Pratotrade - Touch the fabric SS 2015 English
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Transcript of Pratotrade - Touch the fabric SS 2015 English
touchthefabricss15look at the clothes
Touch the fabric: Prato fabric manufacturers show the fashion trends of the district
Creativity, swiftness of reaction and technical capacity are more and more important in order tokeep pace in a world where uncertainty and instability prevail as it is the case of the world of fashion. Italy, and in particular Prato for the product meant for the women’s universe, have always beenimportant partners for those who compete in this competitive arena.For this reason, Pratotrade, thanks to the support of Toscana Promozione (Economic PromotionAgency of Tuscany) gathered and took pictures of the fabrics for the S/S 15 season which thePrato enterprises launch at Première Vision; the aim is to offer the most of the stylisticcreativity to the world of fashion. A visual pathway has been built upon 4 themes - Contemporary raw, Urban Chic, Fresh dynamism,Light memories- and it consists of fascination and ideas for designers, culminating in a series of itemswhich exemplify and interpret the best you can find at Prato for the coming season.All the items displayed at Milano Unica and at Prémière Vision have been designed and manufacturedat Prato proving that, within few kilometres, it is possible to come full circle of a fashion product bycutting times and costs of collections.
Keywords:
light, airy, imperceptible, fine,simplicity, austerity, Franciscan rigor, zenmeditation, mysticism, silenceunderstate, simple, emptybucolic playfulnostalgic, souvenir, impressions, tracesliquid, diluted, ichthyic vegetal, cellulose, naturalmultisensory, olfactorysustainableunique (haute craft), sophisticated, complex, spectacular
touchthefabricss15
Colours:
Yellow (canary, extra pale, techno)Very light pastel colours (pink, skin tone, peach, apricot, lilac)Dehydrated neutral coloursBerries (violet ones, rose-coloured ones) darker in SummertimeRed + Violet (sexy)Light Indigo Liquid green colours Metallic ones: Copper (oxidized as well)
Print:
Reviewed ethnic afro and with no colourVery simple two coloured, neutral or b/w (true or imitated) geometric and graphic patternsVery spaced prints, a lot of background, small and far away patterns. Symbolic patterns: fishes, small and subtle insects (butterflies, dragonflies etc.) Fragmented, delicate and transparent photosDynamic prints (living paintings)Nostalgic images (postcards, souvenir, holydays like the 50s etc.)Floral vintage: flowers Gucci, Ferragamo, Leonard (with pastel and bleached colours)Dry flowers, barely visible like stains.Vegetal patterns (fruits and vegetables)
contemporary raw
01
Linen and natural cellulose fibres, visible wefts, lints, leno weave canvassesOpaque coatings Margiela type, ultra opaque chalky effectsMade of natural silk, calendering and glazing on natural fabrics,open works like laces on washed and boiled raw basesLinge de maison spirit beginning of the 20th centuryPatterns: cleansed graphic designs, Bauhaus geometries,striped fabric like the grandma underwear, calligraphic checks
Raw, rustic, natural, antique, inspired by the retrò underwear, uncoloured or colouredwith natural colours. Canvas, etamine, ancient wefts. Even very light, sophisticated, never coloured Linen batiste. Sweater made of linen, often “inside out”. Terrycloth and honeycomb made of linen
