Internship Report

On

Dyeing, Printing and Quality Control

Submitted To :

Ms. Mandakini Awasarmol

HR Manager

Morarjee Textiles Pvt. Ltd.

Submitted By:

Anand Singh & Dazy Rani

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HYDERABAD

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Acknowledgement

This report marks the completion of the two week industrial training program

undertaken as a part of B.F.Tech curriculum.

We are highly thankful to Ms. Mandakini Awasarmol, HR Manager at Morarjee textiles

Pvt. Ltd. firstly for permitting us to undertake this training at such an esteemed

organization and modern processing unit and overall for the facilities that were made

available for us in all the possible ways during this period.

We are also thankful to the head of all the departments for guiding us during the

training period.

We are also indebted to all the staff members and the workers of the Morarjee textiles

Pvt. Ltd for their help and support who helped in making this project possible.

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Contents1.Introduction..............................................................................................................................6

1.1 History...............................................................................................................................6

1.2 Corporate Profile...............................................................................................................6

1.3 Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric.......................................................................................7

1.4 Departments......................................................................................................................7

1.4.1.Unit II details...............................................................................................................7

1.4.2.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd.........................................................................8

2 . Departments Studied:............................................................................................................9

3. Design Studio..........................................................................................................................9

4. Pretreatment Processing......................................................................................................13

4.1. PROCESSING UNIT......................................................................................................14

4.2. Mercerization..................................................................................................................14

4.2.1. Process Flow: -........................................................................................................15

4.3. Scouring.........................................................................................................................16

4.4. Bleaching........................................................................................................................16

4.4.1. Recipe for bleaching bath........................................................................................17

4.4.2. Precautions..............................................................................................................17

5. Dyeing...................................................................................................................................18

5.1. Dyeing Methods and Procedure.....................................................................................20

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5.2. Developing solutions......................................................................................................20

5.3. Cold pad batch...............................................................................................................21

5.3.1. Batching time...........................................................................................................22

5.3.2. Problems..................................................................................................................22

5.4. Types of dyeing..............................................................................................................22

5.5. After treatment................................................................................................................22

5.5.1. Recipes and conditions............................................................................................23

5.6. Stenter............................................................................................................................24

5.7. Sanforising.....................................................................................................................25

6. Printing..................................................................................................................................25

6.1. Printing Department objectives......................................................................................27

6.2. Pigments........................................................................................................................28

6.3. Direct Printing.................................................................................................................28

6.4. Discharge Printing..........................................................................................................29

6.5. Screen Printing...............................................................................................................29

6.6. Color Preparation ingredients.........................................................................................29

6.7. Process flow for Reactive Printing..................................................................................30

6.7.1. Ingredients for reactive color Printing......................................................................30

6.8. Process flow for Pigment Printing...................................................................................31

6.8.1. Pigment paste preparation.......................................................................................32

6.9. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing................................................................32

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6.9.1. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste........................................................33

6.10. List of machine, equipments and their specifications...................................................34

6.11. Texfab Loop Ager.........................................................................................................35

6.12. After treatment..............................................................................................................35

6.13. Specifications used in pigment printing and color fixation............................................36

6.14. Texfab Soaper..............................................................................................................36

6.15. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities..................................................................37

6.16. Control parameters and precautions before Printing....................................................37

6.17. Control parameter for Rotary Printing...........................................................................37

6.18. Environmental aspects and impacts of printing............................................................38

7. Quality assurance.................................................................................................................38

7.1. Physical testing..............................................................................................................39

7.1.1. Instruments and tests..............................................................................................39

7.1.2. NORMS...................................................................................................................39

7.1.3. Check points............................................................................................................40

7.1.4. Seam slippage testing.................................................................................................41

7.2. Chemical testing.............................................................................................................42

7.2.1. Description of some test..........................................................................................43

7.2.2. Calculations.............................................................................................................44

7.2.3. Specifications...........................................................................................................44

Conclusion................................................................................................................................45

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1. Introduction

Morarjee is a name synonymous with fashion. With over a hundred years of experience and

modern integrated manufacturing facilities, Morarjee makes cutting edge fashion a reality. It

has technical collaboration with Swiss and Japanese companies that sets it’s apart in the

industry.Morarjee is part of the Ashok Piramal Group, a diversified and leading business group

in India.

1.1 History

The Morarjee Gokaldas Spinning & Weaving Co. Ltd. is the oldest textile company in India,

established as early as 1871. It is among the first five companies to be listed on the Indian

stock exchanges. In 1935, the mill was acquired by Piramal Chaturbhuj, heralding a new era of

growth and prosperity. Since inception, quality and service were the hallmark of the company.

Riding on these factors, the company has survived the ups and downs in the textile sector.

In the early 90’s the biggest challenge came from World War I. Not only did the mill survive, it

came out much stronger. In 1940, the mill joined the Swadeshi movement and set up a Khaki

department. It won special acclaim from Mahatma Gandhi for this. In 1942 – the Viceroy

awarded a gold medal to the company for the khaki drill. 

