Cabinets can be a very interesting part of yourwork in a Hardware/Home Improvement store. Asuccessful sale and installation is a major eventin your customer’s life. It’s a change theyprobably have been dreaming about for yearsand one they will enjoy for many more years.

It’s also a large sale for you and your store andone with good profit potential. If you do a goodjob with cabinets there will be winners all aroundincluding you, your store and your customer!

Doing a good job with cabinets means extendedknowledge in a number of areas: kitchen layoutand design, cabinet manufacture, qualitychoices, measuring, countertops, installationand more.

Many times a chapter of instruction is written totake you from the small points and build to theoverall picture. This chapter will be the opposite.

We first want you to see kitchen design andlayout principles, then take a look at the sizesand styles manufactured so the kitchens can belaid out, sold and ordered by you, to fit into thefloor plan layouts wanted by your customers.

SELLING KITCHENS

This chapter will be quite technical withinformation on sizes, construction, etc., but rightup front, we want to remind you that whenselling “cabinets” only 10% or so of theinformation you give the customer should betechnical. And you don’t want to spend any moretime than that selling “cabinets”.

Ninety percent of your time should be spentselling benefits. Benefits such as convenience,beauty, pride, value and more. Whatever thecustomer really wants from his or her purchase.

Not too many people just want to buy cabinets.They may want to make their kitchens (andwhole house) look good for an upcominggraduation, or anniversary, or some otheroccasion, but they don’t want to buy cabinets(after all they cost money). The only way toachieve the fresh new look they want, however,is to replace those old unappealing cabinets nowin their kitchens. So even if they don’t want tobuy cabinets, in order to achieve the goal theywant, that’s just exactly what they’ll have to do.

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

In order to give you a good foundation withwhich to sell benefits, we’ll spend a lot of time onproduct knowledge. This will help you tailor yourcabinets to the customer’s needs and desires.

You’ll have to pick the 2 or 3 bits of productknowledge the customer is interested in, fromthe 200 or more you have available in yourmind. Only display as much product knowledgeas is appropriate for the specific customer. Theobjective during the sale is to help the customerbuy, not to “show-off” your product knowledge.

Cabinets can be used in all rooms of a houseand often are. Kitchens are the most common,followed by bathrooms. But cabinets are alsocommon for storage in dining rooms, dens,family rooms, home offices, laundry rooms, etc.

This chapter is mostly about kitchen cabinetsand kitchen design, since these are the mostcomplicated cases you will probably have. Butremember to direct your cabinet selling efforts toall parts of the house when appropriate.

KITCHEN LAYOUT AND DESIGN

One of the first decisions in designing a newkitchen is the shape the cabinets and appliances

CHAPTER B12

KITCHEN/BATHCABINETS

will make after they are all installed. Sometimesthis choice is limited by room size, location ofdoors, windows and adjacent rooms in thehouse.

Whether cabinets are put in an existing home ora new home often makes a difference. In anexisting home, you may well have to work withexisting plumbing, door locations and windows.Of course these can all be changed, but often itis quite expensive.

With new construction the desired cabinet layoutcan be designed, then window and doorlocations put in after. Plumbing and electrical isthen designed for the specific layout.

When examples and situations are talked aboutin this chapter, it will be on replacing cabinets inan existing home. If you’re designing a kitchenfor a new home the same principles will apply inmost cases, only it will be easier.

COMMON KITCHEN SHAPES

There are 4 common basic kitchen shapes withmany variations (see the “Common KitchenLayouts” figure on the facing page). These are:

1. One wall2. Corridor or Galley3. “L”4. “U”

These layouts can be complimented bya peninsula and/or an island.

In some cases you have no choiceabout the kitchen shape. If you dothough, you’ll want to work with yourcustomer to pick the shape that bestsuits their situation.

The “Common Kitchen Layouts” figureshows the work triangle. This is oftenused to show the efficiency of a layout.The “U” shaped layout showsrecommended minimum and maximumdistances between the major kitchenwork centres and minimum andmaximum recommended totals.

You should check your design againstthe standards shown. These arereasonable and have evolved fromactual practice and research. If yourdesign falls outside the limits take agood look at it.

Many times your customers bring in a designthat they want. While it may not workable, offersuggestions in a helpful way, but don’tdowngrade their design. Many kitchens falloutside these guidelines and people seem toadjust just fine.

KITCHEN CENTRES

There are three major kitchen centres: the foodstorage centre, the food preparation centreand the clean up centre. The major centresrevolve around a major appliance or the sinkand the cabinets on one or both sides. Minimumand suggested countertop spaces to the sides ofthe appliances are shown in the figure below. Ifyou go below these minimums you will probablyhave a poorly designed kitchen. Having morethan the recommended distances is fine, as longas the work triangle doesn’t get too large.

Good judgement would indicate that a smallerhome and/or a smaller family would usually havea design closer to the minimum sizes. A largerhome and/or family will need to be nearer themaximium suggested sizes or over.

SUGGESTED SPACE STANDARDS

COMMON KITCHEN LAYOUTS

All kitchens should have a “minor” centre calledthe mixing centre. This is nothing more than36" to 42", or more, of uninterrupted counterspace.

Some kitchens also contain these “minor”centres (and some have even more): aplanning centre, a laundry centre, or aneating centre.

All the centres can have “remote” locations aswell. For example, the food storage centrerevolves around the refrigerator and includescabinets near the refrigerator used to store food.But a pantry cabinet is also part of this centreyet may be located some distance away. Afreezer is part of this centre, if the family hasone, but can be located a good distance awayfrom the refrigerator, or it may be a part of therefrigerator. It can also be located in thebasement, garage, or other locations.

The counter space within the various centresoften overlap. The same 24" next to therefrigerator, which is used to set groceries downon, may be part of the minimum 36" ofuninterrupted counter space needed for the mixcentre.

The point is this: this kitchen lesson informationcovers common situations, but there are a lot ofdifferent situations that occur. So use yourimagination and good judgement as you reviewthe illustrations and examples.

THE FOOD STORAGE CENTRE

The refrigerator is the main appliance in thiscentre. A freezer is also a popular appliancethough its location varies widely as previouslynoted. This centre is often located convenientlynear the back or side door so groceries can bebrought in and set down next to the refrigeratoron a 15" to 24", or wider, countertop.

Wall and base cabinets around the refrigeratorwill be used to store food. A pantry cabinet or acloset used for storing canned goods is often anice design touch. And food is also storedthroughout the kitchen depending on the family’slifestyle and preferences.

Your customer may want a flour bin and/orbread box built into a cabinet. Or any of themany other accessories offered by yourfavourite cabinet supplier.

FOOD PREPARATION CENTRE - INCLUDINGCOOKING

Preparation of food can mean washing andcleaning vegetables, opening microwavablepackages, baking, boiling, frying, etc.

This means the main appliance will be therange, but will also include the sink, amicrowave and any other small appliances usedin food preparation.

A list of these would include a crock pot, toaster,blender, electric fry pan, popcorn maker andmore.

Some kitchens will include a cooktop and then aseparate oven, or two. A grill type range is apossibility as well as a second microwave. Whoknows what new appliances will becommonplace in the next 5 to 20 years. Kitchensdesigned in the past did not plan formicrowaves.

You’ll need enough counter space on one orboth sides of the major cooking appliances.

You’ll want base and wall cabinet storage forpots, pans, cooking utensils, seasonings,measuring devices, the smaller appliances andmore. You may want a spice rack, a breadboard, a cutting board, or any of a number of“extras” that are available, in this foodpreparation area.

A general rule is to store items at point of firstuse. So pots might be kept near the sink butfrying pans near the range, for example.

The food preparation area requires carefulindividual design considerations because of thewide range of preferences individuals have. Askyour customers lots of questions to determinetheir kitchen habits and how best to design theirkitchen so it meets their needs.

MAJOR KITCHEN CENTRESFOOD STORAGE

FOOD PREPARATIONCLEAN-UP

MINOR KITCHEN CENTRESMIXING

PLANNINGEATING/DINING

LAUNDRY

CLEAN-UP CENTRE

The sink is the main item, but adishwasher is also very popular. If thecustomer does not have or want adishwasher right away, design a 24"base cabinet to the right of the sink (forright handers) so it can be taken out laterand a 24" (standard size) dishwasher canbe added.

A sink is used in all phases of kitchenwork, so it should be located between therange and refrigerator for convenience.Some kitchens will have two sinks, sothat could affect placement.

Remember that that counter space isneeded on both sides of the sink. Forstacking dirty dishes and then forstacking clean ones.

Some designers will say a single bowlsink is adequate if you have adishwasher, but most people end upwishing they had a double bowl sink, sotry to avoid the single bowl in yourdesigns.

A waste disposal is fairly common and atrash compactor might also be desired.

The cabinets in this area should includespace, probably under the sink, fordetergents and cleaning supplies. Theymight also include a broom closet nearbyas well as drawers for dishcloths andtowels. A lot of people prefer to storetheir “everyday” dishes and silverware innearby cabinets also.

