Planter Box Plan

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From WoodsmithmagazineAll rights reserved page 1 of 8 2005 August Home Publishing CompaOne copy for personal use. Other copies prohibit

Plans NOWwww . p l a n s n ow . c om

PLANTERBOXESVersatile design lets you build a variety of different box styles. Each has an adjustableshelf to accommodate plants of different sizes.

One of the most interesting thingsabout the design of this planteris its versatility. The basic

planter is a square unit. But you canbuild one thats twice as wide to give ita different look. And by adding one with

longer legs, you can create an attrac-tive set. (The Designers Note-book onthe next page shows you how to buildthese variations.)

ADJUSTABLE SHELF. Another nicething about this planter is its shelf. Itsadjustable, so you can change the heightto fit different-sized potted plants,moving it up or down as needed.

Also, the slats that make up the shelf

WOOD. I built the planter out of red

wood. Its an attractive, straight-grainedwood thats resistant to rot. Other woodthat work well outdoors are western redcedar and northern white cedar. Or youcould build one out of fir or pine, thenpaint it (see the inset photo above).

FINISH.To keep the redwood lookinggood throughout the year, I used a spavarnish and tung oil mixture to finishthe Planter Boxes.

have gaps between them, so rain watercant accumulate in the bottom andharm your plants or the planter.

CONSTRUCTION. Since a planter hasto be strong and stand up to theweather, I used water-resistant plastic

resin glue in the mortise and tenonjoints that connect the legs and rails.The side slats have to be able to

expand and contract with changes inhumidity, so they arent glued in place.Theyre held between the rai ls withtongue and groove joints. Or build a dif-ferent version with raised panel sides.For more on how to do this, see theDesigners Notebook on page 7.


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A

E

B

C

D

CLEAT

SHELF SLAT

RAIL

SIDE SLAT

LEG

EXPLODED VIEW

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

185/8W x 185/8D x 19

1/2H

WOOD

A Item (0) Dimention hereB Item (0) Dimention here

MATERIALS LIST

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

CHANGED PARTS (For mid-height planter)

A Legs (4) 21/4 x 21/4 - 251/2

CHANGED PARTS (For tall planter)A Legs (4) 21/4 x 21/4 - 311/2

MATERIALS LIST

Add a bit of variety to the Planter Box by building it as a double unit, mid-height or tall version.

WOOD (For one square planter)A Legs (4) 21/4 x 21/4 - 191/2B Rails (8) 11/4 x 21/2 - 161/8C Side Slats (16) 3/4 x 31/2 - 11D Shelf Slats (4) 3/4 x 33/4 - 133/4E Cleats (2) 3/4 x 21/2 - 153/4

HARDWARE SUPPLIES

(4) Shelf support pins

(8) No. 8 x 11/4" Fh woodscrews

MATERIALS LIST

18%/8

31!/2

18%/8

25!/2

32%/8

19!/2

DOUBLE UNIT(RECTANGLE)

MID-HEIGHT TALL HEIGHT

TALLLEG

MID-HEIGHT

LEG

LONG RAIL F

ALTERNATE SIZES

To build the Double, Mid-Height, or TallPlanter Boxes simply change the lengthsof the parts as shown. The only new parts

will be the long rails (F) used on theDouble Planter Box.

Note:As with the square Planter Boxlegs, always mark the top of the new legs,then lay out and make measurementsfor all of the mortises from that end(refer to Fig. 2 on page 3).

CHANGED PARTS (For double planter)

B Rails (4) 11/4 x 21/2 - 161/8C Side Slats (24) 3/4 x 31/2 - 11D Shelf Slats (8) 3/4 x 33/4 - 133/4E Cleats (2) 3/4 x 21/2 - 293/4

NEW PARTS (For double planter)F Long Rails (4) 11/4 x 21/2 - 301/8


4/9


CUTTING DIAGRAM

A A A A

B B B B

D D D D E

E

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

C

1x8 ( x 7 ) - 96 REDWOOD (5.3 Bd. Ft.)#/4 !/4

1x6 ( x 5 ) - 72 REDWOOD (3 Bd. Ft.)#/4 !/2

2x4 (1 x 3 ) - 72 REDWOOD (Two Boards @ 4 Bd. Ft. Each)!/2 !/2

4x4 (3 x 3 ) - 96 REDWOOD (10.6 Bd. Ft.)!/2 !/2

leg 2" longer than the finished length toallow for some checking on the ends ofthe 4x4 posts.

