Pasticceria Internazionale

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

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ALL THE BASICS OFPASTRY MAKING

THOUGHTS ON THE CRISIS

THE QUEEN OF PASTRY

A QUESTION OF STYLE

RICE, MILK AND CHESTNUTS

GELATO ON TOP OF THE WORLD

BUT WHY?!

CHICAGO RESTAURANT PASTRY COMPETITION

NEWS

Cop. PIWWE n 21_*Cop. PIWWE n. 9/2006 08/06/12 11.29 Pagina 1

www.luxardo.it

Progetto2_Layout 1 01/06/11 12.06 Pagina 1

Liqueur excellence

Two classic shapes for a modern cake

For small delicacies

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Windsor - PineroloMARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2012 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 248 - 2012

ON OUR COVERCassiopea by Sonia Balacchi

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

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issue twenty-one-2012

ALL THE BASICS OFPASTRY MAKING

THOUGHTS ON THE CRISIS

THE QUEEN OF PASTRY

A QUESTION OF STYLE


GELATO ON TOP OF THE WORLD

BUT WHY?!

CHICAGO RESTAURANT PASTRY COMPETITION

NEWS

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

In this issueAll the basics of pastry making

Thoughts on the crisis

The queen of pastry

A question of style

Rice, milk and chestnuts

Gelato on top of the world

But why?!

Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

SUBSCRIBE ON-L INE

NewsPierre’s gardens

The synergy for chocolate

Sigep 2013 anticipates trends andmultiplies business all over the world

Quality from Sicily

Soft gelato enters the pastry shop

All in one

The Relais Desserts in Alsace

Italians for Lyons

Liqueur excellence



recipes, pictures and interviews, subscribe on line

brouse through the mag, receive newsletters, stay in

touch with the pastry and gelato world

www.piwwe.com

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2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 3

More than a manual, more than a recipe book: “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte eScienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making) isthe evolution of what in publishing is called a best and long seller, that is the “Ma-nuale della Pasticceria Italiana” (Italian Pastry Maker’s Manual) by Chiriotti Editori. Atrue encyclopedia of more than 800 pages, written in Italian with intense passionand a profound professionalism by Leonardo Di Carlo

After three years of “gestation” we are proud to present “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte eScienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making). More than amanual, much more than a recipe book, a real instrument for the workshop to read, read again,consult, underline, comment… Over 800 pages and more of recipes divided into pastry ma-king types, covering all the topics that make handmade pastry making great. A manual, whichis exhaustive in every detail in order to make it usable and useful for all. Scientific and techni-cal explanations, in depth practical advice, recipes, variations, merits, defects, schematized pro-cesses, notes and tricks all experienced “firsthand” by the author, Leonardo Di Carlo, whowanted to transfer all this experience onto every page, all his studies and experiments. Leo isin fact a professional who is never satisfied with what he already knows, but continues to mea-sure himself against his colleagues on an Italian and international level, including experts in re-lative fields (from chemistry to biology…), researching books and doing research in theworkshop, always searching to satisfy himself and others, first of all the true handmade pastrymaking being close to his heart, fruit of tradition and evolution, as expressed in the chosentitle. A creative approach to a scientific and rigorous pastry making.This professional volume is therefore the result of a complex and reasoned work, because thewish of the author and the editor is that of offering an instrument – we repeat the term becausewe consider it the best to describe this new book – which every professional, every enthusiast,anyone can personalize, make it their own depending on their needs, tastes, customer re-

All the basics OF PASTRY MAKING

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

Leonardo Di Carlo

arte e scienza in pasticceria

To order the book [email protected]//shop.chiriottieditori.it

03-04 All the basics of pastry making_Layout 1 07/06/12 10.06 Pagina 3

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 214

PAS

TRY

quests… All the basics necessary to build apersonal path, at the same time emotionaland rational, able to increase the knowledgeof what one does and how one does it.Today this editorial project is a manual in thetrue sense of the word, with photos and re-cipes. A single volume which collects toge-ther the notions, in order to simplify theconsultation. For more than 30 years, ac-tion after action, we have always acted notonly for financial ends, but mainly for thegood of the sector, and the craftsmen. Notinstrumental choices, but ones mediated bythe desire to spread culture, to help thesector grow by stimulating, helping and su-staining it.There is a lot more that can be said aboutthis manual, but there is no need to slip intoself congratulations. We invite you to read it,to reason it, to use it, to consume it, to turndown the pages, to underline in it, to stain itin the workshop... You can find information about the book andits contents, about the backstage, and alsovideos and updates about appointments withthe author on www.tradizioneinevoluzione.it,the website where the book “comes to life”and evolves over time.Why such a detailed and complete book?

Because it is what I have always dreamt tofind on the shelves of the libraries over theworld.What does it mean writing a professional

manual?

A tremendous effort, but a great satisfaction.All that you give away, will come back to you!Why should we buy it?

Because “I” really wrote it with the intent tosimplify and make the most complex notionsimmediately understandable.How much time have you dedicated to it?

To tell the truth, I made the first draft in 2006,

then, reasoning and maturing, more thanthree years.Where did you start from?

Custard, and it was hard. I saw an immensething to do and it seemed unreachable.The most exciting moments of this “gesta-

tion”?

The first time I saw the draft of a laid outchapter. It is so different seeing it in print in-stead of on file. I was really excited and sa-tisfied.The recipe you are most attached to?

The Sacher: just last month I created the48th version and it makes me happy to makecolleagues realize that everything is possiblewhen you have the basics and the kno-wledge.The confectionary range that you prefer?

All of them, because each time I make a di-scovery and find new ideas. For example forCarnival I prepared very particular fritters andfor me this was a great satisfaction, whichencourages me, because it this that peoplewant and I have the possibility to alwayscreate a challenge for myself.What would you like a young person to learn

from this book?

That what I was missing at the beginning,that is, serious basics and the “why” the in-gredients, once assembled, behave in a cer-tain way. Why did you decide to become a pastry chef?

Partly it was decided by my destiny and par-tly by my artistic streak, the scholastic pathof my education and my inclination to com-municate.What does it mean to be an artisan today?

To aim at quality and uniqueness, becausethe competition from large industries is verystrong. And to also become businessmen toall intents and purposes in order to survive oureconomic system.

How important is and how much of theoreti-

cal culture is in the workshop?

A lot, we have limited ourselves to only co-pying others recipes. And young people arebeginning to understand this, and are com-mitting themselves to becoming the mastersof their own creations.What is your perfect shop like?

First, it has a shop window that entices thecustomers to enter, then, who is behind thecounter must be educated and motivated tosell a “small dream”.And the perfect workshop?

Logistics and organisation of the work at thehighest levels.Three pieces of advice on how to face this

slump.

It will seem banal, but invest in the quality(with a price war, you can close down), keepyourself up to date and see new opportunitiesevery morning.Your three most obvious qualities.

Passion, warmth, simplicity.Your most obvious three defects.

Touchy, “prima donna”, fussy.Your favourite sweet.

A well cooked millefeuille with very littlecream, so tasty, so much for diets!Your secret dream.

I am not saying, otherwise it brings bad luck!What would you like to do when you grow up?

... There’s still time to grow up!L.C.

03-04 All the basics of pastry making_Layout 1 07/06/12 10.06 Pagina 4

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SIGEP 2013 ANTICIPATES TRENDS ANDMULTIPLIES BUSINESS ALLOVER THE WORLD

Sigep, the international expo of ar-tisan gelato, pastry, confectioneryand bakery production, will be heldat Rimini Fiera from January 19thto 23rd together with A.B. TechExpo, the 3rd international expo oftechnologies and products for ba-

kery, pastry and confectionery which was acquired by Ri-mini Fiera, thus further strengthening the bakeryproduction chain. Young pastry chefs from five continents will compete inthe Junior Pastry World Cup, a showcase in which theworld’s pastry art talents will show their skill on thetheme “The circus of the future”. At the international con-test The Star of Sugar, sugar artists from all over theworld will present their sculptures on “The clown girl”.The five winning nations of the previous editions of theSigep Bread Cup (Italy, Germany, Israel, United Statesand Hungary) will take part in the Golden Bread Cupwith their performances and traditional recipes, inspiringa fascinating journey through the tradition of bread allover the world. Alongside there will also be Sigep Gelato d’Oro, selec-ting the members of the Italian team that will take part inthe next Gelato World Cup; the Junior and Senior ItalianPastry Championships, the Italian selection for theWorld Chocolate Masters, as well as events highlightinggelato as a healthy product and all the contests for identi-fying and showcasing trend-setting flavours. There willonce again be the Cake Design Forum, with the formulathat will combine a first vote via the web and the finalstage of the exhibition of trend-setting cakes directly atRimini. Moreover, there will be events connected with theworld of coffee with the Italian Barista Championshipsfor the world finals of the WBC (World Barista Cham-pionship), WLA (World Latte Art Championship) andWCS (World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship).www.sigep.it - www.abtechexpo.it

