issue 14 2016FREE

Explore the unique and

alluring cultural richness that is

JAPAN

The latest go-to place HOKURIKU

Awesome, but little-known ski resorts

The Japanese food boom RAMEN

The peak Japanese beverage experience SAKE

OMOTENASHI The spirit of Japanese hospitality

JSTYLE IS PUBLISHED BY

NICHIGO PRESS AUSTRALIA PTY. LTD.Level 3, 724-728 George St., Sydney

NSW AustraliaGENERAL INQUIRIES

TEL (02)9211-1155 FAX (02)9211-1722EMAIL npsyd@nichigo.com.au

WEBSITES j-style.com.au / nichigopress.jpwww.nichigo.com.au

EDITORIALEDITOR IN CHIEF Kazuya Baba

DEPUTY EDITOR IN CHIEF Yoshiko ArakawaEDITORS

Haruka Osoegawa, Marie Sekiwa, Tadasu HaradaTRANSLATORS & WRITERS

Charlene Lim, Christopher Hall,Dennis Bott, Heather Glass,

Margaret Price, Miona Ikeda, Shunichi Ikeda,Chiyo Kamino, Tetsuo Nakahara

DESIGNART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER Kosaku Makino

DESIGNERS

Junko Wakimura, Tomoko ShimotsumaCOVER IMAGE Ameshin

ADVERTISINGGENERAL MANAGER Kazuya Baba

GOLD COAST BRANCH MANAGER Keiji SakaidaSYDNEY SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Sachiko Ikeda, Naoto Ijichi,Natsuki Shimamoto, Yasuko Fukai

NICHIGO PRESS PUBLICATIONSPUBLISHER Ike Ikeguchi

GENERAL MANAGER Kazuya BabaACCOUNTANT Rose Shen

EDITORIAL npeditor@nichigo.com.auDESIGN npart1@nichigo.com.au

ADVERTISING npsales@nichigo.com.au

issue 14 2016 FREE

04 Prologue

OMOTENASHI

06 So just what is OMOTENASHI?08 Experience of OMOTENASHI10 OMOTENASHIandthefivesenses15 AMEZAIKU, gift of happiness 16 Experience OMOTENASHI

TRAVEL

SHINJUKU21 Shinjuku adventure day & night HOKURIKU26 Rediscovering Hokuriku

TRAVEL - SKI

TOHOKU34 Bewitching area of intense cold NAGANO The joys of a huge, popular resort40 little-known outside Japan HOKKAIDO Hokkaido powder belt 44 - magical places

TRAVEL - AIRLINE48 The changing face of air travel

TRAVEL - TIPS50 Travelling in Japan54 Travel tips

SUBCULTURES56 Akihabara59 OTAKU culture in Australia

GOURMET62 What is Sake?65 Food68 Ramen

LIVING70 Finding a place to stay in Japan74 Fukushima kids dive into dolphin adventure76 Japanese manners and etiquette78 Understanding Japanese expressions80 Event calendar 2016

DISCLAIMER: While we take every care in ensuring that material published in jstyle is accurate, data and information may change after the date of publication, 28 Oct

2015. Nichigo Press cannot take responsibility for the content of advertisements and contributions from external persons or entities. No material may be reproduced in part or in whole without written consent from the copyright holders. Nichigo Press Australia requires as part of its terms and conditions of contract that the content of advertisements do not infringe the rights of any third party and do not breach any

provision of the Trade Practices Act 1974 (Cth) or the Fair Trading Act 1987 (NSW) or similar legislation enacted in other states of Australia (or other jurisdictions). Nichigo Press cannot be held responsible for advertisements that breach these conditions.

All other photos not credited in this magazine are provided courtesy of Japan National Tourism OrganizationJNTO.

HAVE THE ANNUAL ISSUE OF JSTYLE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR!To place a mail order, send a cheque or money order for $10 (incl. GST, postage and handling fees) together with your name and address to: NICHIGO PRESS PO BOX A2612, Sydney South NSW 1235Delivery may be subject to postal system delays. Nichigo Press disclaims any responsibility for such delays. Offer available in Australia only.

CONTENTS

MailOrder

10

29

15

jStyleVol.143

Japan never ceases to fascinate. By no means a large country, it is as if it were made up of many different nations, with many and diverse cultures and customs existing side by side. For example, the two major cities that epitomise Japan, Tokyo and Osaka, are a case in point. There is such a difference in type, that there is a question mark over whether Tokyo people and Osaka people can really be described in the same breath as Japanese. They talk differently - even using different words - and their food and even their temperaments are very different.

Japan is divided into 47 areas, known as prefectures. Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Hokkaido are examples. And very surprisingly, each area has its own different culture. For example, just stepping across the border into a neighbouring prefecture raises the possibility of different food and different customs, which is what makes Japan so fascinating and interesting.

Much of this difference has to do with Japanese history. Within Japan, the narrow archipelago is further divided into smaller areas, all of which have a history of territorial battles. There were even times in history when relocating to a neighbouring prefecture was very difficult. So it is this history that has given rise to the existence of tiny regional cultures. For that reason, and depending on the parts of Japan you visit, your impressions of the country may be very different.

Traditionally, international visitors to Japan have primarily travelled from the modern cities typical of those anywhere in the world, such as Tokyo and Osaka, to Nara and Kyoto where Japans ancient traditions still exist, and to the ski areas of Hokkaido and Nagano. In recent years also, an area

that has attracted attention is the place we are featuring in this edition of jStyle, Hokuriku. It is on the Japan Sea side of the country, opposite the Pacific side where Tokyo, the gateway to Japan, and other more familiar places are located, and so has not attracted a lot of attention. With the opening of the Hokuriku area to Japans pride, its high-speed shinkansen railway, circumstances have changed significantly. To date not very well known to those outside Japan, Hokuriku is suddenly in the spotlight. We would like your first discovery of just how appealing the area is to be through the pages of this magazine.

To skiing, and a ski destination attracting attention recently is the Tohoku area. Located in the mid-point between the popular destinations of Hokkaido and Nagano, Tohoku is known as a region of very deep snow. We have also featured the attractions of Tohoku. Please do use the magazine as a reference when making plans for your next ski holiday.

And the centrepiece of this, our 14th edition of jStyle, is our omotenashi feature. Omotenashi is a word that describes the kind and hospitable treatment and services afforded a guest, and is considered a very Japanese concept. The expression and the culture it describes were introduced to the world by the Japanese announcer at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics invitation event. In this edition we look at omotenashi from many different angles. We hope that knowing about this aspect of the Japanese psyche will make your visit to Japan that much more enjoyable.

It is a pleasure to be able to bring this up-to-the-minute edition of jStyle to you again this year. We trust you enjoy reading it.

Words: Kazuya BabaTranslation: Heather Glass

EDITORIAL PROLOGUE TO JSTYLE MAGAZINE

4 jStyle Vol.14

WELCOME

OMOTENASHI Readers are no doubt aware that in 2020 Tokyo will host the summer Olympics and the 16th Paralympics. A range of initiatives are being taken in Japan to prepare to welcome guests from all around the world. At the same time, the word of omotenashi, which is used to express Japan's own unique brand of hospitality now draws attention from Japanese people.

Traditionally the Japanese have extolled a tranquil demeanour, in which it is natural to be grateful every day, to love ones home town, to be friends with neighbours in a spirit of mutual assistance, to be respectful of the elderly,

to demonstrate love and affection for children, and to live each day politely. It is not necessary that a persons way of life or their daily doings be ostentatious; the true worth and joy of living are given expression in the ability to grow together by relating to those around with sincerity and sensitivity.

This spirit of mutual help of course extends also to travellers, but for visitors from outside Japan, there are some aspects that no doubt invoke curiousity. In this edition of jStyle we explore the nature of Japanese omotenashi and the experiences it may enhance.

FEATURE

jStyle Vol.14 5

6 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

SO JUST WHAT IS OMOTENASHI?Words: Yoshiko Arakawa, Translation: Heather Glass

If you look up the word omotenashi in the dictionary, you will find these definitions.1. treatment of a guest, reception2. delicacies served to a guest, hospitality3. behaviour toward people and things, attitude4. treatment of things, or arrangements,

management5. physical demeanour, carriage

Omotenashi derives from a combination of the words for hold (motte) and accomplish (nasu). Traditionally, at its core were personal behaviour - expressed as carriage or demeanour - accommodation of another - evident in attitude or behaviour, arrangements and management - and adornment - apparent in usage of things, or treatment. To these has been added the element of serving delicacies to another, rounding out the total concept of omotenashi.

Omotenashi is characterised by selfless action that does not seek return; it is behaviour that is not two-faced. The custom of tipping, for example, never used to exist in Japan. From before the days when service became business, the spirit of omotenashi flourished as something founded in the spirit of rendering service. It was seen in hosting someone in the beauty and discipline of the tea ceremony, or in pilgrimage, as epitomised by those who engage in the ascetic practice of traversing the spiritual spaces of the 88 Buddhist temples of Shikoku.

By its nature, omotenashi is definitely not extravagant. If anything, its virtue is in hospitality that is fitted to size, and more than anything, is heartfelt. The aesthetic that supports it, of necessity, does not require magnificence, but a wabi sabi beauty that incorporates within it the iridescence and changing of the

seasons, comfortable space that may be confined and plain, but in which there is communion, and an incomplete beauty that is nevertheless suggestive of completeness.

