Pigmenti kdkkfjPerlescenti

8/18/2019 Pigmenti kdkkfjPerlescenti

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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:

Special Effects!

Elena Nunno

Account Manager Cosmetic

Merck KGAA


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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Perlescent Pigments: daily used….


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Perlescent Pigments: daily used….


4/61Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Cosmetic Colorants

Dyes (Colorants)Soluble in the application medium;

transparent

Color PigmentsInsoluble in the application medium;

opaque

D&CRed#21

D&CRed#27

D&COrange#5



Color Pigments

Pearl pigments

Color PigmentsInsoluble in the application medium;

opaque

Al/Ba/Ca LakesFD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (CI 19140:1)D&C Red 27 Al Lake (CI 45410:2)

D&C Orange 5 Al Lake (CI 45370:2)

D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (CI 15858:2)

D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850:1)

Colorants

D&C Red 36 (CI 12085)

D&C Orange #17 (CI 12075)

D&C RED#30 (CI73360)

Inorganics Pigments

Colored WhiteIron Oxides Titanium DioxideChromium Dioxide Zinc Oxide

UltramarinesManganese VioletFerric Ferrocyanide


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optical effects

Perlescent Pigments pearl effect results from:

reflection, refraction,

interference, transmission

Metallic Colors: silver E174gold E175

metallic gloss (mirror effect)caused by total reflection

of light in a certain angle

Absorption Colors:

titanium dioxide E171

iron oxide E172

carbon black E153

insoluble color lakes

light absorption and

undirected reflection

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®

Color Pigments: Interactions with Light




Perlescent Pigments: Composition andCharacteristics

Composition

Particle size

Thickness

- transparent and inert color carrier

- metal oxides like titanium dioxide and/or ironoxides

- e.g. plus organic/inorganic colorants

- 5 - 200 µm diameter

- approx. 0.1 - 0.5 µm (crude silicate)


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Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets

Substrate: Mica (SiO2-Flakes, Ca-Al-Borosilicate-Flakes, Al2O3-Flakes,

Synthetic Mica)

Inorganic coating: Titanium Dioxide

Iron Oxides

Chromium Oxide

Organic coating: Carmine

Ferric Ferrocyanide

Metal oxide

substrate

Characteristics of Pearl Pigments


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Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)

Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins

layers of a natural pearl

CaCO3

Proteins

Incident Light


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To obtain the pearl effect:

- Semi transparent material

- Smooth and plane surface

- Refractive index different from the medium

- Light!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)


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soap bubble

air: n = 1

air: n = 1

water „layer“, stabilized by tensides

n = 1.3

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)


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Pearlescent Luster

Multiple reflection

Pearl like effect

Incident light

Transmitted light

Metal oxide layer Substrate


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SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments

potassium aluminium silicate/

mica (E555)

titanium dioxide (E171)

and/or iron oxide (E172)


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Substrates

Mica Silica Alumina Glass

Classic/wide use

Hiding power Sparkle

Performance

Color

TravelTransparency

Gloss

Natural Synthetic

Transparency

Synthetic

Mica


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Muscovite Mica

Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing


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natural silicate,

mica (E555)

classification

TiO2 /Fe2O3

precipitation washing/filtration

drying

milling

high temperatures

calcination

→ particle size:


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Effect versus Particle Size

M F N S L

Particle Size Effect Example

M 1-15 µm satin gloss

F 5-20 µm silky glossTimiron Supersheen MP-1001

N 10-50 µm brilliant shine Timiron Starluster MP-115

S 10-130 µm sparkle effectL 40-200 µm glittering Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149

Selecting the right particle size


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Selecting the right particle size

small (25 µm)

medium (60 µm)

large (150 µm)

Color coverageParticle size

satiny very good

brilliant good

glittering low

Pearl effect

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!