The synergy for chocolate

K24 Evo by Bravo is a new continuous tempering ma-chine provided with all the fundamental accesso-

ries, i.e. a belt for partial or total covering witha release system for washing, and a flat vibra-ting table with heated and inclined sides to fa-cilitate chocolate dripping. In addition to theadvanced software that manages 8 automaticprograms, K24 Evo also offers: thermic self-

balancing, an automatic control system tocheck temperature depending on the quantity of

product in the machine; temperature control,new generation probes working with 1/10 of de-

gree accuracy and keeping steady temperature atthe heart of chocolate; sheet resistance heating

system, ensuring a precise chocolate tempera-ture control. The multi-functional Trittico Execu-tive can also work as a cycle tempering machine,

making a complete cycle every 30 minutes in itsupper tank, from which tempered chocolate can be extrac-

ted through a patented chute, without making the freezing cylin-der dirty and avoiding any waste. Therefore the machine – which is provided bytwo tanks that can work indipendently together – is also fit to produce flavouredganache creams for fillings (pistachio, hazelnut, coconut...), spicy chocolate,products with chopped dried fruit... The advantages in chocolate making thatderive from the synergy of Trittico Executive and K24 Evo are in terms of organi-zation of the production site and production growth. For example, while K24 Evois covering with dark chocolate, Trittico Executive can be used for producing ga-nache and, due to its speed and automatism, for managing the entire productioncycle of milk and white chocolate.Bravo presented K24 Evo to the Asian marketin April, during Food&Hotel Asia in Singa-pore, where the chefs of the Trittico Clubteam performed nonstop live demos.Moreover, Bravo wasalso the silversponsor of theAsian PastryCup, a live com-petition that cul-minated in thepre-selection of the Asian teamswhich will compete at the WorldPastry Cup 2013 in Lyon (France)and which was won by the Austra-lian team. In May Bravo moved toChicago at the NRA Show,where the chefs of the FrenchPastry School used Trittico Exe-cutive for the making of gelato andpastry desserts. www.bravo.it

PIERRE’S GARDENS

With Infiniment Jardin, the delicy of the unpa-ralleled macarons by Pierre Hermé expressesitself into ad ideal walk through enchanted gar-dens, where the abundance of aromas ad per-fumes transforms itself into uncommon tastematches. Every month since February a newmacaron of this original collection has beenlaunched in Paris, and the next ones will be Jar-din d’Eden, basil and vanilla, in July; Jardind’été, lemon and caramelized fennel, in August;Jardin Sauvage, chocolate and lime, in Septem-ber; Jardin Oriental, orange flower, rose andginger, in October; Jardin d’Antan, violet andanise, in November. www.pierreherme.com

Jardin Oriental (on the left) and Jardin d’Antan,the macarons that will be launched respectivelyin October and November by Pierre Hermé.

More pictures on

www.piwwe.com

extra

06 NEWS_Layout 1 07/06/12 10.12 Pagina 6

Elegance milk

dobla.com

Raimondi sasDivisione Foodservice

Member of:

adv_Pasticceria_Inter_Worldwide_Edition.indd 1 25-05-12 09:58


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An interview with Gino Fabbri, conscious professional,highly appreciated for his empathy and equilibrium,values, which are important these days in order to beoptimistic. Gino is the owner of a pastry store, havingthe same name, in Bologna and president of the Acca-demia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani

What is the attitude of the consumers towards the pastry store in this economical situation? The sales of our products are subject to fluctuations, however we have an advantage overother sectors, because pastries are seen as a form of gratification and therefore, in these sadtimes, people feel the need to gratify themselves and we fulfill this role. A pastry rather thana praline, as well as a croissant which has just come out of the oven are gratifying and helpto face the day in a better way.

Thoughts on the CRISIS

008-012 Thoughts on the economical crisis_Layout 1 07/06/12 10.13 Pagina 8


As a pastry chef, head of an artisan ac-tivity, what advice can you give to col-leagues to develop their activity and toassert themselves on the market irre-spective of the present economiccycle?I think it is right and honest to try as much aspossible to offer what the customer expectsfrom us. Any pastry chef is, in turn, a custo-mer in another sector and we should behaveas we would like others to behave towardsus, that is, finding the right quality-priceratio. Many artisans work in a better way compa-red to an industrial level because they can

afford to offer fresh raw materials, withoutpreservatives. We have to hold high the offerof haute patisserie because the better wework, the more we all work. A programme,therefore, of a high standard and which isengaging. These are small things which areimportant for the customers. At this momentin time I would advise my colleagues tomake a right evaluation, and balance thechoices of production. Advice for young chefs?To the younger generations I would say tobe determined in choosing the best, other-wise it will not be only their activity that willbe damaged but all the category.

Do you think it will be necessary to re-touch prices?As I was saying before, our products maybe bought because they represent gratifica-tion, but how much do they cost? We are allselling at a lower cost if we compare it tothe prices of the fifties and sixties; if wemake a comparison we should sell at higherprices. The problem is staying within over-head costs without increasing the prices.Fifty years ago there were not many cakeshops in Bologna, therefore the competitionwas less fierce. Today the industrial qualityof any typology, mainly long life products, ishigh and the price is lower than what an ar-

Pistachio Emmanuel for 3 sheets

Qty %pasteurized mixed eggs g 370 16.72trimoline g 600 27.11flour 0 W 200-220 g 370 16.72icing sugar g 180 8.13chemical yeast g 16 0.72green food colouring g 3 0.14salt g 4 0.18milk g 120 5.42butter g 300 13.56pistachio paste g 250 11.30Melt the butter. Sift the flour, icing sugar, salt and yeast powder together.Mix the eggs, inverted sugar, and pistachio paste together in a planetarymixer or robot. Then add the sifted flour, milk and butter melted to 45°-48°C (the temperature is very important) and the colouring. Leave to restovernight before using. Spread thinly on a silicone sheet to cook. Placein an oven at 220°-230°C for 6-8 minutes with valve closed.

Cream-ricotta cheese creamfor 10 sweets Ø 20 cm

Qty %cream g 1,124 54.05sugar g 900 16.22orange honey g 450 8.11gelatine leaves g 76 1,37ricotta cheese g 1,124 20.25cream g 1,876 54.05Heat the cream with the sugar and honey. Add the softened and wellsqueezed gelatine. Pour over the ricotta cheese and emulsify in a mixer.Heat to a temperature of 28°C and add the partially whipped cream.

Raspberry gelatine 1 for 11-12 fillings diameter 18 cm (60 for inside)

Qty %sugar g 125 22.73sugared raspberry puree 10% g 625 75.57sugar g 63 22.73pectin x58 g 9 1.09alginate g 5 0.60Mix the sugar with the pectin and alginate. Bring the raspberry puree andthe sugar to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and spread ona sheet. This can be used for fillings, cubes or other.

Orange cream for filling for 10 fillings Ø 18 cm with gelatine

Qty %orange juice g 777 26.27sugar g 466 15.75pasteurized egg yolks g 435 14.71pasteurized eggs g 497 16.80butter g 466 15.75gelatine leaves g 7 0.24candied orange in cubes g 310 10.48Soften and squeeze out the gelatine Liquidize the candied orange cubesuntil they are pureed. Add all the ingredients except the butter. Continuingto stir, bring slowly to the boil to obtain a gelatinous consistency. Whenthe mixture has cooled down to around 35°-40°C add the butter andemulsify in a mixer. Pour or put into round mold and freeze.

AssemblyFor the filling: first put a layer of gelatine, then the orange cream and la-stly the Emmanuel. Turn over and use this frozen filling as the base of thesweet. Pour the cream-ricotta cheese cream, then a chocolate sheet,more cream, a layer of Emmanuel and finish off with the cream. Cool quic-kly and store. Remove from the conserver when you want to prepare it forwindow display, spraying with butter and cocoa and white chocolate. De-corate according to the filling of the sweet.

