On Baking...On Baking focuses on learning the hows and whys of baking. Each section starts with...

On BakingA TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS | FOURTH EDITION

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Revel for On Baking Fourth Edition

New for this edition, On Baking is now available in Revel—an engag-ing, seamless, digital learning experi-ence. The instruction, practice, and assessments provided are based on learning science. The assignability and tracking tools in Revel let you gauge your students’ understanding and engagement in and out of the classroom. This visibility into student performance, paired with your stu-dents’ renewed energy for the mate-rial, empowers you to spend your class time on the meaningful instruc-tion that only you can deliver. For more details, see the Comprehensive Teaching and Learning Package page ix.

Approach and Philosophy of

On BakingThis new fourth edition of On Baking: A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals follows the model established in our previous editions, which have prepared thousands of students for successful careers in the baking and pastry arts by building a strong foun-dation based upon proven techniques. On Baking focuses on learning the hows and whys of baking. Each section starts with general procedures, highlighting fundamental principles and skills, and then presents specific applications and sample recipes or for-mulas, as they are called in the bakeshop. Core baking and pastry principles are explained as the background for learning proper techniques. Once mastered, these techniques can be used to prepare a wide array of baked goods, pastries and confections. The baking and pastry arts are shown in a cultural and historical context as well, so that students understand how different techniques and flavor profiles developed.

Chapters are grouped into four areas essential to a well-rounded baking and pastry professional:

❶ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field with material on culinary and baking history, food safety, tools, ingredients and baking science.

❷ Breads Five chapters focus on breadmaking, from basic quickbreads to yeast breads and advanced artisan specialties such as sourdough breads and laminated doughs.

❸ Desserts and Pastries Fundamental baking techniques used in the preparation of cookies, pies, creams, custards, cakes and frozen desserts are explained and then demonstrated with a wide range of formulas for components and finished products. A chapter on healthy baking and special dietary needs concludes this section.

❹ Advanced Pastry Work Chapters on tortes and entremets, petits fours, chocolate, plated desserts, sugar work and confections demonstrate advanced concepts and techniques.

UPDATES◾ Three new chapters expand coverage of yeast breads, cake assembly and sugar work.◾ More than 375 new photographs and illustrations provide clear representations of

core preparations that are the foundation of any good baking textbook.◾ Over 60 new formulas and variations reflect up-to-the-minute trends in bakeries and

foodservice operations.◾ New step-by-step photographs emphasize stages in making key products such as

yeast and sourdough breads, doughnuts, laminated dough, cake batters and pie crust, as well as cake decorating, torte assembly and advanced confectionery techniques.

◾ New photographs illustrate contemporary plate presentation styles to help stu-dents in their mastery of plating and presentation.

◾ Content revisions and updates were written to improve readability and align proce-dures, photos and recipes more closely.

◾ Content updates reflect current trends in the world of baking and pastry, such as the interest in food safety, gluten-free baking, use of whole grains, plant-based foods and advanced bread, pastry and confectionary techniques.

◾ Enhanced food science coverage highlights the functions of ingredients with additional information on flavor wheels.

◾ Expanded tables and troubleshooting content is included throughout the text to help students master fundamental bakeshop items such as puff pastry, pies, éclair paste and pastry cream.

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Visual GuideEasy to navigate, On Baking is divided into bite-sized subsections to optimize the learning process. We invite you to explore this new edition with the follow-ing guided tour through the features included.

120 C H A P T E R F I V E

After studying this chapter, you will be able to:

▶ describe and use various mixing methods, and explain the importance of gluten and moisture in mixing

▶ describe the three primary forms of heat transfer and explain how heat affects batters and doughs

▶ describe the various baking and cook-ing methods employed in the bakeshop

▶ describe the stages of the baking process

▶ explain the science of taste and basic flavor principles

▶ apply the science of taste and basic flavor principles

Baking is a science that relies upon chemistry and the physics of heat transfer, plus a dash of microbiology. The actions that take place for a mixture of flour, fat and water to become a finished product are a function of scientific principles.

Understanding this allows you to select ingredients and work with formulas more easily. Though a degree in chemistry or physics is not a prerequisite for working in the bake-shop, a good understanding of the everyday science of the kitchen is fundamental to success. You will find different aspects of the principles discussed in this chapter demon-strated and expanded upon throughout this text.

MIXING METHODS AND TECHNIQUESThe first step in the production of breads, pastries and other bakeshop products is the measuring of ingredients as discussed in Chapter 4, Mise en Place. Once measured, ingredients must be mixed or combined correctly in order to achieve the desired results. The techniques used to mix or combine ingredients affect the baked good’s final volume, appearance and texture. Mixing assists with the following:

▪▪ Even distribution of dry and liquid ingredients.▪▪ Breakdown of fats and liquids, causing them to blend or emulsify. Fats do not

readily combine with water. Various mixing methods help fats to emulsify with liquids into a homogenous mixture (a mixture that is consistent throughout).

▪▪ Activation of the proteins in wheat flour, causing the formation of the elastic structure called gluten. Gluten development is affected by factors including mixing technique, fat, moisture, formula type and ingredients.

▪▪ Incorporation of air into a mixture (aeration) to help it rise and develop a light texture when baked.

Correctly employing a variety of different mixing methods can accomplish many things with only a few basic ingredients. (See Table 5.1.) For example, mixing methods such as blending, folding, sifting and stirring ensure that ingredients are properly combined. Cutting also combines ingredients, in this case solid fat and dry ingredients, in a specific way to ensure that a dough bakes into a flaky crust or cookie. Beating, creaming, kneading and whipping incorporate air into a batter, dough or foam during mixing.

Pockets of air (air cells) gives baked goods their final texture after baking. A buttery cake batter or tender sandwich bread has many tiny, even air cells, which give a slice of the cake or bread a uniform fine texture or crumb. These air cells are created exclusively during the mixing process.

Normally, fats do not blend with water. Beating, blending, creaming, kneading and stirring break up fats into tiny particles, allowing them to blend with liquids into a homog-enous mixture. Learn the difference in the mixing techniques described in Table 5.1, then use the designated method with the appropriate equipment or tool to ensure a good-quality finished product. Subsequent chapters in this book explore how using these mixing techniques, combined with various production methods and ingredients, creates a variety of distinct baked items.

The Importance of GlutenGluten is the tough, rubbery network of proteins created when wheat flour is mixed with liquids. Gluten helps make country bread chewy and pound cake light and tender. Flour does not contain gluten; only a dough or batter can contain gluten. Gluten is formed when the proteins glutenin and gliadin in wheat flour are moistened or hydrated during the mixing process.

Gluten development is affected by a number of factors, including mixing technique and the presence of fat and moisture. Generally, the longer a substance is mixed, the

emulsify to combine a fat and a liquid into a homogeneous mixture by properly blending ingredients

aerate to incorporate air into a mixture through sifting and mixing; to whip air into a mixture to lighten it, such as beating egg whites to a foam

crumb the interior of bread or cake; may be elastic, aerated, fine or coarse grained

The fine crumb in sandwich bread.

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Chapter Introduction ▲

Introductory paragraphs summarize the main themes in each chapter

and help reinforce topics.

Margin Definitions

▲

Important terms are defined in margin notes

to help with retention of new vocabulary and

terminology.



















































Safety AlertsBrief notes highlight safety

issues and stress the impor-tance of incorporating food

safety and sanitation into regular kitchen activities.

P R O F E S S I O N A L I S M A N D F O O D S A F E T Y 15

Proper cleaning procedures prevent cross-contamination. The following steps can help kitchen staff decrease the risk of an illness being spread by poor personal hygiene:

▪▪ Wash hands frequently and thoroughly. Gloves are not a substitute for proper hand washing.

▪▪ Wash hands after using cell phones, tablet and laptop computers, shared pens or pencils and other objects that can harbor harmful bacteria and microorganisms.

▪▪ Keep fingernails short, clean and neat. Do not bite nails or wear nail polish, which poses a chemical contamination hazard.

▪▪ Keep cuts or wounds antiseptically bandaged. An injured hand should also be covered with a disposable glove.

▪▪ Bathe daily, or more often if required.▪▪ Keep hair clean and restrained.▪▪ Wear work clothes that are clean and neat. Avoid wearing jewelry or watches.▪▪ Do not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in food preparation areas.

Safety Alert

Single-Use Gloves

Wearing clean single-use disposable gloves is the best way to avoid bare hand contact with ready-to-eat foods such as pies and sandwiches, or when garnishing or portioning baked goods such as cook-ies, cakes or brownies.

Procedure for Proper Hand Washing

❶ Using hot water (100°F/38°C), rinse hands and forearms.

❷ Apply an antibacterial soap. ❸ Rub hands and arms briskly with soapy lather for at least 20 seconds.

❹ Scrub between fingers and clean nails with a clean nail brush.

❺ Rinse thoroughly under hot running water. Reapply soap and scrub hands and forearms for another 5 to 10 seconds. Rinse again.

❻ Dry hands and arms using a single-use towel or appropriate hand dryer; use the towel to turn off the water. Discard the towel in a trash receptacle.

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▲168 C H A P T E R S E V E N

Bread making dates back to ancient times. Over the centuries, bakers have learned to manipulate the basic ingredients—flour, water, salt and leavening—to produce a vast variety of breads. Thin-crusted baguettes, tender Parker House rolls, crisp

flatbreads and chewy bagels are created by careful selection and handling of the same key ingredients. A renewed interest in the traditional craft of baking has seen many new artisan bread bakeries open in recent years. Customers are demanding, and more restaurants are serving, exciting bread assortments at every meal. Although few baked goods intimidate novice bakers as much as yeast breads, few are actually as forgiving to prepare. By master-ing basic procedures and techniques, bakers and pastry chefs can offer their customers delicious, freshly-baked goods made with yeast.

We divide yeast breads into three major categories: basic lean doughs, naturally- leavened and rye breads, and rich doughs. Basic lean doughs, such as those used to make crusty French and Italian breads, rolls and sandwich loaves, contain little or no sugar or fat. Such doughs are the focus of this chapter. Naturally-leavened and rye breads are made from lean doughs that require special handling to bring out their unique flavor. They are discussed in Chapter 8, Preferments and Natural Starters. Rich doughs, such as brioche and challah doughs, contain significantly more sugar and fat than lean doughs. Rich doughs bake into softer products with a tender crust and interior crumb. These are discussed in Chapter 9, Enriched Yeast Breads. A specific type of rich, flaky dough is made by incorporating layers of fat and flour, referred to as lamination. This dough is covered in Chapter 10, Laminated Doughs.

This chapter covers in detail the basic production techniques for making lean doughs and basic yeast bread products. The principles in this chapter apply to working with all types of yeast-raised products, including naturally leavened sourdough breads discussed in Chapter 8, Preferments and Natural Starters. To set yourself up for success, you may want to reread the discussion of the function of ingredients in Chapter 3, Bakeshop Ingredients, before beginning this chapter.

YEASTYeast breads are made from dough prepared with yeast. Under the right conditions, yeast acts as a leavener in dough, causing it to rise and become less dense. Yeast is a living organism, a one-celled fungus. It is a biological leavening agent, as opposed to a chemi-cal leavening agent. Chemical leavening agents are discussed in Chapter 6, Quick Breads. Various strains of yeast are present virtually everywhere. Yeast feeds on carbohydrates present in the starches and sugars in bread dough, converting them to carbon dioxide and ethanol, an alcohol, in a process known as fermentation:

Yeast 1 Carbohydrates 5 Alcohol 1 Carbon Dioxide

When yeast releases carbon dioxide gas during bread making, the gas becomes trapped in the dough’s gluten network. (See Chapter 5, Principles of Baking, page 119.) The trapped gas leavens the bread, providing the desired rise and texture. The small amount of alcohol produced by fermentation evaporates during baking.

Temperature, Moisture and SaltAs with most living things, yeast is very sensitive to temperature and moisture. It prefers temperatures between 75°F and 95°F (24°C and 35°C). At temperatures below 34°F (2°C),

fermentation the process by which yeast converts starch and sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide; it also refers to the time that yeast dough is left to rise—that is, the time it takes for carbon dioxide gas cells to form and become trapped in the gluten network


▶ select and use yeast properly

▶ describe and carry out the 10 stages involved in yeast bread production

▶ prepare a variety of yeast breads, bagels, flatbreads, and other bread varieties

▶ identify the qualities of well-crafted bread


▲ Learning Objectives Each chapter begins with clearly stated objectives that focus on what students can achieve by completing the material.


Product Identification

▲

Hundreds of original photographs that identify ingredients, tools and equipment are provided. Written descriptions explore a huge variety of

foods, such as fruits, sugars, nuts and chocolates, as well as portioning tools, cookware and bakeware.

iv

Procedures for …Featured procedures for doing a specific technique include step-by-step instructions and photographs of various stages in preparing ingredients or ex-ecuting a technique. These summaries encourage proper mise en place and organization.

▲

P I E S A N D T A R T S 381

Baking Pies and CrustsPie crusts can be filled and then baked, or baked and then filled. Prebaked pie crusts are used with fillings that do not require cooking. Bake filled pie crusts near the bottom of the oven to ensure that the bottom crust cooks thoroughly. Using mealy pie dough for the bottom crust when baking filled pie crusts helps prevent sogginess. Pies may also be placed on preheated sheet pans before loading the oven. When baking filled pies, if the edge of the crust browns too quickly, cover it with foil, then continue baking. Lowering the temperature during baking can also help prevent crusts from browning too quickly.

As noted earlier, pie crusts that are baked before being filled are said to be baked blind. To help crusts retain their shape, bakers may prick small holes in the pie shell dough with a fork or paring knife, a technique known as docking, before baking. The unbaked pie shell should be lined with parchment paper or greased aluminum foil (greased side down) and filled with pie (baking) weights, dry raw rice or dried beans. An empty pie or tart pan may be used as a baking weight when making blind-baked pie or tart shells. (Weights are needed to keep the sides of the pie or tart shell from collapsing.) Bake the pie shell at 350°F (180°C) until the crust has set so it will not puff up. This typi-cally takes 10–15 minutes or longer, depending on the size of the pan and the thickness of the dough. After the crust is set, remove the weights, dock the dough again if needed and return the shell to the oven to finish baking for approximately 10–15 minutes more. Note that the rice or beans may be reused several times for future pies or tarts, but should not be cooked and consumed.

To help retain crispness once filled, the crust may be coated with a thin layer of egg wash during the final minutes of baking. A baked crust can also be brushed with a thin layer of caramel or melted chocolate for the same effect. Unfilled baked crusts can be stored at room temperature 2–3 days, or wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen as long as 3 months.

docking pricking small holes in an unbaked dough or crust to allow steam to escape and to prevent the dough from rising when baked

Placing a second tartlet pan on top of the dough to prevent it from puffing as it bakes.