The 1950’s was the period of unparalleled growth and expansion. The dye house was

modernized with the installation of a continuous open width boiling & bleaching plant, a

modern impregnating unit & a steaming J. Box. This was to improve the fastness of mineral

khaki for which Morarjee Mills have been known for. Next on the cards was acquisition.

Morarjee took over the Sayaji Mills located in Mumbai in 1981 and transformed it from an

obsolete loss making unit to a highly profitable modern textile mill. 

Continuous up -of technology and research and development of products has transformed

Morarjee into a leading player in the fabric business. Most of the leading global and domestic

players are its clients today

1.2 Corporate Profile

Morarjee is a leading player in premium cotton shirting fabric and high fashion printed fabric

globally. Morarjee subsidiary company, Integra Apparels and Textiles Ltd specializes in woven

tops, casual shirts and garments for women.

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Morarjee has a 49% stake in Just Textiles Ltd. which is currently engaged in processing

various fabrics installed at its factory in Ambernath, Mumbai. Morarjee counts most of the

popular international and domestic brands as it clients, across 20 coutries. Dunhill, Zara,

Esprit, Hugo Boss, Next, Paul Smith and Zodiac are some of its customers. In the domestic

market, Morarjee caters to popular brands like Louis Philippe, Van Huesen and Zodiac.

1.3 Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric

Morarjee has an integrated manufacturing plant at Nagpur in Central India. The plant is

equipped to produce premium shirting and high fashion printed fabric for clients across the

globe. To cater to the changing demand and requirements of the fashion industry, Morarjee

believes in investing in product development and technology up-gradation.In the last decades,

two new fabric manufacturing units have been set up in Nagpur. These are supported by state-

of-the-art Design Studios, to keep abreast of the trends in the industry. The company today is

focusing on premium and high value niche product segment and has two divisions - Yarn dyed

shirting division and Printing Division for voile, satin, poplin and other high-end products.

1.4 . Departments

1.4.1.Unit II details

Plant is having following departments: -

1 Spinning 5.Dyeing

2 Weaving 6.Printing

3 Quality assurance laboratory (wet and dry) 7.Finishing

4 P.T.R. (pretreatment) 8.Folding

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1.4.2.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd.

New process house

Engraving Exit Office

Colour

Kitchen Printing Dyeing Exit

Chemical finishing bleachingstore Folding

Blow Room Weaving Post

Spinning

Spinning Singeing preparatory processes For Weaving

Exit Entry Exit

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Admin.

2 . Departments Studied:

1. Design studio

strike off

Exposing

2. Processing

Pretreatment

Dyeing

3. Printing

Rotary Printing

Flatbed printing

Gum & Printing Paste Preparation

4. Quality control

3. Design Studio

Morarjee has always played a great role in the fashion movement, for over a century. To

spearhead this, It has set up a state-of-the-art design studio in Italy and India. These studios

are run by creative a team that provide speedy solutions and ideas, customizes designs and

also gives access to the latest international styles, exclusive colors, patterns and designs.

There are 16 members in the design studios. The processes in design studio is divided into

following sections

1. Creation-The design is created and designed according to the specifications given by the

customer. The people from marketing department visit the place and understand about the

design that needs to be printed according to the specifications provided by the buyer.

The design to be printed is decided by :

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specifications given by the buyer

Trend forecasting

Fashion forecasting

Magazines report

2. Separation: The colors present in the specific design are made in several specific channels.

The color components present in the design are segregated individually to understand the

color requirement according to that design. It is decided by the printing department, design

studio , PPC ,marketing and quality control. The process of separation is done on the basis of

availability of machines & the design specifications given by the buyer. The finalized design is

then sent for engraving or exposing

3. Engraving or exposing: This is the process of engraving the specified design on the

screens so that it can be used for printing processes.

Process flow of exposing:

Unpacking the screen

Changing the curvature of screen that is flat to cylindrical

Degreasing

Coating

Exposing

Developing

Endring

Preparation of Dichromate Solution

100 ml of distilled water + 20 gm ammonium bicarbonate powder

20 % aqueous solution for mixing in photo emulsion

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Photo emulsion

1 kg photo emulsion + 150 gm distilled water + 50-65 gm ready aqueous solution

The chemical is prepared and filtered, then kept in a freezer for 4 hours before coating.

In mixing, the sensitizer with emulsion make bubbles, so to avoid bubbles it is kept in a

freezer. If we use the chemical directly with bubbles, it will burst during coating and

there will be uneven coating. In freezer the chemical become viscous.