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Effect versus Particle Size

Small particles (


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40-60 nm 60-80 nm 80-100 nm 100-140 nm 120-160 nm

Silver

mica

TiO2

Gold

mica

TiO2

Green

mica

TiO2

Blue

mica

TiO2

Red

mica

TiO2

Name Particle sizeGloss effect and coverage

in formulation and applicationInterference color

Gamme Timiron Silk 5 - 25 µmsilky luster

medium hiding power Gold, Red, Blue, Green

Timiron Splendid Blue;Gold

10 - 60 µmpearl luster

medium hiding power Gold, Copper, Red, Violet, Blue, Green

Gamme Timiron Starlight 10 - 125 µmshimmering luster

low hiding power Gold, Red, Blue, Green

Interference Pigments (I)


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Silver Red Green

mica

TiO2-

coating

d2

d1

d2 > d1

• variation of the „optical path

length “ (d ·n2)

• change of the reflected wavelength

• different interference pearl colors

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®

Yellow Blu


Interference Pigments (II)

f ( )


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„silver“ gold red blue green II green III

„white light“

TiO2

reaction time

Interference Pigments (III)

M t lli Pi t


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Metallic Pigments

MicaMicaMicaMicaMica

Fe2O3Fe2O3

Fe2O3 Fe2O3

Metallic Color Luster PigmentsBronze Copper Red Red-VioletRed-Green

Fe2O3

Specific color due to coating material & coating thickness

Colorona Copper


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Color Pigments

Mica

TiO2Fe2O3

Mica

TiO2

Carmine

Mica

TiO2

Iron Blue

TiO2

Cr 2O3

Mica

Color Luster Pigments

Colorona Precious

GoldColorona Carmine Red Colorona Dark Blue Colorona Majestic Green

S b t t


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Substrates

Mica Silica Alumina Glass BiOCl

Classic/wide use

Hiding power Sparkle

Performance

Color

Travel TransparencyGloss Skin feelCompressibility

natural synthetic

Transparency

Synthetic

Mica

S t ti S b t t


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Syntetic Substrates

Al2O3 flakes

Ca-Al-Borosilicate flakes

SiO2 flakes

Synthetic Fluorphogopite

Benefits:

Substrate is produced synthetically

Precise control of the substrate properties

Substrate

Metal oxide

Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments


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Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments

Al2O3

Metal oxide

Al2O3 flakes Al2O3 flakes coated with metal oxide

SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments


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SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments

Metal oxide

SiO2

SiO2 Flakes SiO2 Flake coated with metal oxide

Xirona® Caribbean Blue

Properties of SiO2 Flake Substrate


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A color trave l e ffec t is v is ib le only by chang ing th e

view ing an gle!

SiO 2 f lake

meta l ox ide

pand SiO2 based Pigments

SiO2 based Pigments

Improved color purity

Color travel properties (angle-dependent)

Uniform and precisely controllable substrate thickness

Smooth and regular surface

Transparent without masstone

Own interference color

Improved light reflection and refraction

Ca-Al-Borosilicate Substrate


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Ca Al Borosilicate Substrate

Properties of Ca-Al-Borosilicateb d Pi t


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based Pigments

Nice skin

feeling

Very high

Transparency

Pure and

Full colors

High brilliance

High gloss

Multi-color

effect

< 1 µm

Ca-Al-Borosilicate-flake

Protective layer

Metal oxide layer 20 – 200 µm

RONASTAR NOBLE

SPARKS

Synthetic Mica Substrate


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Chemical composition – Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

– TiO2

– SnO2

Particle size – 20.0 – 180.0 µm (80% in range)

Extraordinary brilliant sparkle

Clean white masstone

Balanced transparency/coverageSurprisingly good skin feel

High metallic luster

Synthetic Mica Substrate

TIMIRON ICE CRYSTAL;

TIMIRON SYNWHITE 40

Possible Combinations of Pigments


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Possible Combinations of Pigments

pure pigment

on a black background

pigment mixture

exception:complementary

interference pigments

plus colorants (in-org.or org. dye or pigment)

Interference pigments

Silverwhite pigments

Gold pigments

Color Luster pigments

Color Travel pigments

Color Mixing Rules


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Absorption pigments = subtractive color mix

yellow + blue = green

Interference pigments = additive color mix

yellow + blue = white

Color Mixing Rules ...

