Instructables.com - Teardrop Travel Trailer

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Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

Teardrop Travel Trailerby Rob O on December 10, 2010

Table of Contents

Teardrop Travel Trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Teardrop Travel Trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 1: Buying the utility trailer - piecing it together. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2: Building the subfloor - preparing plywood floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 3: Preparing the plywood subfloor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 4: Planning ahead for cargo compartment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 5: Stick this to that . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 6: More about the floor: tar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 7: More about the floor: insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 8: Spray Painting the Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 9: Attaching floor to frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Step 10: Dealing w Harbor Freight Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Step 11: Dealing w Harbor Freight Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 12: Envision your Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 13: Add the tongue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Step 14: Adding jack stands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Step 15: Working on Profile, Walls I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 16: Working on Profile, Walls II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Step 17: Cut the door. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Step 18: Cut & Lay out the spars, attach spars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Step 19: Quirky Profile - The discussion and the solution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Step 20: Insulate the walls - Discuss the LIP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Step 21: Finish the Sandwich: the inside surface of the walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Step 22: Paint the floor. Attach the walls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Step 23: Overhead Cabinet, Velvet, Outlets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Step 24: LED lights I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Step 25: Starting Main & Galley Cabinetry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Step 26: Electric Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Step 27: Main Cabinet, LED II, Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Step 28: Tripled Spar for Hurricane Hinge; Battery Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Step 29: Porch Lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Step 30: Install Headliner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Step 31: Insulate the roof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-food/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-living/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-outside/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-play/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-workshop/

http://www.instructables.com/member/Rob O/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=title


Step 32: Blocking for Light, Vent; Notes on VENT FAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

Step 33: Finishing Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Step 34: Book Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Step 35: Attach exterior layer of roof. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

Step 36: Attach roof side of hurricane hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Step 37: Hatch Part 1 - Hurricane Hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Step 38: Hatch Part 2 - Build the Hatch Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Step 39: Hatch Part 3 - Skin the Hatch; Lights and Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Step 40: Hatch Part 4 - CPES, spray paint & hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Step 41: Hatch Part 5 - attach hatch side of hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Step 42: Wire the brake, marker, turn lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

Step 43: Epoxy everything! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83

Step 44: Build the Doors - Part 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83



Step 47: PAINT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

Step 48: Build the doors - Part 4: the return of the windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

Step 49: Vent Fan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

Step 50: Road worthy - more or less!! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

Step 51: Trimming out the hatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

Step 52: Bedding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

Step 53: Fenders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Step 54: Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Step 55: Bookshelves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Step 56: Diamond plate gravel shield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108


Intro: Teardrop Travel TrailerFair warning! This is going to be a biggie Instructable. Fair warning! I suggest you read the WHOLE THING before you start building. You may also want to obtainsome more detailed plans that include more detailed drawings and dimensions.

Over the past year I've built a 'teardrop travel trailer.' It's been an adventure for sure. It's very much been worth it. I aim to introduce you to the idea of a teardrop trailerand the steps involved in building one. You WILL need more info to complete a build. I strongly recommend the forum below.

I stumbled across this idea because my wife and I were thinking about buying an old airstream trailer to fix up. Then I stumbled across this web forum:http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/It turns out that these teardrop (named for their shape) travel trailers were once very common. Especially after WWII in the states. Often built of materials at hand andranged from minimal to elaborate. Check out this link here: http://www.mikenchell.com/VintagePlans/vintageplans.html.

Well I was hooked. I considered various designs and what I wanted in a trailer. You can track down a TON of resources through that forum above, as well as manygracious and helpful and wonderful people. There are a variety of FREE plans and a few at modest cost. Note: be wary buying plans on Ebay. Evidently, there is afellow who pops up selling the free plans available from the above forum.

I decided to build a 'Cubbie' type trailer, based on plans from a company called Kuffle Creek. http://www.kuffelcreek.com/ But with LOTS of modifications. You mustunderstand that no two trailers are remotely alike! One reason I picked these Cubbie plans is that there was NO WELDING. Certainly there are designs where you canweld your own trailer to spec, but mine started out with a bolt-together utility trailer from Harbor Freight. So without further ado....

P.S. At the time of initial publication (July 2011) I've got the trailer roadworthy, but it's by no means finished. As I complete further finish work I'd further steps. Pleasefeel free to ask Qs in the comments and I'll respond as best I can.

Image Notes1. This is the only licensing required in Kansas for trailers under 2000 lbs.


Image Notes1. Hurricane hinge.

Step 1: Buying the utility trailer - piecing it together.Per the plans I was using I bought a 4x8 utility trailer from Harbor Freight. It has a weight capacity of 1800 lbs. Which should be plenty for my trailer. In fact I took outthe smallest leaf spring plates bc of the light weight. (Step 11) You can buy essentially identical trailers from other sources, or even fab your own.

I spread out a big piece of cardboard on my garage floor and fitted the thing together. This particular trailer is designed to fold in half. The plans call to modify it so it hasa solid body. This involves making an additional spar of wood to put in the middle (I painted it black).

Another mod is to build out the axle ABOVE the leaf springs instead of below it, as the factory plans call. This allows your tailer to ride lower. But to do this, you have tocut a notch in the axle brackets. Hence the angle grinder.


Image Notes1. right out of the box

Image Notes1. laying out the pieces2. this is the axle

Image Notes1. this is the extra spar i made from a 2x42. axle

Image Notes1. these are the brackets that hold the leaf springs/axle. the trailer typically slingsthe axle UNDER the leaf springs. the cubbie plans sling the axle OVER the leafsprings. so you have to cut a notch.


Image Notes1. all assembled. i later moved this bracket farther back.2. i removed this sticker w WD-40 and a razor blade

Step 2: Building the subfloor - preparing plywood floor

I bought some 2x2s to build a subfloor that rests on the trailer. The purpose here isnt really structural, but more to create frame that a floor can be built on and give yousomething strong to bolt to the frame. I used a piece of 2x6 at the back because I knew I'd be adding supports there.

I also added a piece between the front two spars to hold the spare tire. I used a piece of oak for this, leftover from a pallet I tore apart. It's hard as nails. I also addedsome blocking that will frame out the hatch.

You will also need to pre-drill holes so you can bolt the deck to the frame. There are existing holes in the metal trailer. Line up the frame, mark the holes and pre-drillnow.

Image Notes1. the tail end of the trailer.

Image Notes1. you can kind of see the shallow holes i drilled to accommodate the bolt heads


Image Notes1. i used a 2x6 here at the tail end because I knew I'd be installing jack standslater (Step 14)

Image Notes1. blocking for the hatch2. testing the spacing for the spare tire bracket

Image Notes1. long bolts will fit through these holes to hang tire from2. this is a piece of oak I got from a cargo pallet. it is hard as iron.3. holes to mate with trailer frame4. hard to see, but there is a hole here to mate deck with trailer5. holes to mate with trailer frame

Image Notes1. this pic is from later in the process, but it shows the overall layout. constructionadhesive ready for plywood sheet

Step 3: Preparing the plywood subfloorAt this stage, I'm working on the 4x8 ply sheet that will be the actual floor. Note, the trailer itself is 4x8. To accomodate the walls that I will build, my subfloor and floor areactually 47" wide - I cut off a 1" strip from the ply.

I used the space I framed out to trace the size of the hatch door (see Step 4). I added 1/2 inch all around to get the total size. I used the circ saw to cut out the hatchdoor. I temporarily screwed a slat of wood to the hatch to hold the piece while I made the last cuts. So it wouldnt tear out.


Image Notes1. sheet is 48" wide. I need it to be 47'.

Image Notes1. i was using the 2x3 as a fence for my circ saw. but the arms of my clamp weretoo short, so i had to add all this extra bracing. the nice thing was the clamp alsowound up catching the strip so it wouldnt tear out at the end of the cut

Image Notes1. FIRST made two cuts along opposite sides, then screwed slat in the middle2. screws through slat into hatch lid

Image Notes1. when i made second two cuts, the piece was supported and didn't tear away.


Image Notes1. checking the fit

Step 4: Planning ahead for cargo compartmentThese trailers are small, even tiny. So any addtional cargo area helps. A frequent addition is a cargo compartment nestled under the floor, between the crosspeices onthe trailer.

To accomodate this, I added a metal strap under the second crosspiece. This required drilling holes into the strap as well as the underside of the metal crosspiece.

Side note: I had never drilled in metal much prior to this. I was talking to an old guy at ACE Hardware and suggested using plain new motor oil, instead of any fancycutting fluid, to lube and cool the bit. As I was drilling so few and so small holes. Kudos to ACE.

The other side of the compartment was the wooden crosspiece I made, so I just used some angle brackets (from the deck supply section at hardware store).

The actual material to make the bottom of the compartment is just 1/2" ply, I painted it several times with exterior latex to try to protect from moisture. I also sheathed theunderside with aluminum flashing.

