jStyle vol13.2015

The Heart and Soul

of Japan

Traditions / Travel - Ski Resorts of JapanSubcultures / Gourmet / Living in Japan

Venture beyond the well-trodden pathsAn insider's guide to the culture and hidden gems in the land of the rising sun

jnto_jstyle.indd 2 14.11.26 10:04:06 PM

Prologue

Contents

Wagashi 6

Joiningthefestivities 10

Fashion 14

Art 16

RediscoveringJapan 18

WellbeingTourism 20

EchigoYuzawa 27

Hakkaisan 32

Myoko 33

Nozawa 34

Hakuba 36

ShigaKogen 37

Yudanaka 38

Nagano(City) 40

Matsumoto 39

Niseko 42

ThePowderBelt 44

Sapporo 46

ReportfromSapporo 48

TheroadtoSakeenlightenment 50

Travelreports 52

Traveltips 54

Cookinganimereview 58

Food 62

Stay,LearningJapanese 68

Sharehouse 73

Trivia 74

Japaneseconversationvocaburary 76

EventCalendar2015 78

Sake 66

RecipesstraightfromMangas 60

NIIGATA

NAGANO

HOKKAIDO

Rediscovery

Travel-SkiResortsofJapan 24

Travel-HowtoTravel

Subcultures

Gourmet

LivinginJapan

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issue.13 01

Editorial prologue tojStyle magazine

When you think about Japan, what comes to mind? The bustle of metropolitan Tokyo? The gardens and temples of Kyoto? Or perhaps the famous ski resorts? As we all know, what tourists see of a country can often be very different from the local perspective, and that some of the best gems can be found away from the tourist trail. This issue of jStyle aims to look beyond the surface of Japan, into the details and hidden corners know and loved by the locals. For that added local perspective, we have also included a number of highly practical guides for those planning longer term stays.Start your journey in the ancient capitol,

Kyoto, where we explore the history and culture behind the elaborate Japanese traditional confectionary known as wagashi. Intrinsically tied to the Japanese sense of seasons, nature, and aesthetics find the most authentic ways to experience this delicious heritage for yourself.Then uncover the surprising relationship between Kyoto and surfing, before going on a whirlwind journey to a distinctly Mediterranean part of Okayama, and an island that doubles as an outdoor art gallery.For the artistically-minded, we explore the nooks and crannies of Tokyo to reveal its various art galleries, with some gems hidden underground or in unassuming spaces. With JTA JNTO

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Japan's long cultural history, there is art for everyone, whether you prefer the traditional Japanese arts, or the cutting edge, grass-roots work of contemporary artists.While in Tokyo, dive into the intricacies of Japan's street fashion with an exploration of the hottest brands and trends. Investigate the thriving subcultures and designs behind the vibrant Harajuku Girls, and have a peek at the boutiques and stores where the hip fashionistas do their shopping - and where you too can pick up a unique design piece, and perhaps a bargain.For those hoping to experience more traditional Japanese culture during their travels, don't look past our handy article

on how you can join the locals in the matsuri festivities, and how you can prepare yourself to get the most out of your matsuri experience.If you are planning to work or study in Japan, we are sure you will learn some cool new tricks for picking up and improving your Japanese language skills in this issue. Our on-the-ground guide will also be invaluable for anyone looking for short-, mid- and long-term accommodation options. And whether you are a short term visitor or an aspiring local, our guide to travelling in Japan will have you smoothly navigating Japan's ultra-efficient public transport system in no time - and save

money while doing so.Speaking of saving money, our 10-point checklist of tried-and-true local tricks to living on a budget in Tokyo will help you extend your stay, and avoid draining your bank account too quickly.And finally, for the gourmands amongst us, we have useful tips for extracting maximum enjoyment from various Japanese foods, and from that key essential, sake.The jStyle Editorial Team would like to thank everyone involved in putting this issue of jStyle magazine together, from our writers and translators, to our corporate sponsors, and the Japanese National Tourism Organization (JNTO).

issue.13 03

RediscoveryPrologue

Wagashi

The essence of Japanese tradition and aesthetics, distilled into a colourful, sweet confection that sits in the palm of your hand. Made from seasonal ingredients, and with designs that mirror the natural imagery of the season, wagashi is an edible reminder of simpler times, when life was tightly entwined with natural rhythms. In this feature, we look at the various types of wagashi, their significance, and how you can experience them for yourself while in Japan.

Matsuri

Exuberant, visually stunning, and filled with cultural significance, Japanese matsuri are not to be missed. Whether you are hoping to experience the nostalgia of simple shrine festivals, or a massive multi-day extravaganza of parades, this feature is your guide to planning and preparing for a safe and enjoyable matsuri experience.

Fashion

In Japan, the fashion found in the back streets of suburbia trickle upward to have a very real impact on the glitzy runways. Here, the divide between high fashion and street fashion is blurred, and styles evolve seemingly overnight. Come with us on a journey through the streets of Tokyo, as we explore a potpourri of fashion subcultures, and the cult-status niche brands that the fashionistas of Japan are going crazy over.

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Art

With high-flying international ties, a vibrant local creative scene, and plenty of tradition to draw on for inspiration, its little wonder that Tokyo is fast becoming a world-class art destination. This art is not just relegated to exclusive, large galleries ? it is in fact surprisingly accessible, if you know where to look. This feature highlights some of the art gems that can be found around Tokyo.

Rediscovering Japan

Step outside of the metropolitan areas of Japan and you will find abundant natural beauty. In this feature, we explore an island filled with art, and find surprising links between Kyoto and surfing, Okayama and the Mediterranean, and Nagoya and Italy.

Wellbeing

With thousands of years of wellness tradition, accompanied by a culture of hospitality and a philosophy espousing co-existence with nature, Japan is the perfect retreat for the world-weary. In this piece, we take a look at the oases of wellbeing on offer, whether you are seeking a good, restorative sleep, improved metabolism, holistic dental care, or the simple joys of a tea ceremony in a pristine environment.

issue.13 05

Wagashi

Japanese tradition and aesthetics on a plateSummer light filtering through green leaves. The moon reflected on a clear lake. Mount Fuji covered in cherry blossoms. Throughout history, these quintessentially Japanese images have been painted, written into poems - and painstakingly made into miniature artworks that are briefly admired, then eaten.Before Pocky, and before KitKat, Japan had wagashi. Literally "Japanese confections", wagashi includes familiar favourites like mochi rice cakes, dango, and manjuu, many of which can be found in Japanese grocery stores in Australia. But for the cultural explorer who dares venture beyond the usual tourist traps of Japan, the essence of wagashi awaits.

Yuichi Sakuraba

06 issue.13

Yu

ichi S

akurab

a

During the Edo period, in the ancient Japanese capital of Kyoto, wagashi developed from simple fruits and snacks into highly intricate sweets. These sweets became a key component of the Japanese tea ceremony, to be served alongside matcha green tea.As the tea ceremony is intimately connected with seasonal themes, the host carefully chooses elements that herald the arrival of seasonal changes. The wagashi served reflects this awareness of seasonality, shaped and poetically named to evoke flowers, leaves, fruits and natural scenery.

This sense of connectedness with nature is true down to the ingredients, which tend to be plant-based and seasonal - wagashi served in spring, for example, may be sakura-flavoured due to the availability of sakura leaves, while chestnut-based wagashi are common in autumn.Just as the tea ceremony represents the key aspects of Japanese culture, the wagashis shapes, colours, ingredients, scent and texture come together in an embodiment of Japanese aesthetics, acting as a bittersweet reminder of the passing of time.

Red i scov eRy WAGAsH i

issue.13 07

The wagashi associated with the tea ceremony are often called jogashi, of which there are three types: namagashi, hannamagashi and higashi.Namagashi, specifically the hand-shaped nerikiri, are the beautifully crafted confections that most people think of as wagashi. Made from a mixture of bean paste, sugar and rice dough, they are extremely perishable and are usually eaten on the same day.In summer months, agar-agar and kudzu are used to create namagashi that include

transparent jelly parts, creating a visual appearance of coolness.Less fragile are hannamagashi, soft sweets with lower levels of moisture that allow them to remain fresh for longer. Yokan, a well-known type of hannamagashi, are blocks of red bean paste, sugar and agar-agar which are sliced for serving.The third type of jogashi, higashi are dried sweets which include rakugan, a mixture of rice flour and powdered sugar which are pressed into moulds to form seasonal shapes.

Types of wagashi

Different wagashi for different occasions

Yuichi Sakuraba

Yuichi Sakuraba

Besides their role in tea ceremonies, wagashi are tied to the Japanese customs of gift giving. There are different types of wagashi associated with different celebrations and festivals. Here are just some of them:

1 January, New Year:Hanabiramochi (Flower petal cake) - white and pink rice cakes flattened into thin circles, layered onto each other, then folded in half. Wrapped up inside are miso-flavoured bean paste, and sticks of sweet boiled burdock.