In case of interference pigments, consider color mixing rules (no subtractive mixing, but additive

mixing!)

Influence of Various Amounts of AbsorptionPigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect


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Pigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect

a m o u n t

o f a b

s o r p t i o

n p i g m

e n t s

absorption-dull effect

pearlescent-shine effect


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Influence of the Product Surface


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incoming lightreflected light

pigment platelets

smooth product surfacerough product surface

incoming lightreflected light


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Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics


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Color cosmetics Care products

Target group Limited to women & girls Male and female population

Buying intention

Additional / luxurious product /Sense of fashion

Relation between color shade

and buying intention

Necessity / personal hygiene

Styling and indulgence



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Smaller variety of different product categories

Limited coloring potential

Long lasting

Less dependent on fashion trends

Invisible / hardly visible on the skin

Large variety of different productcategories

Big color range in each category

Short duration (seasonal look)

Dependent on fashion trends

Long visibility after application

Care productsColor cosmetics

Pearl Luster PigmentsBasic Rules for Formulating


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Basic Rules for Formulating

Use the most transparent formulation possible

The less opacity the formulation has, the better the pearlescent effect;

therefore, lower pigment concentrations are needed. Opaque formulations

require higher pigment levels, because light scattering decreases

pearlescence.

Avoid grinding and milling of pearlescent pigments

If mechanical stress onto the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might

break or the metal oxide layer might be removed from the substrate, resultingin loss of luster and color change.

Consider color-mixing rules in case of interference pigments

Absorption pigments mix subtractively, because the visible color is the non-

absorbed portion of light. Interference pigments mix additively, because thevisible color is the reflected portion of light.

Color (decorative) Cosmetics: Main Segments


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Eyes (e.g. eyeshadows, eyeliners, mascara...)

Lips (e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss,...)

Nails (e.g. nail lacquers)

Hair (e.g. styling mousse, hair wax, styling gels …)

Face (e.g. foundations, concealers, blushers,…)

Personal Care: Main Segments


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Skin care (e.g. moisturizers, lotions, creams, oils, gels,…)

Hair care (e.g. shampoos, conditioners, styling products,coloring products ...)

Body care (e.g. soap bars, liquid soaps, bath crystals,body washes, shower gels, deodorants, ...)

Oral hygiene (e.g. tooth gels, tooth pastes, mouth washes, ...)

Men’s cosmetics (e.g. shave and after shave products, ...)

Sun care (e.g. sun lotions and creams,after sun treatments, self-tanning products,...)

g

Formulating Pearl Pigments in differentApplications


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Powders

add pearls after / with addition of binder

Addition of pearl pigments to formulations without problems

Applicable for all cosmetic applications

disperse in water or oil/wax phase

no side reactions with other raw materials

pH-stability (only some exceptions)

Dispersions (e.g. nail polish)

add pearls after addition of color solutions

no tendency to agglomerate

pp

Overview Formula Categories


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Emulsion

Face cream, body lotion, foundation, mascara, fluid-eyeliner

Stick

Lipstick, foundation & eyeshadow, pencil

Powder

Facepowder, blush, eyeshadow

Paste Blush, lip-gloss, compact-foundation, „cream“-eyeshadow

Dispersion

Nail polish

Gel

Shower gel, liquid soap, hair gel, shampoo

Emulsions


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Effect versus Concentration

Effect

Recommended

pigment concentration

Aesthetic

Improvement of product appearance delivers a more

elegant and/or luxurious effect for skin care and make-up formulations.No coloring of the skin. 0.05 – 0.5 %

Functional

Providing additionally a coloring effect on the skin

similar to color cosmetic products. 0.5 – 4.0 %


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Stabilization of Pearl Pigments


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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:

Special Effects!