To install I laid a bead of exterior caulk along that metal strap and around edge where the board met up with the frame. (I had dryfit before I did this step!!) Then drilledthrough strap and backets to make it all hold fast. Extra caulk where necessary to keep water out.

I also cut a correspnding hole in the 1/2 ply floor for access to the compartment.

Image Notes1. the cargo compartment will fit in this space here

Image Notes1. Motor Oil. I was at ACE hardware looking for cutting fluid. I told the guy what Iwas doing and he said to save a few bucks, just use motor oil. worked well.


Image Notes1. pilot holes pre-drilled

Image Notes1. angle brackets from the deck department at box hardware store

Image Notes1. trailer is upside down in this picture. brackets to hold bottom of cargocompartment

Image Notes1. trailer upside down in this picture

Image Notes1. sheet of plywood installed. caulk around the edges. i had painted the frameblack in the meantime.

Image Notes1. angle on underside of panel, supporting the weight2. lots of caulk to seal it from the road


Step 5: Stick this to thatOnce the subfloor frame is complete and the ply floor is complete, you can glue and screw the thing together. I used construction adhesive and decking screws here. Icountersunk everything. I used a chalk line to plot out where I needed to place my screws.

After I was all glued and screwed, I used bondo to fill in over the screwheads. Then sanded it all smoove. Once smoove I primed it a couple of times and then painted itgreen with floor/porch paint.

Image Notes1. this pic is from later in the process, but it shows the overall layout. constructionadhesive ready for plywood sheet

Image Notes1. holes to mate with trailer frame2. holes to mate with trailer frame3. holes to mate with trailer frame4. holes to mate with trailer frame

Image Notes1. holes to mate with trailer frame2. holes to mate with trailer frame

Image Notes1. holes to mate with trailer frame2. Clear case of overkill here. this is the tail end of the trailer, drilling into that2x6.3. carefully drilling into the 1x1 frame


Image Notes1. bondo magic

Image Notes1. I drilled a rediculous number of screws into the spare tire bracket because Iknew it would carry a lot of weight.

Image Notes1. holes to mate with trailer frame

Image Notes1. driled at angle to catch the 1x1 blocking.2. this lip will accept and support that hatch lid I cut out earlier.

Image Notes1. bondo magic


Image Notes1. this is a close-up of one of those holes where I will bolt deck to trailer. it'scountersunk so the bolt head doesnt stick up past surface of deck.

Step 6: More about the floor: tar

Image Notes1. BEFORE

Image Notes1. it's so sticky that light can't escape. like a black hole!

Image Notes


1. holes to mate with trailer frame2. holes to mate with trailer frame3. AFTER4. I later came back and coated this outside edge too.

Image Notes1. i later came back and coated this outside edge too

Step 7: More about the floor: insulationOnce the tar has congealed after a day or two, then its time to insulate. Why insulate? Depending on your climate, you can have serious condensation issues on theinside of your trailer. It's also more comfortable. Check out that forum for further discussion.

I used 3/4 solid pink foam insulation. I cut to fit. there is a plastic membrane that peels off, I made sure to remove that membrane. I made the pieces as snug as possible.Then used construction adhesive, screws and fender washers to attach.

The tar was still slightly tacky, and my pieces were pretty snug fits. I kind of wedged them in there and they stuck to the tar.

Image Notes1. cutting pieces to approximate size2. i wrote my calcs right on the piece

Image Notes1. screws with fender washers


Image Notes1. i used a straightedge and utility knife to cut the pieces. it doesnt need to besuper exact.

Image Notes1. i didnt have a sureform, but a wire brush worked well to help me shave downthe peices. it makes a friggen mess tho.

Image Notes1. it was hard to get the material to compress with the larger fender washers. iwound up mostly using a smaller size.

Step 8: Spray Painting the FrameI did kind of a crummy job here. A lot of folks leave their trailer red. I wanted to make mine black. I used black spray paint and it took several coats to cover the red...

You DON'T have to paint the frame. The red powder coating is certainly sufficient. If you cut or drill, you certainly want to cover the bare metal.

Once the trailer is finished I'll go back with another can of spray paint and touch up the visible parts.


Image Notes1. the stock utility trailer uses pins here. i used bolts.

Step 9: Attaching floor to frame

In my case I primed the floor, screwed it all together, and bolted it to the frame. One side note - there will be a gap between the metal crosspeices of the frame and thewooden subfloor. I used paint stir-sticks and construction adhesive to fill in that gap.

I countersunk holes in the top of the floor where carriage bolts pass through the floor to match up with the existing holes in the trailer.

Then I went back and bondo-ed the holes to get a smooth floor. Once that was done I used floor paint to paint the floor green. Some folks use linoleum, plastic tiles,etc. You can use pretty much whatever you want, being mindful of the weight.


Image Notes1. carriage bolts mating deck to frame2. a particularly nasty mix of construction adhesive and tar!3. carriage bolts mating deck to frame4. carriage bolts mating deck to frame5. carriage bolts mating deck to frame6. bolts for jack stands7. retractable jack stands from RV store

Step 10: Dealing w Harbor Freight HubNow the axles on this particular trailer need some special attention. Don't be scared. Once you figger it out it'll be no problem.

The axle is shipped with some cosmoline type gunk in the hubs. It's NOT grease. You have to clean it out and pack the hub with grease before you actually get on theroad. I don't have too many pics of this bc it is messy business.

You will need some particular tools to do this right. First of all, you will need new seals. These can be a pain to get ahold of. You can order them from HF. You can alsotypically find them at a decent auto parts store. You will need this size seal: 30-52-10. I finally got mine from Red Trailer (part #SJ8510-18B). Order extra! These turnedout to be a LOT beefier and well-built than the HF versions.

You'll need some type of solvent to clean off the cosmoline crud from bearings and the inside of the hubs. I don't recommend using one of your wife's holiday candy tinsas a wash basin - she'll get majorly pissed at you.

Now put it back together. I watched some vids online on repacking bearings before I did this. I bought a small size grease gun and bearing packer from Harbor Freightand that seemed to make things much easier. No pics from those steps - my hands were dirty!

Image Notes1. crappy flimsy seals that came with hub. i destroyed them when i removed them

Image Notes1. grease nipple


Image Notes1. the bearings

Image Notes1. new vastly better seals from Red Trailer. buy extras!!

Step 11: Dealing w Harbor Freight AxleI knew the specs on this trailer were for a max capacity of 1800 lbs or so. I guessed my finished trailer would be about half that. So I decided to take a leaf out of the leafsprings to relax the ride. This turned out to be surprisingly easy with vise grips and a crescent wrench. There is just one bolt holding it all together.

One mod for this plan, from the factory plans to hang the axle ABOVE the leaf springs instead of below. I discovered when I did that the axle didnt want to mate upcleanly with the bracket on the axle. So took the leaf springs apart AGAIN, flipped the little bolt over and it worked fine. It turns out one end of the little bolt is designed tomate up with a hole in the bracket on the axle.

Tightened it all down and we are good to go. Added the hubs and bolted on the wheels.


Image Notes1. first attempt to dry-fit the axle. its hard to tell, but its 'tipping' off the nubbin. thestock design is to hang the axle on the _underside_ of the leaf spring.

Image Notes1. there is the problem. the bolt is protruding too much for the axle to seatproperly2. i wrapped plastic bag and tape to protect threads on axle

Image Notes1. this little bracket lines up with the bolt, but it is shallow.

Image Notes1. here is the nubbin that matches that shallow bracket on the axle.

Image Notes1. bolt sticks out even farther now, but on underside of spring


Image Notes1. vice grips and pliers and the nut came right off.

Image Notes1. flipping bolt around so nubbin is on topside instead of the bottom2. smallest leaf spring removed

Image Notes1. in place with nubbin now on top2. piss poor paint job!!

Image Notes1. now lining up well


Image Notes1. axle fits perfectly now. attaching hardware

Image Notes1. underside of axle, bolt protruding

Image Notes1. hub attached. no pics bc hands were greasy. google and watch videos on howto assemble a trailer hub.

Image Notes1. tires on!

Step 12: Envision your ProfileI modded the profile that was in the plans I bought from Kuffel Creek.. Which is not uncommon. I wanted a more classic teardrop type shape. I mocked up the profile ona piece of cardboard (you could use anything handy) to see what it would look like.

original plans call for a profile that is exactly 8 feet long - so you can use a 8 foot sheet of plywood. my mod added nine inches to that. so I had to 'stretch' the plywood. idid this by adding to the tail end. you'll see in step 19.


Image Notes1. this bulge adds about 9 inches to length of profile

Step 13: Add the tongueNext add on the tongue. I new my design would not be anywhere close to the max capacity of the trailer (1800 lbs or so). So I just used the stock tongue setup.