3 March, Girls' Day:Sakura mochi - a sweet pink sakura-flavoured rice cake wrapped around red bean paste, and then itself wrapped with a pickled sakura leaf.Hishi mochi - a diamond-shaped rice cake consisting of three layers of red/pink, white and green.

5 May, Childrens Day:Kashiwa mochi - red bean paste in a white rice cake, served wrapped in an oak leaf. Some areas of Japan may fill the rice cake with miso-an white bean paste.Chimaki - a sweet glutinous rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaf, then steamed.

7 July, Tanabata (Star Festival):Ama no Gawa (Milky Way) - ingredients and designs vary according to the confectionary maker, but this is usually a jellied sweet with colours and motifs to reflect the Milky Way stretching across a night sky.


08 issue.13

Kyoto, the historical and cultural home of wagashi.

Tea ceremoniesExperience wagashi as originally intended, within the serenity and context of the tea ceremony. Paired as a counterpoint to the bitter matcha, the combination is sublime.

Where?

Tea Ceremony Room Juan: walk ten minutes from Kyoto Station to reach this authentic tea house. Ceremonies happen once every hour from 1pm to 5pm, and bookings are available online at http://www.teaceremonykyoto.com

Camellia: located between Gion and Kiyomizu Temple, Camellia offers a tea ceremony demonstration in English, and visitors have the chance to whisk their own bowl of matcha. Open 7 days from 10am to 5pm, reservations can be made via email or phone.http://www.tea-kyoto.com

StoresFor a less formal atmosphere, visit the artisanal wagashi stores. Many of these stores have long, distinguished histories and some feature cafes where you can enjoy their wagashi with tea.

Where?

Tsuruya Yoshinobu: On the second floor of this sweet shop in Kamigyo, Kyoto, visitors can observe a wagashi maker in action, demonstrating and describing the process for making seasonal namagashi. Predominantly Japanese language only.http://www.turuya.co.jp

Toraya: founded in the early 16th century, Toraya is one of the oldest and most famous of wagashi institutions. It has tea rooms and shops in Kyoto, Tokyo, and Shizuoka.http://www.toraya-group.co.jp

Yatsuhashi: a well-known shop for yatsuhashi. This triangular confectionary of rice dough, sugar and cinnamon is associated with Kyoto and is a popular souvenir item.http://www.8284.co.jp

Take a wagashi classIf you're more the hands-on type, you can get the whole immersive experience by taking a short class on making wagashi.

Where?

Kanshundo: in this 150 year old shop in Kyoto, a skilled artisan will show you how to make uiro (a steamed cake of rice flour and sugar), nerikiri, kinton and higashi. Of course, once you're done, you can enjoy your finished sweets with matcha.

Experiencing wagashi in Japan

Yu

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akurab

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issue.13 09

Joining the festivities

In Japan, festivals occur around the year, and across most regions. From the nostalgic En-nichi, which are street festivals held at shrines, to the most spectacular multi-day matsuri with their countless parades, portable shrines, fireworks and stalls, festivals are a great way to experience Japanese culture. At a festival, you can immerse yourself in tradition, mythology, and have a peek at the wilder side of the normally reserved Japanese.But what do you need to know when planning to attend a festival? How do you ensure you get the most out of your experience? H

irosaki

City

JNTO

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Yasufumi Nishi JNTO

Like any other travel planning, research is key. Most local areas in Japan have their own websites, so if you are planning to visit certain towns or regions, it's a good idea to look up their sites for schedules of upcoming events and festivals.Another good idea is to look up the websites of Shinto and Buddhist temples, as those will contain schedules for En-nichi and local festivals.If you are in Japan and you know the language, look out for announcements in the local newspapers and community notice boards.On the other hand, if you are hoping to plan your travel to coincide with a festival, there are many websites that provide schedules of festivals around Japan. Refer to the list of sites at the end of this article. We have also provided a handy guide to some of the best festivals around the year.

Finding a festivalto attend

Many festivals will have their own individual websites, easily found by entering the name of the event into a search engine. Some of the biggest festivals even have sites catering to English readers. On their sites, you can look up:- the schedule of events, including when the various parades and/or fireworks displays will occur- maps, including the planned route of the parades, recommended viewing spots, reserved seating areas, food and amenities, etc- information for people who may be planning to participate in the parades, including dress codes and procedures

Using this information, you can plan your visit around "must-see" events, locations of interest, and schedule rest periods. Some festivals like the Aomori Nebuta Festival have prepaid seats that can be booked well in advance, which can guarantee a good viewing spot without all the fuss.During your preparations, you should make sure you have packed enough cash for the day. Most attractions at the festivals run on a cash-only basis, including the food stalls.Also consider packing a picnic. This is especially useful if you have a schedule to stick to, because

it allows you to avoid the crowds and queues at the street stalls. That said, if you value the experience of getting traditional festival food from the stalls, you should budget your time and money accordingly.In terms of clothing, most Japanese go to festivals in their regular clothes, which means T-shirt and shorts in the summer when most festivals are held. Of course, you can opt to wear a yukata or kimono, but make sure that your clothes and footwear will be comfortable in a crowd and for spending long periods of time on your feet.

Preparing for a festival

Red i scov eRy Jo i n i ng t h e f est i v i t i e s

issue.13 11

Many Japanese festivals will have mikoshi (portable shrine) parades that are considered must-sees. Some of the parades have unique aspects (such as the massive floats of the Gion Matsuri) which you definitely will not want to miss.Some festivals have parades during the day and night. While the day-time parades tend to be quite exciting, make sure to stay for the night parades, which are a visual spectacle with lanterns, lights and fireworks.Consider participating in the parades yourself: many festivals allow visitors to join in the

dancing. But be aware that you may need to buy or rent the appropriate costumes to participate. There are also safety rules around participating in parades, such as not going against the flow of the march. Make sure you check the festival website or with the person in charge regarding the rules.Make sure to plan ahead and give yourself enough time to secure a good viewing spot for the fireworks at the designated viewing areas. Chairs are generally not allowed, but most locals use tarps or picnic blankets.You should also expect large crowds and lines at

the train stations, so use a Japan Rail Pass, PASMO or Suica prepaid card to skip the ticket lines.The common sense rules in crowded areas apply to festivals. Keep your belongs to a minimum, and if you are in a group, have a planned meeting location if you get separated, or a way to contact each other.

www.timeout.jp/en/tokyohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_festivalswww.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/festivals/www.japan-talk.com/jt/new/matsuri-listwww.japan-guide.com/e/e2063.html

Tips for enjoying your day

Hirosaki City JNTO Toyooka City JNTO


12 issue.13

Most festivals take place during summer in the months of July and August. But there are events throughout the year. Make sure to check their exact dates when planning your visit.

Recommended schedule of festivals to visit

When? Festival Location Description

Saturday and Sundayclosest to 15 May Kanda Matsuri Tokyo

One of the three largest Japanese holidays. Thousands of people parade through central Tokyo with portable shrines and decorated horses.

June Sanno Matsuri Tokyo Locals in traditional Japanese clothing parade through Tokyo holding portable shrines, drums and horses.

July Mitama Matsuri Yasukuni Shrine, Chiyoda, Tokyo

The area around Yasukuni Shrine is lit up by about 20,000 lanterns. Events include a float procession, traditional dancing, theatre and koto shows. Stalls in the main alley sell traditional food, and visitors to the festival come dressed in yukata.

July Gion Matsuri Yasaka Shrine, KyotoThe roads at the centre of Kyoto are barricaded off to allow food and games stands to be set up.The procession which starts at the Yasaka Shrine features some 30 floats that reach 25m high, and weigh as much as 12 tonnes.

July Ohatsu Tenji Natsu Matsuri Tenmangu Shrine, OsakaA mikoshi parade, with participants dressed in the style of the 8th to 12th century imperial court, accompanied by a river parade of 100 traditional boats, which light fires in the evening to go with fireworks.

July-August Ueno Natsu Matsuri Ueno Park, TokyoA microcosm of all the summer festivals in Japan. Every day of the festival is different. A giant parade takes place on 19 July, and in the evening Lake Shinobazu is a stunning scene with floating lanterns.

August Gozan no Okuribi festival KyotoOn the day of the festival, giant bonfires are lit on mountains surrounding Kyoto from 8pm on. These fires are arranged in the form of characters and motifs and are each lit for 30 minutes. There are designated viewing spots for each cluster of bonfires..

August Aomori Nebuta Matsuri Aomori CityPredominantly a night festival. The parade starts at sunset and runs for a few hours. Dancers carry the illuminated and decorated floats. On the last day, the parade starts at midday, and runs into the night, when the floats are set out to sea and fireworks are lit.

August Awa Odori Matsuri Tokushimain Shikoku region

Dancers dressed in yukata and straw hats walk and dance through the streets of the city, accompanied by sdhamisen, drums, flutes and brass.Visitors can join the Niwaka Ren (drop-in team) and dance without advanced application or fee. They can also opt to get lessons from experts before going to the venue.