Non synthetic cellulose fibres (bamboo, hemp, ramie, nettle, jute etc.) Straw, raffia for embroideries and trimmingsVegetal dyes. 100% recyclable
Chalky, extra matt surfaces, made of linen or of cotton Opaque even irregular stained and sprayed coatings
Dry, paper, stone, natural surfaces. Cotton fabrics
Leno weave canvas, muslin, tulle. Plain weave with large weft made of linen and cotton
Rustic lace made of linen and cotton (macramé, crochet, Burano and Brouges)Rustic stripes like towels. Terrycloth, chenille. Everything rigorously without colour
Core/raw/rustic contemporary
Linen
Cellulose fibres
Extra-opaque
Dry
Lint
Inspiration retrò linen
natural raw fabrics
1
5
3
2
4
6
7
8
9
1- Mario Bellucci2- Lineaesse3- Emmetex4- Lanificio Cangioli 18595- Linea Tessile Italiana6 -Lanificio Europa7- Linea Tessile Italiana8- Efilan9- Pontetorto
Déshabillé
Mark Manders / Room with Broken Sentence
opaque coatings
1
1- Marini Industrie/Marini Tessuti2- Lineaesse3- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento4- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana
2 3
4
1
2
3
4
5
1- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana2- Warp & Weft3- Becagli4- Binicocchi5- O’Jersey6 - Lanificio Cangioli 1859
6
natural whites
suit Filippo Fanini
inspiration retrò linen
2
1
3
4
5
6
7
1- Emmetex/Emmeci2- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana3- Pontetorto4- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni5- Warp &Weft6 - Marini Industrie/Ospiti del mondo7- Manteco
franciscan rigor
1
2 3
6
7
8
9
10
4
5
1- Binicocchi2- Alibi3- Manteco4- Alibi5- Fortex6- Bellandi7- Fortex8- Bellandi9- Warp & Weft10- Linea Tessile ItalianaBiennale Venezia 2013
dry surfaces
1
2
3
4
5
6
1- Bellandi2- Lanificio Europa3- Linea Tessile Italiana4- Inseta5- Linea Ross6- Linea Tessile Italiana
Elisabetta Benassi / e Dry Salvages
dress 1.Dark-Level
dehydrated neutral colours
1
2
3
4
5
6
1- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni2- Alibi3- Furpile Idea4- Becagli5- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento6- Fortex
relief surfaces
1
1- Furpile Idea2- Bardazzi Alberto3- Faliero Sarti4- Inseta5- Lanificio Corti Marcello6- Lineaesse7- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana8- Linea Ross
2
5
4
Antoine Bourdelle
8
7
6
3
Allyson Mellberg
1
9
1- Lanificio Cangioli 18592- Lanificio Cangioli 18593- Manteco4- Lanificio Corti Marcello5- Marini Industrie/Marini & Cecconi6- Linea Ross7- Bellandi8- Bardazzi Alberto9- Mario Bellucci
8
2
3
45
6
7
visible wefts
7
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1- Binicocchi2- Furpile Idea3- Faliero Sarti4- Efilan5- Lanificio Corti Marcello6- Linea Tessile Italiana7- Inseta8- Furpile Idea9- Pontetortoirregular gatherings
urban chic
02
Denim processings on formal, urban bases, drapes etc. Sartorial denim, denim on non-twill plain weaves: canvas,satin. Washed, opaque silk. Flowing materials. Liquid effects. Tie & dye chic and not very contrastedVelvety velvets and surfaces. Delicately iridescent coatings. Copper and oxidized metals Patterns: reviewed micro flowers, amish, western ones. Ichthyic one .Sailor ones. Everything small almost plain
Moderate and non-aggressive bleaching, feminized denim spirit. Natural bleaching (solar ones, saline ones etc.)Decorative stains of arty spirit and non-street wear (berries colours)Diluted aspects, moderate tie & dye with natural dyes on elaborated surfaces, too. Coatings of colour(indigo, natural). Removed elements (pockets and seams) which leave their traces