There are ways to beef up the tongue if you think you might need to. You can also add crosspeices to the tongue to carry additional cargo or cargo boxes.

Consider your options. Just make sure your tongue is strong enough.

You can also add the tongue jack now too. I got mine at Harbor Freight. Now it'll be a lot easier to move this sucker around.

Image Notes1. the stock utility trailer uses pins here. i used bolts.

Step 14: Adding jack standsThese stands come in a variety of shapes and sizes. I liked these because they are attached to the trailer. You just have to remember to retract them before you driveoff.

I got conflicting advice whether to have them extend to the side or straight back. I choose to go to the side so they would be more out of the way. We'll see how thatworks in real life.


Image Notes1. carriage bolts mating deck to frame2. a particularly nasty mix of construction adhesive and tar!3. carriage bolts mating deck to frame4. carriage bolts mating deck to frame5. carriage bolts mating deck to frame6. bolts for jack stands7. retractable jack stands from RV store

Step 15: Working on Profile, Walls INow we can set aside the trailer for a while now and focus on the walls. I sandwiched two 1/2inch plywood sheets together and screwed in several places. Now any cutsI make are identical (more or less) on each piece of ply. I wanted to make sure I had IDENTICAL walls to work from.

I used a square and tape measure to plot out the points of my front curve. I designed the curve myself. I did it in google sketchup to find something pleasing. Then id'the points I could use to transfer the shape to the ply. I used a piece of flexible molding as a batten to create the curve for me, then traced with a pencil. Then used ajigsaw to cut the curve. Midway through the cut, I screwed in a brace to prevent the piece from ripping off at the end of the cut.

Do the same thing for the rear half of the profile. DO NOT separate the sheets yet.

Image Notes1. nails tacked in to indicate my curve2. my plans and notes. i printed up the plans then took them to kinkos and had itbound into a book.


Image Notes1. real life profile. my mark so I could tell the orientation of the board.

Image Notes1. screw holding two sheet together2. screw holding two sheet together3. screw holding two sheet together

Image Notes1. starting the cut

Image Notes1. slat to hold piece so it wont tear off

Image Notes1. i used the plans standard measurements to do the tail end cuts2. I need another NINE inches to finish taper


Step 16: Working on Profile, Walls IIInside the trailer, folks frequently have a variety of shelves and cabinetry. Not to mention there is a door (typically on each side) as well. I mocked up with blue painterstape where I thought I would like everything to go.

That helped me figure out where my 1/3 spars needed to be inside the walls. It also helped me figure out where the spars will need to be across the top of the trailer. Idrilled a bunch of small holes completely through both sheets of ply so I knew I'd have perfect registration on each wall. This was ENORMOUSLY helpful.

I also painted all the way around the edge of each piece of ply wood with exterior latex or primer (whatever I had handy). I wanted to impregnate the edges of eachpiece, impregnate teh fibers so water would not soak in easily. Water should never get into this part of the trailer, but I wanted to be careful.

SIDE NOTE: At this point I knew I was going to skin my trailer with something. I was NOT going to leave the wood visible on the side, so I was comfortable screwingthrough the sidewalls to mount spars and whatnot. If you want to have the wood visible, you can do it, but it'll make things more complicated.


Step 17: Cut the door.

Image Notes1. This clamp holds a piece of spar underneath the door so it won't fall to the floorand tear out the cut.


Step 18: Cut & Lay out the spars, attach sparsThe walls on my trailer are insulated as well. To create that space, and to strengthen the walls I used 1x3 spars. This is also important to block out around the door aswell.

Once the spars were all cut to size, I glued and screwed to the sidewall. The registration holes I drilled were an enormous help so I was sure the spars were exactlywhere I wanted them AND matching on each wall.

Now is the time to make sure you'll have blocking in place to support any cabinetry, lighting or fixtures you plan to have inside the sleeping compartment.

For the curved door top, I used a 1x6. I'll use a router to remove the extra material.

Image Notes1. Pieces cut to fit but not yet attached.

Image Notes1. Spars now glued and screwed to wall.2. Special blocking to support cabinetry later.

Step 19: Quirky Profile - The discussion and the solutionThe standard plans use 4x8 sheets of ply as the basic size of the floor and walls. But that means you sacrifice a little floor space. I also felt the curve at the front of thetrailer wasnt aesthetically pleasing for me. I wanted a more pronounced curve.

BUT I was still limited by the 4x8 size of the floor of the trailer.

My solution was to "stretch" the side wall by 9". That allowed the front curve (again, of my own design) to overhang the front of the trailer by 9". It also meant I had tostretch the tailend of the profile by 9".

I used a lap joint and a bunch of construction adhesive to build this. For the tailend, I used the same exact points of the standard cubbie plans. Using a piece of flexiblemolding as a batten to trace the curve. Again screwing both pieces together so they are mirror images and drilling registration holes for reference later.


Step 20: Insulate the walls - Discuss the LIP

Time for more of the pink foam. I cut to fit solid pink foam, 3/4inch. Used Titebond II glue to attach to walls.

One of the features of this build is that you add the headliner from the outside, instead of trying to hold it above your head from the inside. The approach calls for apronounced lip all the way around the cabin. It's essentially the tops of all the spars and insulation cut a pre-determined distance from teh edge of the ply.

What is this distance? Will it is the thickness of the headliner, plus the spars. Such that, when the headline r and spars are added, it will create a flat surface for theexterior skin.

I created a little jig from a razor blade, a piece of headliner (5MM plywood) and a piece of spar. I deliberately went too high with the spars and pink insulation. Then Iwent back and I used this jig to score a line where I needed to trim back. See the pics.

THERE IS ALSO a lip along the bottom of the side wall. The spars and insulation also stop a certain depth from the bottom of the wall. That depth is the depth of the 2x2subfloor plus the 3/4 inch floor ply. This lip allows the wall to rest on both the trailer frame (where the outer ply touches) and on the floor (where the spars touch).

Image Notes1. I left these long then exactly to fit w circ saw.2. The jig shown in the next few pics cuts a line to show me exactly where tocut.


Image Notes1. The space between the two outer pieces is the thickness of the spar materialplus the thickness of the skin material.2. This is the skin material sticking out.

Image Notes1. Utility knife blade held in place by lath screw and a nail.2. The business edge of that blade that does the scoring sticks out right here.

Image Notes1. The jig in position.

Image Notes1. Bracket to support countertop.


2. Adhesive still drying from stretching the plywood. It's covered w wax paper.

Step 21: Finish the Sandwich: the inside surface of the wallsI decided to use 5MM plywood as the inside layer of the wall sandwich (1/2 ply, 1x3 spars & insulation, 5MM ply). Again I screwed the two pieces together. I proceed totrim down the piece so it matched up with the main plywood walls. This is just a first step, as the inner walls now match the exterior wall size. We'll still need to cut itdown one more time.

NEXT I used that same razor blade jig to score a line where the edge of the inner lip should be. Carefully cut these off next. It'll be about a two inch difference thataccomodate teh thickness of the roof & insulation. See the pics. Ultimately the interior wall matches up with spars and insulation. This creates a lip for the headliner torest on.

NEXT I traced where the door opening should be. And cut that out. Again, if you are careful you should be able to use this material for your door. Set this aside in a safe& dry place.

I used a polyurethane mixed with stain, two coats on the inside of the inner walls AND all around the outside cuts. I wanted to impregnate the ends of the walls so theywon't absorb moisture.

Image Notes1. These screws in the corner, and a couple other spots keep the two sheets inalignment.


Image Notes1. After initial cut, walls match exterior wall size. Need one more pass.

Image Notes1. The line cut by the jig.2. Aspen keeping an eye on things.

Image Notes1. Cutting down to get final size of interior wall.

Image Notes1. Now interior wall matches up with spars and insulation. This creates a lip for theheadliner to rest on.


Step 22: Paint the floor. Attach the walls.First thing I did was to put several coats of porch paint (green) on my floor. Some folks use linoleum or adhesive tile or whatever. I was fine with a couple coats ofprimer and a couple coats of paint. I knew that I would rarely see the floor bc the mattress would be there.

Next I attached the walls. I screwed in through the base of the wall into the 2x2 subfloor. This created a really sturdy joint. I used some pieces of ply as braces to holdthe walls up.

I temporarily braced each wall with a couple of spars across the top. The tiny registration holes I drilled through BOTH sheets of ply while they were still sandwichedwere a HUGE help here to get things lined up.

Next step was to attach the inner skins. I line them up and glued and brad nailed to the spars.

Its starting to look like a trailer!!

Image Notes1. Stand the walls up, screw into decking.

Image Notes1. These are temp braces to hold the walls steady.

Image Notes1. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.2. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.3. Inside walls have been painted 2x with polyurathane in color I liked.


Image Notes1. I shot some spray foam into the 'sandwich', It ended up spreading the wallsapart. I carved some back out and it was fine.2. This is looking directly onto the lip that will support the headliner.