PREZIOSO petits gâteaux


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tisan can charge, even though he makesmarvelous products but with a higher cost,therefore in order to be competitive he mustgive something more.Practical examples?If the artisan, in order to lower costs, redu-ces the quality of the raw materials, the re-sult will be a mediocre product and in anycase with a higher price compared to an in-dustrially produced product. Therefore thelevel of quality must never be lowered loo-king for cheaper raw materials at the ex-pense of excellence. The problem is thetransport costs that have an important im-pact on everything, from the workforce tothe accessories, to the paper... But I mustnot reduce the quality of the product itself. Ifless customers enter the shop, the impor-tant thing is to offer always the best, also

because this trend is cyclic and sooner orlater it will change. Furthermore we knowthat, if we increase prices considerably welose customers and it is very hard to winthem back. How have you gone through this cyclicpattern?In the 70‘s, there was a considerable re-duction in consumption but once this pas-sed everyone was more optimistic. Now thisis not so. It was possible to see a better fu-ture then, one knew that once that periodhad passed people would have startedbuying again, today we look around and wedo not know where to look, the uneasinesscan be felt. And what considerations come tomind?We older pastry chefs must be the testimo-

nial for the new generations of professio-nals, in order to have a handover that takesinto account the quality and traditions. TheItalian pastry chefs must react proposingand perhaps rediscovering in a modern way,pastry making with a local taste. We mustremember that, here in Italy, we have thebest raw materials in the world, such as ha-zelnuts, almonds, citrus fruit and pistachios.The pride in what we are and our ori-gins, therefore?Tradition is not just something old, but couldbe the new Italian strategy of trends towardsa future that can be successful if managedusing our heads, using excellent productswithout having any doubts or hesitation, butliving and acting with determination andbeing proactive, both towards the customerand the market.

Last March Cast Alimenti school in Brescia ho-

sted the 19th edition of the Simposio Tecnico

AMPI, an event which, every year, reunites all

the associates of the Italian Pastry Chef Aca-

demy over three days punctuated by technical

lessons, speeches from experts coming from the

world of industry, studies of topics of common inte-

rest and exams for the new candidates. The aim of

the meeting is to stimulate a constructive comparison between col-

leagues in order to increase and widen the knowledge in techni-

ques, products and ingredients.

The most eagerly-awaited moment is, as always, that of the exams,

which include a theoretical part, during which the Committee as-

sesses the technical knowledge of the candidates on various topics

of pastry making, and a practical test, based on the preparation of

six cakes plus a pièce characterized by the use of the various de-

coration techniques. Out of the 7 candidates who went in for the

exam, the following people passed: Diego Crosara, Gianluca

Fusto, Davide Malizia, Ernst Knam (l’Antica Arte del Dolce in Milan),

Giovanni Cavalleri (Pasticceria Roberto at Erbusco, Bs) and Ric-

cardo Patalani (Pasticceria Patalani in Viareggio).

www.ampiweb.it


THE AMPI MEETING

QUALITY FROM SICILY

Duegi Dolciaria from Modica, near Ragusa, is a leading Italian societyproducing semi-manufactured items for confectionery, gelato andho.re.ca. The focus is on the quality of their range, which is obtainedusing innovative food technology, in order to provide new taste expe-riences.They have recently launched the new brand Glamhour, i.e. three collec-tions of delicacies representing the mix between flavour and style.Sweet Glamhour is a sweet line for the clients wishing to show the fi-nest displays in their confectionery stores; Happy Glamhour is a fingerfood products line for happy hours; Ice Glamhour is intended for gelatomaking and it includes cookies and sprinkles for decoration. Duegi’slarge range of products, solutions, services and specialized staff make ita reliable partner for professionals looking for quality. www.duegidolciaria.com



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for 10 sweets Ø 20 cm

Zabaione cream with white chocolateQty %

egg yolks g 252 9.70wine g 252 9.70sugar g 504 19.40gelatine leaves g 15 0.58white chocolate g 315 12.12cream g 1,260 48.50Prepare a syrup with the wine and sugar. Mix together the cooled syrupand the yolks and heat to a temperature of 82°-84°C. Whisk until cold,add half of the gelatine, which has been softened and melted. Melt thechocolate at a temperature of 40°-45°C and add to the whipped mixture.Fold in the lightly whipped cream and pour into a round mold.

Coffee gelatine for fillingQty %

water g 1,140 70.28sugar g 340 20.96agar-agar E 406 g 14 0.86gelatine leaves g 14 0.86freeze-dried coffee g 114 7.03sponge for rolling as required prepared coffee for moistening as requiredMix sugar and agar-agar. Bring water to the boil, adding half of the mix-ture prepared. When it comes to the boil, remove from heat and add thecoffee and softened gelatin. Cool until it reaches a temperature of 26°Cbefore pouring into the round molds already prepared on the Silpat (130for each round mold). Place a mold to divide on top and moisten slightlywith the coffee.

Sponge for rolls Qty %

almond paste 70% g 1,000 55.56pasteurized egg whites g 400 22.22melted butter g 300 16.67inverted sugar g 100 5.56In a planetary mixer beat the raw almond paste, thin a little at a time withthe liquid egg whites and the inverted sugar. When the mixture is lightlywhipped and smooth, add the hot melted butter and then beat. Spreadon sheets and bake with valve closed at 180°-190°C. Each sheet weighs800-1,300 g.

Coffee syrupQty %

water g 2,200 30.14sugar g 3,100 42.47Kenia Camel coffee 40% Vol. g 2,000 27.40Bring the water and sugar to the boil and when cooled add the liqueur.

Coffee Bavarian creamQty %

egg yolks g 126 4.98sugar g 100 3.95freeze-dried coffee g 20 0.79milk g 378 14.95gelatine leaves g 15 0.59milk chocolate g 378 14.95cream g 1,512 59.79Dissolve the coffee in the yolks and add the sugar. Heat the milk, pouronto the mixture and cook at a temperature of 82°-84°C. Add the softe-ned gelatine and pour onto the chocolate, mix using a minipimer. Cooldown to a temperature of 28°-30°C and add the lightly whipped cream.Pour into round molds.

Coffee brittleQty %

almond praline 50% g 300 25almond paste 100% g 200 16.67coffee paste g 60 5dark chocolate 70% cocoa g 170 14.17wafer flakes g 400 33.33melted butter g 70 5.83Mix the pastes together, add the chocolate and then the wafer. Mix well,add the butter, mix and spread out between two sheets of greaseproofpaper 600 g in weight. Cool in the freezer; cut out circles 18 cm in dia-meter, use when needed.

Assembly Starting from the base, take a round of sponge and place a round circleof brittle on top. Pour on the Coffee Bavarian cream up to half of theround and place a filling of gelatine and sponge. Finish off the round withthe white chocolate zabaione cream.

Gino FabbriBologna

www.ginofabbripasticcere.itphotos Giancarlo Bononi

COFFEECREAM

Soft gelato enters the pastry shop

EVD is a soft-serve gelato machine by Carpigiani which stands out for its modern design, elegantshape, and intuitive use of lights. Industry professionals who have tried it along with master instruc-tors from Carpigiani Gelato University have been favourably impressed by its potential and innova-tive features.EVD is ergonomic, versatile, dynamic, and it provides its own working space, thanks to a generouscounter space and a storage cabinet incorporated into the machine itself. Today it is possible tocreate innovative soft-serve products, such as large, decorated gelato cakes, gelato sandwiches ofall kinds, and an endless variety of gelato and semifreddo snacks. All can be produced quickly whilemaintaining a clean working area.EVD features cylinders with independent, dedicated motors, to obtain different types of product atthe same time, like gelato, sorbet, yogurt, and semifreddo. The machine boasts a dispensing headthat moves up and down to make it easy for the operator to fill and clean the hopper.As soon as its work has been completed in the production area, it can be easily moved out amongcustomers. A strategically placed machine offers self-serve new gelato and pastry options, increa-sing profits and encouraging return visits.www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com

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The Italian pastry chef Sonia Balacchi was the winner ofthe first edition of The Pastry Queen, the competition reser-ved to women professionals which took place in Rimini lastJanuary during Sigep. Balacchi was followed by Kyung-RanBaccon, France, and Susan Notter, Usa. Each contestanthad to prepare a chocolate entremets, a plated dessert witha fruit sorbet, a sugar and pastillage work and a dessertserved in a glass. Here is the winner’s chocolate entre-mets, which is inspired to the figure of the mythologicalaethiopian queen Cassiopeia, a symbol of female beautyand vanity.