❶ Line the pie or tart pan or ring mold with dough. Dock the dough with a fork, if desired. Chill for 1 hour to maintain the shape during baking. Cut a piece of parch-ment paper into a round that is slightly larger than the pan. Using scissors, cut the edge of the paper into ½-inch- (1.2-centimeter-) wide strips the depth of the pan so that it will fit into the shell.

❷ Press the parchment paper against the walls of the shell, allowing a portion of it to extend above the pan. Fill the pan with pie weights, raw rice or dried beans. Bake the weighted crust at 350°F (180°C) for 10–15 minutes.

❸ Lift off the paper to remove the weights. Dock the crust with a fork and return it to the oven. Bake until golden brown, approximately 10–15 minutes. Cool, then fill as desired.

Procedure for Blind Baking a Pie or Tart Shell


32 C H A P T E R T W O

a shallow rim on only one side; this makes it easy to slide items off after baking. When making cookies, bright, shiny baking sheets promote even browning. Perforated sheet pans may be used when baking bread and pastries in a convection oven; the holes allow more air to come in direct contact with the dough, resulting in a crisp crust. Adjustable frames, called pan extenders, made from stainless steel or ovenproof plastic the same dimension as sheet pans, are available. Pan extenders protect the edges of the product during baking and increase the height of the pan, so they may be used for baking large sheet cakes.

Hotel PansHotel pans (also known as steam table pans) are rectangular stain-less steel pans designed to hold food for service in steam tables. Hotel pans are also used for baking, roast-ing or poaching inside an oven. Perforated hotel pans, which are useful for draining, steam-ing or cooling foods down with ice, are also available. The standard full-size hotel pan is 12 inches × 20 inches (30 centimeters × 50 centimeters). Hotel pans that are one-half, one-third, one-sixth and other fractions of this size are also available. Hotel pan depth is standardized at 2 inches (referred to as a “200 pan”), 4 inches, 6 inches and 8 inches (5, 10, 15 and 20 centimeters).

Tart PansTart pans come in individual and large sizes and in round, rectangular and square shapes. Some have fluted edges or removable bottoms, making removing the baked pastry from the pan easier.

Cake and Bread PansProperly designed cake pans heat evenly to allow delicate batters to rise properly. Most commercial cake pans are made from a heavy 16–20 gauge aluminum and come in a variety of sizes. Angel food, Bundt and kugelhopf pans are round pans with hollow cones in their center; they are also known as tube pans. This design brings heat to the interior of the batter and is beneficial when baking heavy batters, as well as delicate egg foam cakes.

Most bread pans are made from heavy-gauge alu-minum or coated steel in a variety of rectangular shapes. When bread pans are joined together in a frame, they are called strap pans. This de-sign allows the baker to easily move a large number of pans in and out of the oven at one time.

Springform pans have a removable bottom and sides that release with the flip of a spring mechanism. Cheesecakes and fragile desserts that would be difficult to unmold are often baked in springform pans.

Flan rings, which are also called ring molds, are strips of coated steel curved and formed into rings. They look like bottomless cake pans. These rings are placed on a sheet pan and are used to mold or contain mousses and ice creams before chilling. Layers of baked cake and filling may be placed in a ring mold to make a European-style torte, which would be difficult to unmold from a standard cake pan. Once the ring is removed, the mousse or torte maintains the mold’s shape.

Muffin pans make it possible to bake a number of individual quick breads or cup-cakes at one time. Large sheets of smaller molds, such as those used to make popovers, tartlets or madeleine cookies, speed the production of these items.

Full- and half-size sheet pans

Hotel pan

Assortment of bread pans, strap pans, tube pans and specialty cake pans

Square cake pans

Tart pan with removable bottom

Springform pan

Flan rings or ring molds


26 C H A P T E R T W O

Balance or baker’s scale

100

200300

400

500600

700

800

900 20

4060

8020

4060

8020

4060

80

20406080

20406080

20

4060

80

2040

6080

2040

6080

2040

6080

20

GRAMS

0 1 23

45

67

89

1011

1213

1415

161718192021

22

2324

2526

2728

2930

31

32

3433

40 60 80

0

oz.

kg.1

1000g. x 5g.

340z. x 1/4oz

Portion scale

Electronic digital scale

reinforced to take pressure. Most kitchens have a set of round cutters in graduated sizes and a rolling cutter. Rolling cutters consist of one or more round blades mounted in a handle. They are used to portion pizzas, trim edges on pastry before bak-ing or leave a decorative impression on dough. Also known as pastry wheels, rolling cutters with multiple blades cut several strips of dough at one time. A doughnut cutter is a 4-inch (10-centimeter) round cutter with a smaller circular cutter mounted in the center. On some doughnut cutter models, a lever releases the small center piece of dough, which becomes the doughnut hole once fried (see page 253).

MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICESThe precise measurement of ingredients is important, especially in the bakeshop. Accu-racy in measurement is key to producing high quality and consistent results. Batters and doughs are measured before baking to provide uniform baking times and to control portion size and cost. Scales, measuring devices and temperature gauges are essential equipment in a well-equipped kitchen.

Measurements may be based on weight (e.g., grams, ounces, pounds) or volume (e.g., teaspoons, cups, liters) as we discuss in Chapter 4, Mise en Place. Therefore, it is neces-sary to possess several measuring devices, including a variety of scales as well as liquid and dry measuring cups. Thermometers and timers are also measuring devices, and we include them in this discussion. When purchasing any measuring device, look for quality construction and accurate markings.

ScalesScales determine the weight of an ingredient or a portion of food (e.g., individual pieces of dough for dinner rolls). Weighing ingredients in the bakeshop ensures the most accurate results. Balance scales (also known as baker’s scales) employ a two-tray and free-weight counterbalance system. A curved scaling bowl, called a hopper, holds dry ingredients on one side of the scale. Counterweights graduated in ¼-ounce (7-gram) increments balance the weight on the other side. A desired weight is set using the coun-terweights and then dry ingredients are added to the scaling bowl. When both trays are level, the desired quantity has been measured (see page 103).

Portion scales use a spring mechanism, round dial and single flat tray. They are avail-able calibrated in grams, ounces or pounds. Capacity varies; portion models accommodate up to 2 pounds in ¼-ounce increments, while larger-capacity scales measure in ½-pound increments up to 25 pounds (or the metric equivalent). Electronic scales also use a spring mechanism but provide digital readouts in ½0-, 1∕10- or 1∕5-ounce (1-, 2- or 5-gram) incre-ments. An automatic tare feature allows the user to ignore the weight of any container used to hold loose ingredients on the scale. This feature makes accurate measuring more convenient. A scale’s accuracy depends on the model and precision, not its construction. Digital electronic scales, for example, may be readable to 0.05 ounce (1 gram). This means

Doughnut cutter

Rolling cutter


74 C H A P T E R T H R E E

KumquatsKumquats are bite-sized oval fruits with a soft, sweet skin and slightly bitter flesh. They can be eaten whole, either raw or preserved in syrup or jam.

LemonsThe most commonly used citrus fruits are the oval, bright yellow lemons (Fr. citrons). Their strongly acidic flavor makes them unpleasant to eat raw but perfect for fla-voring desserts and confections. Lemon zest is can-died or used as garnish. The round, smooth-skinned, juicy Meyer lemon has a sweet, less-acidic flavor and a strong aroma.

LimesLimes (Fr. citrons verts; Sp. limóns verdes) are similar to lem-ons in appearance, but they have thin skins ranging from yellow-green to dark green. Limes are too tart to eat raw; they are sometimes used interchangeably with lemons. Their juice adds its distinctive flavor to ices, curds and sorbet. Lime zest can be grated and used to give color and flavor to a variety of dishes. The key lime is a smaller tart lime variety native to South Florida used to make key lime pie.

OrangesOranges (Sp. naranjas) are round and have juicy, orange-colored flesh and thin orange-colored skins. They can be either sweet or bitter.

Valencia oranges and navel oranges (a seed-less variety) are the most popular sweet oranges. The juice is used for beverages, as the liquid in cake batter and for sauces and sorbets. Orange flesh may be eaten raw, cooked in desserts and used as a garnish. Orange zest may be grated or julienned for use as a flavoring or garnish. Blood oranges are also sweet but are smaller, with a rough, reddish skin. Their flesh is streaked with a blood-red color. When selecting sweet oranges, look for fruits that feel plump and heavy, with unblemished skin. The color of the skin depends on weather conditions; a green rind does not affect the flavor of the flesh.

Bitter oranges, such as the Seville and bergamot, are used primarily for the essential oils found in their zest. Oil of bergamot gives Earl Grey tea its distinc-tive flavor. Oil of Seville is essential to flavor the liqueurs Curaçao, and Grand Marnier as well as orange flower water. Seville oranges are also used to make marmalades.

Mandarin OrangesMandarin oranges are a group of small citruses, 3–4 inches (7.5–10 centimeters) in size, characterized by their loose, thin peels and intense flavor. Clementines, satsuma manda-rins and tangerines have dark orange to red-orange skin. Their rinds are loose and eas-ily removed to reveal sweet, juicy, aromatic segments. Mandarin oranges are most often eaten fresh and uncooked but are available canned.

Lemons

LimesKey limes

Kumquats

Navel oranges

Valencia oranges

Blood oranges

Tangerines


IconsFormulas are marked with various icons to indicate at a glance those addressing health and dietary concerns. The icon shown here identifies formulas that are good choices for health-conscious diners.

▲

516 C H A P T E R F I F T E E N

MOCHA TORTE

Y I E L D 3 Cakes, approximately 8½ in. 3 5½ in. (22 cm 3 14 cm) each

Vanilla Spongecake (page 476) 1 full sheet 1 full sheetSimple Syrup (page 56) 9 fl. oz. 270 mlCoffee liqueur 3 fl. oz. 90 mlItalian Buttercream (page 483)

or other type of buttercream2 lb. 6 oz. 1140 g

Coffee extract 1 fl. oz. 30 mlCandied Almonds (recipe follows) 12 oz. 360 g

1 Trim the edges of the Vanilla Spongecake. Cut it into three 16-inch 3 8-inch (41-centimeter 3 20-centimeter) strips. Place one strip on a parchment paper–lined sheet pan.

2 Combine the Simple Syrup with the coffee liqueur, and moisten the cake strip with 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliters) of the coffee syrup.

3 Combine the Italian Buttercream with the coffee extract. Place slightly more than one-third of the coffee buttercream on the cake strip, and spread it evenly using an offset spatula.

4 Place another cake strip over the buttercream. Moisten it with one-third of the syrup. Spread another one-third of the buttercream over the cake strip.

5 Set another cake strip over the buttercream. Moisten with the remaining syrup.

6 Spread the remaining buttercream evenly on the surface of the assembled cake layers.

7 Refrigerate the cake until the buttercream sets. Once the icing is firm, divide the cake into three equal pieces. Place each piece on a cake board. Garnish the cakes with Candied Almonds.

Approximate values per 1∕10-cake serving: Calories 390, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 10 g, Cholesterol 110 mg, Sodium 200 mg, Total carbohydrates 46 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 15%

CANDIED ALMONDS

Y I E L D 8 oz. (240 g)

Egg whites 2 oz. (2 whites) 60 gGranulated sugar 2 oz. 60 gSliced almonds 8 oz. 240 g

1 Whisk the egg whites and sugar together. Add the almonds. Toss with a rubber spatula to coat the nuts completely.

2 Spread the nuts in a thin layer on a lightly greased sheet pan. Bake at 325°F (160°C) until lightly toasted and dry, approximately 15–20 minutes. Watch closely to prevent burning.

3 Stir the nuts with a metal spatula every 5–7 minutes during baking.

4 Cool nuts completely. Store in an airtight container up to 10 days.

Variation:

Candied Pecans or Walnuts—Substitute pecan or walnut halves for the sliced almonds. Bake at 300°F (149°C) until lightly toasted and dry, 25–30 minutes.

Approximate values per serving: Calories 160, Total fat 10 g, Saturated fat 1 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 10 mg, Total carbohydrates 10 g, Protein 6 g, Claims—gluten free, no saturated fat; no cholesterol; very low sodium

Good Choice

❶ Moistening the cake strip with the coffee syrup.

❷ Spreading the coffee buttercream over the moistened cake strip.

❸ Garnishing the finished cake with Candied Almonds.


H E A L T H Y B A K I N G A N D S P E C I A L D I E T S 625

AQUAFABA ITALIAN MERINGUE (VEGAN)

This Italian meringue is made with aquafaba, the syrupy liquid in which beans have been cooked. Like Ital-ian meringue prepared with egg whites, this vegan version can be piped into decorative designs on the top of cakes, pies and tarts.

Y I E L D 1 lb. 4 oz. (600 g)

Aquafaba 6 fl. oz. 180 mlGranulated sugar 12 oz. 360 gWater 4 fl. oz. 120 ml

1 Place the aquafaba in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Whip on low speed.

2 Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan. Attach a candy thermometer and bring the mixture to a boil. As the temperature of the boiling sugar syrup approaches 230°F (110°C), increase the mixer speed to medium.

3 When the aquafaba meringue is holding firm peaks and the syrup reaches 250°F (121°C), increase the mixer speed to high. Pour the syrup into the meringue in a steady stream between the side of the bowl and the whip.

4 Continue whipping until the meringue is cool enough to handle and/or until firm peaks have formed. Use immediately in any formula that requires Italian meringue.

Approximate values per 1 oz. (30-g) serving: Calories 70, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 17 g

GF Gluten Free Vegan

Vegetarian

aquafaba the thick liquid produced by cooking legumes, especially chickpeas, in water or the liquid drained from canned chickpeas; used to replace egg whites in some preparations

Aquafaba Italian Meringue Aquafaba Italian Meringue piped into decorative shapes, then browned with a hand held propane torch.


Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan icons identify formulas in Chapter 18, Healthy Baking and Special Diets.

Tables

▲

Tables and figures offer visual support and organize

material to enhance instruction and learning.

534 C H A P T E R S I X T E E N

CRÈME CHANTILLY (CHANTILLY CREAM)

Y I E L D 2–2½ qt. (2–2.4 lt)

Heavy cream, chilled 1 qt. 1 ltPowdered sugar 2 oz. 60 gVanilla extract 0.3 fl. oz. (2 tsp.) 10 ml

1 Place the cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Using a balloon whisk, whisk the cream until slightly thickened.

2 Add the sugar and vanilla and continue whisking to the desired consistency. The cream should be smooth and light, not grainy. Do not overwhip.

3 Crème Chantilly may be stored in the refrigerator several hours. If the cream begins to soften, gently rewhip as necessary.

Variations:

Chocolate Chantilly—Place 6 ounces (180 grams) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate in a medium bowl. Bring 1 quart (1 liter) heavy cream, 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliters) milk and 3 ounces (90 grams) sugar to boil. Pour half of the boiled mixture onto the chopped chocolate. Whisk until smooth. Add the remaining cream and cover. Refrigerate over-night before whipping.