Coating parameter

I. Temperature required - 29-32 0C

II. Drying of screen for 40 – 60 min (rotary screen printing)

III. Nickel screen is used and mesh size of 40-holes/linear inch.

IV. The coating is done in the absence of white light.

V .Light exposure - 35 sec (flat bed screens)

Screens

The screen is made up of nickel alloy, which is minutely perforated in nature, which is used for

printing. The screen comes in three sizes 61cm, 81.4cm, and 91.4cm circumference. Stipper

Acid is used to clean the screens. The cost of one screen for rotary print is Rs. 4,000.and 500

– 1000 m clothes pieces can be printed using one screen. The length of the screens comes in

641.2 mm and 1750 mm. The cost of one screen for flat bed printing machine is Rs. 300 and

once used it cannot be used again for further printing. The screen size is 82” X 42”.and the

design printing area is 60”.Total time taken for screen preparation for flat bed screen Printing is

12 minutes.

Degreaser

When nickel screen is unpacked, it is smooth in nature. It is put in a degreaser to make the

screen rough so that chemical can easily impregnate into the screen and the imprint of colors

on the fabric make denser. The oils, waxes & impurities are also removed and then dry

naturally.11

Endring

In Endring, rings are attached in the ends of the screen so that it can be fitted in printing

machine. ALALDITE Epoxy Gum + Hardener -------- Gum Paste

Gum Paste is applied in the ends of the screen where ring is attached by heating rods at

750W.

Color scanner Technology (CST): In CST, designs are programmed in CAD and black ink jet

draws that design on the rotary screen. The U.V. light passes through the whole rotary screen.

The U.V. light will pass only through the spaces where black ink jet does not draw the design

i.e. the spaces will be blocked by the U.V. light and design remain perforated.

4. Strike Off

The order or design specifications are given by the buyer to the marketing department

and the design studio.

It deals mainly with the sampling of the specified design.

Samples are made on baby rotary printing machine ( screen -9 “X 9” )

Ingredients used for printing is sodium alginate ,urea (10-15 %) ,sodium

bicarbonate ,Turkey Red oil (TRO ) and water (80 % ).

10 -15 made samples are sent to the buyer for approval out of which5-7 samples are

selected for bulk printing.

This process takes a time span of 10 days for the completion of whole process.

BABY STRIKE OFF or BABY ROTARY MACHINE

Type of screen used –Rotary screen

Length of the rod-15Mm

Pressure required-80kg/cm2

Speed-60 rpm

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Process Flow for Baby strike off

4. Pretreatment Processing

PROCESSING

94.1. PROCESSING UNIT

Department No. Machines

Processing Department 8 BENNINGER JIGGER (capacity-150 kg)

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Sample Taken Out Ageing Hot Wash with Soap (2gpl)

At 950C (2 times)

Cold WashDryingHalf Piece FinishColour Approval

SINGEING

DESIZING

SCOURING &

BLEACHING

MERCERISATION

2

3

1

2

2

2

3

1

KLEINEWEFERS Mercerization (capacity-2500m)

STAR-HISAKA jet dyeing

ROPE OPENER

SHAKTI JUMBO JIGGER (capacity-250 kg)

YAMUNA JIGGER (capacity- 350 kg)

KUSTER PADDING( cold pad batch)

KIER scouring & bleaching (capacity-2100kg)

PRIMATEX stenter

4.2. Mercerization

Called after its inventor John Mercer. The cloth is

soaked in strong caustic soda and washed under

tension.

The treatment is usually carried out under tension, with caustic soda at 28°- 30° (approx. 270-

330 g/l). This process is important for cotton   fabric  which is treated with a caustic solution for

improving properties such as fiber strength, shrinkage resistance, luster, and dye affinity.

The yarn or fiber is dipped in a solution of sodium hydroxide and then treated with water or

acid to neutralize the sodium hydroxide. A variation of this process is hot mercerization. It adds

more value to the fabric. This process involves saturation of fabric in caustic soda solution at

higher temperatures and then cooling, stretching and final washing. 

Hot mercerization is done.

Cold mercerization faces the problem of non-uniformity due to highly viscous solution.

Concentration of caustic soda is around 280-300 g/l.

Treatment temperature is 50 0C.

Mangle pressure-3.5bar.

10% shrinkage during mercerization.

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160-165m fabric with width of 2m inside the machine at a time.

A total of 12 rollers are there in bleaching machine.

4.2.1. Process Flow: -

4.3. Scouring 

The aim of alkali scouring is to produce an absorbent material with an average degree of

whiteness and extremely low mechanical and chemical damage.

Scouring should be :

– Saponify fats and waxes.

– Split proteins and pectins. 

For this, the following are required:

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WETTING WITH

WATER

PADDING (50 0C,

caustic)

SQEEZING IN

THREE CHAMBERS

WASHING (950C,

20-30 Sec)

NEUTRALIZATION DRYING

CRP (CAUSTIC

RECOVERY PLANT)

Up to 25é NaOH (20–80g/l) and Temperature 1000

4.4. Bleaching

It is the process of decolorization for removing all natural colors from the gray good. It is a

chemical based process. Bleaching

is further classified into oxidative

bleaching and reductive bleaching.

