PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
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Transcript of PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
By Brian Matchett
How do Trees and Shrubs Help Us?
• Provide shade
• Provide wildlife habitat
• Provide food for wildlife
• Provide lumber– Paper– Houses– Warmth
http://www.bunnybass.com/trees/trees_pictures.shtml
Where do I get Trees and Shrubs?
• Purchase from mail order catalogs
– Two main problems with mail order catalogs:
1. You do not see the plant before you buy it2. Plants shipped long distances can be dried out
or damaged
– Always check the reputation of a mail order source for quality and replacement of damaged plants
Where do I get Trees and Shrubs?
• Obtain from wild wooded areas– permission should be obtained before removing any
plants from these areas!
• Purchase plants from a nursery or garden center– they grow their own plants
– you can go out to their field and pick the ones you want
Where do I get Trees and Shrubs?
• Purchase plants from a nursery or garden center (cont.)– plants are already accustomed to the area’s
climate– almost all nurseries will guarantee their plants
Hints for Buying Stock from a Nursery
• Deciduous Shrubs
– select a dense, well-shaped , healthy-looking plant
– a height measurement of 15’-18’ means the plant will grow to be 15’-18’ tall
• Evergreens
– of the spreading variety give spread measurement, not height measurement
– of the upright variety give height measurement
Hints for Buying Stock from a Nursery
Terms:
Specimen - healthy, well-shaped, better-than-
average plant
Caliber - approximate diameter of the trunk
Nursery Plants Come in one of the Four Following Ways
• Balled and Burlapped
• Bare-Root
• Packaged Bare-Root
• Containerhttp://www.pine-lodge.co.uk/nursery.htm
Balled and Burlapped
• Plants are dug with a ball of soil around the root system with a burlap wrapper placed around the ball
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/misc/tree_care/aib372-j.htm
Balled and Burlapped
• Evergreens must always be balled
• Deciduous must be balled when in leaf
• Plants from the woods are usually balled and burlapped
• Always carry the from underneath to keep it from cracking or breaking
Balled and Burlapped Procedure
• Dig a trench around the plant– standard ball size is
1/4 - 1/3 plant height
• Cut underneath the ball
• Roll ball onto piece of burlap; secure burlap with bailing nails and twine
http://www.nm.nrcs.usda.gov/ewp/treepltg.html
Bare-Root
• Plant is removed from the soil salvaging as much of the root as possible
• Biggest problem: roots can dry out in a matter of minutes and kill the plant
Bare-Root
• Cover roots with moist burlap, soil or sawdust to ensure the plant will survive
• Early spring and late fall are best times
• Deciduous plants can use this method when they are out of leaf
Packaged Bare-Root
• Has its root packed in moist sawdust, peat or bark and is wrapped in plastic. This reduces moisture loss.
• Be sure to remove plastic wrap when planting
Container
• Plants come in a pot or some other form of a container
• Many deciduous plants
and evergreens come in
containers
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~ldbapp/bonsai/fig1-history.html
Containers
• Keep soil moist in container until stock is to be planted
• Carefully cut container open when planting stock
• Cut vertically with knife through soil and roots to prevent roots from growing in circular pattern
Prices of Plants will Vary
• Mail order plants seem cheep until postage, handling and freight charges are added in
• Plants may suffer damage from the shipping unless packaged properly which will cost you money!
