A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO KEFALONIA

Kefalonia, although very popular as a holiday destination, still has a lot of that feel of an undiscovered gem.

The tourist season, with direct package flights available from the UK, runs from the start of May until the end of October.

May can be an ideal time for exploring Kefalonia’s footpaths, roads and off-road tracks. Refreshed by the winter rain, the grass is green and the fields and hedgerows abundant with colourful flowers that have burst into life while the rest of the island slowly re-awakens from its slumber. The roads, tavernas and beaches are uncrowded, the pace unhurried. About once every four or five years Helios, the Greek sun-god, is a little late arriving and May can be a little less sunny than usual with cool evenings and nights, but usually May is pleasantly warm by day and refreshingly cool of an evening.

Come June the weather settles down and more worshippers of Helios are following his chariot across the sky to pay homage on Greece's glorious beaches.

Kefalonia is no exception: down on the south coast lie the long, sandy beaches of Skala, Lassi and Xi while dotted between are less-known or smaller - but equally glorious – beaches, such as Trapezaki, Agios Tomas, Ai Heli, Lepeda. Secluded coves lay hidden around the island waiting for you to discover them.

Kefalonia has one of the most spectacular beach views in the world - Myrtos Bay. A deep green mountain drops dramatically down to a wide white beach where the ever-changing blue hues of the Mediterranean slowly wash ashore while, in the back-ground, the castle-topped almost-island of Assos clings to Kefalonia by a narrow strip of low land where sits the tranquil hamlet, many of its original buildings still standing. Little ever happens in Assos – and it’s so relaxing watching it not happen.

Fiskardo, long known to the yacht set and now visited by the rich and famous, offers a mix of quaint olde-world charm and luxurious grace for those who seek it, while inland the heights of Mount Aenos and the cavernous depths of Drogarati and Melissani are among the varied delights awaiting those who like to explore and get the most out of their holiday… Ithaka, Levkas and Zakynthos are but a cruise away – look out for the dolphins!

In July and August sleepy villages, where time seems to stand still, suddenly burst into life, adding their own colour and gaiety to the natural beauty of the island: this is festival season and almost every evening there will be a festival somewhere on the island. Days tend to be long and the nights short as the festivals usually start around 21:00 and really come to life around 23:00 - around 02:00 the following morning people will start drifting off.

Although the festivals are part of Greece's long tradition and culture, visitors are quite welcome to join in the festivities, making Kefalonia ideal for mature- minded people who can really appreciate all it has to offer.

During high summer the temperature can often top 40C in the shade during the day and the nights remain warm, so a room with air-conditioning, or a bed-side fan, is a real bonus.

While Corfu to the north, and Zakynthos to the south, have a reputation as popular ‘party’ islands, Kefalonia retains an aura of authenticity and is most suited to visitors able to appreciate the difference. You might find a café serving English food but Kefalonia remains a McDonalds-free zone. Greek food has a high reputation and Kefalonia, being very popular with Greek visitors, offers the traditional favourites as well as tasty local specialities such as kreatopita (Kefalonia Meat Pie).

Greek wine complements Greek cuisine perfectly and Robola, a dry white wine unique to Kefalonia, has such a good reputation among wine connoisseurs that it’s exported around the world. Much less known is the rather good red wine produced on the Palliki peninsular. Both available very inexpensively ‘from the barrel’ with your meal. Enjoy!

September is a very popular month with the British, the days are pleasantly warm, nights pleasantly cool, and the kids are back at school. With luck, the summer drought will end sometime during September or October and we might be blessed with a thunderstorm followed by light, warm rain for three days.

October is very quiet, the weather still pleasant but the nights are drawing in: ideal for long, quiet, romantic evenings in an uncrowded sea-front taverna.

For a Kef weather record chart (thanks to JollyRoger) and daily weather forecasts see: GoingGreek.info - Kefalonia News & Weather

ACCOMMODATION

Traditionally, accommodation in Greece is fairly basic, having evolved from 'village rooms' in private houses, hence very similar to the owner's own accommodation. This is largely still true of the smaller, family run, accommodation available today. For those who desire it, the more recent and larger hotels offer a higher level of amenities, albeit at a higher price.

Self-catering accommodation

This is the most popular and widely-available type of holiday accommodation. A studio for two will usually consist of a single room with twin (i.e. two single) beds and a kitchenette with a small en-suite room comprising the toilet, wash-basin and shower. A studio for three will accommodate an extra bed, this may be a sofa-bed or camp bed. An apartment will be very similar to a studio but with an attached bedroom. Double beds are rare and, when it's hot, that's something to be grateful for.

For the vast majority of people who visit Greece, Greek food is one of the attractions and is best enjoyed by sampling the local tavernas. Thus the 'self catering' kitchen facilities are likely to be very basic, usually a sink unit with drainer, drawer and cupboard, a two-ring electric table-top cooker and a fridge. Kitchens utensils are likely to consist of a large pan, a frying pan (maybe) and a small pan, which is actually the Greek kettle, or ‘briki’, used for making Greek coffee. Also ‘British’ tea.

As the term implies, in self-catering accommodation you’ll need to supply your own consumables, all available locally.

If your studio/apartment has a balcony or terrace you’re likely to find a table and chairs there, otherwise these will be in the main room. You may get an electric kettle / toaster / grill oven, etc, but don’t expect it – and much less a microwave - unless it’s in the brochure description.

Showers are often hand-held and shower curtains are traditionally considered unhygienic. Water is scarce and electricity expensive in Greece and you may find that the water is heated by solar power, although these days most accommodation has mains back-up. Nonetheless, you might find the temperature and pressure are lower between the hours of 17:00-19:00 as this is when most people shower.

On arrival you should find a toilet roll in the shower room, in self-catering accommodation you replace these yourself as and when needed. Don’t forget - put used toilet paper in the bin provided, not down the toilet as this is likely to block the pipes and you will be liable for any expenses incurred. The maid will empty the bin on her visits, or you can empty it yourself into one of the nearby wheelie-bins.

Air-conditioning may be available and may be included in the price or may be an optional extra, payable locally. Maid service and linen change is likely to be twice a week, once on the day you arrive and then 3-4 days later. This will be specified in the brochure description for the accommodation so, if you’re fussy about such things, make sure you check before you book.

Hotel rooms

Hotel rooms and suites tend to be very similar to self-catering rooms but without any kitchen facilities. There may be a fridge in your room although this may be payable locally if you want to use it (as not everyone will). Similarly, air-conditioning, where available, may be included in the price but is often an optional extra, payable locally. Items such as toilet rolls will normally be supplied by the hotel, maid service and linen change may be more frequent than in self-catering accommodation - as always, check the brochure before booking.

Villas

Villas usually offer just about everything you’d find in a private house, including television and DVD/stereo system (but may not include a telephone and computer, so internet access may not be available) and are invariably self-catering. Many come with a private or shared pool and some with a car included (see Car Hire). When booking a villa and car make sure the car is big enough not only for all your party but also for the luggage. Trying to fit five people and all their luggage into a Seicento isn't a great idea (and invalidates the insurance). Maid service usually between 3-7 days a week. As always, check before you book.

Note: While you are occupying the accommodation you are responsible for the contents.If you do break or lose anything please inform the owner, as soon as possible, so that a replacement can be obtained.Take great care of the key as these can be difficult to obtain, necessitating a journey to Argostoli.

ADVICE FOR VISITORS

Hopefully none of this will affect you. However, a few minutes spent before departure and shortly after arrival may save time, money and distress as any of these can occur:

Accidents & Emergencies (see also: Doctors / Health & Safety)

Sometimes happen, both at home and overseas. Before you depart, leave your contact details – name of tour company (if any), airline, where you’re staying – with a friend or relative. In resort, make a note of essential phone numbers: the local medical centre / doctor, taxi drivers and, if you're on a package holiday, the tour company’s emergency phone number. If you’re taking a mobile phone on holiday ensure you have enough credit and the battery charger. Otherwise, buy a 'phone card and know where the nearest phones are. If you have children with you, make sure they have your mobile 'phone number (in case they get lost). If you / one of your party are ill / have an accident, be sure to inform the tour company (if on a package holiday).

Credit Cards

Make a note of their numbers and keep this separate from the cards. If you have more than one, only carry one and leave the other/s in a secure place. Keep a note of the number to contact should they part company from you.

Drugs

Prescription drugs: Generally, it’s best to keep all valuables in your room. If you are taking medication and there is any chance that you may be ill while out, carry enough medication with you, plus a prescription, or at least the name of the medication.

Illegal substances: In Greece, penalties are severe for anyone who uses or traffics illegal substances or who associate with traffickers.

Note: Although available in the UK, codeine is an opiate. It's illegal to bring it in to the country and it's illegal for pharmacists in Greece to dispense it without a prescription. If necessary, the local doctor will be able to prescribe codeine, or an alternative.

European Health Insurance Card - EHIC

See your European Health Insurance Card for details of how the scheme operates. Should you need medical assistance it may be helpful to have this with you, although your holiday insurance may be more useful.

Insurance

If you need any medical treatment it may be useful to have this with you at the time you see the doctor, although local doctors may not have the facilities to accept payment other than in cash. Therefore, should you wish to make a claim on your insurance, you should (try to) obtain a receipt for all consultations / treatments / medications. Some holiday insurance polices exclude ‘dangerous activities’ such as riding motorcycles and scooters, water sports, etc.

Money

Travellers Cheques are the safest way to carry money. Carry only as many as you need for the day, preferably in a money belt or inside pocket, and keep a separate record of all the numbers, as well as the contact details of the issuer. Sign them upon receipt and take your passport when you wish to cash them.

Passports

Only carry your passport when you need it, e.g. to change money. Should you lose your passport it will be easier and quicker to obtain a replacement if you have a note of your passport number.

Tickets

Keep your airline tickets in a safe place. If you lose them inform the tour company / airline a.s.a.p. In an emergency, replacement tickets can usually be issued at the airport but there is normally an admin fee.

Valuables

Greece is, on the whole, a very safe country for residents and visitors. Crime does exist but it’s mainly in certain areas of Athens and in ‘party’ resorts such as Laganas, Zakynthos, where the perpetrators are usually fellow tourists.

Where safety deposit boxes are available it's usually as an optional extra but the small cost could save a larger loss. However, they aren't always available as, on most islands, the crime rate is very low.

Greeks are basically honest and respectful of others’ property and possessions but you can’t always be sure who else has come on holiday so, when you’re out and at night, it’s prudent to keep doors and windows locked.

Finally… in the unlikely event that you lose your passport, wallet, watch… etc, there is a reasonably good chance that it will be handed in, possibly to the local police or, more likely, to the taverna, bar or shop nearest to where it was found. If it can’t be found inform your rep and obtain a police report if you intend to claim on your insurance.

A briki (breekee)

ALCOHOL Greece is famous for at least three national drinks - ouzo, Metaxa and retsina - plus the more secretive tsipouro. And then there's Amstel.

Ouzo is derived from the anise seed and is traditionally served in a small glass, accompanied by a tall glass of water. Sometimes the water is added to the ouzo; sometimes it’s consumed after each sip. Legend has it the best ouzo comes from Mytilene (Lesvos). Tsipouro / raki / grappa is the original version of ouzo – real firewater! Locally produced tsipouro, when available, is very inexpensive - and potent: it can have the strange habit of making the ground rush up to meet you.

Metaxa is the brand name of the leading koniak (cognac) and, according to Alec Gilroy (ex-landlord of the Rovers Return), it’s the “nectar of the gods” (and who am I to disagree?)

Seven Star is the most palatable and expensive of the 'regular' koniaks; Five Star is quite drinkable, Three Star is probably best consumed with a mixer. Look out for the special editions in replicas of ancient painted amphora – a nice gift (especially if for you!).

Retsina is the traditional Greek wine. According to legend, the best retsina comes from the Attica region around Athens. Like ouzo, an acquired taste - however, there are many other very good Greek wines available, some of which, such as Robola, are mentioned in the Wine section.

Fix was the original Greek beer, established in 1864 by a close friend of the newly-appointed King Otto and, for around a hundred years, the only beer widely available in Greece. Going back to the happy, hippy years of the sixties, when long haired, penniless young people fell in to the hippy trail to Constantinople (and ended up on the Greek beaches), Fix was the Greek beer… hence the saying ‘get my daily Fix’ ??

Continental beers started to appear during the sixties and, following the demise of the Fix brewery, Amstel became the premier Greek lager. Although Amstel is now owned by Heineken the Amstel you buy in Greece is brewed in Greece. Amstel, of course, are one of the main sponsors of the Champions League… and very good it is too. Especially when you can relax and watch it with a glass or two of chilled Amstel.

ARGOSTOLI

Argostoli has been the capital and administrative centre of Kefalonia since 1757. Prior to this the island’s capital was nearby Agios Yeorgios, also known simply as Kastro (i.e. the castle of St. George). This fortress had provided a safe haven against marauding invaders for centuries but, when the pirate threat receded, the population started to move down to Argostoli in order to take better advantage of the trading opportunities offered by the sheltered bay off the Gulf of Argostoli where the trading warehouses were situated. As Argostoli prospered the inhabitants petitioned Venice, the colonial power, to make Argostoli the capital of the island and, much to the vexation of rival Lixouri, this request was granted in 1757.

Argostoli prospered and became one of the busiest Greek island ports, exporting raisins and grain and importing mainly Italian clothes and furniture. Argostoli expanded but, in terms of administration, little changed between 1866 and 1999 when, following application of the ‘Kapodistrias Law’ of 1997, communities around the town united to form the Municipality of Argostoli, which included the settlements of Spilia, Helmata, Kompothekrata, Lassi, Minies and ten former communities: Agona, Davgata, Dilinata, Zola, Thinia, Kourouklata, Nifi, Troyiannata, Faraklata and Farsa. The census of 2001 recorded a population of 12,589 in the Argostoli municipality with around 75% of those people living in Argostoli town.

Under ‘Kallikrates Law’, w.e.f. January, 2011, Kefalonia became one large municipality with Argostoli as its capital.

To the east of Argostoli town, at the end of the bay, beneath the aforementioned Castle of St. George, sits the Koutavos Lagoon, a feeding ground for the loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta). Now a waterfowl reserve, the Koutavos Lagoon was once an almost impassable swamp with mosquitoes and malaria rife.

Under the British governor of the island, General Sir Charles James Napier, a wooden bridge was constructed across the lagoon in 1813 by Colonel Charles Philip de Bosset, a Swiss engineer in the employ of the British army. Four years later stone arches were added and, after some 26 years, the entire bridge was rebuilt in stone. In continuous use until 2005, this narrow bridge is now closed to traffic, awaiting renovation by the Greek Ministry of Culture.

The closure of the bridge to vehicles makes for a very pleasant, and virtually flat, walk around the lagoon. Almost halfway along the Drepano Bridge stands a stone obelisk built by the British to celebrate their stay.

At the end of the low, dog-legged bridge a right turn, followed by the first left, leads uphill to the small Agia Barbara church, built into the rock at the end of the narrow gorge. Continuing straight on over the bridge leads shortly to the well-tended British Cemetery and, a little further on, the equally well-tended Greek Orthodox cemetery at Drepano. The contrast in styles is quite noticeable.

The coastal road out of Argostoli to the west was known during the Venetian period as the ‘Piccolo Gyro’ (Piccolo Yiro), a very pleasant (if rather long) circular walk to some superb beaches in the (now very popular) Lassi area. Along the Piccolo Gyro, in the Vlikha area facing Lixouri, lie the ‘Swallow Holes’ of Katovothres, a unique geological phenomenon. Sea water disappears underground and travels under the island, re-emerging some fourteen days later in the Karavomylos area of Sami, having passed through the nearby, and very spectacular, underground Melissani Lake.

The power of this sea water was harnessed, in 1835, to power a mill via a waterwheel. A further water mill, a little nearer to Argostoli, was added in 1859. This mill, with the waterwheel inside the building, is now the popular Thalassomilo (literally ‘sea mill’) café bar and taverna. A recently refurbished (and rather unsympathetically styled) bar-come-nightclub sits on the site of the first mill, next to the once-restored wheel by the swallow holes. The earthquake of 1953 shifted the balance of the island and rendered the mills, as they were, unworkable. You can still see the sea water trickle down the swallow holes.

A little further along the Piccolo Gyro is the Agion Theodoron lighthouse, named after the small adjacent church. More commonly known as the Fanari lighthouse, this too was built during the British occupation, in 1829. The original building was destroyed in the ’53 earthquake and re-built, complete with Doric-style columns, from the original plans (which the British had, of course, filed away somewhere). Around 2002 it was tastefully restored to its former glory.

During World War II Argostoli suffered, as did the rest of Kefalonia, at the hands of the Nazi occupation force. Argostoli was occupied by the more sympathetic Italian forces but when they tried to evacuate by sea, having surrendered to the Allies, they were bombed by the Nazis.

A number of Italian officers were held captive by the Nazis in the Red Villa, almost next to the Fanari lighthouse. They were then marched along the Piccolo Yiro to the junction, on the left. Directly opposite this junction are green railings and inside is a natural horseshoe-shaped rocky pit. Here the Italians were massacred by the Nazis. A plaque on the rock face, in Greek and Italian, commemorates this in-humane event.

If you take the left turn here it leads past the Italian War Memorial, near the brow of the hill, and back down in to the Old Harbour area of Argostoli (short route). Continue past the junction for Lassi. The return route, over the hill between Lassi and Argostoli, is much shorter that the outward journey.

Original buildings that weren’t shattered by German bombing in 1943 were destroyed ten years later in the earthquake that razed virtually all of Kefalonia, apart from the Fiskardo area, to the ground. Very little remains of old Argostoli and any colour photographs you may see of ‘old Argostoli’ are invariably from the film set of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin which, although set largely in Argostoli, was actually filmed in the (much quieter) town of Sami. One of the few remaining buildings is the Kosmetatos Mansion, just off Plateia Valianos, the main square in Argostoli. This is now a small, private museum (open to the public) housing a numismatic collection and sets of lithographs.

A little further along, past the prefecture offices (town hall) on the opposite side, is the Archaeological Museum (generally open from 09:00-15:00, Tuesday-Saturday, not feast days), which contains the most important finds from Kefalonia, including those from the Mycenaean tomb at Tzanata, near Poros.

Across from the Archaeological Museum is the Kefalos Theatre and, up the road to the left of the theatre, the interesting Folklore and Cultural Museum (beneath the Koryialenios Public Library – both open 09:00-14:00, Monday-Friday, not main festival days).

Opposite the Archaeological Museum are the law courts, originally constructed by the British with stone (allegedly) from the Cyclopean site at nearby Krani. Next to the courts is the start of Lithostroto, the pedestrian shopping centre of Argostoli which, along with Plateia Valianos, is ‘the place’ to be in the evening, when casual shoppers mingle with café society in a very pleasant ambience. Along Lithostroto, next to the Catholic Church, is a tiny museum (open some mornings and most evenings) dedicated to the soldiers of the Italian Acqui Division.

A little further along is the Bell Tower. Rebuilt in 1985 to house the original clock mechanism, the ground floor is a pleasant, community-run, street café on Campanile Square providing employment for local people with learning difficulties. A climb to the top of the bell tower is rewarded with views along Lithostroto and across the bay.

To the right of the de Bosset Bridge, heading towards the end of the lagoon, is the new bus station which connects Argostoli with the other towns and some of the villages on the island, as well as with Patras and Athens.

A local produce market is situated just behind the bus station while a sprawling fruit and vegetable market runs along the seafront the other side of the bridge.

Further along, by the Rock Café, loggerhead turtles can often be seen, particularly in the morning when the local fishing boats are selling their catch. Waste scraps tend to be tossed over the side of the boats and the turtles get a free lunch. This part of the seafront is busy with yachts and a few local cruise boats in the summer months, while the big cruise ships have to drop anchor in the bay behind the Port Police offices. The main ferry port, connecting Argostoli with the mainland (via Kyllini) and Zakynthos (also known as Zante) is next to this building. The local Argostoli-Lixouri ferry (twice an hour in summer, once an hour in winter) docks just a little further along.

During the thirty-minute crossing it’s sometimes possible to catch sight of the pod of dolphins that live in the bay. A new pier, servicing the large cruise liners that call in to Argostoli, lies a little further along.

Opposite the Port Police office is a short road leading to the main square, Plateia Valianos. Behind the square are the recently restored Napier Gardens, where the vineyards once stood on the Koutoupi hill.

Although architecturally uninspiring following the post ’53 re-build, Argostoli has a certain charm about it and can manage to be busy but unhurried at the same time. The only ‘serious’ shopping centre on the island, it can be very busy week-day mornings when everyone is going about their daily business, yet it’s still possible to sit and relax outside one of the many coffee shops and enjoy an unhurried frappe while watching the world wander past.

Evenings in Argostoli are even more pleasant. By 14:00 most of the crowds have drifted away and Argostoli goes very quiet: just about everything, bar some tavernas, closes for siesta. Sometime after 17:00, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, the shops will re-open. With all the business completed in the morning – or left until another day – the atmosphere is very unhurried as, later in the evening, people indulge in relaxed retail therapy or meet up in the coffee shops and tavernas to sit and chat the night away.

BANKS

Τράπεζα (tra-peza) is the Greek word for ‘bank’ and will inevitably be on the sign outside the bank. Banking hours may vary slightly from bank to bank but, generally, banks are open from 08:00 until 14:00 Monday to Thursday and from 08:00 until 13:30 on Friday. They are closed on Saturday and Sunday and on, well, Bank Holidays – of which there are several (see Feasts and Festivals). MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards should all work in Greece as in the UK / USA, etc. Debit cards and bank service cards should work if they bear the Cirrus and/or Maestro symbol.

Location of banks: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros

There are ATM facilities in these locations on Kefalonia: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros, Sami (?), Skala (one of which tends to be a bit unreliable).

Don’t forget your PIN !!

BATS, BIRDS & BEES and other flying things

Greece is blessed with a wide variety of flying things, including varieties of birds that were once common in the UK but no longer are. On Kefalonia there’s a water-fowl sanctuary at the end of the Koutavos lagoon in Argostoli, where you’ll find swans, geese and ducks, and it’s quite common to see cormorants close to rocky beaches. You’re also quite likely to see some very big birds of prey overhead, including buzzards. If you drive from Argostoli – Lixouri you’ll pass, at the end of the Argostoli Gulf, a wetland area where it’s common to see various wading birds, particularly when the weather is bad.

Greece is famous for its honey and, especially in rural areas, you might notice collections of small white, wooden cubes (OK, sometimes they might be painted sky blue) – Greek beehives. The bees, even the big black ones (“flying olives”), aren’t a problem. Unless you upset them. Don’t upset the bees!!!

Greek honey is pure, natural and… delicious. You can find Greek honey in the local shops and you might notice that local Kefalonian honey tends to be more expensive than, say, honey from Crete. The less expensive honey tends to be better for pouring; Kefalonian honey is thicker in consistency. When you're out and about you might notice hand-painted signs on gates and walls advertising home-made honey: the word to lookout for is μελι (meli).

You might also come across some bats darting about during early evening. They aren’t especially photogenic in close-up but they’re totally harmless to humans and do a great job devouring the midges, as do the House-Martens and Swallows. It’s quite fascinating to watch these birds swooping down to the pools for water and, if you’re lucky, you might have a nest above your door - of course, they’re totally harmless so please don’t disturb the nests.