Natural fibers are all generally

bleached with oxidative methods

using such chemicals as sodium

hypochlorite, sodium chlorite or

hydrogen peroxide. In addition to

bleaching, Optical Brightening

Agents (OBA) are also applied to

give the textile material a brilliant

white look.

Oxidative bleaching with peroxide is done

It is combined scouring and bleaching process

Peroxide bleaching is used instead of Hypochlorite because it provides permanent

whiteness and also does not require any antichlor treatment

7 washing zones.

Initially three washers 90 0C, 90 0C, and 60 0C respectively

Last four washers at 90 0C, 90 0C, 90 0C, and 60 0C respectively

Last chamber is meant for neutralization with acetic acid

Running speed of take up roller 40 rpm

It varies with required finish of the fabric16

It has a chain (conveyor belt) system in steaming chamber. Fabric rests over the belt is

plated form and so provides residence time of 13 min.

Soda and Megawet RW is used as commercial reagents in Morarjee textiles.

Fabric has to be tested for

I. PH: - phenolphthalein (colorless to violet) at PH 8-9

II. Whiteness index (spectrophotometer)

4.4.1. Recipe for bleaching bath

Chemicals Quantity (ml/kg)

Peroxide (Megawet RW) 30

Wetting agent 4.5

Stabilizer 24

NaOH 18

Steaming temperature 92 0C

4.4.2. Precautions

Steam flow should be uniform

Sufficient residence time

Uniform pressure.

4.4.3. Problems

Patches may appear sometimes due to improper temperature control in steamer and so roof

temperature is kept slightly higher than base temperature.

5. Dyeing

Often applied to the finished cloth to give a uniform all-over colour. But some weaving is

carried out with yarns that have already been dyed. And printing can also be considered as a

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dyeing process. The first artificial dye, mauve aniline derived from coal tar, was discovered by

William Henry Perkins in 1856. With artificial dyes there was a much greater range of bright

colours and dyes were developed which were 'fast' and also fade-resistant.

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DYEING

Jumbo &

Yamuna Jigger

CPB

(Kuster Dyeing)

Small Jigger

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AFTER TREATMENT

(SOAPER WASH)

FINISHING

STENTER, SANFORISING

WASH

BATCH

5.1. Dyeing Methods and Procedure

Dyeing Methods Procedure

CPB Dyeing(1000ml) Color + 60 ml water + 20ml urea

10 ml soda (for light shades)

20 ml soda + Caustic (20 :5) (for medium shades)

20 ml soda + Caustic(20:8) (for dark shades)

Batching Light shade - 8 hrs

Medium shade - 8-12 hrs

Dark shade - 8-14 hrs

Washing Normal - 60 0C

Hot wash - 95 0C

Soaping - 95 0C

Neutralization - Ph 4.5

Washing (cold wash)

5.2. Developing solutions

Reactive dye: - 20 g/l Glauber salt + 20 g/l soda ash + 5 g/l caustic soda + 3 g/l resist salt.

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Dyestuffs:-

5.3. Cold pad batch: -

Silicate padding is done.

Bath temperature is kept 200C.

Dye liquor containing urea is fed into the tank along with alkali.

Dye liquor: alkali- 4:1.

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Colour Name Reactobond col.

strength

Jakofix col.

Strength(%)

Reactobond

quantity(gram)

Jakofix

quantity(gram)

Red H8B 100% 126 1000 793

Blue H3RP 100% 113 1000 885

Brown H4R 100% 107 1000 935

Orange H2R 100% 104 1000 961

L.Yellow H4G 100% 136 1000 735

G.Yellow HR 100% 95 1000 1052

Black HN 100% 131 1000 763

Purple H3R 100% 103 1000 970

T.Blue P5G/HN 100% 124 1000 806

Black CECL/XLW 100% 100 1000 1000

Air pressure-7 bar.

Speed-40m/min.

Mangle expression (CPB-2)-60%.

5.3.1. Batching time: -

12-14 hrs for medium and dark shades

8-10 hrs for light shade

Washing is done after batching.

5.3.2. Problems: -

Patches-Adjust the speed to maintain proper residence time.

Stitch marks-Plastic paper is placed over the seam.

5.4. Types of dyeing

Reactive dyeing

DEPTH SALT (g/l) SODA (50 %) CAUSTIC (ml/l)

0-0.5 % 30 10 1

0.5-1.5% 40 12 1

1.5-3 % 60 15 1

3-7 % 80 20 1

Black 100 5 2

5.5. After treatment

SOAPER

Stenter wash at 300C.- 400C without soap and acid.

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Counter flow washing is done.

