over three decades because of its high voltage characteristics. Organic electrolytes which are an important feature of Li-ion batteries allowed for the creation of high-voltages, however, they are also the primary reason for its dangerous flammable and explosive properties. High voltages in Li-ion batteries have allowed it to capture the electric vehicle market, the mobile electronics and gridstorage market. Li-ion batteries also contain elements which are geopolitically sensitive and not common to India, so development of energy storage technologies has taken a backseat, while countries like China have benefited tremendously. For renewable energy to grow in India and curb its pollution problems, development of energy storage batteries is extremely vital.

The new high-voltage MnO2|Zn batteries contain raw materials that are native to India. India has rich sources of manganese, which can be used to make MnO2. The aqueous nature of the battery reduce the manufacturing costs considerably which are known to be high for Li-ion batteries due to the flammable nature of its electrolyte. These new highly energy dense MnO2|Zn batteries can now compete or even replace Li-ion batteries in applications like electric cars and mobile electronics, which can put India in the forefront of the energy storage development and propel incorporation of more renewable sources of energy for power generation.

This breakthrough work is published in the highly acclaimed ACS Energy Letters. The work was conducted at the City College of New York and was funded by Sandia National Labs and the U.S. Department of Energy.

Cite these figures to: (G. Yadav, E. Turney, Huang, Wei, & Banerjee, 2019) G. Yadav, G., E. Turney, D., Huang, J., Wei, X., & Banerjee, S. (2019). Breaking the 2V barrier in Aqueous Zinc Chemistry: Creating 2.45V

and 2.8V MnO2-Zn aqueous batteries. ACS Energy Letters, https://doi.org/ 10.1021/acsenergylett.9b01643

Link to published work: https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsenergylett.9b01643

Acknowledgement: This work was supported by the U.S. Department of Energy, Office of Electricity, Energy Storage program through a contract from Sandia National Manager of the DOE Energy Storage program for funding this work. Sandia National Laboratories is a multi-mission laboratory managed and operated by National

Technology and Engineering Solutions of Sandia, LLC., a wholly owned subsidiary of Honeywell International, Inc., for the U.S. Department of Energy National Nuclear Security Administration under contract DE-NA-0003525.

Inventor’s Information: Dr. Gautam G. Yadav was born and brought up in Mumbai. He earned his degree in Chemical Engineering at Purdue University. He is now the leading research scientist at the City College of New York developing the next generation of energy dense aqueous-based batteries to compete with Li-ion. He is a prolific inventor and has published in world renowned journals like Nature Communications, ACS Energy Letters and Journal of Materials Chemistry A.

INDIAN-BORN SCIENTIST CREATES NEW WATERBASED ZINC BATTERY TO COMPETE WITH FLAMMABLE LITHIUM BATTERIES

October 2019 29


“Success is not final, failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts” - Sir Winston Churchill. Mr. Suresh Narayanan, Chairman & Manging Director, Nestle India Ltd spoke on “Leadership in Crisis” Journey of the brand Maggi from Nestle and rising like a phoenix it went from hero to zero and back again with attitude that winners never quit. In life you can have second chance provided you play the rules of the game with clarity, simplicity, humility, dignity with respect and as a trust when you put your organisation’s spirit behind it this is what can happen, and it did happen. Continuing leadership lecture series, Sri Shanmukhananda Fine Arts & Sangeetha Sabha organised the lecture on 23rd July 2019 at Smt.Padma Ranga Chamber Music Hall.

Every man seeks out his fortune in life with focus. Henri Nestlé was one such Swiss manufacturer who

built a brand with the help of a logo, which means nest in German. Food quality and

safety are at the centre besides care and nourishment the hallmark of technology. The company has bases in 200 countries with 400 factories and 320,000 people. Everything including raw material is tested in Switzerland, Germany, France and all other locations to ensure same quality of pack and the processes are global. Commercials were showcased to this effect.

Some people spent their whole careers in this company. They have 10, 15, 25, 35 year awards and 40 years

award contemplated for some. It has a culture when decency with respect and dignity come despite they are not best pay masters. They have honest, sincere, dedicated and passionate people who love working in this organisation with a sense of pride.

Dr. V. Rangaraj welcomed the audience and introduced

Mr. Suresh Narayanan with Master’s degree in economics, Forbes India Leadership Award and stint

of 38 years’ experience in FMCG industry and global companies like Hindusthan Unilever and Colgate Palmolive. Mr. Narayanan shared his organisation experience beginning with baby food Cerelac in 1966, Milkmaid, Nescafe and Maggi (instant noodle), one of the largest food (culinary) brand. The capability to come out of adversity is important and a lesson of a corporate brand is the same that happened to them in their life.

An allegation is done by an inspector in Barabanki in U.P who said that it contained Monosodium Glutamate while the pack had the message no added

MSG. It comes through spices and onions. He would not invoke the company but sent it for analysis to Calcutta via Shimla for test that took 4 months and the result said this product contained 17 times lead. It was not only catastrophic but also sensational. Under food laws, you are expected to invoke the food operator with regard to quality of product. We are in the age of Facebook, Twitter and social media platform is hungry for news, bad news and sad news.

Nelson Mandela said, “It is not important that you fall, you have to be able to get up and dust yourself off and always be going forward” And this is a story of a brand of Food Specialities Ltd in 1983, a point of inflexion when history was made. Consumer insight and the product formed are different, and that is the time when the mothers’ primary concern is to get nutrition that is quick, convenient and customisable into children when they are back from school and go out to play. The first 15 years it made a loss as the food habits

took time to change and accept that the product is good and like the taste. There is nothing else that can complement our life any better than what you are eating. The brand grew

Mr. Suresh Narayanan, Nestle India Ltd on Leadership in CrisisBy Dr.K.S.Murthy, Pidilite Industries Ltd

30 October 2019


as 2nd largest FMCG, stature, powerful, expanded and became trusted food. The value chain of Rs.10 for the noodles and the restaurants charged Rs.400. It started food revolution in the country with ordinary people standing outside colleges, cinema theatres, railway and bus stations and made decent living by making and selling.