Next, I put the wood aside for a fewdays. (Dont be tempted to put it out inthe sun, or hurry the process thatllcreate more problems.)

Then after the posts had dried, Itrimmed them again, this time to finaldimensions. To make the pieces asstraight as possible, youll need to estab-lish two flat sides that form a 90 angle.

SQUARE, FLAT SIDES. Begin by placingthe flattest side of each piece against therip fence. Now trim a narrow strip off theopposite side A (Step 1 in Fig. 1).

Note:Because the posts are too thickto cut all the way through in one pass,youll have to turn the workpiece end forend and finish trimming the first stripwith a second pass.

Next, to cut side B, position side Adown on the table and rip off anothernarrow strip, again in two passes (Step 2in Fig. 1). Sides A and B should nowbe flat and 90 to each other.

CUT TO FINISHED SIZE. Now youreready to cut the leg (A) to finished thick-ness. To do this, set the rip fence 21/4"from the blade. Then, with side Aagainst the fence, rip a strip from sideC (Step 3 in Fig. 1).

Make a final pass with side B againstthe fence (Step 4 in Fig. 1).

With the blanks cut square, trim thelegs to finished length (Fig. 2).

LAY OUT AND CUT MORTISES. Now lay

out the locations of four mortises on eachleg (Fig. 2). The mortises are on theinside faces of each leg and are laid outexactly the same.

Note: To make it easier to keepthings straight, mark the top of each legand make all your measurements fromthat end (Fig. 2).

Next, use the drill press to bore outthe mortises. Then square the ends andclean up the sides with a chisel.

DECORATIVE CUTS.After cleaning upthe mortises I made a series of decora-tive cuts on the legs. Begin by cutting a3

/8" dado (slot) around all four sides atthe top ends of the legs (Fig. 3).To make this continuous dado, first

set your dado blade to cut1/4" deep. Thenposition the rip fence 11/8" from the blade(Fig. 3a).

Note: Using an auxiliary fence onyour miter gauge will give you bettercontrol of the leg, and also preventchipout as you cut the dadoes (Fig. 3).

A

A

B

AC

B

A

D

C

B

RIP FENCE4x4 POST

FLATTESTSIDE

3!/2

2&/8

2&/8

2&/8

2!/4

2&/8

2!/4

2!/4

SAW BLADE

1

2

3

4

1 ALEG MARK

TOP END

2#/4

2

%/8

!/2

11

19!/2

2

2!/4

2!/4

NOTE:DRILL

1 -DEEPMORTISES

!/16"

2

LEGS

When I bought the posts for the legs, Ilearned something about redwood 4x4posts are rarely kiln dried. So theres avery good chance yours will still be wet.This means youll have to do a few thingsdifferently before working with them.

WET REDWOOD. Working with ver ywet wood can be a real problem. So toavoid having the 4x4 posts twist or bendas they dried out, I dealt with the postsin three stages.

First, to speed up the drying time, Itrimmed an equal amount of dry woodoff all four faces. Then I rough cut each


5/9


With the end of the leg butted to thefence, you can now cut the dadoes on allfour sides of each leg.

STOPPED CHAMFER.The next step is toadd the decorative stopped chamfers onthe outside corner of each leg (Fig. 4).

Note: The outside corner is thecorner that is formed by the sideswithout mortises.

You could rout this chamfer with ahandheld router. But since I was goingto chamfer the top and bottom of thelegs on the router table, I cut this stoppedchamfer there, too.

Start by setting the height of thechamfer bit so its 5/16" above the routertable (Fig. 5a). Then align the face ofthe fence so its flush with the bearing onthe bit.

To indicate the extremes of thestopped chamfer, I made two marks oneach leg. The start line mark (5" fromthe top end) indicates where to plungethe leg to start the chamfer. The stopline mark (151/2" from the top) indicatesthe stopping point. Then I made a refer-ence mark on the router fence to indicatethe centerpoint of the router bit.

Now turn on the router, and with apivoting motion, plunge the leg againstthe fence so the start line on the leg linesup with the mark on the fence (Fig. 5).Then slide the leg to the left. When thestop line on the leg lines up with the ref-erence mark on the fence, stop and pivotthe leg away from the fence (Fig. 6).

TOP CHAMFERS. Once the corner

chamfers are completed, you can cut thechamfers on the top end of each leg. Thisis also a5/16"-wide chamfer so you donthave to change the router bit(Fig. 7a).