Examples are a perfectly groomed garden shown at its best by the scattering of fallen leaves, or an umbrella left quietly beside an entrance by a host for their guest. Imperceptible as such actions may seem, they are guided by an aesthetic that communicates caring. To notice these ministrations, it is appropriate for both host and the recipient of omotenashi to prepare a degree of latitude in their souls, and above all else to hold purity and innocence in their hearts.

The culture of omotenashi was created from a blending of the uniquely Japanese attention to detail, with tradition and culture from a long history within which there have been many changes, but at its core is the desire to bestow care and consideration on another.

Hidden within omotenashi is an ideology; the ancient Japanese belief that no matter the brevity of an encounter, it is an isolated moment in time that will never be repeated. This concept has been honoured and preserved into the modern day in sayings such as ichi go ichi e (one occasion, one encounter), and sode fureau mo tashou no en (even the brushing of sleeves is karma).

It may be that this honouring of the moment in which people come together as something rare and strangely precious that happens just once in a lifetime, the desire to make that encounter a wonderful, unparalleled experience, and holding in affection that ideology and conduct, together constitute the Japanese philosophy that is at the root of the spirit of omotenashi.

jStyle Vol.14 7

Omotenashi spirit is deeply connected to Japanese mentality, values and culture, but sometimes the Japanese social

norm may seem unusual in the eyes of visitors from outside Japan. So we asked five Australians to share their Japanese

experiences and discoveries. We asked them three questions. What is Japanese hospitality? What impressed them the most? Where do they recommend to go to enjoy Japanese hospitality?

Join us as we dig deep into omotenashi.

When I hear the word hospitality, I remember the taxi driver I met at the very beginning of my life in Tokyo back in 2011. Upon arrival at Narita Airport, I had to go to the other terminal to transfer. So I took a taxi, and asked the driver to go to Terminal #1. However, he mistook it for Terminal #2; maybe it was because of a language barrier, I guess. When the car arrived at the wrong terminal, I noticed the misunderstanding and explained to him that I needed to go to Terminal #1, not #2. When he realised what had just happened, he stopped the fare meter and sent me to the right terminal without charging for the additional ten minutes. I was very impressed by his attitude. In any other countries, you cant expect such politeness from taxi drivers.

COURTESY OF A TAXI DRIVER

DANIEL

Lived inJapan for

2years

To me the biggest omotenashi experience I had in Japan was at a traditional Japanese ryokan inn in Kusatsu, where the staff and

owners really made sure the stay was a pleasant vacation. There wasnt one large thing they did that made it go over the top, but rather the combination of tens of smaller things that made the

entire experience great. From turning

your shoes around for you in the genkan entrance to bringing out your futon bedding while you were having dinner and the welcome home feeling you got after coming back from a stroll in the shopping district. They really strive for the entire package experience to be perfect, and thats what makes the quality of service in Japan better than the rest of the world.

LITTLE THINGS MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE

JAMES

Lived inJapan for

8years

EXPERIENCEOF

OMOTENASHI

8 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

Japan is a very hospitable country where I always feel welcomed. I think hospitality is a part of Japanese culture. As I started working with Japanese people, I began to understand the Japanese work ethic. They have high morals and strong loyalties to their jobs, regardless of their positions. For example, I recall the moment when I was at a register in a supermarket. The cashier tried so

hard to scan all the groceries as quickly as possible, since there was a long queue behind me. I appreciated her, but I thought if it had been a supermarket in Australia, she would have been more relaxed. Japanese politeness and persistence for perfection sometimes may look too serious to Australian eyes, but it is actually their way to express their gratitude for your visit.

HOSPITALITY IS A WORK ETHIC OF JAPAN

BILL Lived in

Japan for

8years

During my eight years stay in Tokyo, I realised how obedient, polite and hard working the people in Japan are. I attended shogakko, or primary school, where they taught me a lot of things, but the most important of all was how to be obedient and stay calm in difficult situations. That really helped me when the major earthquake hit Japan on March 11, 2011. Amongst the places I visited, I definitely recommend the Peace Memorial Museum in Hiroshima, the Kinkakuji Golden Temple in Kyoto and the Sky Tree in Tokyo. For children like we were, Disney Resort is not be missed. Japan is a beautiful and peaceful country and people are very kind and courteous to both adults and kids. The places I had visited, the food I had tasted, or the seasons I had experienced in Japan - I will cherish every memory.

Every time I am in Japan, I am always so delighted by the quality and service at

the smaller restaurants. The staff of my favourite restaurant,

Kushiya, in Tokyo, treat me and their customers like

family. They welcome you with a boisterous Irrashaimase! upon entering, and the ojichan who is the master chef, while cooking was always

keen to chat with travellers. Sometimes

the obachan, who is the hostess would be giving me

some omake, or little extras, just to make sure I was eating healthily. At

the end of the night, they both wish you a good night and safe travels from out the front of their restaurant and are eager to see you again soon. When you are in Japan, dont hesitate to go into the smaller, family run restaurants, order the omakase chefs special and you never know, you might just meet your new extended family, like I did.

MY SPECTACULAR TIME IN JAPAN

TRY SMALL RESTAURANTS,

ENJOY COMMUNICATIONS!

NASHRAH

PHILLIP

VisitedJapan inAugust2015

Lived inJapan for

8years

jStyle Vol.14 9

In this feature we introduce you to the many different

ways in which omotenashi style hospitality is extended

and the things in which it is given form, to appeal

to the senses through the eyes, ears and palate of a guest. We trust we will

help you to savour the best of Japans omotenashi

culture, by alerting you to watch out for, listen out for and hone your sensitivity to these almost imperceptible

ministrations.

OMOTENASHI AND

THE FIVE SENSES

Words: Yoshiko Arakawa, Translation: Heather Glass

JAPANESE GARDENS AND OMOTENASHI

Among several traditional cultural forms, the sensitivity and feelings of the Japanese are skilfully expressed visually, and wonderfully presented to guests, in the world of the Japanese garden.

There is no single form of Japanese garden, but a variety of styles and types according to era. Large-scale gardens emerged in the Heian period, using lakes, trees and stones to achieve the palace-style characteristic of the architecture of the era, while towards the end of the Heian period, the jodo style of garden emerged to express gokuraku jodo, or the Buddhist paradise, and is best represented by Byodoin Temple in Kyoto. In the samurai era karesansui dry landscape gardens were made in the style typified by the stone garden of Ryoanji Temple.

Each are Japanese gardens in different styles, but there is a common principle in their creation. The positioning of

rocks, trees and water is not simply for beauty, but expresses the Japanese spiritual world. Ryoanji Temple typifies the karesansui style. The garden is an extremely simple space, with a scattering of 15 stones across a surface of plain white gravel in a narrow area only 25 metres wide and ten metres deep, but it unmistakably preserves its historical context, when Zen Buddhism was at its zenith. Where there is no water or lake, nor even trees, the spiritual world of the Japanese and their sense of the cosmos is skilfully expressed by the clever use of stones as the gardeners material. Expressed through the magical positioning of rocks, there are mountains and water flowing where in reality there can be none.

The subtle, profound and tranquil perspective on the world expressed in the Zen garden never fails to captivate the hearts of people from across and beyond Japan, even today. The technique used is called mitate, or likening something to something else by drawing a metaphorical

SIGHT

10 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

comparison. It draws on the imagination of the recipient by expressing something that is not actually there, and in creating such a garden, what is therefore top of mind in planning every element is that viewer is moved by what they see.

The garden uses a total of 15 stones, but a unique feature of its design is that no matter the angle from which it is viewed, there is always one stone that is hidden and cannot be seen. In the Orient, the number 15 is a number that expresses perfection. In other words, the design of the garden is expressing a state of imperfection and therefore holds within it a hidden message. The viewer is being invited to take the opportunity to look deep within themselves and seek out that within that is lacking.

By seeming to draw an extension line to the imagination of the viewer, the creation of a Japanese garden is therefore indivisible from the principle of omotenashi, which is founded in a unique aesthetic and the perspective of the spectators feelings. The visiting guest is quietly hosted therein. SOUND

SOUND AND OMOTENASHI

Historically the Japanese have come up with many ingenious ways to remain cool in summer. They have devised fans, bamboo blinds, the sprinkling of water and wind chimes.

The wind chime, or furin, provides both a visual and an auditory means of creating a sense of coolness, and has been beloved of many for hundreds of years as a poetic evocation of summer.

When the cool, clear tinkling of the furin echoes through the air and reaches the ears of a guest, it tells them that a breeze has passed through. In this way, Japanese have of old created a pleasant atmosphere by transforming breeze to aural colour.

Furin comes in many materials and timbres. There is the delicate tone of

the tinkling Edo furin made of glass; the solid design and reverberating ding of the resonant Nanbu iron furin; the charcoal furin that promises cleaner air and the relaxing effect of negative ions; the ceramic furin with its characteristic dry, yet comforting sound; the high-pitched, but still serene timbre of the brass furin that seeps into the body; the bamboo furin that evokes the ethnic sound of the gamelan or the xylophone once begun, the list just keeps growing.

When the wind catches the strip of paper hanging from any of them and they sound freely with an irregular rhythm, the effect on the ear of the listener is an indescribable sense of relaxation. As the ears are cooled by the fluctuating, irregular, naturally generated rhythms, at a certain point the soul becomes calmer, and both mind and body are present and refreshed.TO

NY

CLA

RK

E

jStyle Vol.14 11

OSHIBORI AND OMOTENASHI

There is a traditional custom in Japan of serving guests with a refreshing hand towel, known as an oshibori.