October Oeshiki Festival Hommonji Temple, Tokyo On the evening of the 12th there is a parade with lights fixed on tall poles. Followers chant and pray to the unique tunes of drums and flutes.

November Taimatsu Akashi Sukagawa, Fukushima

Features giant Taimatsu (fire torches) reaching 10m high and up to 3 tonnes. The Taimatsu are carried at the head of a procession of samurai and royal courtiers which parades to Mt. Gorosan. Once the sun goes down, people climb the giant Taimatsu without the use of ladders, to ignite the sacred fire at the top by hand. After the giant Taimatsu is lit, the 30 other Taimatsu are ignited one after another, until the surrounding area literally becomes a sea of fire.


issue.13 13

FashionJapan, and Tokyo in particular, has a reputation amongst the fabric-conscious as the avant-garde fashion capital of the world. Tokyo is the holy grail for avid shoppers seeking something different, whether it's the latest fashion releases or a vintage goodie. For the explorer willing to wander a little afield from the usual high-street megastores, a treasure-trove of material delights beckons.Western media coverage of Japans fashion scene tends to focus on the eye-catching subcultures and trends which have come to be broadly associated with Harajuku girls. These subcultures often represent the cutting edge of Japanese fashion, and are composed of high-end brand names and much sought-after limited edition pieces.That said, anyone wanting their own touch of gothic Lolita, punk, visual-kei (kei = look/style), fairy-kei, antique-kei or any of the seemingly endless array of looks emerging from the fashion scene of downtown Tokyo can do so for the right price!To see amazing coordinated outfits and to easily purchase their component parts, start with La Foret in Meijijingumae, whose floors are home to both mainstream fashion houses and cult-status subculture brands.Similarly accessible, and worth visiting for the amazing contrasts visible between the floors is Marui Young in Shinjuku. Marui also houses on its ground floor a wonderful collection of pop-up mini-stores from local artists and designers where you can buy beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces of all kinds ranging from original art through accessories to home wares. The brands housed in these stores and many more represent the epitome of their fashion subcultures, filled with unique and beautifully constructed garments (accompanied by suitably astronomical pricetags!). In the cut-

throat online retail environment the most highly coveted new release pieces can often sell out in a matter of seconds. An upside of this, however, is that the frantic turnover has created a vibrant culture of second-hand clothes trading, giving rise to a myriad of well-stocked and beautifully curated collections of second-hand and vintage clothing in Japan. For those seeking to get their hands on pieces of fashion subculture brands, and also the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, Closet Child is a great place to hunt, with pieces at sometimes unbelievably decent prices. For brand devotees theres also a branch off Takeshita-dori in Harajuku stocking exclusively Vivienne Westwood. They have multiple locations across Tokyo and many other cities in Japan, as well as an online shop which ships to international customers. Some stores, such as the Ikebukuro branch also cater to visual-kei and Japanese rock music fans, selling CDs, records and concert publications from famous bands. Juxtaposed against the cutting edge looks are niche subfashions known as dolly, or antique-kei, which celebrate eclectic looks put together from carefully selected vintage and antique European and American clothing, often accessorised with slightly creepy, fairytale-esque embellishments. The flagship store for the dolly-kei aesthetic is Grimoire, which has two stores in Shibuya. Offering a varied and colourful selection of high quality vintage clothes, shoes and accessories, Grimoire also stocks its own designs of fantastically patterned hosiery, and intricate jewellery lines from exclusive Tokyo designers. The Grimoire shop girls are lovely and helpful and always dressed to the nines in their chosen aesthetic, so you need only look to them to see how best to coordinate the pieces you buy from the store!

La Foret in Meijijingumae

OIOI in Shibuya

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Another store which houses a select but fascinating range of European antique pieces mixed with unique contemporary designs is Meno in Jingumae, Harajuku, the centre of the antique and cult party-kei culture in Tokyo which prefers a softer and more muted colour palette compared to dolly-kei. Small and cramped, Meno is stacked full of amazing pieces ranging from Victorian ladies corseted jackets, small bird skulls worked into pieces of jewellery, 1970s flowing dresses and original deconstructed designs. The Jingumae area between Harajuku and Shibuya in Tokyo is a maze of pretty and fascinating backstreets filled with cute and quirky boutiques of all kinds, and one could spend a whole week wandering from shop to shop and marvelling at the vastly dif ferent styles and aesthetics represented by each. Further along the street from Meno lies Dog

Harajuku, an underground den of retro pieces as outlandish and brightly coloured as Menos are subtle and soft. Dog Harajuku is just one of many vintage stores found here, the lifeblood of the thrifting community in Tokyo. Some vintage stores have done so well that they have formed nationwide chains. One stand-out is the Harajuku store Chicago on Cat St, an area often seen as the central hub for fashion and people watching in Tokyo.Similar chains include RagTag, Jumblestore, Kinji and Flamingo; and many of these are also located in popular tourist destination cities such as Kyoto and Osaka. These stores house not only western style clothing but also vintage and antique traditional Japanese kimono and yukata.Some of the best places to pick up wonderful pieces at bargain prices in Japan though are

the flea markets in parks and temple grounds, where you can find anything from brand new handicrafts to antique kimono. One of the best and largest flea markets in Tokyo takes place in Yoyogi Park twice a month. Amidst the festival-like atmosphere, you can engage in some serious bargain hunting! Other markets of note in Tokyo include the Ohi Racetrack market, Shinagawa (every Saturday) and the Tokyo Dome fleamarket (every weekend). You can find listings of all current Tokyo flea markets at http://www.freemarket.co.jp/. The fashion culture of Japan may be notorious for iconic brand-names and their massive flagship stores along the spacious boulevards of Aoyama, but you only have to take a few steps off the main street into the winding streets behind to find yourself amidst a cornucopia of styles, textures and eras of clothing and accessories.

Shibuya

visual-kei Takeshita Street

Chicago

Yoyogi Park

Red i scov eRy Fa sh ion

issue.13 15

Art

The international art scene may focus its jetsetting on the big name destinations on the gallery circuit, with cities like New York, Paris and London dominating the psyche and leaping to mind as art-rich travel destinations. Often (although increasingly less) overlooked is Tokyo a city simply packed with visual sensations for the dedicated aesthete and casual browser alike. From large scale national and commercial galleries to tiny tucked away gems, Tokyo offers a sprawling world of the visual arts just waiting for exploration.The Ginza district in Tokyo alone plays home to a staggering 400 plus galleries, and just by meandering the streets it is impossible to

go half a block without stumbling upon an exhibition space or small commercial gallery worth poking ones head (or whole body) into. One of my favourites is the Shiseido gallery, located in the basement beneath the Shiseido store on the main street Chuo-dori in Ginza. A small and architecturally interesting space, the gallery hosts regularly changing exhibitions and installations across wide-ranging media by contemporary Japanese artists.A similarly basement-housed artspace in the Marunouchi area of Ginza is Gallery Art Point (GAP), a contemporary gallery showcasing the cutting edge of Japanese art, through a range of visual and print media, sculpture, installation and

performance art. Located directly above GAP and posing a stark contrast in terms of contents but of no less interest is Seikodo Ltd: a narrow space dedicated to the art of traditional samurai armour and weaponry, it is a must for antique and history enthusiasts. On the ground floor of the same building is the Art for Thought gallery and attached caf, exhibiting progressive pieces in print of different forms whether they are framed, or on T-shirts. All artworks are for sale here and include the works of both budding artists and art students from colleges across the city. Bonus the caf offers a delightfully art-surrounded spot for afternoon tea!The Ginza Graphic Gallery (GGG or 3G) was