Stabilized Whipped Cream—Soften 0.25 ounce (7 grams/2¾ teaspoons) granulated gelatin in 2 fluid ounces (60 milliliters) cold water. Melt the gelatin over very low heat or in a bain marie. Add to the cream just as it begins to form soft peaks. Whip to the desired consistency.

Note: Unsweetened cream that breaks can be turned into butter. Continue whipping until the cream decreases in volume and separates into lumps of butter and watery liquid called whey. Place the mixture in a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl. Knead it brief ly to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the liquid and use the butter that remains for sautéing foods or greasing pans.

Approximate values per 1-f l.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 60, Total fat 6 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg, Sodium 5 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g, Protein 0 g

Bavarian CreamA Bavarian cream (Fr. bavarois) is prepared by first thickening custard sauce with gela-tin, then folding in whipped cream. The final product is poured into a mold and chilled until firm enough to unmold and slice. Although a Bavarian cream can be molded into individual servings, it is often poured into a round mold lined with spongecake or lady-fingers to create the classic dessert known as a charlotte.

Bavarians can be flavored by adding chocolate, puréed fruit, chopped nuts, extracts or liquors to the custard sauce base. Layers of fruit or liqueur-soaked spongecake can also be added for flavor and texture. Fresh fruits such as figs, guava, kiwi, mango and pine-apple contain bromelain, an enzyme that interferes with the setting of gelatin-thickened creams. The cream may not set properly when these fruits are used in a Bavarian cream.

CREAM (CRÈME) COMPONENTS TABLE 16.2

FOR A BEGIN WITH A BASE OF THICKEN WITH THEN FOLD IN

Bavarian Custard Gelatin Whipped cream

Chiffon Custard or starch-thickened fruit

Gelatin Whipped egg whites

Mousse Melted chocolate, puréed fruit or custard

Nothing or gelatin

Whipped cream, whipped egg whites, whipped egg yolks or all three

M I S E E N P L A C E�� Chill cream, mixing bowl and whisk.

Properly whipped Crème Chantilly.


Gluten FreeGF Vegetarian


v

Measurements

All formulas include ingredient quanti-ties in both U.S. and metric measure-ments. U.S. and metric measurements for all temperatures, pan sizes and other quantities are provided throughout the text.

Baker’s Percentage

A way of expressing the ratio of ingredi-ents unique to professional baking, bak-er’s percentages are used primarily with breads, cakes and dough products and are provided with all of those formulas.

Variations

Variations provided at the end of some formulas show how to modify that for-mula to create different flavor profiles and new dishes.

Nutritional Analysis

All formulas include a nutritional analy-sis prepared by a registered dietitian.

C O O K I E S A N D B R O W N I E S 337

❸ Stacking the striped layers of dough to form a checkerboard pattern.

❹ Wrapping a layer of chocolate dough around the block of checkerboard dough.

❺ Slicing the block of checkerboard dough into cookies before baking.

Bergamot Shortbread

Pecan Shortbread

TRADITIONAL SHORTBREAD

Y I E L D 84 Cookies, approximately ½ oz. (15 g) each

M E T H O D Icebox Cookies

Unsalted butter, softened 1 lb. 480 g 84%Powdered sugar 8 oz. 240 g 42%Vanilla extract 0.5 fl. oz. 15 ml 3%Salt 0.2 oz. (1 tsp.) 5 g 1%Pastry or all-purpose flour 1 lb. 3 oz. 570 g 100%Egg wash as needed as needed

Total dough weight: 2 lb. 11 oz. 1310 g 230%

1 Blend the butter and powdered sugar in a mixing bowl without creaming. Stir in the vanilla and salt, mixing thoroughly. Add the flour and mix until just combined.

2 Divide the dough into four equal portions. Roll each piece of dough into 8-inch (20-centimeter) disks. Wrap in plastic. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes.

3 Remove from the freezer and unwrap, then lightly brush each disk with egg wash. Cut each disk of dough into eight wedges. Dock the wedges with a fork. Place on parchment paper–lined sheet pans.

4 Bake at 375°F (190°C) until pale golden brown, approximately 15–20 minutes.

Variations:

Bergamot Shortbread—Add 12 drops oil of bergamot with the vanilla in Step 1. Divide the dough into four equal portions. Roll each piece into a 10-inch- (25-centimeter-) long cylin-der. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes. Brush each cylinder with egg wash, then roll in granulated sugar. Cut the cylinders into ½-inch- (1.2-centimeter-) thick slices and place slices cut side down on parchment paper-lined sheet pans. Dock the cookies with a fork and bake.

Pecan Shortbread—Add 7 ounces (210 grams/37%) of finely chopped pecans to the dough in Step 1.

Approximate values per cookie: Calories 70, Total fat 4.5 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 10 mg, Sodium 30 mg, Total carbohydrates 8 g, Protein 1 g


▲

456 C H A P T E R F O U R T E E N

POUNDCAKE

Y I E L D 3 Loaves, 9 in. 3 5 in. (23 cm 3 13 cm) M E T H O D Creaming

Cake flour 1 lb. 5 oz. 630 g 100%Baking powder 0.37 oz. (2½ tsp.) 11 g 1.8%Baking soda 0.04 oz. (¼ tsp.) 1 g 0.1%Unsalted butter, room temperature 15 oz. 450 g 71%Granulated sugar 1 lb. 7 oz. 690 g 109%Corn syrup or additional

granulated sugar1 oz. 30 g 5%

Salt 0.37 oz. (1½ tsp.) 11 g 1.8%Eggs, room temperature 1 lb. (10 eggs) 480 g 76%Vanilla extract 0.25 fl. oz. (1½ tsp.) 7.5 ml 1.2%Almond extract (optional) 0.25 fl. oz. (1½ tsp.) 7.5 ml 1.2%Lemon zest, grated 0.04 oz. (½ tsp.) 1 g 0.2%Orange zest, grated 0.04 oz. (½ tsp.) 1 g 0.2%Buttermilk, room temperature 8 fl. oz. 240 ml 38%

Total batter weight: 5 lb. 5 oz. 2559 g 405%

1 Sift the flour, baking powder and baking soda together. Set aside.

2 Cream the butter until light and lump-free. Add the sugar, corn syrup, if using, and salt. Cream on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs a few at a time, allowing them to be completely incorporated before adding more eggs. Scrape down the bowl after each addition.

3 Add the vanilla and almond extract, if using, and the lemon and orange zests.

4 Fold in the dry ingredients alternately with the buttermilk in three additions each.

5 Divide the batter evenly into three 9-inch 3 5-inch (23-centimeter 3 13-centimeter) greased loaf pans. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake until the centers of the cakes bounce back when lightly pressed, approximately 45–55 minutes. If the cakes begin to darken as they bake, cover them loosely with aluminum foil.

6 Cool the cakes in their pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Unmold and cool completely.

Variations:

Chocolate Poundcake—Reduce the flour to 1 pounds 2 ounces (530 grams/85%). Sift 3 ounces (90 grams/14%) cocoa powder with the remaining flour.

French-Style Fruitcake—Add 2.25 fluid ounces (67.5 milliliters/10%) rum to the buttermilk. Fold 9 ounces (270 grams/43%) finely diced nuts, raisins and candied fruit into the batter after the dry ingredients. After baking, brush the cake with additional rum.

Approximate values per 1∕12-cake serving: Calories 240, Total fat 11 g, Saturated fat 7 g, Cholesterol 80 mg, Sodium 170 mg, Total carbohydrates 132 g, Protein 3 g

M I S E E N P L A C E

�� Allow butter, eggs and buttermilk to come to room temperature.

�� Zest lemon and orange.�� Grease pans.�� Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

❶ The creamed butter. ❷ Adding the eggs to the creamed butter and sugar.

❸ The poundcake batter.


Mise en PlaceFrench for “put in place,” the mise en place list accompanying in-chapter formulas points out what needs to be done before starting to pre-pare the formula, such as preheating the oven, chopping nuts or melting butter.

FormulasRecipes, more appropriately called formulas in

professional bakeshops, demonstrate techniques and provide delicious laboratory experiments

for all skill levels.

▲

Q U I C K B R E A D S 153

BRAN MUFFINS WITH RAISINS

Y I E L D 18 Muffins, 3½ oz. (105 g) each M E T H O D Muffin

Buttermilk 16 fl. oz. 480 ml 152%Wheat bran 5 oz. 150 g 47%Salt 0.4 oz. (1¾ tsp.) 10.5 g 3.5%All-purpose flour 10.5 oz. 315 g 100%Baking powder 0.3 oz. (2 tsp.) 8 g 3%Baking soda 0.3 oz. (2 tsp.) 8 g 3%Cinnamon, ground 0.2 oz. (1 Tbsp.) 6 g 2%Eggs 3.3 oz. (2 eggs) 100 g 31%Vegetable oil 6 fl. oz. 180 ml 57%Brown sugar 12 oz. 360 g 114%Raisins, conditioned 8 oz. 240 g 75%Streusel Topping (page 145; optional) as needed as needed


1 Combine the buttermilk, wheat bran and salt. Set aside for 15 minutes. (The mixture will look deceptively dry.)

2 Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon.3 In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until completely smooth. Add the oil and brown sugar. Stir into

the soaked bran mixture.4 Fold in the conditioned raisins. Then fold in the dry ingredients and combine without overmixing.5 Portion into prepared muffin cups. Sprinkle with Streusel Topping, if using. Bake at 400°F (200°C)

until the center bounces back when lightly pressed, approximately 18–22 minutes.Approximate values per 3½-oz. (105-g) muffin: Calories 290, Total fat 11 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg, Sodium 450 mg, Total carbohydrates 48 g, Protein 5 g, Claims—good source of fiber

WHOLE GRAIN MORNING GLORY MUFFINS

Y I E L D 12 Muffins, 3½ oz. (120 g) each M E T H O D Muffin

White or regular whole wheat flour 8.5 oz. 255 g 100%Baking soda 0.3 oz. (2 tsp.) 8 g 3.5%Granulated sugar 7 oz. 210 g 82%Salt 0.2 oz. (1 tsp.) 6 g 2.35%Cinnamon, ground 0.14 oz. (2 tsp.) 4 g 1.5%Ginger, ground 0.07 oz. (1 tsp.) 2 g 0.8%Eggs 5 oz. (3 eggs) 150 g 59%Vegetable oil 4.5 fl. oz. 135 ml 53%Vanilla extract 0.15 fl. oz. (1 tsp.) 5 ml 2%Orange or pineapple juice 2 fl. oz. 60 ml 23.5%Grated peeled carrots 7 oz. 210 g 82%Grated peeled apple 3.5 oz. 105 g 41%Raisins 2 oz. 60 g 23.5%Shredded coconut 2 oz. 60 g 23.5%Pecan or walnut pieces 2.5 oz. 75 g 29.4%


1 Sift the dry ingredients together.2 In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and oil together. Stir in the vanilla and orange juice.3 Stir in dry ingredients. Fold in the grated carrots, grated apple, raisins, coconut and pecans.4 Portion into prepared muffin cups.5 Bake at 400°F (200°C) until the center of the muffins bounce back when lightly pressed with a

finger, approximately 25 minutes.Approximate values per 3½-oz. (105-g) muffin: Calories 330, Total fat 18 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 45 mg, Sodium 450 mg, Total carbohydrates 42 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 60%, Claims—good source of fiber and iron; excellent source of vitamin A

Good Choice

Good Choice



vi

Troubleshooting ChartsTroubleshooting charts enhance the learning experience by clarify-ing why a problem occurred and how an error can be corrected or avoided in the future.

▲

C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S A N D S A U C E S 531

Bread PuddingBread pudding is a rustic dessert in which chunks of bread, flavorings and raisins or other fruit are mixed with an egg custard and baked. The result is somewhat of a cross between a cake and a pudding. It is often served with custard sauce, ice cream, whipped cream or a whiskey-flavored butter sauce. Bread pudding is a delicious way to use stale or leftover bread or overripe fruit. In fact, croissants, brioche, gingerbread, spongecake or a savory product such as cornbread can be used to make sweet or savory bread puddings. A for-mula for Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce appears on page 554.

SoufflésA soufflé consists of a custard base, often thickened with a starch, that is lightened with whipped egg whites and then baked. When heated, air in the egg whites expands to create a light, fluffy texture and tall rise. During baking, the egg proteins set, giving some struc-ture to the finished soufflé. A soufflé is very unstable, however, and collapses quickly as the air inside it cools. For this reason, do not open the oven door while the soufflé bakes.

Soufflés can be prepared in a wide variety of sweet and savory flavors. The flavor-ings can be incorporated into the custard, as in the formula presented on the next page. Alternatively, an unflavored pastry cream can be used as the base, and liqueur, fruit or chocolate added to each portion separately. The base can be prepared in advance and kept refrigerated for one or two days.

When making a soufflé, the custard base and egg whites should be at room tempera-ture. This is because the egg whites will whip to a better volume at room temperature. In addition, if the base is approximately the same temperature as the egg whites, the two mixtures can be more easily combined. A portion of the sugar is whipped with the egg whites to provide stability. The egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks, and then gently folded into the base immediately before baking.

A soufflé is baked in a straight-sided mold or individual ramekins. Keep the mixture from touching the top edge of the mold so it will rise evenly. The finished soufflé should be puffy with a lightly browned top. It should rise well above the rim of the baking dish. Do not touch a soufflé to test doneness, as it may collapse. A soufflé must be served immediately, before it collapses. A warm custard sauce, crème anglaise, is often served as an accompaniment to a sweet soufflé.

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART FOR CUS TARDS TABLE 16.1

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

Custard sauce watery Custard overcooked Adjust temperature; remove from heat promptly; cook in a bain marie; chill over an ice bath.

Custard sauce lumpy Improper mixing of sugar and yolks Whisk yolks and sugar together properly.

Pastry cream lumpy Starch not incorporated properly Blend starch with sugar before adding liquid; stir cream while cooking.

Pastry cream runny Insufficient starch Adjust formula; measure ingredients properly.Undercooked starch Cook longer.Wrong starch used Adjust formula.Overstirred after pastry cream has set Avoid stirring once pastry cream has set.

Baked custard curdled, lumpy or watery

Custard overcooked Adjust oven temperature; remove from oven promptly; remove from water bath to prevent carryover cooking.

Insufficient water in bain marie Increase water in bain marie.

Custard greasy Too much fat Adjust formula; use a combination of heavy cream and milk; use more whole eggs than yolks.

Cheesecake grainy Overcooked Adjust oven temperature or baking time.Batter overmixed Soften cream cheese before using; blend batter on low speed.

Cheesecake cracks Baked cake cooled too quickly Cool slowly.Batter overmixed Soften cream cheese before using; blend batter on low speed.


388 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

M I S E E N P L A C E

�� Grate lemon zest.�� Prepare mealy pie dough.�� Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) while

filling rests.