The practice dates back to the Heian period, in the 8th to 12TH centuries. A reference to oshibori in Japans oldest existing chronicle, the Kojiki, describes the custom of court nobles providing a moist cloth to guests invited to their home. By the Muromachi period in the 14th century, that had changed to a cotton towel, and it became the practice to place a wooden tub containing water and a hand towel for travellers at the entrance of taverns. Guests would drench the hand towel and wipe their hands and feet clean. Travel at the time was on foot, and footwear was

in the style seen in the samurai movies; straw sandals, so feet would get very dirty. Before entering a room, travellers would soak the hand towel provided in water, wring it out and wipe their feet clean. Cleaning the body also relieved the spirit. The action of wringing out the towel, or shiboru, is the source of the word oshibori.

After the passage of much time, during the postwar rebuilding of Japan, food outlets flourished and renting out oshibori emerged as a business. With subsequent development in the catering industry, systems of mass production came into being. In this way the oshibori, the first thing given to a customer as soon as they enter a restaurant in Japan, may be used with impunity, in the confidence that the oshibori is clean. In a rigorous system of

managed reuse, only products that have been thoroughly washed, disinfected and inspected are shipped.

Before being given, in the hot summer the oshibori is completely chilled, while in the cold winter it is heated. Placed gently on the hand, the hot oshibori sends a blush of warmth to the skin and warms the heart, or cold, the thrill of cool quietens the heart.

The custom of oshibori has transformed over time, but exists in the present as an embodiment of the Japanese spirit of omotenashi. If you actually see oshibori in a Japanese restaurant, direct your thoughts to its history, take the oshibori given to you, wipe your hands, take a deep breath and feel yourself purified.

* Not every Japanese restaurant will provide oshibori.

TOUCH

12 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

TASTE

TEA CEREMONY AND OMOTENASHI

Just as in the West where guests are hosted with a cup of tea, in Japan there has been a culture of entertaining guests by enjoying green tea together. It was during the Kamakura period from the 12th to the 14th century that the custom of tea drinking as a tasteful pastime spread across Japan. Over time, and with the advent of the Muromachi period from the 14th to the 16th century the custom of chanoyu, or tea ceremony, emerged, in which a guest would be invited to enjoy whisked powdered tea, or matcha, and objects imported from China, or karamono, would be used as utensils and to decorate the zashiki drawing room. The famous tea master, Sen-no-rikyu, perfected the way of tea over 400 years ago in the Azuchi Momoyama period. The traditional culture of tea became an integral part of Japanese life and it has continued to bring spiritual richness and pleasure ever since.

The matcha used in tea ceremony is a type of green tea and is made by powdering the leaves of the tea plant. The carefully grown matcha is diligently whisked to a froth by the host in the tea ceremony room and while slightly bitter, it becomes a drink with a depth of flavour, in which umami and sweetness sit well together. Before drinking tea, guests at tea ceremonies are first served traditional sweets to enhance the flavour of the matcha. After that, they enjoy the same drink, sometimes passing the tea bowl to share. The practice of everyone drinking a little matcha from a single bowl brings the guests in the

room together in communion. Taking small sips and so tasting a little at a time means the aftertaste lingers long in the mouth, and tasting the rounded flavour of the tea as it gradually infuses the mouth is a delicate pleasure to be thoroughly enjoyed.

There are different schools of tea ceremony and the way in which each school makes tea is different. However, what we can say is that what is common to all schools of tea is that any host who entertains with matcha has a firm desire to do so competently and to have their guests enjoy the taste of the tea they imbibe. The true pleasure of the tea ceremony is that as a host hosts their guest and the guest drinks the tea with thanks, the communion between them deepens. In addition, when delicious green tea is tasted as part of a tea ceremony in a tea room, it is not just the sense of taste, but all of the five senses that are fully engaged. Completion is reached in awareness of the total experience,

which incorporates being in concert with the seasons and time of year, the beauty of the hosts deportment and the modesty of their words, guests being considerate of each other and the taste and preference of the host apparent in their choice of utensils.

If you have the chance to take part in a tea ceremony, please embrace the experience of the coming together that this fleeting moment in time provides. Watching the flowing beauty of the carriage of the tea ceremony will, strangely, cause you to forget the passage of time. The feel of the tatami reed mats beneath the soles of your feet, the aroma of the tea, the heat conducted to your palms, the flavours and the encounters with others; the true pleasure of the tea ceremony is in fully tasting each of the moments described in the principle of ichi go ichi e (one occasion, one encounter). Please do have a drink of tea; it will transport you to a place of ease that is anything but humdrum.

jStyle Vol.14 13

SMELLFRAGRANCE AND OMOTENASHI

The Kannon (Kwan Yin) Sutra mentions fragrance, highlighting the way in which scents have from ancient times had a position of importance in religious and cultural activities. Beautiful scents and sounds were said to lead to paradise. Aromas that guide one to a state other than the everyday, perhaps play a part in linking the human sense of smell to spirituality.

Today we have the culture of scent which, it may be said, holds special significance in Japan of which the most typical expression of this form of sensual enjoyment is incense. The aroma of incense is the very essence of a harmonious world. There are spicy ingredients, pungent to the nose, such as sandalwood, frankincense, the camphor-like borneol and cinnamon. There are woody scents that calm

the emotions, and there are fragrances that provide a strong sense of refreshment. Each emits its own unique note. For that reason, if mixed in the wrong way, scents may war with each other, resulting in a disagreeable smell.

Historically, however, Japan has succeeded in cleverly combining several singular incense ingredients to create a harmoniously aromatic world of scent. In these invisible aromas we can sense the important place of harmony in the Japanese psyche. The history of incense blending is long, dating back to a time when the nobles of the Heian period from the 8th to the 12th century themselves mixed incense, and we are advised to this day that those scent blends were born of a transcendent aesthetic sensibility.

Fragrances were not smelt with the nose, but were put together in the brain; they were a product of creativity. The sensibility and aesthetic awareness cultivated in Japan evolved and was protected, simply because Japanese people lived in harmony with nature, learned from the providence of nature and experienced nature in their souls, and because in their hearts was the spirit of wa, loosely translated as harmony.

Incense has also been widely used in Japan in the hosting of guests. Putting out the flame on the tip of a stick of incense by fanning it with an open palm means the vapours are stabilised to just the proper degree and from the incense rises a white smoke that visually draws the observer in. Lighting some incense and placing it on a table imparts to guests in that space an exalted, tranquil moment in time. Guests on the receiving end of this aspect of omotenashi could dreamily gaze on the trembling smoke, or close their eyes, forget everything and relax, to become one with the fragrance.

The average person in their daily lives is busy, experiences unease and finds it difficult to relax. In Japan, therefore, particularly when visited by a guest the host will seek to restore serenity by lighting incense and encouraging the visitor to gradually relax and be at ease. It is as if the host asks the smoke to extend a hand to the guest to guide them into a sacred space.

14 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

Traditional Japanese candy art or amezaiku became popular during the Edo period (1603 1867). In a subculture of the streets, candy merchants made candy into animal shapes and sold them to customers. And today, the tradition lives on.

Shinri Tezuka, owner of Ameshin, has been making amezaiku for six years. Self-taught, he has developed a unique style of crafting the candy sculptures. He opened an exhibition space and studio in Asakusa in 2013, and recently opened a new shop in Soramachi, a commercial complex next to Tokyo Skytree in July, 2015.

To make a five cm-long piece of candy art, the main process has to be done in 4 minutes while the candy is soft enough to shape. He uses a candy ball made of sugar, water and starch

to start. The temperature of the candy is 80 degrees Celsius. He shapes it as if having a conversation with the candy. He stretches the ball with his fingers, and uses

tweezers and scissors to fashion the desired shape and features

before the material gets hard. His candy sculptures are so

clever and beautifully detailed they seem way too good to eat. After four minutes of sculpting the candy, he adds the finishing touches and then colours them by hand.

Tezuka says he loves the immediacy of this craft. I like performing right in front of customers so that I can get immediate feedback.

The motifs he uses for his candy craft are mainly animals and other creatures that are traditionally symbols of good luck in Japan, such as goldfish, rabbits and cranes.

Amezaiku is Japans original, so tend to concentrate on animals that have long been auspicious symbols for the Japanese, said Tezuka. And many people enjoy seeing the good old traditions of Japan reflected in amezaiku.

Each of his creations is a one-off with a slightly different face or shape. Customers have the added enjoyment of choosing a piece that really speaks to them. This is the fun part of handcraft according to Tezuka.

Besides workshops at his studio in Asakusa, Tezuka has also offered exhibitions and workshops internationally. He held a workshop in New York in May, 2015 and made a big success.

People in New York didnt expect that we make the sculpture of candy by hand in such a short time, said Tezuka. And they were surprised to see this is actually made out of candy.

Tezuka currently has five apprentices to pass his skill of candy art to the next generation. At Soramachi shop, Tezuka and students have demonstrations that customer can actually see how they make amezaiku.

We cant send our candy art abroad because it is so fragile, said Tezuka. So, I hope overseas visitors will come and see our amezaiku here. It's a Japanese original, and in the spirit of omotenashi, we would love to show them what we do.

AMESHIN STUDIO IN ASAKUSAAddress: 1F 1-4-3 Imado, Taito-ku, TokyoOpen: 11 am-6 pm, closed on Thursdays.

AMESHIN SHOP IN SORAMACHIAddress: 4F, Tokyo Skytree Town Soramachi, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku, TokyoOpen: Daily, 10 am-9 pm

Web: www.ame-shin.com

AMEZAIKU, GIFT OF HAPPINESS

The spirit of omotenashi, found in the heart of an amezaiku craftsman

Words: Tetsuo Nakahara

jStyle Vol.14 15

The spirit of omotenashi, or Japanese hospitality, may be found in every aspect of Japanese customer service. Here are some examples

of places where you can feel the essence of omotenashi.

