Jib Plans2

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/jib-plans2 1/10

JIB-ARM REMOTE HEAD

PLANS

by Cody Deegan

These plans are for the remote head I built for my Canon XL1 miniDVcamera. I donʼt recommend using cameras heavier than 9 pounds with this

particular design without strength modications. These plans are in no

way complete, for example: I donʼt show in detail how to mount the elec-

tronics or how to build a mount for a camera - I leave those details up to

the builder (these plans are free and I got tired, what do you expect?).

Be sure to use the Surface Frequency of 75 mhz on your transmitters, re-ceivers, and crystals. Use of Aircraft Frequency (72 mhz) is an FCC vio-

lation and also poses a serious safety hazard if used within a few miles of

others who are using the frequency for aircraft.

Anyway, I hope the information contained within is helpful. If you have

better construction methods than what is explained herein, then by all

means, use them. Get some ideas from these plans and build a better one.If youʼre new to building things, just follow right along and I think youʼll

be happy with the result (I really like mine). Go get all your cinematic

visions realized and make sure to wear those safety goggles. Good luck

building.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


Here is a list of items that I used to build the remote head on my jib-arm:

ELECTRONICS

(2) HS-605BB Servo Motors (Hitec)(2) Standard Servo 4:1 Power Gearboxes (Hitec)

(1) Laser 4 transmitter (channel 40) 75 mhz

(1) Hitec Supreme Receiver 75 mhz

(1) FM Dual Conversion Rx Crystal (channel 40) 75 mhz

(2) 192T 1/4” bore 48 pitch aluminum gears

(1) 6-volt DC power source

small lengths of 14-16 guage wire

SUPPLIERS:

http://www.servocity.com

http://www.wmberg.com/ P48A63-192 Precision Spur Gears

HARDWARE

(1) 1/8” x 1-1/4” x 27” aluminum square tube

(2) 1/8” x 3-1/2” x 5-1/2” at aluminum pieces

(3) 1-1/4” x 8” steel corner brackets(3) 5/16-18 x 3” full-thread grade 8 hex bolts

(7) 5/16-18 x 2” hex bolts

(12) 5/16” hex nuts

(2) 5/16” stop nuts

(14) 5/16” washers

(5) 5/16” fender washers

(2) 1-1/4” x 8” steel corner brackets

(15) skateboard bearings (ABEC 3)

(4) 10-24 x 1-3/4” machine screws

(4) 10-24 hex nuts

(4) 10-24 washers

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


17/64” Drill Bit

Cut the aluminum square

tube into a 14” piece and a

12 1/2” piece. Measure up

from the bottom as shown

on both pieces and mark a

hole placement with a cen-terpunch.

Drill the holes all the way

through with a 27/64” drill

bit, then use a 55/64” bit

individually through eachhole to widen them slightly.

14” square tube

Set the 14” square tube ush against

a steel corner bracket. The brackets I

found had holes predrilled, so I used a

pencil to trace these holes onto the square

tube.

Centerpunch the 3 placements on the

square tube and drill all the way through

with a 5/16” drill bit.

Next, measure in 2 1/2” from the end of

the steel bracket and mark a hole place-

ment in the center. Drill a 17/64” hole,

then thread the hole with a 5/16-18 tap.

pan bracket

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


12-1/2” square tube

cable bracket

Cut a corner off each at

aluminum piece using

the measurements shown.

Mark and centerpunch threehole placements on one

piece, clamp it on top of the

other to the drill press table,

then drill through all three

placements with a 5/16”

drill bit.

Lay a steel corner bracket on the underside of the 12 1/2” aluminum square

tube. Trace two of the predrilled holes onto the tube with a pencil.

Center two hole place-

ments on the side of the

square tube at the respec-

tive distances from the

edge. These holes will

line up with two holes

on the at aluminumpieces. Centerpunch all

four placements and drill

completely through with a

5/16” drill bit.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


If the hubs on the 192 tooth spur gears

have set screws, remove the screws.

The bore on the gears should be 1/4”.

Use a 5/16-18 tap to thread the bore

holes in both gears. Be careful not to

thread the hole at a slant.

Insert a 5/16-18 x 3” full-thread bolt down through each gear (if you canʼt

nd full-thread grade 8 bolts, you can use a 5/16-18 die and stock to cut

threads all the way down a half-thread bolt using a vice).

Die Stock

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


Set the gear bolts through a

fender washer and a bearing,

then thread two hex nuts onto

the bolt until they are pressed

against the bearing, but not

tightly. Then insert the assem-blies through the 55/64” holes

in the square tubes. A rubber

mallet might be useful at this

point to get the bearing set

snug. Slide another bearing

over the bolt end and set it into

the other side of the tube, againusing the mallet.

Time to assemble the power

gear boxes for the servo mo-

tors. I ordered mine from

ServoCity, and they came

with detailed instructions onhow to put them together.

Once removed, there might be a

hole left in the metal. Maybe trylling this in with some solder and

ling smooth. This way the circuit

is never broken as the shaft turns. I

have not tested to see if this proce-

dure works, my original design was

done much differently, but due to

FCC violations, I had to change it.

Before assembly, the potentiometer needs to be disman-

tled. There is a small piece of metal inside the pot that

should be led off. The metal extension acts as a stop and

does not allow the motor to run continuously.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


Set the gear boxes in place on the

square tubes so that the smaller

gears mesh with the larger gears.

Use a pencil to mark hole place-

ments on the tubes using the gear

box mounts as a guide.

Centerpunch and drill the holes

all the way through the square

tube with a 3/16” drill bit. The

guide holes on the gear box may

also need to be widened to 3/16”.

Mount the gear boxes to the tubes

with 10-24 x 1 3/4” machine screws,

a washer and a nut on each screw.

Hereʼs a wiring diagram of the

electronics. The receiver has

alot of slots to plug the speed

controls into. Try out each one

and test the response with thetransmitter controls until you

nd a setup you like.

There are a wide variety

of 6-volt battery setups to

choose from - NiCad, NiMH,

rechargeable sealed lead-acid, as well as lantern. I

suggest perusing the internet

for more information on de-

ciding what battery will best

suit your needs.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


tilt bracket

This isnʼt a very precise method,

but I believe it will help alleviate

some stress on the servos:

Set your camera on its side and

roughly estimate where the bal-ance point is. Measure from this

point to the bottom of the camera

and name the value “x”.

Take that value and add

3/16” to it. Measure from

the inside angle of a steelcorner bracket with the

new value and mark a hole

placement. If the place-

ment happens to fall on

one of the predrilled holes,

then move it somewhere

nearby (I said this wasnʼtvery precise, didnʼt I?).

Centerpunch and drill with

a 17/64” bit, then thread

the hole with a 5/16-18

tap.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


(5) 5/16-18 x 2” hex bolts

(10) 5/16” washers(8) 5/16” hex nuts

(5) 5/16” fender washers

(2) 5/16” stop nuts

tilt bracket

pan bracket

cable bracket

Time to assemble the head. Donʼt

over-tighten the nuts that rest against

the bearings - their purpose is to keep

the bearings from falling out.

Attach the aluminum ats to

the upper square tube with two

5/16-18 x 2” hex bolts, four

5/16” washers, and two 5/16”

hex nuts.

8/4/2019 Jib Plans2


To give an idea on mounting the

electronics, I wrapped a thin piece

of aluminum around the battery and

bolted it to the upper tube, and I at-

tached a small corner bracket to the

tube for the receiver to set in.

The assembled remote head.

Jib Plans2

Documents

Transcript of Jib Plans2