Ultra-light jeans, indigo colouring for very light lints and canvasses. Twill, compact and tailored wefts or non-twill100% linen denim. Denim as a sartorial fabric
Blended and marl yarns. Chiné of sporty kind reviewed in a chic version. Rustic sweatshirts, chambrai
In natural, shot, rustic version. Or boiled, stone washed and casual one
Natural and moderate brightness (glossy woollens, tussah silk). Chinzs, calenderingsSatin in metal colours
Peach touch. Silk + nylon. Washed, opacified silk
Mineral veins, marble, alabaster, semi-transparent and raw too, not smoothed. Opaque
Indigo+ /denim chic/lu-xury work wear/sailor
Bleached chic
Denim deluxe
Chinè
Silk
Glossy surfaces
Peach touch
Marbled
diluted aspects
1 2
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4
5
6
7
8
9
1- Inseta2- Marini Industrie/Marini Tessuti3- Linea Ross4- Alibi5- Emmetex/Masterloom6- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento7- Manteco8- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento9- Inseta
2
3
4
5
6
7
7
1
1- Linea Tessile Italiana2- Fortex
3- Linea Tessile Italiana4- Warp & Weft5- Warp & Weft
6- Bellandi
micro patterns
glossy surfaces
12
3
4
5
6
7
1- Emmetex/Masterloom2- Lineaesse3- Emmetex4- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento5- Linea Ross6- Pontetorto7- Bardazzi
1
1- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento2- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento3- Alibi4- Binicocchi5- Warp & Weft6- Inseta7- Bellandi8- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni9- Inseta
2
3
4
6
7
8
9
5
fluid and semi-transparent
ultralight Chanel wefts suit Filippo Fanini
1- M.t.t Manifattura Tessile Toscana2-M.t.t Manifattura Tessile Toscana
3- Binicocchi4- Pontetorto5- Pontetorto
6- Lineaesse7- Pontetorto
2
17
3
4
6
5
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1- Binicocchi2- Linea Tessile Italiana3- Faliero Sarti4- Mario Bellucci5- Warp & Weft6- Manteco7- Emmetex8- Emmetex/Masterloom
metropolitan geometries
denim spirit
1 2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1- Manteco2- Lanificio Europa3- Lanificio Europa4- Faliero Sarti5- Emmetex/Emmeci6- Fortex7- Emmetex8- Manteco9- Marini Industrie/Marini & Cecconi10- Efilan
oxidized metals
1
2
3
6
8
4
5
7
1- Pontetorto2- Lanificio Corti Marcello
3- Marini Industrie/ Marini Tessuti Uomo4- Marini Industrie/ Marini Tessuti Uomo
5- Lanificio Corti Marcello6- M.ts. Linea Abbigliamento7- M.ts. Linea Abbigliamento
8- Emmetex
11- Fortex2- Linea Tessile Italiana3- Efilan4- Emmetex/Masterloom5- Inseta6- Inseta7- Fortex8- Linea Tessile Italiana9- Inseta10- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo11- Bellandi
2
3
4
5
67
8
9
10
11
translucent roughness
decorative spots
1
23
4
5
1- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni2- Lanificio Cangioli 18593- Inseta4- Lanificio Cangioli 18595- Fortex
deluxe denim
2
34
56
7
8
9
1
1- Faliero Sarti2- Ciatti & Baroncelli
3- Bardazzi Alberto4- Fortex
5- Ciatti & Baroncelli6- Fortex
7- Emmetex8- Manteco
9- Mario Bellucci
into the darkness
11- Fortex
2- Emmetex/Masterloom3- Binicocchi
4- O’Jersey5- Mario Bellucci
6- Emmetex/Masterloom7- Lineaesse
8- Linea Ross
2
3 4
5
6
7
8
1
1- Marini Industrie/Marini & Cecconi2- Faliero Sarti
3- Efilan4- Mario Bellucci
5- Emmetex/Masterloom6- Binicocchi
7- Linea Tessile Italiana8- Lanificio Europa
9- Faliero Sarti10- Mario Bellucci
3
4 5
68
9
10
2
7
micro elegance
03
fresh dynamism