18 drying rolls.2 cooling rolls

135m fabric inside the machine at a time

150m inside relax chamber

25000L water in each chamber

Fabric speed-35m/min

Expander rolls at feeding end to remove creases

5.5.1. Recipes and conditions

Pre-softening (on stenter): -

Pursoft 10 g/l

Acetic acid 2 g/l

Washing: -

After construction of fabric through

one of the many techniques described above, it is known as greige good or gray good. This

simply denotes any unfinished fabric. Many finishing processes are employed for improving the

appearance, feel and durability of the fabric. These processes are broadly classified as

Preparatory Processes, Stabilizing Processes, and Textural Processes.

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Soda 15g/l

Wetting agent 4g/l

Speed 50m/min.

5.6. Stenter

This is basically a smoothing out of the cloth. Because after bleaching, or any wet process, the

cloth will get wrinkled or creased. Stentering (done by "stenterers") removes these bumps.

It is used for: -

I. For OBA application

II. For heat setting

Both pin and clip arrangements are used

Oil heating mechanism for drying

7 chambers in stenter.

Bowing and heading rollers at the feed end to remove creases.

Fabric speed: -50m/min

Speed and temperature are two important parameters

CHAMBER NO LIGHT SHADE MEDIUM SHADE DARK SHADE

1 110 0C 110 0C 110 0C

2 120 0C 120 0C 120 0C

3 130 0C 130 0C 130 0C

4 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C

5 140 0C 140 0C 150 0C

6 140 0C 140 0C 150 0C

7 140 0C 140 0C 150 0C

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Faults

Pin holes

Yellowing

Oil spots or soiling

5.7. Sanforising

It is pre shrinking finishing

Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it

Shrinkage > 5 %

Speed 50 m/min

Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C

50 m fabric from in to out

After shrinking zone, there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric

Fabric is cooled and then batched

Some shade variation may occur

Pressure-9kg/cm2

6. Printing

It is the process of transferring the given design on the specified fabric by the printing

department. Printing is a very economical means of producing patterned material. The dye is

applied by rollers and flat bed screens and each color is applied separately

PVA is used for the adhesion of fabric on conveyor belt

Speed 80-90 m/min

Dummy rollers to remove surface impurities

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Maximum screens are possible

Rangolite is used as discharging agent in paste form

Belt is washed and used again.

Printing department process flow

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Marketing

DESIGN STUDIO

planning ,separation, engraving, exposing and screen frame checking

Washing

AGEING or CURING

PRINTING DEPARTEMENT

Planning for colors, chemicals and fabric printing

s/off approval and D/P design Cad approval

Quality or Fastness Checking

Delivered to finishing

6.1. Printing Department objectives under ISO 9001 -2008

Sr.no

.

Objective Current level Target level Date Action

1. Reduce cost of

printing dyes and

chemicals

7.0 % 6.84 % March

2012

Modify recipe and

reuse the dyes

2. Increase

packaging

percentage of

printed fabric

93.05 % 93.45 % March

2012

Steps to control

defects

To achieve the

OTIF %

EXPORT

92.05 %

RMG

72.08 %

EXPORT

95 %

RMG

75 %

March

2012

Co-ordination

between PPC,

marketing, QC and

customers

Styles of printing

Direct Style Discharge Style Resist Style

Pigment Discharge

Reactive colour Pigment Colour

27

6.2. Pigments – These are dry particles that give colour to ink. There are various types of pigments such as

organic and inorganic. Organic pigments contain carbon and hydrogen and most are made

from petroleum. Coal, wood, animal fats, and vegetable oils are also used in organic pigment

manufacture. Generally there is a wider selection of colors in relationship to inorganic

pigments. Colors tend to be richer, brighter, and more transparent.

Inorganic pigments are chemical compounds, typically formed by precipitation. Pigment colour

is determined by the proportions of the chemicals used to produce a pigment. Ink made with

inorganic pigments are less expensive to produce than those made with organic pigments.

They give good opacity but lack some of the qualities of organic pigments inks, such as

transparency. Pigments are classed as opaque and transparent pigments.

Opaque pigments are used when transferring an image to cover a substrate or when

overprinting another colour. Opaque whites are also used for mixing with other inks to lighten

the colour or hue. Many times a printer will print opaque white to help "hide" the influence of a

dark colour paper on the overprinting ink. Transparent pigments are used to allow the

background material or ink to be seen. All process colors (black, cyan, magenta and yellow)

are transparent. Process inks need to be transparent to allow the proper tapping mechanism to

occur.

6.3. Direct Printing:-

It is the most common approach to apply a colour pattern on fabric. It can be done on white or

a coloured fabric. If done on coloured fabric, it is known as overprinting. The desired pattern is

produced by imprinting dye on the fabric in a paste form. To prepare the print paste, a

thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it. Earlier corn

starch was preferred as a thickening agent for cotton printing. Nowadays gums or alginates

derived from seaweed are preferred because they are easier to wash out, do not themselves

absorb any colour and allow better penetration of colour. Most pigment printing is done without

thickeners as the mixing up of resins, solvents and water itself produces thickening.

28

6.4. Discharge PrintingIn this approach, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is printed with a chemical that destroys

the colour in the designed areas. Sometimes, the base colour is removed and another colour is

printed in its place. The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed.