BLUEBERRY PIE WITH L ATTICE CRUS T

Y I E L D 1 Pie, 9 in. (23 cm) M E T H O D Baked Fruit Filling

Filling:Blueberries, fresh or IQF, thawed 1 lb. 8 oz. 720 gGranulated sugar 4 oz. 120 gLemon zest, grated 0.14 oz. (2 tsp.) 4 gLemon juice 1 fl. oz. 30 mlSalt 0.02 oz. (⅛ tsp.) 1 gInstant tapioca 1.25 oz. 37 gCinnamon, ground 0.02 oz. (¼ tsp.) 0.5 gUnsalted butter 0.5 oz. 15 g

Mealy pie dough 1 lb. 1 oz. 510 g

1 Combine the blueberries, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, tapioca and cinnamon in a bowl. Allow the filling to stand for 15 minutes. (If using unthawed frozen berries, allow the filling to stand for 45 minutes.)

2 Using 11 ounces (330 grams) of the pie dough, roll a circle just large enough to fill the pie pan.

3 Gently pour the filling into the unbaked shell. Arrange small lumps of the butter on top of the filling.

4 Roll the remaining pie dough ⅛ inch (3 millimeters) thick and form a lattice over the fruit.

5 Bake at 350°F (180°C) until the filling is bubbly and the crust is well browned, approximately 50 minutes.

Approximate values per ⅛-pie serving: Calories 390, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 55 mg, Sodium 260 mg, Total carbohydrates 54 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 15%, Vitamin C 15%

Custard FillingsA custard pie has a soft filling that bakes along with the crust. Popular examples of custard pies include pumpkin, egg custard and pecan pies. As explained in Chapter 16, Custards, Creams and Sauces, custards are liquids thickened by coagulated egg proteins. To make a custard pie, an uncooked liquid containing eggs is poured into a pie shell. When baked, the egg proteins coagulate, firming and setting the filling.

The procedure for making custard pies is straightforward: Combine the filling ingredi-ents and bake. But there is often a problem: baking the bottom crust completely without overcooking the filling. For the best results, start baking the pie at 400°F (200°C). After 10–15 minutes, reduce the heat to 325–350°F (160–180°C) to finish cooking the filling slowly. Or prepare custard pies in crusts that have been baked blind and then bake them at a lower temperature throughout.

To determine the doneness of a custard pie:

❶ Shake the pie gently. It is done if it is no longer liquid. The center should show only slight movement.

❷ Insert a thin knife approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) from the center. The filling is done if the knife comes out clean.

Procedure for Preparing Baked Fruit Fillings1 Peel, core, cut and drain the fruit as desired or as directed in the formula.2 Toss the fruit with the flour or starch, sugar and spices, coating it well. Let stand

for 15 minutes.3 Fill an unbaked shell with the fruit mixture to just below the rim. Take care not to

spill filling on the edge of the pie shell. (Spills can prevent the top crust from seal-ing properly.)

4 Arrange small lumps of butter on top of the fruit.5 Cover with a top crust, lattice or streusel, and bake.


▲ PhotographsFormulas are illustrated with step-by-step photographs show-ing procedural techniques and photographs of finished products or plated desserts.

656 C H A P T E R N I N E T E E N

MASCARPONE CHOCOL ATE RASPBERRY DOME CAKE

Y I E L D 2 Entremets, 8 in. (20 cm) each

Mascarpone Cream Mousse (page 564)

3 lb. 3 oz. 1537 g

Coconut Shortbread Tart Dough (page 395) tart shells, 8 in. (20 cm), made with hazelnut flour, baked

2 shells 2 shells

Raspberry Ganache (page 632) 12 oz. 360 gWhite Chocolate Mirror Glaze

(page 645)1 lb. 4 oz. 600 g

Red gel food coloring as needed as neededWhite chocolate ribbons

(page 696)2 2

Raspberries as needed as needed

1 Divide the Mascarpone Cream Mousse between two domed silicone molds 7 inches (18 centimeters) in diameter. Refrigerate or freeze for 4 hours or overnight.

2 Divide the Raspberry Ganache evenly between the two tart shells. Refrigerate.

3 Cover a full-sheet pan with plastic wrap, and set a wire rack on top.

4 Unmold the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse onto the wire rack. Return the molded mousse to the freezer for 10–15 minutes.

5 Heat the White Chocolate Mirror Glaze in a bain marie over simmering water to 90°F (32°C). Add enough red food coloring to achieve the desired effect.

6 Remove the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse from the freezer. Pour the heated mirror glaze over the frozen molded mousse. Spread it into a thin layer using a metal spatula. Allow the glaze to drip and set for 3–5 minutes.

7 Using a metal spatula, lift each glazed mousse off the wire rack and place it into a ganache-filled tart shell.

8 Decorate each glazed mousse with a white chocolate ribbon and fresh raspberries. Let the entremets sit in the refrigerator to temper for 30–60 minutes before serving.

Approximate values per ⅛-torte serving: Calories 660, Total fat 48 g, Saturated fat 28 g, Cholesterol 210 mg, Sodium 110 mg, Total carbohydrates 56 g, Protein 10 g

Mascarpone Cream MousseShortbread Tart ShellRaspberry Ganache

Chocolate GlazeChocolate Décor

Fresh Berries

❶ Unmolding the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❷ Pouring the heated mirror glaze over the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❸ Spreading the heated mirror glaze over the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❹ Placing the glazed frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse into the tart shell.

M19_LABE5000_04_SE_C19.indd 56 17/10/19 2:11 PM ganga /209/PH03649/9780135238899_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_BAKING_AND_PASTRY_FUND ...

656 C H A P T E R N I N E T E E N

MASCARPONE CHOCOL ATE RASPBERRY DOME CAKE

Y I E L D 2 Entremets, 8 in. (20 cm) each

Mascarpone Cream Mousse (page 564)

3 lb. 3 oz. 1537 g

Coconut Shortbread Tart Dough (page 395) tart shells, 8 in. (20 cm), made with hazelnut flour, baked

2 shells 2 shells

Raspberry Ganache (page 632) 12 oz. 360 gWhite Chocolate Mirror Glaze

(page 645)1 lb. 4 oz. 600 g

Red gel food coloring as needed as neededWhite chocolate ribbons

(page 696)2 2

Raspberries as needed as needed

1 Divide the Mascarpone Cream Mousse between two domed silicone molds 7 inches (18 centimeters) in diameter. Refrigerate or freeze for 4 hours or overnight.

2 Divide the Raspberry Ganache evenly between the two tart shells. Refrigerate.

3 Cover a full-sheet pan with plastic wrap, and set a wire rack on top.

4 Unmold the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse onto the wire rack. Return the molded mousse to the freezer for 10–15 minutes.

5 Heat the White Chocolate Mirror Glaze in a bain marie over simmering water to 90°F (32°C). Add enough red food coloring to achieve the desired effect.

6 Remove the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse from the freezer. Pour the heated mirror glaze over the frozen molded mousse. Spread it into a thin layer using a metal spatula. Allow the glaze to drip and set for 3–5 minutes.

7 Using a metal spatula, lift each glazed mousse off the wire rack and place it into a ganache-filled tart shell.

8 Decorate each glazed mousse with a white chocolate ribbon and fresh raspberries. Let the entremets sit in the refrigerator to temper for 30–60 minutes before serving.

Approximate values per ⅛-torte serving: Calories 660, Total fat 48 g, Saturated fat 28 g, Cholesterol 210 mg, Sodium 110 mg, Total carbohydrates 56 g, Protein 10 g

Mascarpone Cream MousseShortbread Tart ShellRaspberry Ganache

Chocolate GlazeChocolate Décor

Fresh Berries

❶ Unmolding the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❷ Pouring the heated mirror glaze over the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❸ Spreading the heated mirror glaze over the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse.

❹ Placing the glazed frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse into the tart shell.


Color Illustrations of Torte and Entremet Assembly

▲

Full-color illustrations accompany torte formulas to show the internal assembly of these finished desserts.

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vii

▲ SidebarsSidebars present additional information on food history, food in culture and the background of professional food service. Flavor sidebars discuss how flavorings and other ingredients may be used to change the character of a product. Convenience product sidebars present prepared ingredients available to help streamline production. These side-bars help explain baking and pastry arts in a wider social context and provide additional resources that support a students work in the bakeshop.

C O O K I E S A N D B R O W N I E S 323

large pieces of thick dough. Cookie dough that spreads during baking results in a thin-ner, crisper product.

Using a coarse granulated sugar in a formula decreases the spread in cookie dough. Powdered sugar in a cookie dough also produces cookies that spread less. Flour with a higher protein content creates a firm and crisp cookie. Low oven temperature increases baking time, making cookies drier and crisper. Baked meringues cookies, discussed on page 427, are an example of this. If more or less crispness is desired, examine the options described in Table 11.1.

COOKIE TEXTURES TABLE 11.1

DESIRED TEXTURE FAT SUGAR LIQUID FLOUR SIZE OR SHAPE BAKING

Crispness High High; use granulated sugar.

Low Strong Thin dough Bake until well done; cool on sheet pan.

Softness Low Low; use hygroscopic sugars.

High Weak Thick dough Use parchment-lined pan; underbake.

Chewiness High High; use hygroscopic sugars.

High Strong Thickness not relevant; chilled dough

Underbake; cool on rack.

Spread High High; use more granulated sugar.

High; especially from eggs

Weak Thickness not relevant; room-temperature dough

Use greased pan, low temperature.

The amount of spread increases the longer fat and sugar are creamed. A long creaming time will produce more spread (left). A moderate amount of creaming time (center) produces less spread. Minimal creaming time (right) produces the least spread.

The Story Behind the Chip

History was made in 1930 when Ruth Wakefield, innkeeper of the Toll House Inn in Whitman, Massachusetts, cut up a semisweet chocolate bar and added the pieces to cookie dough. She was disap-pointed that the pieces kept their shape when baked—until her first bite, that is.

Mrs. Wakefield contacted Nestlé Foods Corporation, which published her cookie recipe on the wrapper of its semisweet chocolate bars. The recipe’s popularity led Nestlé to create and begin selling chocolate chips in 1939.

Today’s cookie maker can now choose from milk, white, sweet or bitter choco-late chips, along with mint, butterscotch, peanut butter, cinnamon and other flavor chips, offered in several sizes by a variety of manufacturers.

Softness and ChewinessSoft cookies are made from dough with a high moisture content and a lower proportion of fat and sugar. Eggs contribute to making a chewier cookie. The proteins in the eggs bind and firm during baking. The moisture in the eggs helps develop gluten in the flour. Formulas that use granulated sugar, not powdered sugar, usually bake into a chewier


▲ Questions for DiscussionQuestions for Discussion located at the end of each chapter are aligned with the chapter’s Learning Objectives. These questions encourage the integration of theory and technique for a broader understanding of the material presented. Some questions require library or online research to emphasize the importance of assimilating information and seeking solutions beyond primary classroom materials.

20 C H A P T E R O N E

Some accidents inevitably occur, and it is important to act appropriately in the event of an injury or emergency. This can mean calling for help or providing first aid. Every bakeshop and food service operation should be equipped with a complete first-aid kit. Local regulations may specify the exact contents of the kit. Be sure that the kit is conve-niently located and well stocked at all times.

The American Red Cross and public health departments offer training in first aid, car-diopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) and the Heimlich maneuver used for choking victims. All employees should be trained in basic emergency procedures. A list of emergency telephone numbers should be posted by each telephone.

QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION

1 Describe important influences on the baking industry in the 21st century.

2 Many contemporary confections and pastries are rooted in ancient recipes. Use the internet and library resources to research a product such as a cake, cookie or candy that was originally popularized in the 19th or 20th century and discuss how its taste and preparation technique have evolved over time.

3 List three different types of bakery operations and explain their similarities and differences.

4 What are the roles of the executive chef and the pastry chef in the modern kitchen brigade?

5 Describe the key attributes of a baking and pastry professional, and things you can do to develop the skills, taste and judgment required to advance your career.

6 Review the 2017 Food Code and discuss its impact on sanitary practices in the bakeshop.

7 What precautions should you take to ensure that food allergens do not contaminate baked goods, pastries and other foods?

8 Numerous professional organizations hold competitions for pastry chefs and bread makers each year. Use the internet to research recent bread-making and pastry competitions. Discuss the winning entries and the people who succeeded in these competitions.



FOR THE INSTRUCTORImagine what you could do if every student came to class ready to learn.

Revel is an engaging, digital, learning environment that prepares your students for class through a continuous experience—anytime, anywhere, on any device.

Using this learning-science based technology, your students will be able to:

▪▪ Read, or listen to, the On Baking content on any device▪▪ Practice concepts through multiple interactivities that check their understanding▪▪ Stay engaged using videos and writing exercises▪▪ Finish each chapter with an auto-graded quiz

With the assignability and performance tracking tools in Revel, you can:▪▪ Set the pace for progress: Revel allows educators to indicate precisely which

reading must be completed by which dates. This clear, detailed calendar helps students stay on task by eliminating ambiguity as to which material will be covered during each class. When students understand exactly what is expected of them, they are better motivated to keep up.

▪▪ Focus your time and resources on students’ needs: Using the performance dashboard, educators can monitor class assignment completion as well as individual student achievement. Actionable information, such as points earned on quizzes and tests and time on task, helps educators engage with their students in meaningful ways. For example, the trending column in the performance dashboard reveals whether students’ grades are improv-ing or declining, helping educators identify students who might need help staying on track.

▪▪ Provide easy access on the first day of class: LMS integration provides institu-tions, instructors, and students easy access to their Revel courses via Black-board Learn™ and Canvas™. With single sign-on, students can be ready to access Revel’s interactive blend of authors’ narrative, media, and assess-ment on their first day.

INSTRUCTOR TEACHING RESOURCES

Online Instructor’s ManualIncludes chapter outlines, objectives and summaries, a list of figures and key terms, and problem-based learning exercises.

PowerPoint Lecture PresentationsThis comprehensive set of slides can be used by instructors for class presenta-tions or by students for lecture preview or review. There is a presentation for each chapter, including a selection of full-color photographs from the book. Available through the Revel platform or the Instructor Resource Site.

TestGen (Computerized Test Bank)The TestGen program contains preloaded text-based questions for instructors to use to create their own exams and quizzes.

Comprehensive Teaching and Learning Package

viii


ix

FOR THE STUDENTRevel for On Baking brings concepts to life!

Revel was designed to help every student come to class ready to learn. Using this seamless, digital, learning experience, students are continuously engaged in reading, learning with interactives, exploring key topics with videos, and prac-ticing with flashcards and check your understanding questions. Each chapter includes a shared writing activity covering a key topic, and ends with a quiz assessing mastery of the learning objectives.

This engaging presentation has been designed to encourage students to com-plete their assigned reading and retain what they’ve read, so they can show up to class better prepared to participate and learn.

▪▪ Provides an all-in-one solution: Fully digital and highly engaging, Revel gives students everything they need for the course—all in one continuous, inte-grated learning experience. Highlighting, note taking, and a glossary let students read and study however they like. Educators can add notes for students, too, including reminders or study tips.