Keio Plaza Hotel is not just a place to stay, but also a cultural experience. Check out the koto harp performance, or the art exhibition in the lobby, or sing along with karaoke in the bar overlooking the breathtaking night view of Shinjuku.

Address: 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel: 81-3-3344-0111Web: www.keioplaza.com

Tempura is an authentic Japanese dish of deep-fried vegetables and seafood that calls for very delicate cooking skills. The expert chefs at Endo Yasaka are all from Kyoto, and take pride in serving seasonal ingredients and catering to customers from all around the world.

Address: 566 Komatsu-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Tel: 81-75-551-1488Web: www.gion-endo.com/english

Japanese style inns, or ryokan, are synonymous with omotenashi. Unwind in a classic hot spring and explore historical architecture on beautiful Hakone mountain.

Address: 74 Tounosawa, Hakone-machi, Kanagawa Tel: 81-460-85-5301Web: www.fukuzumi-ro.com/eng/index.htmlKEIO PLAZA HOTEL

TEMPURA ENDO YASAKA

HAKONE FUKUZUMI-RO

EXPERIENCE OMOTENASHI Words: Chiyo Kamino

16 jStyle Vol.14

OMOTENASHI

From sake to Hello Kitty bags, Keio Department Store offers a full range of quality goods. To find the perfect souvenir, just ask the Keio information staff. For tax returns and free Wi-Fi, visit the Foreign Customer Counter on the 2nd floor.

Address: 1-1-4 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel: 81-3-3342-2111Web: info.keionet.com

Historically, Osaka is well-known as a city of merchants, and their spirit is deeply ingrained in the mind of the typical Osaka citizen. Along the 580 meters of the Shinsaibashi-suji arcade there are 180 shops, and in every one are shop attendants who will welcome you with a cheeky grin, or at least a cheerful greeting!

Address: 2-2-22 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku, Osaka Tel: 81-6-6211-1114Web: www.shinsaibashi.or.jp/lang/en

Need a cab? Dont take a taxi, catch a rickshaw instead! The Japanese word jinrikisha is the origin of the English word, rickshaw, which evidences the long history of this man-powered form of transportation. All drivers are very friendly and in-the-know, so sit back and enjoy the ride!

Address: 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo (In front of Kaminarimon)Tel: 81-3-3847-4443Web: ebisuya.com/en

Tea ceremony is the epitome of Japanese hospitality. Enjoy green tea in a variety of ways in the modern building of the Fukujuen Kyoto Flagship Store. There is a caf, a restaurant, a shop, a traditional tea room, and a workshop and gallery - multiple venues in which to savour the elegance of the ancient city.

Address: Shijo-Tominokoji, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto Tel: 81-75-221-2920Web: www.fukujuen-kyotohonten.com

Take a cruise through Osaka city in an open-topped boat. The urban design looks very different from the river than from the streets, and the boatmen know all the picture-perfect spots. Listen for directions as your skipper points out where to capture the best photo opportunities.

Address: 2 Osakajo, Chuo-ku, Osaka Tel: 81-570-035551Web: suijo-bus.jp/language/english

KEIO DEPARTMENT STORE, SHINJUKU

SHINSAIBASHI-SUJI SHOPPING CENTRE

EBISUYA

FUKUJUEN KYOTO FLAGSHIP STORE

AQUA MINI

jStyle Vol.14 17

SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR DUAL-TIMEIn 2015 Seiko, the makers of the worlds first GPS Solar watch the Astron, announce the worldwide release of their latest model equipped with dual time display.

Since the release of the revolutionary Quartz Astron watch in 1969, Seiko have constantly been at the forefront of watch technology and a pioneer in developing innovative products. In 2012, the world was introduced to the ground breaking Astron GPS solar series and in 2015, the evolution continues with their latest model, the 3rd generation series equipped with Dual-Time functionality.

18 jStyle Vol.14

THE EVOLUTION CONTINUES

Based on atomic clock accuracy, the GPS Solar System calibre offers the ultimate time keeping precision. The solar charging technology ensures that battery changes are not required and the seamless adjustment to the worlds 40 time zones through the smart sensor offers the utmost accuracy and ease of use. The unique link ring antenna guarantees consistent worldwide signal strength and users can also enjoy witnessing the watchs ability to connect to different satellites via its multifunction display.

Designed specifically for the global traveller and those crossing multiple time zones, the watch is now equipped with world-class dual time display functionality. With the press of a button, users can simultaneously display the current time based on any of the worlds 40 time zones they are in along with their home time zone by utilising the sub-dial at the all-new 6 oclock position. The watch also continues to offer the many benefits of the Perpetual Calendar function, a key feature since the very first Astron release in 2012.

The Dual-Time calibre is offered in a collection of eight main designs, all of which are distinctively and recognisably Astron. As with every Astron watch, the dials are clean, clear and easy to read. The cases are polished by hand, using Seikos unique Zaratsu technique, to be distortion-free, so that there is sharpness in every light reflection. The wide range of dial colours is made possible by Seikos mastery of energy management in watchmaking. These unique dials are the product of engineering excellence; Seikos own specially designed GPS module is so energy efficient that many different colours are possible. The bracelets are composed of individually designed links and are therefore tapered perfectly to the wrist for maximum comfort, however and wherever you may travel. There are five designs in titanium cases and three in steel.

Limited to just 5,000 watches, the 2nd generation 8X series once again features the unique design ascetics of Italian maestro Giorgetto Giugiaro in collaboration with his world renowned team. Brimming with Italian flair much like a concept car, the avant-garde architecture includes Arabic numerals, stripe patterns on the dial face and a special tyre wheel motif on the back of the watch. Strap options include a titanium band with white ceramics along with an all-natural interchangeable crocodile leather band that features red lining and beautiful 3 colour Italian inspired stitching.

GPS SOLAR SYSTEM DUAL TIME FUNCTIONALITY TRAVEL THE WORLD IN STYLE AND COMFORT

GUIGIARO DESIGN ITALIAN FLAIR

jStyle Vol.14 19

TRAVELIn this edition of jStyle we again visit the ski spots so popular with tourists from abroad and take a close look at Shinjuku, which is in Tokyo city, but depending on where you go will show you many different faces. We also feature Ishikawa Prefecture, which is enjoying lots of attention since being opened up by the

Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train line. From traditional national icons to hidden treasures that beckon the adventurous traveler, jStyle will take you on a journey through an array of destinations ideal for any travellers. And dont forget to take a look at our travel tips and useful advice on how to use public transport.

FEATURE

K

AN

AZ

AWA

CIT

Y/

JN

TO

20 jStyle Vol.14

ShinjukuAdventure

Day & Night

Shinjuku, located west of Tokyo, is known as the worlds busiest train station and is recognised as such in the Guiness Book of Records. More than two million people use Shinjuku Station to commute every day.

Shinjuku is divided into three areas. The west area of Shinjuku is a business district full of skyscrapers. The south area has a variety of shopping complexes, including the huge 14-storey Takashimaya Times Square shopping mall. And the east area is an amazing entertainment district full of restaurants, bars and clubs for an exciting night life.

Shinjuku offers not only bustling urban areas, but also historical temples and beautiful parks. It is a place that can satisfy all the expectations of Tokyo of any visitor to Japan. Words: Tetsuo Nakahara

TO

NY

CLA

RK

E

SHINJUKU GYOEN

Nishi-Shinjuku

MInami-Shinjuku

ShinjukuISETAN

KAGURAZAKA

KABUKICHOGOLDEN

GAIOMOIDEYOKOCHO

jStyle Vol.14 21

Shinjuku TRAVEL

Daydreamin Shinjuku

KINOKUNIYA BOOK STORE

Kinokuniya book store in Takashimaya Times Square, located a five-minute walk from the south exit of JR Shinjuku Station, has the biggest foreign book selection in Tokyo. The 6th floor is especially for foreign publications, where you can find wide range of books, magazine and Japanese comics translated into English.

ISETANIsetan department store was established in 1886, making it the oldest department store in Shinjuku. It has three buildings with a huge selection of international and domestic brands. Isetan is known as an icon in Shinjuku for lovers of shopping.

KAGURA-ZAKA

Kagurazaka, which literally means sacred music slope, is an ideal area to discover a traditional Japanese atmosphere in Shinjuku. The area used to be Japans premier pleasure district before World War II, with many geisha houses. Even now the area is redolent of old Japan with traditional houses and temples. There are also great restaurants and many interesting shops.

SHINJUKU GYOENIf you want to find a little peace in downtown Shinjuku, Shinjuku Gyoen is the place to be on a sunny day. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden located in the south of Shinjuku covers 58.7 hectares. From the end of March to April, the garden is a very popular cherry blossom viewing spot with more than 1,500 cherry blossom trees in the garden. It has three areas, including a Japanese traditional garden area, formal French and English landscape where you can take a walk. Shinjuku Gyoen is loved by locals and tourists as an oasis in the big city.

YA

SU

FUM

I NIS

HI

JNTO

YA

SU

FUM

I NIS

HI

JNTO

22 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Shinjuku

Nightlifein Shinjuku

KABUKICHOKabukicho is the area that never goes to sleep. The neon lights and the crowds of people are the icons of the night life here. The area covers over 3,000 entertainment facilities, including restaurants, izakaya pubs, karaoke bars, movie theatres and night clubs, making it the largest entertainment district in Japan.