Foam back, neoprene ultra-light, rubbery matches. Compact and clear-cut materials, thoughultra-light. Honey-combed ones, 3D nets. Aerated fabrics. Lightness and performanceJersey and stretch fabrics with an old-futurist look: jersey and interlock inspired by the pastsporting uniforms reviewed with modern materials and finishings. Crêpe and by-productsFaded pastel colours, a lot of white and natural also Futurist, abstract, contemporary and graphic patterns. Relief and rubbery printsDynamic prints on an overlapped film
Ultra-light doublings, thin neoprene, slightly coloured. Foam and gel inclusionsSummer Foamback
Contact prints, relief quiltings, rubber prints. Matelassé, damasksHot embossing. Plain all the time, often extra-opaque or metal
Nets and tulles made of natural fibres as well (linen, cotton, viscose)Voluminous as well (fishing nets) with retrò aspects and neutral coloursStretch nets. Hi-tech nets of sporting inspiration (scuba)Honey-combed nets, 3D fabrics in sporty colours, but sophisticated
One of the season musts, always present but never extreme or blaring Slightly iridescent surfaces: nacre, mica, soap bubbles
One of the strong themes of the season. Crêpe (traditional, but also irregular, imperfect),Summer woollens. Contrasts of smooth/glossy (satin) and grainy/opaque
Dynamo / urban sport /active + formal
Neoprene/Foamy
Relief surfaces
Net
Iridescenze
Crêpe
1
2
3
4
56
8
7
1- Linea Ross2- Becagli3- Becagli4- Inseta5- Bellandi6- Faliero Sarti7- Inseta8- Bardazzi Alberto honey combed ones, 3D fabrics
suit Filippo Fanini dress 1.Dark-Level
compact jersey
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1- Manteco2- Binicocchi3- Linea Ross4- Emmetex5- Emmetex6- Mario Bellucci7- Marini Industrie/Marini & Cecconi8- Faliero Sarti9- Faliero Sarti
1
1- Manteco2- Mario Bellucci3- Leathertex4- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo5- Furpile idea6- Pontetorto7- Linea Ross8- O’Jersey9- Lanificio Cangioli 1859
2
4
5
6
7
8
9
3
aerated solids
1
2
3
4
5
6
1- O’Jersey2- Binicocchi3- Linea Ross4- Lanificio Europa5- Pontetorto6- Lanificio Caverni & Gramignioutlined cleanliness
Ernesto Neto / Horizon of events III
1
2
3
45
6
7
8
9
10 1- Bellandi2- Bardazzi Alberto3- Lineaesse4- Binicocchi5- Lanificio Cangioli 18596- Emmetex/Masterloom7- Emmetex/Emmeci8- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo9- Mario Bellucci10- Lineaesse
lightness and performance
Palais du Tokyo / Intense proximity
1
2
3
4
5
6
1- Lineaesse2- Lanificio Europa3- Lanificio Europa4- Bardazzi Alberto5- Lineaesse6- Pontetorto
hi-tech nets
12
3
4
5
1- LineaEsse2- Manteco3- Emmetex/Emmeci4- Leathertex5- Linea Ross
Daniel Buren / Excentrique(s)
double
1
1- Pontetorto2- Manteco3- Mario Bellucci4- Bellandi5- Becagli6- Furpile Idea
2
3
4
56
urban technical
04
light memories
Seersucker, cloqué materials, stripes and two-coloured finished vichy. Simplified madrasShot yarns, slubby, shantung, rustic silk. Reconditioned vintage fabrics: taffeta, cadi, ottomanCretonne. Traces of disappeared elements. Glossy aspects like polyester of vintage bomber jacketSilk or viscose satin. Vintage, nostalgic patterns, postcards Invisible, bleached, faded prints, African patterns without too much colour
Seersucker vintage. Irregular gatherings, inspired by barks and by animal or vegetal epidermisor slightly sketched, delicate. Multicolour seersucker, huge or microscopic stripesFaded colours. Nostalgic prints on cloqué
Honeycomb textures, waffles, honeycombs, terryclothNot technical but natural and retrò aspects (underwear inspiration)