▪▪ Encourages practice and review: Embedded assessments such as quizzes and concept checks give students opportunities to check their understanding at regular intervals before moving on. Assessments in Revel let instructors gauge student comprehension frequently, provide timely feedback, and address learning gaps along the way.

▪▪ Enables learning anytime, anywhere: The Revel mobile app also lets students read, practice, and study—anywhere, anytime, on any device. Content is available both online and offline, and the app syncs work across all regis-tered devices automatically, giving students great flexibility to toggle between phone, tablet, and laptop as they move through their day. The app also lets students set assignment notifications to stay on top of all due dates. Available for download from the App Store or Google Play.

Audio available on any device, including Alexa!


Photographs by Richard Embery, Nick de la Torre and Eddy Van Damme

Drawings by Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram

SARAH R. LABENSKY | PRISCILLA MARTEL | EDDY VAN DAMME

330 Hudson Street, NY, NY 10013

On BakingA TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS | FOURTH EDITION


Copyright © 2020, 2016, 2013 by Pearson Education, Inc. 221 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America. This publication is protected by Copyright, and permission should be obtained from the publisher prior to any prohibited reproduction, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or likewise. For information regarding permissions, request forms, and the appropriate contacts within the Pearson Education Global Rights and Permissions department, please visit www.pearsoned.com/permissions/

Acknowledgments of third-party content appear in the Credits section on pages 830–834.

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Unless otherwise indicated herein, any third-party trademarks, logos, or icons that may appear in this work are the property of their respective owners, and any references to third party trademarks, logos, icons, or other trade dress are for demonstrative or descriptive purposes only. Such references are not intended to imply any sponsorship, endorsement, authorization, or promotion of Pearson’s products by the owners of such marks, or any relationship between the owner and Pearson Education, Inc., authors, licensees, or distributors.

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1 20

ISBN 10: 0-13-670500-6ISBN 13: 978-0-13-670500-0


About the Authors

SARAH R. LABENSKYChef Sarah is a culinary educator with an extensive background as an academic administrator, restaurateur, caterer and advocate for culinary professionalism. She is currently a chef-instructor for Oceania Cruises. From 2014 to 2019, Chef Sarah was a professor at Woosong University’s Sol International Culinary Arts School in Daejeon, Korea. She was also Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute at Mississippi University for Women and a professor of culinary arts at Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College. While in Mississippi, Chef Sarah owned two restaurants and worked as food and beverage director for a country club. Before teaching, Chef Sarah spent many years as a pastry cook and caterer.

In addition to On Baking, Chef Sarah is coauthor of On Cooking; The Prentice Hall Dictionary of Culinary Arts and Applied Math for Food Service. She holds a J.D. from Vanderbilt University, is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) and is a charter member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Chef Sarah’s passions include travel and mentoring young people along their own professional paths.

PRISCILLA MARTELChef Priscilla is a professional chef, educator and food writer with a special interest in almonds, Mediterranean cuisines and artisan baking. She honed her cooking skills at Restaurant du Village, a country French restaurant she opened in Chester, Connecticut, in 1979. Today she operates All About Food, which holds several baking patents and collaborates with food manufacturers and restaurants to create innovative products, menus and marketing programs.

Chef Priscilla is a visiting instructor at Boston University’s certificate program in the culinary arts and in the Hospitality Management Program at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Connecticut. She is also a contributing writer for Gourmet Retailer among other food trade publications. To honor her commitment to help young people prepare for their culinary careers, Chef Priscilla advises Pro Start Culinary teams in Connecticut. She is coauthor of On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals (Pearson, 6th edition, 2019) and Math for Bakers (DVD).

EDDY VAN DAMMEChef Eddy Van Damme, born in Belgium, studied Baking and Patisserie in Belgium and France. As a teenager he wanted nothing more than to come to America, which he loves and where he has made his home. He is a passionate baking professor at Houston Community College, where he inspires students to reach their maximum potential. Chef Eddy constantly researches, innovates and perfects recipes. He has won numerous competitions and awards and holds five ACF Gold medals. He travels at least twice a year to Europe to remain current in the latest patisserie trends. He creates recipes for Imperial Sugar, Dixie Crystals and other companies.

Chef Eddy has been featured on American and European television shows. When asked what his favorite baking subject is, he answers “The entire bakery/ patisserie/confectionery field is extraordinarily spectacular to me and I deeply treasure it all”. Currently he is developing allergen-free and nutrition-enhanced bakery goods.


xv

PART ONE PROFESSIONALISM AND THE BAKESHOP

1 Professionalism and Food Safety ________1

BAKERS, CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS 2Bread Making Since Ancient Times 2Refined Sugar and the Art of Confectionery 3The Birth of the Bakery and Restaurant 4The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique 5The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine 5The Return to Craftsmanship and the Artisan Bread Movement 6The Late 20th and Early 21st Century—An American Culinary Revolution 6

BAKESHOP OPERATIONS 9Baking Business Segments 9Bakeshop and Pastry Kitchen Organization and Staffing 9

THE PROFESSIONAL PASTRY CHEF AND BAKER 10Knowledge 10Skill 11Taste 11Judgment 11Dedication 12Professional Ethics 12Pride 12Careers 13

SAFETY AND SANITATION 13Safe Food-Handling Practices 13Preventing Cross-Contamination 14Cleaning and Sanitizing 16Food Storage and Labeling 17Controlling Pests 18Food Allergies and Intolerances 18Ensuring Employee Safety 19

2 Tools and Equipment for the Bakeshop _______________________________________ 21

STANDARDS FOR TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 22KNIVES 23

Knife Construction 23Knife Shapes 23

HAND TOOLS 24Graters 25Pastry Brushes 25Rolling Pins 25Baker’s Peels 25Cutters 25

MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICES 26Scales 26Volume Measures 27Ladles 27Portion Scoops 27Thermometers and Gauges 27Timers 28

STRAINERS AND SIEVES 28

Contents

COOKWARE AND BAKEWARE 29Materials and Heat Conduction 29Common Cookware 31Common Bakeware 31

DECORATING AND FINISHING TOOLS 33PROCESSING EQUIPMENT 33

Slicers 34Mandoline 34Food Processors 34Blenders 34Immersion Blenders 34Juicers 34Whipping Siphon 35

WORK SURFACES, STORAGE AND ORGANIZATION 35Storage Containers 35Racks 35

MIXING AND DOUGH HANDLING 36Mixers 36Automated Make-Up Equipment 36Sheeters 37Proof Boxes 37Retarders 37

BAKING AND COOKING 37Ovens 37Wood-Burning Ovens 38Microwave Ovens 39Cook Stoves 39Broilers, Salamanders and Propane Torches 39Deep-Fat Fryers 39

REFRIGERATION AND CLEANING 40Refrigerators and Freezers 40Ice Cream Freezers 40Dishwashers 41

SAFETY EQUIPMENT 41Fire Extinguishers 41Ventilation Systems 42First-Aid Kits 42

WORK STATIONS IN THE PROFESSIONAL BAKESHOP 42Measuring and Mixing Work Station 42Dough Make-Up Work Station 43Baking Work Station 43Assembly Work Station 43Other Important Areas in the Bakeshop 43Maximizing Flow in the Bakeshop 43

3 Bakeshop Ingredients ______________________ 45

FLOURS 46Wheat Flour 46Types of Wheat Flour 50Specialty Flours and Meals 51Purchasing and Storing Flour 52

SUGAR AND SWEETENERS 52Sugar 52Liquid Sweeteners 54Sugar Syrups 55


xvi C O N T E N T S

FATS 58Butter 58Lard 59Margarine 59Shortenings and Oils 59

MILK AND DAIRY PRODUCTS 60Milk Processing Techniques 60Concentrated Milks 61Cream 62Cultured Dairy Products 63Cheese 64

EGGS 65Egg Composition 65Egg Grading 66Egg Storage 66Egg Sanitation 67Egg Products 67Whipped Egg Whites 67

THICKENERS 68Starches 68Gelatin 69Vegetable Gums 71

FRUITS 71Berries 72Citrus 73Specialty Fruits 76Melons 78Pomes 79Stone Fruits 81Tropical Fruits 83Purchasing Fresh Fruits 86Preserving Fruits 87Juicing Fruits 88

FLAVORINGS 89Salt 89Emulsions and Extracts 89Vanilla 89Chocolate 90Coffee and Tea 90Herbs and Spices 91Nuts 94Alcoholic Beverages 96

4 Mise En Place __________________________________ 99

FORMULAS AND RECIPES 100Standardized Formulas 100Working with Formulas 100Production Planning 101

MEASURING INGREDIENTS 101Measurement Formats 101Scaling Ingredients 103Measurement Systems 104Converting Grams and Ounces 104Temperature Measurements 105

CONVERTING FORMULAS 106Converting Total Yield 107Converting Portion Size 107Additional Conversion Challenges 108Baker’s Percentage 109Yield Percentage 112

KNIFE SKILLS 112Using Knives Safely 113Caring For and Sharpening Your Knives 113

PREPARING EQUIPMENT 113PREPARING INGREDIENTS 114

Ensuring Ingredients Are at the Proper Temperature 114Making Bread, Cake or Cookie Crumbs 114Clarifying Butter 115Toasting Nuts and Spices 115Blanching Nuts 115Preparing Nut Flour 116Flavoring Ingredients 116Steeping 116Conditioning 117Blanching and Parboiling 117Making an Ice Bath 117Making a Hot-Water Bath 117

5 Principles of Baking ________________________119

MIXING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES 120The Importance of Gluten 120The Importance of Moisture 121

HEAT TRANSFER AND THE SCIENCE OF BAKING 122Conduction 122Convection 123Radiation 123

BAKING AND COOKING METHODS 124THE BAKING PROCESS AND THE STAGES OF BAKING 124

Fats Melt 125Gases Form 125Gases Are Trapped 126Microorganisms Are Killed 126Starches Gelatinize 126Proteins Coagulate 127Water Evaporates and Gases Escape 127Sugars Caramelize 127Carryover Baking Occurs 128Staling Begins 128

FLAVOR AND TASTE 128Tastes: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Umami 129The Trigeminal Effect 130Texture and Mouthfeel 130Perception of Flavors 131

FLAVORING FOOD IN THE BAKESHOP 132Describing Aromas and Flavors in Food 132Bakeshop Flavor Combinations 133

PART TWO BREADS

6 Quick Breads _________________________________135

CHEMICAL LEAVENING AGENTS 136Baking Soda 136Baking Powder 137Baking Ammonia 137Purchasing and Storing Chemical Leavening Agents 137

MIXING METHODS FOR QUICK BREADS 138Biscuit Method 138Muffin Method 140Creaming Method 144Storing Quick Breads 145Troubleshooting Quick Breads 146

GRIDDLECAKES 146


C O N T E N T S xvii

7 Basic Yeast Breads __________________________167

YEAST 168Temperature, Moisture and Salt 168Types of Yeast 169

PRODUCTION STAGES FOR YEAST BREADS 171Stage 1: Scaling the Ingredients 171Stage 2: Mixing and Kneading the Dough 172Stage 3: Fermenting the Dough 175Stage 4: Folding (Punching Down) the Dough 176Stage 5: Portioning the Dough 177Stage 6: Rounding the Portions 177Stage 7: Make-Up: Shaping the Portions 177Stage 8: Proofing the Products 180Stage 9: Baking the Products 181Stage 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Products 183

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING YEAST BREADS 183QUALITIES OF BREAD 186

8 Preferments and Natural Starters _________________________________________207

PREFERMENTS 208Types of Preferments 208Ingredients for Preferments 209Mixing Dough with Preferments 209

NATURAL STARTERS 215Making a Natural Starter 215Mixing Bread Made with Natural Starters 218

FERMENTATION, MAKE-UP AND BAKING WITH PREFERMENTS AND NATURAL STARTERS 220QUALITIES OF BREADS MADE USING PREFERMENTS AND NATURAL STARTER 220

9 Enriched Yeast Breads ____________________239

ENRICHED YEAST DOUGH 240Mixing Enriched Yeast Dough 241Make-Up: Shaping Enriched Yeast Dough 241Proofing Enriched Yeast Dough 243Baking Enriched Yeast Dough 243Cooling, Finishing and Storing Enriched Yeast Dough Products 243

PROCEDURES FOR PREPARING ENRICHED YEAST DOUGH 243

Basic Sweet Dough or Bun Dough 245Brioche 247

DEEP-FRIED ENRICHED YEAST DOUGH AND SPECIALTY DOUGH PRODUCTS 250

Fats for Deep-Frying 250Deep-Frying Enriched Dough Products 251Doughnuts 251

10 Laminated Doughs _______________________277

PREPARING LAMINATED DOUGH 278Preparing the Dough for Laminated Products 278Selecting and Preparing the Fat for Lamination 279Enclosing the Fat into the Base Dough 279

Rolling and Folding the Dough to Develop Layers 280Shaping Laminated Dough for Baking 282

PUFF PASTRY 282Making and Folding Puff Pastry Dough 282Shaping Puff Pastry 285

YEAST-RAISED LAMINATED DOUGH 288Production Stages for Yeast-Raised Rolled-In Doughs 289Croissants 291Danish Pastry 294

PART THREE DESSERTS AND PASTRIES

11 Cookies and Brownies __________________315

COOKIES 316Mixing Methods for Cookies 316Make-Up Methods for Cookies 318Panning Cookies 322Baking Cookies 322Cookie Formula Balance 322Finishing Cookies 324Storing Cookies 327

BROWNIES 328Brownie Formulas 328Flavoring Brownies 329Storing Brownies 330

12 Pies and Tarts ______________________________371

PIE CRUSTS AND TART SHELLS 372Flaky and Mealy Pie Doughs 372Sweet Tart Dough (Pâte Sucrée) and Shortbread Tart Dough (Pâte Sablée) 375Crumb Crusts 376Shaping Crusts 377Baking Pies and Crusts 381

FILLINGS FOR PIES AND TARTS 382Starches for Pies 382Cream Fillings 383Fruit Fillings 385Custard Fillings 388Chiffon Fillings 389

ASSEMBLING PIES AND TARTS 389STORING PIES AND TARTS 392

13 Pastry and Dessert Components ________________________________421

ÉCLAIR PASTE 422Preparing Éclair Paste 422Filling Éclairs 425Finishing Éclairs 425

MERINGUE 427Meringue Preparations 428Browning Meringue 432Nut Meringue Preparations 432Filling and Storing Baked Meringue 433

STRUDEL DOUGH 433PHYLLO DOUGH 436CRÊPES 437


14 Cakes __________________________________________451

INGREDIENTS FOR CAKES 452MIXING METHODS FOR CAKES 453

High-Fat Cakes 454Whipped Egg Cakes 458

PANNING, BAKING AND COOLING CAKES 466Preparing Cake Pans 466Filling Cake Pans 466Baking Cakes 467Cooling Cakes 468