Image Notes1. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.2. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.3. Blocking for the cabintry4. Spars temporarily attached. The tiny holes I drilled through BOTH sheets ofply while they were still sandwiched were a HUGE help here to get things linedup.

Step 23: Overhead Cabinet, Velvet, OutletsThis is a smaller cabinet that will be overhead of the sleepers. I added some blocking on the walls. Then crosspieces. I used more of the 5MM ply to build the floor andface. I poly'd the pieces after they were cut to fit and dry fit. Then glued and bradded to the cross pieces. I did NOT build doors, that was a personal preference becauseI didn't want doors or have to deal with making them. I think I'm in the minority there.

I also added to 12 volt outlets and chased that wire into the walls and out the top.

Almost as an afterthought I thought it would be cool add some type of liner inside the cubbie. My wife had some red velvet leftover from a project, so I hot glue gunnedthat into place.

Lastly, I added some dividers, removable if I wanted. Psyched.

Image Notes1. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.2. I'll eventually cut out this framing to get a doorway with a curved top.3. Blocking for the cabintry4. Spars temporarily attached. The tiny holes I drilled through BOTH sheets of plywhile they were still sandwiched were a HUGE help here to get things lined up.


Image Notes1. Hole for 12 volt outlet.

Image Notes1. This is some scrap velvet to line the shelf. Applied with hot glue gun.

Image Notes1. This feeds through into outer wall sandwich. Ultimately into the roof.

Image Notes1. This will ultimately be strung through the roof and back to electrical box ingalley.


Image Notes1. Partition is just wedged in. It will still be removable when trailer is finished.

Image Notes1. Wire strung for my LED lighting.

Image Notes1. Rocker switch for my LED mood lighting. See step 24.

Step 24: LED lights II wanted to have some sort of lighting inside the cabinet. I struck upon adding LEDs to the overhead crosspiece, with a switch to turn them on.

I made sure to wire them so I could pull them out and have enough wire to work with for a different solution if they ever got jacked up.

I also added a second pair of wires with about 3 feet of extra length, just in case I later decided to add any other electrical items. I simply folded the extra wire and tuckedit into a corner.


Step 25: Starting Main & Galley CabinetryWorking off the ends of the sidewall sammich. I began to add crosspieces and more sections of the 5MM ply and insulation to build up the walls. I used 1/2 ply forhorizontal (load-bearing, shelving) pieces and 5MM for vertical walls. I sandwiched more rigid foam insulation in the vertical walls. I probably ought to have done that inthe horizontal walls, too, but I didnt. See pics.

I screwed through the outer sidewall into the blocking and crosspieces. I would determine where I wanted a piece, trace in pencil, then drill a pilot hole FROM the insideTO the outside. That way when I screwed into the wall, through that pilot hole, from the outside I knew I was hitting my blocking/spars precisely where I wanted to. Itmade things very very strong.

The drawback is that I would not be able to leave the outside of my sidewalls natural, as some designs indicate.

I decided to just use a piece of ply with many coatings of poly as my countertop. I may come back and cover it with another surface later.

Also, at some point I'll use a router and cut out the frame at the top of each side door. SAVE THAT PIECE for when you build your door.

Wiring Note: I knew I was going to run various electrical through the roof, so I used a fat piece of conduit to create a run from the roof down to where my electrical boxbe.


Image Notes1. You can see top of grey conduit sticking up behind wall.2. 12 volt electrical panel. Designed for a boat, from Bass Pro Shops.3. Another piece of conduit that will run wires down to 12 volt battery which will goin box on the floor.4. Shallow shelf.


Step 26: Electric Box

Now there are many many ways to set up your electrical service. See the main forum ( ) for those discussions. You can either or both 12volt or 110 service. I opted forboth BUT very basic with the 110 service.

I opted for a longer sleeping area which meant I could NOT put the electrical box under the countertop. So I built a box on top of the countertop and to the side. I ran apiece of conduit up the inside of the wall to catch wires that run through the ceiling. I used 12 gauge for the 12volt outlets and 16 guage for everything else. I used afuseboard I got from Bass Pro. It's meant for boats but worked fine for my purposes.

I also used a "shore power inlet" to bring in 110 service. It's basically a gasket with a very thin face. You can plug an extension cord or power strip through the back of it,and the prongs will appear on the face. The plug is then held in place by a bracket. Then you can simply plug an extension cord to the outside. Flap-type lid seals frommoisture. Pretty nifty.


Image Notes1. Circuit Breaker. Critically important. From auto parts store.

Image Notes1. Extra plug/socket connection for trailer lights. I do not have to cut the wires toremove the hatch.2. Extra set of electrical connections. I do not have to cut the wires to remove thehatch.

Step 27: Main Cabinet, LED II, Wiring

In the main cabinet in the cabin, I added 2 more 12 volt outlets. Then ran those wires in flexible black conduit. I also added LED lights in the crosspiece with a switch.

Here is a lot more detail on how I built the LED features:

I bought individual LEDs, LED holders, resisters, from Radio Shack. I used my regular spar material. I cut a channel along the side to hold the wiring. Then I drilled a1/4 inch hole allthe way through the piece ~ this will hold the LED bulb. I glued a LED bbulb holder to mount the bulb.

I then drilled an intersecting hole 3/4" (I think) sideways through the piece. This gave me access to place the bulb, solder, etc. Then link up all the bulbs, with the properresistor. Go here for help with calculating the proper resistor. I couldnt have done this part without this calculator.

It's critically important to keep track of the polarity of yer bulbs. Don't forget!

See pics ~ they can describe better than I can.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz


Image Notes1. You can just see the shadow from the 12 volt outlets I put on underside ofcabinet.2. Switch for the exterior light.3. Switch for exterior light. Wiring sticking out the top.

Image Notes1. vertical piece of plywood forms back of closet. glued up against spars.2. Bird's eye view of the triple spar

Image Notes1. Pair of 12 volt outlets. I'll work up some type of cover.


Step 28: Tripled Spar for Hurricane Hinge; Battery Box

Now that I have the 'attic' all built, I can put in a heavy duty spar. This is a tripled-up piece of wood that will be the base for the hurricane hinge. This is where the realhatch will attach to the trailer.

I also added the batter box and battery disconnect.

Image Notes1. three spars sistered up to create base for hurricane hinge

Image Notes1. Manual battery disconnect.

Image Notes1. Placement of battery box.

Step 29: Porch LightsOn either side of the trailer I added an exterior light next to the door. I had left a channel inside the wall sandwich to run that wiring.

I'm fortunate there is a very good RV supply place in KC that carries a ton of RV parts and supplies. They don't have a website. You can find similar lighting on theintertubes. I added a switch on the interior for the lights.


Image Notes1. Wire from fixture runs up inside the wall out out the top.

Image Notes1. You can just see the shadow from the 12 volt outlets I put on underside ofcabinet.2. Switch for the exterior light.3. Switch for exterior light. Wiring sticking out the top.


Step 30: Install HeadlinerThis is essentially the ceiling inside the trailer. I used more 5mm plywood, painted with the poly stain mix. I was worried about bending the ply after I applied the poly. So I bent the ply into an approximate shape to apply the poly. I was expecting a battle but really had no problems attaching.

I then placed my structural spars over the headliner, starting with the very lowest in the front. This "pinched" the ply between the lip on the walls and the spar. I alsochased the varies electric wires into the roof space, then through holes in each spar.

I wound up not putting _any_ material fasteners through the headliner!! It was pinched into place under the spars and on the lip. I did add a stripe of Titebond II gluealong each spar.

On the roof you will want to add any blocking you may require for lighting or a vent/fan. If you plan on a roof rack or storage or roof-mounted solar panel, you'll need tostart planning how to mount those items.

One last note, the 8 foot long piece of headliner was not long enough to reach all the way back the triple spar. I had to fashion another 18inch piece of headliner to makeup the difference. This range included the spot where I have that conduit chase, so I cut a notch for that. I also wanted to add some lighting in the back of this cabinet,so I hot-glued a LED strip in the back.


Image Notes1. Notch where headliner will slip into place. Once in there, I'll tighten down on thescrews (there on the left) and lock it into place.


Image Notes1. Illustration of headliner material slipped into that notch.

Image Notes1. Getting into position2. Spars ready to go.

Image Notes1. Headliner pinched into position. It's not going anywhere!


Image Notes1. Closeup of headliner 'pinched' in place.

Image Notes1. Holes in headliner to accept wiring from 12 volt outlets and porch lights.

Image Notes1. Adding spars. Screwing through sidewall. Appying TB II along spar to glueheadliner to spar.

Image Notes1. The first glimpse of what the inside will look like.


Image Notes1. What the heck is this? It's a brick on top of a fender on top of 3 clamps. Thisspar was slightly warped and I needed the weight to hold it in place until the gluedried.2. This is a rigged up brace holding the spar while glue dries.