GOLDEN GAIGolden Gai is an area with more than 200 small bars in six narrow alleys. Most bars here are only big enough to seat five to eight customers. The area used to be a site of prostitution in the 50s. Now, it has survived as a place where you can experience a unique Japanese bar culture.

OMOIDEYOKOCHO

Omoide Yokocho, literally memory lane, is a street area packed with small Japanese-style pubs. The area is not designed for tourists, so visitors can see what locals eat and drink in normal Tokyo life. Its a good place to mingle with locals and share a glass or two in a nostalgic atmosphere.

METROPOLITANThe Tokyo Metropolitan Government building has been a landmark of west Shinjuku since it was built in 1990. The building has two towers and is 243 metres tall. Both towers have free observation decks on the 45th floor where visitors can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views. On a clear day, you can see the beautiful Mt Fuji. But the highlight here is the night view. The north observation deck is open till 10:30 pm, and is a popular spot for viewing the spectacular Tokyo city lights.

TO

NY

CLA

RK

E

Ya

sufu

mi N

ishi

JN

TO

Yasu

fum

i Nis

hi

JNTO

jStyle Vol.14 23

Up Above The CityKeio Plaza Hotel Tokyo

Only a five-minute walk from Shinjuku station, Keio Plaza Hotel offers everything travellers need, plus superb views of the centre of the district.

According to Guinness World Records, Shinjuku is the busiest station in the world. Located on 11 lines, it is the hub of Tokyos railway system. Keio Plaza Hotel is located just 700 metres away, which means busy traveller guests can maximize their day; sightseeing, shopping, dining, or pub crawling. The two skyscraper towers of the hotel offer superb views from the guest rooms as seen in the photo above, and the hotels

pride - authentic Japanese guest experiences. Indulge in fine Japanese cuisine, relax in a cozy sake bar, and enjoy seasonal exhibitions... Let these experiences lead you into a dream, right up above the heart of Tokyo.

KEIO PLAZA HOTEL TOKYO2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku,Shinjuku-Ku, TokyoTel: 81-3-3344-0111Web: www.keioplaza.com

24 jStyle Vol.14

Feel the Heart of JapanIn the Heart of Tokyo

Even if your schedule is tight, you should never miss a chance to try the Japanese food on offer in Keio Plaza Hotel: sushi, tempura, teppanyaki, a traditional kaiseki course meal, or soba noodles. More than 20 restaurants and bars offer gourmet options, not only from Japan, but also from France, Italy, China and Korea, and there is also buffet dining. Bar Amanogawa is a perfect place for connoisseurs of sake, and Karaoke47 is waiting with its great night view to welcome singers.

Something that will delight you at first sight of the hotel are the ever-changing decorations and presentations in the lobby. Tsurushi-bina, lovely stuffed pendant ornaments celebrating Girls Festival in March, is an annual Keio Plaza Hotel specialty.

Free exhibitions featuring an introduction to authentic Japanese arts and culture, such as Arita porcelain, or paintings of Mt Fuji, are also held monthly.

In contrast to its modern architecture, Keio Plaza Hotel will entertain you with traditional cultural experiences.

Do not miss the rare opportunity to try on formal kimono and have your photo taken in the shrine, which is usually only available for wedding ceremonies.

Or relax to the sound of the traditional koto harp, performed regularly in the lobby.

If you are a pop culture princess, book a Hello Kitty room and jump into the world of all things kawaii!

Location-wise, Shinjuku is the best place to stay to maximize your Tokyo experience. It is very accessible to all major sightseeing spots and popular neighbourhoods, including Roppongi, Shibuya and Ginza. Shinjukus main shopping area is just a 15-minute walk, and the famous Kabukicho entertainment district only 20 minutes away on foot. A complimentary shuttle bus to and from Tokyo Disney Resort runs three times a day.

Keio Plaza Hotel is well prepared to cater to busy traveller requests, with a full range of facilities and services, including a beauty salon, business centre, clinic, convenience store, gift shop, gym, nursery, spa, and swimming pool (summer only) are all on offer. With typical warm hearted Japanese hospitality, hotel front staff are ready and willing to help plan your ongoing trip and to arrange local tours for you.

Food

Japanese Art

Culture

Location

Support

jStyle Vol.14 25

Rediscovering Hokuriku

The Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train began operating in March 2015. Japans Hokuriku region incorporates the three prefectures of Ishikawa, Toyama and Fukui. The many tourist destinations dotted throughout the area include traditional Japanese locations, hot springs and beautiful castle towns. This article focuses on Kanazawa, the gateway to Hokuriku, with tips about tourist spots you may want to visit.Words: Haruka Osoegawa Translation: Heather Glass

Higashi Chayagai JNTO

26 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Hokuriku

INTRODUCING NEW ROLLING STOCK WHATS GOOD ABOUT THE W7 CARRIAGE

The comfortable interior space features a strong sense of both design and functionality. The ordinary carriages incorporate a lattice design that is classically wa in taste. The green cars are elegant, and the gran class has reclining leather seats and in-built electric functionality.

The train fit out is the latest, incorporating barrier free universal design elements, equipment designed for comfort, such as power points in all seats, attention to energy conservation, with LED in-carriage lights, and beefed up security, with surveillance cameras covering the aisles.

The Nagano Shinkansen that formerly operated between Tokyo and Nagano was extended from Nagano to Kanazawa and was reborn as the Hokuriku Shinkansen on 14 March. With the launch of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, an overland journey to Kanazawa that once took close to four hours can now be completed - at top speed - in two hours and 28 minutes.

During the Edo period from the beginning of the 17th to the 19th century Kanazawa boasted the highest rice stipend of the 300 feudal domains, making it the wealthiest domain within the country. The city was a castle town, governed by the Maeda family, who were the rulers of the Kaga clan and whose stipend is spoken of as Hyakumangoku (one million koku) of Kaga. At the citys centre is Kenrokuen Garden, one of the three most famous gardens in Japan, facing which is Kanazawa Castle Park and the ruins of the feudal Maeda castle. A massive structure, Kanazawa Castle enjoys popularity as the epitome of the majesty of the Hyakumangoku of Kaga.

West of Korinbo, the busy shopping district, are the cobbled roads and earthen walls of the Nagamachi Buke Yashiki, or samurai residence district, which features the former homes of the Kaga clans retainers. The eastern street of chaya teahouses north-east of the castle, fairly close to the Asanogawa River, was born in 1820.

The traditional town houses lining the streets are unique for their latticed bay windows on the ground floor, and the plumb of their upper floors, which is high enough to accommodate Japanese-style zashiki drawing rooms, where guests sit on the floor. In the present day there is a growing number of tea shops, galleries and modern bars that all preserve the teahouse architecture.

Kanazawa is not the only area of interest. Ishikawa Prefectures neighbouring prefecture, Toyama, also has many attractions. Kurobe-Unazukionsen Station, newly built for the Hokuriku Shinkansen, is the gateway to the Kurobe and Unazuki onsen hot springs area with its famously prolific springs that flow from the Northern Alps.

The prefecture is also known for the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpen Route, which is a mountainous tourist route passing through the Northern Alps, comprising peak after peak reaching 3,000 metres above sea level and visited by tourists from at home and abroad. The Tateyama-Kurobe Alpen Route is the mountain traffic route linking Tateyama Station in Toyama Prefecture and Ougizawa Station in Nagano Prefecture. The route is famous for the snow corridor that appears when snow walls of around 20 metres in height form along both sides of the road. Each year from mid April to late June there is a snow walk, when it is possible to experience the Yuki-no-otani Snow Corridor. The walls of snow soaring on both sides are amazing as it shows the power of mother nature. The walk is an opportunity to get up close and personal with the wonders of nature at its mightiest.

HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN

OPENS

What used to take four and a half hours by train

by Hokuriku Shinkansen, at top speed, takes2 hours 28 min!

12 return flights/day

24 return Hokuriku Shinkansen journeys/day

Hokuriku just got closer!

Train journey to Hokuriku cut by

two hours

Now there are more options for what

used to be quicker by air!

Tokyo Station

Echigo Yuzawa Station

Echigo Yuzawa Station

Kanazawa Station

approx.1h15min

approx.3h

JAL6 return f lights/day

ANA6 return f lights/day

Yuki-no-otani Snow Corridor

NAGANO

TOKYO

KANAZAWATOYAMA

SHINTAKAOKA

KUROBEUNAZUKIONSEN

ITOIGAWA

UEDA

KUMAGAYAOMIYA

SAKUDAIRA

JOETSUMYOKO

IIYAMA

ANNAKAHARATAKASAKI

HONJOWASEDA

UENO

KARUIZAWA

Hokuriku ShinkansenPHOTO: W7 SERIES & WEST JAPAN RAILWAY COMPANY

jStyle Vol.14 27

Touring Kanazawa Recommended Tourist Route

Kanazawa retains the atmosphere of a castle town and boasts a collection of topical tourist spots of international interest. Here we describe the recommended tourist route for the major tourist experiences you should try at least once if you come to Kanazawa, including strolling the streets, shopping, and good food. You can get around Kanazawa efficiently in a day. All you need is about five hours.

START

KANAZAWA STATION

When you alight at Kanazawa Station you will be greeted by the Motenashi Dome, completed in 2005 from feature glass. Hop on a bus and head for our first destination, Higashi Chayagai District.

1

HIGASHI CHAYAGAI DISTRICT

One of Kanazawas three chaya districts, with their charming tea houses, the streets are lined with buildings housing vendors of gold leaf and traditional sweets, souvenir shops selling cute Kanazawa ornaments, and classy cafs. Dont miss Shima, the only tea house structure in Japan to be designated a nationally Important Cultural Property. Built in 1820, the tea house has been immaculately preserved in its original form. As it was built to house the general arts of singing, music and dancing, it is unique for the fact that its upper storey guest rooms have no cupboards or dividing walls.