See also: Bird Watching, a bit further down.

BEACHES

Life’s a beach! That’s certainly true in Greece where, each year, some 450 beaches - the most in the Mediterranean - win the prestigious Blue Flag award from the independent International Blue Flag co-ordination committee. This guarantees that the beaches meet the minimum standards relating to environmental management and information, water quality, safety and services.

The list of Blue Flag beaches on Kefalonia may vary slightly each year, depending upon the resources of the local council to provide facilities, and there are many other very good beaches around the island which offer similar standards but which aren’t ‘organised’ beaches.

Blue Flag beaches on Kefalonia & Ithaka usually includes:

Agia Barbara, KateliosAragia, PorosAvythos, SvoronataDexa, IthakaLourdasLoutsa, IthakaMakrys Yialos & Platys Yialos, LassiMyrtosPetaniSkalaXi

Koroni, Trapezaki, Agios Tomas, Lepeda, are good examples of 'non-organised' beaches, which are generally just as clean but may lack tourist facilities, i.e. they’re more natural beaches.

BEASTIES

Mosquitoes, unlike French farmers, are still partial to a bit of fresh British meat and no doubt they’ll be pleased to m-eat you. On Kefalonia there isn’t a particular problem with mosquitoes but they do exist and they seem to be attracted to some people more than others. If you know you’re a mozzie magnet see your local GP before your holiday, otherwise there are various preventative potions, including Deet and Autan.

The Greeks use vinegar so, if you don’t mind smelling like a chip shop on a Friday night, that’s an inexpensive option. (Greek vinegar, by the way, is balsamic rather than malt). If you haven’t got a mozzie machine you can get one from the local grocery shops, also refills when needed. These plug in to the mains electric supply in your room and emit a vapour disliked by mozzies. Change the tablet nightly before you plug it in and it acts as a deterrent (don’t forget to unplug it during the day while you’re out!). Alternatively, you can buy plug-in mozzie repellent in liquid form; this might last the whole holiday.

A few years ago I was working on Spetses with a young Swedish rep – lithe long legs, blond hair and blue eyes…

his name was Sven. Oh well! No, actually her name was Maria and she was a very nice girl so I’m sure this is true:

Maria advised her guests, at her Welcome Meeting, to buy a mozzie machine. A few days later one of her guests came to see her. He had followed her advice and bought a mozzie machine but was covered in big red bites. Like most Swedes he spoke English reasonably well, but he couldn’t read English. There was only one word he recognised…

...so he ate the tablet. Don’t keep taking the tablets !!

Jellyfish exist in Greek waters as they do around the UK, but they are rarely a big problem. I have seen some around Kefalonia early in the season, but not frequently. The clear ones are harmless, ones with coloured (e.g. purple) veins sting. A traditional 'relief' is to pee on the wound (but you may have to be a contortionist); ammonia sticks are availably in grocery shops. Otherwise consult a pharmacist, or a doctor.

Sea urchins look something like baby hedgehogs and live on the sea bed – usually, but not always, in rocky areas. When dead and devoid of spikes the shells are rather attractive and surprisingly fragile, hence the spines. These protect live sea urchins and they can be extremely painful if you stand on one. You may be able to squeeze the spine out after soaking with olive oil but it's probably best to seek medical advice. Now for a surprise: you may see a fisherman eating 'sea urchin salad' - a delicacy. At one time Kefalonia had a bit of a reputation for sea urchin salad.

Snakes and such things (herpetology) – see Snake Festival

BIRD WATCHING

For keen bird watchers, Lesvos is generally regarded as the most rewarding Greek island to visit. Kefalonia, although not so abundant in the variety or amount of bird life, shouldn’t disappoint. The Livadi wetland, at the end of the Argostoli Gulf between Argostoli and Lixouri, is well known for wading birds. I’ve read, and heard first-hand, that Katelios is a good base, with a variety of birds locally and fairly easy access to Mount Ainos (4x4 required to reach the summit).

Below is a list of near 200 birds (some migratory) identified on Kefalonia since 1988, compiled from reports by John Jennings; Kevin and Susan Boyd; John & Sue Roberts; John Armstrong (via birdtours.co.uk); A. Vittery; Paul Felton Whitehead (via Friends of the Ionian).

African Collared Dove, Alpine Swift, Aquatic Warbler, Avocet

Barn Swallow, Bittern, Blackbird, Blackcap, Black-eared Wheatear, Black Headed Bunting, Black-headed Gull, Black-headed Wagtail, Black Kite, Black-necked Grebe, Blue-headed Wagtail, Blue Rock Thrush, Black Stork, Black Tern, Black Winged Stilt, Black Woodpecker, Blue Rock Thrush, Blue Tit, Bonelli’s Eagle, Bonelli's Warbler, Broad-billed Sandpiper

Calandra Lark, Cattle Egret, Cetti’s Warbler, Chaffinch, Chiff-chaff, Cirl Bunting, Coal Tit, Collared Dove, Collared Fly-catcher, Common Bittern, Common buzzard, Common Kestrel, Common Pheasant, Common Sandpiper, Common Stonechat, Common Swift, Common Wheateater, Common Whitethroat, Coot, Cormorant, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Crested Tit, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, Cuckoo, Curlew Sandpiper

Dunlin

Eagle Owl, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Eleonora’s Falcon, Eurasian Curlew, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, European Bee-eater, Eurasian Tree Creeper, European Roller, European Serin

Fan-tailed Warbler, Feral Pigeon, Firecrest

Garden Warbler, Garganey, Glossy Ibis, Goldcrest, Goldfinch, Golden Eagle, Golden Oriole, Goshawk, Great Grey Shrike, Great Reed Warbler, Great Snipe, Great Tit, Great White Egret, Greenfinch, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Grey Heron, Grey Plover, Grey Wagtail, Griffon Vulture, Gull-billed Tern

Hawfinch, Hobby, Honey Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Hoopoe, House Martin, House Sparrow

Icterine Warbler, Imperial Eagle

Jay

Kentish Plover, Kestrel, Kingfisher

Lanner Falcon, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Lesser Grey Shrike, Lesser Whitethroat, Levant Sparrowhawk, Levantine Shearwater, Linnet, Little Bittern, Little Crake, Little Egret, Little Grebe, Little Owl, Little Ringed Plover, Little Stint, Long-legged Buzzard

Mallard, Marsh Harrier, Marsh Sandpiper, Meadow Pipit, Mediterranean Gull, Melodious Warbler, Minaculated Lark, Mistle Thrush, Montagu’s Harrier, Moorhen, Mute Swan

Nightingale, Nightjar, Night Heron, Northern Gannet, Northern Wheatear

Olivaceous Warbler, Olive Tree Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Osprey, Oystercatcher

Pallid Swift, Peregrine Falcon, Pied Flycatcher, Purple Heron

Raven, Red Knot, Red-backed Shrike, Red-footed Falcon, Red-rumped Swallow, Red-throated Pipit, Redstart, Reed Warbler, Ringed Plover, Robin, Rock Bunting, Rock Partridge, Rock Sparrow, Rock Thrush, Ruff, Rufous Bush Chat, Rufous Bush Robin

Saker Falcon, Sand Martin, Sandwich Tern, Sardinian Warbler, Scops Owl, Sedge Warbler, Shag, Short-toed Eagle, Short-toed Lark, Short-toed Treecreeper, Siberian Stonechat, Skylark, Sombre Tit, Song Thrush, Spanish Sparrow, Sparrowhawk, Spotted Flycatcher, Squacco Heron, Starling, Stonechat, Subalpine Warbler, Swallow

Tawny Owl, Tawny Pipit, Teal, Temminck's Stint, Tengmalm's Owl, Thrush Nightingale, Tree Creeper (Certhia brachydactyla), Tree Pipit, Turnstone, Turtle Dove

Whiskered Tern, White-backed Woodpecker, Whitethroat, White Wagtail, White-winged Black Tern, Willow Warbler, Winchat, Woodchat Shrike, Wood Pigeon, Wood Sandpiper, Wood Warbler, Wren, Wryneck

Yellow-legged Gull, Yellow–legged Herring Gull, Yellow Wagtail

Zitting Cisticola

Scops owl

their distinctive 'beep' is often heard but they're rarely seen

BOOKS

If you like Greece you might enjoy reading some of these books:

The Greek Myths, by Robert Graves. Definitive interpretation of the classic myths, from the Creation to Odysseas.

Tales of Greek Heroes, by Roger Lancelyn Green. A slightly different interpretation and an easier read, but not as detailed.

The Living Past of Greece, by A.R. and Mary Burn. Fascinating to compare the classical myths with sites that actually exist and can be visited today.

The Greek Adventure, by David Howarth. Sometimes amusing, sometimes horrific, but a very readable account of the Greek War of Independence.

Greek Entanglement, by Brigadier E.C.W. Myers, CBE, DSO. A very readable true account of how a small group of volunteers parachuted in to occupied Greece. An interesting follow up to Captain Corelli, as is…

Memories of a Mountain War, by Kenneth Matthews, a master at the famous Anargyros College before the war, where later taught John Fowles.

The Magus, John Fowles’ classic tale of passion, pretence and intrigue. Inspired by experiences as a master at the Anargyros College on Spetses?

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, by Louis de Bernières. A classic love story set on Kefalonia during the Second World War and the subsequent Greek Civil War. Read it and shed a tear – for the heroine, for the heroes, for humanity.

The Consolation Prize, by Irene Livadopoulos. Touching insight into the Greek way of life and the soul-searching of xenitia - being away from Greece.

My Family and Other Animals, by Gerald Durrell. His childhood adventures on Corfu and the strange creatures – and stranger characters – he encountered.

The Mockery Bird. Another great story from Gerald Durrell, albeit with a serious message, this time set on a mythical island which is very Greek in character.

BUSES

Somewhat mythical but buses do exist – I’ve seen one! Catching one, however, can be like catching a fish… a lot of waiting and only sometimes do you catch one (but you should’ve seen the size of it!) From Argostoli you can get to a variety of places. You may even be able to get back. However, you’ll need to set off fairly early if you want to see or do much while you’re there as, in the rural areas, buses rarely run much after 17:00 and the last buses from Argostoli tend to leave around 14:00

Where they exist, bus stops usually have ΣΤΑΣΗ printed on the sign – otherwise, just put your hand out as the bus approaches. Fares are fairly inexpensive but the service can be erratic. Check return times before you set off and again when you reach your destination – and have enough money for a taxi back... just in case the bus doesn’t turn up. For bus timetables, look on the boards at the bus stop, or the fiction section of the local library. Times vary according to the season… and the whim of the drivers… who incidentally are very skilled. They can speak on a mobile phone in one hand while smoking with the other… not that they do that while they are driving!

On Kefalonia the summer bus service usually starts around the middle of May / early June and runs through until early October. The service tends to start and end with little, if any, prior notice. For more information, contact KTEL Kefalonia on (0030) 26710 22281 or have a look at GoingGreek.info - bus timetable

CAPTAIN CORELLI'S CEPHALONIA

General Metaxa, the Ithaka-born Greek dictator, said “Okhi” (No) to fellow fascist Mussolini’s request to occupy Greece. And thereby ensured a place in history. A small, undeveloped nation - Greece - inflicted the first defeat of World War II on the all-conquering AXIS forces.

However, they returned in numbers: on 30 September, 1941, Kefalonia was occupied by the Italians. However, a significant number of troops didn’t support their fascist leader and, in August 1943, German troops ‘reinforced’ the island. A month later Italy surrendered to the Allies. Having surrendered, over 9,000 Italian soldiers were massacred by the Nazis on Kefalonia.

The Italian war memorial can be found just outside Argostoli on the hill above Katovothres and next to the Catholic church on Lithostroto there’s a small museum dedicated to the soldiers.

Inspired by these inhumane true events, and the dangerously derelict remains of Farsa, destroyed in the ’53 earthquake, Louis de Bernières Captain Corelli’s Mandolin is a literary master-piece. The film, although not as well received, is undoubtedly a beautiful advert for the island of Kefalonia, where it was filmed.

What wasn’t destroyed during the war was mostly razed to the ground during the devastating earthquake of 1953, little is left of Corelli’s Kefalonia.

Fiskardo is famous for its old buildings and Assos, too, has some impressive remains. The old, abandoned village of Farsa, one of the sources of inspiration for the book, can be seen above the 'new' village of the same name.

Old Skala has been largely lost to new tourist villas but the remains of old Valsamata still stand. Look very carefully and you might see the faded sign for the barber's shop on the wall of one of the buildings. Quite substantial remains can be seen at Harakti, on the mountain road between Poros and Sami, and at Kambitsata, in the hills outside Poros. The settlement of Asprogerakas, on the hill track from old Skala to Poros, although reconstructed after the earthquake, gives a good feel of a traditional hill village, as do the small settlements, such as Plagia, on the east coast road from Agia Efimia to Fiskardo.

Between Argostoli and Lassi, on the Piccolo Yiro, you can find the Red Villa (almost next to the recently restored Agion Theodorion lighthouse at Fanari) where many Italian soldiers were imprisoned before being walked up the coast. At the first road junction there is a rocky pit on the right. Peer between the green railings and the bushes and you will see a plaque on the wall, in Greek and Italian. This is where a number of Italians soldiers were massacred. Turn left at this junction and follow the lane as it winds up the hill and you will come to the Italian War Memorial. Continue along this road and you’ll come out by the old harbour in Argostoli.

If you want to check out the main locations used in the film:

Sami: the main set was built around the Kastro Hotel. Recreated as wartime Argostoli, the inspiration was the beautiful Venetian-inspired Corfu Town.

AntiSamos beach: where the landing craft came ashore and where the Italian encampment was based.

Dikhalia village: the main set for the village was built on the site of Dikhalia, between Sami and AntiSamos, an original village lost during the earthquake. Here, in the film, were the houses of Dr Iannis and Drossoula .

Paleo Vlakhata, Karavomylos: here, inland from the duck pond, the firing squad scene was… shot, and where the andartes (resistance) gathered arms.

Agia Fanentes Monastery: high in the hills above Sami, this is the location for the opening and closing festival scenes.

Sia Monastery: the love scene between Corelli and Pelagia was filmed at this old monastery near Myrtos.

Myrtos beach: where La Skala, Captain Corelli’s musical ensemble, frolicked with the imported tarts and where Corelli detonated the old Turkish mine.

Horgota beach: Mandras’ beach, where he fished and where he threw Pelagia in to the sea from the jetty. The jetty was built for the film but was left intact when the crew departed.

CAR HIRE

Hiring a car is an excellent way to discover the hidden charms of Kefalonia for yourself, at your own pace.

There are many car hire companies on the island but during the peak season it can be difficult to obtain a car, especially if you want a particular type for specific dates and booking well in advance is essential if you want a 7 or 9 seater, or an automatic.

You can normally pre-book a car through your holiday company (if travelling on a package holiday) or through your travel agent. Bear in mind that the first holiday brochures are printed well over a year in advance and car hire prices have to be calculated based on the current year's demand and predicted demand for the year ahead.

Demand for holidays, and car hire, may increase or decrease, at little or no notice, due to any number of circumstances such as the mortgage rate, the exchange rate, the price of fuel, terrorism, the weather in the UK, whatever. Prices in resort are based upon actual current demand and may be higher, or lower, than prices quoted a year earlier in the UK.

The advent of the internet has made it much easier to pre-book direct but, before you commit yourself to any booking, read and understand the contractual details and know what is included in the price and what isn’t. If the details aren't clear it might be best to look elsewhere.

Pre-booked cars, whether booked over the internet, on the telephone or via your tour company or travel agent, may seem a bargain but don’t always include, for example, the same insurance as you’d receive if you booked in resort, even if you booked the same car with the same company.

If you're picking the car up at Kefalonia airport and returning it to the airport make sure the model you book is big enough not only for all your party but also for their luggage. Trying to fit five people and all their luggage into a Seicento isn't a great idea (and invalidates the insurance).

As a general rule, the minimum age for hiring a car is 23 years, 25 for larger cars and 4x4 vehicles. You'll need to have held a valid, full, licence for at least a year.

If you don't have a licence issued by an EU member state (e.g. UK) you'll need a valid licence and a valid International Driving Permit. Beware scams!

If you arrive in resort and find that you’ve left your driving licence at home then holders of a UK licence can obtain confirmation of entitlement to drive by contacting the DVLA by phone, the least expensive option is usually an OTE phonecard. After going through an automated menu ("Press button χ for…") you’ll be speaking to a living person and they are invariably helpful and quick. There is a small charge (around five pounds sterling) so you’ll need a credit card and be sure to give them whatever details are on your licence as, if the info you provide doesn’t tally with the info they have on file, they won’t fax the confirmation to your chosen car hire company.

The DVLA phone number is (0044) 870 240 0009. Residents of Northern Ireland call (0044) 845 402 4000

Note: in Greece it is now illegal to smoke in a car if children (under age 13) are present.

Traffic on a roundabout has to stop and give way to traffic entering the roundabout.

Donkeys have right of way on Greek roads.

CATS & DOGS

Cats are as much a part of Greece as ouzo and retsina – similarly, some people love them… and some don’t. Tavernas generally tolerate customers feeding scraps to ‘stray’ cats and dogs… but don’t totally approve of it. Although fairly tame, most are not owned by anyone but are semi-wild. Therefore they are not neutered and litters of kittens and puppies are common. It’s also common for these cats and dogs to carry fleas and diseases – so, if you want to feed them, do it away from your accommodation and don’t allow animals into your room. If scratched or bitten seek medical attention as soon as possible.

CHEMISTS / PHARMACY

The farmakeion, or pharmacy, usually has a red or green cross outside. Open (in summer) from 09:00 until 21:00, six days a week, they may close for siesta in the afternoon and will be closed on the major festival days. Almost invariably, one of the pharmacists will speak at least some English and, for minor health problems, it’s often worth calling in to a pharmacy before consulting a doctor as some drugs only available on prescription in the UK are available over the counter in Greece. However, for e.g. codeine you’ll need a prescription from a doctor in Greece. On Kefalonia you’ll find a farmakeion in: Agia Efimia, Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Peratata, Poros, Sami, Skala, Vlakhata (Lourdas)

CINEMAS

Cinemas in rural Greece are a real treat… usually open air (and only open in the summer), it doesn’t matter what’s showing, the cinema can be more entertaining than the film… chances are, bats fly across the screen as huge birds of prey spot their next meal from high above you. If you’ve never been to an open-air cinema, experience Greek life as it was before the TV, DVD and internet at Sine Anny, Harokapou 16, Argostoli – off the main square, a few blocks up from where the ferry to Lixouri docks. For program information, phone or fax: (0030) 26710 25880

CURR€NCY €XCHANG€

As of January, 2002, the Euro replaced the drachma as the legal unit of currency in Greece and, at some stage; you’ll need to exchange your national currency, e.g. pounds sterling or dollars, etc, for euros as personal cheques drawn on foreign bank accounts can’t be cashed in Greece.

Greece is a very safe country for visitors and many people prefer to bring cash and then change it in resort as this reduces the commission charges. Travellers Cheques remain one of the safest ways to travel with money.

In the UK you can buy these either in sterling or in euros. If you buy euro Travellers Cheques then you buy them at whatever the exchange rate is at that exchange office on that day, i.e. the actual exchange between pounds and euros occurs when you buy them in the UK. If you buy sterling Travellers Cheques then the exchange between pounds and euros occurs when you cash them in Greece. If buying euro notes or euro Travellers Cheques in the UK, the Post Office usually offers a better rate than travel agents or banks.

Generally, the exchange rate in Greece is slightly better than in the UK. Travellers Cheques and bank notes can be exchanged at banks in Greece, also at the main post office in Argostoli and at various exchange offices in resort (usually tour / car hire offices). If you’re staying in a hotel you will probably be able to change money at reception. There are no exchange facilities at Kefalonia airport.

Wherever you change your money in Greece it is the norm for the daily bank exchange rate to apply and the standard bank charge of 2% commission (we all have to earn a living). The actual bank exchange rate is liable to vary from day to day and may vary very slightly from bank to bank.

Visa and MasterCard cards are widely, but not universally, accepted in Greece (American Express less so). You should be able to use them to pay for car hire and tours; some tavernas will also accept payment via credit or debit card, as will some garages and some shops. Not all peripteros (cigarette kiosks) will accept them for cigarettes but the Duty Paid shop at the airport will. You can also use most credit and debit cards to withdraw cash from your bank account via ATMs, located as follows: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros, Sami, Skala.

CUSTOMS & TRADITIONS

The Greeks are a very hospitable and laid-back people who want visitors to their beautiful country to enjoy themselves. To avoid giving offence, respect their customs and beliefs, which are long held and hard won.

Greece is famous for its pretty churches and beautifully decorated monasteries, many of which are open to visitors. Remember and respect the dress code: shoulders, elbows and knees (and tummies) should be covered - men should wear long trousers and women should wear a dress or skirt covering the knees, or trousers (NO shorts and T-shirt!).

Topless is tolerated on the beaches and certain beaches are unofficially OK for going au naturelle - please don’t do either anywhere near a holy place, no matter how isolated it appears, as this offends the locals and arrests aren’t unknown.

Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun, Greeks take siesta between 14:00-17:00. As they tend to work very long hours during the summer they’ll be more hospitable if they aren’t disturbed during this time and, without a doubt, fellow guests won’t appreciate being disturbed late at night or in the early hours.

If you want two of anything, don’t do a ‘V for Victory’ sign as it’s an insult… even worse is a ‘hi-five’. Known as moundza, they date back to the days when citizens would daub the faces of criminals with mud (and other such things) as they were led through the streets.

Maybe that explains the Royal wave… well, the Queen is married to a Greek. Oh, and if you want a strong black Greek coffee without sugar, ask for it ‘sketto’, not ‘skatah’ – that’s something associated with the tooaletta.

In the UK we might have been brought up to show our appreciation of a meal by not leaving any food on our plate. In Greece it’s normal to leave a little, it shows your host that their hospitality was sufficient and that you’re not still hungry. Similarly, don’t drain your glass unless you want no more to drink.

CYCLING

It’s great fun freewheeling down the mountains, the wind in your hair, the scent of pine trees fresh in the air… but Kefalonia is very mountainous and it can be hard, hot work going up the hills and frequent stops for liquid refreshment are essential!

Due to the mountains, the heat and the comparatively large size of Kefalonia (for a Greek island), demand for and supply of bikes for hire is very limited. For serious cyclists there’s Panbike at 72 Lithostroto, Argostoli – phone (0030) 26710 27118 / 6944 784080. The owner, Pantelis Ioannidis, is a former cycling champion of Greece and organises the annual International Cycling Tour of Kefalonia, usually held in early April. More information at Panbike.gr. Organised tours also available from hellenic-cycling.com; at the moment the website information is in Dutch and German only.

DIVING

There are some good dive opportunities on and around Kefalonia, including the wreck of HMS Perseus and Melissani Lake (although for those booking well in advance is necessary).