These are the three major kitchencentres. But there are several minor centres.

MINOR KITCHEN CENTRES

Some homes have only the mixing centre, somehave two or more and some have them all.

MIXING CENTRE

Here is 36" or more of uninterrupted counterspace for preparing breads, pies, cakes, cookiesand much more. You would design storage formixers, blenders, etc., since this is the point offirst use for many items.

PLANNING CENTRE

A desk height (30") counter with knee spacewhere a person can sit down to do mealplanning, answer the phone, take messages is anice addition if you have the space. It is usuallylocated outside the work triangle at a quiet endof the kitchen.

Planning centres may be expanded to include acomputer for meal planning, personal finances,homework, etc.

KITCHEN PLANNING GUIDELINES

1. When using an existing refrigerator be sure to consider

the door swing in planning its location. (Some refrigeratordoors can be reversed.)

2. Since the refrigerator and built-in oven are tall, place themso they do not block the flow of work from one counter to

another (generally you place them at the end of a line of

cabinets).3. If reasonable, place the refrigerator nearest the entrance.

4. Avoid placing the refrigerator right next to a wall thatextends past the refrigerator. The doors will open butyou may not be able to remove the shelves orvegetable crispers.

5. Keep a range or surface unit at least 9" or more away

from a window curtain to avoid possible fire hazard.6. Plan your layout so that as foods are prepared they move

toward the dining area.7. Locate the range to the right of the sink for right handers,

to the left for lefties.8. A sink under a window is preferred by many.

9. Plan a 24" cabinet next to the sink if no dishwasher isincluded at this time. Then one can be added later with a

minimum of redesign. (But don’t plan a drawer base inthis space. You won’t want to remove that).

10. A medium sized house should have a minimum of 10' ofwall cabinets and 10' of base cabinets.

11. Plan at least one base drawer cabinet.12. Understand and avoid the “corner” problem of drawer

clashing. (More on that later in this chapter).

13. Keep cabinets at least 2" away from door and windowtrim so you have “someplace to go” if measurementsare off a little. Also when the trim is not “plumb” it is notso evident with a wider gap such as 2 or 3 inches.

14. Bread boards and/or chopping blocks are popular.

15. To make a room seem larger use light colors on allsurfaces.

16. A kitchen floor is often lighter than other floors in thehouse.

17. A lot of sunlight in a kitchen is desired.

A planning centre also may be the control pointof your audio, video and security systems.

So you see, what starts out as an “extra” centrein kitchen planning can turn out to be a criticalpart of a lifestyle. If you are well informed inthese areas, give your customers good ideasand help them make decisions they will behappy with today and tomorrow, you’ll have agood chance to get their repeat business.

EATING/DINING CENTRE

Many people prefer to eat most meals in thekitchen area rather than a formal dining room.This eating centre can be as a part of the regularcountertop, often as part of a peninsula.

It may mean keeping the regular countertopwidth of 25" to 26" and just putting stools by thecounter. Often though, the countertop is madean extra 8" to 18" wider so there is knee spaceunder the extra countertop overhang. Often theoverhang is lowered to chair height, as manypeople prefer sitting on chairs instead of stools.

Some kitchens provide space for a regular tableand chairs. The “L” shape works well for thispreference, though just off the end of a corridorkitchen works also, as can any kitchen shape ifthere is enough room.

Another choice is to provide a built-in table andbench seats in what is commonly called abreakfast or dining nook.

Allow 36" space in all directions for each person,when designing these areas.

LAUNDRY CENTRE

A clothes washer and dryer are the commonappliances in this area. Depending on locationand preferences, it may also include a laundrysink, storage cabinets, hamper, a clothes foldingtable. Possibly a built-in ironing board or spacefor a free standing one and maybe even asewing area.

LIGHTING AND VENTILATION

Sometimes you have little to say about this but itpays to bring it to your customers’ attention.

They may have not given it much thought,concerning themselves mostly with the layout ofthe new kitchen and the desired cabinet styleand colour.

Remodelling time, however, is the time toconsider changing or adding windows and/oradding lighting and electrical outlets.

Many older homes do not have adequateventilation to exhaust cooking odours as well asexcess moisture. Now would be the time toconsider fixing that situation.

Natural lighting is preferred by many people.This could mean more and/or bigger windows.Also general lighting, usually a ceiling fixture, iscommon. Then each work centre and appliance,as appropriate, should have its own direct light.

Nobody ever complains about his or her kitchenhaving too much light, but a lot of kitchens aregrossly underlit.

If a home has an adequately sized electricalentrance there is usually room to add severalelectrical circuits. If the kitchen needs them it isusually affordable to simply add a circuit or two.If the home needs a new entrance (fuse orcircuit breaker box) it’s a sizable, but usuallyworthwhile investment.

Lack of proper ventilation can have the shortterm effect of undesired cooking odours floatingall through the house. And the long term effectof creating serious moisture problems that willcost a lot of money in a few years.

The most common location for an exhaust fan isover the range. Some kitchens have a wallmounted fan that draws general air out of thekitchen.

The most effective ventilation exhausts the staleair and moisture to the outside. A compromise isthe filtered vents that return the air to the room.These are not a good choice because they donothing about the moisture problem. But theymay help the odour problem.

Do your best to help the customer see the valueof “doing things right”. It may cost them a littlemore but they will reap the benefits for yearsand years and they’ll be happier.

SOFFITS

Most wall cabinets top off at 7' above floor level.In the average kitchen with an 8' ceiling, then,this leaves one foot between the top of the wallcabinet and the ceiling.

There are a number of choices for this area.One is to build a framework of wood 2x2material that extends anywhere from 1" toseveral inches out into the room past the wallcabinets. Since wall cabinets are 12" deep, thismeans the soffits are from 13" to whateveroverhang is wanted. (Sometimes lighting is putin this overhang so it may be 8" to 12" widerthan the wall cabinets. Otherwise a 1" overhangis common).

This framework could then be covered bydrywall and painted, or papered like the rest ofthe walls.

A few people will want to build sliding doors intothis area for “off season” storage. Others maywant cabinets tall enough to reach to the ceiling(typically 42" tall wall cabinets) or they will wanta row of 12" high cabinets so they can make useof this storage area.

Quite a few kitchens simply leave this areaopen. It’s quite a dustcatcher but who climbs upthere to look anyway. A “plate rail” may beinstalled on top of the wall cabinets at the frontedge so plates (or other items) can bedisplayed. Ask questions to determine yourcustomers’ preference.

THE “GREAT ROOM”

No discussion of kitchens would be completewithout a mention of the “great room” (it goes byother names, too).

Basically this is where the kitchen, dining and aliving area are all combined into one large room.It probably stems from a couple situations. Onewould be the desire for the whole family to betogether at least for parts of the day. This waywhen a meal is being prepared and someone iswatching television and someone else is readingthe paper and everyone is all in the same roomenjoying each other’s company.

Another origin was the energy crisis. All otherrooms, except the great room, could be keptvery cool during the heating season. A fireplace,wood stove, or supplemental heat would keepthis one room warm where all daytime activitieswould take place.

With a great room design all kitchen designprinciples still apply, but some take on addedimportance. Ventilation of cooking odours isdefinitely a priority.

Controlled lighting such as “dimmer” switchesmight be wanted. However, a more open designwould be appropriate. Yet most cooks wouldappreciate a place to “hide” dirty dishes, etc., somaybe a set of folding shutters between thebase and wall cabinets would be a nice touch.

RECAP OF KITCHEN DESIGN

Knowledge of kitchen centres and kitchen theorywill enable you to design a better kitchen.

Basically you put the refrigerator on or near oneend of the cabinets, the sink in the middle andthe range on the other side of the sink. Then youput in the maximum reasonable amount of baseand wall cabinets using the kitchen layout shapethat best fits the situation. To be a little moresophisticated make sure you have at least theminimum countertop space on each side of theappliances. Then check the distances betweenappliances and the overall work triangle length.

To be really successful in kitchen sales youneed to be an expert. Your customers can tellwhether you have just minimal knowledge orwhether you are well informed. If you are an“expert” in kitchen design and layout, yourcustomers will have the confidence in you tospend the large amount of money at your store,which goes along with a kitchen sale.

You get to be an expert by studying theinformation in this chapter, for starters, askingquestions, reading other kitchen designinformation, attending schools put on by themanufacturers, installing some cabinets,learning how to sketch kitchens, learning moreabout the benefits of your brands of cabinets,learning to estimate and price cabinetsaccurately and, of course, learning and usinggood selling tools.

CABINET TYPES

There are many cabinet types and accessories.Since there are a great many manufacturers andindividuals who build cabinets it is impossible tobe 100% accurate in every description of sizes,styles, types of hardware, etc., that areavailable.