Image Notes1. notch to accommodate conduit chase


Image Notes1. a second piece of headliner cut to fit the gap


Image Notes1. LED strip w hot glue.

Image Notes1. fitting headliner piece into place around the conduit chase.2. wires from LED strip

Image Notes1. view from the inside.


Image Notes1. I used 1x1 spars here bc I'm not sure exactly where the exterior skin seamwill hit...

Image Notes1. lip sealed2. holes to route wiring

Image Notes1. the piece sagged so I braced while the glue dried

Step 31: Insulate the roof

After the headliner is installed, you can start to glue in your insulation. I used about a 2 inch of rigid foam.

On the curves I used a base of 3/4 inch foam, kerfed with a utility knife so it would fold. I used Titebond II to glue it down. I then used 1/4 sheets (usually three) to fill inthe rest of the space. Also glued with TB II.

I used a variety of nails and strips of material to hold it all into place.


Image Notes1. My lo-tech solution to run 110 in the sleeping compartment.

Step 32: Blocking for Light, Vent; Notes on VENT FANAt the appropriate point, you'll have to cut a hole for a vent. I wired separate vent fans that were actually 12 volt PC fans.

Image Notes1. once i drilled pilot hole in each corner I knew where to put my tape.


Image Notes1. i drilled a hole in each corner2. traced the fan molding, with spacing around it for strips of 5mm ply3. blocking of 1x6. this will hold the overhead light in the cabin.

Image Notes1. hole cut. tape minimized chipping

Image Notes1. view from inside cabin. nice and clean.

Image Notes1. Trim for vent installed.


Image Notes1. 5mm ply up against the 1x6 blocking. little holes for wiring.2. 5mm ply fit btw the molding and spar

Image Notes1. blocking for the vent fan switch2. two layers of 5mm ply glued in place

Image Notes1. more 5mm ply to build out the fan channel2. door for wiring compartment

Image Notes1. gluing last bit of blocking in place

Image Notes1. Sliding door.

Image Notes1. sliding door to wiring compartment in place


Image Notes1. door slid open

Image Notes1. i made up my own wiring harness with two plugs, to run two computer fans. ifthey ever crap out I can swap them out.

Image Notes1. added insulation. smooth profile.

Image Notes1. sometimes you have to stop for dessert!!

Image Notes1. switch wired up. this is the original location. tested and working. after I attachedthe exterior roof, this switch started working. disaster averted as I was able to tapinto the light fixture.


Image Notes1. driled hole for switch. tape was to minimize chipping.

Image Notes1. splitter wire harness to run two fans2. two pc fans. i simplified wiring, getting rid of yellow control wire.


Step 33: Finishing WiringWith the headliner in, the vent and ceiling light installed, the insulation can be finished and the wiring can move along.

I ran the wiring through the roof, drilling horizontal holes through spars to run the wires. I chased the wires down through the conduit tube and started to connect to thefuseboard. I found it critically important to label your wires. If you plan to use LEDs you also want to keep track of polarity too!!

Like I mentioned earlier, I used 12 gauge wire for my outlets. But I used 16 gauge for everything else. In my case, I don't expect a heavy amp-load. You can google andread about max amp loads for different wire guages. Also read about the 'amp-draw' that various fixtures may have. That will influence your wiring decisions.

In my case, I'm only going to use 15amp fuses for my outlets and 10amp fuses for everything else. Why? I'm going to want to know (and stop) any heavy amp-draws offmy battery. It'll blow out an automotive glass tube type fuse, but those are cheap and I'll carry many spares. Radio shack has em by the bag.

Between the fuse box and the deep cycle 12 volt battery are a couple of safety precautions. One is a 30 amp circuit breaker on the positive line from the battery to theboard. The other is a mechanical cutoff switch.

You can see how I fleshed out the 110 service too. I used a power box with a true circuit breaker in it. I plugged that on the back side of the 'shore power inlet'. I have aportable GFCI unit that will go into the outlet I draw shore power from, thru extension cord to inlet. For inside the cabin, I'll plug in a small power strip into my circuitbreaker box. It's kind of rigged but it satisfies my need for simplicity and not dealing with making any 110 connections myself.


Image Notes1. fitting headliner piece into place around the conduit chase.2. wires from LED strip

Image Notes1. another view of the 3 spars.2. all the wiring from the front of trailer and ceiling routed through conduit downinto electric box


Image Notes1. here is that notch in that extra headliner piece


Image Notes1. 30 amp circuit breaker from auto parts store2. Mechanical cutoff switch.3. Power box with a true circuit breaker in it. It plugs into shore power outlet inouterwall of trailer.

Step 34: Book ShelfSo it sounds weird but I wanted a bookshelf in my cubbie. Of course a bookshelf in a moving vehicle presents some concerns. So I wanted to create a way to hold thebooks in place.

I started with a 1x6 board, cut to fit the entirely across the cabin. I routed two channels, about a foot long at each end. (see pics).

I used a milk crate and foam insulation pieces to find the right height. I made sure it was level and square then traced the end of the board on the wall. I drilled from theinside out to give me the exact point to screw in from the outside. In general I used this approach for most of my walls and cabinets.

This approach is different than most plans. Most plans do NOT have you screw through the walls. I figured it was a hell of a lot easier. I can bondo and smooth and stillsheathe in aluminum, paint, etc.


Image Notes1. this channel is only about a foot long. i put one at each end of the shelf

Image Notes1. my pencil markings

Image Notes1. my drill holes from inside to outside...

Image Notes1. here is where they came out...


Image Notes1. next I countersunk the holes so the screwheads.2. shore power inlet

Image Notes1. finally got around to cutting out the curve of the door.2. many screwheads that will need to be bondo'd eventually.

Step 35: Attach exterior layer of roof.This was kind of tricky. I actually glued the front half down first, with some aluminum nails at key points. Once the glue cured, then I glued down the second half/roof. You'll need lots of clamps and blocking.

Again one piece won't stretch the entire distance. Trim the first sheet so it ends midway on one of the spars. Then cut another piece to fit from the spar back to thetripled up spar where the hurricaine hinge will go.

I had some trouble getting the sheet to lay right along the tripled up spar so I ended up using a lot of little nails to keep it in place until the hinge was screwed in place. See the next step.

Image Notes1. Cargo straps to help hold it in place.


Image Notes1. Anchor for straps. I actually used a racheting system to draw it tight. Notpictured here.

Image Notes1. I used some pencil registration marks to make sure things were square.

Image Notes1. You'll need lots of clamps and blocking for the roof.


Step 36: Attach roof side of hurricane hingeNow that outer roof is down, we can attach body side of hurricane hinge. I special ordered this hinge online. It comes in a beefly plastic tube, so no worries about itgetting damaged in transit.

Simply follow instructions on how to affix it. Initially I used a 2x2 and clamps to hold skin in place as glue cured. I had slight problems with the lip of the 5mm plywoodstaying down, so used a ton of tiny nails. I'm a little anal retentive sometimes.

I drilled pilot holes ( again using the hinge drill bit tool) and squirted some silicone caulk in each hole before final assembly. You probably cannot do final attachment atthis point. Just do a dry fit. I think I attached and removed mine 3 or 4 times.

Image Notes1. The seam between the two sheets of ply that made of the roof is under this 2x4,curing.

Image Notes1. Tiny nails - interspersed with pilot holes for the hurricane hinge.

Image Notes1. Roof is looking slick. It's been treated with CPES in this pic.2. Homemade mallet.

Step 37: Hatch Part 1 - Hurricane HingeI'm using a special water-resistant type hinge for the galley hatch. Its designed so that water cannot run inside through the hinge. Available only online that I know of.

To support that weight I needed a beefy cross piece. So I sistered up three crosspieces here.

The back of the main cabinet leans up against this piece. I put some TBII in there to seal it. I used some pencil lines so I knew where the screws were.

The outer roof covers this spar to very edge.


Image Notes1. three spars sistered up to create base for hurricane hinge

Image Notes1. another view of the 3 spars.2. all the wiring from the front of trailer and ceiling routed through conduit downinto electric box

Image Notes1. vertical piece of plywood forms back of closet. glued up against spars.2. Bird's eye view of the triple spar

Step 38: Hatch Part 2 - Build the Hatch FrameI used a piece of cardboard to trace the actual curve of the hatch. Then I transferred this to 3/8 ply, bc that is what I had on hand.

I cut out 10 pieces. I sistered them up in two pairs of 2 and two pairs of 3. Using TB II.

Once the ribs were built, I carefully put them in situ on the trailer. I used a 1/4 inch spacer at top of spar, 1/2 inch space along walls and 1/16 at base of spar.

