NGHIÊN CỨU MÀU TỰ NHIÊN CHO SON MÔI

7/24/2019 NGHIN CU MU T NHIN CHO SON MI

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BCNG THNG

TRNG I HC CNG NGHIP THC PHM TPHCM

MN CC PHNG PHP TIP CN

NGHIN CU KHOA HC

NHM KHOA CNG NGHHA HC

TI

NGHIN CU MU TNHIN CHO SON MI

GVHD: HONG VN HU

Tp.HCM, nm 2015


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BCNG THNG

TRNG I HC CNG NGHIP THC PHM TPHCM

MN CC PHNG PHP TIP CN

NGHIN CU KHOA HC

NHM KHOA CNG NGHHA HC

TINGHIN CU MU TNHIN CHO SON MI

Chc v Hv tn nh giNhm trng Nguyn Hong Linh - Hon thnh 90%Thnh vin 1 Nguyn Tr Thng - Hon thnh 90%Thnh vin 2 Nguyn ThNgc Dung - Hon thnh 90%Thnh vin 3 V Tn Ti - Hon thnh 90%

Tp.HCM, nm 2015


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MC LCDANH MC HNH NH ............................................................................................... i

DANH MC BNG BIU ............................................................................................ ii

PHN MU ............................................................................................................ 11. L do chn ti .................................................................................................. 1

2. Mc tiu nghin cu ............................................................................................. 2

3. i tng nghin cu ........................................................................................... 2

4. Phng php nghin cu ...................................................................................... 2

CHNG I: LCH SHNH THNH SON MI ....................................................... 3

1.1. Lch sxut x.................................................................................................. 3

1.2. n ng thi no cng dng son mi?............................................................. 31.3. Son mi tthi phc hng n nay .................................................................. 4

1.4. Mt sloi son mi: ......................................................................................... 5

CHNG II. C IM MI DNG CHO SON MI ............................................. 7

2.1. Sinh l mi ........................................................................................................ 7

2.2. Mt svn lin quan n mi. ..................................................................... 7

2.2.1. Sbt mu ca mi. ................................................................................... 7

2.2.2. Gim cho mi .......................................................................................... 82.3. Mphm chm sc mi .................................................................................... 8

2.3.1. Yu cu ca sn phm. ............................................................................... 8

2.3.2. Nguyn liu ................................................................................................ 8

2.3.3. Mt scng thc minh ha n gin ....................................................... 15

CHNG III. PHNG PHP TCH MU........................................................... 17

3.1. Nghin cu tch cht mu tnguyn liu thc vt......................................... 17

3.2. Mt skinh nghim dn gian trong tch mu tnhin. ................................. 183.3. Nghin cu tch chit mu tthc vt sdng trong son mi. ................ 18

3.3.1. La chn cc hdung mi cho k thut tch chit. .................................. 18

3.3.2. Nghin cu k thut tch chit mu tnhin. .......................................... 18

K THUT TCH CHIT: ................................................................................... 18

3.3.3. Phng php chit lnh: ........................................................................... 19

3.3.4. Phng php chit nng ........................................................................... 20

3.3.5. Kho st nh hng ca nhit chit ti hm lng cht mu ............. 213.3.6. Kho st nh hng ca thi gian chit ti hm lng cht mu : .......... 21


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3.4. QUY TRNH SN XUT SON MI TMU TNHIN ....................... 23

3.4.1. Nguyn liu c bn. ................................................................................. 23

3.4.2. QUY TRNH CHUNG SN XUT SON MI ...................................... 24

3.4.3. Quy trnh lm son : ................................................................................... 253.4.4. Mt syu cu ca sn phm: ................................................................. 25

KT LUN .................................................................................................................. 26

PHLC 1: TCVN 6417:2010 ................................................................................... 27

TI LIU THAM KHO ............................................................................................ 32


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NGHIN CU MU TNHIN CHO SON MI i

DANH MC HNH NH

Hnh 1: Son mi vi bmi th mng ........................................................................... 1

Hnh 2: Ngi thi trung c ........................................................................................... 3

Hnh 3: n ng cng dng son mi. ............................................................................. 4

Hnh 4: Logo cho hi chthgii World Fair ............................................................... 5

Hnh 5: Son mi dng m ............................................................................................ 5

Hnh 6: Cy thu du .................................................................................................... 10

Hnh 7: Ht cy thu du .............................................................................................. 10

Hnh 8: Cu to siu hin vi ca TiO2 .......................................................................... 12

Hnh 9: Propyl galat ...................................................................................................... 14

Hnh 10: BHA ............................................................................................................... 15

Hnh 11: BHT ............................................................................................................... 15

Hnh 12: Sp ong .......................................................................................................... 23

Hnh 13: S quy trnh sn xut son mi .................................................................. 24

Hnh 14: Thi son mu en .......................................................................................... 25


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NGHIN CU MU TNHIN CHO SON MI ii

DANH MC BNG BIU

Bng 1: So snh c tnh sinh l ca mi vi da ............................................................ 7

Bng 2: Tl% cc cht c trong son thng dng silicon. ........................................ 15

Bng 3: Tl% cc cht c trong son thng dng ancol. .......................................... 16

Bng 4: Cng thc son m........................................................................................... 16

Bng 5: Cng thc son bng ........................................................................................ 16

Bng 6: Cc loi thc vt cha mu ............................................................................. 17

Bng 7: Cng thc c bn cho son mi. ....................................................................... 23


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NGHIN CU MU TNHIN CHO SON MI 1

PHN MU1. L do chn ti

Mt bmi quyn ry mu sc l mt v kh sc bn ca phi p chinh phc phi mnh, v cng l nim m c ca nhng c gi thi hin i,nhng c nhiu cu hi t ra:

- Sdng son thno l ng cch?- Liu rng sdng son mi ngy th c nh hng g n mi v sc khe

hay khng? bi thnh phn chnh trong son mi l mu ha hc v cc hpcht khc, chua ni n thnh phn ch c trong son mi gy nh hngn sc khe?

- Gi thnh ca son c ph hp kinh thay khng? cng l ni au uca chem phn, bi lnu mua son rth khng bit c cht lng hay

khng, cn nu mua son t th kinh tkhng cho php- Liu rng c mt loi son no m khng sdng ha cht m hon ton

lm tthin nhin hay khng? V gi thnh th ph hp vi mi chemphnhay khng?

