Material Quality Manual

This manual is provided to understand Fabric inspection process and requirements to deliver the highest possible quality as well as report all test results as per Customer requirements.

Although this manual describes quality requirements and we also expects its partner suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality. This culture must begin with management commitment to prevention-based and continuous improvement- based quality systems including:

Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts Ensuring that processes are stable, capable, and centered through the application of

statistical data analysis techniques Documenting systems, processes, procedures, etc. as necessary to maintain effective

operations

Quality Mission Statement“Create consumer loyalty and lead brand integrity through an integrated Quality Strategy.”

Quality philosophy is based on the following principles: Establish clear, consumer-focused requirements Plan for Defect-Free performance Quality happens within every Process (each supplier, department, & individual owns

quality) Ensure the Process is capable of meeting the Customer requirements Control the Process Continually reduce Variation and factory Defective Rate

Prevention System Definitions:Design QualificationSystems and procedures where Matrix’s product engineering team works with customer design/development groups to help identify and prevent failure modes in product design.

Supplier QualificationProcess of evaluating and approving suppliers to ensure they are capable of achieving Matrix Sourcing requirements, and include a review of suppliers’ quality manufacturing and management systems against our requirements and world-class benchmarks.

Materials QualificationProcess of testing, evaluating and approving raw material to ensure that the manufacturing process is capable of producing material that always meets World class customer specifications!

Product Qualification

Process of evaluating and approving finished goods to ensure that the manufacturing process is capable of producing product that always meet specifications!Metrics & Strategic ReportingProcess of collecting vendor product quality performance data to track performance and set priorities for corrective action

Fabric Quality RequirementsIntroduction:We will provide a guideline to the factory for evaluating, grading and separating the incoming quality of fabric to be used for our Clients. This is important for the vendors to note on what are the expectations for incoming fabric quality.

This process also assists factories in detecting defects and preventing substandard fabric. We have described widely recognized inspection procedure as a training framework for inspectors. Our ultimate goal is to promote communication and align procedures between the factory and the vendor to resolve quality problems.

Inspection Requirements AreaThe inspection area should be:

Open, clean and dry Well lit

Equipment Inspection Frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or meter)

counter, and an undercarriage light to see through the construction and an overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric.

Inspection Speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per minute (27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls.

Viewing Distance: The inspection should be performed from an observation distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the fabric width.

Lighting: Overhead Customer required lighting is recommended for the inspection. The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles)

Calibration and Maintenance Inspection frame should be included in vendor’s periodic maintenance plan. All components of equipment which can output a quantifiably value needs to be calibrated

annually e.g. Speed drive/ Counter/ Weight (if scales available on frame)

Light Box and Color RoomEach Vendor should have an International light box equipped with:

Light Source Light TypePrimary Source Light D 65 (6500K) Average North Sky DaylightSecondary Source Light CWF (4150K)Tertiary Source Light A (2856 K) Tungsten

The Light box must be in a closed conditioned room with no interference from outside light and it must be calibrated from time to time as recommended by its manufacturer. The walls of the room should be painted neutral gray.

Variable speedUndercarriage lighting with adjustable

Yard / Meter

Light box in a conditioned room, or protected area with black curtains.Note: Suggested Light Box brands are:

Verivide CAC Macbeth Judge II Macbeth Spectra light III Datacolor Truvue

Tools Measuring Tape Pick Glass Scissors Defect Stickers / Tags Selvedge Defect Flags Inspection Report Forms

Light box in a conditioned room, Or protected area with black Curtain

Steel or Reinforced fibreglass ¼ tape measures (cloth not recommended)

Approved Item SwatchThe vendor is required to use the Matrix Sourcing approved Fabric swatch in development stage as a quality reference sample for hand-feel/ Color and aesthetics verifications in bulk production.

This approved item swatch must be properly stored for use in quality comparison. Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor name, item number, color name, date approved, Approved test report, Production SPEC, and any other relevant information.

Inspection Procedure / ExecutionWe do expect the vendor to inspect 100% of all outgoing shipments, identify, label and records defects and ship only first quality materials. The vendor should be familiar with our inspection procedures and standards to ensure that vendor’s internal inspection is capable of at least meeting or better exceeding our expectations.

Color and AestheticsCut a head-middle-end sample across the width of the fabric, preferably about 2 yards inside of each dye-lot. This sample will be used for color and aesthetic verification to ensure lot to lot, head to end fabric consistency.