You can learn a lot from this information butnothing will beat using information specific to thecabinets you sell. You should have your mainsuppliers’ catalogue with you right now. Whenthis text shows base cabinets, for example,study it. Then refer to your suppliers catalogueto see what cabinet sizes they have. Look alsofor the accessories available with your brand.

Some cabinet types include base cabinets, wallcabinets, tall cabinets and more.

Some “sub” types of these include cornercabinets, sink bases, sink fronts, range bases,range fronts, drawer bases, vertical partitionbases, lazy susans, peninsula and islandcabinets, microwave cabinets, oven cabinets,utility cabinets, pantry cabinets and more.

Some common accessories include cutlerydividers, bread and flower boxes, valances,spice and wine racks, knick-knack and otheropen shelves, bread and cutting boards, pull outshelves, baskets, pan and lid racks, end panelsboth finished and unfinished, dishwasher frontpanels, plate railing, cove, prefinished panellingto match and more.

For bathroom cabinets there are vanity bases,vanity sink bases, vanity sink fronts, vanitieswith drawers, medicine cabinets and more.

You get the idea!

MANUFACTURING METHODS

There are three main ways cabinets are handledafter a sale is made. The first is of minorimportance in this chapter. That is wherecabinetmakers custom build the cabinets on thejob or in their local shops. They take the actualdimensions, buy sheets of plywood andconstruct the exact sizes needed for a specifickitchen.

The second is where a manufacturer buildscabinets in a factory, all to set sizes andspecifications. This is quite common with lowand medium priced cabinets.

They just manufacture their set sizes onstandard production runs. A wholesaler orstocking retailer “stocks” a variety of sizesbefore a sale is made just like many otherproducts in your store. The advantage is theyare available immediately (if you have the rightsizes and styles in stock).

It puts a burden on the designer to pick out and“put together” the pieces needed to exactly fitthe kitchen, from the limited choices.

Usually the standard base and wall cabinets aremade in 3" increments from 9" to 48", but notevery 3" increment size is made by allmanufacturers. The most common 3" incrementnot manufactured is probably the 45" wall and45" base cabinet. Next size omitted from a lineup is probably the 39" cabinet.

Any cabinet other than the standard basecabinet and the 30" tall wall cabinet is evenmore restricted in sizes available. Check yourmanufacturer catalogue.

Even with the size restrictions these factorymade cabinets can fit almost every situation.There are fillers, corner bases that have a largecentre panel and therefore can be slid up to 3"or more, to take up the “slack”, face frames thatcan be “shaved” if necessary, etc. It may takesome planning on your part, but these cabinetsshould be able to work in 99% of the kitchensyou have.

The third choice, usually with medium and upperpriced cabinets, is where the manufacturer hasset sizes, but does not make them until an orderis received. Of course this means a two to tenweek, or more delay before receiving thecabinets.

An advantage is that the manufacturer will alterthe set cabinet size, for an additional charge, sothat no filler pieces are needed and the cabinetscan fit exactly. They can also stain the exposedcabinet ends that need it and possibly use amore economical wood for the ends that arecovered.

When you deal with a certain kitchenmanufacturer you don’t get a choice of methods.Each manufacturer works with its method.

CABINET SIZES

Now for an in depth look at common kitchencabinets.

The figure below shows an overall view of asimple kitchen cabinet layout. Then commoncabinet types and sizes follow.

A SIMPLE KITCHEN LAYOUT WITH SOFFIT, WALL AND BASE CABINETS

BASE CABINETS

Base cabinets are approximately the dimensions shown to the left.They may have a full shelf, a half shelf, or pull out shelves or trays,depending on the manufacturer.

They usually just have their width as part of the name, because theheight is constant at 341

/2" (when a 11/2" thick counter top is put on top

the cabinet working height is 36"). For example, a B24 means a Baseunit 24" wide.

Another letter or two can be added to indicate some base cabinet otherthan a “plain” base cabinet. For example, a DB24 (or BD24) means aDrawer Base (or base drawer) unit 24" wide. An SF36 means a SinkFront 36" wide.

Some cabinets may do “double duty”. For example, the same basecabinet may be used for a sink base, or a range base.

It could be named RSB30 meaning Range/Sink Base 30" wide.

Manufacturers vary in the way they name cabinets. Some put theletters first, others the numbers. Some reverse the letter order, but withthe basic knowledge covered in this course you can soon figure outwhat the names mean.

Standard base cabinets come in multiples from 9" to 48". Some manufacturers make longer “starter”assemblies that might contain a sink base, a drawer base and a regular base. Common lengths for theseare from 5' to 8' in full foot sizes, but, as always, sizes vary with manufacturer.

BASE CABINET 9" wide

Not all manufacturers have this size, but if theydo it usually has no drawer or shelves. Itprobably has vertical partitions and might becalled a “tray storage” cabinet.

BASE CABINET 12" to 24 wide

These sizes have a single door and drawer,though some 12" cabinets do not have adrawer. Some manufacturers have a fixed doorso you have to specify whether the door is“hinged right” or “hinged left”. But many can bemade to open either way (reversible).

BASE CABINET 27" to 48" wide

These sizes are double drawer and door,though some 27" cabinets may have a singledrawer and the double door may not have a“style piece” between the doors. Sometimes the45" and/or 39" and/or 27" is not available.

BASE CABINET WITH PULLOUT TRAYS

SINK BASE CABINET27" to 48" wide

A cabinet with no drawers (butwith false drawer fronts) toreceive a sink which would beset through a hole cut in thecounter top. It usually has noshelves. The 36" size is themost popular by far, then 30"and 33". Not all increments arealways available.

BASE DRAWER CABINET 12" to 24" wide

Most drawer stacks have 4 drawers thoughsome have 3. Bread boards are optional on mostbase cabinets but it is common to put one in abase drawer unit. The 15", 18" 21" and 24" aremost popular though the 21" is not alwaysavailable, nor is the 12".

SINK BASE CABINET 24" wide

This is a single door cabinet for a single sink. Oftenused as a cooktop cabinet and for a range basewith some cutting. Some manufacturers havereversible doors, others have to be specified right orleft hinging. No drawers and usually no shelf. Differsfrom a sink front, which is described later.

DIAGONAL SINK FRONT36" to 42" wide

Similar to 24" sink front butwith “wings” on each side,at 45° to cut diagonallyacross a corner. Can use astandard sink. A diagonalsink sounds “cute” but anysink in a corner makes thatarea quite congested. Thinktwice about using a cornersink.

SINK FRONT 24" to 30"

This is just the front, no sides back or bottom. Itis cheaper than a base unit, but by the timeother pieces are bought and attached it may bejust as expensive (normally a sink base ispreferred). You may find it noted SF27-24. Sinceit’s just a front, the edges can be cut down toalter the size. In this case it comes 27" but canbe cut down to a 24" if needed. Many times a30" is a double door, but not always.

SINK FRONT 30" to 48" wide

Same notes as the 24" except a double door withfalse drawer fronts. 36" is most common and not allsizes are available. Some are made so 6" total canbe cut off (3" per side).

SQUARE SINK FRONT40" wide

Another way to have a cornersink. Needs “L” shaped sink.

PENINSULA OR DOUBLE FACED BASECABINETS

A peninsula is a “leg” of cabinets you can reachfrom both sides. A common situation is whereone side of the peninsula opens into the kitchenand the other is in the dining area. There is atoe space on both sides.

It's common for doors on both sides to open,but the drawers can only pull open in onedirection.

PENINSULA BASE30" to 48" wide

Double door and drawer cabinet.Restricted sizes with 33" and 45" rare.

PENINSULA BASE18 and 24 wide

A single door and drawer base cabinetwith doors opening from both sides.Limited sizes.

PENINSULA BASE STARTER 24/27"

When you see a cabinet designated 24/27,for example, it means it can be adjusted totake from 24" to 27" of wall space. This isimportant especially with the kind ofcabinets that are factory made to pre-setsizes. A good designer takes advantage ofthis to eliminate filler strips and make thecabinet fit the required space.

This starter would go in the corner wherethe peninsula meets the standard cabinets.It only opens from the dining room side.

A standard B24, turned so the door facesthe dining area would also work, but thenthere is no adjustment for length and thetoe space area in the kitchen side has to bereworked.

TURNING CORNERS

A concern of anybody who plans kitchen cabinet layouts is to get thecorners correct. The problem is shown in the adjacent figure. Drawersmay be restricted from opening by the next drawer at right angles, or if itclears the drawer, it may clash with the drawer pull or knob.

Many cabinets have no knobs or pulls, so the drawer may clear fine fornow. But people may want to “redo” the kitchen later including installingpulls on the drawers. Make sure, then, that you avoid the “cornerproblem”.

There are several ways to successfully turn the corner. The lazy susan isa popular choice. Cabinet manufacturers make a “base corner”sometimes called a blind corner base, or similar (BC, or BCB).