Aquatic World, based in Agia Efimia, dive in various locations: www.aquatic.gr(0030) 26740 62006

Dive-In-Kefalonia, based in Lassi, also offer various dive sites: www.diveinkefalonia.com(0030) 26710 27589

Fiskardo Nautical & Environmental Club also offer diving opportunities:www.fnec.gr(0030) 26740 41081

DOCTORS & DENTISTS

The Greek word for doctor is ΙΑΤΡΟΣ (pronounced 'yatros') and this, and a red cross, will normally be displayed outside the surgery / medical centre. Surgery hours are normally 08:00 - 13:00, Monday - Friday.

The doctor may be private or may be I.K.A. (Greek N.H.S.). Either way, expect to pay for your consultation and prescription. The European Health Insurance Card (E111 replacement) works well enough for major injuries / illness but not for minor ailments and injuries and is no substitute for adequate travel insurance. Private doctors can usually accept payment by credit/debit card and may be able to liaise directly with your travel insurance company, if needs be. If you have to pay and then reclaim, be sure to keep receipts for all your expenses, including prescriptions and taxi fares, etc. I.K.A. doctors usually have no facility to accept credit cards or medical insurance so will need to be paid in cash, getting a receipt may be a problem. In the event of minor ailments and injuries it's often worth visiting the pharmacy before the doctor as pharmacists are able to dispense a wider variety of medicines than in the U.K.

On Kefalonia you should be able to consult a doctor in: Argostoli, Lixouri, Skala, Poros, Sami and, possibly, Agia Efimia and Fiskardo. Pharmacies can be found in Argostoli, Lixouri, Poros, Skala, Sami and Vlakhata (near Lourdas).

In the event of serious illness / accident, or when the doctor / medical centre is closed, there is an I.K.A. (N.H.S.) hospital in Argostoli which has a 24 hour, 7 day emergency department, where you will be treated for a very small fee (three - five euros). In serious cases they may require your medical insurance details or European Health Insurance Card (but this can usually be sorted out later). Although there are a couple of ambulances on the island they will usually only respond to call outs from a doctor or the police and it's often easier and quicker to make your own way to the hospital, e.g. by taxi.

Emergency dental treatment can be obtained during the morning at the hospital in Argostoli or at private dental practices (e.g. in Argostoli or Poros), normally during the hours of 08:00 - 14:00, Monday - Friday. Some dentists are open evenings and may be able to make a special appointment in the event of severe pain.

DRIVING IN GREECE

Driving in rural Greece is like stepping back in time: the roads uncrowded, the scenery unspoiled. Driving is a joy, not a chore. Here's a short guide on how to enjoy exploring Kef by car:

Most obviously: drive on the right… most Greeks do!

Road signs are usually in Greek and English - but are likely to be hidden behind a bush or a sign for someone's taverna. Road maps look pretty and, sometimes, bear some resemblance to reality. Getting lost is all part of the fun and a great way to find some lovely places you didn't know existed. The locals are friendly so, if you do get lost, just ask for directions.

Petrol is currently a little more expensive than in the UK, petrol stations tend to be pretty plentiful. Usually they are open seven days a week from 08:00 to 21:00 in low season, later in high season. Petrol pumps are rarely self-service, you'll probably find an old guy sat there and, when you pull in, he'll send his wife out to serve you. Petrol is called venzini and the attendants usually speak enough English to get by. They will automatically go for the unleaded pump and petrol is bought by the euro, not by the litre or gallon, so just ask for, e.g. ten euros of venzini rather than ten litres - it saves messing about with loose change. Some petrol stations accept credit cards, but not all, so have enough cash available.

Greek police are pretty laid back but, nevertheless, road rules exist and are, sometimes, enforced.

Parking restrictions do apply, even if most Greeks seem to ignore them. In some places yellow lines exist and it's best not to park on them - about once a summer the police will come round and ticket the cars and you never know when that once-a-summer will be! Apart from that, the general rules are not to park on private property and not to obstruct the coaches. Some accommodation is situated up narrow little lanes that look like farm tracks and coaches need a wide turning circle to get round the tight corners. If a ’plane can't take off because a coach couldn’t get to the airport the police tend to be more upright.

Driving laws are similar to the UK – wearing seat belts is compulsory in cars, crash helmets are compulsory on scooters and motorbikes, drink driving is illegal (the legal limit is slightly lower than in the UK).

On-the-spot fines apply for those contravening the law. When driving, always carry your driving licence and your copy of the hire agreement (contract). In the event of an accident (of any kind): don’t move the vehicles, call a doctor if required, also call the hire company and the police - they will come to the scene and assess the situation (get a copy of the police report). Render any assistance you are qualified to give to any injured parties. Take photos of the scene of the accident, particularly the positions of the vehicles involved.

Apart from driving on the right, the main difference in Greece is at roundabouts. In the UK, when approaching a roundabout you stop and give way to traffic on the roundabout. In Greece, traffic on a roundabout has to stop and give way to traffic entering the roundabout from the right.

On Kefalonia there are few roundabouts you're likely to come across but they do exist: on the main south coast road in to Argostoli there are three roundabouts and the main square in Argostoli is technically a roundabout, although as it's square and not round some people (even the locals) don't recognise it as a roundabout... So, it's safest not to assume right-of-way is the same as it would be in the UK. For example: donkeys have right of way on Greek roads.

Many road junctions aren't marked with white lines and, even where there are white lines, at any junction it's safest to slow down and be prepared to let the other guy go first.

One-way streets exist in Argostoli, Skala, Poros, etc and, during the evenings, some streets are pedestrianised, e.g. Skala main street from the Church down to the main square and the square in Poros.

You may notice that the locals tend to drive towards the centre of the road, probably because in many places there are no pavements. In some ways, Kefalonia is like a National Park: goats, cows, pigs, chickens - and humans - are liable to wander out from behind a bush and across the road at will - often just around a blind bend. Of course, they don't have lights on at night.

When you're out exploring you might notice road signs warning you to beware of deer. There aren't any wild deer but… when they made the road signs, they didn't have any pictures of goats.

Welcome to Greece!

DUTY FREE

Duty Free no longer exists for travel within the EU but you'll find Duty Paid shops at most airports in Greece. As most of the airports tend to be quite small you’ll find the Duty Paid shops are somewhat smaller than at your UK departure airport. Nevertheless, you should be able to buy the more popular wines, spirits, cigarettes and perfumes.

Cigarettes have the price stamped on the packet and will cost the same everywhere in Greece but you may be able to buy some other items less expensively in resort, or in the main town, than at the airport. It may also be more convenient to buy locally and pack your bargains away securely before getting to the airport. The Duty Paid shops normally accept payment by credit/debit card. Provided they are for your own personal consumption, the number of cigarettes you can take back in to the UK is limited only by the airline weight restrictions for your baggage.

ELECTRICITY

Greek electricity comes out of the wall at 220/230 volts so you can run your U.K. hair dryer, CD player and re-charge your mobile 'phone, camcorder, etc, although you’ll almost certainly require a ‘continental adaptor’ (usually available locally). As Greece has few natural power-generating resources electricity is expensive – when you go out turn off non-essential lights and ensure the cooker and the air-conditioning (where applicable) is turned off and any mozzie machines, etc, unplugged.

EARTHQUAKES

Greece is the most earthquake-prone country in Europe and Kefalonia is particularly liable to experience earthquakes, lying just to the east of a major tectonic fault line where the European and Aegean plates meet at a slip boundary, similar to the more infamous San Andreas Fault.

Earthquakes have been a feature of Kefalonia’s life history and the famous hole-in-the-roof of Melissani cave was caused by earthquake activity. Bittlestone’s team propose that Odysseus' Ithaka was actually the present-day Palliki peninsular, once separated from Kefalonia by the narrow Strabo's Channel and long since in-filled by earthquake debris. To date, scientific analysis of the material in “Strabo's Channel” hasn't ruled this out.

One of the most destructive earthquakes to hit Kefalonia occurred between 09 August – 12 August, 1953, during which period the island was struck by a series of four major quakes and numerous smaller ones. At 11:24 local time the island was hit by an earthquake of magnitude of 7.2 on the Richter scale, according to some measurements.

The epicentre was almost directly beneath the southern tip of the island and the plate displacement raised the southern end of the island by some 60 cm (2'), making the sea mills at Katovothres redundant and stabilising the famous moving rock at Kounopetra.

Some 600 of the 125,000 or so islanders were killed. The toll could have been far higher but many had noticed strange occurrences, such as the water levels in the wells rising and falling, and were camped out in olive groves.

Virtually all of the characterful old stone buildings on the island, constructed during Venetian and then British rule, were destroyed, save for the Fiskardo area in the north of the island.

Life on the island prior to the quakes had not been easy and many islanders existed at subsistence level from agriculture and fishing. The devastation was so complete that around 100,000 islanders emigrated following the earthquake, mainly to America, Australia and South Africa.

Ghosts of the old grandeur haunt hillsides around the island, only slowly fading away. Skala, rebuilt on the Mi'Abeli area near the sea, is slowly disappearing among newly raised tourist villas. Old Farsa, a source of inspiration for de Bernières, may be resurrected 'as was' above the new village. In old Valsamata the faded paintwork proclaiming the barber's shop is vaguely legible after all these years. Substantial remains still stand in Harakti, Pyrgi, and Kampitsata, outside Poros.

Following the earthquake international aid promptly arrived, first in practical terms and then in the re-building process. Assos was charmingly rebuilt almost entirely due to the generosity of the French. Koukoumelata's reconstruction was funded by the Vergoti's, an ex-patriot family who had made their fortune in the shipping industry in America.

Curiously re-modelled in the style of a Swiss village, the only stipulation was that the village be well-kept. And it still is.

Elsewhere re-construction had to be more practical and, out of necessity, characterless concrete cubes superseded centuries old stonework. The blandness of the buildings is unseen amidst the abundant natural beauty all around.

Despite the fact that earthquakes cannot be predicted with any accuracy, a denied 'prediction' was irresponsibly circulated in the press that a devastating earthquake would hit Kefalonia on July 30, 2008. The only devastation was to the local economy as Greek tourists were conspicuous by their absence.

Following the 1953 earthquake, building regulations were changed to factor-in earthquakes and all new constructions have to be reinforced with steel and be capable of withstanding major earthquakes.

Earthquakes are a regular feature of life on Kefalonia and are usually over before realisation occurs.

On 14 August, 2003 – fifty years and a day after the Kefalonia earthquake – a strong earthquake hit nearby Levkas. Although fairly substantial damage occurred, no one was killed or seriously injured and no buildings were destroyed. Kefalonia and Ithaka were hardly affected.

In November, 2003, a quake of magnitude 5.3 shook the island, causing only minor damage in Argostoli.

In September, 2005, a 4.9 quake occurred in the sea close to Lixouri. Again, only minor damage occurred.

On 27 August, 2007 a 5.1 quake occurred at sea just to the west of Kefalonia. No serious damage was recorded.

The current tourist boom, seemingly following from the success of Captain Corelli's Mandolin, has rejuvenated the island's economy and many émigrés, and/or their children, have/are returning to the island, harvesting the benefits of their heritage and investing in its future.

FEASTS & FESTIVALS

An important part of Greek life, Kefalonia is richly blessed with festivals, to such an extent that, during July and August, there may be at least one every day somewhere on the island.

The main festivals are:

01 January - Agios Vassillis

Saint Vasillis is the traditional Greek ‘Father Christmas’ and Greek Christmas is traditionally celebrated on 01 January, although not to the extent Christmas is celebrated in the UK. It is still largely a family and religious occasion although a Westernised, commercial version of Christmas, celebrated on 25 December, is fast making inroads into the Greek way of life.

06 January - Epiphany

The Blessing of the Waters, when the hob-goblins are banished back to the underworld. Celebrated widely at harbours and lakes throughout Greece and the Greek world, e.g. at Argostoli and Lixouri on Kefalonia. The priest throws a cross in to the water and the young men of the village dive to retrieve it.

25 March - Independence Day

Celebrates the day Greece finally became independent of the Ottoman Empire.

Variable - Easter

Easter, not Christmas, is the most important event in the Greek Orthodox Christian year and the Easter period is widely celebrated throughout Greece and the Greek world. It’s a very traditional social occasion, often celebrated as a communal village feast with roast lamps on the spit.

As the Orthodox Church use a different calendar to the western Churches the date of Greek Easter doesn’t usually coincide with Easter in the UK:

Easter Sunday

Greece UK24/04/11 24/04/1115/04/12 08/04/1205/05/13 31/03/1220/04/14 20/04/1412/04/15 05/04/1501/05/16 27/03/1616/04/17 16/04/1708/04/18 01/04/1828/04/19 21/04/0919/04/20 12/04/20

01 May - Festival of the Flowers / May Day

Wild flowers are gathered and woven into wreaths, then hung above the front door until the following year to bring good fortune. In some towns and villages, e.g. Poros, flower festivals are held where locally-made wreaths are displayed, usually with a small prize for the best ones.

15 August - Assumption & ‘Festival of the Snakes’

The Assumption celebrates the Virgin Mary. On Kefalonia the Festival of the Snakes, in Markopoulo, is a very big celebration attracting visitors from around the world. The main celebration is on the evening of 14 August, the religious ceremony on 15 August. A similar festival is held at the same time in the village of Arginia.

16 August - Agios Gerasimos

Massively popular with a huge celebration at the Monastery of Ag. Gerasimos on the afternoon and evening of 15 August and the morning of 16 August.

20 October - Agios Gerasimos

Second festival of Gerasimos, patron saint of Kefalonia.

28 October - Okhi Day

The day General Ioannis Metaxas, Ithaka-born Prime Minister of Greece, said ‘No’ to Mussolini’s plan to overrun Greece. The subsequent Italian invasion was repulsed by the small Greek army - the first defeat inflicted upon the fascist during WWII.

25 December - Kristouyenna

Christmas Day, very much a family occasion.

For more information see GoingGreek.info - Kefalonia News

The village Easter feast: although lamb is popular it's not the once-a-week Sunday special as roast beef is in the UK; rather, it's a special Easter treat.

FERRIES

For the adventurous explorer, ferry boats are the traditional way to travel. They are reliable, popular and still comparatively inexpensive. Kefalonia is connected to mainland Greece via ferries from Patras, Kyllini and Astakos, while local ferries connect Kefalonia with Ithaka, Levkas and Zakynthos. Ferries from Italy call into Sami during high season.

There’s also a local service that connects Argostoli with Lixouri. In low season the service is hourly, in high season (June - September) every half an hour. Queue on the quayside, reverse on, leave the car on the car deck and either sit in the air-conditioned lounge or out in the sun. Pay on board, drive straight off. The crossing takes almost thirty minutes and is inexpensive.

Generally, the ship’s name will usually be spelt in Greek and English, e.g. Πηνελόπη / Penelope. However, the pronunciation may be different, e.g., the F/B Πηνελόπη is pronounced Pinny-loppy, not Pen’el’o’pee (Penelope). The Greek word for port or harbour is λιμάνι (limani).

For safety and security, identification may be required before ferry tickets can be purchased.

Ferry company ‘phone numbers:

Four Island FerriesKefalonia - Ithaka - Meganissi – LevkasTel: (0030) 210 412 2530Fax: (0030) 210 411 7066

Ionian FerriesPoros – KylliniArgostoli – Lixouri – PatrasTel: (0030) 210 324 9997Fax: (0030) 210 331 9739

Ionios Meganissi ShippingKefalonia – Ithaka – Meganissi – LevkasTel: (0030) 26450 31805

Strintzis FerriesPoros – KylliniIthaka – Sami – PatrasTel: (0030) 210 422 5000Fax: (0030} 210 417 7807

Taxiarchis FerriesArgostoli – LixouriPessada, Kefalonia – Agios Nikolaos, ZakynthosSami – Ithaka – AstakosTel: (0030) 26710 91280Fax: (0030) 26710 91286

For website links see GoingGreek.info - ferry timetables

FIRES

Large parts of Greece are still forested and the long, hot and dry summers leave the vegetation tinder-dry. Bush fires are not uncommon. Often they are relatively small but big fires do occur, sometimes with deadly consequences. During the summer of 2007 many fires raged throughout Greece, resulting in the death of at least 65 people.

Kefalonia is still largely rural and pleasantly endowed with pine forests, including the native Kefalonia Fir Tree (Abies cephalonica).

In July, 2007 a fire ripped through south-east Kefalonia from Poros to Skala and Katelios. Although no-one was seriously injured at least four homes were totally destroyed, along with crops and livestock, i.e. peoples’ livelihoods. On 27 August, 2009, Colonel Stergios Kotoulas was killed when his ‘plane crashed while fighting a fire in Katelios. Please be very careful with BBQs and cigarettes, etc.

Olive grove on fire, Katelios, June 2007

FISHING

Fishing’s a very popular pastime in the UK and a fair few people bring their rod and tackle with them on holiday. Fishing is also a popular pastime in Greece but I’ve never come across any organised fishing trips. Nor have I come across any organised freshwater fishing sites and, on Kefalonia, there are no permanently flowing rivers and no fishable ponds. You may see locals fishing from the quayside in Argostoli and Poros, etc, but Greeks tend to go more for small boats and big nets rather than rod and line. There are any number of licensed fishing caiques but – currently - it’s illegal to take out unregistered ‘passengers’. This is likely to change in the near future.

Of course, it's possible to hire small motorboats and some people do manage to catch sizeable fish from the shore. If you do catch anything worth eating I’m sure one of the local tavernas will be happy to cook it for you for a small charge.

FRAPPÉ

Shaken or stirred, frappé is cool – put a spoonful of instant coffee into a beaker, add sugar and milk according to taste, pour in a centimetre or so of cold water, seal the top and shake well. Or use an electric frappé mixer. Toss in a couple of ice-cubes and top up with chilled water. A Greek speciality, very refreshing on a hot summer day.

GECKOS

If you’re lucky you might find a gecko or lizard in your room – they’re pretty similar but geckos have the big, round eyes, pinky-brown skin and come out in the evening whereas lizards tend to be greener, slimmer and sun themselves during the day. They are totally harmless and Greeks think it lucky to have one in the house as they catch and eat flies.

GREECE

At the beginning of time the Immortals, the gods and goddesses of Greece, fought against the Cyclops, the mighty one-eyed giants. With the aid of the Titans, the Immortals won and the Cyclops were banished. Zeus became ruler of all of the mortal world and chief among the gods. One of his brothers, Poseidon, ruled the oceans while another brother, Hades, ruled the under-world.

Great civilisations came and went. While Minos was busy ruling Crete his wife, Persephae, was seducing a beautiful black bull, the mutant offspring was the mighty Minotaur. Every seven years the Athenians were forced to send the cream of their youth to Crete, never to be seen again. Theseus, lost son of the king of Athens, killed the beast and ran off with Minos’ daughter, Ariadne, only to leave her to Dionysios – he who invented wine and travelled around the Greek world indulging in drunken orgies with his groupies.

When the volcano on Santorini erupted the tidal wave wiped out the Minoan civilisation and mighty Mycenae picked up the crown. Mycenae was the kingdom of Agamemnon, his captive wife Klytaemnestra, her beautiful sister, Helen, and the man she was forced to marry, Menelaus, brother of Agamemnon. When Helen eloped with her true love, Paris, she left behind her daughter, Ermione, but took with her much of Menelaus’ treasure. The deep desire to re-unite Menelaus with Helen (or, maybe, with his wealth) led to the epic Trojan War. Eventually Mycenae defeated Troy but the long campaign led to Mycenae’s demise.

Two other great city-states emerged, each vying for supremacy: Sparta and Athens. Life for the people of Sparta was, well, spartan… the leaders relied not upon great city walls for protection but upon the fighting prowess of the Spartans.

Athens had dabbled with various types of leader, from dictator to democrat. One of the very greatest was Pericles, a very interesting character. The son of a leading aristocrat, he was a champion of democracy. A great orator, he led Athens to victory against the Persian invaders and after this he secured the finances, commissioned the great public works and built the classical city of Athens as we now know it.

Then a new superpower emerged. Philip of Makedon defeated all the Greek city states and his son, the great Alexander, conquered virtually all the (then) known

world, from the Mediterranean into India. Upon his untimely death his massive empire split into three and the Ptolemies ruled Egypt until the death of Kleopatra.

After Alexander the mighty Roman army came, saw and conquered the Greek world. Kleopatra tried to save Egypt from subjugation by seducing Julius Caesar. He was murdered by Brutus so she took Markos Antonis as her lover but his fleet was defeated at nearby Levkada and Kleopatra committed suicide rather than yield to Rome.

Eventually the Roman Empire expanded so much that it became unmanageable and split in two, the Holy Roman Empire and the Eastern Empire, based in the small Greek town of Byzantion. Finally the Roman Empire disintegrated but the Byzantine Empire flourished for another seven hundred years until the fall of ‘the city’ of Constantinople (as Byzantion was re-named, in honour of St. Constantine) to the Ottomans Turks, who renamed it Istanbul [probably a corruption of the Greek ee stin poli (‘to the city’)] - the cry when ‘the city’ was being attacked.

The Ottomans occupied virtually all of mainland Greece and the islands. However, apart from short occupations, they couldn’t hold the Ionian islands against the Venetians. The Ionian islanders probably fared better under the Venetians than their fellow countrymen did under the Turks, the 1821 War of Independence was fought to rid Greece of the rotting Ottoman empire.

Only some thirty years later did the Ionian islands, by then administered by the British, achieve unification with the new Greek state.

Having remained neutral during the First World War, Greece was forced to declare itself on the side of the Allies when invaded by Italy in 1943. The small Greek army inflicted the first defeat of the war upon the Axis troops and suffered brutal repression by Nazi Germany as a result. After the war a debilitating civil war erupted. The American-funded Marshall Plan effectively ended the civil war but the price was that, for many years, the Greek government had to get its decisions approved by America.

In 1967 a right-wing military junta seized control from the democratically elected government and remained in power until 1974, when popular opinion forced free elections to be resumed. Since then the Greek government has regularly been involved in various allegations of sleaze and corruption – just the kind of everyday scandal that happens in every free parliamentary democracy!

GREEK MAYBE TIME

You might hear time referred to as, e.g. nine o'clock GMT - don't be confused, Greece isn't in the Greenwich Mean Time zone it's in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone.

Hence Greece is two hours ahead of the UK. And about fifty years behind - which is part of its charm. Time keeping isn't a great priority in Greece and GMT humorously refers to Greek Maybe Time... maybe nine o'clock, maybe ten o'clock. Maybe today... maybe tomorrow... maybe next week. Maybe in three months. It’s part of the relaxed Greek way of life and, until recently, few Greeks wore watches.

Buses run to Greek Maybe Time, so be at the bus stop a good fifteen minutes before the scheduled time and be prepared to wait a good thirty minutes after. Ferries, on the other hand, tend to be pretty punctual.

Like the UK, Greece adopts daylight saving hours so, in March, the clocks spring forward an hour and in October the clocks fall back an hour. These days the change-over days seem to coincide with the UK dates, thus Greece is always two hours ahead.

It’s a good idea to change the time on your watch during the flight and, if you have any other time sensitive devices, alter the time on those, too. I remember one couple who used their mobile ’phone as an alarm but had forgotten to change the time on it – and missed a boat as a result.

When you're connected to the 'net, this is a good site for checking the time in Greece: http://time.is/Greece

HEALTH & SAFETY

It’s great to visit different countries, to see different scenery, to experience a different lifestyle – and to see the sun! Naturally, different countries have different cultures, values and standards and you have to take the rough with the smooth. This applies to all facets of life, including Health & Safety. Bear a few things in mind and you should have a safe and enjoyable holiday.

