House plants can be propagated in a variety ofways. The methods used can be categorized as sex-ual (seeds or spores) or asexual (vegetative), the lat-ter involving such techniques as division and separa-tion, grafting and budding, layering and various typesof cuttings. Not all house plants can be propagatedusing all these methods; certain methods are bettersuited for the propagation of certain plants. This pub-lication briefly describes some of the more commonlyused techniques.

Sexual Propagation A number of common foliage and flowering house

plants are easily propagated from seeds. Theseinclude umbrella tree, false aralia, tree philodendron,and many palms, cacti, and succulents. Many ferns,such as Boston, bird’s nest, and maidenhair, can bepropagated from spores.

Sexual propagation is relatively simply and inex-pensive and can usually be done without special prop-agating structures. However, because sexual propa-gation depends on the uniting of genes from two par-ent plants, a certain amount of variation should beexpected in the offspring. Seedling plants may varyconsiderably from the plant that bore the seeds.

Seed PropagationSeeds of tropical plants generally require no pre-

treatment like those of temperate woody plants, whichmay require moist chilling before germination canoccur. In fact, seeds of tropical plants should general-ly be sown as soon as they mature.

Use a sterilized medium or commercial grademedium low in soluble salts such as milled sphagnummoss, vermiculite or a mixture of equal parts sand andpeat moss. Almost any container with drainage holescan be used. Bottom heat (70° to 75°F) usuallyspeeds up germination but is not essential; thermo-statically controlled heating cables and mats come inseveral sizes and provide uniform heating.

Sow the seeds sparingly. If crowded together tooclosely, poor air circulation will increase the likelihood ofdamping-off, a fungal disease that attacks seedlings at

the soil line. Extremely fine seeds should not be cov-ered; larger seeds are usually covered to a depth abouttwice their size. It is a good idea to cover the containerwith glass or plastic to keep the medium from drying out.

CAUTION: Remove the covering when seedlingsappear. Label each flat or pot with the variety, plant-ing date and other information you may desire. Thisprovides a handy reference.

Check the seeds daily. Never allow them to dryout. Most seeds do not require light for germination.Filtered light is usually provided to germinating seeds,however, the light level should be increased whengermination occurs; otherwise, weak, spindlyseedlings will result. Seeds of many house plants areeasily germinated under artificial light. Remember thatthe seedlings must be located close to the lightsource, usually not more than 12 inches in the case offluorescent lamps.

Seedlings are transplanted more easily and withless shock when they are small. Most seedlings canbe transplanted after the first true leaves appear.Dislodge the seedlings by lifting from below with aspoon or wooden label. Handle the seedlings by theirroot balls or by their leaves, NEVER by their stems.Replant them in their new container at approximatelythe same depth as they were growing and firm the soilaround the roots. Water thoroughly and begin light fer-tilizer applications.

Planting SporesMost ferns are propagated by division, but many

can be propagated by spores which ferns produce onthe underside of their fronds in structures called sori.The spores, which are the size of dust particles,should be scattered on the surface of a sterilizedmedium, usually one high in organic matter such aspeat moss. Cover the container with a pane of glassor plastic to retain moisture. Place in a window receiv-ing filtered light (rapid heating can occur under glassor plastic in direct light) or under artificial light. Bepatient—it takes several weeks, sometimes months,for the young plants to germinate and reach sufficienttransplanting size.

PROPAGATING HOUSE PLANTSPrepared by P. A. Thomas, Extension Horticulturist

Asexual Propagation House plants can be propagated using a variety of

asexual or vegetative techniques. Asexual propaga-tion leads to the production of new plants usuallyexactly like the parent plant; thus unique characteris-tics can be passed on to the offspring. Some plantsproduce few or no viable seeds, or they may be slowto germinate and develop. Larger plants can often beobtained more quickly using vegetative propagationtechniques.

Separation and DivisionSeparation and division is certainly one of the eas-

iest and quickest ways to propagate many plants.Plants like snake plant, Boston fern, asparagus fern,prayer plant and African violet are easily propagatedusing these techniques. Many palms and bromeliadsproduce offsets at the base of the mother plant.

Simply remove the mother plant from its containerand separate or divide it by pulling or cutting it apart.Each division should have some roots attached.Repot the new plants.

CuttingsThere are many types of cuttings that can beused to propagate house plants. Certain cuttagetechniques are better suited for certain plants.Tip Cuttings

Tip cuttings (Figure 1) are a popular way of prop-agating many plants. Cuttings, usually three to sixinches long, are taken from the tip of the stems orbranches. The lower one-third of the foliage isremoved, and the stem inserted into the rooting medi-um one to one-and-one-half inches deep.