THE QUEEN OF PASTRY

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Chocolate rollpasteurized egg yolks g 150granulated sugar g 70invert sugar g 30fresh egg whites g 180granulated sugar g 60dried egg whites g 1weak flour g 35rice starch g 25cocoa powder g 20dark chocolate 62% g 90fresh butter 82% g 80In a planetary mixer mount the yolks with sugar and invert sugar. In ano-ther bowl whisk the whites with sugar and the dried egg whites. Stir theyolks and the melted butter into chocolate, alternating with one half of thewhites and mix gently the sieved powders. Complete the roll incorpora-ting the other half of the whites. Form two rolls on two baking sheetsusing 375 g of the mass, spreading it evenly with a theraplette. Bakeat 250°C for three minutes in a fan oven.

Almond crunchy fresh soft butter 82% g 225sliced white almonds g 170granulated sugar g 200weak flour g 45salt (in a solutionwith 5 g of water) g 1.5

Tahiti vanilla pod n. 1dry glucose 38DE g 25Mix the ingredients in a planetary mixer with leaf, spread the mixture at 3mm of thickness. Bake at 170°C for about 15 minutes in a fan oven.

Custardfresh cream 35% g 430fresh whole milk g 650pasteurized egg yolks g 320granulated sugar g 160rice starch g 18Mix the yolks with the sugar and starch. Bring the milk and cream to aboil and pour over the yolks a little at a time. Bake at 80°C.

Chocolate creamy milk chocolate 36% g 383hazelnut paste g 56custard g 383gelatine golden sheets 150B g 6.8Put the milk chocolate drops, hazelnut paste and rehydrated gelatin ina bowl. Pour the hot custard and emulsify to obtain acreamy, smooth and shiny mixture.

Strawberry and raspberry jellyraspberry pulp g 282Perigord strawberry pulp g 470caster sugar g 113gelatine golden sheets 150B g 22.6Mix the fruit pulp with sugar and heat at 30°C. Add the rehydrated gela-tine to a part of the pulps and heat at 60°C. Combine and mix.

Tiramisù creammascarpone g 500fresh cream 35% g 100custard g 165espresso coffee g 13granulated sugar g 50invert sugar g 20gelatine golden sheets 150B g 7dextrose g 10Stir the warm custard with coffee, sugar and rehydratedgelatine. At 30°C add the mascarpone and the cream, stirring until themixture is smooth and homogeneous.

Passion fruit caramel toffeeIsomalt g 153granulated sugar g 115fresh cream 35% g 48fresh butter 82% g 48Himalayan pink salt g 1.3 passion fruit pulp g 128Tahiti vanilla pod n. 1gelatine golden sheets 150B g 9In a saucepan melt the Isomalt and sugar and caramelize until the desi-red color. Add the hot cream with passion fruit, vanilla and salt. Addthe rehydrated gelatine. Strain and incorporate the butter at 35°C, emul-sifying with the mixer.

Dark chocolate moussecustard g 302dark chocolate 72% g 270fresh cream 35% m.g. g 402Pour the boiling custard on the dark chocolate drops and emulsify to ob-tain a creamy, smooth and shiny mixture. When the ganache is at 30°C,pour the whipped cream.

Caramel icinggranulated sugar g 525glucose syrup 62DE g 405fresh cream 35% g 600Tahiti vanilla pods n. 2milk chocolate 36% g 150gelatine golden sheets 150B g 30lemon juice g 3In a saucepan melt the glucose syrup and sugar; caramelize to obtainthe desired colour. Add the hot cream with vanilla and lemon. Add the re-hydrated gelatine and pour on the milk chocolate drops. Emulsify to ob-tain a smooth and creamy mixture.

Sonia Balacchiphotos Fiera Rimini

CASSIOPEAentremets

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ALL IN ONE

With Multi Fresh Irinox has brought together multiple functions in one product, allowing the user to manage not only chilling and free-zing processes, but also proofing and thawing. It features controlled thawing cycles, giving the possibility to set time when products

must be ready for retail. The fast thawing cycle restores frozen products to positive temperature through a combinationof temperature and ventilation, it does not damage the texture of food and keeps the organoleptic characteristicsintact.The 4 confectionery thawing cycles are intended for miniature pastries, which have to be put on display or sliced,for baked products and gelato. For example, Multi Fresh can take miniature pastries to -2°C, which is the suitabledisplay temperature, or to -12°C, which is the ideal temperature for flawless slicing.Multi Fresh features special controlled proofing cycles, preserving the deep taste, delicate texture, right crispness,digestibility and above all extended freshness over time of bread and other leavened products. It ensures the idealproofing and holding cycle (for example at night) for leavened products, until the right moment for baking. WithMulti Fresh the professional can choose the exact moment to have the product perfectly leavened and ready forbaking.Multi Fresh has more than 90 dynamic cycles for different specialities (e.g. pies, croissants, pastry dough, mous-ses, creams...). The right temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture, optimum chilling and freezing times foreach food type have been carefully studied, and a large number of innovative and patented features have beenadded, such as Multisensor, a probe equipped with multiple food temperature sensing points; MultiRack, a trayrack suited to any environment (pastry, catering, etc...) that can be adjusted in terms of length and width; Sanigen,an active ion sanitization system which guarantees total sanitization of the work chamber, food and utensils as itworks through the air, reaching the most inaccessible, hard to clean areas and making dirt "inactive".

www.irinox.com


In April 22-25 the Relais Desserts International met in Mulhouse, Alsace, in thenortheast of France, on the occasion of Rencontres Internationales Relais

Desserts. Their public meeting was organised by Michel and PatriciaBannwarth of Pâtisserie Jacques (www.patisserie-jacques.com).

They spent three days of professional exchange and visits and also or-ganized a cocktail party at the local Cité de l'Automobile (http://cite-

delautomobile.com/fr/home), one of the biggest car museums in the world,where they welcomed 1.400 guests. The Italian members – Iginio Massari,

Luigi Biasetto and Giovanni Pina – were present together with Gino Fabbri, thepresident of Accademia Pasticceri Italiani, as a guest of honour.

www.relais-desserts.net

Italians for Lyons

Originally conceived by the French MOF Gabriel Paillasson,the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie has been a referenceevent for pastry worldwide since 1989, revealing new talentsand trends. The last Italian selection phase took place in Ja-nuary during Sigep exhibition and the winners among 9 candi-dates were Francesco Boccia (chocolate), Marcello Boccia(sugar) and Riccardo Patalani (ice). The three young profes-sionals will represent Italy in Lyon, and they are now workinghard to face the most important pastry competition in theworld, which will take place the 27 and 28 January 2013 in-volving 22 countries. They are supported by the Club

Coupe du Monde-Selezione Italia and a group of sponsors (below), themembers of the Italian teams which participated in the last editions of theCoupe are also helping them during their practise. ww.cmpatisserie.com



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ALL IN ONE

With Multi Fresh Irinox has brought together multiple functions in one product, allowing the user to manage not only chilling and free-zing processes, but also proofing and thawing. It features controlled thawing cycles, giving the possibility to set time when products

must be ready for retail. The fast thawing cycle restores frozen products to positive temperature through a combinationof temperature and ventilation, it does not damage the texture of food and keeps the organoleptic characteristicsintact.The 4 confectionery thawing cycles are intended for miniature pastries, which have to be put on display or sliced,for baked products and gelato. For example, Multi Fresh can take miniature pastries to -2°C, which is the suitabledisplay temperature, or to -12°C, which is the ideal temperature for flawless slicing.Multi Fresh features special controlled proofing cycles, preserving the deep taste, delicate texture, right crispness,digestibility and above all extended freshness over time of bread and other leavened products. It ensures the idealproofing and holding cycle (for example at night) for leavened products, until the right moment for baking. WithMulti Fresh the professional can choose the exact moment to have the product perfectly leavened and ready forbaking.Multi Fresh has more than 90 dynamic cycles for different specialities (e.g. pies, croissants, pastry dough, mous-ses, creams...). The right temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture, optimum chilling and freezing times foreach food type have been carefully studied, and a large number of innovative and patented features have beenadded, such as Multisensor, a probe equipped with multiple food temperature sensing points; MultiRack, a trayrack suited to any environment (pastry, catering, etc...) that can be adjusted in terms of length and width; Sanigen,an active ion sanitization system which guarantees total sanitization of the work chamber, food and utensils as itworks through the air, reaching the most inaccessible, hard to clean areas and making dirt "inactive".

www.irinox.com


In April 22-25 the Relais Desserts International met in Mulhouse, Alsace, in thenortheast of France, on the occasion of Rencontres Internationales Relais

Desserts. Their public meeting was organised by Michel and PatriciaBannwarth of Pâtisserie Jacques (www.patisserie-jacques.com).