Further, he described what happened in media: Maggi is prepared in 2 minutes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fiction and sensationalism overtake any semblance of facts resulting in mockery and vicious attack that was never anticipated. Secondly, crisis never comes with a calling card. When this happens,

it completely sends shock waves in an organisation that is proud of its attitude and 30 years popularity of Maggi. The trust of 98% is shattered and comes down to 3%. A brand that was selling 15,000 tons per month is down to zero. 400,000 wheat farmers were tied to this brand. 15,000 suppliers, 2200 distributors, 4.5 million retailers besides 7,200 workers and almost 20,000 other allied people were associated with the organisation. Many thousand people were making and selling Maggi. If this is not catastrophe what is it? Is this a rarity? No. Can this happen to any of your organisations, yes. How do you prepare for it? Will it come with a calling card? You won’t know.

Business contingency plan: Where is it when everything goes out in flames? In as much as all of us revel in social media, we need sometimes to reflect on the kind of damage that it can do. This is one of the examples where between the social media and regular media, it is completely brought down. Global CEO visited at this juncture and took the decision that what they do here is only with a consumer in mind and it was not right environment to have the products on the shelves. Then they started reverse logistics operation in the history of this country. Every single Maggi packet was removed from 4.5 million though some outlets of sales were reluctant to give them back. Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) banned it. The most painful part of organisation is not to redefine the process but to undo a process. He emphasised that an organisation reaps the benefit of what it does when they do good in all that they stand for even in bad times. The distributors, employees, transporters

and various others took back every single pack.

Mr. Narayanan headed Nestle in Singapore, Cairo (North Africa), Libya (Nescafe), Sudan and Philippines for consumer products. He advocated embracing adversity because crisis and adversity is biggest opportunity. They grew every year by 25% and became one of the fastest growing markets in the world.

They love the company and are grateful because it provided their children education and paid medical bills of parents, weddings in the family. When Maggi episode started to burn in India, global CEO called him back to take care of the situation. It was a badge of honour and they trusted him and immensely proud of his team to work with. It is important that you build the cultural bearings of your organisation, values and respect. They distributed even at 2 am with love for their company regardless of curfew. People underestimate, under leverage and under pitch thinking that it is only top and middle management who runs the company but it is also the humble tea boy who makes the company work.

Sometimes in organisations, they give leadership to growing young, when your ambition is inbuilt. You end up doing things better when you stop worrying about yourself. He believed in having element of spirituality in the way you look at your task. Speak the truth and your heart in the interview of the whole crisis. The options were to run the business or address the issues that will hopefully get them out of the mess they were in. Engage with regulators and key people in the media and government. One would learn more in a crisis than in the rest of life. In adversity and difficulty, the kind of learning you get is far more than when things are going well. Humility, simplicity, clarity, respect and dignity are important. Harvard Business School came out with an article that said after IQ, EQ there is DQ (dignity quotient). How do you use dignity, decency as an integral part of your leadership style? Organisation had input characteristic of DQ. There are 130,000 farmers in Moga (Haryana) who had been with them for 60 years. Similarly coffee farmers in Coorg.

Maggi ban: Maggi episode did not leave a positive taste; a minister made a statement at the height of crisis. They took the matter to Mumbai High Court. The judges were experts in Food Law who tried this matter for the 3 months without adjournment that would have shut the company. They delivered a judgement, which

October 2019 31


they called traverse justice that you cannot do this to a company and give them due respect, time and effort and energy in order to test and prove their products in an accredited laboratory before deciding to take action. Lakhs of consumers came to them on social media and said that they missed Maggi and it has been a part of their lives. Long before personalisation became marketing strategy, this brand was most personalised. They want to eat, and every single consumer would have Maggi their own way. Ultimate Maggi example from NDA army officers that they have burnt Maggi by hot iron and the 40 soldiers took burnt Maggi at -40oC at Siachen.

Dilemma of marketing: when consumer says I miss you, they miss them too. Come back. No product on the shelf, nothing to offer, before judgement, they don’t even know whether they are going to be there or not. Brands have a passion and the day you evoke that passion is the day you evoke memories of what people have been through. They connect and go back to do what they could. As a team they need to have an icon to follow viz. icon of Bombay Taj Mahal Hotel terror attack. They took Taj as an example, the same dignity, mindset, transparency, care, concern, respect which is the hallmark of this group (Tata) and that dignity they wanted to emulate. Heritage is culture, building a culture, set of values has become more important. They appealed to the young generation that in times of stress, maintain dignity because it is most important spirit that differentiate you from an angry young person because they are not going to help you in a difficult situation.

Put products into test in accredited laboratory identified by the court. At that time, they literally had heart in their mouth because if even one sample fails, you are finished. They said that they will have the principle of transparency, every single result they put on site for the consumer to see because they need to be sure of what they are getting. Firstly, this hit the raw nerve in the mind of every mother. Have I done a mistake giving my child Maggi? They said they would talk about it candidly. In crisis, one tends to become defensive and avoid the issue. Do not avoid the issue, you have to face it head on and with transparency, humility and dignity and that adversity can be negated or at least managed in a short term as things are happening, 5 out of their 8 factories were shut and no retrenchment of workers who were put on training programs.

Culture comes to your rescue when a crisis hits you. Not one employee went on strike, media to complain, distributors business (25%) vanished, suppliers lost money and remained, and the foundation started to wobble. Yet not one of the entities involved in the organisation, said or did anything undignified or that harmed the company. In this age of rhetoric where respect has been thrown to the winds, there are people who believed in working with respect and embraced the dignity of work and proudly the organisation stood for it. Share price then of Rs.5000 and today fetching Rs.11500, it is the value that they invested with the company and characteristically strong. Everybody had a single message and wish to bring back Maggi.

The opportunity we have and lose when we don’t give purpose to our people. When a man or woman has a purpose and set of values that are defined and respected, nothing happens. They do not see this and spend enough time in our organisations on the software aspects of what is making it work. The most we remember are our teachers who give foundation and it is same with organisations. When you give people purpose, respect and mission they make things happen. He had hoped that on 9th November 2015, they should give Maggi back to the consumers in less than 2½ months. Farmers came forth to support. People were on the spot to ensure that the materials were being made and given by factories that were shut for 6 months.