I positioned some cross pieces and notched out the spars where appropriate. Then I assembled everyting together, glues and screws, but LOOSELY. I then put theframe back on the trailer, made sure all my spacing was correct. ONLY THEN did it cinch down the screws. Then left it to dry in place.

Note: some folks complain/warn that their hatch springs out after it is built. Those hatches seem to be built with the ribs going horizontal instead of vertical. Such thatthe plywood overpowers everything and pushes the hatch out of shape. I'd suggest running your ribs vertically. YMMV.


Image Notes1. getting in position

Image Notes1. tracing the curve


Image Notes1. the product


Image Notes1. comparing the pattern to the trailer

Image Notes1. i used my pattern to cut this piece from a sheet of ply. i matched it up to curveand cleaned it up. at this point i decided to ditch the cardboard template and usethis piece of ply as my template!!


Image Notes1. now isnt that pretty. time to make 10 more.2. slats cut from the tops of my side doors

Image Notes1. Gluing up the ribs.


Step 39: Hatch Part 3 - Skin the Hatch; Lights and ElectricSo I have my framework ready. Now I attach the skin. I'm using the same 5mm plywood from Lowes. Made in USA. I measured the distance I'll need and cut to fit. Idid NOT enclose the frame because I thought it looked cool. Once I'm finish sealing the whole thing w CPES I'll paint the underside white.

I plan to use a minimum number of fasteners to attach the sheet to the frame. I used construction adhesive and glue and lots of clamps. See pics.

One element to address is the overlap of the side lips over the side walls. I had a 1 inch overlap on the two side edges of the hatch.

Next I used rattle can of primer to paint the inside white. It wasn't enough, so I ultimately used a paint brush and some Kilz to get better coverage.


Step 40: Hatch Part 4 - CPES, spray paint & hardwareOnce the hatch was assembled. I coated the whole thing, inside and out, w CPES. I then painted the underside with white primer. I used a spray can for the initial coatbc I knew it'd be tough to reach all the spots on the ribs with a brush or roller. I'm going to leave it white to it helps keep the workspace bright.

I ran the wires for the running lights. Affixed bracket for tags. I added switched overhead light. I don't like how that overhead light works, but it's fine for now.

Eventually I'll cover the inside of the hatch for a neater look.

ONE NOTE: I put a trailer wire connection between the main body of the trailer and the hatch. That way if I want to remove the hatch, I can simply disconnect the wiresversus having to cut them.

Image Notes1. These screw holes will be patched with the epoxy filler.2. The CPES dries clear, but leaves a shiny surface.

Step 41: Hatch Part 5 - attach hatch side of hingeNow we can attach the hatch side of the hurricane hinge.

I clamped the hatch in place, then clamped the hinge to the hatch. I drilled pilot holes with the hinge tool. Again this tool is makes it super easy. Then removed the hingeand finished the pilot holes with a regular drill bit.

Once these are complete, you'll be able to slide on the hatch and check it out!! I used a 2x4 to prop up the hatch initially. Be careful as wind can catch your hatch!!

I drilled pilot holes ( again using the hinge drill bit tool) and squirted some silicone caulk in each hole before final assembly. Again this is probably not the finalattachment, just do a dry fit and be prepared to pull it back off for further work.


Step 42: Wire the brake, marker, turn lights

I deliberately kept the trailer running lights completely separate. They are run from a plug into the tow vehicle like any trailer. In this case it's a four prong connector. Thewires are routed under the trailer. Then they snake up along the inside of the driver's side wall through and out the top of my electrical box. I added an additionalconnection at the hatch so I could simply unplug instead of having to cut wires if I need to remove the hatch.

I wanted to make sure my brake lights were super obvious so I placed them on the hatch AND placed a third light at eye level. It's LED, super bright and super annoyingto anyone following me.

Image Notes1. Extra plug/socket connection for trailer lights. I do not have to cut the wires toremove the hatch.

Image Notes1. Screw heads concealed under epoxy filler, then sanded smooth.2. Trailer lights mounted to exterior of hatch.


2. Extra set of electrical connections. I do not have to cut the wires to remove thehatch.

Step 43: Epoxy everything!Once the hatch is built and the roof is attached and cured. And you have the hole cut for the vent fan (although you could probably wait and do at a later step if youwanted) it's time to seal the outside of the trailer.

I used Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) from The Rot Doctor. He seems to be a good guy to work with, responded super-quick to my email questions. This stuffpenetrates and encapsulates wood so that it resists rot and deterioration. It cures rock hard. It will still need some sort of UV protection.

I applied the CPES per the directions. I ended up with three coats in quick succession. I used a total of two 2-quart batches to cover everything (trailer sides & roof,hatch, doors) and I have a little bit left over.

I used an epoxy based filler to patch cracks & seams and hide screw holes. That is the white dots and stripes you see on the raw-looking wood.

Other options would be to use some other type of sealer or even exterior house paint.

Image Notes1. Roof is looking slick. It's been treated with CPES in this pic.2. Homemade mallet.

Image Notes1. These screw holes will be patched with the epoxy filler.2. The CPES dries clear, but leaves a shiny surface.

Step 44: Build the Doors - Part 1Now it is time to turn attention to the side doors. You should already have some door blanks cut from when you made the openings in the side wall. You should alsohave the curved pieces you trimmed out of the top of the door frame.

Build up the doors like you built up the walls with 3/4 inch spars and rigid foam insluation. Trace the window trim pieces where you wnat then and cut them out with the askil saw. I found it immensely helpful to use pencil and sharpie to mark my pieces so I didnt get them confused.

Assemble and dry fit the window, but DO NOT permanently attached yet. Apply CPES to exterior side and let dry.


Image Notes1. Screw heads concealed under epoxy filler, then sanded smooth.2. Trailer lights mounted to exterior of hatch.

Image Notes1. Same sandwich construction used in the main sidewalls.


Step 45: Build the Doors - Part 2So now we have two door blanks to work with. Make sure you keep track which is passneger side and which is drivers side!!

Before we can affix the hinge and latch mechanisms, we need to see how the door will fit in the opening. To do that, we FIRST have to fit all the trim.

I did my trim a little bit unorthodox. Most folks use a T-shaped aluminum trim that creates a natural cover of the door seam. I was itching to get this done so I just used1/2 inch angle from Lowes and ACE. I used lathe screws with oversized heads to attach. I used a simple jig on my drill press to hold the al angle while I pre-drilledholes. Try to make sure your holes don't overlap with adjacent bits of trim. I had a couple spots where the screws crossed paths. That is a pain in the neck!!

A CRITICAL PART OF placing the trim was using a hinge drill bit set from Harbor freight. This is an attachment that centers a pilot hole in the middle of an opening. Thenyou can come back drill out the hole knowing it is exactly in place. Super easy to use (altho they needed a little bit of powdered graphite at first). See here:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-hinge-drill-bit-set-41907.html. I strongly recommend this type of tool.

I also used a 1-3/8 inch door bottom as my threshhold. I ended up having to trim down the rubber gasket, but it worked great. See pics. behind the hinge I used a pieceof inner tube rubber to fill the gap. I also used some flashing that I had to cover the door jambs.

I used a wide piece of aluminum along the top of the door frame. The lip of the aluminum extended proud of the wall. I used this ledge as a base for my drip edge. Thedrip edge is just a piece of molding, w CPES. I predrilled nail holes.

To get the molding to bend easily I fixed a piece of conduit vertically. Covered the bottom end with duct tape. Put the molding inside, then pouring in boiling water fromteapot. (Don't tell my wife I used her teapot.) After about 5 minutes I poured it out and it was much more pliable. Then I affixed it to trailer.

Once all the trim is in place, I could put the doors in place and finaly see how they fit.


Step 46: Build the Doors - Part 3Once the opening was all trimmed out AND the door was all trimmed out, we could fit it together and see where to attach the hinge. I used a stainless steel piano hingeand the lath screws.

A CRITICAL PART OF placing the hinge was using a hinge drill bit set from Harbor freight. This is an attachment that centers a pilot hole in the middle of an opening. Then you can come back drill out the hole knowing it is exactly in place. Super easy to use (altho they needed a little bit of powdered graphite at first). See here:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-hinge-drill-bit-set-41907.html.

Once the hinge was in place, I taped it down and drilled my perfectly-spaced starter pilot holes with the hinge drill bit. Then came back and finished them with a regulardrill bit. Then I attached with lath screws.

Then I went to work on the latch. Same deal: start pilot holes with hinge drill bit, drilled them out, then attached with lath screws. I ended up using some pieces ofaluminum to build up under the handle. You'll have to fabricate something that works for you. At some point you'll cut down the square rod that fits through the internalmechanism. I left mine long for now - I'll take care of it down the road.


Step 47: PAINTOur initial plan was to sheath this thing in aluminum but we ran into two snags. 1. Aluminum was really expensive. And 2 we really wanted to start using this thing. Somy wife and I decided to just paint it. Which we we ended up loving. And if we change our mind we can skin it with aluminum later.