They spent three days of professional exchange and visits and also or-ganized a cocktail party at the local Cité de l'Automobile (http://cite-

delautomobile.com/fr/home), one of the biggest car museums in the world,where they welcomed 1.400 guests. The Italian members – Iginio Massari,

Luigi Biasetto and Giovanni Pina – were present together with Gino Fabbri, thepresident of Accademia Pasticceri Italiani, as a guest of honour.

www.relais-desserts.net

Italians for Lyons

Originally conceived by the French MOF Gabriel Paillasson,the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie has been a referenceevent for pastry worldwide since 1989, revealing new talentsand trends. The last Italian selection phase took place in Ja-nuary during Sigep exhibition and the winners among 9 candi-dates were Francesco Boccia (chocolate), Marcello Boccia(sugar) and Riccardo Patalani (ice). The three young profes-sionals will represent Italy in Lyon, and they are now workinghard to face the most important pastry competition in theworld, which will take place the 27 and 28 January 2013 in-volving 22 countries. They are supported by the Club

Coupe du Monde-Selezione Italia and a group of sponsors (below), themembers of the Italian teams which participated in the last editions of theCoupe are also helping them during their practise. ww.cmpatisserie.com


19

“I am serious and motivated, with the desire to raise my profession to the highestlevels of excellence and quality”: these are the words with which the talented youngFrenchman Bastien Blanc-Tailleur loves to use when presenting himself, wordswhich sum up his ability and personality. We interviewed this twenty-year old Fren-chman, now working at the prestigious Café Carette in Paris, who is in love with pa-stry making and, in particular, with sugar art, which he develops with a style that ispersonal, mixed with artistic cross references

When did you realise you wanted to become a pastry chef?Very early on. As a child I liked cooking and, in particular, anything to do with sweets. My grandmo-ther was a very good cook and I loved her desserts and jams. So when I had to decide what to study,little by little I realised that I could only work in confectionery. It was hard because I do not come froma family of pastry chefs and I had to convince my parents in order to follow this path.How did you arrive at the Maison Pillon in Toulouse and what did you do there?My previous boss suggested I work there. I remained in Toulouse for three years, two years for myapprenticeship and one year as a chef de poste. I was in charge of the special orders, the piècemonté, the bases and the production of sugar decorations. However, since I didn’t need to dedi-cate all my time to this, I also dealt with the production of small cakes, together with a collea-gue.Instead now you have moved to the capital. Tell us about the Café Carette and yourduties. What does working in Paris mean to you?The Café Carette is a famous tearoom in the capital. The first one was opened in Place du Tro-cadero, right in front of the Eiffel Tower, and another tearoom has been opened re-cently in the romantic Place des Vosges. I have been working there for a fewmonths and I am continuing with my professional training, learning new or-ganization and work methods. The sweets are very beautiful, delicious,made with attention to detail and it is a great pleasure for me to partici-pate in this adventure. I wanted to move for more than a year, but I putoff moving in order to remain a little longer in Toulouseand to consolidate what I had learned

A QUESTION OF STYLE

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there. Paris remains the capital of thesweet-toothed and it is almost an inevitablepassage for all those who wish to come intocontact with the big maison. It gives a cer-tain prestige, even if it is not everything...You have taken part in several compe-titions, with gratifying results, such asthe 1st edition of the S.G. Sender Tro-phy in Lille, in 2010, in which you wereawarded first place both for the tastingand for the pièce in sugar. How did youarrive at the decision to put yourself tothe test? These competitions are an excellent meansto overcome ones limits. Moreover, at a cer-tain point, it became important to me tocompare myself with other professionals, in

order to grow. It took an enormous effort toprepare for the competitions, sometimes atthe expense of my personal life, but this wasa necessary sacrifice.Yours is a very elegant style, with anoriental imprint. Where do you get yourinspiration from? I get a lot of inspiration from Oriental art andfrom what I see around me. What follows isthe fruits of my elaboration. I read as muchas possible about different styles, with a pre-sent preference for Art Nouveau. I am al-ways trying to find new forms in order tomove away from the well trodden paths andto assert my own style.Which are the techniques that you prefer?Pulled sugar, even if I am certain that there

are still many aspects to be explored as re-gards the techniques of cast and blownsugar. Who are the professionals that you ad-mire?There are many. I really like what StéphaneLeroux does from an artistic point of viewand I am fascinated by the works in sugarand chocolate that can be admired on occa-sion of the competitions held in Asia, forexample Hofex or the Japan Cake Show. InFrance we are lucky to have numerous ex-cellent professionals who bring prestige tothis profession. I am a fan of the Tarte Va-nille by Pierre Hermé, of the verrine of theParisian confectioner’s Pain de Sucre andof course the cakes of Sadaharu Aoki...


Bigatton produces high quality ingredients not only for gelato makers but also for confectioners, offe-ring a wide choice of products intended for professionals, thus helping them to quicken their work.The company located in Portogruaro,near Venice, exports all over the worldand their products can be used any-time: the cannolo and copite line canserve as base products for the makingof mousses, creams, chantilly andother small delicacies. Their wafer can-nolo is a market leader product combi-ning wafer crunchiness with chocolatedelightfulness. www.bigatton.com



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In 2008 Bastien made his debut in theworld of competitions, developing theartistic side of his profession and ac-quiring the skill of working sugar. Hisartistic work distinguishes itself for itselegance and clean lines, with a prefe-rence for floral motifs and stylization,inspired by the orient and Art Nouveau.Rève Bleu is the title of the work thatopens the article.http://bastienpatisserie.over-blog.org

How do you see the future of your pro-fession in general?I am sure that the profession of pastry chefhas a positive future, even if it will be ne-cessary to play the card of luxury in order tostand out and to present products of excel-lent quality. There are still many avenues toexplore and the present spirit of emulationwhich is around the métiers de bouche is theproof.

C.Q.


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Rice gelato, chestnut sauce, Parmigiano cheese, puffed rice and Parma hamVialone nano veronese rice g 200milk l 1Boil the milk and rice together and cook for approx. 40 minutes. Liquidize and put to one side.

Rice gelatosaccharose g 300dextrose g 50carob g 10rice base g 500milk l 1 Piedmont hazelnut oil g 10Warm the milk to 40°C, add the powders and pasteurize. Leave to rest for 12 hours, then whipand pour into desired molds. If asses’ milk is used, add the hazelnut oil while whipping the ge-lato.

Chocolate puffed ricecocoa powder g 100Vialone nano rice g 200water l 1salt g 5sugar g 5Cook the rice with all the ingredients for 30 minutes, drain and then dry at a temperature of50°C for 15 minutes. Fry in hot oil and put to one side.

Milk and chestnut saucedried chestnuts g 500milk l 1Parmigiano cheese as requiredParma ham as requiredSoak the chestnuts overnight in cold water. In a saucepan fry the Parma ham, then, add the che-stnuts and milk. Cook. Sieve and flavour with the Parmigiano cheese. Leave to cool and put toone side.

Assemblyrice gelatochocolate puffed ricemilk chestnut and Parmigiano sauceParma hamPlace the rice gelato on a soup plate, add the puffed rice and the Parma ham.Serve the milk, chestnut and Parmigiano sauce at a temperature of 20°C.

Alberto MarchettiGelateria Marchetti, Turin

Igor MacchiaLa Credenza, San Maurizio Canavese, To

www.albertomarchetti.itwww.ristorantelacredenza.it

Photos Stefano Fusaro and Bob Noto


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Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - [email protected]

www.selmi-group.it

www.

sgsm

.it

Tunnel 400/800

Coating line

selmi tunnel giugno 2012.indd 1 22/05/12 15.51

Pastic.Intern._WorldWideEdition_EVD_220x320_TR.indd 1 21/05/12 10:37


The Italian team won the Gelato World Cup, which took place in Rimini in Januaryduring the last edition of Sigep. They were followed by France and Switzerland, andthe 13 competing teams were required to develop the theme "The fruits of theEarth and Sea" through an ice sculpture, a gourmet gelato specialty, a plated des-sert, a tub, a cone, a decorated cup, a chocolate sculpture, an entremets and a finalGrand Buffet.The following appetizer recipe represents a celebration of Italian cuisine and an ori-ginal gastronomic interpretation of national flavours and colours

Gelato on top OF THE WORLDBread gelatowater g 1839dextrose g 120milk g 120proteine g 30fruit base g 30bread g 360salt g 6extra virgin oil g 120fresh origanum, saltToast the bread and pass it into the refiner. Prepare the mixture withoutbread and let it stand 30 minutes. Pasteurize at 85°C. Combine the breadand origanum, micronise and blend the mixture in the gelato machine.