STORING CAKES 469

15 Icings and Cake Assembly _____________479

PREPARING ICINGS 480Buttercream 480Foam Icing 486Fudge Icing 486Fondant 486Glaze 488Royal Icing 489Ganache 490

ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES 492Assembling Cakes 492Simple Cake Decorating Techniques 494Piping Techniques 495Covering and Decorating a Cake with Rolled Fondant 501

SPECIALTY CAKES 503Specialty Cakes and Fillings 504Assembling Specialty Cakes 504Decorating Specialty Cakes 505Constructing Extreme Specialty Cakes 505

CUTTING AND PORTIONING CAKES 506STORING ASSEMBLED CAKES 508

16 Custards, Creams and Sauces _______517

CUSTARDS 518Handling Eggs in Custards 518Stirred Custards 518Baked Custards 525Soufflés 531

CREAMS 533Crème Chantilly 533Bavarian Cream 534Chiffon 536Mousse 537

DESSERT SAUCES 542Fruit Purées 543Caramel Sauce 544Chocolate Syrup 544

17 Ice Cream and Frozen Desserts _____571

CHURNED FROZEN DESSERTS 572Ice Cream and Gelato 573Sorbet and Sherbet 576Serving Suggestions for Ice Cream and Sorbet 579Granita 580

STILL-FROZEN DESSERTS 582FROZEN TORTES AND BOMBES 583

18 Healthy Baking and Special Diets __597

PRINCIPLES OF HEALTHY BAKING 598Portion Size 598Ingredient Selection 599Developing and Modifying Formulas 599

ACCOMMODATING SPECIAL DIETS 600Low-Sodium Diets 600Low-Sugar Diets 600Low-Fat Diets 603Dairy-Free Diets 604Gluten-Free Diets 605Allergen-Free Diets 606Vegetarian and Vegan Diets 606Weight Loss Diets 607

COMMUNICATING WITH THE HEALTH CONSCIOUS CUSTOMER 607

PART FOUR ADVANCED PASTRY WORK

19 Tortes and Entremets ___________________633

TORTES AND ENTREMETS 634Cakes for Tortes and Entremets 635Fillings for Tortes and Entremets 638

ASSEMBLING AND GARNISHING TORTES AND ENTREMETS 639

Assembling Tortes and Entremets 639Garnishing Tortes and Entremets 641

PORTIONING TORTES AND ENTREMETS 642STORING TORTES AND ENTREMETS 642

20 Petits Fours _________________________________657

PETIT FOUR VARIETIES 658Fresh Petits Fours 659Iced Petits Fours 661Dry Petits Fours 663Glazed Fruit Petits Fours 666Petits Fours Prestige 666

SERVING PETITS FOURS 666

21 Chocolate ____________________________________681

CHOCOLATE PRODUCTION 682Types of Chocolate 683Chocolate Labeling 686Storing Bulk Chocolate 686

MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE 687Melting Chocolate 687Tempering Chocolate 688Handling Tempered Chocolate 691

CHOCOLATE DECORATIONS 691Tempered Chocolate Decorations 691Modeling Chocolate Decorations 698

xviii C O N T E N T S


CHOCOLATE CANDIES 701Dipped Chocolate Candies 701Molded Chocolates 704Storing Filled Chocolates and Chocolate Candies 707

CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECES 707

22 Plated Desserts ___________________________723

DESSERT SERVICE 724Serving Desserts 724Creating New Items for a Dessert Menu 725

PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR DESSERTS 726Choosing Plates 726Arranging Desserts on the Plate 726Composing Plated Desserts 728Garnishing Plated Desserts 731

23 Sugar Work and Confections ________749

SUGAR WORK 750Caramel 750Isomalt 754

CONFECTIONS 755Nougatine 756Marzipan 758

ADVANCED SUGAR WORK 761Pastillage 761Pulled and Blown Sugar 768

Appendix I ________________________________________787

Appendix II _______________________________________790

Appendix III ______________________________________791

Glossary ___________________________________________ 795

Bibliography and Recommended Reading ____________________________________________ 807

Recipe Index ______________________________________ 811

Subject Index _____________________________________ 821

Credits ______________________________________________ 830

C O N T E N T S xix


Lemon Tea Bread 163Sour Cream Coffeecake 164Flour Tortillas 165American-Style Waffles 166

Pecan Waffles 166Whipped Honey, Orange

Cardamom Butter 166Blueberry Almond Butter 166

7 Basic Yeast Breads Soft Yeast Dinner Rolls 184

Whole-Grain and Oat Dinner Rolls 184

White Sandwich Bread 189Whole-Wheat Sandwich Bread 189Cloverleaf Rolls 189

Pullman Loaves 190Oatmeal Bread 191Hamburger or Hot Dog Rolls 192Potato Herb Rolls 193

Potato Herb Pull-Apart Loaf 193Olive Herb Potato Rolls 193

Potato Cheddar Cheese Bread 194Jalapeño Cheese Bread 195

Cheddar Bacon Bread 195Kaiser or Vienna Rolls 196French or Italian Bread 197Nine-Grain Bread 198Grissini (Dry Italian-Style

Bread Sticks) 199Plain Bagels 200

Long-Fermented Bagels 201Tomato Basil Bagels 201Cinnamon Raisin Bagels 201

Pita Bread 201Focaccia (Roman Flatbread) 202

Garlic Focaccia 202Blue Cheese and Red Onion

Focaccia 202Cherry Tomato and Basil

Focaccia 202Pizza Dough 203Swiss Chard and Ricotta Calzone 204Tarte Flambée (Alsatian

Onion Tart) 205Decorating Dough 206

8 Preferments and Natural Starters

Basic Old Dough 210Carrot Bread with Herbs 211Light Rye Bread 212Basic Poolish 214

Formulas

3 Bakeshop Ingredients Simple Syrup (Heavy) 56Crème Fraîche 63

4 Mis En Place Pan Coating 114

6 Quick Breads Country Biscuits 140Basic Blueberry Muffins 142

Yogurt or Sour Cream Muffins 143Pecan or Walnut Spice Muffins 143Mango Coconut Muffins 143Cranberry and Dried

Apricot Muffins 143Cherry Almond Muffins 143Raspberry Lemon Muffins 143Apple Beet Muffins 143

Sour Cream Muffins 144Streusel Topping 145Buttermilk Pancakes 147

Blueberry Pancakes 147Apple Pecan Pancakes 147

Cream Scones 149Savory Greek-Style Scones 149Chocolate Cherry Scones 150

Cinnamon Orange Scones 150Cranberry Sour Cream Scones 151Shortcakes 152Irish Wheaten Bread 152Whole Grain Morning Glory Muffins 153Bran Muffins with Raisins 153Pumpkin Muffins 154

Sweet Potato Muffins 154Cranberry and Chocolate

Chip Pumpkin Muffins 154Cocoa Pear Muffins 155Corn Muffins 156

Southern-Style Cornbread 156Jalapeño Cheddar Corn Muffins 156

Bacon Cheddar Corn Muffins 157Hush Puppies (Deep-Fried

Cornbread) 157Orange Cranberry Bread 158Zucchini Bread 158

Zucchini Muffins 159Dark Gingerbread Cake 159Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 160Apple Cranberry Sour Cream

Muffins 161Banana Bread 162

Chocolate Chip Banana Muffins 162Strawberry Banana Muffins 162

Artisan Wheat Bread 214Natural Starter (Chef) 217Italian Country Sourdough Loaves 219Traditional French Baguettes with

Old Dough 222Olive Bread 223

Fougasse with Olives 224Plain Fougasse 224

Multigrain Oat Bread 225Artisan Baguettes 226Rye Bread 227

Country Rye Bread with Currants 227

Ciabatta 228Black Olive Ciabatta 228

Artisan Sprouted-Wheat Loaves 229Onion Walnut Bread 230Pretzels 231English Muffins 232Naan (Indian-Style Flatbread) 233

Garlic Naan 233Simple Natural Starter 234Pain au Levain (Traditional

French Sourdough Bread) 235Pain au Levain with Nuts 235Pain au Levain with Garlic

and Herbs 235Pain au Levain with Three

Cheeses 235Pain au Levain with Walnuts

and Cranberries 235Rustic Long-Fermented

Sourdough Bread 236Multigrain Sourdough Bread 238

9 Enriched Yeast Breads Challah 244Sweet Bun Dough 246

Quick Fermented Sweet Bun Dough 247

Cardamom Sweet Bun Dough 247Brioche 248

Raisin Brioche 248Savory Cheese and Herb Brioche 248

Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 252Soft Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 253Filled Doughnuts 253Bismarcks 253

Cinnamon Swirl Raisin Bread 256Jumbo Cinnamon Buns 257

Cream Cheese-Glazed Cinnamon Buns 257

Cinnamon Bun Coffeecake 257Powdered Sugar Glaze 257

Formulas printed in blue can be prepared in a 2–3 hour class period.

xx


11 Cookies and Brownies Chocolate Chunk Cookies 317Apricot Fruit Spread 326Decorative Cookie Icing 327Fudge Brownies 329Blueberry Fruit Spread 331Strawberry and Cranberry

Fruit Spread 331Cherry and Cranberry

Fruit Spread 331Oatmeal Cookies 332Chocolate Chewies 332Carrot Cake “Cookies” 333Lime and Pineapple Coconut

Macaroons 334Chocolate Drizzled Coconut

Macaroons 334Coconut Raspberry Macaroons 334Chocolate Coconut Macaroons 334

Snickerdoodles (Cinnamon Butter Cookies) 335

Checkerboard Cookies 336Traditional Shortbread 337

Bergamot Shortbread 337Pecan Shortbread 337

Green Tea Shortbread 338Lemon and Black Sesame

Shortbread 338Black Currant Shortbread 338

Blueberry-Filled Ginger Cookies 339Chewy Ginger Cookies 339

Cuccidati (Sicilian Fig Cookies) 340Biscotti 341

Orange Biscotti 341Anise Biscotti 341Chocolate Biscotti 341

Oat Chocolate Chip Bar Cookies 342Lemon or Lime Bars 342Pecan Squares 343Granola Bars 344Whole Wheat and Oatmeal

Crumble Bars 345Alfajores (Dulce de Leche

Cookies) 346Mirror Cookies 347

Raspberry Streusel Squares 347Luxembergers 347Almond Macaronnade 347

Sugar Cookies 348Linzer Cookies 349

Salted Caramel Linzer Cookies 349Gingerbread Cookies 350Speculaas (Belgian Spice Cookies) 351

Speculaas Spices 351Dijon Mustard Black Pepper

Crackers 352Whole-Wheat Crackers 352Graham Crackers 353Rugelach Cookies 354Spritz Cookies 355

Citrus Spritz Cookies 355

Pain De Mie (Sandwich Bread) 258Milk Bread 259Cinnamon Babka Twist Loaf 260Sweet Dough Coffeecakes 261

Sugar-Glazed Coffeecakes 261Hot Cross Buns 262

Bun Glaze 263Pecan Sticky Buns 264Conchas 265Parisian Brioche 266Kugelhopf 267

Chocolate-Glazed Kugelhopf 267Rum Babas with Crème Chantilly 268Stollen 269Panettone 270Bienenstich (Bee Sting Pastry) 271Apple Fritters 272

Banana Fritters 272Cake Doughnut Holes 273Buñuelos (Mexican-Style

Doughnuts) 274Beignets (French-Style

Doughnuts) 275Belgian Waffles 276

10 Laminated Doughs Puff Pastry 284Croissants 292Danish Pastry Dough 294Cream Cheese Filling 299Frangipane 299

Green Tea Frangipane 299Chocolate Frangipane 299Pistachio Frangipane 299

Almond Paste Filling 300Pistachio Almond Paste Filling 300

Ricotta Cheese Filling 300Thickened Cherries 301Coconut Cream Filling 301

Pineapple Coconut Moons 301Quick Puff Pastry 303Apple Turnovers 304

Cherry Turnovers 304Individual Puff Pastry Fruit Tarts 305Gateau Pithiviers 305Palmiers 306Puff Pastry Fans 307Cream-Filled Napoleons 308Two-Toned Croissants 309

Cocoa-Colored Pain au Chocolate 309

Almond Orange Croissants 310Chocolate Pistachio Croissants 310Ham and Cheese Croissants 310

European Danish Dough 311Cinnamon Rolls 312

Cinnamon Roll Paste 312Custard Cherry Roll 313

Apricot Pistachio Pinwheels 313Almond Raspberry Bear Claws 313

Kouign Amann (Breton Butter Cake) 314

Cinnamon Spritz Cookies 355Chocolate Spritz Cookies 355

Amaretti 356Whoopie Pies 357Gingersnaps 358Butter Cookies 358Almond Horns 359Peanut Butter Sandies 360Swedish Yule Logs 361

Polvorones (Mexican Wedding Cookies) 361

Chinese-Style Almond Cookies 362Tuile Batter (Tulipe Cookies) 363

Russian-Style Cigarette Cookies 363Almond Tuiles 364Coconut Tuiles 365Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownies 366Cream Cheese Sun-Dried Cherry

Brownies 367Cream Cheese Topping 368Sun-Dried Cherry Jam 368

German Chocolate Layered Brownies 369

Blondies 370

12 Pies and Tarts Basic Pie Dough 374Sweet Tart Dough (Pâte Sucrée) 376Basic Crumb Crust 377Basic Cream Pie 384

Banana Cream Pie 385Coconut Cream Pie I 385Coconut Cream Pie II 385Meringue-Topped Cream Pie 385

Apple-Cranberry Pie 386Apple-Rhubarb Pie 386

Cherry Pie 387Blueberry Pie with Lattice Crust 388Pumpkin Pie 389Fresh Fruit Tart 391Shortbread Tart Dough

(Pâte Sablée) 394Coconut Shortbread Tart

Dough (Pâte Sablée à la Noix de Coco) 395

Sweet Almond Tart Dough (Pâte Sucrée Aux Amandes) 396

Coconut Almond Tart Dough 396Chocolate Tart Dough

(Pâte Sucrée au Chocolat) 396Pâte Brisée 397Neutral Glaze 398Lemon Meringue Pie 398Chocolate Cream Pie 399

Meringue-Coated Chocolate Cream Pie 399

Peanut Butter Pie 400Individual Fresh Strawberry Pies 401Strawberry Rhubarb Pie 402Blackberry Crumble 403Summer Berry Cobbler 404

F O R M U L A S xxi


xxii F O R M U L A S

Dried Apricot and Pistachio Dacquoise 446

Pistachio Dacquoise 446Chocolate or Macadamia Nut

Dacquoise 446Gluten-Free Dacquoise 446

Lemon Dacquoise Cake 447Phyllo Dough Apple Strudel 448Strawberry Basil Phyllo Napoleon 449