To make cutting the chamfers moreaccurate, I used a square piece of 3/4"-thick plywood as a push block (Fig. 7).The push block keeps the legs square tothe router table fence, and helps preventchipout on the back edge of the cut.

Now cut the chamfers on the top ofeach leg, holding the leg firmly to boththe router table fence and the plywoodpush block. Again, feed the leg from right

to left to cut the chamfer(Fig. 7).BOTTOM CHAMFERS. To prevent thelegs from splintering when the planterbox is dragged across the ground, Irouted smaller chamfers on the bottomends of the legs. To do this, set the heightof the router bit to 3/16" (Fig. 7a). Thenrout the leg bottoms just as you did thetops.

AUXILIARY FENCE#/8" DADO

BLADE

ALEG

3

CHAMFEROUTSIDECORNER

ONLY

INSIDECORNER

STOPPEDCHAMFER

10!/2

5

4

MARK CENTER POINT OFCHAMFER BIT ON FENCE

STOPLINE

STARTLINE

PIVOT LEGINTO BIT

ROUTER TABLE5

STOPLINE

STARTLINE

PIVOT LEG AWAY WHENREFERENCE MARKS ALIGN

FEED DIRECTION

6

#/4" -THICKPLYWOOD

PUSH BLOCK

CHAMFERBIT

LEG

A

7

LEG

1!/8 #/8

!/4A

a.

%/16

FENCELEG

CHAMFERBIT

CROSS SECTION

A

a.

LEGTOP

LEGBOTTOM

%/16

#/16

a.


6/9


SIDES

Once the legs are complete, you can startwork on the sides. Each side consists oftwo rails and four slats held in place withtongue and groove joints.

RAILS. I started by resawing to 11/4"thick, enough 2x4 stock for the rails (B).Then cut eight rails to final width and

length (Fig. 8).TENONS.The rails have a tenon on

each end to fit the mortises in the legs.To set up the saw, position the rip fenceas a stop so the outside edge of a dadoblade is 1" from the fence (Fig. 9a).

To create a centered tenon, first usea piece of scrap rail stock and sneak upon the final thickness of the tenon untilit just fits the mortise. Then the tenonscan be cut on the rails by making a seriesof passes over the dado blade.

The shoulders for the tenon can becut by resetting the height of the dado

blade to 1/4". Then stand the workpiece onedge and make a series of passes overeach edge of the rail top and bottom.

TONGUES. Once the tenons are cuton the rails, the saw can be set up to cuta tongue along one edge. This tongueholds the slats in place (Fig. 10a). The1/4"-thick tongue is off-center on thethickness of the rail its set back 5/8"from the face.

To make the tongue, use a wood aux-iliary fence to bury the dado blade,exposing only1/4" of the blade (Fig. 11).Then raise the blade 5/8" above the table.

Now, with the face side of the rail down,cut one side of the tongue (Step 1 in Fig.11). Then, lower the blade and cut theother side (Step 2 in Fig. 11).

CHAMFER THE RAILS.The last step inmaking the rails is to chamfer three ofthe four edges (not the edge closest tothe tongue). Chamfer the otheredge onthe tongue side with the fence set back1/4" from the bit(Step 1 in Fig. 12). Forthe remaining edges, align the bearingflush with the fence (Step 2 in Fig. 12).

SLATS.After the tongued rails are com-plete, the slats (C) can be made to fitbetween the rails (Fig. 10). (There arefour slats on each side.)

To determine the width of each slat,measure the shoulder-to-shoulder lengthof a rail (141/8") and subtract1/8" to allowfor expansion. Then divide by four. Myslats were 31/2" wide (Fig. 13).

Now cut them to length to equal thedistance between the mortises on thelegs. (Mine were 11" long.)

CUT TENONSTO FIT MORTISES

1!/4

LEGINSIDE

CORNERB

9 10

1 2AUXILIARY

FENCEFACESIDE

DOWN

!/4" !/4"xOFFSET TONGUE

#/8%/8

!/411

FENCE

SET BIT FROMFENCE TO CHAMFER

THIS EDGE

!/4"SET BIT FLUSHWITH FENCETO CHAMFERTHESE EDGES

DONT CHAMFERINSIDE EDGE

FACE SIDE DOWN

!/4

#/16

1 212

B

RAIL

NOTE: RAILS ARE RESAWN 1 THICK!/4"

14!/8

16!/8

!/4" !/4"x OFFSETTONGUE

(SEE FIG. 11)2!/2

!/4

2

!/4

8

C

SLAT

NOTE:CUT A TOTALOF 16 SLATS

11

3!/2

13

CENTER TENONSON RAILS

FENCE

!/2

RAIL

1!/4

1a.