This includes a 1" filler that “pushes” one cabinet away so drawerhardware will clear. The corner base has a large “style” (panel) thatenables the installer to “slide” the cabinet forward or back so that itshardware also clears. It also allows the designer to adjust a “run” ofcabinets for uneven dimensions.

You can put a filler piece on one side of two regular base cabinets, toturn the corner, leaving the corner unusable. Of course this is not usuallya good idea, but if you are bidding against a competitor who did this,your bid would naturally be higher, all other things being equal.

The corner can also be turned by using a square sink corner, or adiagonal sink corner.

CORNER CABINETS

Two corner cabinets that cutdown on problems in turningcorners are the “lazy susan” baseand the “blind corner” base.

LAZY SUSAN BASE36" wide

Always takes up 36" of wallspace. Makes good use ofcorner space but does notallow any adjusting for odddimensions in a run of basecabinets.

BLIND CORNER BASE36" to 51"wide

Manufacturers make enough sizes to cover every distance from36" of wall space to 51". They do this by making the style (panel)between the door and the opening wide enough so the cabinet canbe slid forward (called “pulled”) up to 3" and for some models up to7". Notice on the illustration that the cabinet box is usually madeshort so it doesn't go back to the wall. Often it is up to 12" awayfrom the back wall. This cuts down on storage space a little. Thiscabinet gives a lot of flexibility when a run of cabinets has to fitexactly between two fixed points. When designing be sure to put itinto the correct run of cabinets, if you have a choice (the run thathas the fixed points).

Corner Problem

Blind Corner Base

TALL CABINETS

Sometimes called utility cabinets, they areusually 84" (7') tall, but some are 66". 7' isconsidered the normal height that the top of wallcabinets are installed. There are three main tallcabinets: oven, pantry and utility or broom.

FINISHED ENDS

The fixed size cabinets usually have all thecabinet ends stained to match. Some of theseends will be exposed while others will be hidden,but since they are all pre-stained it’s not aconcern.

The cabinets that are factory made, but not untilan order is placed, usually stain only the endsrequested. This means the kitchen estimator hasto inspect the design and “list” either “REF” (rightend finished), or “LEF” (left) or “BEF” (both) andadd the required cost.

Some manufacturers have a fir end you can getprefinished at a lower cost than the main cabinetwood. This could be a good choice next to arefrigerator, for example, where you may see theend, but not plainly.

OTHER...

There are many other base cabinets andaccessories available. Appliance garages,custom shelves, prefinished matching V-groove,or no V-groove panelling sheets so the back ofregular cabinets used in a peninsula can befinished, cutting boards, bread boards, wirebasket liners, bread box liners, cutlery trays,half-round open shelves for end of basecabinets, microwave trim kits and more.

OVEN CABINET27" or 33" wide

These cabinets are used to house an ovenseparate from a range. Often used when acooktop is used in place of a range, or for asecond oven. The first image shows an ovencabinet that could hold two ovens, or an ovenand microwave. Check manufacturersinformation for how much you can cut out ofthe openings.

UTILITY (BROOM)18" or 24" wide, 12" deep

A variety of uses for both depths. Shelf kitsand other accessories usually available.

PANTRY CABINET18" or 24" wide

Sometimes a regular utility cabinet is usedand a kit is installed that contains shelves,brackets, etc. Kits are available for doorstorage. Some manufacturers have a specialpantry unit with storage in doors, shelves andother features.

WALL CABINETS

Wall cabinets are 12" deep, but unlike basecabinets, they vary in height. The most commonheight is 30", but 24", 18", 15" and 12" heightsare available (some manufacturers may have a21" height and no 18" or 24").

They range from 9" wide to 48" wide in 3"increments. The 30" height cabinet usually hasall 3" increments available. If any are missingfrom the “lineup” it’s likely to be the 45" and/or39". The other heights have fewer width choices.

Wall cabinets through 24" wide are single door.Though some 24" cabinets are available indouble door. Some manufacturers havereversible doors while with others you have tospecify “hinged right”, or “left”. Though certainstyles of any door may not be reversible, suchas a cathedral style (reversing the doors oftenmeans just turning the wall cabinet upsidedown).

Wall cabinets usually have four numbers plusone or more letters in their name. The numberslist the width first, then the height, in inches.Some common letter names include: “W” forwall, “DW” for diagonal wall, “WC” for wall cornerand more. Some manufacturers add a letter orchange them around as there is no standard.For example, “WDC” might mean wall diagonalcorner. Some put the letter first and the numbersecond, others reverse the order. Becomefamiliar with your suppliers “code”.

WALL CABINET18" high, 27" to 48" wide

Not too common, but could be in a peninsulainstead of the 24" height. Both this height andthe 15" are common over ranges and cook-tops. Could be over a refrigerator but 12" or 15"is much more common. 33" and 45" may bemissing.

WALL CABINET18" high, 24" deep and 18" or 24" wide

One of the few 24" deep wall cabinets available.This is for a “top” over utility and/or ovencabinets of the same width. Some "tall" cabinetsare 66" (5'-6") tall, with this 18" height cabineton top they equal 84" total height.

WALL CABINET18" high, 24" deep and 27" or 33" wide

Same as above, but double door.

WALL CABINET18" high, 18" and 24" wide

Not too common. Could be used over a 12"deep utility cabinet, or as part of a peninsula.

PENINSULA OR DOUBLE FACED WALLCABINETS

Wall cabinets that go over a peninsula or islandusually have doors that open from both sides.The dining room side may have decorative glassin the doors.

These cabinets are often shorter so a betterview into the other room is possible. The 24"height is common, with 30" also available.

In some peninsula layouts doors opening fromboth sides may not be wanted. Regular wallcabinets can be used with prefinished 1

/4"plywood used as a back. This is availablestained to match, usually with or without V-grooves.

WALL CABINET30" high, 9" to 24" wide

This is the single door standard height wallcabinet. All 3" increments available. 2 shelvesusually adjustable, but may be “fixed”.

WALL CABINET24" high, 27" to 48" wide

Same as previous but double door. 45" and 33"may not be available.

WALL CABINET24" high, 18" and 24" wide

One shelf, fixed or adjustable. Not toocommon, but could be used in a peninsulasituation, though the cabinet with doorsopening from both sides would be morecommon.

WALL CABINET30" high, 27" to 48" wide

Standard double door cabinet. 45" width maybe missing.

WALL CABINET15" high, 30", 33" and 36" wide

No shelf, used where shorter cabinets arewanted. Usually over a refrigerator or range.

WALL CABINET12" high, 30", 33" and 36" wide

Same as previous. Also could be used inplace of a soffit, to fill in the foot between thetop of regular wall cabinets and an 8' ceiling,for extra storage.

PENINSULA WALL CABINET30" high, 24 wide

Single door each side, often reversible byturning upside down (if door style allows). 2shelves, adjustable or fixed. One width only.

CORNERS WITH WALL CABINETS

Turning corners in wall cabinets is not as difficultas with base units. The drawer clashing problemis not present. Still, if you get two doors in acorner with their hinges back to back, it’spossible they will clash and the doors will onlyopen part way. It depends on door thickness,etc. But be aware of lt.

Many of the same type cabinets help turn wallcorners as did the base units. Since peninsulacabinets were just discussed, that is what startsoff this section.

PENINSULA WALL CABINET30" high, 30" to 48" wide

2 doors each side, usually 30", 36" and often48". 30" height not too common.

PENINSULA WALL CABINET24" high, 24" wide

The usual height for a peninsula wall cabinet,1 shelf, often reversible by rotating or specifyright or left hinging.

PENINSULA BLIND CORNER24" high, 24" wide

Same as following but more common. 1shelf.

PENINSULA BLIND CORNERWALL 30" high, 24" or 36" wide

As with base cabinets, blind wall cornercabinets can be pulled a certain distance,usually 3", to take up the slack of unevendimensions. They usually come with a 1" fillerso the door clashing problem can be avoided.

As with any blind corner cabinet, the run youchoose to put it in can make it easier or harderto adjust your cabinet dimensions. Usually putit in the run with fixed end points.

2 shelves, fixed or adjustable.

PENINSULA DIAGONAL WALL CABINET30" high, 24" wide

Another way to turn a corner and get thepeninsula started. One size, it always takes 24"of wall space. 2 shelves. Specify right or leftback door.

PENINSULA DIAGONAL WALL CABINET30" high, 24" wide

Same as previous but with a lazy susan.

OTHER...

Many other accessories and some othercabinets may be available from differentmanufacturers. A common one is the microwavecabinet.

More accessories include: wall fillers, endpanels, plate rails, various mouldings, what-notshelves, valances, wine racks, spice racks andmore.

LAZY SUSAN WALL30" high, 24" wide

Just like the previous except not for apeninsula. It always takes 24" of wall space.Makes good use of a corner, but takes awaythe flexibility of making adjustments in a runof wall cabinets.

DIAGONAL WALL CABINET30" high, 24" wide

Same as previous except 2 shelves insteadof lazy susan.