Balconies

It’s great to have a balcony but, every year, someone suffers serious injury falling from a balcony so bear in mind that the balcony wall or railings are a retaining feature, not a seat nor a climbing frame.

Beaches

The sea, sand and sun are among the things that bring most of us to Greece but be aware of the potential dangers: There may or may not be a lifeguard, children and non-swimmers should always be supervised. Check if there’s a flag warning system and, if so, check what the flags mean. Keep within your depth and always swim parallel to the shore, not out to sea. Avoid areas used for water-sports and don’t swim at night, nor if the beach is deserted. Avoid alcohol and don’t swim for at least one hour after eating. Don’t forget the sun protection!

Electrics

If you have any problems with electrical items in your accommodation don’t attempt repairs – contact your tour company (if on a package holiday) or the owner.

Fire

In the event of a fire evacuate the building quickly but calmly. Alert other guests and neighbours by shouting “FIRE”. Be aware that what is a fairly simple route in the daylight may be more difficult in the dark. Don’t smoke in bed and ensure that the cooker and appliances such as mozzie machines, irons, etc, are always switched off when not in use. Don’t attempt to fight the fire unless you have to in order to evacuate.

Gas

Gas appliances of any kind aren’t commonly found in tourist accommodation in Greece. If you have any kind of gas appliance in your room(s) always leave a nearby window open and turn off all gas appliances when not in use, and at night.

Glass

Safety glass is far less common in Greece than the UK, particularly in older properties. Take particular care when walking through patio doors, etc, and don’t lean on, bang or slam glass doors and windows, etc.

Greek Cross Code

Greece has a wonderful variety of wildlife but, as there aren’t any zebras, Greek drivers ignore zebra crossings (where they exist). As we drive on the right in Greece (mostly), look Left, Right, Left before you step onto the road.

Lifts

Unlike the UK, not all lifts in Greece have internal doors. Stand away from the doors and don’t allow children to use lifts unsupervised. Do not use lifts in the event of fire.

Sights & Sites

In ancient times Health & Safety meant praying and sacrificing to the gods – not anti-slip flooring and endless audits. Since the classical period the land has been left pretty much to the ravages of time, nature and invaders. Uneven, crumbling paths and sheer drops are not uncommon. Supervise children, the elderly and infirm and don’t take chances. Footwear with anti-slip soles is recommended for walking and ‘exploring’.

Swimming pools

Check out the Pool Safety notices before using a pool. Pools rarely have a lifeguard on duty so children and non-swimmers should be supervised at all times. Always know which is the shallow end and never dive into a pool. Don’t use pools under the influence of drink or drugs and observe the hours of use as cleaning chemicals may be pumped through the pools at night.

Walking

Take some water, a bit of cash and, ideally, a mobile phone and local contact phone numbers. Always tell someone where you’re going and what time you expect to return.

Wear something white at night / Take a torch

In rural Greece illumination is mostly provided by the moon, stars and tavernas – street lighting is something the townsfolk have. As are pavements, which are pretty rare out in the sticks. When you go out at night (or if you’ll be returning after dark), wear something white and/or take a torch – give car drivers some chance to see you. Where you have to walk in the road, walk in single file on the left-hand side of the road so you can see oncoming traffic.

HMS PERSEUS

At 22:00 on the night of 6 December, 1941, HMS Perseus, a British Parthian-class submarine on patrol in the Ionian Sea, hit an Italian mine and sank. All the listed crew were lost. And another Kefalonia legend was born.

Local fishermen from Mavrata rescued a British sailor, 31 year old Leading Stoker John Capes, just off the coast near Katelios and the local population hid him from the Italian and Nazi occupying forces, in various village houses around Kefalonia, for eighteen months until he was able to escape back to the UK.

On return to the UK, Capes’ story was largely discounted as he wasn't on the crew list for the Perseus. According to Capes, he had missed his ship in Alexandria and was hitching a lift back to Blighty on the Perseus when it sank.

Although the submarines were equipped with escape apparatus it was generally believed that no-one could survive such an incident. According to some sources he was awarded the British Empire Medal. Capes died in 1985, aged 75.

In 1997 a team of Greek divers led by Kostas Thoktarides discovered the wreck of the Perseus on the seabed, some 52m down, between Kefalonia and Zakynthos. The description Capes had provided matched the wreck, down to the rum flask he dropped at the bottom of the escape hatch, having taken one last swig before attempting his escape.

Following Captain Corelli’s Mandolin there was talk of a Perseus film but, to date, nothing seems to have come of it.

The wreck of HMS Perseus has been declared an official war grave, a memorial stands in Poros near the Hotel Anastazia.

It may now be possible for experienced divers to undertake organised dives to the wreck, contact the local dive schools.

IONIAN ISLANDS

The Ionian Islands, primarily consisting of

Κέρκυρα (Kerkyra, a.k.a. Corfu)Παξοί (Paxi, a.k.a. Paxos)Λευκάδα (Levkada, a.k.a. Levkas)Ιθάκη (Ithaki, a.k.a. Ithaca)Κεφαλονιά (variety of spellings, usually Kefalonia)Ζάκυνθος (Zakynthos, a.k.a. Zante)Κύθηρα (Kythira, a.k.a. Cerigo)

plus smaller near by islands (such as Anti-Paxi, Meganisi), are known in Greek as the Επτάνησα (Eptanisa), literally the Seven Islands – in the same way the as Dodecanese are the Twelve Islands (plus about 151 smaller islands).

Corfu, Paxos, Levkas, Ithaka, Kefalonia & Zakynthos form a chain down the western coast of mainland Greece, and are a unit of the Greek administrative system, while Kythira, AntiKythira and some smaller islands round-about are geographically and administratively separate, being situated to the south of Greece between the Peloponnese (Pelop’s Island) and Crete.

I’m not sure how they came about the name Ionian Islands as Ionia refers to the ancient Greek settlement around Smyrna, present day Izmir, in what is now Turkey. The original Ionic settlers, according to Greek history, came from the Attica area (around Athens) and there’s no known connection with the Eptanisa. The Ionian League, Ionian Revolt, Ionian School of philosophers, Ionic architecture and Ionic / Ionian variation of ancient Greek language relate to ancient Ionia, not the ‘Ionian Islands’.

INTERNET / INTERNET CAFÉS

Just about everywhere on Kefalonia is now on ADSL and most towns and tourist resorts will have at least one internet café where you can surf the web and use email. The maximum (theoretical) download speed you'll get on Kef is 24 Mbps, most likely it will be a bit less than 2 Mbps. As with all shared computers everywhere, it’s best not to use internet cafes for e.g. internet banking. On Kefalonia you should be able to find public internet access cafes in:

Argostoli, Lassi, Lakithra, Lourdas, Katelios, Skala, Poros, Sami, Agia Efimia, Fiskardo, Assos, Lixouri, etc.

A number of bars and some accommodations offer free Wi-fi internet access to customers / guests, free public Wi-fi access is planned in some areas of the island and may already be accessible in others.

ITHAKA

Odysseus’ legendary homeland, Ithaka, is almost two very small islands: a high, narrow ridge makes them one. Largely untouched by package tourism (perhaps due to a lack of sandy beaches and an airport), and is a good destination for walkers and anyone interested in Greek mythology and/or tranquillity.

Of particular interest may be the ‘Odysseus sites’ – the Grotto of the Nymphs (sometimes closed for safety reasons) and the Arethoúsa spring.

Ancient Alalkomenae was declared the site of Odysseus castle when it was excavated by Schleimann, the great amateur archaeologist who discovered Troy and Mycenae.

However, more recent archaeological finds suggest that his castle was more likely situated near Exogi, just outside Stavrós, where remains of a substantial palace have been discovered.

The Korax (raven), a large crag over the Arethoúsa spring, matches Homer’s description of the place where Odysseus met his swineherd, Eumaeus, on his return to his homeland. In high summer the spring is down to a trickle but is still a pleasant 90 minute walk along a sign-posted track south of Vathi.

The Grotto of the Nymphs (Marmarospíli) is about 2.5km south-west of Vathi. According to local legend, this is the place where Odysseus hid his treasure upon his return to Ithaki.

A theory by a Greek historian, Nikolas G Livadas, in his book “Odysseus’ Ithaka”, that the Paliki peninsular, Kefalonia, was ancient Ithaka is currently being propounded by Bittlestone in “Odysseus Unbound” but, so far, without any conclusive results. Naturally, the people of Ithaka aren’t surprised.

Váthi, on the south-east coast, is the capital and is situated on a deep bay (in Greek, ‘váthi’ means deep, hence ‘bathysphere’, a deep water submersible). A small town with two small museums, Váthi is very pleasant to explore as many of the old houses were faithfully repaired or rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake which destroyed most of Kefalonia. Váthi is the main port, serving ferries plying between Kefalonia and Patras and, in the summer months, attracts yachts and cruise boats.

Stavrós, roughly in the centre of the north ‘island’, is a small village with an attractive church, small museum and a zakharoplasteion that serves rovani, a local sweet delicacy – delicious with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream!

On the north-east coast lay the tiny, traditional villages of Frikes, with its three old windmills still standing, and Kioni, a beautiful little fishing harbour with about five sea-front tavernas and a tiny beach, all surrounded by verdant trees.

It’s quite easy to make your own way to Ithaka if you have transport. The ferry normally leaves Sami at 08:30 but it’s best to check in advance. Aim to arrive around 08:00 as you’ll need to buy tickets (ticket office opposite the ferry) and get the car on the ferry. It’s possible to go as a foot passenger but there’s little to nothing at PisoAetos, i.e. don’t count on a bus or taxi being there. The ferry normally leaves PisoAetos on the return journey at 15:30, check when you buy the tickets / on the ferry. If you're making your own way, bear in mind that there will likely be two ferries in Sami port: the big one at the end of the ‘pier’ is bound for Patras. Along the seafront to the left is the smaller Ithaka ferry.

If you don’t have transport there are guided coach tours available from most tour offices, as well as a couple of boat trips: the Sami Star from Sami and Captain Vangellis’ boat from Skala and Poros.

IT'S ALL GREEK TO ME!

Ancient Greece has given us a large part of our alphabet (a word itself derived from the first two letters of the Greek alphabet: alpha, beta) and a number of everyday words, such as: aphrodisiac, arithmetic, lexicon, police. Greek is a fairly difficult language to learn and the locals will be impressed if you manage a few basic words.

Here’s a very basic beginner’s guide to Greek:

English GreekCheers yiamashello (polite / plural) yiasashello (informal & singular) yiasougoodbye (as above) yiasou / yiasasgoodbye (final) adioabbreviation of yiasou/sas yahplease para-ka-lorthank you ev-kha-ristopardon sig-noh-meegood morning kali-mairagood afternoon kal-o a-po-yevmagood evening kali-spairagood night kali-neektawhat is your name? pos say lenaymy name is may lenayhow are you? (pl. / formal) tee kanetayhow are you? (sing. / inf.) tee kaneeseI’m fine kala or mia haraand (how are) you? esseepleased to meet you hairo poleewhere is pooh eenaythe bank ee tra-pezathe doctor oh yatrosthe cigarette kiosk toe peripterothe toilet ee too-a-lettaslowly, slowly seegar, seegar

it's no problem kan-ena provlemaI don’t know then kseroI don’t understand then katalavenodo you speak English? milartay Anglikaryes nayno okhione ena / miatwo dee-othree tree-afour tesserafive pendaysix exeeseven eftaeight oktonine enyaten dekatwenty eekoseethirty tree-andaforty sarandafifty penindaevro evropetrol venzeeneeleft aristeraright dexiastraight on eeseeaI am airgo eemayyou are essee eesayhe / she/ it is avtos / avtee ./ avtoe eenaywe are emees eemasstayyou are esees eestastaythey are avtee / avtes / avtah eenay

Yiasou / yassas mean both hello and goodbye. Adio means goodbye but only e.g. at the end of your holiday.

Kalispera / kalinikta are used as we would, i.e. good evening and hello to you / good night to you, I’m going.

Parakalor means please but, if you say 'efkharisto' to, e.g. a waiter, they will likely reply 'parakalor', as in "I am pleased (to be of service)" i.e. "It’s my pleasure (to serve you)".

Greek words, as in many languages (such as French) have a gender. A general (and very basic) rule is that if a word (singular form) ends in ‘a’ it’s female, so you’d say e.g. “mia bierra” for a beer but “ena frappé” for a chilled coffee.

Don't worry if you don't get it quite right. I remember one young couple, first time to Greece and loving it, amused the locals by waving at them every morning and wishing them "kalamari" (squid).

And one accommodation owner assured me, in English, that all her rooms were self-catering and had a chicken.

JUAN de FUCA

The mists of time have obscured some of the facts and, for some two hundred and fifty years or more, there were doubts in the western world as to whether Juan de Fuca ever actually existed. Although nothing is known about his early life it’s now generally accepted that Juan de Fuca was Ioánnis Fokás, born in Valeriano, Kefalonia in 1536 to Tzakob, son of Emmanuel Fokás.

The Fokás family tree stretches back to Constantinople, from where Emmanuel and his brother, Andronicus, fled after its fall to the Ottoman Turks in 1453. Both reached the Peloponnese; Andronikos settled there whereas Emmanuel moved to Kefalonia in 1470, settling in Valeriano.

During this period Spain and Italy enjoyed good trading arrangements and it was common for young men from Kefalonia to find employment in one of the merchant navies, as Ioannis Fokás did aged around 19. It’s likely that he adapted his name to make it more easily acceptable to his new employers and colleagues. His skills as a mariner were brought to the attention of Philip II, King of Spain, who appointed him Pilot of the Spanish navy in the West Indies and Fokás spent some thirty years sailing between there and China.

At the command of the Viceroy of New Spain (i.e. Mexico), Fokás undertook two exploratory voyages to find the fabled Northwest Passage, known as the Strait of Anian, a sea route allegedly connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans (actually the channel between Vancouver Island and Canada).

The first attempt, in 1592, faired badly as the troops on board the three ships mutinied against their Captain. The second attempt faired much better and Fokás returned to Mexico with tales of discovering an island populated by savages but rich in treasure. Feted as a hero by the Viceroy he received none of the promised rewards and instead was advised to claim his reward from the King of Spain.

At the Spanish court Fokás was again feted as a hero but, again, received no reward for his discovery. After forty years of high office in the Spanish navy, Fokás, disillusioned with Spain, retired to his native village of Valeriano where he passed away in 1602.

There has long been controversy regarding Fokás. Captain Cook denied the existence of the strait and, until 1860, some denied that Fokás had existed. It seems there is no mention of Juan de Fuca / Ioannis Fokás in the Spanish archives of that period and no record of such expeditions.

Around 1859 an American researcher, Alexander S Taylor confirmed, with evidence gathered by the American Consul to the Ionian Islands, that Ioannis Fokás existed and was well remembered on Kefalonia.

The strait, as described by Fokás, was re-discovered by an Englishman, Captain Charles William Barkley, who named it the Strait of Juan de Fuca in honour of Fokás. A tectonic plate lying under much of the coastline explored by Fokás is similarly named the Juan de Fuca Plate in his honour.

KAYAKING

Monte Nero Activities offer daily sea kayaking tours along various stretches of the Kefalonian coastline. All abilities catered for, more info on (0030) 6934 010 400 or at www.monte-nero-activities.com

KATELIOS

Katelios, on the south-west coast of Kefalonia, was little more than a hamlet until about twenty years ago, when tourists first discovered the beauty and tranquillity offered by the sandy beach and flat farming land in the plain behind. A couple of tavernas and a small collection of fishermen’s huts were dotted about behind the tiny harbour area, known as Kato Katelios, while the local population, such as it was, lived in Ano Katelios, a small settlement at the foot of the hill, or in the nearby hill villages surrounding the wide valley on three sides.

Popular among the more mobile citizens of Argostoli for the quality of its seafood, Katelios has quietly grown over the last two decades as more people discover its delights and return year after year. For although the fertile farming land is slowly sprouting new tourist accommodation, Katelios retains its original hospitality and charm and, although only some seven kilometres from lively Skala, has a character all of its own.

At the western end of Mounda Bay, and separated from Mounda beach by a rocky outcrop, Katelios has been inhabited over a long period of time. At nearby Mavrata there is (allegedly) a Mycenaean tomb and Roman remains going back some 2,000 years can be found just behind Agia Barbara beach. Although Mounda Bay is very shallow there is evidence that Katelios was a port and trading centre during the Roman and Venetian periods, witnessed by the remains of an old mole near the present fishermen’s harbour.

During the Second World War the British submarine HMS Perseus sank in the straits between Kefalonia and Zakynthos after striking a mine. The only survivor, John Capes, was rescued by fishermen from nearby Mavrata.

Katelios, like virtually all of Kefalonia, was all but destroyed during the earthquake of 1953. Remains of the old church exist in Ano Katelios and, despite growing popularity as a tourist resort, Katelios is still largely an active agricultural area with fertile soil irrigated by streams from the mountains above. These streams powered water-mills from the Roman period until quite recently and there is a very pleasant walk, taking in the remains, down from Pastra to Katelios.

Katelios remains very much a rural village so, although there are a couple of off-beach bars offering sports channels on wide-screen television, you won’t find the usual tourist trappings.

There’s a bus to Skala, Poros and Argostoli (but not on Sundays and ‘Bank Holidays’), also a water-bus to Skala and Poros. There’s a good choice of tavernas and bars, a choice of tours and car hire, three mini-markets, several gift shops and exchange facilities – but no pharmacy, doctor, hospital or ATM machines.

Although much of the tourist accommodation in Katelios is block-booked by British package tour companies there is also a variety of good independent accommodation available, see the GoingGreek.info Katelios map & accommodation listing

Katelios will particularly appeal to mature-minded people seeking a relaxing holiday in a peaceful, rural setting.

KEFALONIA - a brief history

Kefalonia is reputedly named after Kephalos, son of Hermes. When he rejected the amorous advances of Hera (wife of omnipotent Zeus) she sowed doubts in his mind about the fidelity of his wife, Procis. With the aid of Hera he wooed Procis – in disguise. After much courting and lavishing of expensive gifts, he won her heart (or whatever). He then revealed himself to Procis, who was deeply upset and confused. With the aid of Artemis, Procis was reconciled with Kephalos, only to suspect an affair between he and Hera. In her jealousy she took to following him and, while hiding in a bush when he was out hunting, was accidentally shot and killed by Kephalos.

According to local legend, the great Odysseus was a native of Kefalonia and the small island of Ithaca was his kingdom. Odysseus fought with the Mycenaeans at Troy and many remains from the Mycenaean age have been found on Kefalonia.

After the decline of Mycenae, Kefalonia played a part in the Persian Wars and in the Peloponnesian Wars between Corinth and Athens. In 218 BC Kefalonia rallied against the invasion threat from Philip V of Macedonia but succumbed, in 187 BC, to the Roman occupation, which lasted until 330 AD.

Kefalonia was part of the (Greek led) Byzantium empire from 330 AD until 1082 when the Norman robber-baron, Guiscard, plundered the island. Kefalonia then fell into the hands of the Franks (a generic term for the succession of invaders from France and then Italy), notably the Orsini family. The Orsinis treated Kefalonia as part of their private estate and, undoubtedly, were themselves involved in piracy. Thomas-Nikolaos Orsini ceded the lordship of Kefalonia to his brother, John Orsini II, before murdering his uncle and usurping the throne of Epirus (a region on nearby mainland Greece). John Orsini II then murdered his brother and kept the throne for himself. He then secured marriage into the ruling family of Byzantium, the Palaiologos – a fatal mistake as his wife poisoned him.

Kefalonia became very popular among wealthy young men during the rule of Francesca, ‘Queen of the Romans’, due to the many beautiful women that resided in her court.

After Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine Empire, fell in 1453, the Ottoman Turks captured most of Greece including, in 1479, Kefalonia. The bloody Ahmed Pasha decapitated the nobles, burnt the castle and took the peasants for slavery to

Constantinople, where the Sultan forced the men to marry Ethiopian women, and vice-versa, in order to breed mixed-race slaves. In 1500 the Venetians, aided by Spain, recaptured the island and, except for a few short incursions, held on to it until 1797 when Napoleon’s French army liberated the Ionian islands. The “libro ‘d’oro”, the “golden book” containing the names of all the Ionian nobility, was publicly burned amid general public rejoicing. However, only a year later the French were replaced by a Russian-Turkish alliance which lasted until 1807, when the French regained control. After only two years the French were forced out again, this time by the British, who established control of the Ionian islands.

The War of Independence against the Ottoman empire, which ruled most of Greece, commenced in 1821 and the Ionian islands were a convenient safe haven for many leading figures in the Greek cause. Lord Byron based himself on Kefalonia before his fateful move to Messalonghi and the island inspired some of his best poetry. Like Byron, the first British Governor of Kefalonia, Sir Charles Napier, was a benign philhellene who supported the cause of Greek independence from Ottoman rule. The formation of the Greek state in 1832 and the despotic rule of Tom Maitland and then Howard Douglas led to demands for unification with the new Greek state. The French Revolution of 1848 intensified demands, which were finally granted in 1864.

When Mussolini, the Italian fascist leader, demanded free passage for Italian troops through Greece at the start of the second World War, the refusal by the Prime Minister of Greece, General Metaxas (a native of Ithaka), led to the invasion of Greece by Italian troops. The defeat of this invasion force by the smaller Greek army was the first defeat inflicted on the AXIS forces during the war by Allied troops. The subsequent occupation of Greece by German troops resulted in typical Nazi terror. During this period the Ionian islands were occupied by mainly Italian forces and the refusal by non-fascist Italians to continue the war led to their massacre by the Nazis. The novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin contains a superb account.

For the next fifty years Kefalonia remained a backwater, largely unknown until relatively recently and it remains a relaxed island, ideal for exploring. Enjoy!

KEFALONIA – sight-seeing

Agia Efimia

A lovely little fishing village north of Sami, part of its charm is that it isn’t as obviously as attractive, or as affluent, as Fiskardo. Although it livens up in high season, tourism tends to be very low-key with few main-stream package tour operators and hence it retains its authentic village atmosphere. Despite the lack of a ‘good’ beach, it’s ideal for anyone wanting a relaxing holiday in a genuine Greek coastal village.

Agios Kyriakis

Beneath the isolated village of Zola lays the long Agios Kyriakis beach. Not one of the island’s greatest but, at the western end, is a tiny fishing harbour and an old, very traditional, psarotaverna (fish taverna), fish served is caught by the owner's boat. The tracks down to Agia Kyriaki have only recently been surfaced and I suspect that, in times not too far past, it was very much a case of subsistence fishing for the few locals of the area.

Argostoli

Argostoli, the administrative centre and capital of Kefalonia, is a vibrant, modern town. Rebuilt following the devastating earthquake of 1953 it continues to expand as Kefalonia rides the tourist boom. Visit Argostoli on a weekday morning and you’ll find it bustling with life as everyone goes about their normal daily business. This is a good time to stroll along the quayside to see the day's catch and the turtles, visit the Folklore & Archaeological museums and to experience a bit of real Greek life out of the tourist resorts. By two o’clock it’s a different story as the shop-keepers and clerks go off to take siesta and the last buses trundle out of the bus station. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday evenings Argostoli re-opens and this is a great time to hit the shops. All the serious business has been conducted – or left for another day – and Argostoli is more relaxed as, later in the evening, people meet up in the tavernas around the square or in the street cafes along Lithostroto to enjoy a meal or chat over coffee.