RAIL

OFF-CENTER TONGUEHOLDS SLATS IN PLACE

B

SLAT

C

a.

SLAT

#/16

#/8

!/4

%/16

C

a.


7/9


GROOVE THE SLATS.With the slats cutto size, you can now add an offset groovein the ends to fit the tongues on the rails(Figs. 13 and 13a).

CHAMFER.To complete the side slats,chamfer all four edges on the face side.

PIN HOLES. Next, I laid out and drilled1/4" holes on each leg for pin supports.

The pins support an adjustable shelf(refer to Fig. 17). To position the holes,stand the legs up and mark the insidecorner so the sets of holes will face eachother (that is, mirrored sets). Then drill1/2"-deep holes (Fig. 14).

ASSEMBLE SIDES. The easiest way toassemble the planter is to first puttogether two of the side units, then con-nect these by adding rails and slats forthe other sides.

Begin by applying glue to the tenonson the ends of two rails, and in the mor-tises in one leg. Insert the tenons,

making certain the tongues on the railsface each other.

Next, slide (but dont glue) the slatsonto the tongues of the rails. (The slatsneed room to move with changes inhumidity.) Then apply glue to the other

two tenons and to the mortises ofanother leg, and fit the pieces together.

Next, clamp the side assembly togetherusing two pipe clamps (Fig. 15). Lay theassembly on the pipe clamps with theinside facing up. This way the clamp pres-sure will be centered directly on the mor-tise and tenon joints (Fig. 15). Now, put

together another side the same way.ASSEMBLE THE PLANTER. Finish assem-

bling the planter by connecting the twocompleted side units with the remainingrails and slats.

ADJUSTABLE SHELF

After completing the sides, work canbegin on the adjustable shelf. It consistsof four slats and two cleats (Fig. 16).

CLEATS. Cut the cleats (E) to a widthof 21/2". To determine the length of thecleats (E), measure the distance on the

inside of the planter from side slat to sideslat and subtract3/8" for clearance. (Thismade my cleats 153/4" long.)

SLATS. Next, cut the shelf slats (D). Toallow water to run off between the slats,I left1/4" gaps between each one (Fig.

16).So, to determine the width of each

slat, subtract3/4" from the length of thecleat (for the three 1/4" gaps). Then dividethis measurement by four (for the fourslats). In my case, this made each slat33/4" wide (Fig. 16).

To determine the length of the slats,

I measured from the drilled side of onepost to the drilled side of the oppositepost and subtracted 3/8" for easy clear-ance. (Mine were 133/4" long.)

ASSEMBLY. I completed the shelfassembly by screwing the cleats to theshelf slats. The screws go through thecleats and are centered on the width ofeach slat(Fig. 16a).

To put the shelf in place, tip one enddown into the planter. Then set the endsof the cleats on the shelf pins and simplyallow the other end of the shelf to dropinto place (Fig. 17).

FINISH. To finish the planter, I usedan equal mixture of spar varnish andtung oil. It seals the wood and darkens itonly slightly so the deep red tones of theredwood remain visible. It also builds upa soft sheen after two coats.

LAY OUT HOLESFOR PIN SUPPORTS

SET COMBINATIONSQUARE AT !/2"

2!/22!/27!/2

14

E

D

SHELF SLATS

2!/2

CLEAT

15#/4

13#/4!/4

3#/4

16

SHELF CLEATRESTS ON

PIN

17

CENTER CLAMP

PRESSURE OVERMORTISE ANDTENON JOINTS

NOTE:ASSEMBLE OPPOSITE

SIDES FIRST

15

LEG INSIDECORNER

!/4"!/2"-DIA. HOLE,

DEEP

!/2

a.

CLEAT

SLAT

#8 x 1 FhWOODSCREW

!/4"

E

a.