Hnh 1: Son mi vi bmi th mng.

trli nhng cu trn cc nha khoa hc hay cc nh chuyn mn cngang tm ti ra nhng cng nghlm son mi mi , son mi lm ttnhin cngha l son lm tmu ca rau cqutrong thin nhin, ni khng vi ch, phhp vi sc khe con ngi,v cng t thnh qurt ng k, nhng cng cnhiu thch thc ln, v cng nghtch chit mu trau qul rt phc tp,mu skhng bn, sn phm lm ra c gi thnh rt l cao, v nhng cng ngh hu ht chc nhp tnc ngoi. V thtrong xu thhin nay nhm cngmun ng gp mt phn nhnghin cu son mi ttnhin, nhng gi mmcho mi ngi phnu Vit Nam u c lm p m khng lo vgi

hay sc khe.


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iu ng mong i nghin cu ny l nu thnh cng sgii quyt cnhng vn vlm p m cong nghc khng lm c, l mt bc tinmi cho cng nghVit Nam ni ring v cthgii ni chung.

cng chnh l l do m nhm cng nghha hc chn ti m nhm

ha hc chn son mi lm ti khoa hc ca mnh2. Mc tiu nghin cu

Tch chit c mu tcc loi rau ctnhin, bng phng php phi hahc.

ng dng mu tnhin vo qu trnh sn xut son mi

Ti u ha qui trnh, gim chi ph sn xut3.

i tng nghin cuMu son c tch ra tcc loi rau ctnhin:

Mu v hng : dng phc bn thoc cdn

Mu vng: tcnghhoc nhhoa nghty Mu da cam: tc rt

Mu xanh l cy: trau chn vt, tr xanh, l da

Mu tm: l cm, bp ci tm, vit quc

Mu nu: bt ca cao, bt qu, bt c ph4. Phng php nghin cu

Dng phng php tch chit thcng vvt l kt hp sdng mt shacht tch c mu tcc loi rau c.

Sn xut son mi tmu c to ra, a ra phng php ti u nht.Kim tra li tnh an ton ca son va to ra, xc nh hm lng kim loi

nng(Pb, Cr,..) c trong son c vt mc cho php khng.


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CHNG I: LCH SHNH THNH SON MI1.1.

Lch sxut xNh cp ttrc th son mi c pht minh cch y 4000 nm. Ti

thi im son mi mu en c sdng rt phbin. V dNefertiti thch

dng son mi c lm bng vx cnhuyn th trong khi Cleopatra lachn mu son lm bng t son . Nhng tic rng son mi c gn lin vic cht. Gn nh ngay sau cc biu hin ca 'nhn ca ci cht' thc si vo sdng. Thi Trung Cc thc nh du l thi im kh khn chonhng ngi yu thch son mi. Bi y l thi gian n bcm bi Gio hi. Hcho rng nhng ngi t son l do ph thy sai khin v sbnm xung angc vo Ngy phn xt cui cng (Day of Last Judgment). Phnchc chn rt shi v do tt cmi ngi u lng qun son mi cho n thi kPhc Hng.

Hnh 2: Ngi thi trung c.

1.2. n ng thi no cngdng son mi?Thi k Phc Hng cng t du mc quan trng khi thi gian ny son mi

c sdng khng chbi phnm ccnh nam gii. Ti ta n ca LudwigXVI (Php) n ng sdng son to ng vin mi nhm thu ht sch nhiu hn so vi bria mp v ru.


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Hnh 3: n ng cng dng son mi.

1.3. Son mi tthi phc hng n nayVo u thk20, son mi xut hin trli, l vo nm 1903. Ti Hi

chthgii - World Fair - thi son u tin xut hin trthnh mt 'qubom'gy chn ng mnh mtrong d lun. Phnbm hoc vi nhng pht minh

mi nht lm p. Sau vo nm 1915, thng hiu m phm th giiGuerlain trnh lng mt thi son mi c thc hin di hnh thc dngthanh v trthnh sn phm lm p ni ting nht. Trong thp nin 1920 nhngthi son dng c c c sdng rng ri bi nhng nhn vt ni ting nhMarlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo v Joan Crawford. Ngy nay, thi son trthnh mt thmphm lm p khng ththiu ca mi ngi phn. V p ng c sthch a dng ca phi p, son mi ngy nay c sn xutvi rt nhiu mu sc v mi v.


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Hnh 4: Logo cho hi chthgii World Fair

1.4. Mt sloi son mi:- Son mi dng m.- Son chng n- Son mu- Son bng- Son nh...Son mi ngy nay c rt nhiu hnh dng, mu sc v mi v.

Hnh 5: Son mi dng m.


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1.5. Mt sthng tin th vvson mi: Cc nh khoa hc Php c tnh, mt ngi n ng n nut khong 2,7kg

son mi trong ccuc i v trong khi ngi phnl 7,7kg. Hu ht cc loi son mi u c vy c l thnh phn to nn.

C thon c tnh cch ca mt ngi phnkhi chcn nhn vomu son: Son mi mu l sla chn ca nhng ngi phnvui v.Son mi mu hng l dnh cho nhng ngi phnlng mn. Son mimu cam ti sng dnh cho nhng ngi phn lp d, nhng ngithch gy sch Son mi


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CHNG II. C IM MI DNG CHO SON MI2.1.

Sinh l mic tnh sinh l mi so vi da.

Bng 1: So snh c tnh sinh l ca mi vi da

Phn loi Da Mi

Tuyn nhn C Khng

Lp sng Dy Rt mng

Thnh phn gim tnhin NMFNhiu

0,76 1,2 /7 mol mg

t/0,12mol mg

Tc bay hi ncChm

2/11 19g mm hr

Nhanh2

78 /g mm hr

Lng H2O Nhiu30 39s t16 25s

So vi da, khnng gim ca mi km hn v rt dbkh, nt n, lmny sinh ra nhiu vn i vi vic gim cho mi khi sdng sn phmchm sc mi. Thc ra, khng phi mi khng c tuyn lng v tuyn nhn,nhng c t v su trong mi, cng thm lp sng mng c nhng phn xpmm nh ln khng lin tc to cho mi nhng c tnh: lng nc trn mithp, mi khng lng, khng du,mu hng khc da v c ln sc quanh mi.