Slightly hairy surfaces (like dandelions), Summer mohair (“liquid” also)Natural colours or light pastel colours. Wadding, chenille
Shot and irregular yarns. Crepon, doupion. Shantung. Irregular and positioned plissé
Bouclé yarns, ultra-light Summer Chanel wefts, (b/w or pastel)
Contrasts suede + leather. New pastel colours
in pinstripes and checks. Calligraphic madras, filiform geometric patterns,checked and irregular abstracts (Bauhaus, Mondrian, Niemeier, Le Corbusier, Expo 2015)on raw bases. Decorative stitchings. Vichy and two-coloured and stone washed OshKosh stripes Vintage checks, pic-nic spirit
Memory/ nostalgic/retròfifties vintage /exotic
Cloqué
Honeycomb
FluffyHairy
Slubby
Summer tweed
Suede
Checks
new pastel colours
11- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni2- Furpile Idea3- Warp & Weft4- Linea Ross5- Alibi6- Linea Ross7- Binicocchi8- Efilan9- Manteco10- Manteco
7
23
4
5
6
8
10
9
memory
3
7
8
9
10
12
13
14
2
4
5
1
6
11
1- Pontetorto2- Mario Bellucci3- Linea Ross4- Lanificio Cangioli 18595- O’Jersey6- Lanificio Corti Marcello7- Emmetex8- Efilan9- Ciatti & Baroncelli10- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo11- Emmetex/Emmeci12- Inseta13- Lanificio Europa14- Lineaesse
Saatchi gallery, London
iridescence
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
81- Faliero Sarti2- Linea Ross3- Efilan4- Warp & Weft5- Inseta6- Faliero Sarti7- Leathertex8- LineaEsse
suit Filippo Fanini
stampe nostalgicheliquid greens
1
1- Binicocchi2- Lanificio Europa3- O’Jersey4- Efilan5- Binicocchi6- Inseta7- Becagli8- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1
2
3
4
5
67
8
1- Binicocchi2- Emmetex/Masterloom3- Inseta4- Fortex5- Lineaesse6- Lanificio Cangioli 18597- Bellandi8- Pontetorto
fresh romance
cloqué
1
3
2
4
5
6
7
1- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni2- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo3- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni4- M.t.t Manifattura Tessile Toscana5- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento6- Efilan7- Pontetorto
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
910
7
1- Inseta2- Efilan3- Binicocchi4- Manteco5- Emmetex/Masterloom6- Lanificio Europa7- Efilan8- Lanificio Europa9- Manteco10- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana
natural brightness
skirt 1.Dark-Levelrelief patterns
1 2 3
4
5
1- Lanificio Caverni & Gramigni2- Efilan3- Furpile Idea4- Efilan5- Linea Ross
seersuckerirregular gatherings
12
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1- Pontetorto2- Emmetex3- Marini Industrie/Ospiti del Mondo4- Emmetex5- Manteco6- Lanificio Europa7- M.t.s. Linea Abbigliamento8- Linea Ross9- Inseta10- Warp & Weft
Manufacture nationale des Gobelins, Paris
1 2
3
4
5
6
78
9
1- Linea Tessile Italiana2- Lanificio Cangioli 18593- Warp & Weft4- Lanificio Corti Marcello5- Lanificio Europa6- Lanificio Cangioli 18597- Lanificio Ciatti e Baroncelli8- Lanificio Europa9- Lanificio Cangioli 1859
vintage checks, pic-nic spirit
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
10
7
1- Emmetex/Masterloom2- M.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana
3- Mario Bellucci4- Lanificio Corti Marcello
5- Lanificio Europa6- O’Jersey
7- Furpile Idea8- Efilan
9- Linea Ross10- Linea Ross
lively lightness
Biennale Venezia 2013
Items have been sewn by:
Alta Tensione srlCreazioni Sonia srl Cunningam srlGruppo Sartoriale International srl
Special thanksFilippo Fanini
1.Dark-levelby Gabriele Baldi