Workers started the machines within hours; packaging materials (42 days) came in 9 days, raw materials (21 days) in 5 days, point of sale materials (60 days) 20 days and system (21 days) in 5 days. Campaign (45 days) produced films in 20 days because they said Maggi is such an iconic brand and come back is their stock. Weddings were postponed, PTAs not attended, family functions were deferred, people slept in factories and offices and made things happen. They were able to do things with fervour that they have never seen. Simplest people in an organisation are capable of exceptional performance and it is our ego that is stopping. It is important that this becomes muscle memory. This was an opportunity to redefine their standards to be following and doing. Practice, linkage, empowerment and engagement are not at the level that should be. Leadership change makes all the difference. First piece of communication will be to those who have made their brand what it is. Next was

32 October 2019


tribute to mother. What are the passions of this brand that old memories evoke? 2 minutes became a catchy phrase for anything that happens in an instant. Lasting memories of Maggi are for those who stay in hostels.

At Nestle they have 2000 brands and less than 20 brands in India. Generations will continue to be launching brands. Track record on innovation has not been as good as it should be. They are innovating today at 3 times at pace that they have ever done with a renewed spirit of ensuring that they will not allow themselves the opportunity to be ever left behind in the game. In the last 3 years they have 50 new products.

• Exude positive spirit: With experiences as captain in a crisis, he shared them and called it ringing of confidence and organisation. In any difficult moment, leader needs to exude positive. They do not have the answers and can give hope which is biggest saviour for most people. Embrace the opportunity and if you don’t you are going to be left by the wayside. When you come out of crisis whether personal or corporate, you come stronger.

• Engagement: If you are leaders and aspire to be leaders, learn to engage. It is single act of connection between you and the recipient in a simple conversation or message to ensure they know that you care and is involved in whatever that needs to be involved. You have responsibility for your life but by disengagement, you do not have the responsibility and ruin the life of others. Therefore, engagement of the leader is important.

• Communication: We seldom want to communicate in difficult situations. Better be quiet. Typically, leader manager will come with a set of do’s and don’ts. As a leader you must communicate. His concern was a humble salesman going out and talking to the retailer. Have your thoughts clearly, coherently and put across but do this often. Communicate, not less but more. Communication is an important virtue for anybody who is leading any organisation, just being a person who is simple, clear, sincere, transparent and trustworthy in what he says. Trust is important in leadership. People want you for trust and back you on trust.

• Credibility: In leadership, credibility is most important. Start focussing on asking right questions. Do my thoughts, actions, behaviour, tenure invoke credibility? Seldom seen young people not focussing on building

credibility.

• Facing reality: This is the biggest problem that a leader faces. Reality is what you see. They come to a meeting and do nothing. Second set of people say not possible and some of them are good to have in a crisis and when the leader is optimistic, they will try to work out ways to overcome this and say they can find solutions. Third kind is worst and in majority. When the crisis happens, they are the first people to leave and worst enemies that you can have.

• Unite: Find out division tree, why is it happening and get down to the root cause analysis. When you are in trouble, come together, find out the ways of who did what and when and work together. Unity of purpose is important for the leader to keep the ego that is the biggest destroyer and stops from uni ting. The problem is we don’t like to see in ourselves, introspect and what is it that you are achieving and leaving behind? Teamwork will achieve credibility. Share the credit and give credit. If you guide in the right way, you become even a greater leader.

• Always strive for ‘can do’ than ‘will try’. In difficult situations, you need people with the kind of spirit ‘will try’. You need to cultivate ‘can do’ people in your organisation and develop such spirit. ‘Will try’ people are obvious and intelligent, articulate and will come out, tell and give you clever ideas.

• People are the centre of everything you do. The task of leadership is to get ordinary people to do extraordinary things. That is the hallmark of what we should be achieving and doing in life. If you take care of the people, the rest takes care of itself. His role model was his grandmother with fierce determination and power of relationships. Have role model whom you can look up to. In height, you look down to but in stature you look up. This gives you the sense of balance and perspective in life.

• Never lose your winning spirit for the day you lose it is the day everybody around you also start losing that winning spirit because you influence everybody.

• Keep your eyes on reality. If you have healthy ego, it takes care of reality. You are here to do and give all in the life. With that philosophy, you are much better off as a leader.

• Keep to your values. Values are nurtured by us. Choose your jobs and those companies that are most

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akin to your values. Be humble, humility is not a virtue and what keeps us together as human beings and makes us to look up to another person and even talk to him is humility. When you speak, you repeat what you know and when you hear, you hear new things (Dalai Lama). Humility debars capability to hear and less to speak. Listen, stay connected and above all be human.

Great leaders and successful people combine successful results with humanity. Chairman of Honeywell once said, “You will never be remembered for the profits you made but growth you delivered.” You will never be forgotten for how you made the other person feel and that should be at the centre of what we are achieving as leaders.

Mr. Narayanan fielded questions with viable answers, clarified doubts, cleared misconceptions and offered advice. Proposing vote of thanks, Dr. V. Rangaraj thanked the speaker and the audience who came in time, stayed till the end to hear the experience of the speaker showing respect to him.

• During the crisis, was there a moment that the stress was so high for you and your team? How did you navigate through that situation? There were many days when things were very uncertain. We navigated holding each other’s hands. The most important task of leadership is to manage yourself, emotions, reactions, equations for what could go wrong and right.

• Contingency plan for the management based on your experience and how did you prepare the same?

Areas identified as weaknesses primarily in sensing, transmission and quick response mechanisms addressed post the crisis.

• What is the future of brands? Is it building a brand or product?

None of them. Brands have morphed into experiences like Nescafe, KitKat and Maggi which is a combination of product presentation, attitude and spirit and sheer ambience how the brand is presented. The days of product managers and brand managers are fast evolving into experience managers.

• You had the crisis, faced and overcome it, but did you

try to understand the source of problem?

In the polluted atmosphere, you know where it is coming from. It is one of those classic things and there have been different theories of which one is that a serious regulator has done this. It is important to prepare the organisation to face the situation.

• You presented what you learnt to manage crisis and gave examples to face reality and how do you relate?

Firstly, find where you are. There is combination of facts, trends, intuition, own judgement which sometimes get clouded by people around you who either paint it far rosier than it is or much grimmer than it should be. Often you take decisions in the corporate world by either inaccurate or inadequate facts or by overriding perceptions that have been given to them. Whatever matrix used, there is no formula for it and in order to come to an assessment of what is the reality in a particular situation should be yours. You may take inputs from people. In an organisation, the senior you become you need to have a couple of people who are like your brothers and can talk to them anything and vice versa. Many times, the leadership road becomes lonely, nobody tells you anything wrong and everybody flatters you.

• Campaign for 2 minutes education for girl child. Are there any other CSR programs in your agenda?

They not only do 2 minutes of education for children but also put up sanitation facilities across the country to help them. They go to C&D grade schools because A&B has got enough resources to take care of. Programs of nutrition conducted for adolescent girls and young men in 18 states. Trying to discourag e child marriage and from having children at a very young age. All this is part of a program to try an d get people lead healthier and happier lifestyle. They have a nutrition education program called Nestle Healthy Kids with children in nutrition area. 66,000 women farmers out of 120,000 milk farmers in Punjab have made a huge difference in the society. Their philosophy is intent of the heart and impact of the crop. He is happy if they can influence 500 people positively. They have adopted a village with 1200 people in India’s backward district of Haryana that has drinking water, sewage and drinking water are mixing and the lake is polluted.

34 October 2019


Sustainable Emulsion Polymers for CoatingsBy Dr.K.S.Murthy, Pidilite Industries Ltd.

“Sustainability is living on nature’s income rather than living on its capital” Murray Gell-Mann. The Colour Society featured Mr. Sandeep Magdum, Senior Manager of Pidilite Industries Ltd (R&D-Polymer Synthesis) with 25 years’ experience on “Sustainable Emulsion Polymers for Coatings” in their Annual Seminar on 19th July 2019 at Hotel Kohinoor Continental. Dr. D.D. Kale, formerly Professor of polymer technology, ICT chaired the session. Sandeep Magdum spoke on series of products such as emulsion polymers for Waterborne coatings, Metal coatings, Wood coatings, Construction chemicals, future

trends, developments in paints and factors connected with sustainability like planting trees in manufacturing units; rain harvesting etc.

Sustainable Development: Living within environmental limits, achieving sustainable economy, promoting good governance, responsible use of science and ensuring healthy society, sustainable consumption and production patterns, green products and technologies, ecological footprints of products through lifecycle and waste and recycling. Raw materials by extraction from crude oil for making coatings and paint and their use in building and electronics for aesthetic appearance and maintenance; disposal or recycle and reuse at the end of life.

Waterborne Coatings: During 2001-2014, growth of 60% in US market while solvent-borne coatings were stagnant. Water-borne, powder and radiation or UV cured coatings would grow in 2014-2025. Global consumption is in building & construction (35%); automotive (28%), electronics (14%), paper & packaging (11%), marine (9%) and others (3%). It is expected to be $100 million by 2024 and the shift is attributed to eco-friendly products containing low Volatile Organic Contents and Hazardous Air Pollutants.

Emulsion polymers: Global demand is 2.5 million metric tons valued at $37 billion in 2020. China accounts for 25% growth in high quality

coatings, paper and adhesives. Acrylic-based emulsions for durable and wide range of applications driven by usage in resin, paints and coatings. Styrene acrylics give wide latitude of 240o.

Structured Emulsion Polymers: Facilitate formulator who can add low wick in paint manufacture and low amount or dispense with coalescing agent. Low Tg for film formation and high Tg core for toughness e.g. paints and coatings and pressure sensitive adhesives. High Tg shell and low Tg core are used in impact modifiers. Surface functionalised polymer emulsions where economic monomers are in core and speciality monomers on the surface without sacrificing cost aspect.

Core-shell formation: Synthesis is complex and one has to take care of factors like type of surfactant and concentration; Initiator and concentration; Reaction temperature; Monomer addition to facilitate reaction under monomer starved conditions so that secondary nucleation does not occur; Sufficiently high seed particle number; Hydrophobicity of the core in comparison with water solubility of second monomer – if glass transition temperatures of core and shell are far apart, phase separated equilibrium stable structure can be obtained; Incompatibility of core and shell polymers favour core-shell formation. If they have different Tg, it is easier to recognise through depth images. Transmission Electron Microscopy images of coreshell polymers shown.

October 2019 35


CLP regulation and CMR chemicals: Product quality isimproved through elimination of CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic and Reprotoxic) chemicals (Category 1 and Category 2 listed) as per EU Regulation onClassification of Labelling and Packaging. Organisation takes responsibility to make products so that free residual contents are minimum or use CMR free chemicals.

I. Emulsions for Paints: Pidicryl 226S (free from methanol); Pidivyl VV55 (excellent colour development and hiding property); Pidicryl726NG, free from APEO, Formaldehyde, Phthalatesand CMR chemicals. Medium viscosity of 65-75 poise, gives external colour development and wet scrub resistance. Potential for interior paints as well as economy exterior paints. Freeze thaw stability test (ASTM D2243) – passes 5 cycles. Wet scrub resistance (ASTM D2486) of Pidivyl VV55 against competition after 300 cycles was illustrated. Styrene-Acrylate emulsion Pidicryl 726NG with lower solid contents (42%) gives superior water and wet scrub resistance and equivalent to other competition products with 45 or 50% and comparison of 600 scrubs as per ASTM D2486 was shown.

Low VOC paints: Ozone is formed by reaction of VOCs with nitrogen oxides and carbon monoxide in the presence of sunlight (UV radiation <320nm). Pidicryl LV 935 (fine particle size core-shell emulsion, low free monomer, minimum film forming temperature [MFFT] of 2oC are free from APEO, Formaldehyde and Ammonia) developed for low VOC and low odour interior and exterior paints. They reduce toxins that cause allergy and chemical sensitivity, contaminant concentration in ground water and smog forming chemicals giving better air quality with performance equal to conventional paints.

Elastomeric Binder: Pidicryl 838 (Acrylic emulsion) has excellent flexibility, good elongation, recovery, resistance to dirt pick up and superior durability. For exterior, roof and solar reflective coatings with less energy consumption and decreased CO2 emissions. Temperature gradient between the substrate and painted metal panel (heated using IR lamp) can be recorded by data logger using thermocouple and IR lamp. Simulation testing (roof coating) demonstrated 10-12% energy reduction besides water resistance, no dirt picks up besides aesthetic appearance.

II. Metal Coatings: There is a shift from solvent based resins to water based. Pidicryl MS 1010 (Acrylate styrene emulsion) with excellent adhesion to galvanised steel and aluminium

has been developed. Used as binder for primer with subsequent application of water-borne or solvent-borne as topcoat. Comparison as primer illustrated good performance even after 250 hours of salt spray resistance, tested by National Test House. Pidicryl MS 63 used for thin organic on galvanised steel and chromate coating (chromate formulation). Metal coating (top and bottom) is applied at both ends and passed through curing chamber. Excellent property of nail hardness and anti-fingerprint.