BLIND CORNER WALL CABINET30" high, 24" to 39" wide

As with blind corner base units, these unitsare usually manufactured with a large styleso they can be pulled up to 3". Sizes aremade to cover every measurement from 24"to 39". 2 shelves and usually a 1" filler pieceis included.

A good choice for flexibility in design andinstallation.

BLIND CORNER WALL CABINET30" high, 42" to 51" wide

Same as previous but wider and with doubledoors.

BLIND CORNER WALL CABINET24" high, 24" wide

Not available from some manufacturers, thisstarts a run of 24" cabinets. 1 shelf, 1 size.

MICROWAVE CABINET BOX30" wide (varies)

This can be installed below a 24", 18", or 15"wall cabinet, or whenever good designsuggests. The face frame is wide enough tobe trimmed to fit many sizes.

EXTENDED STYLES

Some manufacturers of “made-to-order”cabinets allow you to order an “extended style”(meaning vertical millwork piece) for an extracharge. This allows flexibility to cut to size on thejob for that final fit.

This is especially good with remodelling whenwalls are not plumb and/or the finish wall is notin place when you have to measure and ordercabinets.

The extra amount can be scribed or trimmed forexact fit.

BATHROOM CABINETS

Bathroom cabinets normally mean vanities.Vanities are similar to the base cabinetsdescribed earlier. Only they are generally 21"deep rather than 24" deep. Some even narrowerones are available in limited sizes for areaswhere it’s crowded. Of course the centre of mostvanities, at least the smaller ones, cannot havea drawer as room is left for the sink bowl.

One unit is used for a small vanity, but it iscommon to add vanity drawer bases or vanitydoor and drawer bases to either or both sides ofthe “bowl” unit as space permits.

Numbering is similar to base units with thevanity height assumed to be approximately 30"and the depth 21". The letter “V” is used as in24V, meaning a 24" Vanity. Or VB24, meaning aVanity Base 24" wide, etc.

Following are some common sizes. Not allmanufacturers make all sizes and some makemore.

VANITY SINK BASE24", 30" and 36" wide

This is the smallest standard sink baseusually available. No drawers or shelves.

For longer vanities add vanity drawer basesand/or vanity bases, or another sink base.

VANITY DRAWER SINK BASE24", 30" and 36" wide

The bowl is put on the left side, so that is afalse drawer front. There are drawers on theright.

VANITY BASE12", 15" and 18" wide

This is a unit that may be added to a vanitysink base to make the vanity longer. As withmany single door cabinets you have to specifyright or left hinging (as you look at the front),though some may be reversible. Has a drawerand 1 shelf.

VANITY DRAWER BASE12", 15" and 18" wide

15" is almost always available, the others maynot be. Simply a 3 drawer unit that is added tothe sink base unit if more drawers aredesired. Sometimes available in four drawers,rather than three.

OTHER…

Some manufacturers have vanity sink frontsalso. Since it is just a front panel it can betrimmed as much as 3" per side. Sizes often are30" (can be trimmed to 24") and 36" (trimmed to30").

Desk drawers are often available. These areinstalled under a counter top and are used inmaking a desk in the kitchen as well as for avanity desk.

Matching medicine cabinets may be available,30" high and 12", 15" and 18" wide (widths vary).

Vanity base fillers and matching mouldings aresometimes available.

Vanity tops are an important part of the overallvanity. They are available in many plasticlaminate patterns. Here a hole is cut and thesink of choice is set through the hole. But manyall-in-one top and sink bowl units are used.These can be very nice at a reasonable price, orthey can be spectacular at a high price. Madefrom marble, imitation marble, plastics andmore, they are included in just about everyvanity sale.

Find out what vanity tops are available to yourcustomers and learn their benefits such as easeof cleaning, resistance to stains, etc. Thisknowledge may help you sell the vanity.

CABINET SPECIFICATIONS

Cabinets are made of similar parts but how theyare constructed, the kinds of woods used, thethicknesses and qualities of products,workmanship, quality control and more enter into“cabinet quality”.

A real technical study of cabinets would get intowood species, thickness of face frames, dovetailjoints, mortise joints, etc.

This chapter is more basic trying to help youwith information that is pretty much “generic”. Ifyou want more detail on cabinet constructionrefer to your manufacturers information.

It’s a good idea to be familiar with the technicalaspects of the cabinets you sell, because thatmay justify a higher price, or enough of a reasonto choose your cabinets instead of yourcompetitors.

For example, a 5/8" face frame may look the

same to the customer, but would cost less thana 3

/4" face frame. If you have the 3/4" face frame

you’ll have to show the customer the benefits ofthe thicker face frame, or the customer will neverknow the difference. And unless you know thespecifications of your specific cabinets you won’tknow these kinds of benefits.

Most cabinets will be sold on their looks andprice, not on face frame thickness, etc., butwhen a customer is choosing between two orthree equally appealing cabinets, the store withthe look and the quality they like, has a betterchance of making the sale.

DOOR STYLES

Door styles mean at least three things in thischapter. It is a vertical piece in a cabinet. It’s thedecor of the door, such as French provincial,rustic, early American, etc.

We won’t be studying door decor. It’s easy foryou to refer to your store displays, supplier’sinformation, etc., to see what is available. Notmuch learning, is required, it is more a case ofbeing aware of what is available.

VANITY BASE ASSEMBLY36", 42" and 48" wide

Different combinations of drawers possible.Some manufacturers may have a smalldrawer on each side of a larger false drawerfront centred. Centre is for sink bowl. It ismore economical to buy one larger unit thantwo smaller ones, so this assembly is a godchoice if it has the benefits the customerwants.

DOOR AND DRAWER EDGETREATMENTS

The third use of styles is the door/drawer edgetreatment. These choices can make a differencein the kind of hardware used and the overall“look” of the kitchen. Here’s a look at threepopular door edge treatments.

Lipped Door

Usually a 3/8"

lip, all around.

This style edgetreatment is

better whencabinets are installed on walls that are out of

square, not plumb, etc. The lip conceals anyunevenness that might be seen in a flush door

installation. Of course it’s a popular style for wellconstructed walls, too.

The semi-concealed hinge shown here is often

used with the lipped door. The hinge may beequipped with a concealed spring, in which case it

is self-closing, or a “catch” may be needed to hold

the door shut.

Flush Style

These doors fit into

the face frame sot h e o u t s i d e

surfaces are even.They make for a

v e r y s m o o t hlooking kitchen. If any shifting occurs the distance

between the door edge and face frame opens upand becomes noticeable and doors may become

difficult to open or close. Not too common. A hingesimilar to the one shown here is often used.

Overlay Style

This is a populardoor style because

it can be usedwithout door or

drawer pulls orknobs. The edge above is shown square cut, but

many times it is bevelled and the door is grabbedunder the bevel to open it. Combined with self-

closing hinges, no catches are required either.

Hardware can be added later for looks. This styledoor/drawer will cause the most problems in

turning corners with base and wall cabinets. Semi-concealed pivot hinges shown at the right are often

used. Then no hardware is visible on the cabinetface.

CABINET HARDWARE

We’ll won’t get very deep into hardware. Thereis a separate chapter in this course that includesdetailled information on cabinet hardware.

You’ll want to have matching finishes and stylesof catches, hinges, knobs, pulls and backplates,of course.

Cabinet Catches

Several catch styles are available, though onnew cabinets you may not get a choice as themanufacturer puts on the one they want. Theyare not too expensive to replace, if a customerwants something different.

Pulls and Knobs

Many cabinet doors and drawers are designednot to have knobs (round) or pulls (handles).Instead they are routed out under the door ordrawer for a finger pull, or the bevelled overlaystyle doors are used. If knobs or pulls areincluded the style selection from the cabinetmanufacturer is quite limited.

If the cabinets are custom made the customercan choose from a wide selection of pulls andknobs. The main thing for you to be aware of iswhich styles and which finishes are availableand popular. Check your stock and themanufacturer catalogue for current styles andfinishes.

Backplates

Backplates are round, for behind knobs, orrectangular, for behind pulls, protection for thecabinet surface area that is frequently scratchedwhen grabbing the pull. These are not oftenincluded in new cabinets, but might be a goodadd-on sale for which the customer will thankyou later.

SOME CABINET CATCHES

Hinges

Hinges are available in many styles, finishes andshapes. One nice feature is the self-closinghinge. If your cabinet manufacturer includesthem (most do) it’s a good selling point.

Drawer Guides

Drawer guides are installed at the factory forfactory cabinets. For custom made cabinets achoice has to be made. There are two mainchoices: a mono or single drawer rail under thedrawer down the middle of the cabinet, or adouble track drawer guide. Here a guide isattached to each drawer side. Usually thedouble guide is the better choice, though it ismore expensive.

Again, if your factory cabinet has double guidesinstead of a single one, it is a selling point.