6.5. Screen Printing

It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads, nylon, polyester, vinyon or

metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked

areas onto the fabric. Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as 'Flat Screen

Printing' or 'Rotary Screen Printing'.

A significant characteristic of screen printing is that a greater thickness of the color can be

applied to the substrate than is possible with other printing techniques. This allows for some

very interesting effects that are not possible using other printing methods. Because of the

simplicity of the application process, a wider range of inks and dyes are available for use in

screen printing than for use in any other printing process.

Utilization of screen printing presses has begun to increase because production rates have

improved. This has been a result of the development of the automated and rotary screen

printing press, improved dryers, and U.V. curable ink. The major chemicals used include

screen emulsions, inks, and solvents, surfactants, caustics and oxidizers used in screen

reclamation.

6.6. Color Preparation ingredients

Required amount of colour is taken.

TRO is added and dissolved in hot water at 60 0 C.

The above made paste is added to the gum paste i.e. sodium alginate paste.

1. For blotch color-mix for 10-12 min. 2. For motif colour –mix for 5-7 min.

The viscosity of the paste is measured.(blotch 25-30s & motif 45-60 seconds)

The colour paste is filtered using polyester bolting cloth and labeling is done

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6.7. Process flow for Reactive Printing

6.7.1. Ingredients for reactive color Printing (1000 liter)

Ingredients Amount (in kg)

Hexa phosphate 3kg

sodium alginate 12 kg

CHT alginate 12 kg

Ludigol AR (softening agent ) 4 kg

Urea _

thickening agent Sarex –Al -1 _

sodium Bicarbonate (Alkali ) 35 kg

Mega print PRA (viscosity) 10 kg

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Printing Drying Ageing

Ready for

finishing

Washing

6.7.2. Reactive color Paste Preparation

1. The vessel is cleaned.

2. Stirrer is started and 3k of sodium Meta hexa phosphate is added and left for 10 min.

stirring.

3. Add 12 kg of sodium alginate and 12 kg of CHT alginate while stirring as a thickening agent.

4. Stirring of gum is done for 4 hours.

5. The gum is cooled down and urea is added to reduce and maintain the temperature of 45

deg. Celsius.

6. 4 kg of Ludigol AR is added to the water for the softening action and added to gum paste.

7. Now the thickening agent Sarex –Al -1 is added in water and added to gum paste.

8. Now 35 kg of sodium Bicarbonate is added for the alkaline medium maintenance and stirred

for 10 min.

9. 10 kg of Mega print PRA is added to gum and stirred for 10 min. and the viscosity of the

paste is checked (60-90 viscosity )and PH is checked (PH =8.5).

10. The gum paste is stored then in large tanks.

6.8. Process flow for Pigment Printing

31

Printing Drying Curing

Quality

checking

Finishing

6.8.1. Pigment paste preparation

Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added.

Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min.

Urea is added and run for 5 min.

25 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15

min. and 5 min, respectively.

6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min.

0.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min. and stirred.

6.9. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing

32

Printing Drying Ageing

CuringWashingQuality

Checking

Finishing

6.9.1. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste

Ingredients Parts

Water 168 parts

Pidicryl Binder BN 15 Parts

Tri –ethanol amine (TEA ) 1 part

***Liquid Ammonia 1 part

Pidimine S1/100 2.5 Parts

Urea 3 Parts

Pidicron DTS 10 Parts

Total = 100 Parts

*** Around 1-2 % of Pidiprint 160 (thickener) is added in the above mixture so that it becomes

slightly thicker and does not come out during stirring.

6.9.2. Pigment discharge paste

Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added.

Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min.

Urea is added and run for 5 min.

2.5 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15

min. and 5 min, respectively.

15 kg of Rangolite ST to paste and run for 15 min.

6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min.

0.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min. and stirred.

33

6.10. List of machine, equipments and their specifications

Sr.No. Specification Rotary M/C Busher Flat

Bed M/c

Ichinose Flat

Bed M/c

Baby Rotary

M/c

1. Make Stormac T. Maneklal Ichinose M-Tex

2. Model Stormac IV Hydromag III Ichinose 7000

3. Yr. of mfg. 1984 1980 2006 2005

4. No. of colors 13 10 12 2

5. Function Pneumatic Hydraulic Pneumatic Hydraulic

6. Printing width 1850 mm 1575 mm 2100 mm 1850 mm

7. Speed max. 70 mtr/min 7-8 mtr /min 10-18 mtr /min 5 mtr/min

8. Screen used Nickel Metal Polyester

Bolting cloth

Polyester

Bolting cloth

Nickel Metal

9. Printing blade 5 s Rubber Rubber Magnet rod

10. Blanket

length

16.5 mtr 50.8 mtr 61.5 mtr 16.5 mtr

11. Blanket width 2060 mm 2000 mm 2400 mm 2060 mm

12. Printing Warpwise Weftwise Weftwise Warpwise

13. Design

repeat

Fixed 64.2 cm Variable upto

3000 mm

Variable upto

3040 mm

Fix 64.2 mtr

14. No. of dryer

chamber

4 1 1 1

34

6.11. Texfab Loop Ager

50 loops

For 200 meter of fabric ageing can be done in one move.