2

SHIMAAddress: 1-13-21 Higashiyama, Kanazawa-shi

3 KENROKUEN GARDENKenrokuen is one of Japans three most famous gardens. It is a chisen kaiyu, strolling pond, style garden typical of the Edo period and has its origins as the clan residence constructed in the outer blocks of Kanazawa Castle by the Kaga clan. Its charm transforms with the seasons, offering different views with the changing seasons. A must see is the Kotoji stone lantern for which the garden is known. After a leisurely stroll around the garden, enjoy a snack at one of the tea shops lining the exit.

Address: 1-4 Kenroku-machi, Kanazawa-shi

28 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Hokuriku

4 KANAZAWA CASTLE PARKThe huge park was created around the restored ruins of Kanazawa Castle, which was the stronghold of the Million Koku of Kaga, dating from when Maeda Toshiie moved into the castle in the Edo period. The symbol of Kanazawa Castle, the famous Ishikawamon Gate, is designated a nationally Important Cultural Property. In spring the park is also very popular as a famous spot for cherry blossom viewing.

Address: 1-1 Marunouchi, Kanazawa-shi

KANAZAWA 21ST CENTURY MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

The concept of the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which is a gallery that has many fans around Japan, was for it to be open to the town and in essence a park-like art gallery. Leandro Erlichs Swimming Pool is one popular spot in which a boundary created by the surface of a pool becomes a natural source of interaction.

Address: 1-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa-shi

5

6 OHMICHO MARKETSFor our final stop we go to the Ohmicho Markets, which are popular with tourists. This is the kitchen of the people of Kanazawa, where shoppers can buy fresh seafood products and Kaga vegetables. Across the 2.8 hectare site there are 170 or so shops, including stores selling fresh food and commercial goods, and food and beverage outlets. Shop and taste test as you are surrounded by in a swirl of energetic cries of Its fresh!, or Its cheap!, and being on the coast of the Japan Sea, do not go past the seafood. Sushi eaten at the markets is unforgettable.

Address: 50 Kami Ohmicho, Kanazawa-shi

The circuit or shuttle bus from Ohmicho

Markets to Kanazawa Station takes about

five minutes. Pop into the souvenir stores at Kanazawa Station to

buy famous local sweets, seafood products, or gold leaf craft items. You can savour the

delights of Kanazawa in just one day.

FINISH

jStyle Vol.14 29

ENJOY THE FLAVOURS AND

CULTURE OF ISHIKAWA IN

TOKYO

The Ishikawa Hyakumangoku Story

and Edo Headquarters, an antenna store showcasing the diversity of Ishikawas

attractions, opened in October 2014 in Ginza in

Tokyo. It is a comprehensive public relations hub in

Japans capital city featuring the history, traditional

culture, tourism and food of Ishikawa Prefecture.

The store has three floors and offers over 1,900 varieties of product, including local sake,

Kaga vegetables and other foodstuffs, Wajimanuri,

and cosmetics incorporating gold leaf. It also has counters

with information about relocating to the region and

tourist information, and eating spaces offering Noto beef steak don on rice, and gold leaf infused coffee.

ISHIKAWA HYAKUMANGOKU STORY AND EDO HEADQUARTERSAddress: TH Ginza

Building, 2-2-18 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

ExperienceThe Traditional Culture of Ishikawa Prefecture

WAJIMANURI LACQUER WARE

Wajimanuri lacquer ware is a traditional craft form produced in Wajima City in Ishikawa Prefecture, and in 1975

was designated a National Traditional Craft Product. Wajimanuri lacquer ware is distinctly characterised by its elegant, yet solid and substantial texture. A thick wooden base is reinforced by being wrapped with fabric soaked in a mixture of kiurushi, or raw lacquer sap, and komenori rice glue, and robustness is achieved by thick application of multiple undercoats of kiurushi and komenori mixed with calcined diatomaceous earth.

GOLD LEAF

Gold leaf is gold that has been pounded to thin and extend it. Around 99 per cent of the gold leaf produced in Japan is made in Kanazawa, where historically it has been used to decorate lacquer ware and in screens and Buddhist altars. At tourist spots in the city it is also possible to consume drinks and soft ice cream or sushi topped with gold leaf.

KAGA YUZEN

Kanazawa has its own unique style of kimono, the Kaga Yuzen. It is characterised by what are known as the five colours of Kaga, which are five sedate colours crimson, indigo, chrome yellow, dark green and royal purple used in detailed depictions of fine patterns incorporating birds, flowers and other natural scenes, as in nihonga, Japans own unique painting style.

30 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Hokuriku

Komatsu

Sapporo

Niseko

KanazawaIshikawa

Sapporo-Komatsu(1 h 35 min) by Air

NaganoNagano-Kanazawa(1 h 6 min) by bullet train

Tokyo

Hakuba

Kanazawa-Tokyo(2 h 28 min)by Bullet train (PhotoW7 series @ WEST JAPAN RAILWAY COMPANY)

Japan's most beautiful Samurai garden

Explore

Tourism ISHIKAWA Official Travel GuideIshikawa tourist information site

Kanazawa Station

Samurai Residence District

Experience traditional arts and crafts

Kenrokuen Garden

hot-ishikawa

Ishikawa, Japan

Probably the most popular ski area in Japan for skiers and snowboarders from other countries is Niseko in Hokkaido. International skiers have also now begun venturing into Nagano and other popular areas in pursuit of additional appealing spots, and Niseko, Nagano and recently areas in Niigata are gaining in popularity. In this feature we will introduce to you some new areas that are attracting a following.

jStyleSpecial

Selection

Its About Time I Went toAwesome Japanese Ski Resorts

Words: Kazuya Baba

Translation: Heather Glass

32 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Tohoku

TOKYOKYOTOOSAKA

HIROSHIMA

Shiga KogenNAGANO

TOHOKU

ISHIKAWA

The Powder BeltHOKKAIDO

AppiZao Onsen

Hakkoda

Believe it or not, there are over 500 ski resorts in Japan!Do you know how many ski resorts there are in Japan? Believe it or not, there are over 500. Each has its own identifying features, incorporating huge resorts where skiers can enjoy powder snow to their hearts content, to ski resorts embracing huge ski parks where skiers can enjoy mogul and extreme forms of ski-ing.There are many ski resorts that have become known to international visitors, starting with Niseko, which is a gathering point for many skiers and snowboarders from around the world, and extending to ski resorts in Nagano Prefecture. Nevertheless, there are still many appealing ski destinations in Japan of which those outside Japan know nothing. In this feature we will focus on spots buried deep in Japan that enjoy popularity with Japanese ski fans, but are as yet unknown to visitors from abroad.Broadly, we will introduce you to three areas. We start with ski resorts in the Tohoku area, which in terms of potential is definitely not outdone by Hokkaido or Nagano-Niigata. We will take a close look at Okushiga Kogen, which is enjoying particular popularity among the ski resorts in the already popular Shiga Kogen in Nagano Prefecture. We will also focus on the powder belt in Hokkaidos central region, which is drawing attention as the spot for powder snow, the likes of which are rarely seen anywhere in the world.

TOHOKU AREA: ZAO ONSEN, APPI KOGEN, HAKKODA

An area on a par with Hokkaido and Nagano-Niigata, if probably having the potential to surpass them, is Tohoku. Tohoku is located at the northernmost point of Japans central island of Honshu, and in winter, is a region of heavy snows. There are many ski resorts in the area, but lets look at the appeal the area offers by focusing on three ski resorts that are actively welcoming international skiers and snowboarders.

NAGANO AREA: SHIGA KOGEN

Known to be a popular area on a par with Hakuba and Nozawa Onsen, Shiga Kogen in Nagano Prefecture boasts Japans largest gelande ski run. There are many ski resorts on the extensive slopes inside Shiga Kogen, but most are connected to each other and skiers can come and go between them. We will take a close look at Okushiga Kogen, which is located the furthest back of several resorts and is particularly popular with skiers.

HOKKAIDO AREA: POWDER BELT

Mention Hokkaido and the strongest association that comes to mind is Niseko, but the area about which there is growing awareness that it is the up and coming spot in Hokkaido to enjoy Japans best powder snow, is the area dubbed the powder belt, located in the centre of Hokkaido. There are several ski resorts there, including Asahidake, Kurodake and Furano, which all boast very satisfying powder snow.

Its About Time I Went toAwesome Japanese Ski Resorts

jStyle Vol.14 33

The northern belt of the main island of the Japan archipelago, between Hokkaido and Tokyo, is called the Tohoku region, and because it sits at a high latitude, it is known as a cold climate area, with cool summers and very cold winters. The area is broadly divided into six prefectures, and its northernmost edge is called Aomori Prefecture, where aomori means blue-green forests, which is just what the region has. To its south and west, starting from the north, there are Akita Prefecture and Yamagata Prefecture, and to the south and east are Iwate Prefecture, Miyagi Prefecture and Fukushima Prefecture. In the exact centre of the Tohoku region there is a long range of mountains running north-south, which is also why the region has a dense tract of ski resorts.

The people of the Tohoku region have a propensity to work together and help each other in life, probably because of the harsh environment in a region of intense cold, and so they give the impression that they are overflowing with more human kindness than the usual.