Tomato gelatopomodorini del piennolo ‘e curti* g 2000datterino tomatoes g 1000polyfloral honey g 100granulated sugar g 60salt g 30garlic g 3Sarawak pepper, fresh thyme, grated lemon peelWash the tomatoes and marinate them with the other ingredients. Bakeat 100°C for about 90 minutes. Sift.

tomato juice g 650water g 89trehalose g 40

dextrose g 60glucose g 100texture improver g 30fruit base g 10Maldon salt g 1Mix the dry ingredients and micronise them with the liquids for 2 minutes.Keep the mixture in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bring it to 70°C, thencool to 10°C and micronise for 2 minutes. Blend it in the gelato machine.

In Campania, since mid-nineteenth century there have been several cultivarsof pomodorini, but the most famous are the ones growing on the slopes ofVesuvius. The category pomodorino del piennolo includes many biotypes se-lected through decades by local farmers, who have given them colourful de-nominations. It’s an oval-shaped fruit with a pointed apex tip and frequentribbing on the peduncular part, a vermilion red thick skin, a weight not ex-ceeding 25 g, a red pulp of high consistence, a lively, intense, sweet andsour taste. The peculiarity is their antique conserving practise called al pien-nolo, i.e. ripe tomatoes are tied together in bunches forming big clusters,which are hanged at the roofs of rural farm houses.

White tomato jellybeefsteak tomatoes g 1000salt g 10Clean the tomatoes and mix them 2 minutes with the salt. Place in a sieveand let them drain for 3 hours. Freeze the liquid, mix it and place in a strai-ner with paper. Keep the water.tomato water g 250agar agar g 4salt

ITALIAN PORTRAITappetizer

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Mix agar agar with 100 dl of tomato water, then bring it to a boil. Com-bine the other water and salt. Put in molds and in the refrigerator untiluse. Warm in the oven at 70°C before serving.

Glacier lettuceglacier lettuce g 200extra virgin olive oil g 50lemon juice g 20grated lemon peel g 5sugar g 10Maldon salt g 2Sarawak white pepperWash the salad carefully. Mix the remaining ingredients and pass it to the chinoise. Dress the salad using a nebulizer.

Buffalo ricotta cheesebuffalo ricotta g 250Maldon salt, Sarawak white peppergelatine g 2mozzarella cheese whey g 50egg whites g 20Mix the buffalo ricotta cheese with gelatine, mozzarella cheese whey, saltand pepper. Put the mixture in molds and after in the blast chiller. Bakericotta at 180°C when serving it.

Basil macaronsalmond powder g 300icing sugar g 300egg whites g 110centrifuged basilPut in the robot coupe the almond powder and icing sugar. Sieve the mix-ture, add the whites and the centrifuged basil.

egg whites g 110granulated sugar g 30 + 300water g 100Bring 300 g of sugar and water at 110°C. Pour over the whites lightlywhisked with 30 g of sugar. Whisk until 32°C. Add the meringue to thefirst mixture. Spread on a silicone baking sheet and bake about 14 minu-tes with open valve.

Eggplant Parmigianafresh eggplants g 500salttapenade of taggiasche olives g 40miso g 40rice vinegar g 20water g 10sugar g 30extra virgin olive oil g 30Parmigiano Reggiano g 50buffalo mozzarella g 50green basilSarawak dark red pepperMaldon saltWash and peel the eggplants, cut them into slices and add the salt. Letthem dry for 2 hours, then cut into small cubes. Cook the cubes with allthe ingredients for about 1 hour, except the Parmigiano Reggiano and thebuffalo mozzarella. Add the cheeses, salt and pepper. Bring to 90°C be-fore serving.

Parmigiana (a short form of Parmigiana di melanzane) is an Italian dishmade with a shallow-fried sliced filling, layered with cheese and tomatosauce, then baked. Parmigiana made with a filling of eggplant (aubergine) is

the earliest version. In addition to the original recipe, many variations arefound most often in countries where large numbers of Italians immigrated.While parmigiana usually means "from Parma", a town in Northern Italy, thedish is not part of the cuisine of Parma, but is a Southern Italian dish (clai-med by both Campania and Sicily).

Salted sablé with taggiasche olivessalted butter g 60tapenade of taggiasche olives g 50trehalose g 60sucrose g 40flour g 100hazelnut flour g 100salt g 3Mix all ingredients to obtain a sablé. Put in refrigerator until use. Spreadit out to a thickness of 1 mm. Then cut it into 7 mm x 3 cm pieces andbake at 170°C.

Tapenade is a Provençal specialty consisting of puréed or finely choppedolives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Its name comes from the Provençalword for capers, tapenas, and it is a popular food in the south of France,where it is generally eaten as an hors d’œuvre, spread on bread.

Marinated red prawns in breadcrumb crustred prawns n. 30extra virgin olive oil g 50basil g 10salt g 3grated lemon peel g 15flour g 100eggs n. 5breadcrumbs g 100Maldon saltClean the prawns and put them under vacuum with extra virgin olive oil,basil, salt and lemon peel for about 3 hours. Cut them in half and leavethe inner end. Roll them in flour first, then into eggs and breadcrumbs. Frythem in cocoa butter until golden. Add salt and pepper.

Caper crispyrice flour g 50melted butter g 50egg whites g 30dried capers g 30sugar g 150Mix the dried capers with sugar and mix them with the other ingredients.Let them rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Spread out a thinlayer of caper mixture on Silpat using a spatula. Bake at 160°C until gol-den and form a spiral.

Confit and lemon oillemon n. 1sugar g 70water g 100extra virgin olive oil g 150Maldon saltPeel the rind of the lemon with a potato peeler, then cut it into juliennestrips. Make a syrup with sugar, water and lemon strips, and cook about20 minutes. Leave the peel in syrup for 1 hour. Emulsify the extra virginolive oil with 30 ml of lemon syrup, the juice of 1 lemon and Maldon salt.

Black olive oilextra virgin olive oil g 100taggiasche olives g 50 (dried in a oven at 60°C for 24 hours)arbutus honey g 30Emulsify all the ingredients.



Basil sorbetwater g 1665white cane sugar g 45dextrose g 90glucose g 240trehalose g 210inulin g 30fruit base g 30fresh basil g 300white cane sugar g 300lemon juice g 90Prepare the mixture without basil and lemon. Let it rest at least 30minutes. Mix the white cane sugar with fresh basil and lemonjuice. Pasteurize at 85°C, then cool and micronize with the mix-ture of basil. Blend in the gelato machine. Fill some sphericalmoulds of 2 cm diameter and freeze.

Fake tomatoes with basil flavortomato powder g 100basil sorbet balls n. 15tomato sauce g 500gelatine g 20Maldon salt, extra virgin olive oilStir and bring to 80°C the tomato sauce with gelatine and salt.Roll the basil sorbet balls in the tomato powder. When the gela-tin is at 60°C, dip the balls of sorbet with basil and keep at -12°C.Before serving, drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil.

Taggiasche olive powdertaggiasche olives g 150Dry in the oven at 60°C for 24 hours. Mix and sift.

Crystallized basil leaf with cocoa butter, sugar and saltbasil leaves n. 15cocoa butter, salt, sugarWash the basil leaves. Dip them in cocoa butter at 30°C and cry-stallize with salt and sugar. Allow to stand for one day.

ASSEMBLYPut the bread gelato on the dish, and place on it a cube of to-mato sorbet wrapped in tomato powder. On the cube place a cir-cle of caper crispy with a false tomato stuffed with basil sorbetand put a basil leaf on it. Place the glacier lettuce, the lemon con-fit and a macaron filled with some warm eggplant parmigiana andthen the salted sablé with taggiasche olives, some transparenttomato gelatine, the warm buffalo ricotta cheese and a red prawnin breadcrumb crust.

Ernst Knam, Leonardo Ceschin, Filippo NovelliFrancesco Falasconi, Andrea Olivero

in collaboration with Pierpaolo Magni e Diego Crosaraphotos Enrico Minasso

www.coppamondogelateria.it



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Liqueur excellence

The Luxardo family has owned a liqueur distillery for ne-arly 200 years. Named Girolamo Luxardo, the businessis based in Torreglia, near Padua, and is as committed asever to creating excellent liqueurs. Luxardo was originallyfounded in Zara, now the Croatian city of Zadar, underAustrian rule. Girolamo Luxardo, a gentleman and diplo-mat from Genova and his wife Maria Canevari moved there in 1817, and she began experimenting with liqueurs soon after. In 1821, Mr. Luxardofounded a distillery to produce Maraschino, and within eight years the liqueur had attracted the attention and approval of the Emperor of Austria.