The National Art Center Tokyo

The National Art Center Tokyo Tokyo Big Sight

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founded by Nippon Printing Co and produces digital illustrations, and hosts exhibitions by artists ranging from the world famous veteran to the just-emerging. 3G also holds open talk evenings and workshops and other collaborative activities, and is a constant learning space for Japanese artists engaged in photography, graphic design, graphic art media and typography. Another area absolute full of galleries is the so called Art Triangle in Roppongi, home to many commercial galleries amidst the skyscrapers of one of Tokyos most exclusive neighbourhoods. Most notable of these is the Mori Art Museum, which occupies the top floor of a 54-storey building in the heart of Tokyos entertainment district. With a constantly rotating selection of ambitious and outstandingly curated contemporary shows, the Mori Museum is the major gallery name in the Tokyo art scene. Also well worth a visit amongst the selection in Roppongi is the Suntory Museum of Art, nestled within the Tokyo Midtown shopping complex in Roppongi Hills and host to a range of exhibitions across different media. In addition, Tokyo Midtown itself is a beautifully architectured setting, with glamorous boutiques, restaurants

and landscaped grounds and water features.The SCAI The Bathhouse gallery is, as its name suggests, tucked away in a traditional neighbourhood in Taito-ku, and housed in a renovated 200-year-old former bathhouse. Retaining the original fittings from the era, the juxtaposition of the traditional Japanese interior against the fascinating contemporary installations and exhibitions by some of the top names of the Japanese art scene provides an utterly intriguing visual experience. For the cutting, and often gritty, edge of contemporary Japanese photography, the Taka Ishii gallery in Koto-ku is a must for any art itinerary with a second space in Roppongi for film-based media installations, the gallery also exhibits and sells in Kyoto and internationally. Tokyo also hosts world class art and design events, the biggest of which is the Design Festa, held twice annually in Tokyo Big Sight. Representing the perfect fusion between commercial marketability and experimental small-scale art endeavours, the Festa serves as a platform for over 10,000 artists, designers, musicians, actors and more to exhibit and share their artistic visions, and since its inception in 1994 has welcomed professionals and

ambitious amateur exhibitors alike in a melding of creative minds and talent. The Festa maintains a linked exhibition and creative space in the small backstreets of Harajuku, the Design Festa Gallery. According to the website description, the Gallery is devoted to supporting freedom of expression regardless of an artists age, nationality, language or preferred medium and by association, income; at the heart of the Gallerys mission is providing a space where upcoming artists can sell and exhibit their works free without commission fees. The ever-changing space, covered top-to-bottom and inside-out in murals and graffiti art, has 71 different exhibition spaces across its East and West wings, and all pieces are by young upcoming artists and designers, and can be bought directly from the floor. Theres also a caf and bar on site, notably serving delicious okonomiyaki (my favourite in Tokyo!).For those interested in finding out more about what exhibitions and public art events are happening in Tokyo at any given time, check out Tokyo Art Beat (www.tokyoartbeat.com), which has an English language guide to events, reviews, reports and photos of the art scene, both mainstream and offbeat.

Ginza

Ginza Scai The Bathhouse

Roppongi Hills

Roppongi Midtown

Red i scov eRy A Rt

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Rediscovering JapanSerenity and surprises off the beaten trackKyoto is rightly seen as the cultural capitol of Japan, a place of geishas, temples, ceremonies and history. But Kyoto holds a surprising secret for the eager surfers out there. Wander up to the north coast of Kyoto Prefecture, and you will find no shortage of beaches. Surfers are drawn by the big waves which come in with clockwork regularity from November to February. If you prefer to surf in warmer waters, be sure to check out the beaches on the Pacific coastline of Japan, where the water is consistently above 25C in the summer months. Late summer is also a great time to sample some of the local produce from the olive groves and wineries in Japan. First stop, Okayama, where the Ushimado Olive Garden, with stunning views of inland sea and the Shikoku mountains, is home to over 10,000 olive trees.Ushimado is also the home of the Hattori family, owners of Nippon Olive. The Hattori family has been in the olive business for generations, and the Nippon Olive head office's architecture hearkens back to the Mediterranean with its sunset coloured walls and reddish brown tiled roof.Besides olive oil, the Hattori family also produce natural olive cosmetics and health supplements. While olives are not a traditional part of the Japanese diet, locals and tourists alike have embraced the health and wellbeing products derived from olives. Be sure to try the local delicacy, olive flavoured ice cream sprinkled with bits of dried olive.

Amanohashidate Kyoto Prefecture JNTO

Okayama-ken Kanko Renmei JNTO

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As a country blessed with verdant mountains and sun kissed beaches, Japan is an outdoor art gallery waiting to be discovered. Across the Inland Sea is Naoshima, also known as Benesse Art Site Naoshima, which is dotted with outdoor sculpture installations. Wander the island and discover the artworks, set amidst stunning scenery and accompanied by the heady scent of seawater blended with cedar and wild sage. A must see is Yayoi Kusamas

Pumpkin and Red Pumpkin, but to really get the most out of your experience, consider staying over on the island.Turning back to our Mediterranean rendezvous, it is a little known fact that Japan is home to some of the best Italian food in the world. A short walk from Nagoya Station in the Osu shopping arcade is Trattoria Cesari. Its part owner Mr Makishima trained in Naples and took the name Pasquale in honour of his

mentor. In 2009, he took out third prize in the World Pizza competition in Naples. Not resting on his laurels, he participated again a year later, outdoing 150 chefs from Italy, Spain, France and the United States to claim the rank of World Champion. Today, there are only 23 pizzerias across Japan recognized by the official Italian based Association for Genuine Neapolitan Pizza, and Cesari holds the worldwide member number 230.

JNTO: Nagoya CastleYayoi Kusama "Pumpkin"

Photo: Shigeo Anzai

George Rickey "Four Lines"Photo: Tadasu Yamamoto

Chichu Art MuseumPhoto: FUJITSUKA Mitsumasa

Red i scov eRy R ed i scov eR i ng Ja pan

issue.13 19

Wellbeing TourismA less well-known aspect of Japan is wellbeing tourism. However, as the Japanese are known for their omotenashi or hospitality culture, and thousands of years of wellness traditions, it is not entirely surprising that wellbeing permeates every part of your journey.

What would you do for a perfect nights sleep? Sleep is an oft-overlooked remedy in today's busy lifestyle. But scientists theorise that it helps maintain brain function, regulate growth hormones, and ensure emotional stability. At Royal Park Shiodome Tower Hotel, they have made it their mission to ensure you sleep as well as you can, with their dream room stocking humidifiers with calming aromatherapy oils, soothing music channels, and a revolutionary medical blanket that attunes your brainwaves

to maximum deep REM sleep, giving you the freshest start possible to move the mountains in your life the next morning. This blanket also improves your blood circulation, which benefits people of all conditions, but especially those with circulation limitations in their extremities. So whether you are suffering from jet lag or just want to sleep better, the dream room is the perfect place for a good night's sleep and to ensure you wake up refreshed.

Natural healingAlpha Slim CEO Mr Norio Otani struggled many years with the question, What is the best way for the sick or the old to get healthy without any exercise? He realized that the easiest way was to enhance the natural healing power of sleep, reducing the dependency on medicine. He has developed blended tourmalines which emit Terra-Hertz Waves to enhance the natural healing powers of the body, activating cells and enhancing metabolism. After the completion of tests with Kanazawa University Hospital, he has obtained CE certification with the Dutch Government for exports into Europe.

Mr Otani tells of a letter he received from a 73 year old man suffering from diabetes, dementia and cerebral infarction, which is a kind of stroke. Because of a lack of sleep, his memory suffered, so much so that he couldnt remember his birthday, or recognize his children. He also found himself constantly irritated and short-tempered. After using the Alpha Slim products, his cognition level improved and he was able to walk without a wheelchair. Mr Otani was skeptical, but when he met the man, he was amazed by his recovery.Find out more about Mr Otani's work at http://www.pmc-pmc.com/

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A balanced approach to teaThe confidence and joy that comes about from natural healing, whether from holistic health care or medical blankets cant be underestimated. But while we pursue physical wellbeing, it's important to not overlook the importance of mental wellbeing. Fortunately, Japan makes it easy to experience both mental and physical wellbeing without having to search far and wide for it. Everything from meditating in the Zen gardens of Kyoto to taking part in a tea ceremony will immerse you in a sense of mindfulness. At the Camellia Tea House near Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto, apply the brakes on your pace of life, to the calming sounds of bubbling water, as

the owner Mori-san prepares you for a journey. Calm, disciplined, and elegant, the traditional Japanese tea ceremony is bewitching to experience. A sense of time and space prevails, as everything about the moment is distilled into the pearls of exquisite Uji matcha tea. Camellia Tea House provides a warm welcome to overseas visitors, and being located in Kyoto, the epicentre of Japan's tea ceremony culture, offers an authentic experience, with even the water sourced from local underground springs. As an added bonus, the green tea is packed with anti-oxidants, soothing your mind and body. Isnt this the essence of a good holiday?

Holistic dental heallthFor those who are more concerned with the health of their pearly whites, Japan offers its own unique spin on dental health, with a natural and holistic approach.Dr Hideo Yamauchi is a dentist in Aoyama, Tokyo, who has been trained in both the United States and Japan, and has an insider understanding of the dental health philosophies of both countries. Many of his fondest memories came from his studies and interactions with his teachers and friends in Texas about the connection between physical and emotional health.His philosophy is centered on a deep understanding of the needs and wishes of the

patient. While in the United States a dentist is likely to remove a tooth if there is any chance of long term decay, in Japan a more holistic approach occurs where the dentist will try to restore the tooth and will work with the patient to discuss different ways to achieve dental health, and the risks and benefits associated with each.Today, Dr Yamauchi's clinic offers dental check-ups, emergency care, implants, crowns, whitening as well as braces. While charges are slightly higher than in the United States or Australia, his clinic offers high quality services and may provide you with alternative treatments that may not be available in your home country.