Ássos

A small hamlet situated on a narrow isthmus that links Kefalonia to a castle-crowned ‘island’. The fortress is a long walk up the hill but worth a visit – the sheer scale and tranquillity are impressive. Far less famous than Fiskardo, and all the better for it, several old buildings still stand and Ássos retains a tranquil charm of its own. Little happens in Ássos, it’s a great place to sit and watch the world not go by.

Atheras

Tucked away in a bay at the north of the Palliki peninsular, Atheras is miles away, in every respect, from the mainstream south coast resorts.

Batsa

Tucked away on the south-west coast of the Palliki peninsular, on the small, sandy cove of Batsa beach, is a wooden shack with an earth floor – the taverna. Next to it is a small inlet with fishing boats and, in the summer months, a raft and rope, for crossing the inlet Indiana Jones-style.

Drogaráti

A huge natural cavern, complete with stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is so large and the acoustics so good that it is used for concert performances, most notably by Maria Callas.

Fiskárdo

Named after Robert Guiscard, the French robber-baron who prised Kefalonia from the Byzantine empire, this delightful little fishing village escaped the devastating earthquake of ’53 and the eighteenth century Venetian architecture shows how much of Kefaloniá once looked. Fiskardo has long been popular with the yacht set and prices reflect this. Around the bay, away from the harbour, is a maritime conservation museum housed in one of the old mansions. Opposite is a Roman era cemetery and a large, very well preserved, Roman necropolis has recently been discovered near Fiskardo.

By day, Fiskardo is very popular with visitors; by evening it’s a lot more relaxed.

Karavados

A small village with a lovely sandy beach and a small amount of holiday accommodation, tourism is very low key in Karavados, making for a very relaxing holiday away from the crowds. Car pretty much essential.

Karavómilos

A natural lake (er, pond) formed where the seawater finally re-emerges, much less saline, after travelling under the island from Argostoli, having passed through Melissani on the way. A lovely, tranquil spot on the coast close to Melissani, complete with ducks – but not on the menu at the taverna where once was the mill

Katelios

Katelios retains the essence of a small, traditional Greek fishing village despite its quietly growing popularity. Huddled along the waterfront beside the harbour there’s a good selection of tavernas serving some of the best tasting fish dishes you’ll come across. The small main beach is mostly sand, very nearby Agia Barbara beach is a mix of sand and pebbles while the soft sands of nearby Mounda Bay stretch into Skala beach. Katelios is ideal for those seeking relaxation, especially early and late season.

Katovóthres and Fanari

Just outside Argostoli is one of Kefalonia's natural phenomena, the swallow holes at Katovothres, where seawater disappears unendingly into the island, only to reappear, much less saline, some two weeks later the other of the island at Karavómilos, near Sami where, prior to 1953 it powered two mills.

Kastro / Ágios Yiórgios

Kastro / Agios Yiórgios (The Castle of St George) provided a safe haven against pirate attacks and was the Venetian capital of Kefalonia until 1757. Re-opened in 2002 after several years of substantial renovation, it’s well worth a visit. Although the remains are largely Venetian it almost certainly dates back to the Byzantine era, and possibly before that. Beware the entrance to the secret passage – it looks a long, slippery slope down. Outside the castle are two tavernas offering great views across the south coast of Kefalonia to Zakynthos.

Koroni

A beautiful beach with fine golden sands backed by sand dunes, Koroni is another of Kefalonia’s hidden delights. The track down to it is still a bit dodgy so it’s 4x4 only, or by hiring a boat from nearby Katelios.

Kounopetra

Prior to the earthquake of 1953 this huge slab of rock, on the south coast of the Palliki peninsular, regularly moved, as if washed by the tide. Legend has it that a British warship once tried – but failed - to prize the rock away, rather like pulling a tooth, by tying a hawser to it. The big earthquake seems to have trapped the rock firmly in the seabed and it no longer moves.

Kourkoumelata

Curious Kourkoumelata hardly fits the bill as a typical Greek village with its amazing ‘iced cake’ buildings and their beautiful gardens, irrigated by the free-flowing waters which keep Kourkoumelata green and fragrant almost all year. Rumour has it that, after being destroyed in the ’53 earthquake, the re-built village was designed to resemble a typical Swiss village.

Whether that is true or not… what is true is that the rebuilding costs were met by the wealthy Vergotis family, who had made their fortune in the shipping industry after moving to America.

The only stipulation was that the village must be kept neat and clean, and it certainly is, earning it a reputation as the best-kept village on the island. On the edge of the village is the village hall, built in the style of a classical temple, while the cemetery has pleasant gardens and cool marble mausoleums, making it a very pleasant place to visit in the summer heat.

Krani

The remains of the Cyclopean walls of ancient Krani, dating to the 7th century BC, are sure to bemuse: if the one-eyed giants, the Cyclops, didn’t exist who in the heck moved those giant stone slabs into place and how did they do it???

Lassi

Lassi was Argostoli’s beach long before it became a popular, purpose-built resort in its own right. The Piccolo Yiro, the circular route around the headland and back over the hill, was a regular Sunday trip out for Argostoli's citizens during the Venetian period, when Lassi was little more than beautiful beaches backed by olive groves

After the airport opened, just ten minutes away by coach or car, Lassi became the island’s busiest resort. The main strip, lined by tavernas, bars and tourist shops, stretches for over a mile, just a little behind the sun-kissed golden beaches that shelve gently into the crystal clear waters. These beaches, particularly Platýs Yialós (Wide Beach) and Makrýs Yialós (Long Beach) are very popular and you’ll find beach umbrellas for shade and sun beds for working on that tan. When you’re ready for a bit of exercise you’ll find a variety of water sports available. Alternatively, a long stroll around the headland will take you past the Fanari lighthouse and Katovothres in to Argostoli. Or you can just hop on the regular bus.

Such is the popularity of Lassi that some of the accommodation is up the steep hill behind Lassi beach – a great way to walk off an evening meal and the views are superb! Taxis are easily available for the less energetic.

Lepeda

A fine red/golden sand beach just south of Lixouri, with views across to the Argostoli peninsular and Lassi. Interesting old 'monastery' tucked away at the end of the beach.

Lixoúri

Thirty minutes by ferry across the bay from Argostóli is Lixoúri, the only settlement of any size on the remote western peninsular of Palliki, which could almost be a separate island as it is somewhat different to ‘mainland’ Kefalonia. One theory suggests that Palliki was indeed once an island, separated by a short, narrow channel since filled by earthquake debris over thousands of years. Based on Homer’s writings and subsequent research, Livadas and Bittlestone after him, contend that Palliki is the original Ithaka, kingdom of Odysseus.

Lixouri is a charming small town with a very relaxed atmosphere. Tavernas and shops line the main square, right behind the ferry port where the boats from Argostoli and Kyllini call in. Nearby, at Lepeda, is an excellent sandy beach while, a little further, the red sands of Xi beach stretch endlessly along the south coast. Between Lixoúri and Xi is Mantzavinata, centre of red wine production on Palliki.

Lourdas

Lourdas village lies about halfway down the l-o-n-g, winding hill from Vlakhata (on the Argostoli – Poros road) to the beach, a long stretch of white sand and pebbles, backed by allotments and a few beach bars, although the allotments are slowly being encroached by tourist accommodation. Lourdas accommodation tends to be dotted between the olive groves from Vlakhata down to the beach while tavernas, bars, shops, etc, are mostly between Lourdas village and Vlakhata. Great for a pretty peaceful holiday but car hire definitely recommended!

Markópoulo

This quiet village above Katelios bursts into life on the 14th and 15th of August when the Assumption of the Virgin festival is celebrated, for other unique natural phenomena occurs at this time: the appearance, in and around the church, of small, harmless snakes with the sign of the cross on their head.

Mazarakata

Near the Castle of St George lie the rock tombs at Mazarakata, dating back to the Mycenaean period. Worth a look if you’re in the area – from Argostoli, take the Poros road and turn off right to Kokolata. Pass through the village and, just before the Peratata - airport road you’ll find the tombs on the left.

Melissáni

An amazing subterranean lake fed with sea water from Argostoli via underground passages. Some 160 metres long and 40 metres wide, the lake reaches depths of 39 metres yet the water is totally clear.

Once an enclosed cavern, numerous earthquakes caused the roof to, well, cave in, leaving a hole through which the sun shines in, providing natural illumination.

Originally accessed via rope and winch, some years ago a tunnel was cut providing easy entrance.

In ancient times the cave was used as a place of worship and clay figurines of Pan and the Nymphs have been excavated here. Local boatmen will row you around this enchanting grotto and give you a brief history of the cavern. Simply stunning, don't leave Kefalonia without seeing Melissani.

Tip: the best time to see Melissani is around 12:00 midday, when the sun is directly overhead. However, this is when most of the tour buses aim to be there so, to avoid being at the back of a long queue, aim to get there around 11:30 – 11:45. Whatever time of day you visit, it’s an amazing sight to see. Experienced divers may be able to participate in an organised dive in Melissani, contact the local dive schools for more info.

Monastery of Agios Gerasimos

Built over the cave where Gerasimos lived and visually pleasing from the outside, the interior wall paintings make it stunning to behold – a local version of the Sistine chapel. In the silver casket are the mummified remains of Gerasimos, patron saint of Kefalonia and ‘eccentrics’ (of which Kef has a fair few!)

Monastery of Agios Andreas

Repository of one of Saint Andrew’s feet and also to numerous artefacts rescued from other churches around the island after the ‘quake of 1953. Lovely old church.

Monastery of Kipoureion

On the remote west coast of the Palliki peninsular, Kipoureion monastery sits on the edge of a vertical cliff face and is famous locally for beautiful sunsets.

Mount Ainos

At 1628 metres, the highest mountain on Kefalonia and in all the Ionian. When the Venetians arrived it was so thickly forested they called it Monte Nero, the Black Mountain, but the native fir tree (Abies cephalonica) was ideal for boat building and the forest now covers a much smaller area. Now a national park, a

variety of bird life can be seen around Ainos and a small herd of wild ponies roam the mountainous slopes above Arginia, near the monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. Ainos itself is a life-giving source as it absorbs rainfall and then releases it, via natural springs, providing a supply of fresh water to the island all year.

Myrtos Beach

From the cliffs above, Myrtos must be one of the most stunning beach views anywhere in the world and one of the most photographed. Turquoise blue waters lap lazily on to the gorgeous white beach of soft sand… er… re-write… the beach is mostly pebbles and the ‘sand’ is more like grit. The beach shelves sharply into the sea and getting back on to the beach is like climbing a wall of marbles. Then there’s the treacherous undercurrents… A narrow, winding road leads down to the beach but best viewed from above.

Pessada

A village best known as being the port for the ferry which runs morning and evening between Kefalonia and Agios Nikolaos on Zakynthos. Very little at the port in the way of facilities.

Petani

On the remote west coast of the Palliki peninsular, Petani bay resembles Myrtos. Although the view isn’t so visually dramatic from the hills above, the beach is better and it’s safer to swim.

Poros

Poros is a traditional Greek coastal village based around three picturesque bays, all watched over by Mount Ainos. By day Poros can be quiet, as people relax on the sweeping sand and shingle beach of the northern bay or explore the local area – nearby is the 1,200 year old Atros monastery and, a little further, the impressive remains of a Mycenaean tomb dating back to 1350 BC. The working port occupies the southern bay while the square sits behind the town beach, in the middle bay. By night this area comes alive as visitors mingle with the locals in an informal appreciation of local delicacies – fresh fish and Robola. No UK package tours to Poros so it’s ideal for independent travellers who want a flavour of ‘real Greece’.

Sami

With the aid of amazingly realistic sets, Sami was transformed in to old Argostoli for the film Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, centred around the Hotel Kastro on the main square. After filming the sets had to be removed so that Sami could return to its role as ferry port for connections to Patras, Athens, Italy and Ithaka. Sitting at the southern end of the Ithaca straits, Sami was capital of the island when it was part of Odysseus’ kingdom and nearby are the natural wonders of Drogaráti, Melissáni and Karavómilos, also the beautiful white pebble beach of AntiSamos.

Skala

In winter Skala is just another quiet Kefalonia community but in the summer it bursts into life as the liveliest resort on the island, the four kilometre stretch of sand and shingle beach more than ample for the new hotel complexes.

By night, Skala’s tavernas and bars bustle with life while by day people laze around the pools, sunbathe on the beach, enjoy the variety of water sports or explore Kefalonia.

Svoronata

About ten minutes from the airport and spread out in the olive groves between the village of Svoronata and the nearby sandy beaches, Svoronata offers a very relaxing holiday in a laid-back environment with just enough tavernas and local shops to keep everyone supplied with essentials. Lassi and Argostoli within easy reach by car.

Trapezaki

Virtually a continuation of Lourdas beach, Trapezaki is a small village offering mainly villa holidays within reach of its pleasant beach. Car recommended.

Tzanata

About three kilometres out of Poros, through the gorge, can be found the remains of a Mycenaean tholos (beehive) tomb, similar to (but smaller than) the tomb of Agamemnon at Mycenae. Discovered only recently by local amateur archaeologists, it has been claimed to be the final resting place of mighty

Odysseus and, certainly, human skeletal remains were uncovered in the grave. However, scientific analysis suggests a king slightly pre-dating this legendary figure. Little of great monetary value was found as tomb raiders had previously looted the site, what was found is on display in Argostoli museum.

Xi

I’ve heard some interesting pronunciations but, correctly, it’s pronounced Ksee: a l-o-n-g stretch of fine red sand and clear waters on the south coast of the Palliki peninsular. The small cliff behind the beach may look like rock but it’s an amalgam of clay and mud which, when mixed with the clean sea water and applied to the skin, has a surprisingly rejuvenating effect.

KEFALONIA AIRPORT - arrivals

Kefallinia airport is situated between the two small resorts of Minies and Svoronata and is about 9 km, or fifteen minutes by taxi, from Argostoli, the capital. Lassi, one of the main resorts, is about 10 minutes away.

Some twenty years ago Kefalonia airfield was just that: a field where aeroplanes arrived and departed. The terminal building was little more than a tin hut and baggage handling was all but self-service. When the ‘new’ airport was planned no-one could have imagined the popularity Kefalonia would achieve, perhaps due in part to the international audience attracted by the natural beauty depicted in the film, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Prior to the release of the film the airport closed pretty promptly at 21:30. Any ’plane not in Greek airspace by 21:00 wasn’t going to land at Kefalonia. Due to demand for holidays on Kefalonia, the airport is now open until the early hours of the morning and, at times, it still isn’t big enough. Nevertheless, thanks to the airport staff, police and tour reps, everything is organised to run pretty smoothly and without the chaos I’ve seen elsewhere.

Due to the amount of suitable flat land available the airport is compact and only three planes can be on the tarmac together at any time. Occasionally this results in a few flights circling until space is available, but that’s fairly rare. Even in the summer months, Kefalonia airport is sometimes affected by low mist and flights may have to be diverted: again, quite uncommon.

On arrival you’ll be directed, via passport control, to baggage collection where there’s one baggage carousel.

It’s not unknown for three flights to land one after the other so, if the plane you were on wasn’t the first to land, you may experience a slight delay while the baggage is unloaded and processed. Large and unwieldy items, such as push-chairs and beach umbrellas, are usually processed separately and left for collection on the left-hand corner outside the terminal building (next to the main coach park).

If you’re bursting for a wee there are toilet facilities in the baggage reclaim area and more to the left and right outside baggage reclaim. Once you’ve collected your baggage the building exit is almost directly opposite the exit from baggage reclaim.

A few points to note:

1. Kefalonia airport is now non-smoking in the terminal building2. There is no exchange facility or ATM machine at the airport3. There is no bus service from, to or near the airport4. There is no medical facility at the airport5. There are no toilet or refreshment facilities on the coaches6. If any item of your baggage has been damaged in transit you need to report it to a member of the airport staff, and complete a report form, before you leave the airport

If you’re travelling on a package holiday the reps will normally be waiting just outside the baggage reclaim area. Check in with the rep for the company you are travelling with as soon as you have reclaimed all your belongings so that they know you have arrived, they will inform you which coach will be taking you on your onward journey and where it is. The main coach park is to the left of the terminal as you exit, additional coach parking is directly across from the terminal building. There may be several tour companies using the airport at the same time, often sharing flights, and there may be several coaches all with the same transfer number, so each coach will prominently display not only the transfer number (or letter) but also the name of the holiday company, e.g. Olympic 3 or Manos B.

Smoking, eating and drinking (anything other than water) aren’t permitted on the coaches: if you’re one of the first to reclaim all your baggage you may have time for a cigarette or to get a sandwich / bottle of pop before the coach departs, check with the rep at the coach. To minimise the delay for other passengers, once all the baggage for the flight has been reclaimed the coach will wait five minutes for the last passenger, then it will depart. If you have a problem that’s delaying you boarding the coach, tell the rep a.s.a.p.

If you’re making your own way to your accommodation (or if you’re not taking the accommodation), inform the rep, so that other passengers aren’t kept waiting for you, and find out which room you have been allocated. If you have a taxi pre-booked through your holiday company the rep will direct you to it. If you have booked a taxi independently the driver will normally be waiting in the arrivals lounge (between baggage reclaim and the exit). The taxi rank is on the opposite side of the road directly outside the airport and, if you don’t have a taxi booked then, during peak season especially, you may have to wait until one returns.

If you have a car booked for collection at the airport the larger companies have either a booth inside the terminal or an office just outside the main gates to the airport. A representative of the hire company will normally be waiting for you, either inside or outside the terminal building.

Transfer times to resorts are normally indicated in the holiday brochures and tend to be fairly accurate, although the time stated may be to the first drop-off in each resort. Depending on where your accommodation is located, the longest you’re likely to be on the coach is 2-2½ hours (e.g. Skala). Almost certainly other passengers will be dropped off on the way. Except at hotels, the rep will normally show guests to their rooms, this takes a little longer but ensures guests get into their rooms (i.e. a check that the accommodation owner / cleaner has left the key in the door). Bear in mind that the rep on the transfer coach may well not be the rep for your accommodation and, even if s/he is, will have other passengers waiting on the coach, all of whom want to get in to their accommodation and start their holiday so, unless there’s an urgent problem, don’t delay the rep & other passengers.

If, during the journey, you need to use a toilet / be sick, inform the rep on the coach a.s.a.p. If there isn’t a rep on the transfer coach inform the driver (preferably not when he’s negotiating a hairpin bend around a vertical drop). Otherwise, for safety, remain seated while the coach is in motion.

Wearing a seat-belt on the coach is compulsory, the police periodically stop coaches and conduct spot checks (and on-the-spot fines).

During the journey the rep is likely to provide some information. Some of it may be essential, if it’s not of interest to you it may be to other passengers and, even if you have been to the island / resort before… things change.

KEFALONIA AIRPORT – departures

On your last day the normal vacation time of accommodation is 10:00, regardless of the time of your flight. This is standard practice on Kefalonia due to early flight arrivals: the next people staying in the room may be on an early flight and, even if they aren’t, the maid needs to clean the rooms and in some sort of order. The international hoteliers’ convention may state that the international room check-out time is by 12:00 but that is by 12:00 mid-day, not at 12:00, i.e. that is the latest time; it may be earlier, i.e. it may be subject to local agreement. Some accommodation may provide a courtesy room – unless it’s stated in the brochure as part of the holiday provision then, as the term says, this is a courtesy, not a right. Generally, only the larger hotels may be able to provide this courtesy.

If you’re travelling with a package tour company you will normally be informed of your pick-up time, and place, the day before departure. The time may vary week-to-week depending on the stops the coach has to make. If there’s anything that isn’t clear to you check with the rep or contact the local office of the tour company (’phone number normally on an information board at your accommodation).

If you’re travelling independently you’ll normally need to contact the airline representative between 48-24 hours prior to departure to confirm flight and check-in times and to confirm you'll be taking the flight, otherwise your seat may be sold.

Due to security arrangements, the size of Kefalonia airport and the volume of passengers using it, check-in is commonly three hours prior to the scheduled departure time of the flight. While it’s quite possible for planes to take off within a few minutes of each other it isn’t possible to get that number of passengers, and their luggage, processed so quickly. Flight times are determined by the airlines and airports, check-in times by the airports: i.e. not by the tour companies, nor by the reps.

Transfers to the airport are invariably quicker than arrival transfers: passengers should be waiting, with their luggage, and simply need to see their luggage loaded on to the coach and get on, i.e. the rep doesn’t have to show them out of their rooms. Coaches will normally wait five minutes after the scheduled pick-up time, any missing passengers are declared ‘no shows’.

On arrival at the airport it’s quite likely there will be a queue. This is a queue for the check-in, irrespective of whether you’re travelling with a package company or independently: being an ‘independent traveller’ doesn’t confer queue-jumping rights.

Flight delays aren’t common at Kefalonia but do occur, although the cause is invariably at the other end. Believe what you like but reps don’t know about flight delays in advance. Almost invariably they stay in basic tourist accommodation without internet access, television, etc. They may have a mobile telephone but, if they do, it will almost invariably be their own, not supplied by the company. They only know what they are told and that will be when they reach the airport. Bearing in mind that they may have to leave their accommodation thirty minutes before a two-hour transfer to get you there three hours before the flight… the problem probably hasn’t even occurred by the time they start the transfer.

When a delay occurs the airport and tour companies will pass on reliable information. Invariably someone will get on their mobile phone to their mate in the UK who will look on the internet… the information you hear third hand may or may not be accurate and up-to-date. The airport will only give an estimated arrival time once the inbound aircraft has taken off and been in the air for around thirty minutes. Until the flight has taken off there is no way of knowing when it will actually be able to take-off, i.e. when it will be declared fit to fly and when it will get a usable ‘slot’. When it’s been in the air for thirty minutes it’s usually a good sign that all is OK and that it won’t be diverting back to where it’s just departed from. While some people like to know the reason for the delay it’s actually pretty immaterial, whether the pilot’s forgotten the keys or the wing’s fallen off, a delay is a delay and there’s nothing you, or your rep, can do about it. Where there is going to be a substantial delay most airlines will issue snack vouchers. If it turns out to be an overnight delay the airline/tour co. will arrange meals and accommodation as near the airport as possible and not in your holiday accommodation.

There are three check-in desks at the airport and, depending upon the number of passengers, usually all three will be open but not necessarily for the same flight. Have your passports and tickets ready for when you reach the check-in desk and make sure you’ve removed all old baggage tickets from your luggage. Your hold baggage will be scanned once you have checked-in.

When you have completed the check-in process you can either wait in the air-conditioned check-in lounge (a no smoking area) or sit in the garden area outside. There’s a couple of kiosks and a small snack bar in the check-in area where you can buy sandwiches and refreshments. There’s also a couple of tavernas nearby but it’s advisable not to leave the airport, even if your flight is delayed. Between sixty to thirty minutes before departure you’ll normally be called to passport control, once you’ve passed through you’ll find a small duty-paid shop selling popular brands of cigarettes, wines and spirits and perfumes, etc.