Curing by oil heating at 150 0C for 3-5 min

Ageing by steaming at 1020 – 103 0 C for 6-8 min.

950 kg / hr steam pressure and the time of contact is 9-10 min. during Ageing.

6.12. After treatment

Specifications of Equipments and Machinery used

Sr. No. Specification Arioli Loop

Ager

Texfab Loop

Ager

Texfab soaper

1. Make Arioli (Italy) Texfab (India ) Texfab (India )

2. Yr of manufacture 2004 2006 2007

3. Machine function Manually Automatic Automatic

4. Roller width 78 “ 101 “ 78 “

5. Working width 72 “ 98 “ 72 “

6. Fabric capacity 200 mtr 230 mtr 180 mtr

7. Used for Developing

reactive and

discharge

colour

Developing

reactive and

discharge

colour

For washing

clothes

8. Production/day 20,000 mtr /day 40,000 mtr /day 35,000 mtr /day

35

6.13. Specifications used in pigment printing and color fixation (ageing stage)

Reactive Printing Pigment

printing

Discharge

printing

Color

fixation

Temperature 110-1400 C 120-1550C 90-1200 C _

Air pressure 4-7 kg/cm2 4-7 kg/cm2 4-7 kg/cm2 _

Squeeze blade 45 x 0.15

45 x 0.20

45 x 0.15

45 x 0.20

45 x 0.15

45 x 0.20

_

Chamber temp. _ _ _ 102-1040 C

Contact time _ _ _ 9-10 min

Loop length _ _ _ 4 mtrs.

6.14. Texfab Soaper

Made from Texfab Company (Surat).

7 tanks for hot washing and cold washing.

16 dryer chambers and 4 cooling chamber.

36

6.15. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities

Tank Capacity Temperature Process carried out

Tank 1 980 ltr _ Cold wash (500 gm Hcl for 600 mtr )

Tank 2 1750 ltr _ Cold wash spray and overflow

Tank 3 1400 ltr 65 0 C Hot wash

Tank 4 1200 ltr 950 C Hot wash with soap (Dekol )

Tank 5 1200 ltr 950 C Hot wash with soap 1.5 gpl

Tank 6 1400 ltr 900 C Only hot wash temp. 950 C

Tank 7 980 ltr _ Only cold wash with spray

6.16. Control parameters and precautions before Printing:

PH of the printing paste should not be less than 9.

After making the color the PH checking becomes difficult so keep some color extra for

PH checking. If the PH is less then add some liquid ammonia to maintain the PH.

Same amount of ammonia should be added to paste as well as color before printing to

avoid the defects, fuzziness and the bubbling in the print paste.

6.17. Control parameter for Rotary Printing :

Proper cleaning of rotary screen is done to avoid regular check up of the screen

while printing is in process.

Setting of pressure of magnetic rod and squeeze blade is done properly to avoid

the misprints and other printing defects.

The tension of the conveyer is adjusted properly so that the spots and stains can

be avoided.

37

6.18. Environmental aspects and impacts of printing :

Aspects Impacts

Use of chemicals Excess chemical consumption

Use of steam Resource depletion

Spill or leakage of chemicals Soil and water pollution

Fumes and heat Human discomfort in summer

Use of oil and grease Spent oil and hazardous wastes

Steps of improvement

To improve the safe working practices Use of PPE (personal productivity

equipments) and make available MSDS

(material safety data sheet )

Conserve water resources Use of recycled water from ETP (effluent

treatment plant )

7. Quality assurance

Quality assurance department works on in process quality control. It maintains the quality

standards.

It has been divided into separate zones, which work independently.

Lab dip section

38

In process control

Finished product inspection

Note: - ISO/AATCC standards are followed.

7.1. Physical testing

7.1.1. Instruments and tests: -

Seam Slippage/Tensile Tester (H5RT)

Tearing Strength Tester (Paramount)

Crock Meter (Paramount)

Washing Fastness Testing

Computerized Twist Tester (BTRA)

Random Tumble Pilling Tester (SDL atlas)

Martindale Pilling Tester (SDL atlas)

Wrap Reel (Kamal metal ind.)