Red i scov eRy Wel lbe i ng TouR i sm

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For over a century, Seiko has consistently been at the pinnacle of time keeping technology. Since developing the worlds first quartz wrist watch in 1969, called the Astron, the Japanese watch maker has continued their pioneering legacy. In 2012, Seiko released the ground-breaking Astron GSP Solar Series. In a world first, the watch requires only the power of light to connect to the GPS network and with just the touch of a button, seamlessly adjusts to the relevant time zone.In 2014, Seiko has further revolutionised the Astron GPS Solar series with a host of innovative new features that truly puts the watch in a class of its own.

SEIKO again revolutionises watch making with the release of the 2014 Astron GPS Solar series

SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR

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GPS Solar System

The Astron GPS Solar gains all the energy it needs by simply being exposed to a light source, meaning there is no need to ever change a battery. By pressing just one button, the watch receives precise location updates from a minimum of 4 GPS satellites orbiting the earth and automatically adjusts to the corresponding date and time zone. Daily signal checks also give atomic-clock-like time keeping accuracy.

WhAT ISSEIKOASTRONGPSSOLAR?

Smaller Simplicity

The new 2014 Astron GPS Solar is an incredible 30% smaller than its 2012 predecessor, due to new energy-saving technology that has considerably reduced the size of the GPS antenna. Despite the reduction in size, the watch features a new 6 hour chronograph in 1/5 second increments. All other features, including the perpetual calendar accurate to February 2100, Daylight Saving Time selection and in flight mode, remain.

Novak Djokovic LE Series

Available from November 2014, the Novak Djokovic Limited Edition features a stainless steel case with rose gold coating and a black ceramic bezel. Only 2,500 will be produced and each time piece will be individually numbered and fitted with an extra strength silicon strap. The case back is laser engraved with Novaks name and signature to nicely complement the extensive Astron GPS Solar family.

Limited Edition

The 2014 flagship edition, limited to just 7,000 watches, adds further unique elements to the already impressive Astron range. On top of the black ceramic bezel with 12 specially cut facets, a crown with special lighter cut and a distinctive white dial, all watches feature a laser marked GPS SOLAR logo and an individual serial number engraved on the back. The special gift box with an additional crocodile leather strap completes the stylish limited edition.

issue.13 23

TOKYO

KYOTO

OSAKA

HIROSHIMA

Nozawa Onsen 36

Shiga Kogen 39

Yudanaka 40

Nagano (City) 41

Matsumoto 42

Hakuba 38

Myoko 35

Echigo Yuzawa 29

NIIGATA

NAGANO

Niseko 44

The Powder Belt 46

Sapporo 48

HOKKAIDOIn this issue of jStyle, our travel category takes a look at the skiing areas of Japan and some of the popular spots in the cities and towns nearby. In particular, we place the spotlight firmly on Niigata, an area often overlooked in favor of Hokkaido and Nagano. This region is home to Echigo Yuzawa, with its spectacular Naeba Ski Resort, an area that at one time claimed the title as Japans most popular skiing area and saw an incredible number of visitors.

Zeroing in on

Japans big three - Niigata, Nagano and Hokkaido - and surrounds.

Travel

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Despite its small landmass, the snowy winters and mountainous geography of Japan gives rise to numerous ski hills. In fact, Japan is home to a surprising number of skiing areas, with the total count reaching over 500. Each of these skiing areas possesses a unique character and sees a constant trail of visitors. With so many on offer, your biggest difficulty when planning a ski trip to Japan is which ones to choose! In this issue, the jStyle team would like to introduce two up-and-coming areas to the skiing fans of Australia and the world who are planning their trips for the 2015 to

2016 season: Niigata and Echigo Yuzawa. Turn to the articles to find out more, but suffice to say these skiing areas are some of Japans best-kept secrets that are hugely popular in Japan but have yet to gain widespread recognition overseas. In this feature, we also revisit the already well-known skiing areas of Hokkaido and Nagano, and look at some of the highlights in the cities and towns nearby. We hope this issue brings you not only up close with another side of skiing in Japan, but allows you to rediscover some of Japans other great attractions as well.

HokkaidoSkiing areas of Japan have a growing reputation overseas for their ease of access from the major metropolitan cities. One example is the popular Echigo Yuzawa, with its fine local Japanese sake, and the already booming Myogo Kogen area.

NiiGaTaThe site of the 1998 Winter Olympics, Nagano is a skiers heaven rivalling the likes of Hokkaido. See the popular Nozawa, Hakuba, and Shiga areas, and highlights of nearby Yudanaka, Nagano City, and Matsumoto.

NaGaNoHokkaido is well-known for its high latitude that results in some of the best powder snow across Japan. This issue, we look at some of the local attractions in Sapporo City, the economic powerhouse of Hokkaido.

Japan, a true skiers heaven with more than 500 skiing areas!

issue.13 25

WinterWonderLand

ECHIGO-YUZAWA

12 ski areas offer a huge variety of terrain to suit all levels and abilities

on top of great skiing and snowboarding, guests can also enjoy rustic outdoor hot springs

The resort provides a fantastic free program for kids

Primary school students can enjoy 1 day of skiing complementary!

Directly linked to the GALA Yuzawa station and only 77 minutes from Tokyo

A fully stocked rental area means you can hire all your snow equipment on the spot

A complimentary shuttle service from Yuzawa Onsens accommodation area takes around 8 minutes and runs throughout the day

http://www.e-yuzawa.gr.jp/english/

Just minfrom Tokyo 70

NAEBA

GALA YUZAWA

http://www.princehotels.com/en/ski/naeba.html

http://www.galaresort.jp/winter/english/

Starting in Niseko in Hokkaido, the ski slopes of Japan became an overnight sensation amongst Aussie skiers for their high level of snowfall and the high quality of the snow itself. After this initial boom in popularity, the wave spread throughout Hokkaido and moved to mainland Japan where areas such as Nagano Prefecture, host to the 1998 Winter Olympics, boast a variety of skiing areas that are popular amongst skiing enthusiasts. However, there is one area that is capturing the attention of overseas skiers on the lookout for the latest and greatest skiing experience. That area is Echigo Yuzawa in Niigata Prefecture. One of Japans greatest snowy regions, where

the snow builds up several meters in height, Echigo Yuzawa is a location where many bought resort mansions during the initial skiing boom that came to Japan. It is no exaggeration to call Echigo Yuzawa the most popular of the ski resorts in Japan at the time. One of the secrets to this popularity was not just the high quality of the snow and the many attractive skiing areas there, but its ease of access from Tokyo. Travelling via the high speed bullet train, Echigo Yuzawa is a mere hours trip from Tokyo. With such a short travel time, it is no surprise that many jump at the chance to head out from the hustle and bustle of a major

NIIGATAHot Skiing Destinations

EchIGo YuzAwAOne of Japans Greatest and Most Easily Accessible Snowy Regions

TokyoTokyoInternational Airport

Echigo Yuzawa

Niigata Niigata Airport

Narita Airport

Komatsu Airport

Kanazawa

Just 70minutes from Tokyoby the Shinkansen

Chubu CentrairInternational Airport

KansaiInternational Airport

ToyamaAirport

Hop S

tep J

apan

.com

(http

s://h

opste

pjap

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m/h

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urban center like Tokyo to the quiet of the snowy ski resorts. Indeed, one of the great draws of Echigo Yuzawa for overseas travellers is not just the skiing, but the ease of travelling between this region and Japan's major urban centres, including Tokyo. The word yu that forms part of the name Echigo Yuzawa stands for hot water, a nod at the hot springs in the region. Echigo Yuzawa is one of the worlds greatest hot spring destinations, being an incredibly popular destination for local Japanese seeking onsen vacations. And it is this combination of hot spring visits and skiing adventures that is another of the reasons that drives the regions GALA Yuzawa Snow ResortNaeba Snow Resort

Naeba Snow Resort

Tr av el S k i r eSorTS of Ja pan n i i g aTa ech igo Y uz awa

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immense popularity. The waters of the hot springs possess the power to ease tired muscles, making them a great spot to visit and refresh after a days skiing. However, theres more to the hot springs than the refreshment they provide. Simply sitting back in the hot waters amidst the cool weather with a view out over the snowy landscapes and the bright night sky is the very picture of luxury. How about donning a yukata and having an ice-cold beer after warming your body in the hot springs, followed sake and shochu accompanied by traditional Japanese cuisine?For those looking for a bit more variety, the town of Echigo Yuzawa leaves you spoiled for choice, its many restaurants and hotels offering a style to suit all tastes. From Japanese restaurants and sushi restaurants using local produce to izakaya and western dining, every day offers a new option.

