Plans N O Ww w w . P l a n s N O W. c o m

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sliding-door

Pegboard Cabinet

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F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

MaterialsCaseA Top/Bottom (2) 3/4 x 43/4 - 801/4B Sides (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 397/8C Dividers (2) 3/4 x 31/2 - 37 5/8D Case Back (1) 385/8 x 801/4 - 1/4 PegboardE Back Cleats (2) 3/4 x 31/2 - 801/4F Face Frame Rails (2) 3/4 x 11/2 - 773/4G Face Frame Stiles (2) 3/4 x 11/2 - 397/8H Side Shelves (6) 3/4 x 31/2 - 213/4I Center Shelves (3) 3/4 x 31/2 - 341/4

DoorsJ Door Stiles (4) 3/4 x 21/2 - 37K Door Rails (4) 3/4 x 23/4 - 18L Door Panels (2) 18 x 32 - 1/4 PegboardM Side Door Stops (2) 3/4 x 3/4 - 213/4N Center Door Stop (1) 3/4 x 3/4 - 341/4

Bin RackO Top/Bottom (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 793/4P Ends (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 51/2Q Dividers (15) 3/4 x 51/2 - 41/2R Stops (16) 1/2 x 41/4 - 1/4 Pegboard S Spacer (1) 3/4 x 1 - 791/4

Hardware• (46) #8 x 11/2" Fh Woodscrews• (16) #8 x 5/8" Fh Woodscrews• (4) Sliding Screen Door Rollers w/screws• (1) 1/8" x 3/4" Aluminum Bar (791/4" long)• (2) 4" Drawer Pulls w/Screws• (36) Shelf Pins• (4) #8 x 1" Rh Woodscrews• (4) 1"-dia. Fender Washers • (10) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews• (16) 41/8" x 53/8" Plastic Storage Bins

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Case ————————————————————————————————————————

a.

b.

F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

One of the objections to pegboardthat I hear over and over again is thatit doesn’t hold very many tools forthe amount of wall space that it takesup. But this pegboard storageproject is different. Instead of just aflat pegboard panel mounted to thewall, this project is a shallow cabinet.The back of the cabinet is made withpegboard for hanging tools. But infront of this are shelves and a couple

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of sliding pegboard doors. So youend up with nearly double theamount of storage area withouttaking up any additional wall space.

Case – To build the cabinet, Istarted with the case. The mainparts of the case — the top,bottom, and sides — are all cutfrom 1x6’s. If you take a look atFigure 1b, you’ll notice that the sidesare wider than the top and bottom of

the case. This has to do with how thepegboard back and cleats areattached to the case. (I’ll explainmore about that later.) For now,just cut the pieces to the dimen-sions shown. Then you can cut therabbets and dadoes in the sidesthat will hold the top and bottom ofthe case (Figures 1 and 1a).

The pegboard panel that willserve as the back of the case fits intoa rabbeted opening. But in order tocreate some clearance behind thepegboard for the pegboard hooks,the back is set in about 3/4" from thewall. To do this, you’ll need to makethe rabbets on the sides of the casewider than the rabbets on the casetop and bottom. Take a look atFigures 1b, 1c, and 1d to see whatI’m talking about.

Before you can assemble the case,there are a few details to take care of.First, I drilled some holes on theinside face of the case sides for someshelf pins. Then I cut a kerf near thefront edge of the case bottom for apiece of aluminum that will be addedlater (Figure 1d). This will serve asthe “track” for the sliding door.

FIGURE1

c.

d.

b.a.

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3Finally, I drilled some counter-sunk screw holes in the case top andbottom for the screws that will beused to attach the sides and dividersof the case. It’s easier to drill theseholes on a drill press now, beforeassembling the case.

Assembly – The case is assem-bled with glue and some screws.Just make sure to keep the frontedges of the top, bottom, and sidesof the case flush as you clampeverything together.

Dividers – With the outer frameof the case complete, you can nowadd a couple of dividers. These areripped to width and then cut to fitbetween the top and bottom of thecase. But before they’re glued andscrewed into place, a double row ofshelf pin holes is drilled in eachdivider, just as you see in Figure 1.

Back & Cleats – The back isjust a piece of 1/4" pegboard, cut tofit in the rabbeted opening in theback of the frame. It gets held inplace with a few screws. Then apair of cleats are screwed to theback of the case over the pegboard— one at the top and one at thebottom. These help strengthen thecabinet as well as provide supportwhen screwing it to the wall.

With the back in place, I cut a stripof aluminum to fit in the kerf in thebottom of the case. My aluminum

Buying Pegboard Pegboard (also called perf-board) is really nothing morethan hardboard with holesdrilled in it. But all pegboardisn’t created equal. (Somethingyou’ll quickly discover when youstart shopping for it.)

Thickness – You can find peg-board in 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" thick-nesses. Both the 3/16" and 1/4" peg-board have 1/4"-dia. holes, but thethicker pegboard will be muchstronger, making it a betterchoice for shop projects like thestorage cabinet.

{ SShheellff PPiinnss.. Removable shelfpins are used to support theadjustable shelves inside thepegboard storage cabinet.