Color Evaluation1. Color Standard: Check the head-middle-end sample in the light box against the Customer color

standard and/or approved lab-dip under primary & secondary light source. This process should be done once for each color inspected.

Scissors Defects Stickers

2. Shading within the roll: Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of each roll inspected, using the head-middle-end sample for comparison.

Side to center Side to side End to end

3. Color Continuity Card: Check for color consistency between the dye-lots. Cut a small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the center and the right side of the head-middle-end sample of each inspected dye-lot and attach to the color continuity card. Ensure that cards are labeled. Check the samples against the Customer color standard &/or approved lab-dip. Note any significant variation of shade from roll to roll

Aesthetics EvaluationInspect overall hand-feel and appearance against customer approved item swatch in development stage for cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling etc.

If the aesthetics does not match the sample, Vendor will reprocess that yards or will submit to Matrix/ Customer for approval.

It is the vendor’s responsibility to ensure that the reference sample provided to the factory is the original. This sample will be used by the factory for, hand-feel and aesthetics verification.

The reference Sample size is 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 centimeters) cut out from the approved batch. This reference sample must be properly stored for use in quality comparison. Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor name, item number, color name/code, date, batch number, and any other relevant information.

Fabric Reference Sample

Visual InspectionOnce the color and aesthetics have been checked and approved, begin the visual inspection for defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the inspection frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The Four Point system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and warp knit.

Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment. Mount the roll on the inspection frame with the face side up.

Fabric WidthMeasure the fabric width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of every roll. If a variation in fabric width is found, the vendor will contact Matrix Sourcing to determine if the fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the inspector should also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should as per customer requirement, lay flat, be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to curl.

Roll LengthMeasure and record the length of each roll inspected.

Inspection for DefectsThe Vendor should train and/or conduct internal certification for the inspectors according to this Manual and Matrix Sourcing requirements. The Vendor inspectors should inspect each material type based on Four Point System before shipped.

Four Point System A widely recognized inspection method frequently used in the textile industry. It is a technique issued by the American Society for Testing & Materials with reference to the designation ASTM D5 430-93 Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20 ± 5 yards per minute (18 ± 5 meters per minute).

If a defect is observed:1. Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4, according to their size and

significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect even if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total points should be calculated.

Vertical Defects Horizontal DefectsLength Points Length Points

0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 13.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 26.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 39.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4 9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4

Note: A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard), regardless of the number or

size of the individual defects. For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points and 1 defect will be assigned to each linear

yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).Example: Short End/ Barre effect on the full roll in 100linear yards: 400 points should be assigned with 100 defects

2. Mark the defect at the selvedge and/or at the defect.3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.

Inspection ResultsComplete the worksheet and calculate the total points of each inspected roll and the total of the inspected linear yards/meters. With this information use the appropriate formula below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 linear yards or linear meters).

Evaluation GuidelineFactory will evaluate a vendor’s quality performance based on the point count system, using the following guideline:

Fabric Type Allowable Points per 100 linear yardsWoven Fabric 20Wrap Knit Fabric 20Knit Fabric 20

Note: This criterion is subject to change by our Customer discretion.D.2 Accept / Reject ProcedureVendor should not ship any roll or shipment with defect points exceed the above evaluation guideline. The factory will determine how the shipment can best meet our Customer standards.

However, vendor might communicate with Matrix Sourcing prior to the shipment if the average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) of any roll shows a higher number than allowed on the evaluation guideline above. In this case, the Customer may decide to use a shipment or the roll even if the average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) shows a higher number than allowed. .

D.3 ReportingThe inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture information for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One inspection report should be completed for each Item / color inspected and send a copy of the Inspection Report to garment factory prior to or with shipment.

Inspection Report information containing inspection date / shipped date / season year / buy month / garment factory / order number / item number / batch number / dye lot number / color code and color name / inspection points / inspection results / yardages / weight / width … etc. should be clearly visible on documentation with English language at least. Records should be kept at least 2 years and available to customer upon request.We expects all material suppliers to follow the same guidelines to ensure quality product delivered to the factories,

In next section, we will continue the classification and description on fabric defects.