14 ski areas for unsurpassable skiing choices

Echigo Yuzawa is home to 14 ski areas, both large and small. From fresh powder snows to fully groomed runs, mogul skiing and slopes, half-pipes and more, a myriad of options are open to you, regardless of your tastes and style. Perhaps the best known of the ski areas in the Echigo Yuzawa region is the Naeba Ski Resort. This ski resort boasts the highest average elevation of all the skiing areas at Echigo Yuzawa, and an incredible size with long courses up to 4km long. It is also home to the giant Naeba Prince Hotel with 1,224 guest rooms along the slopes, various restaurants, shopping areas, hot springs, and more. The windows of the hotel offer a direct vantage out over the courses, and the rare ski-in, ski-out locations make it easy to get out and hit the slopes. Between the nearby Kagura Ski

The Station Area

Hot Spring


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Resort, formed by the Kagura, Mitsumata, and Tashiro ski areas, and the Naeba Ski Resort, you can find one of the worlds longest gondolas, the Dragondola, which stretches 5,481m in length. The Dragondola makes it easy to access the Kagura, Mitsumata, and Tashiro ski areas from Naeba, creating a massive skiing area with 35 ski lifts and gondolas, and 44 courses. There are many family-oriented courses and a range of advanced courses, and the region is set to be the host for the Alpine Ski World Cup in 2016. With all this on offer, Naeba Ski Resort is a must-see skiing spot for any experienced skier. Another of the must-see ski areas in the region is the Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort. First-time visitors might be in for a surprise at how easy the skiing area is to access as you step foot out of the bullet train station and straight to the station for the skiing slopes - and all this located just 77 minutes from Tokyo. Another

of the resorts great attractions is the ability to go skiing without having to bring any gear. Over 5,500 of the latest skis and snowboards are available via rental, and with this much choice, youll have no trouble finding just the right gear for you. Of course, there are plenty of skiwear facilities on offer, with change rooms, and spacious powder rooms for women. The ease of access from Tokyo and the ability to get all your gear on the slopes makes this ski resort an experience unlike any other. Come and enjoy this rare experience that you will find nowhere else in the world!Needless to say, the skiing areas themselves are also a great attraction. Gala Yuzawa is a relatively large-scale area with 16 courses, and is connected with the Yuzawa Kogen and Ishiuchi Maruyama skiing areas, allowing you to enjoy three skiing areas at once. Echigo Yuzawa also hosts many other unique skiing experiences that deserve a look.

Tashiro Yukiakari Festival

Naeba Kamakura (Japanese Igloo) Festival


30 issue.13

An area loved by a prolific literary figure

The setting of the world-famous literary work Snow Country (Yukiguni), which begins with the famous sentence Passing out of the tunnel, the train entered into a world of snow is none other than Echigo Yuzawa. The tale, which tells of the women living out their lives in the hot springs town as seen by a man visiting this world of snow, is a work of beauty. Reading this work by winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature Yasunari Kawabata before travelling to the area will surely add to the enjoyment of your trip.

There are many sights within walking distance or a five-minute taxi ride from Echigo Yuzawa station, and you will have no lack of options for those days away from the slope.Niigata Prefecture, where Echigo Yuzawa is situated, is known as home to many varieties of wonderful Japanese sake, and the Koshino Muro museum for Japanese sake is a must-see for fans. There are also museums that display exhibits of life as depicted in Snow Country and where you can enjoy foot spas, a tradition of hot spring towns in Japan.Visitors can find many local goods in Echigo Yuzawa station itself, and there is no end of options for shopping. The station area is

crowded with options for good food, making it a good choice after a day out on the slopes.Another of the areas attractions is the great range of events held throughout the year. From the start of the season in December until the end of March, fireworks are held throughout the town on the weekends. Then there is Candle Live - SNOW CRYSTAL where over 10,000 candles are placed on display in the hot spring town and skiing areas, as well as the Yuzawa Onsen Yuki Matsuri snow festival which feature portable shrines, fireworks, a beauty context, and people carrying flames while skiing down slopes, and the entire town comes together in an atmosphere of festivity.

Yuzawa Onsen Snow Festival


issue.13 31

The Yuzawa and Uonuma regions of Niigata Prefecture are home to some of the lushest snowfalls in Japan. Blessed with plenty of natural spring water, it is also here that some of the best rice in Japan is grown. It is at the foothills of these regions at Mt. Hakkai, where the finest ingredients come together to produce the finest sake, Hakkaisan. The base ingredients of sake are rice and water, and the chemistry between the two is crucial to sake production. Where Sake brewers commonly seek the best matching by preparing rice and water which best suited to local conditions. Hakkaisan Brewery combines long years of research of what with techniques of brewring, and it has developed to achieve the perfect matching for brewing sake in Uonuma. It is this tireless attention to detail that gives birth to an exquisite f lavor. The sake produced there is of the highest quality throughout the country. The regions high snowfall helps regulate the temperature and humidity of the sake breweries, resulting in fine sake, specific to the region. The Uonuma Region is also home to Uonuma no Sato, an area that evokes a deep feeling of nostalgia to all who visit. It offers a striking

view of each of the four seasons throughout the year, and allows you to experience the culture of Japanese sake production firsthand. One of Uonuma no Satos greatest attractions is the snow room, YUKIMURO, a storage area that holds 1,000 tons of snow and is used to mature sake for up to five years in a process that gives the sake a mellow flavor. Uonuma no Sato is filled with many other attractions such as shops serving local soba and udon noodles, studios for production of sweets, and even the opportunity to go for walks in snowshoes during the winter months. With so much on offer, what better place could there be for sake aficionados? Located just a short 30 minute drive from the Yuzawa ski resort region, or a 70-minute bullet train ride from Tokyo, the Uonuma no Sato is the perfect destination while on your ski trip. For those unable to make the trip in person, you can have a taste of Hakkaisan sake in the heart of Tokyo, at Sennen Koujiya. Complete with the full lineup of Hakkaisan sake, Sennen Koujiya boasts a bar that provides the perfect pairing of Japanese cuisine and sake. Hakkaisan is a must for those who truly consider themselves serious conosseurs.

The Best Sake from the Home of the Best Rice, Uonuma

Hakkaisan

Uonuma no Sato

Nagamori, Minami Uonuma City, Niigata PrefectureTrading hours: 9:30 - 16:30

Open: 7 days

Hakkaisan Senenn Koujiya

1F COREDO Muromachi 2, 2-3-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo Ward, Tokyo

Trading hours: 10:00 - 23:00Open: 7 days (some irregular non-trading days)

Inquiries Hakkaisan Brewery Co., Ltd.Tel: 81-25-775-3866

32 issue.13

Myoko Kogen was the first area to draw the attention of Australians in Niigata Prefecture, one of Japans greatest snowy regions. The unique skiing areas spread out along the slopes of the majestic Mt. Myoko, also known as Echigo Fuji for its resemblance to Mt. Fuji, have gained immense popularity. Part of its popularity is also due to its accessibility: it is only a 10-minute drive from the closest highway exit or train station.A large-scale area with some 60 courses in total, Myoko Kogen is a surefire hit with families, beginners, and experts alike. There is the Akakura area formed by the Akakura Kanko Resort Ski and Akakura Onsen Ski Area, the Ikenotaira area with the Ikenotaira Onsen

skiing area, and the Suginohara area with the Suginohara Ski Resort, each with their own unique features. The Akakura area boasts numerous courses for advanced skiers and facilities aimed at children. Many Australian instructors are available, and the Myoko Snow Academy offers lessons in English for overseas visitors. Moreover, the hot spring town in the foothills is a lively spot with shopping opportunities, offering a great place to visit after skiing. The 800m cross-country course, the many park-style options of the Ikenotaira Onsen skiing area and the extraordinarily long 8,500m course of the Suginohara Ski Resort are also very popular. The variety of hot springs is another big draw to the region.

Myoko kogenUnique Skiing Destinations at the Foothills of Mt. Myoko

M

att H

ull

Tr av el S k i r eSorTS of Ja pan n i i g aTa M yoko kogen

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Nozawa Onsen is a name known to many as one of Japans greatest ski resorts. The large size of the grounds with over 20 ski lifts, including 2 gondolas, and the off-course, non-compacted snow skiing areas are some of its greatest attractions, drawing immense popularity amongst skiers on the lookout for wilder climes. Nozawa Onsen Village has a long history as a popular skiing destination, and is frequently visited by skiers who have taken part in the Winter Olympics and world-class competitions. The secret to its popularity lies not just in the amazing skiing areas themselves, but in the story of skiing culture woven into the very history of the area.Ski shops and rental services for beginners dot the village and the mountainside, letting you

change your gear to suit your needs for the day and offering an added variety of choice for longer stays. Because the village is spread out across the skiing area, visitors have the option to stay in areas at varying distances from the slopes. But regardless of your choice of accommodation, it is easy to get about, thanks to the local "belt conveyor system", which transports visitors throughout the village to any of the skiing areas.Another reason for the popularity that Nozawa Onsen enjoys over other skiing areas is the old-fashioned hot spring village that winds its way across the slopes. As its name suggests, the amazing hot springs of Nozawa Onsen are one of the areas greatest drawcards. The village itself has its origins as an ancient hot spring town -- at

the start of the Edo Era, during the days of the samurai, it was already home to 24 hot spring accommodation areas. Nozawa Onsen is dotted with numerous places to grab a bite to eat or

NAGANOThe Most Popular Skiing Destination on Mainland Japan

NOzAwA ONseNA Skiers Heaven with the Perfect Match of Skiing and Hot Spring Bathing

34 issue.13

sample local goods, and is the very picture of a traditional Japanese village. On offer are many goods local to the area such as hot springs sweet cakes, a pancake-like Japanese sweet special to hot spring towns with a variety of fillings, and more, making even a simple walk about town enjoyable. The rise in Australian skiers in recent years has also brought about an increase in casual bars and other stores, but the traditional face of the village is still very much intact.One of the great attractions of a trip to a hot spring town is a visit to the public bathing areas. There are 13 such areas throughout the village that allow you to enjoy the natural hot springs, each with its own special name and bathing experiences. Many visitors make it a point to try a variety of public baths during their stay. For those on a tighter schedule, it would be hard to go past Ohyu, one of the areas greatest and most famous hot springs known for its spectacular appearance. Run by the local village people, the public bathing areas are free to enter.The beauty of the natural surroundings has led to the area being designated the Joshinetsu Kogen National Park, with numerous superb viewing spots on offer. For those enjoying longer stays in the area, a trip away from Nozawa Onsen Village into the surrounds makes for an attractive trip.

