Fabric Study (Special Fabric)
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VOILE
A soft yet firm, sheer fabric of plain weave.
Generally made of combed hard twisted single yarns, although ply yarns are also used.
Has clinging effect. It is generally 100%
cotton , blends include polyester or linen.
Can be solid dyed or printed
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PROPERTIES
It is sheer and lightweight fabric It has soft feel It drapes and gathers very well Generally 100% cotton and less resilient
USES Ladies dresses, skirts and dress lining Accessory fabric in apparels
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POPLIN Poplin, also
called tabinet (or tabbinet), is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend
Poplin traditionally consisted of a silk warp with a weft of worsted yarn. As the weft is in the form of a stout cord the fabric has a ridged structure, like rep, which gave depth and softness to the lustre of the silky surface.
It is now made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, or any mixture of these, though originally made from silk.
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PROPERTIES It is soft and medium weight fabric It is durable and has good wear resistance It has average drapability It has poor crease resistance
USES men's shirts, blouses, pyjamas, children's clothes, and
dresses. Perfect for making banners or table drape displays in
stores or tradeshows. It is also widely used as all kinds of sportswear,
shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, blouses and dresses.
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MUSLIN
Coarse type of plain weave fabric made of carded cotton or polyster/cotton yarns of various thread counts heavier than long cloth upto 140.
Muslin is most typically an unbleached or white cloth, produced from carded cotton yarn
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PROPERTIES Unbleached greige cloth with low moisture absorption It is smooth and delicate It has good drapability It is light to medium weight It has low crease resistance
USES The upholsterers put muslin as the primary fabric
of chair and sofa. The fabric is lightweight, so it is used as slipcovers,
bedspread, bed skirt, throw pillow, table skirt, etc. Muslin curtains and window shade suits a country
house.
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GEORGETTE
Georgette (shortened from crêpe Georgette or Georgette crêpe) is a sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabric
Can be solid dyed or printed
crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft
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PROPERTIES
Uneven texture and has crispy feel It is a sheer fabric and light weight It has elegant look but dull appearance It snagging is more and is difficult to sew
USES
Used as interlining or lining Used to manufacture sarees Used for scarves , dresses and various
garment accessories
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GAUZE
May be of cotton, wool, silk, rayon and other man-made fibers.
Usually plain weave, leno-weave
Occassionally knitted Gauze used
in bookbinding is called mull, and is used in case binding to adhere the text block to the book cover
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PROPERTIES
Is thin and lightweight. It is fine and airy. It is crispy and has poor drape. It is open-textured.
USES
Bandages. Some silk or rayon gauze used for curtains,
trimmings. casual window dressings like panels
and scarves.
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SATIN
Originally silk, now also of filament man-made fibers with a highly lustrous surface and usually a dull back.
It is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric
Made in different weights
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PROPERTIES
Schreiner finish to produce lustre. Soft and good drapability It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface The surface slides easily for linings. The long floats like 7/1 or 11/1 and filament
fabrics are subject to snagging and is poor resistant to abrasion.
The shorter floats like 4/1 or ¼ and spun fabrics may be tough, compact and durable with low luster.
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USES
commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts,
Women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses and evening gowns, but also in some men's boxe shorts, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production of pointe shoes for use in ballet.
Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.
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VELVET Velvet is a type of woven
tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed , with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel.
Compact short pile of silk or man-made fiber and usually a cotton perhaps rayon back.
Similar to plush but shorter pile.
Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft or fill yarns.
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PROPERTIES
Smooth and softer It is thick and bulky Good warmth retention Good drape and fall Good crease resistance
USES Evening wear Upholstery Curtains and Cushions covers
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FLANNEL
A fuller and napped woven fabric, generally of wool yarn.
Woven with a twill weave which may be obscured by the nap.
Blends can be used to increase the comfort and drapability of the fabric
Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed.
Typically, flannel has either a single- or double-sided.
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PROPERTIES
It is soft and fuzzy It good stretchability It is thick and warm It is very durable It drapes well It is dull-surfaced It is slightly fuzzy It is scratchy It absorbs and releases perspiration quickly.
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USES
Bathrobes Skirts Men’s suits Trousers Flannel is used as blazers, jackets, trousers,
women's suits, men's suits, shirts, flannel pajamas, flannel pants, sleeping garments, work gloves, linings, coverings, and sheets flannel.