8/9


The addition of raised panels definitely dresses up the look of the Planter Box sides. The panels lend amore sophisticated style to the boxes without interfering with their flexible design.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

18%/8 32%/8

19!/2

SINGLE UNIT(SQUARE)

DOUBLE UNIT(RECTANGLE)

1

The Raised Panel Planter Boxesdescribed here are built using the stan-dard height legs (Fig. 1). Each plantercan be built with the middle or tall heightlegs if desired. Refer to the DesignersNotebook on page 2 for ideas on howthis can be done. Begin by squaring up and cutting thelegs (A) to length as before.Then lay out and cut the mor tises forthe rails (Fig. 2).To simplify construction, I decided torout a groove in the legs and add a spline(K) to the groove. The spline, in effect,

becomes a tongue on the leg, which willmatch the size and position of the tongueson the rails (B) (refer to Fig. 4).To add the 1/4"-deep groove to the legs,set up a 1/4" straight bit in a table-mounted router. Then position the fenceto align the bit with the inside edge of themortise (Figs. 2 and 3). After the fence has been set to routthe groove, youll need to lower the work-piece over the bit starting the cut insidethe upper leg mortise. Then rout alongthe fence, stopping when you reach theopposite mortise (Fig. 3).Once the groove has been added, routthe decorative cuts and chamfers.The next step is to rip a1/4"-thick, 1/2"-wide piece of stock for the spline. Thencut the splines to length (mine were 11")and glue them in place in the groovescentered between the mortises (Fig. 4).When youve completed the legs, ripand crosscut the rails (B) to size addingthe tenons, tongues, and chamfers.

FRAME&PANELSIDES

Now work can begin on the raisedpanels (J). First, glue up the blanks from3/4"-thick stock (Fig. 5).To size the panels, I first measured theframe opening, then subtracted 1/8" toallow for expansion. (My panels were107/8" wide and 14" long.) Once the gluehas fully dried, the edges on each of theblanks can be beveled to create theraised panels.

To do this, attach an 8"-tall auxiliaryfence to the rip fence and tilt the tablesaw blade to 5. Then raise the saw bladeto a height of 11/2" (Figs. 6 and 7). Begin by cutting the bevels on the endgrain edges first. This way any chipoutthat may occur will be removed whenthe face grain edges are cut. Make the cut in two passes, movingthe rip fence slightly between passes.

NEW PARTS FOR SINGLE UNIT

J Single Panels (4) 3/4 x 107/8 - 14K Splines (8) 1/2 x 3/4 - 11

NEW PARTS FOR DOUBLE UNIT

J Single Panels (2) 3/4 x 107/8 - 14K Splines (8) 1/2 x 3/4 - 11L Double Panels (2) 3/4 x 107/8 - 28

Note: Do not need part C.

MATERIALS LIST


9/9


NOTE: ALIGN BIT WITH INSIDEEDGE OF MORTISE

LOWER LEG MORTISE ON TO BIT,ROUT ALONG FENCE, STOP AT

OPPOSITE MORTISE

ROUT A " GROOVE," DEEP!/4

!/4

GLUE INTOGROOVE

CUT TOFIT BETWEEN

RAILS

!/2

RAIL

LEG

SPLINE

B

A

K

ALEG

MARKTOP END

2#/4

2

%/8

11

19!/2

2

2!/4

2!/4

NOTE:

1 DEEP!/16"ALL MORTISES

!/2

ROUT "GROOVES,

" DEEPBETWEENMORTISES

!/4

!/4

INSIDECORNER

2

4

3

10&/8

14 28

NOTE: SEE FIG. 6 FOR EDGE DETAIL

SINGLEPANEL

J L DOUBLE PANEL

5

NOTE:TILT BLADE 5

NOTE: ATTACH AN8"-TALL PLYWOODFENCE TO RIP FENCE

PANEL

!/2

1!/2

7

(CROSS SECTION)PANEL GROOVE DETAIL

!/4

!/8

!/2#/4

!/8" SHOULDER

1!/2

#/16

NOTE: TOP GROOVESHOULD BE " DEEP%/16

5 BEVELPANEL

86The idea is to remove most of thewaste on the first pass, then to removeany burn or swirl marks that mightremain with the second pass.

Note:Cut the bevels on allfour edgesofallof the panels before moving therip fence to make the second pass. If needed, use a sanding block with abeveled edge to finish sand the sawmarks and the undercut shoulders. Then, I use a1/4" straight bit in therouter table to rout the centered groovesalong the edges of the panel to fit over therail and leg tongues (Fig. 6). The topgroove on each panel is 5/16" deep, whilethe side and bottom grooves are 3/16"deep (Figs. 8a and 8b). This will allow forexpansion, while spacing the panel evenlywithin the frame. Finally, its best to assemble oppositesides first, then connect them by addingrails and panels for the other sides. Adda bead of silicone caulk in the top grooveswhen adding the panels (but no glue).

TOPGROOVE,

" DEEP%/16

B RAIL

a.

BOTTOM ANDSIDE GROOVES,

" DEEP#/16

b.

Planter Box Plan

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