Kalo taxidi!

KEFALONIA - living on the island

Living on Kefalonia, or buying a holiday home here, is an idea that appeals to many people and some have done it. Some are still doing it and some aren’t. It isn’t particularly difficult but it isn’t totally straightforward, either.

If you’re thinking of buying, or building, a home here the best plan is to rent first and spend at the least six months on the island, preferably over the winter and preferably in the area you want your new home to be in. Bear in mind that, while the summers tend to be invariably hot and sunny, one winter can be different to the next. Rain is quite common, although rarely the cold, driving rain we’re used to in the UK. The days can be warm and sunny but, once the sun drops down over the nearest hill, the evenings and nights can be very cold.

Buildings generally, even new homes, aren’t built with the same materials as in the UK or to the same standards. Buildings are required to be resistant to earthquakes and that dictates different building materials and techniques, usually involving a steel-reinforced concrete shell. Damp proof courses and insulation are rare: it does get very damp in the winter and very cold. It also gets very hot in July and August, so insulation needs to be against both the cold and the heat.

Besides the weather, you might want to think about how you’ll pass your time when you’re not sat on the beach every day. Villages which are quiet in the summer months are very quiet in winter, when many people go to Athens or America, and far fewer tavernas and bars, etc, are open.

During the summer water may be in short supply. At any time of the year, but especially in winter, power cuts aren’t unknown.

Greece may seem very laid back but in fact it has a very cumbersome bureaucracy which moves very slowly.

The ‘avrio’ approach may be shrugged off as part of the Greek way when you’re on holiday but it can be frustrating when you need to get something done, such as doors put on your new house or getting your new business registered.

You won't need a residence permit to live here (if you're an EU national) but you'll need a work permit if you intend to work here. You'll also need to register with the tax office. If you are planning to work out here the options are limited.

Self-employment is a possibility but finding a gap, let alone a niche, in the market isn’t easy. If you plan to seek employment then, unless you speak fluent Greek like a native, you’ll almost certainly be limited to the tourist industry, in some form. You’ll probably be working the same number of hours as the Greeks, seven days a week. There’s no sick pay: if you don’t work, you don’t get paid. Wage rises in no way keep pace with price rises.

Since the drachma was replaced by the Euro many prices seem to be comparable with UK prices, some things are less expensive, some more, e.g. clothing is quite expensive here.

Children will have to learn Greek as all lessons are conducted in Greek, except English, the way that is taught may be very different to the way they are taught in the UK. Generally, children pick up the language quickly but it is likely to involve extra lessons in their time and at your expense.

If they are in, or approaching, their GCSE years then their education is likely to be seriously disrupted. Children will be children and it’s possible they won’t make friends with all their new classmates, especially if they don’t speak the language.

Getting to and from the island in winter isn’t inexpensive, or easy as there are no direct flights from Kef to the UK. You can get to / from Athens by coach, which is fairly inexpensive but involves a long journey, or you can fly, which is quicker but not inexpensive. Frequently there will be a long delay between your connections. It’s not uncommon for the island to be cut off from the mainland for several days during the winter due to weather conditions.

Buying a business or property isn’t difficult but you’ll need the services of professionals: lawyers, notaries, etc. Greeks are, generally, honest but they aren’t naïve. They have an eye for a profit and it’s not unheard of for people to pay a lot of money for land and house-building only to discover, a few years later, that living on Kefalonia isn’t the same as a holiday and that they can’t sell their property for anything like they paid for it.

Hence it’s best to rent first, be sure you like the place and the people, check out prices, learn from the experience of others, etc, before making a commitment. If you decide to give it a try you’ll probably find that:

British television programming is actually quite good.

Although there is a small amount of petty crime on the island, it’s less common than in many parts of the UK.

Especially when it’s hot and busy in July and August, people can get stressed. But not, usually, all year round'

Not all Greeks are nice people.

Not all Brits are nice people.

Reliable information is a scare commodity;misinformation, rumour and petty gossip abounds.

It really can get cold and wet in winter.

KEFALONIA - in winter

Greece is a very popular summer destination for millions of visitors each year who come to soak up the sun on the multitude of glorious beaches, swim in the clean blue seas and explore the natural and classical wonders. Less well known are the ski resorts of northern Greece which, while not rivalling the resorts in Switzerland and France, etc, nevertheless offer some good skiing.

Kefalonia, like most of Greece, is ‘open’ from May to October. If you’ve visited Kefalonia at the start or end of the season you’ll know how quiet it is and, out of season, it’s quieter still. Of course, visitors are welcome all year but the volume of winter visitors doesn’t make it economically viable to keep all the tavernas, etc, open and the amount of accommodation available is limited. Argostoli and Lixouri remain active all year round but Lassi, a bustling resort in summer, shuts up shop completely, apart from maybe a bar or two open at weekends. Skala, a hive of activity from May to October, reverts back to being a small village with a few bars and, maybe, a couple of tavernas open. Sami, a busy port during the summer, goes into hibernation with a very limited choice of tavernas open. Poros seems comparatively lively with maybe six or more tavernas remaining open. Katelios, Lourdas, Agia Efimia, Fiskardo… gone fishing, or picking olives.

Often the days are pleasantly warm with clear blue skies, making it ideal for walking – in shorts and polo shirt. Nights tend to be cold, starting from the moment the sun drops behind the nearest mountain. At some time it will – hopefully – rain. Without it the spring grass doesn’t grow green and the flocks suffer, the flowers don’t bloom so brightly and summer supplies of water are precarious. Some winters are so sunny and dry they would make perfect British summers. Other years, the winter rains last for weeks on end, although it tends to be warm rain falling straight down rather than cold rain driving at you at an angle, as in the UK. The rain, together with the cold nights and lack of heat in the sun, tend to make winters – and buildings – damp and some form of heating and a warm duvet is necessary.

The variable winter weather makes beach holidays unappealing and Kefalonia doesn’t get sufficient snow to make it a viable ski centre. But it does get snow almost every year, although usually only on the top of the mountains. However, during February, 2006 a combination of strong winds and a heavy snow fall brought down about twenty pylons around the island. The whole island was without mains power for several days, some villages were without power and water for over a week. But that’s rare.

So, for those who live and work here, winter’s a time to get some much needed rest, meet up with friends we haven’t seen all summer and indulge in our pastimes.

Loggerhead turtle

LOGGERHEAD TURTLES

Sea turtles date back to the time of dinosaurs, evolving into something resembling their present features around 60,000,000 years ago. Two species inhabit the seas around Greece, the Loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta), so named due to its large head, and the Green turtle (Chelonia mydas), named after its distinctive green colouring. The Loggerhead, distinguished by its big head, a reddish-brown shell and yellow/brown skin, is one of the oldest species in the world.

An adult Loggerhead grows to a length of 1.1-1.2 m, weighs between 100-385 kg and can live for around 65 years. Although many don’t make it to this age, some may reach much older. Average adults in the Mediterranean tend to be slightly smaller than average adults in the Atlantic. Toothless, their powerful jaws are capable of crushing molluscs and crustaceans and they also feed on jellyfish, fish, the Portuguese Man o’ War and other small- to medium-sized marine creatures.

Two sub-species of Loggerhead are generally recognised: Caretta caretta gigas, found in the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and C. caretta carreta, the Atlantic Loggerhead. The largest collections of Atlantic Loggerhead turtle nesting grounds are on the east coast of America, from Texas to North Carolina. They also nest on beaches on Brazil and West Africa and the Mediterranean, where. Zakynthos is one of the largest sites. There are also nest sites at Dalyan, south-western Turkey, the Greek island of Kefalonia, Akamas and Alagadi beaches on Cyprus and the Italian islands of Lampedusa and Linosa.

On Kefalonia the principal nesting site is below Ratzakli at Mounda Bay, between Skala and Katelios.

The Loggerhead makes the longest migration journeys of any sea turtles and may be unique among sea turtles in that mating occurs anywhere between the feeding grounds and nesting beaches, rather than only near to the nest sites.

As male turtles never return to land after hatching little is known about their whereabouts or habits, it is invariably female turtles that are tagged and from which information about migration paths is gathered.

Generally, the Atlantic Loggerhead follows a gyratory migration path. According to Peter Richardson of the Marine Conservation Society, Loggerheads travel around the North Atlantic ocean currents in a wide loop. From nesting beaches in Florida, they follow the Gulf Stream across the Atlantic to Madeira, and then head south to the Canary Islands and Cape Verde Isles, before heading back to the south-east coast of the US.

From what is known, it seems Loggerheads reach sexual maturity between ten to thirty years from birth. Mating occurs between late March and early June and female turtles return at night, often but not always, to the beach they were born to lay their eggs, typically between 70 – 150/200 eggs in one nest. The eggs, which are round and approximately the size of table-tennis balls, are laid in a chamber hollowed between 40 – 60 cm (1’ 4” - 2’) deep in the sand and covered with sand after laying. The female turtles can repeat this process after some 15 days and may nest three or four times a season, mating several times between nesting.

Incubation lasts for approximately sixty days and the sex of the hatchlings is determined by the egg temperature during the middle period of incubation. Generally, the pivotal temperature, where a clutch produces 50% male and 50% female hatchlings, is between 28° C - 30° C. Temperatures between 24° C - 26° C produce mostly males, between 32° C - 34° C mostly females. Outside these temperatures it's doubtful the eggs will hatch. The actual period of incubation depends upon the temperature within the nest, this can be affected by the weather, shade, heat generated within the nest and each individual egg's position in the nest. At the lower survivable temperatures, incubation may take 65-70 days; at the higher range, incubation may take only 45 days.

Newly hatched turtles mostly emerge at night, when risk from predators is lower, and are attracted by the light of the moon, and gravity, into the sea. Lights from tavernas, bars, hotels, etc, can disorientate the new-born turtles and attract them away from the sea. Obstructions on the beach are also detrimental to hatchlings reaching the sea. Hatchlings need the journey to the sea to build up their strength and ‘helping’ them into the sea by picking them up and carrying them may reduce their chances of survival in the sea.

Unable to retract in to their shells, as tortoises and terrapins can, turtles rely on their hard shell and leathery skin for protection.

At sea, turtles may fall foul of fishing nets, lines and contact with boats. These are real threats and can happen any-where: only female turtles come ashore and predominantly at night, when few small, fast boats are at sea. In Australia is has been predicted that the annual survival rate is 92% for immature turtles and 88% for adults.

Tourism expansion on the sandy beaches where turtles lay their eggs can be a major threat but it’s possible for tourism and turtles to live side by side.

If you want to see Loggerheads on Kefalonia the best place is Argostoli. Although the females nest on Mounda Bay and a few other beaches, it's mostly at night (so it's dark and difficult to see them) plus we don't want them to be disturbed. Head down to Argostoli when the fishing boats are there selling their catch, e.g. between about 08:00 – 14:00, Monday to Saturday, and there's a very good chance one or more will be swimming around waiting for their free brunch – the scraps thrown over the side from the fishing boats.

LOOS

What you’ve heard about the loo paper is true - putting waste paper (or other items) down the loo is tempting fate… it’s likely to cause a blockage which may clear itself – not by flushing down the pipe but by blowing back up… with devastating consequences for whoever’s using the loo at the time! So, while putting loo paper in the little waste bin may not seem very hygienic, it’s worked well for centuries and is far better than the other possibility!

The maid will empty the bin when she calls to clean, otherwise just tie the bag and pop it in one of the big green wheelie bins by the roadside – easy! In a week or two it will be quite natural to sit on the loo and throw the paper into the bin in the corner… just as you remember that you’re back home and there is no bin in the corner… If you’re out and about: “Where’s the toilet, please?” = “Parakalor, pooh eenay ee too-a-letta?”

MEDITERRANEAN MONK SEALS

Revered in ancient Greece and under the protection of the gods Poseidon and Apollo, the head of a monachus monachus, not of a monarch, appeared on one of the first known Greek coins, minted around 500 BC. However, the Roman gods did not smile favourably on the Monk Seal and they were heavily hunted for their fat and fur and have been ever since. Once commonly found basking on sandy beaches, where they nested, they now seek sanctuary in sea caves, often with submerged entrances. Numbers are so low that they are the mammal most likely to next become extinct, and in the not distant future. The closely related Caribbean Monk Seal passed into extinction as recently as the twentieth century.

Originally widespread across the Mediterranean, Marmara and Black Seas, and on Atlantic coasts from France to the Azores and the Gambia, the world-wide population of Mediterranean Monk Seals is estimated to be as low as 500-600, with perhaps half of those living in the seas around Greece, principally in the Marine Park of Alonissos. They are also reputed to live around the Ionian islands, particularly along the rocky coast of Kefalonia between Poros and Fiskardo.

Originally friendly and trusting by nature, they have become wary of human contact and can easily be spooked. In the very unlikely event you come into close proximity of a Monk Seal it’s best to remain motionless or slowly but surely back away.

There’s a lot of very readable information about the Mediterranean Monk Seal at www.monachus-guardian.org

MONASTERIES

Greece is famous for its beautiful monasteries and pretty churches, many of which are open to visitors. The most famous on Kefalonia is the convent of Agios Gerásimos, patron Saint of Kefalonia.

Gerasimos lived around 500 years ago and had a natural gift for curing the mentally troubled and for water divining. He led a very simple life and spent much of his time living in caves, including one on the hill above Lassi. He settled in a cave in the Omala Valley where he established many wells, most still visible and in use. After his death he was buried nearby and, so the story goes, a few years later the locals noticed a phosphorescent glow above his grave. Gerasimos was duly exhumed and his body was found not to have decomposed. These days a scientific explanation would be found but, five hundred years ago among a deeply religious people, this was surely a sign from God and Gerasimos was canonised and declared patron saint of Kefalonia and of the mentally ill.

A church was built over his grave and this survived the 1953 earthquake (another sign from God). Gerasimos lies in an ornate silver casket inside the church, this is opened for Orthodox visitors to kiss the saint’s feet. At the back of this beautiful little church you can find a trap door that leads down, via a narrow opening and step-ladder, to the two small caves Gerasimos lived in. Local legend has it that, should you exit the cave without dirt on your clothing, you’ve led a pure life. Next to the small church is a much more recent and larger church with very good examples of the icon painters’ art on the walls and ceiling.

On the evening of 15 August, and during 16 August, the Monastery celebrates the feast day of Agios Gerásimos and Orthodox Christians from around the world travel to Kefalonia to pay homage. To a slightly smaller extent, the same occurs on the evening of 19 October and the morning of 20 October.

Near Kastro is the Monastery of Agios Andreas, which has a rather curious prize relic – the foot of St. Andrew. What happened to the remains of St. Andrew are a bit of a mystery but one of his feet found its way to Kefalonia. The beautiful old church is now a museum, accommodating relics rescued from other churches on the island which were destroyed in the ’53 quake.

Other fine examples of old icons can be found at the Sissia Monastery, on the south coast between Katelios and Lourdas.

Atros, the oldest monastery on the island, dates back to around 800 A.D. and is fairly inaccessible, located at the end of a very long and rough dirt track, high in the hills above Poros. The views are quite spectacular.

Another monastery with spectacular views is Kipoureion, on the west coast of the Paliki peninsular. Built above the sea on the edge of a near vertical cliff face, the sunsets are superb.

Please remember and respect the dress code: shoulders, elbows and knees (and tummies) should be covered.

MOPEDS, MOTORBIKES & QUADS, etc

An inexpensive and seemingly fun way to get around but very dangerous. Every year we see holidays ruined by ’bike accidents, broken bones are common and sometimes it’s fatal. Not all the bikes are well maintained by competent persons and, even when the bikes are in good condition, road conditions in Greece are very different to the UK. Tight bends and adverse cambers are common, wet roads are very slippery and, on dry roads, sand, grit and mud are as treacherous for bikes as ice. Potholes aren't uncommon and tend to be pretty dodgy, too.

Kefalonia is one of the larger Greek islands and getting around on two wheels tends to be a long, slow, bum-numbing experience. Crash helmets are compulsory, fines for not wearing a helmet are high. Holiday insurance rarely covers motor-bike accidents and the vehicle insurance is usually third-party only.

MOUNT AINOS

Ainos is the highest mountain in the Ionian islands, at an elevation of 1628m at its summit (around one mile above sea level). In comparative terms, it's higher than Ben Nevis in the UK (1344m) and just slightly higher than the city of Denver, Colorado, USA (1609m).

The views from the summit are worth the trek up. On a clear day the whole of Kefalonia, most of Ithaka and parts of Zakynthos, Meganissi and Levkas are visible, also Kyllini and the mainland coast. On a very clear day you may see the coast of Corfu.

A few metres below the summit, known as Megalos Soros, are the remains of a once-famous temple to Zeus Ainissos, or Ainios, mentioned in the works of Hesiod. On a plateau some 600m below the summit is the Michalitsianos Telescope. The premises, originally built for the Hellenic Air Force, are now used for the Eudoxos project. Born 1947 in Alexandria, Egypt, Andreas Gerasimos Michalitsianos was the son of a ship's captain from Kefalonia who died at sea in 1952. By this time the family had moved to New York City, USA. Having developed an interest in astronomy at an early age he pursued his interest through academic study and worked on the NASA/ESA Hubble Space Telescope. Awarded the NASA Meritorious Achievement Award and promotion to the Senior Executive Service of the United States, Michalitsianos was Chief of the Laboratory for Astronomy and Solar Physics at NASA's Goddard Space Flight Centre at the time of his death in 1997.

During the Venetian period Ainos was known as Monte Nero (black mountain) due to thick forestation of the dark Kefalonian Fir tree (Abies cephalonica). During the 18th century the forest covered an area of 14 x 5 kilometres but the tall, straight trees proved highly suitable for shipbuilding and many were logged. Originally native to the island, demand for their wood was such that, during British rule, Sir Charles Napier, High Commissioner of the island, had some exported to meet demand and today the trees are found on the Peloponnese and Evia and are also known as the Greek Fir. I've heard that some were also exported to Canada and Russia. Napier was also responsible for construction of the road to the summit and the preservation of the forest, although a number of fires have reduced the forest and today patches of bare white rock are visible in places.

In 1962 the Greek government declared the Ainos forest a national park and thus protected it by law. Albeit classified as a "Lower Risk Near Threatened", Abies cephalonica is on the 2007 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

Ainos appears to be riddled with subterranean channels which collect the heavy winter rain and release it throughout the long, hot, summer months, keeping Kefalonia greener than most Greek islands. The thin soil on Ainos suits the Robola grape variety and many small vineyards are scattered across and down the slopes. The main winery on the island, the Robola Cooperative, lies in the foothills of Ainos on the flat, fertile, plain of the Omala valley which is supplied with water from the many wells divined by Agios Gerasimos.

The mountain also supports a variety of wildlife including numerous herds of goats. Local legend has it that the goats of Ainos have gold teeth. Undoubtedly, Jason could have saved himself a lot of time and trouble by capturing and breeding some of these, and made a fortune in the process. Sadly, it's just another Kefalonian myth, although something in their natural diet does give their teeth a golden glow (or so I've been told).

Almost as rare as the golden-toothed goats are the wild horses of Ainos. Some claim these are descendants of the wild horses of Thessaly, one of three ancient Greek breeds now extinct (Achaean, Thessalian & Thracian). Others reckon they are descended from escaped or released livestock. Most likely they are escaped / released horses descended from Pindos ponies, which were captured, broken and traded at horse fairs in Aitoloakarnania (the Greek mainland opposite Kefalonia, north of the Gulf of Corinth) and Arta. The Pindos ponies themselves are thought to be descended from Thessalian stock. Officially the ponies are not a recognised breed but are classed as a Type B Mountain Pony. Whatever, they are cautious creatures, prone to flight if approached - so maybe they're descended from Pegasus? If you're very quiet you might catch a glimpse of them around the Zoodochos Pigi ("life-giving source", i.e. fresh water) monastery above Arginia.

Slightly more common are birds of prey such as Griffon vultures, common buzzards, Eleonora’s Falcons and the huge Eagle Owl. Golden Eagles may still be seen although they no longer appear to nest on the island. Other bird life on and around Ainos includes the black woodpecker and the white-backed woodpecker and many birds once common in the UK can still be seen on Kefalonia. You may also come across hares (some with 'silver' teeth), tortoises, various snakes and lizards.

From the Argostoli – Sami road the narrow, winding road commissioned by Napier clings to the mountainside. Now surfaced for approximately the first ten kilometres, the final five or so remain unsurfaced. This stretch, and the track over the mountain, are 4x4 territory only and, even then, the track over the mountain terrifies some people and may be impassable during the winter and early season. Although the track over the summit isn’t recommended there’s a surfaced road across the mountain that's a very pleasant drive. From the Argostoli – Sami road take the turn to the summit and, just before the huge radar dishes, take the left fork. This road leads through some beautiful scenery in the Pyrgi area into the hill villages on the Poros – Sami road.

MUSEUMS

Athens has several world-class museums, including the National Museum and the new Acropolis Museum, where much of the country’s treasures are on display.

The Archaeological Museum in Argostoli, Kefalonia, is far more modest but contains some interesting finds, including those from the Mycenaean Tholos Tomb at Tzanata, Poros. Open from 08:00-15:00, Sunday-Friday.

The nearby Koryialenios Historical & Cultural Museum (basement of the library, behind the Kefalos Theatre, opposite the Archaeological Museum) captures the essence of island life before the devastating earthquake. Especially impressive is the reconstructed and richly decorated chapel. Open from 08:00-15:00, Monday-Saturday.

The small Natural History Museum at Davgata contains some interesting natural finds from the island.

There’s also a small maritime museum in Fiskardo, housed in one of the old mansions.

NATURISM

Public displays of nudity are officially illegal in Greece but may be unofficially tolerated on certain beaches, e.g. in Skala there’s a (very) unofficial naturist beach: on Skala beach turn right and walk between the rocks at the end of the beach. The next beach, between Skala beach and Mounda Bay, has long been an unofficial naturist beach. However, recent property development has resulted in houses being built on the cliff top and some complaints have been made about nudity on the beach – with arrests made. In particular, nudity near a church would be viewed very dimly (e.g. where there’s a church on the beach).

For info re Kefalonia's naturist hotel see www.viglanatura.com

NAMES & NAME DAYS

There’s quite a number of Greek Christian names but, certainly on any island, you’ll find several are prominent and, often, the name of the island’s patron saint will be the most prominent. On Kefalonia it’s Makis, which is an abbreviation (?) for Gerasimos. Through tradition, the first-born son will be named after the husband’s father and so names are passed down through the generations. Again, through tradition (this one due to infant mortality), babies aren’t named/christened until they are a year old, so you don’t ask the name of a new baby.

A Greek (male) will inevitably introduce himself as, e.g., Makis, Kostas, Spyros, etc. If you are referring to him in conversation you’d say, e.g., “Have you seen Makis / Kostas / Spyros?” However, when you talk to Makis / Kostas / Spyros you drop the ‘s’ on the end, so you say, e.g.: “Yiasou, Maki / Kosta / Spyro”.