Tr av el S k i r eSorTS of Ja pan n agano noz awa onSen

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Set amidst the grand Japanese Alps and home to numerous skiing areas is Hakuba, one of the greatest ski resorts in the country. Hakuba is an area well known to Australians, and offers many options for accommodation catering to overseas visitors. Both the largest skiing area in Hakuba and one of the most popular areas is the Hakuba Happo-one Winter Resort. There are 23 lifts, and the skiing slopes up to 8,000m in length are an impressive sight. Skiing down the course from start to finish is an amazing experience than only Hakuba can offer. Moreover, the skiing slopes boast some of the most advanced courses in the country, making them popular amongst more experienced skiers. It is this reason that made the area a main location for a variety of competitions during

the Nagano Winter Olympics, and near the slopes is a jump site where Olympic jumping competitions were held, and you can venture right up to the starting line.There are many other attractive skiing areas to be found in Hakuba as well, such as the Iwatake Snow Field, unrivaled in its spectacular views. While one of the big draws to Hakuba is the beautiful view over the Japanese Alps that it commands, another scenic highlight is the unique landscape of Iwatake, the sole lone peak in the Hakuba area. Skiing along these wonderful courses, accompanied by a breathtaking view, is an unforgettable experience. Another skiing area popular amongst freestyle skiers and snowboarders who favor slope-style and park skiing is Hakuba47. Courses with a variety of

trick spots await, and the non-compacted snow zones are a must-see. The Hakuba47 skiing area is also connected with the Hakuba Goryu Ski Resort, allowing you to enjoy two areas at once.

HAkubAA Picturesque Ski Resort Amongst the Japanese Alps

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A range of skiing areas of various sizes stretching out from 1,340m to 2,307m above sea level, connected by 52 lifts, gondolas, and shuttle buses, combine to form a single

functional resort - Shiga Kogen. It is so big that you could spend all day out on the slopes from sunrise to sunset and still not see everything that the area has to offer. And while some of the skiing areas are managed independently, most visitors see it as a single immense skiing area, effectively making it the largest in Japan.The courses of Shiga Kogen spread out over the slopes, covering a unique variety of geographic features, with its appearance changing greatly depending on the angle of the sun. These elements come together to bring about a surprising degree of change in the features of each course. With areas that are perfect for families and challenging courses for the more advanced, as well as areas with powder snow, Shiga Kogen offers a variety unlike any other

skiing area. Being able to offer such a wide range of different views is something that only Shiga Kogen can provide, making it a must-see for all lovers of skiing.Thats not all, however. As the area's designation as a national park suggests, the natural surroundings here are breathtakingly beautiful and abounds in natural wildlife. The area is frequented by many cute ermines of the weasel family, and antelope also make an occasional appearance. Monkeys are frequent visitors to the area as well, but take care with your hotel windows. The monkeys have grown quite accustomed to human contact and sometimes find their way into hotel rooms, taking snacks and drinks. Be on the lookout for these mischievous locals.

sHiGA kOGeNJapans Largest and Grandest Skiing Area

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Tourist Hot Spotsin Nagano

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Jigokudani Yaen Koen

One of the hot springs in Yudanaka Shibu Onsen-kyo, Jigokudani Hot Springs is home the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park that cares for wild Japanese monkeys (Macaca fuscata) and allows visitors to come and see them as well. The sight of the monkeys taking a bath in the hot springs here in winter is renowned overseas as a hot tourist attraction.

http://jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp

Fruit Picking

Orchards in Kitashiga Kogen offer the chance to try picking local specialties such as cherries, blueberries, grapes, apples, and more. The melted waters of the snow, high in minerals, combine with the large difference in temperature between the daytime and nighttime to create produce that is strong in flavor and sweet to the taste.

www.info-yamanouchi.net

Yudanaka Early Morning Markets

Every Saturday, Sunday, and Monday from 6:30 a.m., the

area in front of the Nagano Electric Railway Yudanaka Station transforms into an early morning market where more than 20 stalls sell fruit and vegetables freshly picked that morning. There are fresh vegetables and mountain vegetables, peaches, kyoho grapes, apples, and other seasonal produce, handmade pickles and oyaki dumplings, all at market prices. Talking and interacting with the local stall owners is sure to become a fond memory of your stay.


Shibu Hot Spring Public Bathing Area Tours

With more than 1,300 years of history, the public bathing areas of Shibu Hot Springs have been carefully tended to over the years by the local village people. While public baths are usually only open to local residents, those who stay at accommodation can enter the bathing areas for free by borrowing the wooden keys (hot spring touring passes) at their place of stay. Each of the nine outdoor baths possesses its own special properties.


Shiga Kogen

A highland area ranging 1,300m to 1,600m above sea level in height and surrounded by even taller mountains such as Mt. Higashidate and Mt. Yokote. Approximately 20 minutes by car from Yudanaka Onsen-kyo, the area is visited by many after a trip to the hot springs to see the lake here and the alpine vegetation. Take a boat ride

on Lake Biwa or Lake Maru, or a gondola lift from Hoppo Hot Springs to the peaks of Mt. Higashidate at 1,994m above sea level.

www.shigakogen.co.jp

Not far from Shiga Kogen is the Yudanaka Shibu Onsen-kyo. This hot spring destination is formed by nine different hot springs in the Yokoyu River and Yamase River basin in Yamanouchi Town in Shimotakai-gun, Nagano Prefecture. A range of accommodation is on offer, from large ryokans and the latest modern hotels to traditional wooden-style ryokans, and the

area plays host to visitors all year round. The hot springs work together on initiatives such as a hot spring touring pass that allows you to enter a selection of public bathing areas throughout your stay, and summer festivals lasting over a month. The town in the hot springs is also home to many foot spas that allow even those not staying at accommodation to enjoy the hot water.

Yudanaka Shibu Onsen-kyoTaking a Dip, Snow Monkey Style

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Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle was built in the late 1500s at the end of Japans warring period, and makes for a striking sight. The donjon (castle keep) is a national treasure, and the castle remains are designated as a national historical landmark. Visitors can view the interior of the donjon, recreated to represent the time of its construction, and you can see downtown Matsumoto City and even parts of the northern Alps from its highest levels.

http://welcome.city.matsumoto.nagano.jp

Kamikochi

A beautiful landscape in the northern Alps at 1,500m above sea level, Kamikochi is visited by many tourists from April through to November outside the winter months. Walking paths running 10km from Taisho Lake to Yokoo by the Azusa River provide a view of beautiful scenery year round.

www.kamikochi.or.jp

The Norikura Highlands

The Norikura Highlands are a collection of lands ranging 1,200m to 1,800m above sea level along the eastern reaches of Mt. Norikura. Attractions include the Ichinose Gardens, forests and lakes, marshes, waterfalls, autumn foliage, four hot springs with their own unique waters, flowers, and more.


The Matsumoto Castle Town Wells

There are many wells in this castle town. These wells provide access to the spring waters that flow down from the Utsukushigahara Highlands, and are places of rest and refreshment for the city's residents and visitors. The wells in the city are an urban oasis, and a great place to have a drink as you explore the city.


Handmade Soba Making

Premium soba, or buckwheat in English, comes from land that is high in elevation, is prone to fog, and where the daylight hours are short. Nagano Prefecture provides the perfect growing conditions for soba and is famous for its soba noodles. Particularly noteworthy are Norikura and Nagawa, with Nagawa being home to the famous traditional Toujisoba. Visitors can also learn to make soba noodles by hand at the Fureai Yamabe-kan.


Nakamachi Street

Located in the center of Nagano Prefecture, Matsumoto City has long prospered as a castle town and hub of commerce. Nakamachi Street in the heart of the city is home to heritage white-walled and latticed clay wall buildings. This area is a place for shopping, with goods stores, folk craft stores, sweets shops, restaurants, and more.