COUNTERTOPS

You may stock preformed countertops in onlyone style and several patterns, for immediatesale. People buying new cabinets, however,may want to choose from a wider selection. Inthis case you’ll probably have a bunch of plasticlaminate samples to show them. They pick outwhat they want, but you’ll probably have toaccurately price it out.

Normally the cost is a price per foot, or a setprice for certain standard lengths. Then there isadditional cost for end caps, which may beapplied at the factory, or may be shippedunattached for application on the job.

An additional charge is also made for mitres.Mitres are the angle created in “L” shaped, orsimilar, corners. There is extra bracing under thecountertop at this point and certain hardware isrequired that is put on when the top is installedand holds the mitre together. In addition thelength of the countertop is usually figured to thelongest point, so a mitred corner can beexpensive (you have to have it if the countertopturns a corner).

If you have a peninsula or island then acountertop with two edges and no backsplash isneeded.

Some arrangements require a backsplash onthe side of the cabinet, (if it butts into a wall).Again the prices will be different than the straightrun countertop.

When competing for a counter-top be aware thatsome retailers may advertise a very low price onstraight run countertops. Since very fewcountertops are that simple, a retailer couldcharge enough extra for the add-ons (end caps,mitres, etc., so the total price is equal to or morethan a store that charges a fair price for allitems. The point here is, if you are asked to giveyour price per foot or piece, try to get thecustomer to give you the whole layout so youcan quote the whole job. Inform the customer tocheck the whole price, not just the per foot orper piece price.

SOME COUNTERTOP TERMS

There are several edge styles available. It’slikely a single supplier will just have one choiceavailable, usually the one that is popular in yourarea.

EDGE STYLES

USING PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

The previous pages had a product knowledgetheme along with cabinet layout information.

Now we’ll look at information needed to carrythrough a kitchen cabinet sale. This will take usthrough the following steps.

• Ask questions• Measure for cabinets and/or countertop• Layout kitchen• Check layout• Estimate cost• Sell• Install

ASK QUESTIONS

To find out what your customer really wantsobviously means you need to ask somequestions. It should be organized and start witheasy to answer questions and proceed to moreopinion type questions. All the while giving youinformation that will help you help your customerto make a decision he or she can live with for along time.

The wrong decision many people make is theywant a really nice cabinet style, but settle forsomething less. They save some money duringthe initial purchase, but live with less than theywant for many years. If they had someone (you)who would help them clearly see what theywanted and show them how to get it, they wouldmore likely make a good decision.

This all starts with asking questions. Questionsgive you information, but they do more things.They help customers clarify things in their ownminds. The clearer they see their situation themore likely it is they will go ahead with theproject.

Another important condition is occurring and itmay be the most important thing happening. Youare establishing a positive relationship with thecustomer, by simply asking questions. Thecustomer feels you are sincerely interested intheir specific situation. Many large sales aremade because the customer is “sold” on thesalesperson, especially on larger complicatedprojects like a new kitchen.

The “Kitchen Survey Form” (following theglossary) may be helpful in learning what yourcustomers want in their kitchens.

MEASURE FOR CABINETS ANDCOUNTERTOP

After asking questions and meeting withcustomers, they may want a price quote. Theymay have their own dimensions, but sometimesyou will go out and measure.

The important thing here is A C C U R A C Y .Measure twice, add up all sub-dimensions tosee if they equal the overall dimension and thenrecheck your work.

When measuring remodelling work especially,but new work also, check walls to see if they aresquare and plumb.

Here’s one way to check for squareness.Measure along one wall for 3' (or a multiple, thebigger the better) and mark. Measure along theother wall from the same corner, 4' (or the samemultiple) and mark. Measure diagonally. If thediagonal is 5' (or the same multiple) the corner issquare. If not, it’s out of square. This is oftencalled the 3-4-5 method.

If it’s close, cabinets and counter-top can adjust.If it’s off a bit, make sure to give the countertoppeople a sketch with the amount it’s off. Theycan adjust the mitre so the top is correct. Whenmeasuring for the countertop, measuredistances at countertop height, not at the floorline. The cabinets can usually be adjusted with alittle trimming.

To check for plumb (to see if it leans in or out atthe top) use a plumb bob, level, or measure atthe floor line, again at mid-point and at theceiling line.

It’s important to measure the wall at the installedcabinet height. Wall cabinets should bemeasured at about 54" above the floor.

MEASURING

Start in one corner and measure to window anddoors, up to their trim, then across the trim, thento the next point. Measure in inches and note iton a sketch. Then measure the overall distancein feet and inches. Next add up the total inchdimensions across the wall. Convert to feet andinches and compare with your overalldimension. Then note height of window fromfloor to bottom of trim, then height from trim totrim. Note floor to ceiling height and any otherinformation on openings that is important.

Also note location of existing plumbing,electrical, heating and any other item thatmatters.

If there are not many doors or windows a “FloorPlan Sketch” alone might be okay. If the kitchenis more complex then an additional “ElevationSketch” of each wall, may be better.

It’s best to do this while at the job site so youcan recheck any errors.

MEASURING “BY THENUMBERS”

1. Start in a corner, measureto outside of trim in inches(above the baseboard).

2. Measure across trim fromoutside to outside.

3. Finish one wall.4. Measure that overall wall

distance in feet and inches.5. Add up inch dimensions,

convert to feet and inches.6. Check against overall

dimension.7. If different, correct.8. Note floor to bottom of

window trim, in inches.9. Note trim to trim height.10. Note top of trim to ceiling.11. Measure overall floor to

ceiling height and checksmaller dimensions againstit, as before.

12. Note location of electricaloutlets on this wall.

13. Note location of heatingvents or radiators.

14. Note location of plumbing.15. Note location of any other

fixed item.16. Show door swing17. Repeat for each wall.

FLOOR PLAN SKETCH

ELEVATION SKETCH

LAYOUT KITCHEN

After the customer has given you the necessarymeasurements, or you have visited the job siteand got them yourself, you should “layout” thekitchen.

You could probably estimate the kitchen withoutmaking a layout, but you increase your chancesof doing an accurate estimate if you have agood, clear, layout such as that shown on theprevious page.

A layout will help you make sure the cabinetsyou think you need will work. It will help you getall the “extra’s” such as end panels, filler strips,etc.

But more than that, it will help your customersbetter see what they are getting for their money.The clearer something is to your customers, themore likely they will go ahead with the project.

There are various degrees of sophistication inmaking up a layout. The more professionallooking and complete, the better your chances ofmaking the sale. The choices range from havingan architect draw the layout and includecoloured presentation perspectives, to having adraftsperson do it on a drawing board, tosketching it yourself on a piece of graph paper.

Practically speaking, the sketch on a piece ofgraph paper is quite common, though drawing itto scale on a drawing paper is reasonable too.

A floor plan is recommended as the minimumlayout. (“Cabinet Layout Floor Plan” page 31)Show each base and wall cabinet by number.Make sure the sizes will fit into the space youhave by checking and rechecking your numbers.

The layout plan shown is a simple layout. Youmight have to note filler pieces, finished ends,valances, etc.

The figure “Cabinet Layout Elevation Example”(page 31) shows elevation views of the samekitchen. These are recommended because theygive customers what they want to see.

A perspective drawing, one that uses vanishingpoints (not shown), is even better as a salestool. If you have the ability, draw a perspective.It will increase your chances of making a sale.

To start your sketch, normally start in a cornerand work your way out. First pencil in items with

known dimensions and do a little math work atthe same time to see what space is left.

If you have a fixed point to work around, such aswanting to centre a sink under an existingwindow, use the “T” method. This isdemonstrated in the “Cabinet Layout Floor Plan”figure. This same technique works when layingout a regular cabinet run, too.

Review the kitchen planning shown at the be-ginning of this chapter and read over the kitchenplanning suggestions shown in the “CabinetLayout Floor Plan” figure.

ESTIMATING CABINETS

This means making a list of the cabinetquantities required, including all the add-ons thatneed to be charged.

Listing the countertop and all its options andlisting any item that you will furnish and chargeto the customer.

On some projects this means lumber, paint,drywall and all the other building materialsneeded to complete the job.

This chapter is concerned with cabinets. If youhave made sketches like the layout figures, thenyou simply list all the cabinets you’ve planned, inan orderly fashion. Complete each item withfinished ends, if needed, breadboards and anyother pieces needed. Actually when you plannedthe layout, you estimated it. All that remains iswriting it down and pricing it out.

If you haven’t made a sketch yet, then make upsomething so you can plan out what you need.

List the necessary items on your company form,price them out, double check your work and yourestimating should be done.

INSTALLING CABINETS

If you know how to install cabinets you can givecustomers who are doing their own work somehelpful hints. Doing this will help them gainconfidence in you and increase your chances ofmaking the sale.

The best way to learn how to install cabinets isto do it (assuming you do it correctly). The nextbest way (and it’s not nearly as good) is to studyand understand the manufacturers instructionscompletely.