In highly viscous systems, pearl luster pigments are stable within the

base. Only in systems of very low viscosity pearl luster pigments have to

be stabilized against sedimentation. Pearl pigments usually do not require

additional suspension agents in foundations. The concentration of

thickeners depends on the final viscosity and can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 %.

Cream with Violet Interference PigmentCream with Blue Interference Pigment

Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:Pigment Addition before


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Avoid excessive homogenization!

g

water phase:addition of pearl pigment

emulsifying

cooling down

Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:Pigment Addition after


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Work under vacuum, stir slowly to avoid introduction of air

emulsifying / homogenizing

cooling down

addition of pearl pigment

Stick Formulations


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Waxes 10-25%

Oils 40-65%

may contain volatiles 0-30%

Pearlescent pigments 0-20%

Color pigments 3-15%

Functional fillers 0-8%

Additives q.s.

e.g. actives, SPF, perfume

Formulating with Pearl PigmentsOil / Wax based Products


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Stir during filling to avoid sedimentation!

oil / wax phase

~80°C

addition of pearl pigment

(only stirring)

cooling down

A high content of pearl pigments in lipstick formulations may cause flow

lines in the finished lipsticks. This can happen if the temperature of the

moulds is not adjusted to the temperature of the lipstick mass. The moulds

should be pre-heated to 50 - 60°C.

Due to their high density pearl luster pigments based on mica may settle down

either in the hot melted lipstick bulk or within the lipstick moulds after pouring.This can be avoided by stirring continuously during incorporation of the

pigments and by maintaining a low pouring temperature.

Recommended usage concentration of pearl lusterpigments to achieve different effects in lipsticks


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Desired Effect Reccomanded

Concentration

Remarks

Subtle pearl effect 1 – 5% All particle sizes

Strong pearl and luster

effect

5 – 15% All particle sizes

Highlighting, sparkling

effect

1 – 10% > 100 microns

Recommended usage concentration of pearl lusterpigments for different lip applications


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Finished Product Level of Use

Lipstick 1 – 20%

Lip balm 3 – 5%

Lip gloss 1 – 5%

Lip lacquer 10 – 15%

Personal CareShower Gels and Shampoos


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Formulation Tips for Gel Products


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Use the most transparent formulation possible

The less opacity the formulation has, the better is the visible effect, and the

lower is the concentration on pearls needed.

Create your colorUse a colored (water/oil soluble dyes) or non-colored base formulation and

add a small amount of pearl pigments to add shine and highlights.

Effect of particle size

Small particles create silky and satiny effects, opacify the mass and impartricher appearance. Larger sized particles will provide high luster, sparkling or

glittering effects. The formulation will stay almost transparent.

Formulating with Pearl PigmentsWater based Products


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Avoid excessive agitation!

water

disperse pearlescent pigment

add stabilisator / thickener

Formulating with Pearl PigmentsRules to be Considered


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Addition of pearl pigments to water or oil phase

Addition of thickeners after pearl pigment

No strong homogenization necessary

Avoid excessive homogenization – loss of gloss in case of big particle sized

pigments possible!

Personal CareTooth Pastes / Tooth Gels


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Usually manufacturers only use pearl pigments to highlight the transparent and colored (red,

blue or green) stripes.

Due to the high light scattering properties of titanium dioxide the pearlescent effect in the

white part will be minimized. Usage level: 0.1 - 0.6%

Recommended particle size D90: >50µm (as coarse as possible)

Merck’s Brands


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Timiron ® Silverwhite & interference pigments

Colorona ® Pearlescence plus absorption equals color (Gold, Color Luster, Metallic Color, Two-Tone, Mica Black)

Xirona ® Brilliant Color Travel pigments

Ronastar ® Pigments with high chroma, sophisticated effects

and clean mass tone

Pigmenti kdkkfjPerlescenti

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