Phyllo Crisps 449Crêpes Suzette 450

14 Cakes Poundcake 456

Chocolate Poundcake 456French-Style Fruitcake 456

Two-Stage Yellow Butter Cake 457Spice Cake 457

Classic Genoise 460Chocolate Genoise 460

Classic Spongecake 462Chocolate Spongecake 462

Angel Food Cake 464Chocolate Angel Food Cake 464Lemon Angel Food Cake 464

Orange Chiffon Cake 465Lemon Chiffon Cake 465Gluten-Free Orange Chiffon

Cake 465Yellow Cake 471Chocolate and Almond Flour Cake 472

White Chocolate Chunk Flourless Chocolate Cake 472

Pistachio or Hazelnut Flourless Chocolate Cake 472

Marble Cake 473Devil’s Food Cake 474Sticky Toffee Pudding 475Almond Genoise 476

Pistachio Almond Genoise 476Vanilla Spongecake 476

Swiss Jelly Roll 477Pistachio Spongecake 477

Ladyfingers 477Ladyfinger Bands 477Matcha Ladyfingers 477

Chocolate Lava Cakes 478

15 Icings and Cake Assembly Simple Buttercream 482

Light Chocolate Buttercream 482Lemon or Orange Buttercream 482Peanut Buttercream 482

Italian Buttercream 483Chocolate Italian Buttercream 483Lemon Italian Buttercream 483Coffee Italian Buttercream 483

Traditional French Buttercream 484Mocha French Buttercream 484Citrus French Buttercream 484White Chocolate Buttercream 484

Baked Streusel for Crumble 404Peach Pie with Decorative Crust 405Pear Hazelnut Crisp 406Freeform Apple Tarts 406Hand Pies 408Deep-Dish Apple Crumb Pie 409Pecan Pie 410Sweet Potato Pie 411Buttermilk Pie 411Lemon or Lime Curd Tart 412Key Lime Pie 414Lime Mango Tartlets 414Strawberry Cream Tartlets 415Black and Blueberry Tartlets 415French-Style Apple Tart 416

Tarte Bourdalou (Pear Frangipane Tart) 416

Apricot Tart 416Linzer Tart 417Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart 418French-Style Onion Tart 418Rustic Vegetable Galettes 419Quiche Lorraine 420

13 Pastry and Dessert Components

Éclair Paste (Pâte à Choux) 424Smooth Surface Éclairs 425

Chocolate Éclairs 426Coffee Cream-Filled Éclairs 426Raspberry Cream-Filled Éclairs 427

Éclair Glaze 427Common (French) Meringue 429

Chocolate Meringue 429Coffee Meringue 429Lemon or Orange Meringue 429Coconut Meringue 429Almond Meringue 429Meringue Drops and Sticks 429

Swiss Meringue 430Italian Meringue 432Apple Strudel 434Baklava Pastries 436Crêpes 438

Savory Crêpes 438Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce 440Paris-Brest 440

Paris-Brest Cream 441Individual St. Honoré Pastries 441Streusel-Topped Cream Puff Shells 442Churros (Fluted Mexican

Doughnuts) 442Fruit Meringue Decorations 443Merveilleux Pastries 444Rochers (Meringue Cookies) 444

Chocolate-Dipped Rochers 445Chocolate Nib Rochers 445Mocha Rochers 445

Individual Pavlova 445Dacquoise 446

Nougatine Dacquoise 446

Basic Fudge Icing 486Cocoa Fudge Icing 486Basic Poured Fondant 487Basic Rolled Fondant 488Basic Sugar Glaze 489Basic Chocolate Glaze 489Royal Icing 490Silky Ganache Deluxe 491Cream Cheese Icing 509

Reduced-Fat Cream Cheese Icing 509

French Mousseline Buttercream 509Chocolate Mousseline

Buttercream 509Fondant Glaze 510

Orange Fondant Glaze 510Raspberry Fondant Glaze 510

Caramel Nut Filling or Icing 510German Chocolate Cake 511

Coconut Pecan Icing 511Carrot Cake 512Devil’s Food Layer Cake 513Tres Leches Cake 514Coconut Lemon Cake 515Mocha Torte 516

Candied Almonds 516Candied Pecans or Walnuts 516

16 Custards, Creams and Sauces

Vanilla Custard Sauce 520Chocolate Custard Sauce 520Coffee Custard Sauce 520Earl Grey Custard Sauce 520Frangelico Custard Sauce 520Ginger Custard Sauce 520Pistachio Custard Sauce 520Saffron Custard Sauce 520

Pastry Cream 522Chocolate Pastry Cream 522Coffee Pastry Cream 522Coconut Pastry Cream 522Mousseline Pastry Cream 522White Chocolate Mousseline

Pastry Cream 522Chocolate Buttercream

Filling 522Lemon or Lime Curd 524

Orange Bergamot Curd 524Passion Fruit Curd 524

Champagne Sabayon 525Toffee Caramel Flan 526Baked Crème Brûlée 528

Chocolate Crème Brûlée 528Hazelnut Crème Brûlée 528Lavender Crème Brûlée 528Red Wine Crème Brûlée 528Lactose-Free Crème Brûlée 528

New York Cheesecake 530Grand Marnier Soufflé 532

Coffee Soufflé 532


F O R M U L A S xxiii

Panna Cotta (Italian Cooked Cream Pudding) 561

Buttermilk Panna Cotta 561Earl Grey Panna Cotta 561Panna Cotta with Blueberry

Gelée 561Dark and White Chocolate

Panna Cotta 562Milk Chocolate Panna Cotta 562

Raspberry Mousse 562Lemon-Lime Mousse 563Mascarpone Cream Mousse 564

Cream Cheese Mousse 564Hazelnut Cream Filling 565Minted Peach Coulis 565Mint Coulis 565Pineapple Sauce 566Lemon Butter Sauce 566Chunky Blueberry Sauce 567Warm Wine Sauce 567

Cold Wine Sauce 567Butterscotch Sauce 568Clear Caramel Sauce 568Fruit Caramel Sauce 568Kumquat Sauce 569Candied Citrus Peel Sauce 569Chocolate Caramel Sauce 570

Vegan Chocolate Caramel Sauce 570Chocolate Fudge Sauce 570

Mint Chocolate Fudge Sauce 570

17 Ice Cream and Frozen Desserts

Ice Cream Base 575Chocolate Ice Cream 575Cappuccino Ice Cream 575Brandied Cherry Ice Cream 575

Mango Sorbet 578Coconut Sorbet 578

Coffee Granita 581Lemon, Lime or Grapefruit

Granita 581Coffee Rum Parfait 582Pistachio Apricot Bombe 584French Ice Cream Base 586

Anise Ice Cream 586Banana-Nut Ice Cream 586Chestnut Ice Cream 586Coconut Ice Cream 586Coffee Ice Cream 586Ginger Ice Cream 586Hazelnut Ice Cream 586Indian Cardamom and

Pistachio Ice Cream 586Mint Ice Cream 586Pistachio Ice Cream 586Roasted Peach Ice Cream 586Vanilla Ice Cream 586

Gelato Base 587Candied Orange Gelato 587Coffee Gelato 587

Crème Chantilly (Chantilly Cream) 534Chocolate Chantilly 534Stabilized Whipped Cream 534

Bavarian Cream 535Milk Chocolate Bavarian Cream 535Rum Bavarian Cream 535Blueberry or Raspberry

Bavarian Cream 535Charlotte 536Lime Chiffon Pie 537

Lemon Chiffon 537Orange Chiffon 537

Classic Chocolate Mousse 538Contemporary Chocolate Mousse 540

Flavored Chocolate Mousse 541Apricot Mousse 542Fruit Coulis 543Caramel Sauce 544

Salted Caramel Sauce 544Vegan Caramel Sauce 544Caramel Filling 544

Dark Chocolate Syrup 545Chocolate Cremeux 546

Cocoa Streusel 547Chocolate and Mango Cremeux 547

Mango Gelée 547Diplomat Cream Filling 548Crème Chiboust 548Passion Fruit Chiboust Tarts 549

Passion Fruit Crème Chiboust 549Raspberry Cream Filling 550Cherry Clafouti 550Crème Brûlée for Tarts 551Crème Brûlée 551

Coffee Crème Brûlée 551Ginger Crème Brûlée 551

Chocolate Pots de Crème 552Caramel Nut Cheesecake 552Individual Vanilla Cheesecakes 553

Cappuccino Cheesecakes 553Milk Chocolate Cheesecakes 553

Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce 554Banana Bread Pudding 554Apricot Brioche Bread Pudding 554Chocolate Bread Pudding 554Bourbon Sauce 554

Pain Perdu (French Toast) 555Rice Cream Pudding with

Cherry Gelée 556Cinnamon Raisin Rice

Cream with Strawberry Gelée 556Rice Pudding 556

Chocolate Soufflé 557Dairy-Free Chocolate Soufflé 557

One-Step Lemon Curd 558White Chocolate Frangelico Bavarian 558Chocolate Chiffon Pie 559Orange Milk Chocolate Mousse 559Raspberry Mousseline 560White Chocolate Mousse 560

White Chocolate Mousse Bars 560Simple Chocolate Mousse 561

Stracciatella 587Matcha Gelato 587

Chocolate Gelato 588Strawberry Ice Cream 588Apricot, Peach, Pear or Pineapple

Sorbet 589Lemon or Lime Sorbet 589Basil Lemon Sorbet 589Banana or Kiwi Sorbet 589Raspberry, Cherry, Blackberry

or Three Red Fruit Sorbet 589Green Apple or Wild Strawberry

Sorbet 589Blueberry, Red Currant or

Black Currant Sorbet 589Passion Fruit Sorbet 589Mandarin or Orange Sorbet 589Champagne Sorbet 589

Champagne-Rose Sorbet 590Lemon Sorbet 590Grapefruit Sorbet 591

Raspberry Sorbet 591Sorbet Sandwiches 591Coffee Sherbet 592Champagne Spoom 592Pineapple Granita 593Frozen Orange Soufflé 593Bananas Foster 594Baked Alaska 595

Individual Baked Alaska 595Chocolate Semifreddo 596

18 Healthy Baking and Special Diets

Pears Poached in Red Wine 609Fresh Raspberry Jam 610Warm Baked Peaches or

Nectarines 610Gratin of Fresh Berries with

Crème Fraîche 611Sautéed Apricots 611Chia Pudding (Vegan) 612Hazelnut Shortbread (Sugar-Free) 612Mango Ginger Jam

(No-Sugar-Added) 613Apple-Almond Poundcake

(No-Sugar-Added, Reduced-Fat) 613

Mango Mousse Torte (Nonfat) 614Carrot Cake Squares

(Reduced-Fat) 615Strawberry and Mango

Parfait (Reduced-Fat) 616Trifle Cream (Reduced-Fat) 616

Chocolate Silk Pie (Lactose-Free) 617Gluten-Free Flour Mix 617Flaxseed Bread (Gluten-Free) 618Chocolate Chip Cookies

(Gluten-Free) 619Peanut Butter Cookies

(Gluten-Free) 619


xxiv F O R M U L A S

Palomo Entremet 652Bergamot Entremet 653Empress Torte 654Tiramisu Torte 655Mascarpone Chocolate Raspberry

Dome Cake 656

20 Petits Fours Lemon Tartlets 660Iced Raspberry Petits Fours 662

Raspberry Petits Fours 662French Almond Macarons 664

Chocolate Macarons 665Apricot Passion Fruit Ganache

Tartlets 668San Diegos 669

Valencias 669Opéra Cake 670Langues de Chat (Cat’s Tongue

Cookies) 671Lemon Sandwich Cookies 671

Bokkenpootjes (Dutch Goat’s Feet Cookies) 672

Madeleines 673Cherry-Almond Florentines 674Chocolate Pecan Cakes 675Financiers 676Stroopwafels (Caramel-Filled

Waffles) 677Crêpes Dentelles (Lacy Crêpe Cookies) 677Cocoa Nib Tuiles 678Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Bites 679White Chocolate Mousse Bites 680

21 Chocolate Dark Modeling Chocolate 699White Modeling Chocolate 699Dark Chocolate Truffles 703Chocolate Flower and Pillar

Showpiece 708Cocoa Butter Modeling Chocolate 711

White Modeling Chocolate Made with Corn Syrup 711

Gianduja 712Mendiant (Bittersweet Chocolate,

Nut and Dried Fruit Disks) 713Ruby Chocolate Mendiants 713Palets d’Or (Bittersweet and Vanilla

Chocolates) 714Irish Cream (Chocolate, Coffee

and Whiskey Ganache Squares) 714Vioni (Milk Chocolate and Vanilla

Squares) 715Rochers (Caramel, Almond and

Orange Chocolates) 716Hazelnut Crisps 716Nougatine Slivers 717Chocolate, Fruit and Nut Bars 717Noble (Raspberry Ganache

Chocolates) 718

Brownies (Gluten-Free) 620Apple Pie (Gluten-Free) 621

Pie Dough (Gluten-Free) 621Italian Cream Cake (Gluten-Free) 622Almond Milk (Vegan) 623

Nut Milk Creamer 623Vanilla Cake (Lactose-Free, Vegan) 624Aquafaba Italian Meringue (Vegan) 625Pie or Tart Dough (Vegan) 626Lime or Lemon Tartlets (Vegan) 626Pumpkin or Sweet Potato Pie

(Vegan) 627Fruit-Flavored Pastry Cream

(Vegan) 627Chocolate Mousse with Mango Coulis

(Vegan) 628Coconut-Milk Chocolate Cream

(Vegan) 628Coconut-Milk Chocolate Cream with

Raspberry Coulis and Vanilla Cake (Vegan) 629

Hazelnut Streusel (Vegan) 629Chocolate Hazelnut Streusel

(Vegan) 629Maple Cashew Ice Cream (Vegan) 630

Maple Cashew Ice Cream with Salted Pecans 630

Chocolate Raspberry Torte (Vegan) 631

Raspberry Ganache 632

19 Tortes and Entremets Joconde Cake 636

Fruit and Nut Joconde Cake 636Patterned Joconde Cake 637

Patterned Joconde Cake with Cocoa Décor Paste 637

Raspberry or Mango Gelée 638Apricot, Black Currant,

Blueberry or Peach Gelée 638Almond Biscuit 643

Almond Biscuit with Hazelnuts 643Pistachio Biscuit 643

Strawberry Gelée 644Cherry Gelée 644Cocoa Gelée 644Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645

Milk Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645White Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645

Bûche de Noël (Yule Log) 646Mocha Rum Yule Log 646Passion Fruit Yule Log 646Meringue Mushrooms 647

Sacher Torte 647Nobilis Torte 648

Hazelnut and Cherry Meringue Cake 648

Mango Mascarpone Torte 649Rio Torte 650

Coconut Macadamia Cake 650Fraisier (French-Style Strawberry Cake) 651

Faun (Hazelnut Ganache Chocolates) 719

Ceylon (Milk Chocolate and Cinnamon Ganache Chocolates) 719

Passion (White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Ganache Chocolates) 720