Following are a few basic steps for installingcabinets. This is not to take the place of themuch more complete instructions from thecabinet manufacturer. There is usually morethan one correct way to install cabinets, but ifthere is a conflict in information, of course youmust follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Wall cabinets are often installed first. If the doorsare removed the cabinets are easier to workwith.

Locate the wall studs with a stud finder, ortapping on the wall for a solid sound, then drivea nail in to confirm that it is a stud. Once you findone, the rest should be 16" apart, but of course,it doesn’t always work out that way! Mark allstud locations from floor to ceiling.

The bottom of wall cabinets are generally 54"above the floor. Measure up from the highestpoint of the floor (if the floor is level any point willdo) then use a level to mark points on the walland a chalkline to mark level lines.

It’s extremely important that cabinets areinstalled level and plumb. Use a level, straightedge and shims to see that this is done. If it isn’t,doors will not line up, or stay closed.

A 2x4 or 1x2 “cleat” can be nailed to the wall.Make the top of the cleat even with the chalkline.This will give a place to rest the back of thecabinet while installing it as well as keeping itlevel.

Factory built cabinets have a hanging strip at topand bottom of the cabinet. Use screws (no nails)to fasten the cabinet to a stud. If there is onlyone stud for a cabinet, then use two screws.Sometimes a smaller cabinet will fall right inbetween any studs (bad luck)! All the cabinetsshould be fastened to each other with a screwthrough the face frames. Sometimes this isenough to carry the smaller wall cabinet (usejudgement).

Base cabinets should have their face framesfastened together, also. Installing base cabinetsis a matter of levelling and shimming as you goalong. Make sure to leave adequate space forappliances, a 1

/4" gap on each side of applianceis usual. The gaps can be pretty much hidden by

running the countertop up to the appliance(providing the countertop is a little long and doesnot have end caps applied and you install it afterthe appliances are in).

The front of the cabinets should be kept straight,so if there are gaps between the back of thecabinet and the wall, they should be shimmed atthe point the base cabinet is fastened to thewall.

There are many special situations such ashanging wall cabinets from the ceiling,peninsulas, islands, etc. Study manufacturers’literature for more knowledge.

CABINETS IN “OTHER” ROOMS

Much of the kitchen cabinet information pertainsto any cabinet installation. It is becoming morecommon to install cabinets in all rooms of thehouse.

Cabinets can easily be made into a hutch for thedining room, general storage in a family orrecreation room. An audio-visual centre can befashioned from wall and base cabinets.

A laundry room is a natural for wall cabinets andsometimes base cabinets. Same with a sewingroom.

Many homes have offices where combinationsof cabinets work out really well. Offices inworkplaces, may be a good market for cabinets.

The point is, with knowledge of cabinets anddesign, you can enthusiastically suggestcabinets for many situations.

SELLING CABINETS

Most chapters have a “selling section”. Withcabinets, you’ve probably noticed, selling isdiscussed throughout. The title “selling cabinets”is wrong! If that occurred to you, you’re on yourway to good selling. You don’t usually sellcabinets, you sell what those cabinets will do foryour customers. You sell convenience, pride,beauty, change, or whatever your customerssaid they wanted when you asked them: “If youwere to go ahead and install a new kitchen, whatwould be the main reason?”

GLOSSARY FOR KITCHEN/BATH CABINETS

Appliance garage - A small cabinet that fitsbetween the base and wall cabinet, in a corner,into which small appliances such as blenders,toasters, etc. can be stored. The name comesfrom the miniature overhead garage door at theentrance.

Backpla te - A decorative and protectivehardware piece that fits behind a knob (both areround), or behind a pull on a cabinet drawer ordoor. Used to cover up existing scratchescaused by grabbing the knob or pull, or preventthem from occurring.

Backsplash - The countertop part at the back,that goes up the wall. Often approximately 4"high.

Blind corner base - A base cabinet installed ina corner, with a drawer and door on the partvisible after all cabinets are installed, but just anopening on the part covered by the cabinet atright angles to it. It often has a wide style so itslength can be adjusted within the cabinet run.

Chalkline - A handheld tool with string woundon a reel that is surrounded in a bed of chalk.The line is pulled out, covered with chalk. It isstretched tight between two points, pulled out atthe middle and released, snapping back toposition leaving a line of chalk on the surface.

Cleat - A piece of wood fastened to the wall togive support or prevent slippage.

Cutlery divider - A drawer accessory withdivisions for cutlery (spoons, knives, forks, etc.).

Diagonal - Cutting across at an angle, usually45°.

Elevation - A drawing view looking straight atthe finished item.

End cap - The piece that finishes off thecounter-top end. Sometimes installed at thefactory, sometimes sent loose for jobapplication.

End splash - At right angles to a back splash,the countertop piece that goes up the wall at theend of a countertop, usually 2' long.

Estimate - To list and price the cost of thepieces required to do a project, as close as canbe figured.

Extended style - See style. A wide style,extending past the cabinet box an extra amount.This is intended to be trimmed as necessary tofit an irregular wall, or an inconvenient length ofcabinet run.

Face frame - The visible part of a cabinet boxmade up of styles and rails.

Filler - A cabinet piece shaped like the cabinetfront profile, that can be placed betweencabinets to fill up a space caused by wall lengthsnot matching up with available cabinet sizes.

Finished end panels - The cabinet ends thatare exposed need to be finished to match thecabinets. In cabinets built for stock all endpanels are stained. In factory cabinets built toorder, the ends needing to be finished may haveto be specified and charged extra for.

Floor plan - A view from the top showing layout.

Graph paper - Paper printed with a series oflight lines making up squares. Used to help“freehand” draw kitchen layouts to scale.

Ground Fault Interrupter - Called GFI, thisdevice breaks the electrical circuit when itsenses a “short”, before the electrical shockwould occur to a person. It is installed at thecircuit breaker box, or at the outlet. Usuallyrequired for outdoor outlets, bathroom andkitchen outlets and more.

Hanging strip - A strip of wood at the top andbottom of wall cabinets, about 1x2, throughwhich the cabinet is screwed to the wall.

I s l a n d - A cabinet(s) freestanding, notconnected to any wall or cabinet.

Layout - A view of the cabinets positioned inplace. Usually a pencil drawing to scale.

Level - To be parallel with the horizon. Or thedevice used to check for that position.

Mitre (or miter) - To fit angles together.

Pant ry - A tall cabinet with shelves andcompartments for storing canned goods.

Peninsula - A cabinet run extending from a wallor other cabinets, but connected only at thatpoint. Accessible on both sides and one end.

Perspective - A view similar to an elevation, butwith vanishing points. Most true-to-life.

GLOSSARY FOR KITCHEN/BATH CABINETS (cont.)

Plate rail - A miniature rail and spindle oftenplaced on top of wall cabinets, in place of asoffit, so decorative plates can be displayed andnot slide off.

Plumb - To be perfectly vertical.

Plumb bob - A tool with a string fastened to it.This is held in the air, the cone shaped endpoints in a perfectly plumb line.

Rail - The horizontal pieces that make up a faceframe, or a door, or a window.

Shim - Any wedge-shaped piece used to level.

Soffit - The boxed in area above wall cabinets.

Straightedge - A piece of wood or metal with nobow or cup, used to check or make straightlines.

Style - The vertical members making up a faceframe, or door, or window.

Symmetrical - Being in balance or having thesame proportions.

Tall cabinets - Cabinets usually 66" or tallersuch as utility, pantry, oven cabinets, etc.

Toe space - A space left at the bottom front ofbase cabinets so when standing up to them thefoot has a place to go and a person can becomfortable.

Valance - A decorative frame at front of wallcabinets across an opening, usually a window.

Vanity - A base cabinet designed to be used ina bathroom to hold a vanity top/sink.

Work triangle - The distance between therange, refrigerator and sink, added up. It is ameasure of the kitchen’s efficiency.

KITCHEN SURVEY FORM

“If we know a little about this kitchen project we can better help you get what you really want - thanks!”

NAME ADDRESS DATE

PHONE NUMBER(S)

1. New? Remodel?

2. How many family members?

Children? Adults?

Special Situations?

3. Is the primary user of the kitchen RIGHT or LEFT

handed?

4. Do you want eating space in kitchen?

5. A planning centre with desk?

6. Any special requirements you want in your kitchen(use back if needed)?

7. How often do you entertain for meals?

8. If remodelling, can plumbing be moved?Heating? Electrical?

Doors? Windows?

9. New windows or doors? Location?

10. Check the appliances you want, then indicate if youare using the ones you already have (E for existing)or if they’ll be new (N) and the widths (if applicable)

and if gas.REFRIGERATOR: (also, is door right or left hinged, or reversible?)

RANGE:

COOKTOP:

MICROWAVE (built-in):

BUILT-IN OVEN:

OTHER BUILT-IN COOKING UNITS?

EXHAUST HOOD?

SINK: (double or single bowl? stainless?)