III. Emulsion Polymers for Construction: Pidicryl S 7457 having -6oC Tg; 2k cementitious coating for waterproofing. It has good crack bridging ability, cement compatibility and pot life. Application areas are bathroom, balcony, kitchen sink, water tank, swimming pool, terrace and horizontal surface. Applicat ion entails mixing with cement, 2 coats after primer to total thickness of 1-2 mm, drying time of 4 hours and pot life of 1 hour. Also used for 2K flexible tile adhesives for fixing tiles; incorporation of Pidicryl S 7457 in bitumen emulsion imparts flexibility, reduces age cracking and limits bleeding of bitumen. In general, 10-15% by weight is used for modification.

Acrylic Sealants: Pidicryl 7500 (65% solid content, -23oC Tg) for acrylic sealants, cementitious composition

36 October 2019


used for gap fillers. Good low temperature flexibility. Pidicryl 7700 is yet another 2-stage emulsion for floor coating. It has good abrasion resistance, hot tire mark resistance, tensile strength and solvent resistance. Tg is 45oC. Floor coating paint cured for 7 days at room temperature and exposed to chemical resistance (dipping testin toluene and 25% sulphuric acid) for 24 hours. No delamination and blistering and passes hot tire resistance. Taber abrasion test as per ASTM D4060 resulted in minimum weight (40 mg) loss.

IV. Wood Coating: Pidicryl WC 66 has highly internally cross-linked moiety, it can be formulated into waterborne wood coatingand applied on wood and furniture. It is fast drying, excellent hardness and passes hot water exposure resistance test (70oC for 2 hours). Tested for several stains (household), solvent and ammonia. Clear coat wood panels like matt (teak and beach) and glossy (beach, teak and rubber).

Sustainability initiatives: Use of high volume and low speed fans in manufacturing units and skylights; Solar and wind energy; Water harvesting and ground waterrecharge; Plantation drives within areas of plant and local; ETP and reuse of treated water and zero discharge; Training programs on

safety and mock drills.

Rural development: Farmland (512 hectares) covered under drip irrigation; well water recharging to improve quality of ground water. Plastic waste collection centres for recycling.

Summary: People and planet to get prosperity. Responsibility towards stakeholders, customers, employees and suppliers – Audit them with need for environmentally friendly products, remove CMR chemicals. Planet – Effect of withdrawing raw materials from scarce resources from the planet; Responsible coatings form a major contributing factor for wellbeing of society.

Way Forward: Use of CMR free binders in paints and coatings, Bio-based raw materials as alternative to raw materials from scarce sources; Coatings with higher life expectancy; Coatings with solar reflectivity e.g. Dr. Fixit Raincoat Cool, Solar Reflectance as per ASTM E1980; Low VOC, Low odour paints; Coatings contributing to removal of air pollutants and bacteria; Self-heating coatings; Coatings with stain resistance and Aerosol paint and Anti-mosquito paints (Kansai-Plascon) and AdaptaColor-powder coat containing natural herbicide (insect repellent).

Mr. Magdum answered questions on floor coating performance of Acrylics vs. Epoxy, which is not comparable but cost wise lower; Recoating of wood coatings for flooring is 3 years and Effect of paint from Kansai Plascon (currently available in African region) for mosquitos is 2 years.

October 2019 37


PRO ECUADOR, a part of the Ministry of Production, Foreign Trade, Investment and Fisheries, under the Government of Ecuador, collaborated with Lakme Fashion Week for the promotion of Corozo – Vegan Ivory, that is used for but-tons, jewellery and art, on 22nd August 2019 at St. Regis Hotel, Mumbai. The showcase was in col-laboration with sustainable fashion label KaSha, who presented a col-lection of garments and accesso-ries made using Corozo in the form of buttons and embellishments, as part of the Sustainable Fashion Day (SFD), the second day of LFW.

Even as sustainable living and fashion finds more acceptance among Indian consumers, es-pecially the upwardly mobile, a growing number of Indian design-ers are debunking the myth that sustainable fashion is unglamor-ous and churning out chic ‘green fashion’ lines. The introduction of the Sustainable Fashion Day at the Lakme Fashion Week, 2019, is a testimony to the growing popular-ity of ‘green-fashion’. Collaborating with the designer label KaSha, who showcased collection made using hand-spun Khadi, handloom cotton and silks made by artisans in Ker-ala, Bihar and Madhya Pradesh, PRO Ecuador promoted the organ-ic Corozo, which was extensively used in the designs, in the form of buttons, jewellery and embellish-

ments.

While Corozo, a native of the Amazon rainforest in Ecuador, has been harvested naturally and used as a popular material for but-tons and embellishments since the 1860’s, it was extensively re-placed with plastic in the 1940’s. However,as an increasing number of consumers warm up to the idea of ecologically responsible lifestyles, sustainable fashion is increasingly finding mainstream acceptance. As a result, designers are now seek-ing out eco-friendly fabrics and ma-terials that can be processed using traditional and organic methods. From adopting zero-waste policies, to reviving ancient hand-weaving

and embroidery techniques (con-sidered more environment-friend-ly), and rolling out separate labels etc., both Indian and International fashion brands are increasingly adopting sustainable means to in-novate and stay relevant in the dy-namic fashion industry.

Speaking about the associa-tion with KaSha and the show-case at the Sustainability Fash-ion Day at LFW, Ms. Cristina Chiriboga, the Acting Trade Com-missioner of Ecuador in Mumbai, said, “We are very pleased with the warmth and acceptance that the Indian fashion fraternity has shown towards Corozo in the re-cent years. We are delighted at

PRO ECUADOR is part of the Vice Ministry of Export and Investment Promotion, responsible for executing the country's export and investment promotion policies and regulations to promote Ecuador's products and markets offer for strategic insertion in international trade. It has an extensive network of offices, 7 national offices responsible for seeing the needs of the territory and maintaining constant contact with national producers and exporters, and 31 international offices, focused on research, negotiation and opening of markets that benefit Ecuador.

PRO Ecuador associates with Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) to showcase its Vegan Ivory – Corozo, on Sustainable Fashion Day (SFD)

COROZO NUT LAKME FAShION WEEK, 2019

38 October 2019


the response we received at the Sustainable Fashion Day at the Lakme Fashion Week, as part of our collaboration with KaSha. The Indian fashion labels and the consumers are increasingly aware and accepting of the sus-tainable trends and offers great potential in the coming years. We look forward to associating with many more designers, and become a part of this growth in India.”