7.1.2. NORMS: -

Tensile strength: - minimum 25 lbf

Tear strength: - minimum 1.5 lbf

Seam slippage: - 15 lbf

Pilling (Martindale) ---- 4

Color fastness

I. Light shade ---- 4

II. Medium shade --- 3 – 4

39

III. Dark shade 3

Rubbing fastness

I. Light shade ----- 4

II. Medium shade ----- 3

III. Dark shade ------ 2 – 3

7.1.3. Check points

WEIGHT/ sq meter and WEIGHT/linear meter

Width of fabric

Fabric construction of woven fabric

BOW: - bow occurs when yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedge

and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric

I. Take a full width specimen and level the weft yarn

II. Then a straight edge is placed across the fabric between two points at which the last

reversed yarn meets the two selvedge or edge

III. Maximum distance or deviation from straight edge is measured

IV. Measure the full width of the test specimen

V. % Bow = (max deviation in cm)*100/full width in cms

Dimensional change

Tearing strength (pendulum method)

Fabric construction (ASTM D 1375) :- no of ends or picks falling per unit distance when

fabric is held without tension

DCAHL (AATCC – 135): - determination of dimensional change in test specimen when

subjected to repeated laundering

40

Seam slippage (ASTM D 434)

Crease recovery angle (AATCC 66)

Abrasion resistance (Martindale ASTM D 4966-98)

Pilling resistance (ASTM D 497-99)

Absorbency (AATCC 79-59)

Whiteness using spectrophotometer

Color fastness to washing

Water fastness (AATCC 107 – 199 D)

Perspiration fastness

7.1.4. Seam slippage testing

Test the suitability of woven fabric seaming.

Seam slippage is the load required to produce a specific amount of opening in a given

direction (warp over weft or weft or warp)

In “warp over weft” warp yarns moves/slides over the weft yarn and vice versa

Cut a piece of fabric 4*14 inch with long direction parallel to the weft yarn for warp yarn

slide over

Fold the specimen 4 inch from one end with the fold parallel to short direction of the

fabric (face to face)

Sew a seam of about ¾ inch from crease of folding 40/3 spun PET thread with 0.03 inch

needle in diameter

Cut the fold open

Fold the entire specimen at equal distance and cut an un-seamed sample

Cut three samples

41

Condition the specimen

Set the machine at 75 mm jaw separation 300m/min speed

Test the seamed and un-seamed sample (seam should be between upper and lower

jaws)

7.2. Chemical testing

This is done to check the purity of chemicals

NORMS: -

CHEMICAL PURITY

Caustic soda > 47 %

H2O2 > 49 %

Sodium hydrosulphite > 84 %

Hypochlorite > 40 g/l of available Cl

Glauber salt 6.5 < Ph <7.5

Alginate Moisture 10 – 15 %

MgCl2 > 95 %

Resist salt > 95 %

Soda ash > 93 %

Hardness < 300 ppm

pH 6.5 – 8.5

42

7.2.1. DESCRIPTION OF SOME TEST

Test Procedure

Concentration of recovery

caustic

I. Take 5 ml sample of caustic and add 500 ml of water.

II. Take 10 ml from this solution and titrate it against 0.1 N HCl using

0.1 N phenolphthalein as indicator.

Gram per liter = B.R.* 40

Testing of H2O2 I. Take 5ml peroxide soln. Add 5ml (20%) sulphuric acid.

II. Titrate against KMNO4 (0.588 N)

End point: colourless to pink

Reading*2= grams/lit

Testing of Caustic soda I. Take 2 ml caustic soln. Add 2-3 drops of indicator

phenolphthalein.

II. Titrate it against 0.245N HCl

Reading * 2= grams/lit

Purity of Caustic soda I. Take 5-6 gm of sample in 500 ml of water

II. Take 25 ml of this diluted solution in conical flask

III. Titrate it against 0.1 N HCl using phenolphthalein and methyl

orange as indicator.

IV. Color change pink to colorless and yellow to orange.

43

7.2.2. Calculations

Test Procedure

mg/l of chlorine in water I. Take 100 ml of water sample and titrate it against 0.02 N

AgNO3

II. Use 4 % K2Cr2O7 as an indicator with end point of yellow

to red.

Chlorine in water (mg/l) = B.R* 10

Testing of NaOCl III. Take 5ml of soda bleach solution. Add acetic acid &

potassium iodide(10%)

IV. Titrate with sodium thiosulphate(0.28 N)

End point:-Brown solution turns colourless

Reading *2=gram/lit

7.2.3. Specifications: -

For mercerized sample: -

Whiteness – minimum 75

Residual size – min 7 (on a scale of 1-9)

pH

I. Full white 5.5 – 7.5

II. Dyed 5.5 – 7

Absorbency

Finished < 10 sec 44

Conclusion

The textile internship has been completed in Morarjee Textiles Ltd, Nagpur, Maharashtra. The

duration of the internship was of two weeks where we had covered designs studio,

pretreatment of cotton fabric, dyeing, printing and quality control & assurance methods of

textile processing. We study the various aspects of a textile processing unit starting from

design section to the functionality of the various departments. We are introduced to the various

brands of machineries available for carrying out the different textile processes to meet global

standards. The internship helps us to understand the structural and functional constituents of

the industry and also adapt to real industrial situations which equips us for decision making in

a realistic environment

45