Japan is known for its abundance of seafood products, but a particular feature of Tohoku is its delicious seafood. It is an area that is filled to overflowing with opportunities to enjoy food; there is ample opportunity to enjoy a wide variety of delicacies, from both sea and mountain.

We will choose a few areas from among those in the Tohoku region and tell you all about the attractions they have to offer.

SNOW MONSTERS IN ONE OF JAPANS TOP HOT SPRINGS

The first popular ski area in Tohoku that comes to mind for Japanese people is probably Zao in Yamagata Prefecture. Outside Japan, many have heard of the scenery in which there are rows of hundreds of frost covered trees, known as snow monsters, and skiing in that magnificent setting is very appealing.

jStyleSpecial

SelectionTohokuBewitching Area of Intense Cold

34 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Tohoku

There are also hot springs boasting bountiful hot water, and in the non-skiing world, Zao is known as a resort.Compared to ski areas in Hokkaido and Nagano-Niigata, awareness of the area outside Japan is still low, but it is 360 kilometres north of Tokyo and for Australians, access is actually easy. Using the new route from Sydney to Haneda, there are direct transfers to flights to Yamagata.

The Zao ski area opened in 1925, making it one of the oldest in Japan. It has 37 ropeway lifts and is also considered top class in Japan for its big gelnde ski run, in which the longest ski distance is ten kilometres. The frost-covered trees symbolic of Zao are so unusual that they are known around the

world as only to be seen in this part of the Tohoku region, and skiing through the rows of ice crystal-covered trees is an experience available nowhere else. There are lots of experiences available nowhere else, including the famous Yo-kokura Wall course, a steep, 38-degree slope that is well worth taking on.

Zao is said to be 1900 years old and has been known historically as a hot springs town. In a nation covered in hot springs, the history of the area is rivalled by few and the area features in mythology and legend. The quality of the hot water and its efficacy are well known, and from ancient times it has been known as the childrens hot springs, where children are taken to ensure healthy growth. The waters also have a disinfectant effect, and are said to be effective in treating skin conditions. The centre of Zao Onsen has three communal baths that are open from 6:00 in the morning to 10:00 at night.

There are at least one hundred plac-es of accommodation in the town and there are restaurants, izakaya pubs and shops, which means after ski time can be gainfully spent. There is also a night bus that runs to the entertainment district in Yamagata City, getting passengers there in 30 or 40 minutes and making it possible to get away from the ski area for evening

Zao is said to be 1900 years

old and has been known

historically as a hot springs town.

jStyle Vol.14 35

meals and activities. Popular activities to which people flock are backlit frost-cov-ered trees and evening snow sled tours among the trees.

Skiing in Japan is all about getting the most joy out of ski areas typical of the country, alleviating tiredness in historical hot springs and partaking of sake and food in hot spring towns.

AOMORI THE PREFECTURE IN DEEPEST NORTHERNMOST HONSHU

Japanese food is the focus of the worlds attention since being designated an international Intangible Cultural Asset by UNESCO, but what many people first think of when they think of Japanese food is probably sushi and sashimi. The sushi culture is well established and the most popular ingredient in sushi and sashimi is the epitome of the cuisine, tuna. Do you have any idea where the most deli-cious tuna is caught? In fact it is off the northernmost part of the Tohoku region, Aomori Prefecture. The prefecture is in a unique position, sandwiched between the Pacific to the east and the Japan Sea to the west, so that where the ocean cur-rents from both converge, a fishing zone is created off Aomori Prefecture which produces possibly the most delicious fish in the world. The tuna caught there at a

place called Ohma, are in both name and reality the best in the world, and at Tsukiji, the worlds largest fish market in Tokyo, Ohma tuna is traded at very high prices and wholesaled to exclusive sushi restaurants.

Hokkaido is known for delicious sea-food, but Tohoku is not to be outdone in the seafood stakes. Hachinohe is a nationally recognisable port in Aomo-ris southeast and the catches of squid and mackerel there are said to be the largest in Japan.

Aomori, with all of it attractions, also has lots of ski areas, one of which, Hakkoda, has been working hard to attract international tourists and has for the last few years grown in popularity as a result. The frost-covered trees of the area are massive and said to be bigger than those of Zao. The dynamic course, which starts from the mountaintop station of the ropeway, maximises the natural topography and is basically an uncom-pacted off-piste. For those skiers wanting to enjoy powder in a natural environment, it is highly recommended. There are not a lot of lifts, but the course length is seven kilometres, and as a ski area that lets skiers ski between trees and enjoy the magnificence of nature to the full, it is revered by many ski fans. Another reason for its popularity is that it is pos-

Aomori farming land is also known as the cradle of art in the paddies.

36 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Tohoku

sible to ski for almost six months, from December to May.

A little off topic, but Aomori also has lots of places to see outside the ski sea-son. The Tohoku region has a lot of rice growing areas and farming is generally prolific, but Aomori farming land is also known as the cradle of art in the paddies. Art in the paddies involves likening a rice paddy to a canvas and planting different coloured rice plants to create massive pictures and characters. The practice is now prevalent across Japan, but it had its origins in 1993 in the village of Inakadate in the Minamitsugaru district of Aomori,

when the village initiated the event in rice paddies behind the village council build-ings as a village invigoration event.

In summer in Aomori there is the fa-mous Nebuta Festival, in which over-sized papier mch nebuta dolls are placed on carriages and pulled in procession. The dolls depict scenes from Japanese kabuki theatre and mythology, and are very popular with international tourists with an interest in Japanese culture. There are many attractions throughout the region outside the ski season, so to spice up your ski trip, make sure you go to a visitor centre and search them out.

FAMILY FRIENDLY HOTEL AND BIG GELNDE

There is in fact another major ski area in Tohoku known to have the biggest gelnde ski run. The Appi Kogen ski area has a reputation for convenience. It comprises a large resort hotel at the base of a ski run and is surrounded by several hotel-style accommodation facilities. The area has 21 courses with a total length of 45.1 kilometres, which alone would make it notable, but it is also highly regarded for the fact that in pursuit of good quality snow, the courses have been laid out on the northern slope of the mountain. The result is premium quality aspirin snow.

Appi resort life has lots to offer besides skiing. There are major facilities associated with the hotel; the ubiquitous big onsen hot springs, and happily, a full range of other facilities including a heated pool, an athletics gym and squash courts. The hotel also houses many restaurants and bars, so there are lots of opportunities for fun after skiing.

Appi Kogen ski area is in Iwate Prefecture, which is adjacent to and south of Aomori Prefecture. As a region of intense dairy production, when the ski

jStyle Vol.14 37

season finishes it begins to show another face. For example, at the Koiwai Farm Makibaen Park, a farm-based tourist facility, there are sheep dog trials and sheep shows, the opportunity to enjoy horse riding, archery and horse-drawn wagon rides, and tours of operating cow sheds and a milking factory. The farm building, which has a silo-shaped observatory, also houses a restaurant and kiosk. Flavours for visitor enjoyment include the famous Mongolian barbecue and fresh milk. There is also no shortage of things to see in the area, with many famous sites steeped in ancient Japanese tradition, including temples such as Chuson-ji Temple, famous for its Konjikido golden hall, and Motsu-ji Temple, known for its beautiful gardens.

Another very interesting food tradition in Iwate Prefecture is wanko soba noodles. First up, a small amount of soba noodles sufficient for a single mouthful is placed in a bowl, owan, which the

guest consumes. The minute the bowl is empty, a server adds another single mouthful. As each mouthful is consumed the server adds another to the bowl, so that unless the guest puts a lid on the bowl or gives some other indication they have had enough, they can just keep on eating soba. As people often have fun

competing to see how many bowls they can eat, wanko soba has a reputation as being something to be eaten in large quantities, but it is a rustic dish that the guest was originally meant to enjoy slowly, savouring the flavour, until replete. You should give it a try.

We turn now to three areas that we have selected from the Tohoku region which are up and coming new ski destinations. All have very good quality snow, are large and will definitely satisfy ski fans from outside Japan. There are many ski areas other than these in the Tohoku region. We look forward to introducing you to those on another occasion.

While we have bundled the ski areas in the Tohoku region into one, each offers significant differences in food, climate and natural features unique to that destination. Take the time to look at aspects of Tohoku other than skiing. You will undoubtedly find a fascinating depth to the region.

38 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Tohoku

Located in the Tohoku region of Japan between Tokyo and Hokkaidos famous Niseko ski area lies the magnificent Zao Onsen ski resort. At just 360 kilometres north of Tokyo, those arriving at Haneda Airport from Sydney can take a Yamagata bound shinkansen (bullet train) to the local Yamagata station making access extremely convenient.

JAPANS LEADING LARGE SCALE SKI RESORT

With a rich history dating back to 1925, Zao Onsen boasts 26 runs the longest at over 10 kilometres in length - accessed by 37 lifts and ropeways to firmly place it at the pinnacle of ski resorts in Japan.

SKI AMONGST THE ICE MONSTERS

Zao Onsen is the only place in Japan and the world where you can enjoy skiing through the Juhyo, or Ice Monsters, the frost covered trees that are unique to the area. The best time to enjoy the beauty of the Ice Monsters is from the end of December until the start of March.

ENJOY GREAT NIGHT LIFE IN TOWN AFTER A DAY ON THE SLOPES

The hot spring resort area, with a long history from 1900 onwards, currently offers over 100 accommodation options complemented by a variety of restaurants and pubs. For those wanting even more excitement, Yamagata city is easily accessible via a 40 minute bus ride with a return late night service also planned. Other evening activities include night skiing and enjoying the illuminated Ice Monsters by snowcat.