2.2.Mt svn lin quan n mi.

2.2.1. Sbt mu ca mi.

Cu to ca mi tng tda, nhng khng c lng v tuyn nhn, do

khnng bt mu ca mi rt khc bit so vi da. Dr. o. J. Jacobi tin

hnh nghin cu sbt mu v xm nhp thc ca son i vi mi, khi kim

tra mi v cc on c bi mt lp son, sau 30 pht chi lp son ny

i, ng nhn thy bng mt thng c mt lp mng mng lin tc trn mi,nhng khi quknh phng i n chl nhng dy khng lin tc trn mi,

chphn nh ln ca mi c t v sau khi c lau i, th son li ivo

phn lm ca mi v c gili .Ngha l khi bi son, chc phn

xp mm nh ln ca mi l bt mu, phn lm ca mi t bt mu. Nh vy,

chmt na lp sng c ngm mu v mt na lp sng cn li t ngm

mu hn, lp biu b khng nh hng g v sdng ca son nu c sinh

ra cho mi rt t.


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2.2.2. Gim cho mi

Nh chng ta bit, son mi trc y l hn hp sp, khi sdng ta

thoa lp sp ny to mt mng mng trn mi, nhng lp sp ny khng hon

ton phht mi nn nc vn cthot nhiu qua mi. T nhng sn phmson mi mi thay i kt cu, a cht gim vo son, kt hp vi vic s

dng csn thay v dng thi son kthng ln mi.

Cho n nay, cc dng sn phm chnh cho da vn l phn, kem cc

loi, cc dng sn phm chnh cho mi l son mi.

2.3. Mphm chm sc mi

2.3.1. Yu cu ca sn phm.

Khi sdng: Lp phim ca son phi bm vo mi trong vi giv khng bbm

ddng vo tch ly hoc trn iu thuc l... Thi son phi to c nhng ng nt r trn mi v khng b

nhe khi k. Thi son phi do khng bgy khi sdng. Mi vph hp vi ngi sdng. Khng dc. t tiu chun chung theo quy nh dnh cho sn phm.

Khi tn tr: n nh trong mt .thi gian di nhiu iu kin kh hu khc

nhau.

Khng bhin tng to hoa trn bmt thi son

Khng bhin tng mhi trn bmt thi son.

2.3.2. Nguyn liua. Nguyn liu cho nn sn phm

Nn son l hn hp ca cht du, cht bo, sp ca cng vt, thc

vt, khong cht v tng hp.

Sp ongsdng nh sp nh dng, dng kt hp vi du thu du

nhng bmt son t bng v thi son dbgy khi sdng, do d phi b

sung nhng sp nng khc nhm lm tng tnh mm do v linh ng cho

thi son v gim vt nt.

Carnauba waxl sp cng c im nng chy (mp) cao, dng vi mt

tlnhlm thi son chc hn v to mt lp mng knc, tng

bng cho bmt thi son.Ozokeritl mt loi sp do, dun, c dng nh mt loi sp c


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bn trong cng thc son mi do c c im vi tinh thhp thu du tt.

Ceresin waxdc dng phi hp vi ozokerit to im nng chy

thp hn, lm cng son m khng gy hin tng son qu dn hay qu

cng.Sp vi tinh thc sdng do c khong nng chy rng v c tnh

hp ph(duy tr) du rt tt.

Candelilla waxl mt loi sp n ha hn carnauba do c nhit

nng chy thp hn v t cng hn, c sdng lm chc son nhng

vi lng nhiu hn carnauba wax.

Parafin waxkhng c sdng rng ri trong son v khng trn ln

vi du v cu trc thiu chc. Tuy nhin, khi sdng vi lng nh, n

sgp phn lm tng bng cho bmt thi son.

Spermacetic dng vi mt lng nhgip tng bng bmt

thi son v lm mm son nhit c th. Khi sdng phi rt cn trng

v n khng tng hp vi nhng loi este khc.

Anhydrous lanolin c tc dng gip mi chu c thi tit khc

nghit, gicho da mi mm, khng bkh, khng bnt nv lm mi

sng ln. Ngoi ra, anhydrous lanolin v dn xut ca n dng phn

tn mu trong son. Khi dng nhiu lanolin lm tng tnh dnh ca snphm, gy kh chu cho ngi tiu dng.

b. Nhng loi sp khc:

Mt sloi sp c dng vi mt lng rt nhlm son dsdng

hn nh:

-Wool - wax ancohol lm son mm v do

-Cocoa butter tc dng hn chgy ha.

-

Hydrogenated castor oil gip son bn, chng oxy ha.-Acetoglyceride c tc dng hn chsthay i cu trc

-Cetylacol gip gim bt tnh phn lp.

Du:Bn cnh sp, mt sdu cng c a vo thnh phn nn ca

son:

Du thu du l thnh phn du chyu trong son do c tnh

deo cao, ngn cn c slng ca phm mu trong thi son,

gip mu an u trn mi v l cht trung gian tt cho qu trnhnghin.


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Hnh 6: Cy thu du Hn chchnh ca du thu du l mi bo, to mi kh lu tr

v khng lm t phm mu nhanh chng (tnh nht cao). Trn

thc t, ngi ta c thhn chcc tnh cht ny bng cch s

dng hng che ph hp v dng cht chng oxy ha.

Hnh 7: Ht cy thu du

Mt scht khc c sdng ci thin tnh cht cua son nh:

Isopropyl myristat c tc dng lm son khng c mi mv

thm tt hn.

Oleyl alcol gip son t nht hn.

Butyl stearat gip thi son n hi, tuy nhin t sdng do c


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mi hc.

Isopropylpalmitat (stearat) c tc dng lm cho son t mi bo

hn, to tnh n nh tt cho sn phm.

Dimethylsebacat: tc nhn lin kt tt cho du khong, du thcvt v l dung mi tt cho phm (bromo acid).

Oleyl oleat: lm mm, gim tt, hp phtt trn mi, s

dng hn chdo hi bo.

Du khong tng bng ca son, hn chl dgy bn

nu dng lng ln.

Petroleum jelly tng bng v ddng khi sdng.

c.

MuYu cu: Mu trong soil gimt vai tr quan trng trong phi ch

son. Cc loi mu sdng ch son cn tun thmt syu cu

sau:

Rt t hoc khng phai mu di nh nng mt tri.

n nh khi tng nhit .

To phtt (O < 20pm)

Khng bt m (gy xung khc vi thbo trong son). Khng ha tan trong du trnh schuyn mu ttc

khi son.

Khng ha tan trong nc dtrnh snhe mu kh coi

quanh ming do schy mu.

Khng gy bt cmt phn ng no gia cc thnh phn

trong son.

Lng phm hn hp sdng trong khong 13%.Nguyn liu mu

Mu son khng c nh m thay i theo tng thi im,

nhng mu chnh vn l mu . Gam mu sdng cho son bao

gm tt cmu tcam n ta, mt s loi c mu nu,

tm... Mt vi loi son khng cn mu nh son mv son bng

(hoc mu rt nht). Mu trong son thng dng hn hp:

pigment + thuc nhum. Mt shn hp mu c sdng trongson nh: staning dyes (bromoacids) 0,5 3%; oil soluble pigment


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2%; pigment khng tan 8 10%; TiO21 4%.

Staningyes c sdng rng ri l eosin v cc dn xut

halogen fluorescein:

Eosin (D & C red N21) l mt cht mu cam khng tan,chuyn sang dng mui cho mu chi pH >4.

Halogented fluorescein c nhiu mu khc nhau v thng

c dng chung vi eosin. Tetracloro tetrabromo

fluorescein (D & C red N27) cho mu chi;

dibromofluorescein (D & C orange N5) cho mu cam.

Hn chchung ca bromoacid l kh phn tn trong son gy

kch thch da, c thdn n dng. sdng c ccphm staning dyes trong son, cn phi loi sulfoacid ra khi

cng thc tng tnh khng tan trong nc.

Pigment

TiO2 thng s dng vi hm lng trn 4%. TiO2 l

pigment trng hu hiu to lp mng trn mi.

Hnh 8: Cu to siu hin vi ca TiO2

Cc loi mu thng c sdng trong son mi: D & C red

N8.7.31 & 34; D & C red N9; D & C orange W 17; D & C

red NOS 2.3 & 19; FD & C yellow NOS - 5 & 6.

d. Dung mi.

Thc ra trong cng thc ca son khng cn dung mi, nhng nukhng dng dung mi sgy ra mt sscnh ty mi, gy rt,


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dn cc, khng tri u trn mi du sdng k thut phi ch

hon ho.

Mt syu cu trn dung mi sdng cho son

t bay hi v n nh (bn, khng chy khi nhit tng) trongsut qu trnh sn xut hoc lu tr. Phi tng hp vi tt ccc thnh phn ca son. t tan trong nc. C tc dng gip cho schuyn dch son ln mi ddng. Khng mu, khng v, khng c, khng kch thch mi.Mt sdung mi thng dng. Glycol este: propyllen glycol monoeste (nh laurat, myristat,

monoricinoleat...) l nhng dung mi tt cho son v tc nhnlin kt ghp cc hp cht du v gip chuyn son mi vo daddng. Mt khc, n cngt gy hin tng chy hn ccglycol n gin.

Tetrahydrofurfural alcol v este ca n:Cc alcol ny c khnng ha tan eosin rt ln (khong 28%). Cc ester ca acid ctrng lng phn tthp cng ha tan eosin, nhng dbc hi,ngc li ester ca acid c trng lng phn tcao nh acidstearic c khnng ha tan eosin thp (0 5% eosin).

Dung mi phmnh alkylolamid, c mi rt nh, t bay hi,khng ht m, c sdng nh mt thnh phn sp c bn, vc khnng gip trn ln cc thnh phn khc trong son (dukhong v du thc vt), ng thi ha tan dc phm. Tuynhin do tnh tan phm vo dung mi phthuc vo chui acid

bo v shin din ca lin kt amid nn rt cn thn khi dng. Polyethylenglycolether: Ty thnh phn du, sp, mu trong

son sdng hn hp dung mi vi thnh phn v lng thchhp. Lauryl alcol cng l dung mi tt cho eosin nhng khngmang li hiu qucao (do tnh ht m).

e.Hngchn cho son phi t mt syu cu chung sau: Phi du c mi bo ca cht nn

Hng phi bn v thch hp vi cc thnh phn trong son.

Hm lng hng sdng trong son kh cao: 2 4%. Cc loi hng thng dng trong son:

Ru v este ca hoa hng.

Hng tri cy: chanh, cam, qut, du... nhng khng

thng dng.


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f. Cht chng oxy ha v cht bo qun.Trong thnh phn ca son phi c cc cht bo qun do:

Cc loi sp, du, mboxy ha di tc dng ca nhit ,

nh sng, oxy trong khng kh gy hin tng i ha, lm mt

mi hng, lm phai mu... Ion kim loi Cu, Fe... tngun mu, ngun nguyn liu, thng

cha, thit bsn xut b.oxy ha to mu. Nhim nm mc v vi khun.

hn chsoxy ha, nhim nm mc v vi khun, ngi ta hnch vic s dng cht bo c nhiu lin kt di. Trnh chadu, m, sp trong thng bng Fe, Cu hay cc kim li khc v nhng ni c m cao.

Cc cht chng oxy ha v cht bo qn thng s dngtrong son mi:

Cc este ca acid galic:

Propyl galat l cht bt mu trng, c im nng chy tihn 150C, dc sdng rng ri nht v c hiu qungay nng thp (c bit trong du thc vt) v phn hy nhitca. Khi gp cc cht n knc, ngi ta dng cht bo

qun octyl hoc dodecyl galat

Hnh 9: Propyl galatButylat hydroxyanisol (BHA) l cht rn sp bn mu trng,

im nng chy ti hn 60c, dha tan trong du v cht bo,hiu qunng thp v c bit hu dng trong mngvt.


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Hnh 10: BHA

Hydroxytoluen (BHT): Tinh thtrng, im nng chy tihn 70c, c mi rt nh, dha tan trong du v cc cht bo.

Hnh 11: BHT

2.3.3.

Mt scng thc minh ha n gin

Vic thit lp mt cng thc son mi khng n gin, rt kh c

thpht hin ngay nhng thiu st ca thi son do c khi n chxut

hin sau mt thi gian di bo qun. Khi hon thnh s b, cn lu

kim tra cc yu tsau:

Khnng to cc git du trn bmt thi sn.

To bt phn.

Gy, v

Mt nc bng.

Thng thng c hai loi son: son thng chyu lm p v

gim cho mi; son m- son bng c dng chyu bo v

mi trnh nhit v thi tit thay i bt thng.

a.

Son thngCng thc 1 [c thsdng Silicon]: son thng loi rn

Bng 2: Tl% cc cht c trong son thng dng silicon.

Nguyn liu % Nguyn liu %

Castor oil 30 Carpauba wax 10Mineral oil 15 Ceresin wax 10Beeswax 15 Union Carbide L. 45 silicon Fluid 10

Parafin 10 Hng t.h


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Cng thc 2: dng to son dng lng. Loi son ny c c imci tin hn lai rn, v n cho lp mng mng trn mi bn hn, vto cho mi c cm gic bng mng hn. Tuy nhin, do khng tindng v gy kh chu mi nn t phbin hn Son thng dng rn.

Thnh phn chyu gm dung dch alcol, xc mu tan trong alcol, dungmi ethyl alcol, cht to nht, to mng etylcellulose, polyvinyl alcol,

polyvinyl acetat cht to do triethyl nitrat, methyl abietat, poly etylenglycol. Hng c ha tan trc trong alcol trc khi trn.

Bng 3: Tl% cc cht c trong son thng dng ancol.

b. Son m- son bng.

Bng 4: Cng thc son m

Bng 5: Cng thc son bng


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CHNG III. PHNG PHP TCH MU

3.1. Nghin cu tch cht mu tnguyn liu thc vt.

c thsdng nguyn liu cho cng nghtch chit mu, cc loi cn t

cc tiu ch sau:

- Hm lng mu trong nguyn liu ln p ng k thut chit.- Cht mu bn vng trong qu trnh tch chit.- Mu thu hi p ng nhu cu lm son.

Ngoi cc tiu ch trn, vic la chn cc loi dng tch chit trong vicsn xut son mi cn phi tha mn cc iu kin sau:

- Cc loi cy, quc khnngcung cp ngun nguyn liu n nh, vi slng ln, dtm kim ti Vit Nam.

-

Cht mu thuc nhm a nc.( trnh cc cht mu phi dng dung mi ttin nhm ct gim ti chnh).

Tkt quphn tch, ta c thsdng mt sloi cy, qusau tchchit nhm sn xut son mi. Tr chi i qua ngi

Bng 6: Cc loi thc vt cha mu

Trn y l mt sloi cy, quc khnng tch mu sdng trong sonmi.


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3.2.Mt skinh nghim dn gian trong tch mu tnhin.

tch mu khi nguyn liu, hin nay ngi ta chyu sdng phngphp chit bng dung mi nc. vi k thut ny c thchia lm hai nhm chnh:

- Chit bng dung dch nc nng: thng sdng vi cc loi nguyn lium cht mu dng lin kt chhin mu sau khi un, hoc cht mu khng

b bin i nhit cao. Phng thc ph bin c s dng l unnguyn liu trong nc ti si trong khong thi gian nht nh.

- Phng php chit lnh: nguyn liu c gi nt trong nc lnh, sau lc thu dch chit c chit c cht mu. Tuy nhin, phng php ny,mt sloi nguyn liu cha cht mu dbbin i nhit cao nhmu hng trong hoa sim, mu tm trong tri mng ti

3.3. Nghin cu tch chit mu tthc vt sdng trong son mi.3.3.1. La chn cc hdung mi cho k thut tch chit.

Cc hdung mi c nghin cu bao gm: cn ( Ethanol 90 %), n-hexan, nc nng.

Dung mi c la chn cho tch chit mu thc vt l nc nng, ncnng c la chn hng u v mt su im sau: cc nguyn liu cchit bng nc nng ( un si trong 60 pht) v rt kit trong 3 ln lin tipkhng cn cha cht mu ( c kim tra bng hdung mi khc); y l

phng php dthc hin, gi thnh h, khng c hi

3.3.2. Nghin cu k thut tch chit mu tnhin.

La chn mt snguyn liu i din trong qu trnh tch chit sdng trong son mi, ta chn 3 loi thc vt i din cho 3 mu cho tngng: mu tcdn, mu hng tcm, mu cam tc rt.

K THUT TCH CHIT:

BC 1: CHIT CHT MU TH TNGUYN LIU

Nguyn liu c un trong bnh cu vi tl0,5 kg nguyn liu cngvi 2 lt nc, si trong 60 pht. Dng bm chn khng rt ht dch chit,sau cho nguyn liu vo un ln 2 trong 30 pht. Tip tc lp li qu

trnh chit rt cho ti khi dch chit khng cn mu. Trong thc t, sau lnchit th3 nguyn liu hu nh brt kit cht mu. Nu khng sdng

bm chn khng chit mu th c thphi chit ti ln th5.


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BC 2: C C DCH CHIT

Tt cdch chit c gp chung v c cch thy ti dng cao mn,sau sy nhit thp ( 45500C) ti kh. Trong giai on sy kh,khng c sy nhit cao( trn 500C) v cht mu c thbin i. do

cht mu c chit tnguyn liu c chit bng nc nng, chphmthu c ngoi cc cht c mu chyu thuc nhm anthocyanin cn cmt scht hu c khc ( gluxit, protein). Qu trnh sy kh dch chitthng ko di, nhit cao cc cht thuc nhm gluxit dchuyn thnhcaramen lm cho mu ca chphm bti. trnh hin tng ny, mt snc chsn xut cht mu dng dch chit c c.

chphm mu c cht lng tt,cao mn c sy trong thit bhtchn khng nhit thp. sau khi sy, tn nhcht mu thnh bt, nggi hoc tip tc sl nng cao cht lng mu.

BC 3: XL TP CHT TBT MU TH

Cht mu thu c tphng php chit nc thng c tinh khitkhng cao, do c ln mt scht hu c tan trong nc ( gluxit, protein).V vy, nng cao cht lng, sdng hn hp dung mi nc: ethanol (4 : 6) loi btp cht. c c v sy kh dch chit thu hi c ch

phm mu c tinh khit cao hn.