Female names usually end in ‘a’ (e.g., Evdokia) or ‘i’ (e.g., Eleni) but may end in ‘o’ (e.g., Arjiro). Often there is a female version of a male name, e.g. Spyros / Spyradoula, Stammos / Stamatia, Petros / Petroula, Kostas (a.k.a. Dino) / Dina (Konstantinos / Konstantina).

Traditionally, Greeks don’t celebrate birthdays as we do – they celebrate Name Days, so every one named Vasillis celebrates on 01 January (St Vasillis Day). On their name day they buy cakes or sweets and distribute them to their friends, many of whom will call round with sweet pastries or a bottle to wish them ‘Kronia Polah’ (‘Many years’, or as we’d say, 'Many happy returns’).

ODYSSEAS

Once upon a tyme there was a beautiful Princess, Eleni (Helen), who was wooed by a handsome young Prince, Paris. After much wooing, Eleni eventually eloped with Paris and they lived unhappily ever after. For Eleni was married to Menelaus, king of Sparta, and when she arrived at Troy she was kept prisoner, for the artful Paris was really only after the treasure he persuaded Eleni to take from the vaults of Sparta.

Enter Odysseas, superhero of ancient Greece. He united all the Greek city-states against Troy, gathered a great army of Greek heroes and led the epic Trojan wars which defeated Troy and freed the beautiful Helen.

Well, that’s one version of the epic Trojan saga. A more realistic version might be… When the volcano at Santorini erupted it caused an enormous tidal wave which destroyed the mighty Minoan civilisation on Crete. In its place arose a new super-power, mighty Mycenae, led by King Agamemnon. He desired the beautiful Kassandra, but she was married… so Agamemnon contrived a battle, slew her husband and then slew her suckling baby. Kassandra was taken as his wife and her sister, Helen (who was almost as beautiful as the goddesses Aphrodite and Athena), was married off to his brother, King Menelaus of Sparta.

Far away, Paris had upset the goddesses, Aphrodite and Athena, and his punishment was to fall in love with Helen, and for her to fall in love with him. When she eloped to Troy she took with her much from the treasury of Sparta (clever woman!), and so began the epic 10 year Trojan Wars.

Besides leading the Greek army against Troy, Odysseas devised and built the Wooden Horse which, of course, was responsible for the defeat of Troy.

Having won the war, Odysseas was fated to wander aimlessly and ten long years later he arrived on Ithaka, recognised only by his swine-herder and his faithful dog. Regarded as a beggar by the many suitors who had swarmed to his kingdom to woo his faithful wife, Penelope, he dispatched them in his customary style, only to have a fateful demise… see the Books section for books on classical Greek history… Agamemnon’s fate is particularly interesting!

OUZO

Always associated with Greece, this potent brew probably has its origins in what is now Turkey – albeit the parts previously inhabited by Greeks prior to the ethic cleansing of the 1920’s. As far back as Byzantine times, the residue of grapes that had been pressed for wine making was distilled to make raki and, during fermentation, a variety of aromatic herbs, berries, roots and flowers were added, according to the imagination and tastes of the distiller. Such was the popularity of raki that, during the dark days of the Ottoman Empire, demand exceeded supply and raw alcohol was imported, usually packed in crates that had previously been used to export silk cocoons from Turkey to Marseilles. All such exports/imports passed through Italy and were marked, in Italian, ‘USO MARSEILLES’, meaning ‘for use in Marseilles’.

However, alcohol made in and imported from the west was invariably a by-product of molasses, distilled from sugar rather than grapes and hence a very different base. As some unscrupulous importers simply added a variety of flavours to this molasses base and passed it off as raki, the Greek ports of Constantinople and Smyrna added a colouring to the neat imported alcohol, known as ‘uso’, so that it had to be distilled again to remove the colour.

When the Greeks were forcibly expelled from Turkey a number of distilleries were set up on nearby Lesvos and in Makedonia and today there are around 7,000 licensed stills in operation in Greece. Connoisseurs of ouzo reckon the best is produced in Plomari, Mytilene (Lesbos).

As Kefalonia, along with the other Ionian islands, escaped occupation by the Ottoman Turks, ouzo isn’t as traditionally popular here as on islands to the east of Greece and tsipouro (raki) was the traditional tipple. For an interesting and entertaining opinion on various ouzos, check out Matt Barrett’s www.greecefoods.com

PERIPTERO

The periptero, or cigarette kiosk, is as much a part of Greece as tavernas or ouzo. Now under threat from anti-smoking laws and increased taxation on tobacco, these wooden cubes, usually painted yellow, were established after the war to provide employment for war veterans and mostly have been passed down the family line. In residential areas the general rule is that only the periptero is allowed to sell cigarettes and tobacco. In some cases, especially in very rural areas, petrol stations may also have a small stock. In addition to cigarettes the periptero usually has a stock of phone cards, confectionery and ice creams, soft drinks, magazines, postcards, etc. Some periptero will accept credit card payment for cigarette cartons, some won’t.

PHOTOGRAPHY

The light in Greece is excellent for photography and Kefalonia offers some excellent photo opportunities:

Should you fill your memory card, you should be able to find a shop that will transfer your memories on to CD and/or sell memory cards.

Naturally, you aren’t going to take photos near any military bases / installations, or where there are signs saying…

Απαγορεύεται η λήψη φωτογραφιών

Not that I recall seeing any such signs on Kefalonia.

POROS

Not to be confused with Poros, the Saronic island, or Paros, one of the Kyklades islands, Poros, on the south-east coast of Kefalonia, is ideal for independently-minded visitors who seek to escape the package tour complex resorts and find something more genuinely Greek.

Meaning ford or crossing in Greek, Poros is situated around the only natural crossing point of the Vohinas river - where it enters the sea.

Prior to 1953, Poros was a just small scattering of fishermen’s huts built on rocky debris washed down the Vohinas river over many millennia. The ’53 earthquake destroyed many of the surrounding villages and a new town was built, at the foot of towering hills, on the flat plain of Poros, which is naturally divided into three bays. On the central bay sits the main square, where local festivals are held during the summer months and, either side of the square, are the main beach and port.

The main land access to Poros is via a road cut into the side of the 80 metre deep Poros gorge, through which flows (in winter months) the Vohinas. The road leads down to the taverna-lined central square, directly behind the good but pebbly town beach. Behind the square are the local shops: a couple of grocers, a greengrocer, a couple of butchers, a baker’s shop, the bank (with ATM), doctor’s surgery, dentist, pharmacy, petrol station, and so on: just about everything necessary for every day life in a small town.

Across the ford, which becomes impassable during the winter, lay a few more tavernas and bars and the Blue Flag beach of Aragia, a long stretch of pale sand, white pebbles and clear water. The caves along the rocky coast-line between Aragia and Sami may be the last refuge on Kefalonia of the almost extinct Mediterranean Monk Seal.

A short walk from the central square, over a small hillock, lies Poros port where dock the large ferries connecting Kefalonia with Kyllini on the Peloponnese part of mainland Greece (and, sometimes, directly with Italy). An extension to the port, opened during the summer of 2008, enables two ferries to be in port simultaneously and the extra room created has made Poros even more popular with yachtsmen.

On the cliffs above the new quay are two tavernas with tremendous views across Poros (especially romantic of an evening) while two more tavernas and a few bars (and a mini-market) ring the ‘old’ harbour where the local fishing boats and small tour boats mingle with visiting yachts.

High in the hills above the port lies the Drakaina cave, inhabited in pre-historic times, and the remains of an ancient citadel, probably pre-dating the Mycenaean era. Across the Vohinas, high on the opposite hill, is the Atros monastery, dating back to around 800 AD. Just through the gorge, on the edge of Tzanata village, a well preserved Mycenaean tholos (beehive) tomb was discovered by local archaeologist and ex-mayor Makis Metaxas and his wife. Although previously looted by tomb raiders, virtually intact skeletal remains of a Mycenaean-era king were found lying in the tomb. This provoked claims that the mighty Odysseus, legendary king of Ithaka, had been found scientific testing suggests that the remains probably pre-date this great chieftain.

Poros is rich in history and legend: the Poros gorge was cut by Iraklis (Hercules) when he trod on, and flattened, this part of the mountain range. And just outside Poros, on the ‘new’ road to Skala (only surfaced as recently as 1996) is a long stretch of pebbly beach where locals go spear-fishing. Just off the beach lie a number of large, almost mushroom-shaped, rocks – thrown by the Cyclops at pirates attacking the island. (OK, if you don’t believe in the Cyclops, take a look at ancient Krani, outside Argostoli – built by the Cyclops).

During British rule an attempt was made to revitalise the villages outside of Poros by importing Maltese farmers. Most, if not all, returned home.

In the early ’80’s Poros was the first to welcome organised tourism when a French cruise ship called in. Following this, British package companies regularly brought tourists to Poros until the late nineties, when Skala became more popular.

During July and August Poros bursts into life with Greek – and Greek American – visitors keen to re-experience Greek island lifestyle in an almost totally Greek environment. For, apart from a handful of Czech visitors, Poros is free of package tourism and, out of peak season, remains a relaxed backwater favoured by discerning independent travellers, many of whom return year after year, warmly welcomed back by genuinely friendly locals.The relaxed, friendly atmosphere and mostly flat terrain make Poros ideal for mature visitors and a pleasure for all.

POST OFFICE

Stamps - grammatoseemo - are available from the Post Office – in Greek it's the taki-thro-meon – and postcards, etc, can be posted here. On most islands the main post office (often the only post office) will exchange Travellers Cheques and bank notes. On Kefalonia the main Post Office is on Lithostroto, the main pedestrian precinct in Argostoli. There’s also a post office in Lixouri, Poros, Sami and Fiskardo and a sub-post office in Skala (none do exchange). Look for the yellow ΕΛΤΑ sign. Post Offices are usually open from 07:30 – 14:00 Monday to Thursday, close 13:30 Fridays.

Stamps can also be bought locally, usually where you buy your postcards or groceries, and most resorts will have a post box - look for a yellow box mounted on a pole, it will have a post horn and the word ΕΛΤΑ stencilled on it. Post-cards to the UK are notoriously slow to arrive, especially if posted in resort where there may be only one or two collections and deliveries a week.

QUEUES

The British concept of queuing doesn’t apply in Greece, especially rural Greece where there’s rarely any rush. Recently the bigger branches of banks and post offices have introduced the numbered ticket system, which seems to work quite well, but it can be a bit galling if you’ve been patiently waiting for a bus, only to be suddenly submersed in a scrum by a gaggle of Greek grannies with a surprising turn of speed and far too fearsome to be tackled – the ‘all-blacks’ always win! Just a traditional part of the Greek way of life.

The queue system does apply at e.g. Kefalonia airport and for car ferries, etc.

RIDING

The Bavarian Horse Riding Stables are based just off the Argostoli-Sami road in Zervata, near Sami. The horses are rock solid and well cared for, the stables offer a variety of treks from one hour to seven-day holidays as well as lessons from basic riding up to competition standard. For more information phone Cornelia on (0030) 6977 533203

SAILING by JollyRoger

The Ionian Sea has much to offer the yachtsman, with winds being generally less demanding than the Aegean.

The Ionian, with its tideless waters and comparatively settled weather patterns, eliminates many of problems of sailing in other areas of the world. The scenery is magnificent, the summer weather is usually perfect and harbours and anchorages are always within an easy day’s sail.

Navigation is normally of the eye-ball variety with land nearly always in sight, although a summer heat haze can sometimes restrict visibility to a few miles. Around much of Kefalonia the land rises steeply from the sea, so the yachtsman can usually venture close to shore and be sure of deep water. Due to the clear waters any signs of shallow water are easily detected. A deep blue colour is a sign of deep water, deep green means less deep but safe, light green means extreme care and brown water allows close inspection of molluscs on the sea bed! It should be mentioned that many charts are based on surveys carried out during the 19th century and with the super accuracy of GPS, the location of a reef or cape can disagree with the chart position by up to a mile!

The prevailing wind during the beginning of June to end of September period is from the north west. Mornings are usually calm with the wind arriving about midday and usually blowing at F3 to F5. This will die down in the evening and allows the yachtsman to motor northwards in the morning if he so desires, sail in the afternoon and then have a peaceful anchorage for the evening and night.

Winds tend to at their strongest during July and August and the presence of thick cloud on the mountain tops indicates a strong blow. Gales can very occasionally occur in spring and autumn with a strong blow from the south.

Kefalonia has been slow to capitalise on this popular sport, but over recent years many more facilities have been built, so to circumnavigate the island or simply use as a transit, has become far easier. In addition to the old favourite destinations of Fiskardo, Assos and Agia Efimia, new harbours or marinas have been constructed at Lixouri, Sami, Svoronata, and Argostoli. Better facilities are planned for Poros and a new harbour is almost completed at Katelios.

There are companies who offer bareboat charter for the experienced sailor and many choices of flotilla holidays for the less experienced, or those who prefer the company of other boats, e.g.

sunsail.co.uksea-trek.co.uksailingholidays.comionianbluesailing.co.uk

SAFE SEX

Condoms are widely available from the farmakeio and grocery shops – ask for profilaktiká, or condoms, as most pharmacists speak English. Go for well-known brands such as Durex or Mates as these tend to be more reliable than unknown ‘foreign’ brands.

SAMI

Sami, on the east coast of Kefalonia facing Ithaka, played the leading role on the island for many years of in the early history of Kefalonia. Remains of the ancient citadel can be found on the acropolis to the south-east of present Sami, near the Agios Fanentes monastery on the way to AntiSamos. At this time Kefalonia was not one entity but divided into four self-governing city-states: Same (Sami), Pronnoi, Krani and Palliki.

These ancient cities minted their own coins and conducted their own ‘foreign’ policy, e.g. Sami’s participation in the Trojan War. The administrative areas still exist today, somewhat the same, although the Kallikratis changes have merged the former local municipalities into one whole-island municipality.

The large, natural, safe harbour offered an ideal trading and military base between western Europe and the East and so the Roman Empire made acquisition of the island a main priority. Only the city-state of Sami offered much resistance, yielding in 188 BC after a four-month siege. During the Roman occupation Sami benefited from the construction of elaborate public and private buildings, supplied by aqueducts, and a breakwater around the harbour.

Following the demise of the Roman Empire, Sami remained an important port but, under Venetian rule, the fortress of Agios Georgios, outside Argostoli, became the capital of the island until the threat of marauding pirate attacks receded. Then, in 1757, Argostoli became the principal trading centre and capital.

Over the last decade or so, Sami has become something of a cultural capital of Kefalonia. Every summer Sami hosts the Eortia, the Sami Festival of performing and visual arts, featuring an extensive and impressive international array of talent alongside the work of local artists.

Present-day Sami is the island’s second busiest port, connecting Kefalonia with nearby Ithaka and with mainland Greece on both sides of the Gulf of Corinth, mostly importantly with Patras, the third largest city in Greece. In the high summer season Sami also connects Kefalonia with Corfu and various Italian ports via regular ferry services.

The marina facilities attract a number of private and flotilla yachts and the large harbour attracts a number of cruise boats. In May, 2008 the Queen Elizabeth II called in for the first (and last) time before she retired.

As a working town Sami offers all the usual facilities for daily living: post office, medical centre, grocery and gift shops, tour and car hire offices in addition to tavernas, bars and hotels.

Between Sami and Karavomylos is a narrow beach, mostly pebbly but with clear, clean water and it’s a pleasant stroll from Sami, along the footpath, to the taverna by the duck pond and back.

Four kilometres either side of Sami are better beaches; to the south the stunning white pebble beach of AntiSamos, the hills and valley behind it covered with deep green pine trees, while to the north is the small but pleasant Agia Paraskevi beach.

Today, Sami’s main claim to fame is as the location for the filming of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, based on the novel by Louis de Bernières. Based on the Venetian architecture still to be found in Corfu old town, present-day Sami (mainly the area from the port entrance to the Hotel Kastro) was very realistically transformed to resemble pre-war Argostoli.

When the filming finished the sets had to be removed but many of the locations, such as AntiSamos beach, the remains of the old village of Dikhalia and the monastery of Agia Fanentes, can easily be visited.

Also within easy reach of Sami are three of Kefalonia’s fascinating natural phenomena: the huge Drogarati cavern, the subterranean Melissani lake and the pond at Karavómilos, the latter two naturally fed by seawater from Argostoli.

SKALA

Skala is fast becoming the preferred resort on Kefalonia for many visitors and it’s not difficult to see why. A four kilometre stretch of sandy beach, with a bit of shingle here and there, plenty of very modern tourist accommodation and a lively village provide what many people want from a holiday. Add in the natural beauty Kefalonia has to offer and Skala is a pretty perfect holiday destination for many.

Originally a small, agricultural hill village, Skala was destroyed in the earthquake of 1953. A new village was built, around 1956, in the Mi'Abeli ("my vineyard") area near the beach. Agriculture and fishing remained the lifeblood of the village until the 1980’s and 90’s when Skala ‘new’ village, running up the hill from the beach, became quietly popular with visitors looking for a beach holiday with a more authentic ‘village’ atmosphere than purpose-built Lassi.

As Kefalonia’s popularity as a tourist destination increased, Skala was willing and able to meet demand and, over the last few years, Skala has expanded onto the narrow but wide plain along the beach and up along the cliffs leading towards Poros.

The remains of Old Skala can still be found dotted around the hillside above the ‘new’ village and, for fifty years, lay as a memorial to the tragic events of 1953. Recent demand for villa holidays has resulted in the construction, in sympathetic style, of many luxurious holiday villas in Old Skala and the track up to the village has been surfaced for easier access.

Although the comfortable modern tourist complexes mostly offer pool and restaurant facilities, Skala beach and village remain the focal point, where Italian and Chinese food can be found in addition to the many Greek tavernas. Fans of British beer and football won’t be disappointed, either.

Stone Age remains were discovered in the Sakkos cave, near the end of the beach and culture vultures can easily view the remains, near the small fishing harbour in the area of Agios Georgios outside Skala, of three Doric columns beside the foundation stones of a small temple dedicated to the god Apollo by ancient sailors.

Also, just on the edge of the village, can be found remains of a Roman villa, dating to the 2nd century AD and excavated in 1957, with three well preserved mosaic floors. The villa is thought to have been destroyed by fire around two hundred years after construction and an Early Christian church was erected on the remains. This, too, was consumed by fire and later replaced by the church of Agios Athanasios. All of which indicates that the Brits were not the first to discover this delightful area.

Today Skala offers something for everyone, including tour and car hire offices, estate agencies, three doctors and two cash point machines, as well as the usual grocery and gift shops, a sub-post office, etc.

SNAKE FESTIVAL

Kefalonia is famous for the annual Snake Festival, held in the village of Markopoulo, above Katelios, on the evening of 14 August and the morning of 15 August. Legend has it that once there was a convent at Markopoulo and the nuns, afraid of pillaging pirates, prayed to the Virgin to be saved. God turned the nuns into small snakes (odd choice, but who are we to debate it?) and they were spared. Every year, just before the Festival of the Virgin Mary, holy snakes with a black cross on their head return to the church at Markopoulo and ascend the bell tower.

Such is the popularity of this occasion that Greeks from all over the world visit and Markopoulo is transformed from a very sleepy little hamlet in to the place to be. Market stalls line the narrow lane down to the church and parked cars stretch along both sides of the main Argostoli-Poros road for a considerable distance in both directions.

Undoubtedly, any snakes in the vicinity would be trampled underfoot so they are rescued in advance by the locals and taken in to the church for sanctuary. Needless to say, the tiny church is crammed full with visitors wishing to see the safe return of the snakes, for if the snakes don’t appear it is a very bad omen: only twice in recent history have the snakes not appeared: the year of the AXIS occupation and in 1953, when the devastating earthquake occurred.

An event not to be missed!

Please note: most snakes on Kef are timid and harmless

The Markopoulo snakes are a sub-species of the European Cat Snake, for anyone interested in herpetology, the following have been seen on Kefalonia (list via www.euroherp.com):

SnakesCaspian whipsnakeEuropean Cat SnakeFour-lined SnakeGrass SnakeLeopard Snake / European RatsnakeMontpellier snakeSand Viper / Sand Adder

Lizards & geckosBalkan Green LizardBalkan Wall Lizard / Skyros Wall LizardBlue-throated Keeled LizardEuropean common geckoEuropean copper skink / European Snake-eyed skinkEuropean Legless Lizard / SheltopusikGreek lizardKefalonian / Peloponnese Slow WormEuropean Bent-toed Gecko / Kotschy’s GeckoMediterranean House Gecko / Turkish Gecko

NewtsCommon Newt / Smooth Newt

Frogs & ToadsEuropean green toadEuropean toad / Common toadEuropean tree frogMarsh Frog

Terrapins, Tortoises, TurtlesEuropean pond terrapinStriped-neck terrapin / Western Caspian turtleHermann's TortoiseLoggerhead turtles

SMOKING

Smoking is now prohibited in all indoor public places and in cars if children (under age 13) are present. The spot fines are quite high. ‘Kiosks’ outside tavernas and bars are not classed as indoors if they aren’t enclosed at the sides.

SUN

Helios, the Greek sun-god, smiles on Greece every day through-out the summer months and many people come to worship, prostrating themselves before him on beaches and around pools.

The sun is strongest in the afternoon (hence the Greeks take siesta) and, even when there’s a refreshing breeze, the sun can burn – so sun protection is recommended, especially for those unaccustomed to such wonderful weather. Don’t forget, some sun creams need to be applied up to two hours before exposing yourself and then again after swimming.

And if you think that charming person you met in the bar last night is talking about you, well, you probably just forgot to put some sun cream on your ears!

TAVERNAS

If it’s your first visit to Greece you’re in for a treat – Greek food is a delight and, for most visitors, experiencing the laid-back taverna lifestyle is very much a key part of their holiday. But be warned: Greece isn’t for dieting - the food is far too delicious!

The world's first known cookbook was written in Greek and, by the time of Alexander the Great, professional chefs in Athens had to undertake a two-year exam course. The excellence of Greek cuisine was such that Roman Emperors and officials took Greek chefs to Italy.

Athenaeus wrote The Banquet of the Learned around 200 A.D. and many of the meals described in his writings are still eaten today. During the Dark Ages, when Greece was occupied by the Ottoman Empire, culinary skills were preserved in monasteries where, when cooking, the monks wore a white version of their famous tall black hats - later adopted by chefs as a sign of their competence.

In the tourist resorts the tavernas tend to ‘cater for the British’ and you’ll find menus in Greek and English, maybe other languages as well. Don’t be surprised if the waiter appears with the menu and a basket of bread – this is traditional as the Greeks eat a fair amount of bread with their meals. It’s usual, but not obligatory, to have a starter and your main meal will usually be accompanied by chips and a small side salad or veg.

Occasionally you won’t be handed a menu, you’ll be invited in to the kitchen – not to inspect the place (remember Nelson and turn a blind eye) but to see what’s cooking. That’s really traditional and I’ve often found that the older the décor, the better the food.

If you want ‘traditional’ you can find it on Kefalonia but, usually, a little tucked away. Here’s an idea of what you might find:

As the Greeks tend to start work early and then siesta in the afternoon, they eat around midday and then, maybe, again late in the evening. Their belief is that hot food is unhealthy and Greeks tend to spend a long time over their meal, eating slowly and giving it time to digest. So, if your meal arrives lukewarm, that's traditional, not bad service (if you ask, "Zesto, parakalor" they will heat it up for you).