The first step to paint it was to take off EVERYTHING. Take off the trim around the doors, take off the hurricane hinge. I had not attached the vent yet so that was fine.

I used a high quaility exterior latex paint. Two coats. I used a cream color and I'll later paint on a fat green stripe.

Once that is good and dry, reattach all the trim and hinges. I used a squirt of silicone caulk on all the screws to make sure everything was sealed.


Step 48: Build the doors - Part 4: the return of the windowsNow that we are all painted and reassembled, we can do some final attachment.

I used some standard windows I ordered online. They sandwich together into a hole that I pre-cut in the door. My door was just a hair thicker than the trim piece, so Ihad to use some slightly longer machine screws than what were supplied. I also drilled some pilot holes just to make things go quicker.

Check it!

Image Notes1. I don't have better pic of this step. This is when I was dry fitting things together earlier.

Step 49: Vent FanI used a vent that is smaller than the standard size. It did NOT come with a fans. So I used some simple PC puck fans and small pieces of metal angle. Used simplybolts with wingnuts to attach.

I wired them to include a plug/socket connection in case one craps out. I can swap out the fan without having to cut a wire.

Look at Step 32 for more info.


Step 50: Road worthy - more or less!!So now that it's painted, the windows are on, the doors reattached... it's time to take some pics. There is still some work to do, but we can get this thing out on thehighway.

Make sure your trailer lights are working correctly. I used a bungie to hold the hatch closed.

At this stage I took my first peramubulations around the neighborhood, and then onto the highway. It towed like a dream. I had it up to 70 mph with no problems. I couldbarely tell it was there.

Note: in most other states, you'll have to get a license tag from your DMV. In Kansas, for trailers under 2,000 pounds you don't need a license plate issued to you. Youonly need to display a sign indicating trailer us under 2,000 lbs. You'll have to investigate laws for your area.

Image Notes1. This is the only licensing required in Kansas for trailers under 2000 lbs.

Step 51: Trimming out the hatchWork isn't done. Now I'll need to add some trim along the sidewalls of the hatch to keep out water.

First I'll use some 1/2 inch aluminum channel from the box store. A lot of places can give you instructions on annealing the aluminum to make it soft enough to bend. Iwas just toying with it and simply gently bent it on my knee!! I couldnt believe it. I slowly bent the channel and dry fit it into place until I was satisfied.

I used a jig that I created to hold the channel sideways so I could drill pilot holes to fix the channel to the wall.

I also cut a little notch at the bottom end of the channel where the wall meets the floor. See pics for details.

I also added a strap of 1inch by 1/8 aluminum alongside the underside of the hatch edge. I used large pop rivets to hold in place.

I'll eventually add some rubber molding onto the hatch itself, that will compress against the al channel to seal the hatch.


Image Notes1. Hurricane hinge.

Step 52: BeddingThere are lots of different approaches to bedding. We got a great deal on a 2 inch thermopedic mattress topper.

I measured the distance from inside wall to inside wall, and then cut the mattress about a inch wider than that. I wanted it snug in place. It worked out really well.

Two inches might be a little thin for some. When I sit on it, I can feel the floor, but when I stretch out I don't. If it becomes a problem, we can add a second layer ofclosed cell foam. My wife is going to sew up some special sized sheets and whatnot.


Step 53: FendersI'm gonna add fenders.

Step 54: FittingsI'm gonna add hooks, lights, iPad bracket.

Step 55: BookshelvesI'm gonna finish out the bookshelves in the sleeping compartment.

Step 56: Diamond plate gravel shieldI'm gonna add a metal gravel shield to bottom half of the leading edge of the trailer.

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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 65 comments

StuNutt says: Jul 28, 2011. 2:46 PM REPLY

A terrific 'ible. I'll never build one myself, but enjoyed just reading it all through and the pics of your great woodworking skills. But why TWO doors? Surelyjust one door woud hve been enough, and the extra inside surface would have been useful?

And can you really get two "bunks" in there as well as a galley? Love to see how it all fits in when you get it finished!

BTW - in UK, a "Ford Focus" is an Estate carhttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/2001_Ford_Focus_ZX3_front_--_06-09-2010.jpg/250px-2001_Ford_Focus_ZX3_front_--_06-09-2010.jpg(I thnk you call them "caravans" in US). Ours is 1800ccc and could probably pull the weght but my wife had terrible experiences with "trailers" as a kid onholidays with her folks andsadly wouldn't even think of it now!

jwilliams37 says: Jul 28, 2011. 2:38 PM REPLYThis is an awesome build. If you add a solar panel or two to charge your battery during the day then you wouldn't need to worry about over loading your carsalternator. -Just a thought

com-2d says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:59 PM REPLYWow, I really want to build one of these now. Very nice instructable!

Also, M=1,000 in roman numerals.

bryan3141 says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:55 PM REPLYI'm not sure I understand. Why did you want the axle above rather than below the leaf springs?

Shiseiji says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:24 PM REPLYJust great! My family had a '47 teardrop covered in aluminum scrap from the aircraft industry. I still mourn the loss of it. Very inspiring.

Ron

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:47 PM REPLYOh wow. That was the real deal. Maybe you can restore an old one (they are out there) or even build a reproduction

Check out these vintage plans: http://www.mikenchell.com/VintagePlans/vintageplans.html.

totszwai says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:22 PM REPLYCould you post a video on the whole thing overall? Such as opening the door, getting inside, what it looks like once you are in there... head room, leg room,etc. Cool project.

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:45 PM REPLYHeck yeah. I'll do that tonight. I didn't realize I could post video!!

fzxdf5 says: Jul 28, 2011. 8:05 AM REPLYHope you used Stainless Screws...deck screws will rust out on you...

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:16 PM REPLYWHAT!! Rust!? I've never heard of rust!! What is this 'rust' you speak of!! Perhaps you have revealed one of the ancient mysteries of the universe.

You mean certain metals may deteriorate when exposed to water!! Someone call NASA!! Call the Academy of Sciences!! Call Al Gore and Ralph Nader!!We must spread the word before it is too late!!

I used deck screws. It'll be fine.

fzxdf5 says: Jul 28, 2011. 8:08 AM REPLYTwo questions...

What type if ply wood did you use?

What type of tar? I've been using driveway sealer lately for the bottom and exterier walls of my deer blinds, it is easier to apply and does a great job atpreserving the wood...and you can get colored sealer too.

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Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:09 PM REPLYI used 1/2 inch ply for the decking and sidewalls. Then 3/8 inch ply for countertop and horizontal bulkhead walls between sleeping compartment andgalley.

I used AMERICAN-made 5mm ply for the inside walls and vertical bulkhead walls.

As far as tar, I used 'fencepost' tar from a box store. It's a low-tech solution. I think plain ol roofing tar would work the same. Some folks have had theirbottoms sprayed with undercoating or truckbed sealer. They seemed like overkill for my purposes.

weeniewawa says: Jul 28, 2011. 9:52 AM REPLYhow does your 12 volt system charge? have you seen the solar panels from Harbor Freight?

it would keep your system charged until you plug it in to your vehicle

nice work on this

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:04 PM REPLYI have a battery tender/charger that I use. This is the one I have:http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0157-1-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B002DU3S9A/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1311879751&sr=8-10

Some folks have their 12 volt connected to their vehicle, so they can charge while traveling. I plan to have minimal electrical needs, and to use LEDlighting where possible. So I opted for a less complex system.

Again, this is one of those places where you can customize your trailer to what suits how you plan to use it.

Krytenthesmug says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:06 AM REPLYHere is the lazy man's way out...

http://www.clevercamper.co.uk/

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 12:01 PM REPLYWow that is a beautiful trailer. Beautiful workmanship.

Handiest1 says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:46 AM REPLYI haven't read all the way through yet, but before you skin the inside of the hatch are you going to insulate? Everything else is, and I'm thinking you aregonna have some cold feet.

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:59 AM REPLYGood question - I'm not insulating the hatch. But I did insulate the wall between the sleeping compartment and the galley. So the sleeping compartmentis fully insulated. Well, except for the very back of the cubbies.

krodami says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:31 AM REPLYEver since I first heard of this type of trailer and how (relatively) non-difficult (I won't even dare say "easy"!!) they are to build, I've been fascinated by theversatility and customizable nature of them - not to mention how helpful and inciteful the communities of users/builders are!

... Now if I only lived in a house with a garage instead of in an apartment. (Heck, they technically won't even let you change your oil or add transmission fluidin the parking lot, let alone have a year-long building project, lol!)

You did a GREAT job designing, modifying and building the trailer, and describing how you did it too - looks beautiful! Do you plan on adding to theinstructable as you continue with steps 53+? (Just wondering. I'm sure most of use would be able to figure out how to do it, I'm just curious how it'll lookwhen those steps are done too.)