3.3.3. Phng php chit lnh:

Phng php chit lnh chit theo quy trnh chit cht mu anthoxyanin.

a. i vi mu ti:

Ta chn slng mu l 100g, vi cch lm nh sau: ly 100g mu chitsiu m theo s di y, chit 3 ln tng ng vi thtch ln lt l:200ml, 150ml v 100ml vi cc mi trng chit nh sau:

- Mi trng trung tnh: (M1) vi dung mi l EtOH 70 0, pH = 6,5 -7

- Mi trng axit: (M2) vi dung mi l EtOH 70 0, 0,1%

CH3COOH, pH= 5-6b. i vi mu kh:

Ly 20g mu thc hin chit mu bng phng php chit lnh theo s 1,chit 3 ln tng ng vi th tch dung mi ln lt l: 150ml, 100ml v80ml vi cc mi trng chit nh sau:

- Mi trng trung tnh: (M3) vi dung mi l EtOH 70 0, pH = 6,5 -7

- Mi trng axit: (M4) vi dung mi l EtOH 70 0, 0,1%

CH3COOH, pH= 5-6


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S 1: Quy trnh chit cht mu theo phng php lnh:

3.3.4. Phng php chit nng

Chit theo quy trnh dn gian theo cc trong cc mi trng khc nhau:Thc hin chit mu bng phng php chit nng theo s di y vi cc

mi trng chit nh sau:

a. i vi mu ti:

Ly 100g mu ti chit bng phng php nng theo s 2, chit 2 lntng ng theo thtch dung mi ln lt l 200ml v 150ml vi cc mitrng chit nh sau:

-Mi trng trung tnh( M5) : vi dung mi l nc ct, pH =7

-

Mi trng axit ( M6): vi dung mi l nc ct thm 0,1% CH3COOH,pH=5-6

Mu

Dungmi:Sium 15 ph

lnh12h

B 1

Dch

chit 1

Dungmi:Siu m

lnh 12h

Dch

chit 2

B 2

Dchchit 3

lnh12h

Dchchittng

Lc

Dung misiu m 15p

Caophmmu

Phmmukh

Sy ng khQuay ct:

CK; Pthp:


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b. i vi mu kh:

Ly 20g mu thc hin chit mu bng phng php chit nng theo s 2, chit 2 ln tng ng vi thtch dung mi ln lt l: 150ml v 100mlvi cc mi trng chit nh sau:

- Mi trng trung tnh( M7) : vi dung mi l nc ct, pH =7- Mi trng axit ( M8): vi dung mi l nc ct thm 0,1% CH3COOH,

pH=5-6

S 2: Quy trnh chit cht mu theo phng php nng:

3.3.5. Kho st nh hng ca nhit chit ti hm lng cht mu

Tin hnh chit cht mu tmu ti trong nc cc nhit khc nhau:750C- 800C; 850C-900C; 950C-1000C, chit 2 ln, thi gian: 30 pht/ln. Cc mukho st c k hiu l: M11, M12,M13..Qui trnh c thc hin theo s 3

3.3.6. Kho st nh hng ca thi gian chit ti hm lng cht mu :

Tin hnh chit cht mu tmu ti trong nc nhit 85oC-90oC thchin theo qui trnh chit nh s 2 vi thi gian chit tng ng vi cc munh sau:

- M14: chit 3 ln: 60-40-20 pht- M15: chit 2 ln : 40-20 pht- M16: chit 2 ln : 30-10 pht

Kho st nh hng ca dung mi chit ti hm lng cht mu Sau khi chn c phng php chit nng l ph hp thc hin qui trnh chit chtmu tthc vt, la chn nc v cn l hai loi dung mi thng c dngtrong thc phm kho st chn la dung mi thch hp nht cho qui trnhchit

85oC900C

Dchchit 1

B 1

Dch chittng

Dch chitc

Cao phmmu

Phmmu kh

Lc

Dch chit 2

Ccchthy750C

Quay ct CK, P

thp 400C

Dung mi,un 30ph

Mu

Dung mi,

un 30 pht


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Mi trng trung tnh: (M5) vi dung mi l nc ct, pH 7

Mi trng axit: (M6) vi dung mi l (nc ct, 0,1% CH3COOH),pH = 5-6

Mi trng trung tnh: (M9) vi dung mi l EtOH 700 , pH = 6,5-7

Mi trng axit: (M10) vi dung mi l (EtOH 700 , 0,1%CH3COOH), pH = 5-6

Ton bdch phm mu sau khi chit, em c trn bp cch thy, duy trnhit 70-75 0C cho ti cn khong 1/3 thtch. Quay ct chn khng dip sut gim 40 0C thu c cao phm mu. Sau c lm kh trong myng c chn khng. Sn phm thu c l bt mu dht m, bo qun trong lnt nhm y kn.

S 3: Quy trnh chit cht mu tthc vt xc nh nhit ti u khi chit:

100g muti

B 1

Dch chit

Dch chitDch

chit tng

DchCao PMPhm mu

un t0C

Ccch

thy750

C

Quay ctCK

ng c CK


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3.4. QUY TRNH SN XUT SON MI TMU TNHIN3.4.1. Nguyn liu c bn.

Nn son l hn hp ca cht du, cht bo, sp ca cng vt, thc vt,khong cht v hn hp.

Hnh 12: Sp ong

Mt syu cu ca mu trong son mi:

- Rt t hoc khng phai mu di nh nng mt tri.- n nh khi tng nhit .- To phtt.- Khng bt m.

-

Khng ha tan trong du trnh schuyn mu ttckhi son.- Khng ha tan trong nc trnh snhe mu.- Khng gy bt cmt phn ng no i vi cc thnh phn trong son.

Bng 7: Cng thc c bn cho son mi.

Stt Tn nguyn liu Tl1 Du ( du da, olive, hnh nhn) 60-75%2 Sp ( sp ong, sp u nnh) 20-40%3 Mu ( mu khong, mu tnhin) 5-10%

4 Phgia ( hng liu,cht bo qun) < 3%


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3.4.2. QUY TRNH CHUNG SN XUT SON MI

Hnh 13: S quy trnh sn xut son mi


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3.4.3. Quy trnh lm son :

Hnh 14: Thi son mu en.