Points/100 yd2 = Total Points of inspected roll x 36 X 100 Total Inspected Yards x Fabric Width in inches

C. Fabric Defect ClassificationsDefect Classifications for Fabric

Defect DescriptionSlub ,Uneven Yarn Thick & Thin Thick uneven spot(s) in the fabric caused by lint or

small lengths of yarn adhering to itBarré Flaw in fabric consisting of textured or color bars in the

direction of warp or filing which can be caused by imperfection in the yarn or in the construction or finishing of the fabric.

Yarn contamination / Fly Foreign fibers or soil, woven or knitted in the fabric.Dead cotton Damaged cotton by the weather conditions, over or

under mature cotton, which is difficult to process, leaving behind white or black spots.

Missing Line Filling yarn broken when weaving / the harness mis-drawresults in two ends weaving as one, caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and machine continue to run.

Holes Missing yarn, leaving behind a space, caused by brokenneedle

Reed mark Running lines in the warp direction, caused by bent reedwire causing warp ends to be held apart.

Streaks Dark of light uneven lines, caused by faulty processingStop marks Lines in the weft direction, caused when machine

stopped ,the yarn elongates the tension results in making across the width

Knots Uneven raised knot, two yarn ends are tied togetherMiss weave/miss-knit pattern Pattern that different to the other area/ stitches failed to

form due to a malfunctioning needle or jackPuckered Selvage Uneven surface, caused by bent needle forming distorted

stitches , usually a vertical lineSelvage Torn A break in the yarn of a knit fabric that causes the stitch

to "run" along the needle line or a void caused by a missing warp yarn

Pilling Fiber gathering in the form of a bead on the surface as a result of friction caused by abrasion with other surface caused by yarn quality

Shading-Selvage to Selvage A change in shade either abrupt or gradual, caused by poor processing

Dye Streaks Uneven steaks occurred during dyeing or finishingColor smear Uneven color application as the result of color being

smeared during printingCrease Streak Uneven marks showing light or dark lines as a results

from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing process

Slippage Uneven blotch marks caused due to improper dyeingprocess

Bowing Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits the course lines lie in an arch across width of goods.

Skewing/Bias Condition where filling yarns are not square with warpyarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not squarewith walse lines on knits

Crease marks/Wrinkles/Fold Marks appears where creases are caused by fabric folds underpressure in the finishing process

Pin holes Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tender frame. Major, if pin holes

extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in thefinished product

Snagging A break, tear or pull in the fabric, caused by a pulled thread in the fabric/yarn pulled out from the fabric

Abrasion Mark Improper scratch during finishingDirt/Soil/stain Fabric got dirty spots when finishingOil Spots / grease spots An oil spot on the fabricWater Spots / Water marks Light marks, usually caused by wet fabric being allowed

to remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

Yellowing of fabric This is a phenomenon which causes light colored fabric to yellow over time

Printer Machine stop Dye smudged along width of fabric as a result of stop theprinting machine stopping

Print Out of register Print is out of fit, caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly; results in various colors of thedesign not printed in proper position

Miss print Missing color in the pattern caused by color feedingstoppage or faulty printing

D: Summary of Production Fabric Testing & InspectionMaterial Quality Process is the process developed to measure vendor performance. In this process, both vendors and factories are required to take steps to ensure first quality fabric reaches the cutting table to manufacture ultimate garment products. However to emphasize the importance and responsibilities, we have developed a summary page as described below:

II. Inspection Proceduresa. Inspection Sample

Must sample a minimum of 10% or 1 Roll, whichever is greater, of every incoming shipment by color

b. Check color Make Color continuity card between rolls inspected Check against color standard Check against vendor’s reference cutting and Spectrophotometer reading

c. Aesthetics check hand feel check fabric appearance of face side

d. Visual Inspection Measure fabric width & length Inspection for Defects by using Four Point System

e. Fill out Inspection worksheet

III. Inspection Resultsa. Evaluation guideline:

Allowable Points per 100 yards (90 meters): 10 points for all fabric typesb. Result & Reporting

Input Accept, Reject or Standard Exception result into MIS (Material Inspection System)

IV. Record keeping at least two yearsa. Documents provided by Vendor:

Seasonal Reference Sample Vendor Internal Inspection Report Vendor Internal Physical Test Report Reference cutting of each dye lot & Spectrophotometer Reading Vendor Letter for “Limited Approved” status and “Spectrophotometer non-readable values

b. Documents prepared by factory: Color continuality card between rolls inspected Inspection Worksheet