The corozo comes from a nut that grows wild in the tropical for-ests of Ecuador. The fruit is col-lected by the local communities that live in the forests, and thus constitutes as an alternative in-come source and an incentive for these people to take care of the forest. It’s purely vegetable origin makes it a vegan product. Further, the process requires no irrigation water, fertilizers, or chemicals, making it completely organic and natural. Each blank is handmade, one by one, by artisans, offering it a unique handcrafted flavour. To have a Corozo button on a gar-ment is to have a piece of art from the tropical forest!

Speaking on the matter, Mr. Vikram Choksi, Special Chief Guest of the Commercial Office of Ecuador in India, said, “As per the United Nations Environment Estimates Worldwide report, the global fashion industry produces 20 percent global water wastage and 10 percent of global carbon emissions – more than all in-ternational flights and maritime shipping. Apart from returning to natural dyes, organic fabrics and traditional modes of manu-facturing, the use of Corozo and other eco-friendly products for accessorising and embellish-ments will go a long way in mak-ing fashion truly green and sus-

tainable. As the only exporter of Corozo in the world, Eucador has been effectively providing and promoting the use of Coro-zo to world designers, helping change the narrative and design of global fashion. In the com-ing years, the company hopes to replace the harmful plastics

and synthetic material with this organic product, making fashion fun, beautiful and sustainable.”

For more details on Corozo, watch: https://vimeo.com/243042939For more details, log on to: https://www.proecuador.gob.ec

BUTTONS MODEL LAKME FAShION WEEK, 2019

October 2019 39


Major advances with USTER®TESTER 6: two new features – and total mill optimization through the Quality Management Platform

Customer feedback drives innovations for twist testing and conductive yarns USTER is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies provides high-technology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services.USTER provides the globally-acknowledged USTER®STATISTICS benchmarks for trading, textile know-how training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). www.uster.com

New feature of uster®tester 6 - twist testing and conductive yarns

Uster is the acknowledged global standard in testing, at the heart of the laboratory in every quality-conscious textile mill. And USTER® TESTER 6 – the latest edition of the legendary Uster Technologies instrument – still keeps on improving, with innovative solutions to keep pace with latest industry trends.

Two examples illustrate this progress: the facility for measuring conductive yarn through the Frequent Occurrences (FO) feature of USTER® TESTER 6. And the high-speed assessment of twist and twist variation as part of a single yarn testing routine.

USTER® TESTER 6 hosts USTER® QUALITY EXPERT, the ultimate digital solution for integrated data-based improvements throughout the spinning mill, connecting and interpreting information from a range of different instruments in the unique Quality Management Platform. For the first time, spinners have access to all the possibilities for total mill optimization.

Sivakumar Narayanan, Executive Vice President Marketing & Business Development says: “We are committed to innovating products, solutions and services which strengthen business sustainability for customers. The new features demonstrate this well. Working with USTER gives customers the peace of

mind that can only come from strong partnerships, as well as adding extra impetus to our technological development efforts.”

“USTER® TESTER 6 was launched in 2015 and has already been sold in 37 countries. As part of USTER’s continuous improvement strategy, we have collected personal feedback from every USTER® TESTER 6 customer around the world. This, combined with field reports from our service engineers, led to the latest developments of USTER® TESTER 6.”

40 October 2019


Frequent Occurrences: Quality evaluation for conductive yarns

Conductive yarns have become more important in the past decade in fast-growing markets such as protective wear, fitness clothing, and healthcare.

Manufacturers of protective clothing in particular need to deal with public institutions and tenders. In this competitive environment, the supplier’s reputation is crucial – and it depends largely on consistent quality to avoid costly claims.

Until now, it has not been possible to measure the quality of conductive yarns – a real issue for spinners in this field. USTER stepped up efforts to include measurement of conductive yarn in USTER® TESTER 6. Sensor OM is now used to measure Frequent Occurrences (FO) in these yarns. It analyses neps, thin and thick places, yarn evenness, diameter, density and shape – all vital quality parameters for conductive yarns.

Twist and twist variation – in a single test routine

The manual and often subjective measurement of twist has been regarded by spinners as a task to be avoided if possible. But the twist level in a yarn is a critical quality parameter that affects both the look and performance of the finished product, as well as the productivity level, so spinners would benefit from integrating twist in their normal testing routine.

Now, this important parameter can be measured as a simple by-product of yarn testing for 100% cotton ring and compact yarn – giving producers information about all relevant parameters as part of one laboratory procedure. USTER® TESTER 6 is the only yarn testing instrument on the market with the option to obtain Twist and Twist variation (Tu) data during yarn testing, at a speed of 800 m/min. This information enables spinning mills to react quickly to identify performance gaps such as low-speed spindles.

Developed by experts in the technology department of USTER, these innovations extend the capabilities of USTER® TESTER 6 still further.

Correlation with USTER® stAtIstICsMeasurement data from USTER® TESTER 6

correlates perfectly with USTER® STATISTICS global benchmarks, essential for every yarn producer or trader. Available in an app for iOS, Android and Windows 10 since October 2018 – it is already one of the most successful apps in textiles.

Now the new app version 1.4 is in app stores – with an enlarged database of the most popular yarn styles, 100% cotton, compact yarns for knitting applications, extended FAQs and enhanced readability.

uster®stAtIstICs - now including compact yarns for knitting application

October 2019 41


Trusted information is crucial when decisions have to be made and solutions found. In the spin-ning mill, production efficiency and business profitability de-pend on reliable data measure-ment and sophisticated analysis. Translating that into practical advice makes life easier for ev-ery level of management. That’s why USTER®QuALItY eXPert has become indispensable at Matesa Textiles in Turkey.With eight yarn factories compris-ing 120,000 spindles and 10,000 rotors, it’s clear that a spinning

company on this scale needs quality data to be handled auto-matically. Laboratory results and in-line data from winding must be centralized and then analyzed. “USTER®QUALITY EXPERT has become an essential helper to us,” says Buket Çelebi, Head of Yarn Facilities at Matesa.