- B1: Cn o nguyn liu- B2: un cch thy hn hp du, sp cho tan chy ha quyn vo nhau.

-

B3: Cho hng liu v mu, nh tan hn hp mu tan ht ( lu nhit


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KT LUN

Trong tnhin c rt nhiu cht c thtch c mu ty vo loi ha cht v tyvo loi thc vt ta c thtch c nhiu hay t cht mu. Cc loi thc vt trong t

nhin mang mt mm sng ca tnhin m n mang li nhng mu sc nhng loi cthng dng lm son mi nh l gc, chit mu ; sim mu hng; tm en l cm.

T cho thy mu trong tnhin cng gp phn to nn nhng gi trmang lihiu quv kinh tcho con ngi.

Qu trnh lm son mi gm 2 qu trnh qu trnh lnh v qu trnh nng hai qutrnh ny li cun cht mu c trong thc vt ra ngoi.

Vi son mi mang thnh phn tnhin sgip cho phi p c ln mi p v thmng hn na gp phn nng cao cht lng cuc sng.


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PHLC 1: TCVN 6417:2010

TIU CHUN QUC GIA

TCVN 6417:2010

CAC/GL 66-2008

HNG DN SDNG HNG LIU

Guidelines for the use of flavourings

Li ni u

TCVN 6417:2010 thay thTCVN 6417:1998;

TCVN 6417:2010 hon ton tng ng vi CAC/GL 66-2008;

TCVN 6417 : 2010 do Ban kthut tiu chun TCVN/TC/F4 Phgia thc phmv cc cht nhim bn bin son, Tng cc Tiu chun o lng Cht lng ngh, BKhoa hc v Cng nghcng b.

HNG DN SDNG HNG LIU

Guidelines for the use of flavourings

1. Phm vi p dng

Tiu chun ny quy nh cc nguyn tc sdng an ton cc hng liu c y ban chuyn gia hn hp ca T chc Nng Lng Th gii(FAO)/Tchc Y tThgii (WHO) vPhgia thc phm (JECFA) nh giv c xc nh an ton cc lng n vo dkin, hoc lng n vo hngngy chp nhn c (ADI) do JECFA thit lp v cc hng liu ny ccc tiu chun yu cu kthut tng ng vnhn bit v tinh khit1). Ngoira, tiu chun ny cng quy nh cc nguyn tc thc hin m khng gyhiu nhm cho ngi tiu dng.

2. Thut ngv nh ngha

Trong tiu chun ny sdng cc thut ngv nh ngha sau y:

2.1. Hng v(flavour)

Tng hp cc c tnh ca bt kcht no c a vo ming, chyuc cm nhn bng vgic v khu gic v cng c thbng c quan xc gic,c no tip nhn v xl. Scm nhn hng vl mt thuc tnh ca hngliu.

2.2. Hng liu (flavouring)


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Cc sn phm c bsung vo thc phm tc ng, iu chnh haylm tng hng vca thc phm [trcc cht iu vc coi l phgia thc

phm trong CAC/GL 36-1989 Codex Class Names and the InternationalNumbering System for Food Additives (Hthng phn loi tn v nh squc

ti vi phgia thc phm)]. Hng liu khng bao gm cc cht chnthun vngt, chua hay mn (chng hn nh ng, dm hay mui n). Hngliu c thgm cc cht to hng, phc hp to hng tnhin, hng liudng trong chbin nhit hoc hng liu dng khi v hn hp ca chng vc thcha cc thnh phn thc phm khng to hng (2.3) vi cc iu kinnu trong 3.5.

2.2.1. Cht to hng (flavouring substance)

Cc cht c xc nh r vcu trc ha hc c to thnh bng tng

hp ha hc hoc thu c tcc nguyn liu chnh c ngun gc ng vt hocthc vt.

2.2.1.1.Cht to hng tnhin (natural flavouring substance)

Cc cht to hng thu c bng cc qu trnh bin i vt l, cu trcha hc ca hng liu m khng thtrnh khi hoc khng nh hng (v d:chit bng dung mi v chng ct), hoc bng cc qu trnh sdng enzym hocvi sinh vt, t cc nguyn liu c ngun gc ng vt hoc thc vt. Nhngnguyn liu ny c thcha c chbin hoc c chbin dng lmthc phm theo phng php chbin thc phm truyn thng [v d: phi sy,sao (rang) v ln men]. iu ny c ngha l cc cht c nhn bit/pht hintrong cc nguyn liu tnhin c ngun gc ng vt hoc thc vt.

2.2.1.2.Cht to hng tng hp (synthetic flavouring substance)

2.2.1.3.Cc cht to hng c to thnh bng qu trnh tng hp cc cht hahc.

2.2.2. Phc hp to hng tnhin (natural flavouring complex)

Cc chphm cha cc cht to hng thu c bng cc qu trnh vt llm bin i cu trc ha hc ca hng liu m khng thtrnh khi hoc khngnh hng c (v d: chit bng dung mi v chng ct), hoc bng cc qutrnh sdng enzym hoc vi sinh vt, tcc nguyn liu c ngun gc ng vthoc thc vt. Nhng nguyn liu ny c thcha c chbin hoc cchbin dng lm thc phm theo cc phng php chbin thc phm truynthng [v d: phi sy, sao (rang) v ln men]. Cc phc hp to hng tnhin

bao gm tinh du, nc hoa, hoc cht chit, sn phm thy phn protein, sn

phm chng ct hoc cc sn phm rang, gia nhit hoc thy phn bng enzym.


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2.2.3.Hng liu dng khi (smoke flavouring)

Hn hp cc thnh phn khi thu c bng cch xl gcha qua chbinbng nhit phn vi mt lng khng kh hn chv c kim sot, chng ctkh, hoc dng hi nc qu nhit, sau cho khi gi qua hthng chit lnghoc chng ct, ngng tv tch ly pha nc. Cc thnh phn to hng chyuca hng liu dng khi l axit cacboxylic, cc hp cht nhm cacbonyl v cchp cht phenol2).