Situated in the heart of Nagano Prefecture, Matsumoto City is a popular destination for many, known as a castle town with a long history and the gateway to the northern Alps. Matsumoto Castle, the citys star attraction and a national treasure, is a famous tourist spot, but the

city is also known for buildings constructed in the downtown districts during the Meiji and Showa eras, their mix of western and Japanese influence lending the area a touch of nostalgia. Matsumoto City is also known for its natural springs, and is dotted with a series of wells.

MatsuMotoA castle town with over 400 years of history


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Zenko-ji Temple

Venture beyond the inner chamber of this pilgrimage site, down a narrow flight of steps to a completely dark corridor. Visitors who manage to touch a metal key hanging on the wall here are said to gain enlightenment. Because the temple is non-denominational, many have travelled here over the years to be saved regardless of religion, gender, or station, driving the temples ongoing popularity.

www.zenkoji.jp

Kagami Lake

A beautiful lake 1,200m above sea level with a mirror-like surface that reflects the landscape year round, from the new shoots of spring to the cool breezes of summer and the autumn foliage. For the best view, plan a visit in the morning. The lake is lined by a walking track, and the Togakushi Mountain Botanical Gardens is close by as well.

www.nagano-tabi.net/modules/enjoy/enjoy_1004013.html

The Nagano Ebisu Fireworks Festival

This fireworks festival is a symbol of the coming of winter to Nagano City. In addition to splendid fireworks displays, giant 24-inch shells light up the autumn sky in internationally-acclaimed displays.

www.nagano-cci.or.jp/ebisukou/

Shichimi Hot Spring

A hidden hot spring at the heart of Matsukawa Gorge in the Shinshu Takayama Onsen-kyo. Three hot spring resorts call the area home, and day visitors are welcome. The autumn foliage is some of the best in the entire region, and the hot springs are the perfect place to relax. The regions name comes from the seven different springs in the area.

www.mountaintrad.co.jp/nagano/scm/hi0/guide.html

Togakushi Shrine

This shrine is located at the base of Mt. Togakushi, a widely visited holy mountain 1904m in height long known as a pilgrimage site for those of faith or seeking enlightenment. Today, it is a holy spot and a power spot where visitors can feel the earths energy, drawing visitors from across the country to pray for strong harvests, good fortune, and good health.

www.togakushi-jinja.jp

Togakushi Handmade Soba

The climate of Togakushi gives birth to a tasty soba noodle with a strong aroma known as Kirishita Soba. Traditional soba making techniques combine with clear water to create a strong noodle. The soba is harvested each year in summer and autumn; the fresh soba of autumn known as new soba and available from late October.

www.nagano-cvb.or.jp

An economic powerhouse and home to the Nagano Prefectural Government Office, Nagano City is also a prime destination for hot spring fans, boasting many hot springs that visitors can go to on day trips.The city is home to the Joshinetsu Highland National Park that

served as an Olympic venue where even beginners can enjoy skiing and snowboarding, and more traditional cultural sites such as Zenko-ji temple and Togakushi shrine.The food is also exceptional, with the delicious Shinshu soba and oyaki being the local specialties.

NagaNoA key city of the Shinshu region with the smell of hot springs in the air

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Niseko United is the name given to the collection of four ski resorts located on the Niseko Annupuri mountain, which stands 1,308m above sea level, and which forms the eastern-most part of the Niseko Volcanic Group. A special location amongst the vast wilderness of Hokkaido, Niseko Annupuri offers a stunning view of Mt. Youtei, the main peak of Niseko. Seasonal winds from the Eurasian continent pass over the Sea of Japan, drawing up high levels of moisture that in turn brings the

perfect powder snow to the region throughout the winter months.The majestic outline of the Niseko Annupuri mountainside and the beautiful winter forests offer an unforgettable skiing experience for both beginner and expert skiers alike.The skiing areas running from east to west on the south side of the Niseko Annupuri mountains are the Niseko Hanazono Ski Resort, the Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Resort, Niseko Village Ski Resort, and the Niseko Annupuri Ski Area.

Niseko is the most well known of Japans skiing areas amongst skiing enthusiasts, and is visited by over 20,000 visitors from Australia each year.The story began in the 1980s when Australians who visited the area spread the word about the allure of Niseko, leading to a steady increase in visitors from Australia with each passing year. Today, there are numerous luxury condominiums that Australians have developed and invested in, and the town is almost like an Australian village where families can enjoy extended stays.

HOKKAIDOA ski paradise with the best powder snow in the world

NISEKOFour world-class resorts in one

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Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Resort

The largest of the four skiing areas in the region, the Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Resort offers not only the latest facilities, but superb powder snow, accommodation ranging from hotels to condominiums, hot springs, restaurants, and more amongst the foothills of the mountains.

Information: http://www.grand-hirafu.jp

Niseko Hanazono Ski Resort

A snow resort with everything from powder snow to a park area. Many attractions are on offer, from various trails and Hokkaidos largest park area to half pipes. The Strawberry Fields ski run is known for its unique geographical formation, and the Hanazono 308 facility is perfect for relaxing after skiing.

Information: http://hanazononiseko.com

Niseko Village Ski Resort

Here, the forested slopes directly connected to two resort hotels offer a skiing course through virgin forest, making for the perfect resort space. Take in some of the leading powder cruising in the country! A snow school, various activities, and programs aimed at children are also on offer.

Information: http://www.niseko-village.com

Niseko Annupuri Ski Area

Enjoy some of the best powder snow on wide skiing courses that only Annupuri can boast, along with carefully planned groomed runs. The surrounds are home to many interesting hot springs, and the area is the perfect spot to enjoy one of the great draws of winter - open-air hot spring bathing.

Information: http://annupuri.info

Carving some powder at NisekoPlenty to keep the kids amused

Niseko Annupuri Ski Resort

It is not unheard of to have -20oC temperatures

during night skiing

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Experienced skiers in Hokkaido speak of a paradise of powder snow. This paradise is the area known as Hokkaido's Powder Belt, home to the very best powder snow on offer in Japan. This belt region runs along the center of Hokkaido and encompasses the backcountry ski areas of the Daisetsuzan Park that includes

Kurodake, Asahidake, Mt. Tokachi, Mt. Furano, the Kamui Ski Links, Furano Ski Resort, and the Hoshino Resorts Tomamu Ski Resort.The inland location of the belt region means it has a dry climate, which results in a light powder snow. Have a taste of this powder snow paradise for yourself, by hopping onto one of the many backcountry ski tours and off-piste tours.

THE POWDER BELT of Central HokkaidoSki 5 areas & backcountry in one holiday

Plumes of smoke from AsahidakePhotos: Masaaki Kato

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Back Country Skiing with a Taste of Steam

When snow forms and falls to the ground, building up without melting, it becomes a light, dry powder. The snow here is known as steam to the locals for the way it kicks up into the air without resistance in a fine mist of snow as you wind your way down the slopes.Daisetsuzan National Park, a short drive from Furano City, is a backcountry field where this type of powder snow is in abundance. The mountain ranges reaching out from Asahidake, the highest of the mountains in the north at 2,290 m above sea level, to Mt. Furano in the south, are always host to a soft snow. The breathtaking landscape of the active volcano Mt. Tokachi, combined with courses offering powder snow of the highest quality, make for an outstanding backcountry skiing course. And what better way to finish it all off than with a trip to the natural hot springs in the area with their view over the mountains.

Off-Piste Skiing on the Powder Snow

The term off-piste refers to backcountry skiing that can be accessed immediately from skiing areas. Reached via lifts and ropeways, there is no need to hike out to such areas on foot, making them the perfect place for those looking to take in as much of the powder snow as possible. The off-piste ski areas near Mt. Furano offer some of the highest quality powder snow across the entire world. You can enjoy the best of each of these areas by joining tours led by experienced local guides.Amazing off-piste areas around the Furano Ski Resort such as Asahidake, Kamui Ski Links, and Hoshino Resorts Tomamu, which can be accessed via day trips from Furano, are a must see.

Information: https://www.facebook.com/HokkaidoPowderBelt

Heading to the Furano Town on Furano Blue Bird Day at Furano ski Resort

Backcountry skiing from the top of Mt. Kurodake

Cat Tour in Hoshino Resort Tomamu

Sidecountry skiing at Kamui ski links

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Sapporo City sees over 12 million tourists each year. Hardly surprising when you consider the many attractions that await, from the kindly, welcoming character of the locals, to the surprisingly nature-filled city, its well-developed traffic network, tourist spots, and more.One of Sapporos greatest highlights is the vast array of traditional Japanese bars and

sushi stores that offer a taste of the fresh produce from the mountains and the oceans of Hokkaido.The chill, fresh air that greets you on arrival to Sapporo City after landing at New Chitose Airport and heading out via JR or bus is unlike any other. Lets take a look at some of the many attractions that await in this, the city of sights, Sapporo.

City of Hospitality,

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Tourist Hot Spotsin Hokkaido

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