Transparency and trendsIt’s a high-pressure job, working for one of the biggest textile brands in Turkey. Achieving an output of 140 tons of yarn per day, performance optimization and cost reduction are permanent challenges to man-

age. “I trust practical analysis and interpretation of combined data as offered by USTER®QUALITY EX-PERT. It goes beyond mere data collection and supports me towards targeted improvements in each as-pect of yarn production, throughout the mill,” says Çelebi.

“I’m convinced connecting to USTER®QUALITY EXPERT is the route to effective decision-making and preventive process optimiza-tion in textile mills.”Her opinion is supported by the list of USTER® lab-oratory and in-line systems linked to the USTER®QUALITY EXPERT. Connecting all spinning processes makes everything transparent and comparable. “We take advantage of the full-scale mill analysis, which can identify quality and productiv-ity trends, working proactively to prevent faults and foster improve-ments,” says Çelebi.

USTER®QuALItY eXPert: impressive throughout the millAt Matesa, both shop floor and top floor benefit from comprehensive analysis

Portait Buket Çelebi, Head of Yarn Facilities at Matesa textile

42 October 2019


Alerts and advice

USTER®QUALITY EXPERT pro-vides process security by empow-ering quality managers to intervene quickly to remedy any starting is-sue at source. Quality issues can arise at any – or many – of the process steps in yarn manufactur-ing. Tracing their origins calls for plenty of experience, combined with reliable data. Assistant Q, comparable with new staff coming with USTER®QUALITY EXPERT, has both: built-in application know-how and accurate data analytics. He is like an expert employee with 70 years’ experience, embodying USTER’s application intelligence and integrating textile knowledge with detailed analysis and insights.

The system delivers real-time noti-fications to smartphones and tab-lets. “USTER®MOBILE ALERTS app connects us 24/7 to quality and allows a fast information flow. Issues can be solved in significant-ly less time,” says Çelebi. From one single application, mobile de-vices receive early warnings about potential quality problems – as well as indications of the source of the issue and advice on saving raw material. Combined data from in-line and laboratory instruments, continuously analyzed by Assis-tant Q, keeps managers informed about quality issues in production and helps initiate immediate coun-ter-measures. And it’s important to remember that the Alarm Center highlights all these issues automat-

ically and instantly, with no need for configuration by the spinner.

Optimization in all aspectsU S T E R ®Q U A L I T Y E X P E RT opens up new horizons for pro-cess optimization in the entire mill. Value Modules are included in USTER®QUALITY EXPERT and these combine to automate costly tasks, prevent faults and elevate process performance to the re-quired quality level, constantly and reliably.

By taking advantage of two Val-ue Modules – Mill Analysis and Alarm Center – Çelebi is strongly convinced: USTER®QUALITY EX-PERT boosts product quality and mill profitability.

The Lenzing Group is a global leader in the climate-friendly and sustainable production of wood-based textile fibers. Lenzing announced its climate targets in August of this year. By 2030, the company aims to reduce its specific CO2 emissions per ton of manufactured pulp and fibers by 50 percent. By the year 2050, the Lenzing Group will no longer generate any net CO2 emissions.

Lenzing‘s Management Board has now resolved to invest EUR 40 mn to expand the production of the raw material sulfuric acid at the Lenzing site. This comprises an important milestone on the path towards climate neutrality. In the future, a new air purification and sulfur recovery plant will not only optimize the company’s self-sufficiency for this raw material and enhance process reliability but improve environmental protection within the context of a clear forward-looking strategy.

The new plant represents an important contribution towards implementing the sustainability strategy of the Lenzing Group, and also helps to ensure an even higher level of environmental compatibility of all production operations at the Lenzing site. The application of state-of-the-art technologies will further improve exhaust emission values. Furthermore, the new facility will help further reduce the use of fossil fuels by generating steam which will, in turn, be converted into electricity. In this way, it will also support the energy self-sufficiency of the company’s operations in Lenzing.

As a result, the production plant in Lenzing will reduce its annual CO2 emissions by 15,000 tons. This is an important step towards further advancing the company’s ambitious plans in the coming years and also strengthen Lenzing’s leadership role as a driver of ecologically sustainable industry. “On the basis of these investments, Lenzing is taking the next step in achieving its climate targets. At the same time, it will also reach a significantly higher level of autonomy with respect to a vital raw material”, states Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing.

Lenzing invests EUR 40 mn to further improve the ecological footprint of the Lenzing site

October 2019 43


Heralding luxurious fabrics, Moda Biella ups the ante onmen’s style by offering exquisitedesigns with utmost comfort. The Italian brand was launched in Dubai in September 2019, in the presence of the crème-de-la-crème of the textile industry from PAN-India.

Setting the premise for the launch, Mr. Vikram Mahaldar, (MD & CEO, OCM) talked about the market landscape and about the niche segment that luxury brands held. He explained why the group invested in an idea of bringing an Italian heritage brand to the Indian market and how the company plans to accomplish its strategic goals. He went on to say, “‘Moda’ in Italian means fash-ion & ‘Biella’ is the textile hub of Italy – hence the brand connotes fashion from Biella. The way the

Italy’s luxury heritage fashion brand, ‘Moda Biella’ forays into Indian market

retailers have complimented the range has really boosted our confidence and we believe Moda Biella will be a strong brand to reckon with in the future.”

Moda Biella presents a brilliant

array of unique fabrics in exotic blends of cashmere, merino, silk and linen. The range of fabrics is for the discerning customer and excels in technical innovation.

The brand is deep rooted to its heritage of making world-class fabrics and are entrenched in forecasting and pioneering in contemporary market trends.

Mr. Malcolm Campbell, a Eu-ropean Advisor of the MODA BIELLA team, said “MODA BIEL-LA has the most beautiful cloths in the world that has been inspired by Italian design andquality; and created exclusively for the In-dian market. Bringing a sartorial elegance that is second to none, we’re convinced that this range from today will keep growing and

Display of fabric at the launch event of Moda Biella

Moda Biella launch event

44 October 2019


will become one of the most pop-ular collections in the world.”

A beautiful fusion of old-value provenance and progressive techniques is the true essence behind Moda Biella. The brand is a result of centuries of tradition from Biella, brought to India with impeccable quality, unmatched finish and truly Italian style.

About Moda Biella:Moda Biella has been a revered

brand in Italy. The fabrics are tru-

ly top notch- with superfine exotic fibres to produce a remarkable array of superfine cloths. With a line-up of finely designed fabrics, this brand will not only be deep-rooted to its heritage of making world class fabrics but also excel in technical innovation.