2.3. Thnh phn thc phm khng to hng (non-flavouring foodingredient)

Cc thnh phn thc phm ging nh phgia thc phm v cc loi thcphm m c thc bsung vo ha tan, phn tn hoc pha long, hoc

sn xut, bo qun v sdng hng liu, nu cn.3. Nguyn tc chung sdng hng liu

3.1. Vic sdng hng liu trong thc phm khng nn qu lng an ton ivi lng n vo ca thc phm.

3.2. Cc hng liu cn c tinh khit thch hp sdng trong thc phm.Nhng tp cht khng thtrnh khi khng c c mt trong thc phm cuicng mc m c thgy ra ri ro khng chp nhn c cho sc khe cangi tiu dng.

3.3. Vic sdng hng liu chtc ng hoc lm thay i hng vcathc phm, min l vic sdng khng lm cho ngi sdng hiu lm vbncht hay cht lng ca thc phm.

3.4. Cc hng liu cn c sdng trong cc iu kin thc hnh sn xut tt,bao gm gii hn vlng c sdng trong thc phm mc thp nht cnthit t c hiu quto hng mong mun.

3.5. Cc hng liu c thcha cc thnh phn thc phm khng to hng, bao

gm ccc phgia thc phm v cc loi thc phm cn thit trong sn xut,bo qun, xl v sdng hng liu. Cc thnh phn nh vy cng c thcsdng pha long, ha tan hoc phn tn hng liu trong thc phm. Ccthnh phn thc phm khng to hng cn:

a) c hn chn mc thp nht cn thit m bo an ton v chtlng ca hng liu v thun tin cho bo qun v ddng sdng;

b) c gim n mc thp nht hp l c thc khi khng dng v chcnng cng nghtrong thc phm;


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c) c sdng theo quy nh ca tiu chun ny khi dng v chc nngcng nghtrong thc phm cui cng.

4. Cc cht to hng v cc thnh phn ca phc hp to hng tnhin m cthcn n mt sbin php qun l ri ro

4.1. Mt scht to hng v cc cht l thnh phn ca phc hp to hngtnhin, hoc cc thnh phn thc phm c tnh cht to hng (v d: thomc v gia v) c thc xc nh l c lin quan tim n n sc khe conngi. Da trn nh gi ca JECFA, c thxem xt cc xut vcc bin

php qun l ri ro cthvi cc cht to hng hoc thnh phn ca phchp to hng tnhin bo vngi tiu dng.

4.2. Trong mt strng hp nht nh, cn thit lp cc bin php qun l

ri ro gim thiu cc ri ro cth, khi thch hp. Cc bin php qun l riro cn ph hp vi hng dn qun l ri ro hin hnh v c xem xt cc bnnh gi ca JECFA c lin quan.

4.3. Khi thit lp cc bin php qun l ri ro gim bt ri ro i vi sckhe con ngi tcc cht to hng c bsung hoc cc thnh phnca phc hp to hng tnhin cng nh cc thnh phn c mt tnhinsn c trong thc phm, cc tiu ch sau y cn c xem xt:

a) Thc hin ng vic nh gi ri ro i vi cc cht to hng, thnh

phn ca phc hp to hng tnhin hay cc thnh phn tnhin cathc phm;

b) Vic nh gi ri ro xc nh c mt nguy c cthi vi sc khecon ngi lin quan n sc mt ca mt cht trong thc phm do sdng cht lm cht to hng hoc mt thnh phn ca phc hp tohng tnhin hay thnh phn c mt tnhin sn c trong thc phm;

c) Cc mc ti a c thchp nhn c i vi cc cht c trong cc thcphm c thc thit lp trn c snh gi chn ung, sdng

phng php thch hp m bo rng lng n vo ca cc cht tttccc ngun khng vt ngng an ton;

d) Cn c sn phng php chun c xc nhn xc nh mt chtcthtrong thc phm. Cc phng php phn tch nn theo Cc nguyntc xy dng cc phng php phn tch (Stay ca Codex).

5. Vsinh

5.1. Khuyn nghcc hng liu c p dng theo tiu chun ny cn c

ch bin v x l ph hp vi cc iu tng ng ca TCVN 5603:2008(CAC/RCP 1-1969, Rev 4-2003) Quy phm thc hnh vnhng nguyn tc


37/38


chung i vi vsinh thc phm v cc tiu chun lin quan khc nh cc quyphm thc hnh v cc quy phm thc hnh vsinh.

5.2. Cc hng liu cn tun theo cc tiu ch vi sinh vt c thit lp theoCAC/GL 21-1997 Principles for the Establishment and Application ofMicrobiological Criteria for Foods (Nguyn tc thit lp v p dng tiu ch visinh vt trong thc phm).

6. Ghi nhn

Ghi nhn hng liu ph hp vi cc yu cu ca TCVN 7089:2009(CODEX STAN 107-1981) Ghi nhn phgia thc phm. Ghi nhn thc phmc bsung hng liu ph hp vi cc yu cu ca TCVN 7087:2008 (CODEXSTAN 1-2005) Ghi nhn thc phm bao gi sn.


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TI LIU THAM KHO

Ting Vit

1. PGS.TS. Lu m C (2005), ti nghin cu khoa hc nghin cu chit tchcht nhum mu thc phm tkinh nghim sdng thc vt ca ng bo dntc thiu s(bo co tng hp)

2. Vng Ngc Chnh (2005), Hng liu m phm, NXB i hc Bch KhoaTPHCM

Trang Web.

1. http://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdf

2. Nhng iu th v v son mi, http://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-

son-moi-p214a44067.html3. www.google.com
http://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-son-moi-p214a44067.htmlhttp://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-son-moi-p214a44067.htmlhttp://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-son-moi-p214a44067.htmlhttp://www.google.com/http://www.google.com/http://www.google.com/http://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-son-moi-p214a44067.htmlhttp://www.lamsao.com/nhung-dieu-thu-vi-ve-son-moi-p214a44067.htmlhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdfhttp://repositories.vnu.edu.vn/jspui/bitstream/123456789/4518/1/Bao%20cao%20tong%20hop_Luu%20Dam%20Cu.pdf

NGHIÊN CỨU MÀU TỰ NHIÊN CHO SON MÔI

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Transcript of NGHIÊN CỨU MÀU TỰ NHIÊN CHO SON MÔI