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DRILL
A durable fabric of medium weight. Usually three harness warp face left hand twills.
Made of carded yarns generally on coarser counts
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PROPERTIES
It is medium to heavy-weight. It is strong and durable It is breathable Has good drapability It is tightly woven fabric Has high tensile strength Various finishes can be imparted to suit the
end use of the fabric
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USES
The lighter weights drill is used for skirts, trousers, dresses, jackets, and household items.
The heavyweight drill is used as work clothes, industrial uses and wall coverings.
It is also used as pocketing, shoe linings, book bindings, corsets, backing for coated fabric, ticking, banners, slip covers and sportswear.
Khaki drill is used as uniforms and boat-sail drill is used as sails for sailing craft
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TERRY It is a warp pile fabric with
loops of warp threads alternating with ground threads.
Terrycloth, terry cloth, terry towelling, terry, or simply towelling is a fabric with loops that can absorb large amounts of water.
It can be manufactured by weaving or knitting, with weaving on a dobby loom the predominant commercial method, having two beams of longitudinal warp through which the filler or weft is fired laterally
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PROPERTIES
It is very absorbent and comfortable. It is easy to launder. It does not require ironing. It is bulky and thick
USES Towels, Bath robes, Beach coverups Sportswear, children’s wear Draperies Exercise wear Infants and toddler accessories
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DENIM
Firm, left hand, 2/1 3/1,twill weave of white filling and coloured warp, typically indigo dyed.
Uses coarse yarn for weaving
Generally warp dyed Slub yarns can also
be inserted for varied effects
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PROPERTIES
Strong, Durable It is for long wearing. It resists snags and tears.
USES casual style clothing, such as jeans, skirts. lightweight jackets and suits. shorts, children's clothes. for protective clothing. In apparel, it is used as jeans, skirts, shorts, light-
weight jackets and suits, uniforms, work-cloths, overalls, sportswear, caps, evening wear and children's cloth.
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CORDUROY
A ribbed pile fabric with a high luster and soft feel.
Made with extra filling threads, which floats over the ground threads.
After weaving these loops threads are cut , brushed, forming a pile.
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PROPERTIES
It is warm. It is durable fabric It is thick and stable fabric It absorbs and releases moisture quickly.
USES Used for better cloths, draperies and upholstery. It is commonly made into pants or trousers,
jackets (sports) and shirts. Corduroy is also used as skirts, suits, slacks,
children's cloths and dresses.
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CHIFFON
It is a fabric made of polyester with a soft and crispy texture.
High twist yarns are used for weaving
It is flimsy in nature Made from high
twisted yarn and woven in gummed condition.
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PROPERTIES
Highly twisted yarns Extremely lightweight and Flimsy It is elegant and sheer fabric. It is resilient and drapes well
USES Used for - special occasion dresses,
- nightgowns, - linings Also used as - eveningwear, - blouses - scarves.
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CAMBRIC It is a cloth made of high
quality cotton yarn and given a special finish.
This imparts a bright appearance to the cloth.
It is a lightweight plain weave cloth, originally from Cambrai , woven in greige, then bleached and piece-dyed, often glazed or calendered.
Initially made from flax, then cotton in the 19th century, it is also called batiste
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PROPERTIES Has stiff feel. The fabric is - light to medium weight, -Crispy Have high tensile strength
USES Home furnishing industries. linens, shirtings, handkerchieves and as fabric
for lace and needlework.