PLANTING
• Best time to transplant bare-root plants is:
- Latter part of October or early November
- Fall, soil is warm and moisture is sufficient
- Spring moisture is sufficient, but soil is cold
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/hort2/mf402.pdf
PLANTING
• Hard-to-transplant ornamentals should be transplanted in spring to allow longest possible time for root establishment
• All plants do not do well under same soil conditions– Therefore soil tests should be taken
Obtaining Soil for Testing
• Take samples from several different areas of lawn
• Dig out a shovelful of soil about 9-12 inches deep
• Place a thin piece of soil on a piece of paper– After taking several samples throughout an area, mix
them up to get an overall soil test
Testing Soil Sample
• Soils can be analyzed by the county Cooperative Extension office
• Results will tell you what you need to do to improve the condition of your soil
PLANTING
• Dig a hole deep enough so that the roots do not need to be wound around the ball of the hole
• Hole should be 1-2 feet wider than the ball of a “balled” or containered plant
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/urbanforestry/plant_trees/planting_trees.htm
PLANTING
• Bare-root plants should have room for the roots to spread out full length
• Roots grow out to the side as well as down
• When removing plants from container, wet down the soil to prevent crumbling
• Balled and Burlapped plants:– Burlap must be loosened,
but should stay around the ball
– Burlap will rot away with time
• Always take plants out of metal container and plants should be taken out of paper containers
PLANTING
• Keep soil level the same on a plant as it was in the nursery
• Put loose soil in the bottom of the hole
• Manure or peat moss may be used in heavy soils
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/urbanforestry/plant_trees/planting_trees.htm
PLANTING
• Do not stamp soil to firmly
• Leave saucer of earth around edge of hole– This retains water to
allow it to soak in around the plant
• Plant first; then let water hose run slowly for about one to two hours
• Water helps remove any air pockets around the roots
AFTER PLANTING
• Manure, peat moss, etc., can be used to conserve moisture after transplanting
• Fertilizer can be added to a mulch of corn cobs, straw or sawdust to improve bacterial growth
MULCHING
• WHEN MULCH?– Mulch in spring or fall;
BUT, wait until soil is warm in spring
• WHY MULCH?– To conserve moisture
– Prevents runoff and retains moisture
• WHY MULCH?– Protects the soil from
drying due to sun and wind
– Maintains more even soil temperatures
– Provides some nutrients for plant
PRUNING
• One-fourth to one-third of the top branches should be pruned
– This helps compensate for root loss in transplanting
– DO NOT PRUNE the central leader
Transplanting Plants with Foliage
• They will loose their leaves– This does not mean
they are dead– New leaves will
develop later on
• Slight wilting is also common for the first week http://www.hometime.com/projects/howto/lawngrdn/pc2lgtpl.htm
PLANT SPACING• When a plant is bought, it will come with a spacing
guide with three numbers, such as:16’’ – 18’’ – 2’’
- (16’’) tells you how far from a foundation wall to plant the specimen
- (18’’) tells how far apart the plants should be spaced from each other
- (2’’) tells how far the plant should be planted from sidewalks or driveways
STAKING
• When replanted, plant roots are poorly anchored in the soil
• Roots need time to grow and secure plant
• Staking keeps plants straight and protects it from strong winds
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/urbanforestry/plant_trees/planting_trees.htm
STAKING
• Stakes are usually about 8 feet long wooden sticks
• Wire covered by garden hose is used to attach the stake to the tree– Uncovered wire will
damage plant
• If only one stake is used, it should be placed on side with prevailing winds
• Trees with a diameter of 2-4 inches should be double staked
WRAPPING TREES
• Protects them from sun, wind, and insects
• Use either burlap or special tree wrapping crepe or kraft paper
• First wrap large branches and move down the trunk
• Should be left on for two years and can be removed in the following spring
http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/urbanforestry/treestemprotection.htm
WATERING
• Lack of watering during the plant’s first growing season is the major cause of unsatisfactory results of transplanting
• During the 1st growing season, water at a 5-7 day interval
• Water plant slowly and deeply
DEEP WATERING
• Watering plant to the bottom of the roots
• Encourages good root development– Watering only the
surface encourages shallow root development
• Use one or two gallons per square foot of root area
http://newdeal.feri.org/library/a91.htm
CITATIONS
• Pine Lodge Gardens. 2001. http://www.pine-lodge.co.uk/nursery.htm
• Doug Baker's Bonsai. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~ldbapp/bonsai/fig1-history.html
• Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Improper Planting Injures Trees. http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/misc/tree_care/aib372-j.htm
• Backyard Conservation. Tree Planting. http://www.nm.nrcs.usda.gov/ewp/treepltg.html
CITATIONS• Tom Kovach. Plant Your Trees in the Spring. http://www.vpop.net/~selfrel/articles/kovach61.html
• Mary K. Reynolds. Planting Trees in Designed and Built Community Landscapes. http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/urbanforestry/plant_trees/planting_trees.htm
• Benjamin K. Cooper. Tree Stem Protection. December 7, 2000. http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/urbanforestry/treestemprotection.htm
• Hometime Projects. Landscape and Garden: Transplanting Shrubs. 2000. http://www.hometime.com/projects/howto/lawngrdn/pc2lgtpl.htm