Most Brits expect their meals to come with chips and veg but, in traditional tavernas, if you order, e.g. Kefalonia Meat Pie then that’s what you’ll get. If you want chips, you order a plate of chips; if you want vegetables, you order a plate of horta, or whatever. You might also find that some terms are interpreted differently, e.g. a pork steak is what Brits call a pork chop. A beef steak will likely be rump, not sirloin and, generally, it's best to go for fillet steaks.

Vegetarianism as such isn’t widely practiced in Greece but, by tradition, Greeks eat a lot of vegetables – partly because when Greece and Greeks were pretty poor (as many still are) they would go out in to the hills and pick horta, a wild plant that looks a bit like dandelion leaves – sometimes known as blyta / vlyta on Kefalonia – a variety of horta.

Old habits die hard and, when you’re out and about, you might see a big new car parked by the side of the road and notice a little old lady nearby picking horta. Not only is it free, it’s pretty nutritious – a staple part of the traditional healthy Greek diet.

So, when Greeks go out for a meal they tend to want to eat meat – or seafood, which is more popular in Greece than in the UK. Being mostly surrounded by seas you might think that fish would be plentiful and cheap in Greece but the Med has been drastically over-fished by the big fleets from northern Europe and fish stocks are pretty precarious.

And while you might have a picture in your mind of what a lobster looks like there are different types of lobster and you’re likely to also see Spiny lobsters and Slipper lobsters on display in the cold cabinet. Equally as tasty (and equally as expensive). If you see the word ‘kat’ next to a menu item it doesn’t mean you’ll be served the cute, fluffy little thing you were feeding scraps to yesterday – it means the food has been frozen, e.g. fish.

Don’t forget that, in Greece, fish comes cooked as is – head, tail, eyes an’ all. Just ask the waiter when you order and the chef will fillet it for you, if required.

Greek menus can be quite entertaining, here’s some dishes I’ve seen on offer:

Lamp chops (lamb chops)Fried Aborigines (fried aubergines)Kiss Lauren (quiche lorraine)Pig spit (pig on the spit)Geek salad (served with small chips?)Bold vegetables (boiled vegetables)Sea buss (yup, runs between Poros - Skala - Katelios)Scrabbled eggs (a bit wordy)Hamburber (too many scrabbled eggs?)

The wine list can be equally… interesting…

A wine bottled and labelled (in Greek) as ‘Plagies of Ainos’ was translated into English as ‘Plagues of Enos’

And it’s a bit scary when it says “all the wine has been passed by the management”…

Bear in mind that most Greek tavernas in the UK are Greek-Cypriot and that their cuisine is slightly different to what you’ll find on offer in Greece, e.g. houmous, haloumi and Keo are Cypriot specialities. A meze in a Greek taverna in the UK means a huge mixture of dishes, in Greece a mezethes is a small plate of olives / gavros / squid / pistachios to accompany a glass of ouzo. In some tavernas you might see pikilia on the menu – something (vaguely) like what Brits think of as meze.

Greek mezethes are typically served in the kafeneion, the ‘coffee shop’, the Greek version of a working men’s club, but without the comedians and strippers (sorry girls!) By custom(er) only, these are all male preserves where tavli (backgammon) is played and ouzo (and coffee) is consumed along with mezethes.

Nowadays the distinctions are getting somewhat blurred, especially in the tourist areas but, traditionally and maybe still in rural areas, there was/is specialisation:

a taverna served dishes cooked in the oven, such as mousaka, pastitsio, stifado, youvetsi and kreatópita (Kefalonian Meat Pie) – a good example is Patsouras in Argostoli

a pseestaria specialises in grilled meats, such as kontosouvli, souvla, pansetta, ‘chops’ and kokoretsi (now banned but still available in certain places).

a souvlatzidiko specialises in souvlakia and yiros pita;

a psarotaverna specialises in seafood, usually priced per kilo - go in and watch it being weighed, as the Greeks do.

Traditionally, none would serve sweets (desserts), for that you would go to a zakharoplasteio, where you’d find baklava, kadaifi, galaktobouriko, etc.

While you’re out and about you might come across a khasapotaverna, a pseestaria attached to a butcher’s shop, e.g. in Agia Eirini, although it now functions as an ouzeri / mezedhopoleio, which serve ouzo, barrelled wine, coffee, and mezethes. And quite possibly you’ll come across an estiatorio - an ‘upmarket taverna’, or restaurant.

Kali orexi – enjoy your meal (I’m sure you will).

Your diet can wait ‘til you get back home!

TAXIS

Athens taxis are invariably yellow, city taxis mostly maroon and local taxis grey. Generally, taxis are fairly plentiful but, at peak times, e.g. in the evening and on airport days, they can be in great demand. Taxi sharing is quite normal so, if you’re wanting a taxi and you see one going in the right general direction, hail it – if there’s room the driver will take you. You’ll still pay the normal fare, as will the other passengers, but you won’t still be stood around waiting. Either agree the price beforehand or, better still, ensure the meter is running. On Kefalonia the taxi drivers tend not to use the meter, rather they have set charges for, e.g: Airport - Skala, Skala – Katelios, etc. There’s a small additional charge for taxis working from the rank at airports and also for large amounts of luggage. By law, taxi drivers are now required to issue a printed receipt.

TELEPHONES

Card-phones are quite widely available, the most common are supplied by OTE (the Greek equivalent of BT) but phones from other suppliers also exist. Generally, the OTE phones are good value and regular OTE phone-cards are readily available from the periptero (kiosks) and grocery shops, etc. To get instructions displayed in English when using a card-phone, press the key marked ‘i ’. To call a UK number, dial 0044 and then omit the leading '0' from the number. UK mobile phones should work in Greece, depending on your service supplier, and top-up cards may be available locally. Bear in mind that Kefalonia is very mountainous and some places are like the Twilight Zone for cell phones, e.g. around Skala.

TIPS

Here’s a great tip – leave the waiter or waitress in the taverna or bar the customary 10% tip and you can be pretty sure of attentive service again next time.

TOURS

While you’re on Kefalonia there’s a variety of organised days out which offer you an easy way to get the most out of your holiday .Most tour companies offer similar programs but there is variation in the tours and the prices.

Kefalonia Island Tour

An ideal introduction to Kefalonia, the itinerary varies from tour company to tour company but on most you will visit these key sites: Agios Gerasimos monastery, Robola Co-operative Winery, Drogarati cave, Melissani underground lake, Myrtos and Assos (photo-stop on cliffs above), Fiskardo.

Ithaka Cruise

A great way to visit Váthi and Kioni and to see Ithaka’s mountainous coast-line is by boat: the Sami Star runs out of Sami, Captain Vangelis runs a boat (two in high season) from Skala and Poros - a very popular cruise that sells out in high season.

Kioni, via coach or boat

Ithaka Island Tour

The coach tours offer a rare opportunity to see the interior of this tranquil island and to hear about Odysseas between sightseeing in Váthi, the laid-back capital and Kioni, a beautiful little fishing port which rivals the more famous Fiskardo. In between, a stop in the village of Stavrós for rovani, a delicious local sweet.

Zakynthos Cruise

Zakynthos is but a boat ride away and Kefalonia offers a superb opportunity to see its two most famous attractions – the Blue Caves and Smugglers’ Wreck.

Beach BBQ on the Glass Bottom Boat

This is a fantastic fun day out for all the family, regardless of age. A great chance to see dolphins, a spot of champagne diving and snorkelling, volleyball on the seashore, a tasty barbecue cooked fresh on a beautiful beach, free rejuvenating mud pack and a bit of a sing-song on the way back – may sound a bit tacky to some but it’s actually great fun.

Volley ball on the Glass Bottom Boat beach BBQ

Onassis / Levkas / Three Islands Cruise

Cruise from Agia Efimia up through the straights between Kefalonia and Ithaka to Meganissi and the Papanikoli sea cave, one of the largest in Greece and where the Greek submarine, Papanikoli, evaded the Nazi fleet during WWII. See inside the cave then it’s off to Spartohori, a traditional hill village a little further along the coast. You can either climb the steps up to explore Spartohori or sit on the beach with a cool beer.

Next stop is Skorpios, once the private island of multi-millionaire shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis. Lately owned by his grand-daughter, Athina Onassis, rumours recently suggest it’s been bought by Giorgio Armani. The island is a private retreat but permission has been granted for the cruise guests to swim from the boat and sunbathe on one of Aristotle’s beaches.

Nidri, on Levkas, is the next port of call for lunch and sight-seeing. Facing the mountains of mainland Greece it appears as though you’re sitting on the rim of a huge lake, with white-sailed yachts plying between the fir-covered emerald green islands dotted between.

Most companies use the large, modern and comfortable Ikaros but some use a smaller boat. A great day out, either way, as dolphin-spotting is one of the great delights of this cruise and most days they will appear somewhere so here’s a tip: sit at the bow of the boat and when the dolphins come to race the boat you’ll be able to get some great photos in close-up.

Argostoli

An evening in Argostoli offers the opportunity to see the capital of Kefalonia at its best, when it’s cooler and calmer. On a morning Argostoli is very busy as everyone bustles about their business, afternoon is siesta time and most of the shops will be closed. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday nights the shops re-open between 17:00 – 22:00.

Most of the tours will give you about four hours in Argostoli, which should be ample for a bit of sight-seeing, shopping and a meal in any of the many tavernas. Best bet is probably to do the sight-seeing first when the light is at its best, then a bit of shopping and then eat.

For keen walkers there’s a pleasant walk around the coast to see the swallow-holes at Katovothres, maybe continuing on past the Fanari lighthouse to the rocky pit where the Italian soldiers were massacred by the Nazis. Take a left here and you’ll pass the Italian war memorial before heading back down to the Old Harbour of Argostoli. Or head out across the Drepano Bridge for a pleasant walk around the lagoon.

The Bell Tower, Capanile Square, Argostoli

Olympia

Temple to Philip of Makedon

TSIPOURO

Dating back to the times of Byzantium and borne out of extreme poverty, when nothing could be wasted, tsipouro (a.k.a. raki / tsikoudia / grappa / sourna) is produced in late autumn. After the grapes have been pressed and the vines pruned, the residue - the grape skins, seeds and stems and other ‘waste’ - are left to ferment in large vats before they are transferred to a large copper cauldron atop a stone furnace.

Depending on the area and the type of grapes grown there, various aromatic herbs, berries, roots or flowers may be added and over many hours it is distilled to make tsipouro, a clear spirit between 45-50 degrees proof and originally produced for private consumption and as a reward for those who helped in the communal grape harvest.

Although tsipouro is produced commercially, production remains mostly small-scale. Non-commercial production is exempt from alcohol taxes and is closely monitored by Customs and Excise who issue vine-growers with special 48-hour licences, the number of licences issued to each vineyard depends upon the acreage and quantity of grapes grown. Due to this short production period, and as the amount produced from the grape waste is relatively small, tsipouro production remains largely traditional and much of the equipment dates back generations.

Tsipouro is produced in several places on Kefalonia and is available inexpensively, in 1.5 litre plastic water bottles, from e.g. Kostas at the greengrocer’s in Poros (while stocks last).

VERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Anyone who works with tourists in Greece tends to be asked pretty much the same questions. Frequently. So here are some of the (polite) answers:

Q. How long have you been here?A. In our case, since 2001. Permanently since 2002.

Q. What brought you here?A. We'd visited many islands on holidays and long wanted to live in Greece. An opportunity arose so we took it.

Q. Do you like it?A. Yes, it’s a beautiful island, the locals are friendly and the sun shines almost every day.

Q. What’s it like in winter?A. Well, it can be cold, wet and damp. But not like the UK.

Q. What do you do in the winter?A. As little as possible. Unless you’re a builder or goat-herder there isn’t much work in the winter. Most people who work in the summer work very long hours, seven days a week, so in the winter we relax and refresh ourselves, do little jobs that couldn’t get done in the summer, meet up with friends we haven't seen all summer, maybe pick some olives and... enjoy the peace.

Q. How much does it cost to buy a house / land?A. Depends what you want and whereabouts. Probably best to look in the real estate agents in Argostoli.

Q. What are the little boxes by the road side?A. Shrines, either to people who passed away at that spot, or as thanks to God for a miraculous escape.

Q. Why are the trees painted white?A1. Tradition. I’ve asked various locals and always got a different answer, none of which make much sense:A2. To stop the insects eating the trees: they crawl or fly above the paint line;A3. To stop the goats eating the trees: they stand on their hind legs, or on a car bonnet;A4. So drivers can see the trees at night: er, what about the ones in the middle of the olive grove? And so on...

Q. Aren't you lucky!?!A. Yes, in the sense we didn't have anything preventing us from moving to Greece. We did some research, thought it over, made the decision and did it. It doesn't suit everyone but, overall, we're quite content with life in Greece.

WALKING

Kefalonia is still largely undeveloped and vast expanses of ‘untrod’ countryside await those wanting to explore by foot. However, getting reliable, up-to-date information about footpaths and tracks isn’t easy and, from what I’ve read, there aren’t any really useful maps available for walkers.

Leaflets produced by the local municipalities are sometimes available, such as the one detailing the beautiful walk through the fir trees from Tsikarisiano to Ainos, but aren’t always widely and may be simply re-printed year-to-year without taking in to account events, e.g. the fire which swept through Elios- Pronnoi region in July 2007 destroyed several of the bridges on the Pastra-Katelios walk and, so far as I’m aware, they’re still down as other work was more essential.

There are also some good pamphlets produced locally by Jean Baker, e.g. the Pastra – Katelios walk, an Old Skala walk, etc, available from some of the local shops and peripteros. Also available (in the UK if not on Kefalonia) is Walk and Eat Kefalonia. Not yet available as an ebook.

Below is some information from the Municipality of Sami and published in a well-produced and informative small booklet entitled ‘Information Guide’, available from the Sami Tourist Office just behind the main port:

Hiking trail: Sami – Acropolis – AntiSamos

Follow the special signs (yellow marks on the trees and red on the rocks) and walk around the whole archaeological area of Sami, ending up at the beautiful AntiSamos beach. The path begins above the old parish church of Sami, where you will find a sign giving information. The entire walk should take you about eighty minutes and will lead you through dense greenery with wonderful views of Sami and Ithaka. The walk is of great natural and historical interest, a leaflet with instructions on the route is published by the Municipal Council. The route can be broken up into three parts:

1. Sami – Ag. Fanentes / Kyatis (40 minutes)2. Sami – main ancient acropolis (20 minutes)3. To AntiSamos beach (20 minutes)

WATER

Tap water on Kefalonia is quite safe to drink but it may have a different taste to what you are familiar and you may prefer to buy water that’s been bottled at one of Greece’s many natural springs. This is widely available in the grocery shops at little expense.

On the islands it’s not uncommon to see locals filling water containers at springs, e.g. at Vrisi (literally, ‘spring’) in the village square at Tzanata, near Poros. In the village of Hionata the old wash house, on the road to Katelios, has been preserved for prosperity. Although Kefalonia is well blessed with water the supplies can run low in summer so please don’t waste water.

I remember one elderly lady visitor who refused to buy bottled water because it was a ‘funny colour'. I explained that many grocery shops sell wine ‘from the barrel’ in plastic water bottles. After this we noticed she consumed quite a lot of bottled ‘water’. Yiamas!

WATER SPORTS

Water sports can be great fun but just be aware that some insurance policies classify some water sports as ‘high risk’ and won’t cover you for any personal injury costs resulting from participation. If you’ve got full cover, and are satisfied that the activity and equipment is safe, you can try a variety of water sports on Kefalonia, e.g. wind-surfing, jet-ski, snorkelling and scuba diving - but don’t forget: you shouldn’t scuba dive within 24 hours of flying.

WEATHER

Once in a while May, September and October can be a bit unpredictable but, generally, you’ll enjoy long, sunny days on kefalonia. For a Kef weather record chart and daily forecasts, see GoingGreek.info - Kefalonia News & Weather

WEDDINGS

How romantic to get married on an idyllic Greek island, where the weather is (all but) guaranteed to be good! Well, it’s not impossible although, unless you’re of the faith, you won’t be able to get married in a Greek Orthodox church. Nevertheless, it is possible to have a civil wedding and, with a little effort and information provided by the municipality of Argostoli, you may be able to organise your own wedding. In practical terms, it’s a lot easier and more reliable to have it arranged for you and some of the tour operators offer wedding packages. Usually, you can holiday any-where on the island but the wedding will be in Argostoli. There are several local wedding organisers who will offer you much more flexibility, see www.GoingGreek.info ¨

WILDLIFE

Greece has a variety of wildlife, including wild bears and wolves in the mountains of northern Greece, the kri-kri on Crete, wild deer on Rhodes and the endangered Mediterranean Monk Seal in the seas around Alónissos.

Kefalonia remains home to a smaller variety of wildlife, much of which is rarely seen. This is particularly so of the Mediterranean Monk Seal. Over-fishing has resulted in a diminishing food supply and tourist expansion on the sandy beaches where they raise their pups has led to an alarming decline in population. By nature they return to the same place to rear their pups, today they often have to retreat to isolated sea caves. Of all wildlife in Europe, the Mediterranean Monk Seal is the most likely to become extinct and is now so endangered that there may well be none left in the Ionian seas, despite glossy claims designed to appeal to tourists. There appears to be no active efforts to preserve the Mediterranean Monk Seals on Kefalonia and no up-to-date information.

Loggerhead turtles and Green turtles are also under threat from tourism. Loggerheads depend upon the sandy southern beaches of Zakynthos and Kefalonia to lay their eggs. The slow moving turtles are susceptible to injury from motorboats while swimming and eggs can be destroyed if, e.g. beach umbrellas are driven deep in to the sand. Rather than risk disturbing a nesting turtle on the beach, go to Argostoli if you want to see them. In the morning the little fishing boats sell their catch on the quayside and the turtles turn up for a free breakfast of fresh fish scraps.

Tortoises & terrapins are quite common in the wild in rural Greece. Although to be found on Kefalonia they are quite timid and are rarely seen. It’s illegal to try to smuggle them back to the UK and it’s also best not to handle them as they can all carry salmonella and loggerhead turtles crack crab shells with their jaws.

Geckos & lizards are quite common and similar in appearance. The lizards tend to be olive green and come out during the day whereas geckos are cream-coloured, rather more bulbous and are creatures of the night. Both are totally harmless and Greeks think it lucky to have one in the house as they catch and eat flies. While you’re out and about you may catch sight of a large Green Lizard and, around the wet lowlands, you may come across the four-foot long – but totally harmless – Glass Lizard, which resembles a brown snake.

Quite likely you’ll see many butterflies, such as Swallow Tails, Clouded Yellows and Painted Ladies – all of which were once quite common in the U.K.

Up on Mount Aenos, near the tiny monastery above the village of Arginia, you might see the small herd of hardy wild ponies, claimed by some to be descendants of the original wild horses of Thrace. You might also see a variety of amazing bird life: Griffon vultures, Eleonora’s Falcon, buzzards, goshawks, the black woodpecker and the white-backed woodpecker, the huge eagle-owl... all may still be seen on and around Kefalonia.

WINE

Greece has a wine-making tradition stretching back to Dionysos, he who roamed around the Greek world indulging in drunken orgies with his groupies, the Maenads. (Ah, those were the days – just like last summer in Skala… I remember it… not!). Having practised the art for over 5000 years, Greece produces some wonderful, if little known, wines. Koutakis, Tsantalis and Cambas are among the most well-known brands.

Vine cultivation on Kefalonia dates back at least 3,500 years as, according to Homer’s Odyssey, Laertes bestowed fifty different grape varieties on his son, Odysseus.

Today, forty eight of these varieties are still cultivated in Kefalonia’s vineyards, the most well-known of which is Robola.

Virtually unique to Kefalonia, it’s one of the finest Greek white wines, awarded VQRPD status and exported widely. The main growing area is in and around the Omala Valley, a high, flat plain towards the centre of the island where the largest producer, the Robola Cooperative Winery is located.

Every August two very popular Robola wine festivals are held, one in Valsamata and one in Frangata, the main villages in Omala; one the weekend before the festival of Agios Gerasimos and one the weekend after.

While Kefalonia is famous for the dry, white Robola, the rather rare red Mavrodaphne grape is also grown, particularly over on the Palliki peninsular. This produces a dry red wine, rich in colour, with a hint of cherry and wild berry flavours. Sometimes this wine is vinified to produce a sweet desert wine, very similar to Mavrodaphne of Patras which is readily available in the UK. AOC status Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia is quite hard to find and if you do come across any Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia, check the label – you might find it’s been produced on Corfu.

The centre of the Palliki wine region is centred around Mantzavinata, between Lixouri and Xi beach, and a wine festival is held annually in August. As you drive through the village of Mantzavinata towards Xi keep a lookout for a very small and very old winery in the middle of a small row of old shops on the left. More recent is the Foivos Winery in nearby Vouni.

Of course, a lot of wine is still made locally and often not bottled but sold ‘from the barrel’ at bargain prices in shops and tavernas… and very drinkable it is, too!

Retsina, of course, is the most famous Greek wine although it’s never been as popular on Kefalonia as in other parts of Greece – presumably due to the excellence of the Robola! The ancient Greeks exported their wines widely and the usual theories are that pine resin was added to preserve the wine, or that it was used to seal the tops of vases and leaked in, thus tainting the wine. However, my favourite explanation is this:

In the fifth century BC, Xerxes, king of all Persia, wanted to add Greece to his empire. He had already defeated all the other Greek city-states and only Athens remained unconquered. The wooden city walls had been burnt and the people evacuated – now he was ready to take the city.

Only 300 Greek ships under the command of Athens stood before his 1200 ships and subjugation.

Not being able to take all their worldly goods with them, the Athenians planned, literally, to sour the Persian victory by adding pine resin to the wonderful wine they produced.

However, against all the odds, and thanks to the brilliance of Themistokles, the Greeks defeated the Persians in the straits of Salamis. Raising their glasses to toast Themistokles, they sipped their wine and said…

“*****’ ‘***, what’s this? Oh what the ’eck, it’ll be alright when we’ve ’ad a few.”

Which they did, and continue to do.

OK, so it maybe it’s not true.

But I like it. Good story, too.

Some of Kefalonia’s vineyards are open to visitors for wine tasting, these times may still be correct but may change, best to phone and check in advance:

Robola Cooperative Winery, Omala Valley07:00 – 20:30, Monday – Friday, May – October 07:00 – 15:00, Monday – Friday, November – AprilTelephone: 26710 86301

Metaxas Wine Estate, Mavrata10:30 – 14:30, Monday – Friday, May – October, or by appointmentTelephone: 26710 81292

Divino Winery. Pessada10:00 – 20:00, Monday – Sunday, June – SeptemberTelephone: 26710 69190

Gentili Winery, Minies10:30 – 14:30 & 17:30 – 20:30, Monday – Saturday, June – SeptemberTelephone: 26710 41618

Foivos Winery, Vouni, Palliki11:00 – 13:00 & 19:00 – 20:00, Monday – Friday, April – OctoberTelephone: 26710 29505

Menousis Winery, Omala ValleyTelephone: 26710 86150

Yiamas!

Have a great holiday on Kefalonia!

Kefalonia Guide © Maik @ www.GoingGreek.info