About OCM:OCM, one of India’s largest

fabric manufacturers,forays into the Indian market with the launch of Italy’s luxurious heritage fash-ion brand – “Moda Biella”.

The Company has a sprawling 37 acre complex that houses a new-age plant with an annual ca-pacity of 8 million meters of fabric and an employee base of 1,900.The company’s ownership lies with the promoters of the Donear Group.

The product design function is at the forefront of global styl-ing. Today, the Company has an extensive product range of high quality all-wool and wool-blended worsted fabrics.

Get a chance to be a part of the Live KBC audience with GRADOThe Official Wardrobe Partner of KBC, GRADO brings you a

chance to watch KBC Live!GRADO is a new-age brand from the House of OCM with one of the greatest celebrity of Indian cinema, Mr. Amitabh Bachchan as the Brand Ambassador. GRADO caters to maximum product segments and across a range of price; so there is comfort and style for everyone. The product positioning and price points plays an important role in increasing potential for trade thereby, increasing not only the retail size, but stirring the consumer thought set too. From an end-consumer viewpoint, the composite Power Brand ‘GRADO’ offers a rich origin of fabrics and apparels to choose from, namely, Wool, Wool blends, PV, PV blends, Cotton and Cotton blends.

Kaun Banega Crorepati with Bollywood Shahenshah Amitabh Bachchan is back with the 11th season this year with GRADO as their Official Wardrobe Partner and Associate Sponsor. GRADO offers everyone to win an exclusive chance to visit the sets of Kaun Banega Crorepati and being a part of the studio audience, by participating in GRADO contest.

Each week, four lucky winners will be announced and gratified with GRADO give-aways along with a chance to be part of the KBC studio audience.These winners get a chance to experience a paid trip* to KBC’s Mumbai studio and to be a part of the live KBC audience.

Power brand GRADO, from the House of GBTL and OCM is a trailblazer in the textile and fashion industry. The brand has established itself by offering premium and top-quality fabrics.

The Brand’s recent association with the 11th season of Kaun Banega Crorepati - India’s most watched quiz-reality show – as the Official Wardrobe Partner; is a moment of pride for the brand.

October 2019 45


ColorJet India Ltd, India’s biggest man-ufacturer of digital inkjet textile printers in association with Niti Singhal, a renowned fashion designer from the house of ‘Twee in One’, showcased her collection at Flying Solo at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2019.

NYFW was recently held in New York from September 6-11, 2019 where famous faces like Gigi Hadid, Priyanka Chopra and Kriti Sanon along with 70+ designers and around 700 guests were present for this prestigious event.

Flying Solo is an innovative fashion brand, an organisation of designers and a platform,which is revolutionising fashion by making up-coming designers the main beneficiaries. The result is a hotbed of creativity, inspiration, and the most vibrant experience in New York City.

As the awareness of sustainability grows in the fashion industry, there are voices awakening in the fashion industry that recognise the toll on the environment, and are pushing forward to encourage sustainable fashion. ColorJet strives to achieve sustainability in the industry and has taken a step forward by collaborating with Niti Singhal at Flying Solo – NYFW to spread awareness about this initiative.

Niti Singhal, founder of ‘Twee in One’ creates convertible and reversible clothing that easily lets you change your look from Day to Night; Formal to Casual and; Meet-ing to Party; with just one set of clothing. Niti Singhal says, “With the idea of a move-ment towards sustainability, I came up with this concept of Twee in One, which tries to promote more style with lesser clothing.

Colorjet Styling Sustainable Fashion Printing At New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2019

“One can have right quantity of clothes in his/her wardrobe and yet have many looks and that’s how I re-define sustain-ability. Moreover, I also use sustainable digital textile printing methods for all my designs,” Singhal informs.

The designs showcased in the show consisted of a mix of Cotton Wrap Satin fabric printed with Reactive ink, Polyester Crepe fabric printed with Disperse ink and Cotton Satin fabric printed with Pigment ink.

Digital Textile printing, as compared to its traditional analogue alternatives, is more sustainable in the ways of minimal waste generation and offers a way forward towards clean, efficient and profitable manufacturing.

Whereas, traditional Rotary screen-printing uses 50-60 litres per metre of wa-ter, Digital Textile printing is the efficient alternative, which consumes only 14-20 litres per metre of water. This has helped save as much as 40 billion litres of water

worldwide in just 2018. It also offers ink ef-ficiency by consuming only 10% of colour as compared to screen-printing.

ColorJet with its various Digital Printing Solutions provides a better and a sustainable way of printing. Color-Jet printers has advanced capabilities to match the pace of ever evolving trends and has opened new avenues for many who are looking out for superb quality and innovative design.

Smarth Bansal, DGM (Brand & Prod-uct) at ColorJet adds, “It is exciting to see that the fashionistas themselves are bring-ing about the change they wish to see regarding sustainability. At ColorJet, we always strive to be a responsible brand and take steps towards it. With this par-ticipation, ColorJet has stepped right into the middle of things to promote the cause of sustainability by spreading awareness aboutthe benefits of digital textile printing over traditional printing methods.”

For more information, please visit www.colorjetgroup.com

Founded in 2004, ColorJet India Ltd, the largest manufacturer of digital inkjet printers in India, maintains its operations via two manufacturing facilities and sales offices spread across seven countries, which include India, China, Bangladesh, UAE and Sri Lanka. ColorJet India markets its products in 25 countries worldwide and has installed and implemented over 4,000 of its printing solutions and products across 450 cities around the world backed.

46 October 2019


Mr. TVR Chandran & Mrs. Parvathi TVR Chandran

Website: www.textileindia.net


Publishers: Parvathi TVR Chandran Publications

Our Value Creation Activities for Growth of Indian Textile Industry

Bi-monthly – Published in February, April, June, August, October & December

Print Readership: 10,000Internet Readership: 1,00,000

Please contact the undersigned for coverage in our journal:

Mr Raju Chandran +91 9820048364Mr Viswanath Chandran Vicha +91 9487757689

Textile India ProgressParvathi TVR Chandran PublicationsPatil Building, Flat No 19, 1st Floor, Plot No 38, Sion (W),Behind Guru Kripa Hotel,Mumbai-400 022,Maharashtra, IndiaTel: +91 22 24097782 +91 22 24097185Email: [email protected] site: www.textileindia.net

Publishers: Parvathi TVR Chandran Publications August 2019 www.textileindia.net


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