TOHOKUS EASILY ACCESSIBLE SKI HEAVEN

ZaoThe resort of snow, superb hot springs and magnificent moutains

ACCESS INFORMATION

From Narita or Haneda Airport, head to Tokyo

station and transfer to the Yamagata bullet train for the

2 hour 40 minute journey to Yamagata station. After alighting, board the Zao

Onsen bus for the short 40 minute ride to the resort.Japan Airlines (JAL) also

flies from Haneda Airport to the local Yamagata

Airport in approximately 50 minutes. A local shared van service can be reserved for the 1 hour transfer to

the resort.

http://www.zao-spa.or.jp/english/index.html

Sapporo

Morioka

Shinjo

Yamagata

Nagano

Karuizawa

ShinYatsushiro

Kagoshima

Niigata

Akita

TOKYO

NagoyaYokohama

Kyoto

NaraOsaka

KobeHiroshima

MatsuyamaAirport

Fukuoka(Fukuoka)

Airport

Hakata

Narita International Airport

Hiroshima Airport Itami Airport

Haneda Airport

Chubu Airport

Kansai International Airport

Nanki-Shirahama AirportKyushu Shinkansen Line

KochiBeppu

Takayama

Niseko

Hakodate

Izumo

Nagasaki

TakamatsuTokushima

Sendai

Naha

Naha Airport

KagoshimaAirport

Aomori

Kumamoto

ZAO

jStyle Vol.14 39

jStyleSpecial

SelectionShiga Kogenin NaganoThe Joys of a Huge, Popular Resort Little-known Outside Japan

40 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Shiga Kogen

In this skiing feature we have sought to introduce spots that are not well known to ski fans outside Japan, but that have lots of potential and that we tip will grow in popularity. Shiga Kogen is an internation-ally recognised ski destination, so would not seem to actually fit our brief, but with 19 ski areas boasting 52 gondola lifts, it is the largest in Japan. It is so big it is said it would take a week to ski all its courses, which means it has no shortage of spots little known outside Japan.

The first ski area we would like to tell you about is Yokoteyama-Shibutoge. At its highest point the area is 2,305 metres above sea level, it boasts the best qual-ity snow in Japan, and is famous as the countrys most elevated ski area equipped with a normal lift. The negative is that ac-cess is only by car or bus, as the area is quite independent from and unconnected to any other, so that even among people familiar with Shiga Kogen, many do not know about it. But it is just a short shuttle

bus ride, so it is well worth giving it a try.The ski area we really want to tell you

about is Okushiga Kogen. It is linked to other areas so is absolutely easy to get to, but as it is located right at the very back of the extensive Shiga Kogen area very few take the trouble to go there. But Okushiga Kogen offers an unspoiled natural envi-ronment exceeding any other area, and is counted among Japans best powder snow areas. Snow-bearing winds from the Japan Sea drop their moisture as they pass over the mountains, bringing super-lative powder snow. The ski courses are varied, with side country and tree courses to enjoy, and if you want to head deep into back country, it is possible to hire guides who are well versed in the area.

7149 HIRAO, YAMANOUCHI-MACHI, SHIMOTAKAI-GUN, NAGANO, 381-0401 JAPANTel:81-269-34-2704 e-mail:info@villa101.biz URL:http://www.villa101.biz

We locate at center of Ichinose Village, and Ichinose Tanne-No-Mori ski area is just behind us. We have Chinese & Japanese restaurant and convenience shop

Yamazaki Shop.There is fire place and sofa at our lobby. Free Wi-Fi access.Japanese tatami room, spa shared public bathroom.

Hotel Villa Ichinose, Shigakogen

7966VILL

1-3 minutes

walk to

Ski / Snowb

oard Area

jStyle Vol.14 41

The Sugiyama Ski & Snowsports School in Okushiga Kogen has many instructors fluent in other languages, and lessons are very high quality. The school is a distinguished institution with several nationally accredited instructors from Austria in Europe, the home of skiing. One reason why excellent personnel are attracted to the school is the presence of the schools representative, Susumu Sugi-yama. He is a former Japanese alpen ski Olympian and is a legend in Japan. His son, the principal, Kiminobu Sugiyama, is also a highly reputable instructor, nation-ally accredited in Austria. The Sugiyama Ski & Snowsports School has developed its own method of instruction, based on

the world-leading skiing method devel-oped in Austria, the cradle of alpen skiing. If you are keen to learn ski techniques, go knock on their door.

If you are going to concentrate your stay in the extensive Shiga Kogen area on Okushiga Kogen, the ideal place to stay is the Okushiga Kogen Hotel, which is directly connected to the ski area and has a lift station right in front of the lounge. It is a warm, classic hotel, featuring a design of wood-grain walls and with a popular bar with a very big fireplace. The staff are internationally diverse and friendly. The entire hotel is Wi-Fi enabled, and the restaurant serves not only Japanese food, but a variety of other cuisines, including French. There is after-ski fun in the izakaya Japanese pub at night. In Japanese spring, a terrace caf in the style of a yurt is to open on the top of Okushiga Mountain.

Good powder snow is available at Okushiga Kogen from December to early March, but snow remains for a long time, so skiing is possible into May and spring. You could avoid the busiest part of the ski season to focus on touring in other

In winter the popular Snow

Monkey area is just a 30-minute shuttle

bus ride away.

42 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Shiga Kogen

areas and still build skiing into your travel itinerary. Outside the ski season, summer on the plateau is very comfortable, with a variety of activities available, including golf, tennis, cycling and fishing. From September to October the mountains turn red and gold with autumn leaves, and in every direction from your hotel window there is beautiful scenery. We urge you to take yourself to Okushiga, a spot in Shiga Kogen attracting particular attention.

Shiga Kogen is also close to the hot springs area of Shibu Onsen, with its cobbled streets and buildings from the late 19th to early 20th centuries that cre-ate a richly imbued Meiji and Taisho era atmosphere, and to Yudanaka Onsen. In winter the popular snow monkey area is just a 30-minute shuttle bus ride away. A further attraction of the area is the ability to taste in one go all aspects of Japans culture of alcoholic beverages.

There are four wineries, all of which accept tours. There are also eight sake breweries, and it is possible to tour the local brewery that produces Japans top-selling boutique beer.

More and more people are visiting Shiga Kogen each year, but next time you go, we encourage you to venture into the areas we have talked about here. We trust this information will add substance to your ski life.

Okushiga Kogen ResortsHotel & Ski Resortswww.okushiga-kogen.com

Shiga International Ski School

Sugiyama Ski and Snowsports SchoolInternational Divisionwww.sugiyama-ski.com

8209OKUS

Best powder ski resort in the largest ski-area in Japan

jStyle Vol.14 43

Hokkaido Powder Belt

MagicalPlaces

Words: Chuck Olbery (Hokkaido Powder Guides)

44 jStyle Vol.14

TRAVEL Powder Belt

Skiing has always dictated my life. Personal decisions have never been made without first researching the mountains and consulting how good the turns were going to be. The first time I came to Japan was on an

English teaching program where I was given three choices as to my placement. There were rumours that you were lucky to get any of your choices. A friend from a small town in New Zealand chose Tokyo, only to be posted to the smallest fishing village in Japan. My choices were made based on the merit of the skiing and luckily found myself in the mountainous region of northern Honshu.

But it wasnt my first choice. That was actually Hokkaido. My interest in the northern island was piqued back at university and video nights with fellow members of the ski club, watching snowboarding videos of pro American snowboarders in Niseko. These guys were some of the first foreign professionals to Hokkaido to ride some of the mystical powder that the island is now famous for.

Fast forward several years and at the time

living in Tokyo. Two northern hemisphere winters had come and gone and the only snow I had seen was a brief flurry. I was a fish out of water. I had a goal of starting a ski guiding business on the northern island, and persuaded my wife that a life living the dream was better than anything we had found in Tokyo. In October of 2003, bags were packed into a small van, ferry boarded, and after a night sailing over the Sea of Japan, we were driving to the Central Hokkaido town of Furano.

At the time, there wasnt a lot of information on the web about Central Hokkaido or Furano, at least not in English. It was better known as a summer destination and for the numerous lavender farms which are dotted around the valley. But the pieces of information regarding the mountains and skiing seemed compelling. The Daisetsuzan National Park and its volcanoes loom large over the landscape, 2,000 meter peaks with both alpine and tree skiing, lodges with thermal hot springs nestled within, and a deep, deep snowpack. It ticked all the boxes for what you would want from a ski trip in Japan, and a guiding business.

PH

OTO

: TA

KA

HIR

O N

AK

AN

ISH

I

PH

OTO

S: M

AS

AA

KI K

ATO

jStyle Vol.14 45

The town of Furano is serviced by the local airport of Asahikawa. For anyone who flies here, the descent into Asahikawa gives a great birds eye view of the mountains. On one side there is the Daisetsuzan Range which stretches 60 kilometres from north to south and 30 kilometres east to west. On the other side of the valley are the smaller mountains and the resorts of Kamui Ski Links, Furano and also Tomamu.Furano is the centre of it all. A plaque embeded on a rock in the centre of the town states it is actually the 'geographic center of Hokkaido.'

My first season here was an exploratory one to assess the areas potential for good skiing. On backcountry days at the southern end of the

national park, I was joined by a fellow Australian whose job was to clear the roads into the hot spring lodges. A big undertaking, but not his particular task. He would sit in an idling vehicle with a heater on full blast at the bottom of the hill, book in one hand and a cell phone in the other, ready to warn the snow clearers of an approaching vehicle. Once the roads were cleared, he would set off after my ski track and we would spend the re