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SINGLE JERSEY - KNITS
Single jersey fabrics are manufactured by weft knitting technique
Here interlooping of single yarn takes place
Soft twisted yarns are used
It is manufactured on circular knitting machine
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PROPERTIES
High stretchability and elastic recovery Soft and resilient High drapability and good fall Dimensional stability is low High shrinkage in natural fiber
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s ,
Women’s and Kids wear Used for sports wear Used for manufacturing under garments Also used for industrial and medical purpose
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DOUBLE JERSEY – 1X1 KNIT RIB
Double jersey fabric is manufactured by weft knitting technique
Two sets of needles are used for face and back knitting
Can be 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, 2x1 rib etc depending on the end use
Interlooping of yarn takes place
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PROPERTIES High stretchability and elastic recovery is than
single jersey Soft and resilient Reversible type High drapability and good fall Dimensional stability is low High shrinkage in natural fiber
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s,
Women’s and Kids wear as accessory fabric Used in sports wear for collar and cuff Used for manufacturing under garments
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PIQUE - KNITS
Jersey fabric is manufactured by warp knitting technique
Can be knitted using any fibre content
One sets of needles are used for knitting
Interlooping of yarn takes place in vertical plane
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PROPERTIES Stretchability is low and elastic recovery is more
than weft knit single jersey Soft and resilient Non Reversible type High drapability and good fall Good Dimensional stability High shrinkage in natural fiber
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing basically
Men’s, Women’s and Kids polo T-shirts Used for manufacturing sports wear
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SLUB JERSEY - KNITS
Single jersey fabrics are manufactured by weft knitting technique
Here interlooping of slub yarn takes place
Soft twisted yarns are used
It is manufactured on circular knitting machine
Fabric dyeing is carried out in solid colors so that slub effect is prominent
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PROPERTIES
High stretchability and elastic recovery Soft and resilient High drapability and good fall Dimensional stability is low High shrinkage in natural fiber
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s ,
Women’s and Kids wear Used for sports wear Used for manufacturing under garments Also used for industrial and medical purpose
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FLEECE - KNITS
o Available as brushed or unbrused fleece
o It is a soft napped insulating synthetic fabric made from polyethylene terepthalate (PET) or other synthetic fibres
o Soft twisted yarns are used
o It is manufactured on circular knitting machine
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PROPERTIES
Low stretchability and high elastic recovery Soft, resilient and thick fabric Warmth retention High drapability and good fall Dimensional stability is high
USES Used in casual jackets, hats, sweaters, jogging
bottoms/sweatpants, gym clothes, Hoodies, inexpensive throw blankets, and high-performance outdoor clothing,
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FRENCH TERRY - KNITS
o Available as 3 or 4thread french terry in the market
o Soft twisted coarse yarns are used
o It is manufactured on flat knitting machine
o Consists of tuck and miss structure on the back side
o High GSM fabrico 100% Cotton
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PROPERTIES Low stretchability and high elastic recovery Soft, resilient and thick fabric Warmth retention Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for
face and back High drapability and good fall Highly absorbent Dimensional stability is high
USES Used in casual jackets,
hats, sweaters, jogging bottoms/sweatpants, gym clothes, Hood.
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GRINDLE JERSEY - KNITS
o Soft twisted coarse grindle yarns are used
o It is manufactured on circular knitting machine
o Medium to High GSM fabric
o 100% Cotton
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PROPERTIES Low stretchability and high elastic recovery Soft and resilient fabric Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used
for face and back High drapability and good fall Highly absorbent Dimensional stability is high
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s ,
Women’s and Kids wear
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YARN DYED STRIPE JERSEY - KNITS
o Fabric is manufactured by weft knitting technique
o Soft twisted are used o Can be single jersey or
pique structureo Classified as auto and
feeder stripero It is manufactured on
circular knitting or flat knitting machine
o Low to medium GSM fabric
o 100% Cotton or blends may be used
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PROPERTIES Low stretchability and high elastic recovery Soft and resilient fabric Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used
for face and back High drapability and good fall Highly absorbent Dimensional stability is high
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s ,
Women’s and Kids wear
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WAFFLE - KNITS
o Fabric is manufactured by weft knitting technique
o Soft twisted are used o Waffle weave is a
reversible, woven knit fabric with a raised geometric texture that looks like honeycomb.
o Can be solid or stripero It is manufactured on
circular knitting or flat knitting machine
o 100% Cotton or blends may be used
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PROPERTIES High stretchability and low elastic recovery Soft and resilient fabric Warmth retention Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for
face and back Good drapability and but poor fall Highly absorbent Dimensional stability is low
USES Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s ,
Women’s and Kids wear
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VELOUR - KNITS
o Fabric is manufactured by weft knitting technique
o Soft twisted are used o Cut or uncut piles are
present on the surface of the fabric
o Velour is a knitted fabric, allowing it to stretch.
o It combines the stretchy properties of knits such as spandex with the rich appearance and feel of velvet
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PROPERTIES High stretchability and elastic recovery Soft and resilient fabric Warmth retention Non reversible fabric Good drapability and fall Dimensional stability is high
USES
Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s , Women’s and Kids wear
Upholstery purpose
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