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:57 AM REPLYYeah I plan to continue adding steps as I finish it out.

You ought to check out this guy. He built a beautiful trailer - in a parking garage... nuts I cannot get the forum to load. I'll add a link in a sec.

Dianamite says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:40 AM REPLYI haven't read through the whole instructable (nice work!) but I'm wondering if you know the final weight?

Rob O says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:54 AM REPLYI haven't weighed it yet. But I will and I'll post the actual weight. My wild guess is around 700-800 pounds.

paulbsa says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:39 AM REPLYFantastic, ambitious project. I've been thinking about one of these for a while, this might just have inspired me to give up the tent camping.




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dejure says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:34 AM REPLYFor those who want to crank up the life of plywood and such, treat it and all wood surfaces before you apply any other protectant. You can make your owntreatment using cheap poly and a hardening oil, like tung oil or boiled linseed oil.

Adding hardening oil to your poly reduces its hardness, but gives it more flex (that's how they crank up the expensive exterior finishes, by making them "longoil" (more oil) finishes. Adding about 25% hardening oil to your poly will reduce its tendency to separate from your wood.

To start treating wood, start by thinning your treatment 50% with mineral spirits, turpentine or naphtha. As long as the wood keeps soaking it in, keep addingit. I'll often leave a bucket by the wood and do other thing throughout the day and add more each time I walk by.

Give the first treatment a few days to harden (the solvent will evaporate off and the poly-oil mix will harden). Then you can drop back to a 25% mix and dothe same thing.

Doing this wherever leaks might appear or where the wood would be subjected to water (e.g., around vents, doors and windows, or the underside) cangreatly increase the life of your investment. Even if the siding, tar or whatever fails, it will come up against your polymerized wood, which will be protected,

I do this to particle board, such as around sink installations, and it stops it from swelling and falling apart.

jblessf says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:30 AM REPLYThis is wonderful!! Just what I need. Your instuctions are great. Thank you for sharing.

joelmck says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:27 AM REPLYShouldn't it read under 2K or 2 Kilo = 2000

I think 2M is 2 mega = 2,000,000?

This is simply the best Instructable ever! My family used to have one of these trailers and it was extremely usable. I have really enjoyed following this.

krodami says: Jul 28, 2011. 11:15 AM REPLY(I just looked this up because I was curious about it, and then saw your question, so I figured I'd put my 2 cents in...)

In Kansas, if your trailer is under 2000 pounds, you don't need a license plate for it, but they recommend a generic "Kansas under 2m" tag so you don'trun into trouble if you go to another state. I have yet to find what the "M" stands for, though. (I know that the French word for "thousand" is "mille"... But Iseriously doubt that's what it actually stands for.)

But you are correct in that M = mega = 1 million.

Since the measurement is 2000lb, I wonder why they just didn't put "under 1 ton" or "under 1t"... Oh well.

Great instructable! Now I wish I had a garage to do something like this in (since a teardrop trailer would be just about the only thing my Ford Focus couldtow, hehe... Great mileage, but not the best vacation car on the planet.)

Handiest1 says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:57 AM REPLYWith that hatch thickness, too bad yo couldn't flush mount the lights.

pbergeronronronron says: Jul 26, 2011. 10:54 AM REPLYgreat instructables to here (havent finished reading yet)figgure is the proper way to say

dr.knowitall says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:53 AM REPLYactually, it is "figure." just sayin'.

dr.knowitall says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:27 AM REPLYlol, yeah actually, I'm a journeyman machinist and that is a trick I learned a long time ago (using motor oil). believe it or not, I've even used vegetable oil as alast resort for aluminum pieces and it works surprisingly well.

doodle961 says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:16 AM REPLYthis is so amazing! we already have a trailer we got from a neighbors yard sale and have been wondering what to do with it :)

fbenson says: Jul 28, 2011. 8:53 AM REPLYI have very fond memories of teardrop trailers as we had one in the sixties. Maximize the storage all you can inside and in the kitchen. Enjoy!

http://www.instructables.com/member/dejure/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments

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oldhondarider says: Jul 28, 2011. 7:36 AM REPLYTotally Awesome.

mpintovsj says: Jul 28, 2011. 7:03 AM REPLYImpresionante, no sé si tengo la fuerza para hacer algo asi.

Fantastico !!

Congratulations!!

rowerwet says: Jul 28, 2011. 3:17 AM REPLYnice TD, glad to see someone make an i'ble out of a build, I didn't have the time to take pics during my build, just pics at the end of the dayhttp://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.206659206023371.51405.100000378802082&l=0101d83097&type=1pics of my build

dchall8 says: Jul 26, 2011. 3:07 PM REPLYBefore I start coming across like a buzzkill, I first want to say that this is an amazing project and you did an amazing job! Nicely done and nice instructable. If you wanted to improve upon it you might put a parts list, cost, and sources to buy up front. But that is beside my other point...

There is a reason why cars (and boats for that matter) are no longer made of wood. Wood is normally joined together with steel fasteners. When woodabsorbs moisture, the steel fasteners are right there in prolonged, direct contact. The screws will rust, shrink, and fall out. Some of the modern deck screwsare coated to prevent rusting. From my experience they work very well. I have had occasion to disassemble some old projects and the coated screws wereactually reusable. So I would caution people to use excellent hardware when trying to make a vehicle like this out of wood.

Another issue is that wood shrinks and expands with moisture and temperature. The joints you thought were tight could loosen without doing anything. Withthat in mind I would strongly suggest a full coat of good glue on both sides of every joint. Leave no room in the bond for moisture to enter the joint. Wipe theexcess after screwing it together.

Regarding your glue, Tightbond II: it is a glorified Elmer's white glue. For a project that I wanted to keep, I would use regular Gorilla Glue. Gorilla Glue is100% water proof, not just water resistant. Gorilla Glue also foams and expands to fill wood grain as it sets. Gorilla Glue joints in wood are stronger than thewood itself. When I was in college we built a wooden airplane using the glue that is now called Gorilla Glue. It was the only glue approved for makingwooden airplanes. It is very good stuff. Gorilla glued joints will not loosen with moisture or temperature.

Again, very well done project. Thanks for posting.

Rob O says: Jul 27, 2011. 7:03 AM REPLYGee thanks for the half-hearted praise. Read steps 43 & 47.

dchall8 says: Jul 27, 2011. 8:29 AM REPLYHalf-hearted? You got two "amazings" and a 2 1/2 unsolicited hints for you to use next time or for people coming along after you to take advantageof. You have done ALL the heavy lifting on this "amazing" project.

I would discourage you from skinning it with aluminum. The aluminum would become a dew trap and guarantee the wood inside would rot. Theepoxy outer covering is probably good. I'm not sure if wood lasts longer being allowed to breathe or being fully enclosed in plastic. Years ago I useda polyurethane covering on another wooden project, but eventually it delaminated to allow moisture in. Hopefully they have advanced the technologywith the epoxy.

Here is a link to the National Woodie Club . There is a lot to know about wooden vehicle construction. If someone wants to learn more, the link is agood place to start. Maybe someone will do an Instructable on building a wooden car from scratch.

Rob O says: Jul 27, 2011. 8:50 AM REPLYYou are remarkable.

CatTrampoline says: Jul 27, 2011. 8:48 AM REPLYI am in awe! If I start now, I may get one of these finished in time to take hypothetical future grandkids camping in style and comfort.

abadfart says: Jul 26, 2011. 11:09 PM REPLYvery nice i've been looking for something like this but with bigger tires so i could pull it behind a jeep

Rob O says: Jul 27, 2011. 6:49 AM REPLYCheck out the builder's forum. There are a lot of folks who make versions that are designed for serious off-roading. Bigger tires, steel frames, etc.

http://www.instructables.com/member/oldhondarider/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments

http://www.instructables.com/member/oldhondarider/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=comments


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ilpug says: Jul 26, 2011. 8:10 PM REPLYpretty amazing. wish i had the space, time, and money to do this. how much did it cost in total?

The nerdling says: Jul 26, 2011. 4:37 PM REPLYwant to make one for my longboard

rimar2000 says: Jul 26, 2011. 2:17 PM REPLYVery good work!!

alanuevo says: Jul 26, 2011. 12:38 PM REPLYi've been wanting to make one of these for a long time. fantastic job. maybe one day i'll get to building mine.

pbergeronronronron says: Jul 26, 2011. 11:43 AM REPLYjust make shure your wife doesnt plug in her hair dryer with the heat option on! it will blow your breakers if anything else is on it

devonrumrill says: Jul 26, 2011. 11:19 AM REPLYThis is rad. Thanks for the inspiration!

Hvysteel says: Jul 26, 2011. 9:59 AM REPLYVery nice! Someday I hope to build one. If you don't mind, here's a link to a forum that has a lot of info to look at for anyone who wants to build a teardrop.

http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/

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