Stem CuttingsStem cuttings are similar to tip cuttings except that

lower portions of the stem or branch are utilized, thusseveral cuttings can be obtained from a single stem.

Make the upper cut just above a node and the lowercut just below a node. Strip and insert the cutting asabove. Be sure to place the cutting in right side up.

Leaf-bud CuttingsLeaf-bud cuttings (Figure 2) provide an excellent

means of propagating many vine-type foliage plantssuch as heart-leaf philodendron, devil’s ivy and grapeivy and can be used for large-leaved plants like rubberplant. Single-eye cuttings are taken from plants withalternate leaves and have only one leaf and one axil-lary bud per cutting. Double-eye cuttings are takenfrom plants with opposite leaves, and have two leavesand buds per cutting. A leaf-bud cutting need not con-sist of a complete stem sec-tion. With rubber plant, aleaf and small section ofstem tissue are usuallytaken; cuttings of thistype are sometimesreferred to as “heelcuttings.”

Leaf CuttingsLeaf cuttings are used to propagate many house

plants such as begonias, African violet, succulents,peperomia, gloxinia and snake plant. Since leaf cut-tings do not include an axillary bud (which gives riseto the new plant), they can only be used to propagatespecies which have the capability of forming adventi-tious buds which can also give rise to new plants.There are several types of leaf cuttings:

Leaf-Petiole CuttingsLeaf-petiole cuttings consist of a leaf blade

and attached petiole and can be used to propa-gate such plants as African violet, peperomia, andsome begonias (Figure 3). Roots and newplantlets form at the base of the petiole.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Leaf-Blade CuttingsLeaf-blade cuttings

consist of the leaf bladeonly (no petiole) and areused to propagate plantssuch as jade, sedum andcertain cacti (Figure 4).Roots and plantlets format the base of the leafblade.Leaf-Vein Cuttings

Rex begonia and cer-tain other large-leavedplants can be propagatedby cutting through theveins of single leaves in several places (Figure 5).New plantlets will form at each cut; thus multipleplants can be produced from a single leaf asopposed to a single plant typically produced withleaf-blade cuttings.

Leaf-Section CuttingsIndividual leaves of some plants can be cut

into sections to produce new plants. Leaves ofsnake plant can be cutinto pieces two tothree inches long andinserted (right side up)in the rooting medium.New plantlets will format the base (Figure 6).This method cannotbe used to propagatecertain forms of varie-gated snake plantbecause the variega-tion is not reproducedin the new plant. Rexbegonia can also bepropagated using leaf sections, which are usuallycut into wedge-shaped pieces and inserted verti-cally into the medium.

Cane CuttingsCane cuttings provide an easy method of propa-

gating certain plants like dumbcane, Chinese ever-green and corn plant. Leafless stem sections, usuallytwo to three inches long, are cut from older stems andinserted into the medium either vertically or horizon-tally (Figure 7). Each section must contain at least onenode. The sections will eventually root and produce ashoot. The process is somewhat slow and mayrequire several weeks or months. That portion of theoriginal stock plant remaining in the pot after removalof the stem and cane cuttings will sprout and producea new stem, thereby renewing the original plant.

Regardless of the type cutting you use, certainessentials are common to all in order to insure suc-cess. Start with healthy cuttings. Weakened or dis-eased cuttings seldom root well or result in qualityplants. Use a sharp knife to take cuttings. Blunt instru-ments, like scissors, tend to crush the tissue, restrict-ing water uptake and opening the way for disease.

Rooting hormones can be used to improve orspeed up rooting in some plants. Various commercialformulations are available. Most house plants rootreadily and rooting hormones are seldom necessary.

Cuttings should be rooted in soil, not water. Waterrooted cuttings are generally weak and brittle and dopoorly under transplanting. The rooting medium usedshould be firm enough to support the cuttings yet of aconsistency to allow easy removal when rooted. Gooddrainage and aeration are essential. Sand, vermi-culite, perlite and combinations of these materials withpeat moss or sphagnum moss often work well. Therooting medium should be sterile and moist. Mostcommercially prepared media are sterile and ready touse. To sterilize your own mix, place it in the oven at180 for 30 minutes. Space cuttings so that they haveadequate room to root without over-crowding.

Daytime air temperatures of 70° to 80°F and nighttemperatures of 60° are satisfactory for propagating

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

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Circular 950 Reviewed April, 2009