concept /photo / graphic design Elisabetta Scarpiniwww.elisabettascarpini.it
Fabrics supplied by:
Alibi srl, via Bruges, 39 59100 Prato (PO) - tel. 0574592541fax 0574667326 - [email protected] Alberto spa, via Toscana 9/11, 59110 Prato (PO)tel.0574624174 - fax 0574624160 - [email protected] - www.bardazzi.itBellandi spa, via dell’Industria 50/52, 59013 Montemurlo (PO)tel. 05747230 - fax 0574652902 - [email protected] - www.bellandi.itBinicocchi srl, via dei Fossi 12/C.P., 424, 59100 Prato (PO)tel.0574621251 - fax 0574620520 - [email protected] srl, via E.Bertini 11, 59110 Prato (PO - tel.057425684fax 0574605510 - [email protected] - www.efilan.comFurpile Idea spa, via Frediani 51/2, 59110 Prato (PO) - tel.057451711fax 05745171363 - [email protected] - www.furpileidea.itInseta srl, via Sabadell 131/1, 59100 Prato (PO) - tel. 057459714fax 0574597143 - [email protected] - www.inseta.netLanificio Becagli srl, via Labriola snc - Montemurlo (PO) - [email protected] - www.lanificiobecagliLanificio Cangioli 1859 spa, via Bisenzio a S.Martino 6, 59110 Prato (PO)tel.057447681 - fax 0574690444 - [email protected] - www.cangioli.itLanificio Caverni & Gramigni spa, via del Molinuzzo 4/G, 59110 Prato(PO) - tel.0574636660 - fax 0574636676 - [email protected] Ciatti & Baroncelli spa, via Toscana, 80 - C.P. 52, 59100 Prato(PO) - tel. 0574624447 - fax 0574622469 - [email protected] Corti Marcello srl, via Botticelli 81/83, 59110 Prato (PO)tel.0574574531 - fax 0574571874 - [email protected] Europa snc, via Montalese 176/C, 59110 Prato (PO) - tel.057469711 - fax 0574 697144 - [email protected] - www.laneuropa.itLanificio Faliero Sarti & Figli srl, via Vittorio Alfieri 92,50013 Campi Bisenzio (FI) - tel.05587421 - fax [email protected] - www.falierosarti.comLanificio Fortex spa, via Bisenzio 69, 59013 Montemurlo (PO)tel.0574652321 - fax 0574651667 - [email protected]
Lanificio Mario Bellucci spa, Via De Sanctis, 15/17 59100 Prato (PO) -tel. 0574631121 - fax 0574635463 - [email protected] srl, via G.di Vittorio 52, 59021 Vaiano (PO) - tel.057442301fax 057422115 - [email protected] - www.leathertex.itLineaesse Tessuti spa, via Inghirami 11/13, 59110 Prato (PO)tel.057470941 - fax 05747094262 - [email protected] Ross spa, via Frediani 51/2, 59110 Prato (PO) - tel.057473151fax 05747315416 - [email protected] - www.lineaross.itLinea Tessile Italiana spa, via delle Fonti 424, 59110 Prato (PO)tel.057451391 - fax 0574582569- lineatessileit@lineatessileitaliana.comwww.lineatessileitaliana.comM.t.t. Manifattura Tessile Toscana spa, via Paisiello, 15 - C.P. 49 50041Calenzano (FI) - tel. 055881351 - fax 0558876648 - [email protected] Emmetex spa, via Visiana 261, 59110 Prato (PO)tel. 0574662522 - fax 0574662528 - [email protected] spa, via della Viaccia, 19 59013 Montemurlo (PO)tel. 057462611 - fax 0574624405 - [email protected] Industrie spa, via Mario Cipriani 10, 59110 Prato (PO)tel. 0574637601 - fax 0574631072 - [email protected]. Linea Abbigliamento srl, via Guido Rossa, 26 - Comeana 59015Carmignano (PO) - tel. 055879121 - fax [email protected]’Jersey srl, via Schio 38, 59100 Prato (PO), 0574514137fax 0574575255 - [email protected] spa, via Roma 15/17/19/21-C.P. 184, 59013 Montemurlo(PO) - tel. 05746851 - fax 0574799252 - [email protected] & Weft srl, via delle Tre Ville 81, 50013 Campi Bisenzio (FI)tel. 0558953541 - fax 0558970900 - [email protected] www.warpandweft.it
touchthefabricss15look at the clothes
photos Elisabetta Scarpini 2014c
elisabetta scarpini studio
with the partecipation of