The liqueur factory remained in Zara until the 1940s, when the city was considerably damaged in World War II. The only surviving fourth-generation Luxardo, Giorgio, moved to Torreglia: there he, along with younger Ni-colò, made a new start for an old brand, and the distillery has remained there untilthe present day, still owned completely by the family. Piero Luxardo is now the president of the company, and five other members arepart of the enterprise: Filippo, Matteo, Giorgio, Guido and Franco Luxardo. Thedistillery employs about 45 people, as well as about 100 salespeople throughoutItaly. Luxardo continues to create liqueurs, as well as flavoured aromas and pre-served fruit. The company is the worldwide market leader in Maraschino cherryliqueur production, and other popular liqueurs are Amaretto and Sambuca; thearomas are created in alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties and are fit for con-fectionery. They also produce jam and preserved maraschino cherries forcocktails. With a production of 6,000 bottles per hour, the 6,800 m2 factory is very self-sufficient and does most of its work in-house, being proud of the made in Italydesignation of products. The distillery has its own laboratory, quality manage-ment and automation equipment. “Our business’s compact size allows us tobe faster and more flexible, especially in creating new products and bringingthem to market,” says Franco Luxardo. The company even grows many of itsown fruits: the cherries needed for liqueurs and preserved maraschino cherries are produced by 22,000 Luxardo-owned Marascacherry trees. Alongside the classic, bestselling Maraschino cherry liqueur, Luxardo’s second flagship product is cherry Sangue Mor-lacco liqueur. About 2/3 of products are exported and sold through distributors in about 70 countries, especially in the UK, Canada, Japan and theUSA. Luxardo also participates in international trade shows, as opportunities for the company to showcase its wares and interact witha vast array of customers and potential leads. Moreover, in 2011 seven of the company’s liqueurs have been awarded bronze, silver, orgold medals in various international competitions. www.luxardo.it


The Tortaflex range by Silikomart is well known thanks to the high quality of itsmade-in-Italy silicone moulds. It has been enlarged including a new design ofthe traditional Savarin mould (SAV), which is now available in 2 diameters: ø180/60 h 50 mm and ø 160/80 h 40 mm. The latter can be used both indivi-dually and as an insert of the Savarin ø 180/60 h 50 mm mould. The twomoulds are sold either separately (single reference number) on a 60x40 cm po-lycarbonate tray containing 6 pieces of the same dimensions, or in a Kit (LadyQueen) composed of 3 plus 3 moulds. Their use allow to obtain flawless des-serts, which even though being traditional, have a touch of novelty. The two moulds were originally conceived by Silikomart for the Pastry Queencompetition of last Sigep, which involved women pastry professionals and waswon by the Italian Sonia Balacchi. www.silikomart.com

The Luxardo family. Above, Luxardo’s headquarter inTorreglia.



The man who has received all the most important awards in the cuisine field doesnot need a presentation: it is Massimo Bottura, chef at the Osteria Francescana inModena that with his affirmation, which gives the title to this piece, closes the inter-view

Three Michelin stars, fourth place in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurant Awards, title of Chef’sChoice, that is, the favourite among the best colleagues in the world; a rating of 19.75/20in the Espresso guide, Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine: these are only some of the most de-sirable awards won by one of the greatest representatives of Italian cuisine in the world. Weare speaking about Massimo Bottura, chef of the restaurant Osteria Francescana in Mo-dena who, in the heart of the old town, has created a modern and welcoming space, wherehe narrates the story of tradition in evolution. Dishes such as Compressione di pasta e fa-gioli (Compression of pasta and beans) and the Bollito non bollito (Boiled/not boiled meat)– contemporary vision of centuries of Italian cuisine influenced by experiences abroad – aresuch examples. There are three tasting menus, all having distinctive characteristics: the Tra-dizionale, which captures the classical side of the land of Modena without losing sight of theavant-garde. The Classic menu brings together those dishes that have traced a path linkedto the evolution of the raw materials, following the concept of Bottura “the territory seen froma distance of 10 km”, and instead consists of dishes such as Nero su nero (Black on black),Omaggio a T. Monk (Tribute to T. Monk); Le 5 stagionature del Parmigiano Reggianoin temperature e consistenze (The 5 maturings of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese in tem-perature and consistency); Ooops! Mi si è rotta la crostatina… (Oooops! The Tart is bro-ken…), and, lastly, the third menu, which is Le Sensazioni (The Sensations), the one in whichthe chef tries to mentally detach himself from his land, putting the technique on stage, in aglobal vision, in order to rediscover memories and sensations, with the clear aim of tran-smitting emotions. The same that we perceive also through the words of this interview whichhas been carried out over several meetings and which also features the pastry chef FrancoAliberti, who has just become a member of the team.

BUT WHY?!

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Massimo, let’s talk about you and yourcuisine: how would you define it? A cuisine of the territory, seen from a di-stance of 10 kilomentres. I drew on anidea by Gino DeDominicis, in which the ar-tist, urged by an important collector,agreed to paint this person’s portrait. Aftera couple of hours of “absolutely no-thing”, DeDominicis asked the model to in-spect the canvas and who, on seeing itblank, with only a black dot in the centre,irritated asked for an explanation: “It is yourportrait seen from a distance of 10 kilo-metres”. It is in these words that what I tryto express is enclosed: “my” territory, seenin a modern, up-to-date, contemporarylight.If you had to express yourself as adish, what would you choose?Tortellini.

You described your cuisine as being inevolution: what does this mean?Tradition is the result of successful experi-ments, and because of this traditionsshould be in constant evolution. As far asI am concerned, I try to give the best sup-port to the products of my territory, whichmust express themselves in a system ofself-sufficiency. This is a concept that isvery important to me: to be able to createa “system” on the territory, shortening thesupply chain so as to give an image of ourland that is solid and well-characterized.Tradition, innovation, art, fusion,music: how do all these aspects coe-xist in your dishes?My cuisine is contemporary, therefore, it isnormal that it is influenced by everyday life,without being swallowed up by it, though.At the same time, it is natural that it ex-

presses and gives form to my passions,such as art and music. Raw materials and technique: whichprevails?The idea. The technique and raw materialsare one at the service of the other in orderto achieve the idea.In your cuisine, is it the sweet that hascontaminated the savoury or vice-versa? What difference does it make? The impor-tant thing is to not see any boundaries.The dish must be good and healthy, any-thing else fades into the background.Which are, if any, the common pointsbetween cuisine and pastry making?At the Osteria Francescana there are nodifferences. It all belongs to one world, oneenvironment where ideas are exchangedand developed. What does a dessert represent insidea menu and how is it conceived?Exactly in the same way as the other di-shes, which often come from considera-tions and ideas around which they arecreated such as, for example, the answerto an abstract question we have askedourselves.What distinguishes a dessert?The fact that we consider it the final part ofa journey, the final image, the last memory.In fact our menu “Sensazioni” (Sensations)starts with a granita, the same that I ate atCorrado Assenza from Noto (Sicily), asweet-savoury prospective.Art and music, two constants thathave always accompanied life andwork: in what way have they left an in-

FRANCO ALIBERTI, THE NEW ENTRY AT THE OSTERIA FRANCESCANAHow is your experience in sensorial experimentation going?

It will be a starting point, something that will embrace, in a three dimensional way, all the aspects of gastronomy, from

savoury to bitter, which before I was missing. In the meantime, I will start with the pasta dishes.

Research for naturalness and experimentation. Where is the balance?

The respect for the raw materials, always and above all! Instead, the techniques give us the possibility to rediscover

the product within the dish, conveying a second life, there, right in front of the guest.

What would you like to “give” to this new adventure?

More than “give” it is a question of sharing. This is the right spirit in an environment like La Francescana: the sharing

of philosophy and ideas.

Desserts will always have a typically sweet tone or will research lead to other paths?

As I said before, the paths are long and full of surprises. We have started to work on the breakdown of the boundary

between savoury and sweet. An extreme breakdown, of 360 degrees, with an aim to eliminate any barrier in a conti-

nuous fusion of research and experimentation.

Play, nature, research, memory: which will be your path?

Join the dots… all of them!