F E A T U R E P R O J E C T

a.

b.

FIGURE

strip fit snug in the kerf, but if yoursis a little loose, you may want to usesome epoxy to hold it in place.

Face Frame – The last two stepsto complete the case are to add theface frame and shelves. These areboth about as straightforward as

could be. The rails and stiles for theface frame are simply cut to size andglued in place to the front edges ofthe case. Then the shelves are cut towidth and length. If you take a lookat Figure 3, you’ll notice that thereare two different shelf lengths.

In addition to different thick-nesses, there are also differentgrades of pegboard. I preferservice-tempered pegboard. It’sharder and more durable thanstandard pegboard. The onlytrouble is finding it — you mayhave to go to a lumberyardor have it ordered.

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Sliding Doors ——

5

a.

The sliding doors are what reallymake this cabinet special. Instead ofsimply sliding in a groove, thesedoors glide on roller mechanisms.Mounted into the bottom edge ofeach door are two sliding screendoor rollers (see lower inset photo atright). These rollers work sosmoothly that you can roll the doorsalong the track with one finger, evenwhen they’re loaded up with tools.

Each door is just a wood framewith a pegboard panel, as you cansee in Figure 4. So I started by cut-ting the door rails and stiles to size.

The rollers fit into a deep groovethat is cut in the bottom edge of thelower door rail before the door isassembled (Figure 4b). You’ll alsoneed to cut a shallow groove in theend of each door stile to allow thedoor to clear the aluminum track.Then you can glue up the doorsand install the rollers.

Door Stops – Before you caninstall the doors in the case, thereare a couple of details to take care of.To support the top of each door, I

4 FIGURE

added some door stops to the insideof the case (Figure 5). To make surethat the doors would have plenty ofclearance, I positioned the stops 1"away from the face frame. This cre-ates a channel to help guide the door.

Washers – To keep the doorsfrom rattling inside the case, Iattached a couple of 1"-dia. fenderwashers to the top edge of each door,like you see in the top inset photoabove. But I didn’t tighten thescrews all the way down. This allowsthe washers to spin freely, so they actas roller bearings inside the channel.

After adding a handle to eachdoor, all you have to do is slip thedoors into the channel and over thealuminum track, see photo above.

{ WWaasshheerr.. Looselymounted fender wash-ers serve as bearingsat the top of the door.

{ RRoolllleerrss.. Screen doorrollers allow the peg-board doors to glideeffortlessly on the track.

a.

b.

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The pegboard storage cabinetis great for tools and supplies.

But if you want to get even moreuse out of the cabinet, you can buildthis optional hardware bin.Mounted to the underside of thecabinet, the bin rack is just a seriesof cubby holes that are sized tohold plastic storage bins.

To make the bin rack, start bycutting the top and bottom to size.Then cut a series of evenly spaceddadoes on the inside face of eachpiece to hold the dividers (seedetail ‘a’). The ends of the binrack are rabbeted to hold the topand bottom. And the dividers arecut to fit in the dadoes.

Before assembling the rack, I cuta kerf near the back edge of thebottom for some hardboard stopsthat will be added later. (The loca-tion of this kerf will depend on thesize of the plastic storage bins thatyou’re going to be using.)

Stops – Once the rack isassembled, you can cut some binstops out of 1/4" pegboard and

Hardware Storage. This optional storageunit mounts to the bottom of the cabinet andholds up to sixteen plastic hardware storage bins.

glue them into the kerf all alongthe back of the rack.

Before you can mount the binrack to the storage cabinet, you’llneed to add a strip of wood to thetop of the rack to act as a spacerbetween the rack and the recessedbottom of the cabinet. Once this isdone, the rack can be attached tothe cabinet with woodscrews.

Optional

HardwareBin Rack

a.

b.

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Cutting Diagram ®

PegboardStorage Cabinet

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MaterialsCaseA Top/Bottom (2) 3/4 x 43/4 - 801/4B Sides (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 397/8C Dividers (2) 3/4 x 31/2 - 375/8D Case Back (1) 385/8 x 801/4 - 1/4 PegboardE Back Cleats (2) 3/4 x 31/2 - 801/4F Face Frame Rails (2) 3/4 x 11/2 - 773/4G Face Frame Stiles (2) 3/4 x 11/2 - 397/8H Side Shelves (6) 3/4 x 31/2 - 213/4

I Center Shelves (2) 3/4 x 31/2 - 341/4

DoorsJ Door Stiles (4) 3/4 x 21/2 - 37K Door Rails (4) 3/4 x 23/4 - 18L Door Panels (2) 18 x 32 - 1/4 PegboardM Side Door Stops (2) 3/4 x 3/4 - 213/4

N Center Door Stop (1) 3/4 x 3/4 - 341/4

Bin RackO Top/Bottom (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 793/4

P Ends (2) 3/4 x 51/2 - 51/2

Q Dividers (15) 3/4 x 51/2 - 41/2

R Stops (16) 1/2 x 41/4 - 1/4 Pegboard S Spacer (1) 3/4 x 1 - 791/4

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