Baho (Ginger, Lime and Caramel Cream–Filled Chocolates) 720

Caravelle (Marzipan, Raspberry and Hazelnut Chocolates) 721

Pona (Orange Cream–Filled Chocolates) 722

22 Plated Desserts Candied Citrus Peel 737Chocolate Coconut “Dirt” 737Toasted Coconut Curls 738Fruit “Pearls” 738Lemon Lace Cookies 739Raspberry Lace Cookies 739Pistachio Ice Cream Filled

Profiteroles 740Brownie with Orange Marshmallow

and Mandarin Sorbet 741Lime Banana Verrine 741White Chocolate Mousse on

Rhubarb with Strawberry Ice Cream 742

Warm Rhubarb in Orange Syrup 742

Domed Cheesecake with Pineapple Skewer and Mango Sorbet 743

Cheesecake Domes 743Lemon-Lime Mousse with Black

Currant Sorbet 744Deconstructed Black Forest Cake 744Cheesecake with Black Currant

Sorbet 745Flambéed Pineapple in Crêpes with

Blackberry Sorbet 746Palmiers with Baked Nectarines,

Peach Sorbet and Champagne Sabayon 747

S’mores on a Plate 747Chocolate Mousse with Strawberry

Sorbet 748

23 Sugar Work and Confections Caramel 751Decorating Caramel 752Isomalt Lace 755Basic Nougatine 757

Hazelnut or Walnut Nougatine 757Cocoa Nougatine 757Sesame Seed Nougatine 757Coffee Nougatine 757

Marzipan 758Marzipan Pear 760Marzipan Happy Pig 761


F O R M U L A S xxv

Assembling Pulled and Blown Sugar Flower 775

Caramel-Dipped Fruits 776Sugar-Based Nougatine 777

Hazelnut or Walnut Nougatine 777Coffee Nougatine 777

Nougatine Cups 777Nougat Montélimar 778Caramel Candies 779Peanut Brittle 780

Hazelnut Brittle 780

Pastillage 762Matisse-Inspired Showpiece 764

Showpiece Tube Supports 765Showpiece Base 766Showpiece Philodendron Leaves 766Hibiscus-Style Flowers 767Showpiece Assembly 767

Basic Pulled and Blown Sugar 770Making the Pulled Sugar Flower Petals 773Making the Blown Sugar Sphere

(Core of the Flower) 774

Tua-Tad (Thai-Style Peanut-Sesame Brittle) 780

Pecan Pralines 781Marshmallows 782

Flavored Marshmallows 782Raspberry Pâte de Fruit 783Gum Paste 784Green Marzipan Bombe 785

Marzipan Flowers 785Pastillage Calla Lilies 786


On Baking: A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals builds on the successful approach developed in On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals. This is a carefully designed text intended to teach both the principles and practices of baking and the pastry arts. The baking information presented in On Cooking is suitable for culinary students seeking a general knowledge of baking. On Baking takes the same clear, organ-ized approach and expands the material into far greater depth, covering techniques and formulas required for core and advanced baking and pastry programs.

This text aims to teach professional culinary students core baking principles and the skills necessary to produce a wide array of baked goods, desserts and confections. Our goal is not merely to offer a collection of recipes or formulas, although there are over 750 formulas and variations for a wide variety of baked goods and confections. We include these formulas to illustrate the techniques presented in the teaching sections of each chapter. Throughout the text, we discuss both the “how” and “why” of baking. Extensive step-by-step photographs help illustrate techniques used to, for example, form bread dough, shape cookies or temper chocolate, while complete formulas present the baking principles and procedures. Throughout the text we provide extensive illustrated sections identifying bakeshop ingredients and equipment. We believe that a thorough understand-ing of the function of ingredients will serve you well throughout your baking career.

Winner of the 2004 Gourmand World Cookbook Award as the “Best Book for Food Professionals in the World,” On Baking has been uniformly praised for its organization, clarity, ease of use and use of quality photography to illustrate professional techniques. This fourth edition seeks to further enhance the content included in prior editions.

THE STORY BEHIND THIS UPDATEMuch of the feedback received since On Baking was first published indicates that stu-dents and instructors appreciate a text with clear, thorough explanations of fundamental techniques used in professional bakeries. Users also look for an assortment of formulas for making classic pastries and items served at modern bakery cafés as well as dishes that reflect an interest in plant-based cooking and wider cultural influences. We have edited this text to improve readability for today’s student and to align procedures, formulas and photos more closely. New and revised formulas speak to current trends. New photo-graphs clearly illustrate baking procedures and techniques. Because pastry and baking programs vary in content and depth, we incorporated material appropriate for a range of skill levels and interests. Expanded coverage of advanced yeast bread, confectionary and pastry work addresses the needs of a variety of pastry and baking programs.

A NOTE ON RECIPES AND FORMULASThe featured formulas, as recipes are called in the bakeshop, are designed to reinforce and demonstrate techniques presented within each chapter. Many of these formulas intentionally produce smaller yields, which are more appropriate for students beginning to learn about baking and for small schools and teaching kitchens. Professional bake-shops prefer to measure ingredients by weight, so volume measurements are used only when the quantity of an ingredient is difficult to weigh without specialized equipment: less than ½ ounce (30 grams) of salt, leavening or spices, for example. All ingredients are listed in both U.S. and metric measurements with the metric equivalents rounded to even, easily measured units when possible.

Preface

xxvi


It is important to understand that the U.S. and metric quantities of ingredients are actually separate formulas; do not measure some ingredients in the metric amounts and other ingredients in the U.S. amounts, or the ratios will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved. We provide yields in either total batch weight or total yield and offer suggested portion sizes where appropriate.

Baker’s percentages are included with many formulas, especially those for breads and flour-based products. Widely used in the professional bakeshop, baker’s percentages are very useful for increasing or decreasing yields as needed.

We present detailed procedures for standard techniques, then generally do not repeat them in each formula (for example, “apply egg wash” or “divide the dough”). A mise en place feature is included with formulas that appear in the front section of formula chap-ters. Ingredients that require preparation before beginning to assemble the formula are listed in the margin. Consult this brief checklist after you read the formula but before you begin to bake. No matter how detailed the written formula, however, we must assume that you possess certain knowledge, skills and judgment.

Variations appear at the end of selected formulas. These variations enable you to see how a set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different dishes or new flavors with only minor modifications. Variations also provide the advanced baker or pastry chef the opportunity to customize formulas for different applications. Headnotes that describe the cultural or historical background of a bread or pastry or the unique tech-niques used in its preparation appear with many of the formulas. This short text should enhance your understanding of a baking style or technique.

Baking instructions are based on the use of a conventional oven. If a convection oven is used instead, you may need to reduce the temperatures by 25–50°F (15–30°C) from those recommended in the recipes. Watch the baking time as well because convection ovens can cook as much as 20 percent faster than conventional ovens.

A registered dietitian analyzed each formula using nutritional analysis software that incorporates data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, research laboratories and food manufacturers. The nutrient information provided here should be used only as a refer-ence, however. A margin of error of approximately 20 percent can be expected because of natural variations in ingredients. Preparation techniques and serving sizes may also significantly alter the values of many nutrients. In the nutritional analysis for a formula that offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient is the one used unless stated otherwise. Ingredients listed as “as needed” are omitted from the analysis. Corn oil, whole milk, unsalted butter and table salt are used throughout for “vegetable oil,” “milk,” “butter” and “salt,” respectively. In cases of a range of ingredient quantities or numbers of servings, the average was used.

Throughout this text the Good Choice symbol highlights formulas that are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; if appropriate, these formulas may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium. Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan formulas found in Chapter 18, Healthy Baking and Special Diets, are indicated with the symbols shown here.

Good Choice

Vegetarian

Bakeshop products are often challenging to produce from start to finish in a single two- to three-hour class session. Formulas that can be produced in a limited amount of time are printed in blue in the master formula list on pages xx through xxv. If a dough, pastry or frozen component must rest or chill overnight before it can be used, that formula

P R E F A C E xxvii

Gluten FreeGFH E A L T H Y B A K I N G A N D S P E C I A L D I E T S 625

AQUAFABA ITALIAN MERINGUE (VEGAN)

This Italian meringue is made with aquafaba, the syrupy liquid in which beans have been cooked. Like Ital-ian meringue prepared with egg whites, this vegan version can be piped into decorative designs on the top of cakes, pies and tarts.

Y I E L D 1 lb. 4 oz. (600 g)

Aquafaba 6 fl. oz. 180 mlGranulated sugar 12 oz. 360 gWater 4 fl. oz. 120 ml

1 Place the aquafaba in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Whip on low speed.

2 Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan. Attach a candy thermometer and bring the mixture to a boil. As the temperature of the boiling sugar syrup approaches 230°F (110°C), increase the mixer speed to medium.

3 When the aquafaba meringue is holding firm peaks and the syrup reaches 250°F (121°C), increase the mixer speed to high. Pour the syrup into the meringue in a steady stream between the side of the bowl and the whip.

4 Continue whipping until the meringue is cool enough to handle and/or until firm peaks have formed. Use immediately in any formula that requires Italian meringue.

Approximate values per 1 oz. (30-g) serving: Calories 70, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total carbohydrates 17 g

GF Gluten Free Vegan

Vegetarian

aquafaba the thick liquid produced by cooking legumes, especially chickpeas, in water or the liquid drained from canned chickpeas; used to replace egg whites in some preparations

Aquafaba Italian Meringue Aquafaba Italian Meringue piped into decorative shapes, then browned with a hand held propane torch.



will not be highlighted even if the final preparation can be made quickly. Should compo-nents such as tart dough or puff pastry be readily available, more of the formulas in this text may be prepared in a two- to three-hour class. As in restaurant and bakery settings, however, many breads and pastries will need to be made in stages. For example, puff pastry can be produced one day, then refrigerated for baking and assembly on a later day. This reinforces the component approach to pastry preparation, in which fillings, doughs, toppings, icings and such can be prepared in advance and assembled in various ways to complete desserts and pastries. Similarly, starters for yeast breads, doughs and fillings for Danish pastries and many dessert sauces can be prepared days in advance of final use.

Baking is both an art and a science. It is best learned through hands-on experience combined with study of the principles that underlie each technique. As a student, you should rely on the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although some skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no book can substitute for repeated, hands-on preparation and observations. We hope you enjoy On Baking!

xxviii P R E F A C E


Acknowledgments

This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many people. Special thanks go to photographers Richard Embery and Nick de la Torre for their talent, professionalism and commitment to quality; to Eddy Van Damme for his artistry with both recipes and photographs; and to Pierre Edouard Banry for his skills with sugar work and photography. The nutritional analysis was prepared by Mindy Hermann, MBA, RD, whose thoroughness and prompt replies were greatly appreciated. Thanks also go to Stacey Winters Quattrone, Bill Ingram and Anna Moreno for their artistry. We are grateful to the many chefs, restaurateurs, writers and culinary professionals who provided formulas and essays for this text. We extend our special thanks to the baking and pastry profession-als who took time out of their busy schedules to contribute to this edition. Among them: Will Goldfarb, En-Ming Hsu, Miranda Loveless, Emily Luchetti, Alex Miles, Craig Nielsen, Morgan Winkelmann and Tina Powers, CEC CEPC CMB.

Sarah offers her sincere thanks and appreciation to her co-authors for adding their expertise, insight and artistry to this edition. Many thanks go to Eddy for both his con-temporary, accessible formulas and his professionalism behind the camera lens. Sarah is especially grateful to Priscilla for her friendship as well as her many contributions to this project, including her ability to organize and synthesize mountains of information and express a clear vision for the text.

Eddy would like to thank his parents for gently guiding him into the amazing field of baking, Patricia for being the best sister anyone could ask for and Kyle for being the greatest. He would like to sincerely thank Chancellor Cesar Maldonado, PHD, PE, PMP; President Muddassir Siddiqi, EdD, PMP, CPLP; and Dean Suzette Brimmer for their relent-less support, dedication and vision of excellence for the Pastry Arts, Culinary Arts and other programs at Houston Community College. Eddy feels honored to be part of the college and thanks the entire H.C.C. family and truly talented team of culinary and pastry professors. He also would like to thank Hyuna Lee, Quynh Luu Ha and the Imperial Sugar Company for their friendship and generous support to the H.C.C. Pastry Arts Pro-gram. Thanks also go to Kimberley O’Quinn with Storyteller Communications for her friendship and pushing his creativity. Eddy is immensely thankful and thrilled to be working with Priscilla and Sarah.

Priscilla would like to recognize the personal and professional support of Victor Frumolt, Harbinder Mann, Jacques Pépin, Carole Pierce, J. Patrick Truhn, Sylvia Barnes and James Trimble with this project. She would also like to thank Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director ICE; Miriam Madrigal, Marketing Manager, Callebaut; Warren Patterson, General Mills; Sara Saltiel, Marketing Coordinator, NSF International; Bill Weekley, CMB, General Mills; and William “Bill” Yosses, former White House Executive Pastry Chef, for their professional help with this project. She wishes to thank her co-authors and friends, Sarah and Eddy. Without Sarah’s keen eye for details and Eddy’s vast knowledge and artistry, On Baking wouldn’t be possible. And thanks go to Charlie van Over for always keeping the wood oven stoked.

The authors wish to thank Houston Community College, Houston, TX, for the use of its kitchens.

Finally we wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Pearson Education, includ-ing Pamela Chirls, former Portfolio Manager for Culinary; Jenifer Niles, Manager Content HE, Careers & Professional; Rinki Kaur, Content Producer; Rachele Strober, Product Mar-keting Coordinator; Tara Warrens, Senior Content Analyst Trades, Culinary, & Hospitality; Erin Mulligan, Developmental Editor; John Christiana for his award-winning design skills and patience during our color selections; and Kelly Ricci and her team at Aptara.

We also remain indebted to Robin Baliszewski, Acquisitions Editor of the first edition of On Cooking and current Managing Director for Higher Education Sales at Pearson, for her support and friendship.

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xxx A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

We would like to offer our sincere thanks to the following chefs and instructors who took the time to provide their detailed feedback on the content in our text book over the four editions.

Leslie Bartosh CEC, FMP Alvin Community CollegeDorothy Chen-Maynard, California State University

San BernardinoElizabeth Dickson, Bossier Parish Community CollegeDebbie Foster, Ball State UniversityWendy Gordon, Rockland Community CollegeJeff Hamblin, Brigham Young University–IdahoRobert Hansen, Bob Jones UniversityJames Haynes, Glendale Community College

Dorothy Johnston, SUNY-ErieCynthia Kruth, Naugatuck Valley Community CollegeJoseph LaVilla, College of Marin Marilyn Lowers, Cape Fear Community CollegeAllan Okuda, Hawai’i Community CollegeVirginia Olson CWPC, CHE, Anne Arundel Community CollegeAnthony Pisacano, Ogeechee Technical CollegeCindy Schwanke, College of the CanyonsArmando Trujillo, Pima Community College


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