SWEET TALKING



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Mint saucefresh peppermint g 250mineral water g 100xylitol g 30essential oil of mint g 0,5Boil some water in a small saucepan, blanch the mint for 10 seconds andcool down in water and ice. Liquidize the mint with the other ingredients,making sure the temperature does not rise over 35°C. Strain using a finemesh sieve.

Lemon Zabaione lemon juice g 80limoncello from the Amalfi Coast g 80egg yolks g 85 sugar g 50Prepare a saucepan of boiling water and a stainless steel bowl that canfit inside the saucepan.Once it has come to the boil, turn off the heat. Beat the egg yolks and thesugar in the bowl away from the heat. Start to whip energetically using awhisk, placing the bowl in bagnomaria adding first the lemon juice andafter, gradually add the limoncello.Whip until it is very light.

Lemongrass gelatofresh milk g 800cream g 200

lemongrass, pieces n. 10sugar g 120glucose syrup g 50lemon peel n. 2Place all ingredients inside the Termomix and bring to 85°C at speed 7.Once the temperature has been reached, turn off, filter and cool over ice.Pour the mixture into a recipient for the Pacojet and freeze.

Puff pastry cups with spices flour g 500 butter g 400icing sugar g 200egg yolks g 70mixed spices; star anise, cinnamon, juniper, pepper, cardamom g 20

Mix the butter and sugar together using the tips of the fingers so as toheat the butter as little as possible. Mix in the egg yolks and then the flour.Mix well. Leave to rest for 2 hours, roll out the tartlets and place in themoulds and bake for 8 minutes at 160°C. Serve as in photo, insertingcandied lemon (peel and pulp), aromatic vegetable charcoal, apple mo-starda, candied ginger, lemon powder.

Massimo BotturaRistorante La Francescana, Modena

www.lafrancescana.itPhotos by Paolo Terzi

Oooops! The tart is broken…

Mango. Breaking the boundary between sweet and savoury.

delible mark?They are my great passions through which, filtered by my memory,I try to transmit emotion.Looking abroad, from a gastronomical point of view, whichare the countries that intrigue you the most?Peru and Brasil. Which direction will the restaurant industry take in the nextfew years?Towards a new sense of group, of belonging, creating strong sy-nergies between chefs that work with common goals and aims,but in different territories. In Italy we already have a fantastic groupof friends, from North to South, which is only waiting to expand!This last year you have received important awards. What areyour projects for the future?In my future I see only the future.

One last question, for fun: Massimo Bottura interviewingMassimo Bottura: What would you like to ask yourself?But why?!

Monica OnnisPhotos by Paolo Terzi,

Per-Anders Horgensen, Elliot Erwitt

Imagine a cow grazing.


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The 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition, organized by Jimmy MacMillan, of JMPu-repastry and the Chicago School of Mold Making, assembled four of Chicago’s top pastrytalents to vie for the gold. Pastry chef Sarah Kosikowski, by Sixteen Restaurant at theTrump International Hotel Chicago, finished in top due to her technical ability, concise flavours,and clean planting of her dessert Choco Noix De Coco. She edged out her competitors on

the mistery box amuse challenge and collected the top prize. All the videos of thecompetition, the recipes and an interview with Sarah Kosikowski are on our website, www.piwwe.com

Waiting for the second time of theChicago Restaurant

PASTRY COMPETITION

Sarah Kosikowski is the winner of the1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Compe-tition. The dessert in this page is themistery box amuse Green Tea Semi-freddo Bar Yumberry Foam, AmarenaCherry (photo by Anthony Tahlier).

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extra

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Yields 8 portions

Flexible Cocoa Sablé (base)cold diced butter g 66flour g 75cocoa powder g 43almond flour g 6610x sugar g 54grape seed oil g 15Tainori chocolate 64% g 33Combine all dry ingredients on a Kitchenaid and mix with paddle. Addcold butter and mix just until a coarse meal texture is acquired. Place ona Silpat and bake at 163°C (325°F) for 15 minutes, stirring and rotatingduring baking. Cool and process in a robot coupe with oil and meltedchocolate until smooth. Roll dough between two Silpats and freeze untilfirm. Use rectangle rings to cut bases and keep frozen until ready to use.

Coconut Fluid Gel Insertscoconut puree + more for blending g 400agar g 4.4sugar g 38dark rum g 48coconut extract g 7.2pandan extract g 0.5Heat puree in a saucepan. Combine sugar and agar, whisk into pureeand bring to a boil. Boil for 1-2 minutes, remove from heat and add rumand extracts. Pour into a shallow pan and refrigerate until set. Place inVita-Prep and blend until very smooth, adding more liquid if needed. Pourgel into a piping bag and fill Fleximolds. Freeze until solid and unmold.Keep frozen until ready to use.

Chocolate Crèmemilk g 563cream g 63sugar g 25agar g 3.8gelatin mass g 17.5cream g 250milk chocolate g 375chocolate 64% g 63Combine milk, cream, sugar and agar and bring to a boil. Add gelatinmass to hot liquid and stir to melt. Combine chocolates and melt to 40°C.Slowly pour hot liquid over chocolate and create an emulsion. Burr mixand set aside to cool. Lightly whip 2nd cream and fold into chocolatemixture when it reaches 38°C. Fill rectangular rings (with sablé base)half way, insert frozen coconut tube and cover with chocolate cream. Letset in cooler until firm. Unmold by warming ring with a torch and trimedges with a hot knife before serving.

Coconut Rochermilk chocolate g 235feulletine g 106coconut rapè g 14sliced almonds g 62Muscovado streusel g 82qinqer saltas neededToast coconut and sliced almonds separately and set aside to cool. Com-bine all ingredients except chocolate. Temper chocolate, pour over mix-

ture and gently fold. Spread onto a silpat and sprinkle with ginger salt.Once set, break into pieces and use as garnish.

White Cinnamon Confiture de Laitwhite cinnamon g 1milk g 665sugar g 165salt g 1Tahitian vanilla bean n. 1Combine all ingredients except cinnamon in a saucepan and cook onmed-high heat until thickened (about 1 hour). Remove from heat andstrain. Add cinnamon and burr mix to a smooth consistency. Refrigerateuntil ready to use.

Brown Butter Sorbetwater g 430xanthan gum g 2.7brown butter solids g 53dextrose g 27sugar g 130trimoline g 33salt g 2.7Boil the water and place in a high speed blender with the xanthan. Blendon high until all the xanthan is absorbed. Add the brown butter solids andcontinue to blend until completely dissolved. Add the remaining ingre-dients and blend smooth. Strain through a chinois into Paco Jet contai-ners and freeze. Spin and serve.

Caramel Caviarcream soda g 100sodium alginate g 0,8vanilla sugar g 4gold dust g 0.1caramel paste g 5water g 300calcium chloride g 3Combine sodium alginate with sugar and gold dust. Combine cream sodaand caramel paste and burr mix in dry mixture. Combine water and cal-cium chloride. Place caramel liquid in a squeeze bottle and pipe dropletsinto calcium chloride solution. Immediately remove with a slotted spoonand place in clean cold water. Chill until ready to serve.

Chocolate Toastflour g 175cocoa powder g 65baking powder g 2baking soda g 1.5salt g 1.5vanilla extract g 6milk g 19butter g 170sugar g 318eggs g 125sour cream g 140Combine all dry ingredients and set aside. Cream butter and sugar untilfluffy and add vanilla and milk. Add eggs slowly, scraping down severaltimes. Alternate adding the sour cream and the dry mixture until everythingis incorporated.Bake in a half hotel pan lined with parchment and sprayed at 163°C(325°F) for 12 minutes. Let cake cool slightly, then unmold and freeze.When very firm, slice on a mandolin and place on a silpan. Toast at 149°C(300°F) for 12 minutes. Cool and remove from silpan; use as garnish.

AssemblyTake chocolate crème (finished with cocoa sablé base and coconut fluidgel insert) and unmold from ring using a torch. Trim ends with a hot knifeto expose insert. Using a spoon, drag two lines of confiture de lait acrossa large rectangle plate. Place a chocolate curl in the centre of the plate.Carefully lay the chocolate crème directly in the centre of the curl. Crusha small amount of the rocher to hold sorbet and sprinkle on top of thecream, along with two larger pieces of rocher. Add a teaspoon of caviarto the plate on each side of the crème, along with a few drops of coco-nut syrup. Quenelle sorbet and put directly on the middle of the crème.Finish with two slices of chocolate toast. Serve and enjoy.

Sarah Kosikowski

Choco Noix de Coco

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Pasticceria Internazionale

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