DISHWASHER:

FREEZER:

TRASH COMPACTOR:

DISPOSAL:

OTHER:

11. If new surface list kind and pertinent information,otherwise put an "E" (existing).

WALLS

FLOOR

CEILING

COUNTERTOP

12. What do you want in the soffit area (above thewall cabinets?

13. Following is a list of special cabinets andaccessories, check those you would like to seeused in your new kitchen.

Eating counter Refrigerator end

Lazy susan Desk

Corner sink cabinet Dishwasher panel

Pantry Wine rack

Broom Spice rack

Cutlery divider Appliance garage

Bread box Microwave cabinet

Bread board Plate rail

Cutting board Wire basket

Half-round on end Pot lid kit

Peninsula Special hardware

Island Other

Diagonal wall corner Other

Valance Other

14. If desired, answer these questions on the back ofthis sheet :

What do you like most about your presentkitchen?

What do most want changed?

Explain anything else we should know to help youget the end result you want.

CABINET LAYOUT FLOOR PLAN

CABINET LAYOUT ELEVATION EXAMPLE

CHECKING YOUR KITCHEN LAYOUT

CHECK YOUR KITCHEN LAYOUT WITH THIS CHECKLIST

The distance from the range to refrigerator is 4' to 9'. The distance from the range to sink is 4' to 6'. The distance from the sink to refrigerator is 4' to 7'. The total work triangle is from 12' - 22'. The work triangle is unobstructed (no table, chairs, etc.). You can walk through kitchen without going through work triangle. There is at least a 15" countertop on one side of the range. There is at least a 24" countertop on both sides of the sink. There is at least a 15" countertop on latch side of refrigerator. There is at least 36" of uninterrupted counter space for mixing centre. The refrigerator door will open correctly. The refrigerator door can open more than 90° so crispers, etc. can be removed. Refrigerator is near door where groceries are brought in. Tall cabinets are at the end (or near) of the cabinet run. An exhaust hood is included. If needed, more electrical outlets are included. Electrical outlets are Ground Fault Interrupter type. Adequate lighting is provided over work surfaces. Corners are utilized. The dishwasher door can open without causing problems. If no dishwasher now, 24" cabinet is provided for later possible replacement. At least one drawer base is included. There are at least 8' to 15' of base cabinets including stove and sink. There are at least 6' of wall cabinets close to each centre (some doubling okay). The sink is between the refrigerator and range. Corners are planned to avoid door and drawer clashing. At least one bread board is included. The range is at least 9" away from window. Broom closet type storage is included or is nearby. Door swings do not conflict with appliances or other doors. One larger cabinet is used rather than two smaller ones, when practical. If blind corner base is used it is in the run with two fixed ends. If end of cabinet run is fixed, fillers will be ordered, if needed. If needed, finished end panels are noted. The half shelves found in many cabinets, are satisfactory with customer.

To recap, we're assuming you've studied the first part of this chapter and have good productknowledge of kitchen cabinets. You ask the customer enough questions to thoroughly understandwhat he or she wants. You have accurately measured the kitchen space. You've drawn a sketch atleast as good as the ones on the layout figures immediately prior to this page.

This page will give you a checklist so you can review your layout. Your biggest competition for thissale is more likely to be customer apathy rather than another retailer. Unless the customer getsexcited about the new possibilities to make a decision to go ahead, nobody will get the sale. That'sone reason you want the design to be as good as possible. So the customer can see the manyimprovements he or she can have and the many benefits of going ahead.

CANADIAN IMPERIAL AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS

Canadians generally use a mixture ofmeasurement units.

Liquid volumes are typically based on the metric(SI) system. Temperatures and distances arecommonly specified using metric terminology.Weights, depending on the type of product, useeither the metric or Canadian Imperial system.Lengths and dimensions of constructionproducts, particularly for residential use, aregenerally in Canadian Imperial measurements.

Canadian building codes are written using metricunits. But the construction trades, particularlythose in residential construction, typically usethe Canadian Imperial system. This mixture of

measurement systems frequently results inmany product manufacturers providinginformation using both systems. Unfortunately,the approaches used in presenting the“converted” measurements are not consistent.Some information is based on “exact”conversion measurements whereas otherinformation is based on “rounded”measurements.

From your perspective and in communicatingwith your customer it is important to recognizethat in some instances the exact conversion isnecessary and in other instances a more“rounded” conversion is appropriate.

CONVERSION FACTORS

1 inch (in.) = 25.4 mm 1 ounce - avoirdupois (oz.) = 28.35 g1 foot (ft.) = 0.3048 m 1 pound - avoirdupois (lb.) = 0.454 kg1 yard (yd.) = 0.9144 m

1 pound per square inch (psi) = 6.895 kN/m2

1 fluid ounce - US (oz.) = 0.0296 L 1 pound per square foot (psf) = 0.04788 kPa1 fluid ounce - Canadian (oz.) = 0.0284 L

1 gallon - US (gal.) = 3.785 L1 gallon - Canadian (gal.) = 4.546 L

Celsius temperature = (Fahrenheit temperature - 32) / 1.8

SOME TYPICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR KITCHEN/BATH CABINETS(“rounded” conversions)

Length Length Length

in. mm in. m ft. m

1 25.4 39 0.991 1 0.305

11/2 38.1 42 1.067 2 0.610

3 76.2 45 1.143 3 0.914

9 228.6 48 1.219 4 1.219

12 304.8 51 1.295 5 1.524

15 381.0 54 1.372 5.5 1.676

17 431.8 66 1.676 6 1.829

18 457.2 84 2.134 7 2.134

21 533.4 96 2.438 8 2.438

24 609.6 9 2.743

25 635.0 10 3.048

27 685.8

30 762.0

32 812.8

33 838.2

341/2 876.3

36 914.4

“In Your Store” is a worksheet where you apply the knowledge you have learned in this chapter to theproducts you stock in your store. You may be able to find the answers on your own, or you may want toask some of the people you work with for help. There are no test questions on this information, as theanswers vary with location and local custom.

Do not send these answers in for correcting. This is a worksheet to help you get more familiar withyour store. It becomes a reference tool for you to review when you need a refresher about what yourstore stocks.

DIRECTIONS: Take your copy of this page from your test package. Fill out the blanks as appropriatefor your situation. Sometimes more or less information could be entered. The object of the exercise is notto fill in blanks, but to learn more about the products covered in this chapter, as applied to the store youwork in. So just use this exercise as a guide.

What cabinet brand(s) is stocked in your store (if any)?

If you stock cabinets list:

the styles stocked.

the sizes of base cabinets usually stocked

the wall cabinet sizes stocked

the corner units stocked

the tall cabinets stocked

list the other cabinets and accessories stocked

NOTES on stock cabinets

KITCHEN/BATH CABINETS

IN YOUR STORE

KITCHEN/BATH CABINETS IN YOUR STORE (cont.)

List lengths and patterns of stock countertops

List sizes and styles of vanities usually stocked

List sizes and types of vanity tops usually stocked

Many stores may stock no cabinets or at most just one brand and style. But they like to have the “good”,

“better” and “best” choice available to special order for their customers. What brand would be your

“good” brand? “better” brand? “best” brand?

Is your normal cabinet supplier one who builds just for stock, or one who builds only on order?

What sizes of wall and base cabinets does your normal supplier not have, of the normal 3" increments of

9" to 48"?

If your cabinet maker builds to order, what “special” things will they do to help your kitchen fit the available

space (ex. extended styles, cut down cabinet size, etc.)?

Does your main cabinet supplier have training available? If so, what kind and when?

If you have cabinet displays, are they up-to-date? Clean?

Is current literature available for customer to take home? Does it have your name on it?

Do you have a file in which to put kitchen leads? If so, do you “follow up”?

Who in your store can you go to for help in kitchen design and selling?

What is the common way to handle the area above the wall cabinets?

What is the customary cabinet height above a refrigerator? Range?

NOTES:

A C K N O W L E D G E M E N T S

■ The course was first developed by the North American RetailHardware Association (NRHA) and the Home Center Institute (HCI)under the direction of a project coordinator and a number ofauthors. Several U.S. based companies provided industry specificinformation.

This second Canadian Edition of the ACHR is based on NRHA/HCI’s14th Edition. It has been extensively modified and rewritten withthe help of Carl R. Wilson & Associates Ltd. (CRWAL) so as toreflect Canadian products and construction practices. We alsoacknowledge the many Canadian organizations and companiesthat provided information for this Canadian edition of theAdvanced Course in Hardware Retailing (ACHR) and the BuildingMaterial Product Knowledge Course (BMPK).

Because local codes and regulations vary greatly, you are remind-ed to check with local experts and authorities on which codes,regulations and practices apply in your area.

Copyright© 2004 by NRHA. All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, orany system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, elec-tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, with-out prior written permission of the publisher.

Though the information in this course is intended to beaccurate and useful, the authors, editors, publishers,NRHA and CRWAL and their directors, officers, agentsand employees will not be liable for any damage whatso-ever that might occur from any use of this material.

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES