PowerPoint Presentation

TRNG I HC BCH KHOA TP HCMKHOA K THUT HA HC

MN HC: C HC LU CHT PHI NEWTON

TI: PH GIA LU BIN TRONG M PHMLch s loi ngi ghi nhn dn tc c xa bit s dng m phm sm nht l ngi Ai Cp. Bn nng lm p pht sinh t khi con ngi xut hin trn tri tNgi Ai Cp dng cc cht mu ly t khong sn v thc vt trang im khun mt, dng mt loi bt nho lm t tro v t st lm x bng tm ra, lm kem trng da bng vi chn v mui ch, cc loi kem dng da bng sa la, mt ong, t st, bt m, du thc vt.I. Lch s ca m phmC ph n ln nam gii u trang im. Ngoi tc dng lm p, ngi Ai Cp tin vic trang im gip h trnh c tc hi ca nh nng mt tri cng nh c tc dng phng nga cc loi bnh.I. Lch s ca m phm Ngy nay, cng nghip m phm c thc hin trong nhng phng th nghim ti tn, quy t cc chuyn vin ca nhiu ngnh v c trang b nhng my mc hn i nht.

Ngnh m phm tr nn mt ngnh khoa hc c ging dy trong cc trng i hc v vin nghin cu m phm.

I. Lch s ca m phmTrong tng lai s khng cn dng cht bo qun c th gy phn ng trn da. M phm s c bo ch c tc dng lu di, hu hiu hn v s c tnh thng minh: ch tc dng nhng t bo da c ch nh.

Nh nhng phng php trch ly hin i, s tm cc hot cht c tc dng tt cho ln da trong cy c thin nhin, t c hi hn ha cht tng hp.Tm nhng phng php mi tr cc ri lon sc t da (bch bin, nm) hiu qu hn. Tr mi khng gi l mc tiu hnh u ca ngnh m phm.II. Cc thnh phn ca m phm1. Cc cht tr liu

Peptide : thc y qu trnh sn xut collagen v elastin, chng oxy ha, gip da sn chc, mn mng, lm mm v sng daAxit Salicylic : Ty t bo cht, lm sch bi bn trn da.Vitamin A : ngn nga np nhn, ci thin tuyn du trn da. Axit Alpha Hydroxy (AHA) : Hn ch np nhn, lm se l chn lng Du, m, sp: duy tr lng nc, gip da mm mi. Silicon : Lm da ti sng, gim np nhn, m so.Hydroquinone : lm trng v sng daAxt beta hydroxy(BHA): loi b mn v vt thm

V cn nhiu cht tr liu khc 5II. Cc thnh phn ca m phmCht hot ng b mt c s dng trong m phm vi nhiu mc ch khc nhau : ty ra, thm t, to bt, nh ha, lm tan.

2. Cc cht hot ng b mtMt s cht hot ng b mt thng c s dng trong m phm :

Glycerin Stearate : to mn cho kem v cc hn hp kem.

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate : cht to bt, gip ty ra tt hn.Alkyl ether sulfate : Gip qu trnh ha tan din ra tt hn

6II. Cc thnh phn ca m phm3. Cc cht lm stTuy l ph gia c hm lng rt t trong sn phm nhng n ng gp mt vai tr quan trng:- n nh sn phm.- Sn phm bn trong qu trnh lu tr v s dng.

Trong cc cht lm st hu c, ngi ta thng s dng CMCNa (carboxymetyl xenluloza natri) hoc gum xanthan.

II. Cc thnh phn ca m phm4. Cc cht khcNgoi ra cn mt s thnh phn khc c c m phm bn ra th trng:- Cht to mu : colorant, iron oxide ..- Cht n nh pH- Hng liu - Cht bo qun : phenol, triclocacbon, triclosan.III. Ph gia m phm carbomer- Carbomer l mt thut ng c s dng cho mt lot cc polyme ch yu c lm t axit acrylic. - Dng bt mn mu trng- Trong nc c tnh acid- T phng ln khi tip xc vi nc- Khng bt dnh, khng nng, n nh v tng tc cao, pH rng

III. Ph gia m phm - Carbomer- Carbomers l tc cht gelling c s dng ph bin nht cho m phm.- Carbomer 940 v 980 c u tin s dng hn v chng l tinh th trong sut, do, n hi nht.- Mt lng rt nh Carbomer cng to ra nht cao trong mi trng nc.

- Cc phn t Carbomer c kh nng hp th mt lng nc ln, do c th to gel v dng bo qun sn phm.

- Lm c sn phm to nh tng

- Khng gy kch ng da v nhy cm khi s dng

- To tinh th nhy trong sut

- To nht v chy c trng cho sn phm

- Sn phm kh nhanh v khng to lp mng trn da.Cng dng ca CarbomerIII. Ph gia m phm - CarbomerIII. Ph gia m phm - Carbomer

nht ca Carbomer nh mt hm ca pHIII. Ph gia m phm - Carbomer

nht Carbomer gim khi thm NaClIV. Ph gia m phm Xanthan gumL mt polysaccharide c s dng nh l mt ph gia thc thm, m phm v cht iu chnh lu binL sn phm ln men ca glucose v saccharose bi vi khun Xanhthomona

IV. Ph gia m phm Xanthan gumCu trcCu trc c bn: 1 mch chnh l cellulose (cc phn t glucose lin kt -(1,4)) v 1 mch bn trisaccharide.

Mi n v -D-glucopyranosyl trn mch chnh c lin kt vi 1 n v -D-glucopyranosyl (1>4)- -D- glucuronopyranosyl (1>2)-6-O-acetyl- -D-mannopyranosyl trisaccharide.

IV. Ph gia m phm Xanthan gum

IV. Ph gia m phm Xanthan gumTnh chtTo dung dch c nhtKhng ha tan trc tip c trong alcohol nhng c kh nng tng thch vi nXanthan khng b thoi ha bi cc enzyme c mt trong thc phm nh cellulase, pectinase, amylase, protease.Xanthan gum c kh nng kt hp c vi nhiu cht to gel, to st khc nhau nh locust bean gum, konjac, guar gum.Xanthan gum l mt cht ho nc, tan c trong nc nng v nc lnh.

IV. Ph gia m phm Xanthan gumTnh nht nht gim khi nhit tng, nhng khi phc li khi lm ngui. nht ph thuc pH, nht ca xanthan gum gim khi pH