Travel Companion

InsIders’ guIde To

MarrakeChWe navigate marrakech through the

recommendations of outthere contributors and others who know and love it.

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uwern & Martin

Marrakech is a city of stark contrasts: chaotic and relaxing; medieval and modern; overwhelming and minimalist, all at the same time. But whether you visit to amble through the sun-kissed souks, fending off vendors and calling on all your zen to keep your cool; or to lounge poolside, thirst-trapping your green-eyed Instagram followers at one of the many, palatial five-plus star hotels; or to browse through avant-garde haute couture in Guéliz, you’re in for a treat. Despite the potential of sensorial overload, we guarantee that you’ll want to return. And you won’t be the first; for centuries, Marrakech has been at a cultural crossroads, attracting the best of the East and West to sample its spirit, and with that comes its natural appreciation for the different and diverse.

In Marrakech, you just have to be in the know: which lane to turn into to find what you’re looking for, and which will lead you right back to touristy Jemaa el-Fnaa. You’ll have to know where to look to discover the gems hiding in plain sight and which of its many ornate doors to open to reveal a fantasy world of unimaginable beauty in its riads, old monuments and stores, that will stun even the most ardent of shopaholics.

For what on paper is a conservative, muslim city, Marrakech is vibrant and diverse. It has an acclaimed international music scene, an explosion of new wave, concept gastronomy, not to mention cutting edge art, culture and creativity; all of which are helping to reinterpret Marrakech into the sophisticated, aesthetically developed, tastemaking destination we found it to be.

We enjoyed meeting its OutThere people, like Karim Tassi, Morocco’s man of the moment in fashion. Our foodies delighted in discovering what’s new in gastronomy. Our snap-happy correspondents took so many pictures that it made it almost impossible to edit. Our storytellers uncovered what it is about the Atlas Mountains that the locals love so much and tell tales of a world behind closed doors; including showcasing the ‘peaceful paradise’ that is the uber-exclusive Amanjena resort, in a unique partnership with one of the world’s leading luxury hotel brands. Marrakech is one of the most luxurious and experiential destinations we’ve had the pleasure of discovering. In other words, it is very much OutThere.

Mrehba

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MedinaThe very heart of the red city. Within its walls lie numerous OutThere secrets just waiting to be discovered: ravishing riads, sultry souks, old palaces with mosaic-covered floors and walls, hot hammams, antique shops, mouth-watering eateries and boundless exoticism that will have you begging to return, even after a long, chaotic day of exploring. At the centre of it all is the main square Jemaa el-Fnaa, a spot that sums up everything about Marrakech (and Morocco even) all in one place. Here it seems like nothing has changed for centuries. It’s a photographer’s dream, as OutThere Creative Director, Martin Perry and fashion photographer David Edwards discovered to their delight. You’ll see their amazing photography throughout this Marrakech special. It is also where Moroccan food expert John Gregory-Smith found a whole new side to the cuisine and where Agustin Cruz’s tale of exploring the city for the first time is set.

Jardin Majorelle Every OutThere traveller

to Marrakech must make a pilgrimage to the

beautiful house and gardens that the city’s

most famous ex pat, French fashion

designer, Yves Saint Laurent used to call his

home and playground.

kasbahTo the south, but still

within the medina, is a further historical,

walled enclosure known as the royal kasbah,

where the king’s official palace is located. It’s a

serene and picturesque quarter, with its own

markets and places to eat and stay, like the

beautiful La Sultana.

ourika Valley Said to be the source of

all of Marrakech’s power, the Ourika is the

gateway to the mighty Atlas mountains. This is

a must-visit daytrip to understand where

Marrakech as a city came from and the

history and culture of its indigenous Berbers.

guelizModern Marrakech, the

polar opposite to the Medina – a place where

all that is new, up and coming and creative

about the city calls home. Here, you’ll find

contemporary art galleries and fashion

ateliers – or even a bit of both together – like the

showroom of fashion designer Karim Tassi.

outer MarrakechIn a concentric ring

outside the Medina, you’ll find some of the

city’s most opulent resorts and hideaways,

including Amanjena, the location of our main

fashion shoot and the inspiration for this

entire issue.

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al Fassia9 Bis, Zone Touristique de L’Aguedal, Km 2 Route de L’Ourikawww.alfassia.comThis stalwart of Moroccan cuisine (and hospitality) has been going 30 years. There’s a branch in the new city at Boulevard Zerktouni, but if you want some real atmosphere, head out to Aguedal.

al Maqam artist residenceDouar Lamgassenwww.almaqam.netThe tagines here are spectacular but you cannot come to Marrakech and not try their ginger-lemon dish – delicious! amal CentreRue Allal Ben Ahmed amalnonprofit.orgFantastic women’s charity and centre set up to help marginalised women of the city, they also run a mean restaurant, especially if tagine and cous cous are your thing. And if you like what you eat, join their cooking and baking classes. It’s all for a great cause too.

Beldi Country ClubKm 6 Route du Barrage www.beldicountryclub.comThe homemade bread here is to die for.

BladnaKm 6 Route d’OurikaA really local place that serves up good Moroccan food. Don’t expect the frills of a luxury hotel, you’re not going to get it here. But as soon as you arrive you’ll see the families and locals queueing for tables – a tell-tale sign that this place is fantastic.

Chez Mado 22 Rue Moulay Ali While Marrakech is nowhere near the sea and the idea of raw seafood may scare you, get brave because it is exquisite here at this French gastro-outpost.

Food

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Chez Lamine29 Rue Ibn AïchaThe dapper Mustafa is a legend among the owners of food stalls in the Medina, even they’ll go here after they close. Located in the so-called Mechoui Alley behind The Alhambra restaurant in Jemaa el-Fnaa, you’ll find this laid-back place serving up local delicious local treats that you’ll dream of long after you’ve left town.

Cafe Clock224 Derb Chtouka www.cafeclock.comNew meets old in this snazzy Kasbah hangout. It’s far more Parisien bistro than tagine, featuring rotating artwork on the walls and a relaxed, international vibe. Ask for a table on the roof, it’s a romantic setting. During the weekends, especially in the afternoons, rumour has it that you’ll find groups of OutThere expats and locals hanging out here and catching up on the local ‘who got with who’ gossip over great coffee. Try the camel burger.

Le grande Cafe de la Poste Avenue Imam Malikwww.en.grandcafedelaposte.restaurantServing as a typical cafe, this is an amazing heritage space in the modern new town and since 1925 has been the coffee stop for the post office that was once housed here. It’s a gorgeous atmosphere to grab a cappuccino or a light lunch, but it’s not a Starbucks and sadly, you won’t be able to sit forever, well not after 1pm at least.

Les Terrasses de l’alhambraJemaa el-Fnaa squareIt’s rather touristy, but if you’re a first-timer to Marrakech and find the Medina intimidating, head here to find your feet. It’s the perfect first-night place – set alongside its riad – and it’ll help you get into the scene. You won’t be on your own as others are probably doing exactly the same.

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Jardin Majorelle Rue Yves Saint Laurentwww.jardinmajorelle.comMarrakech’s fashion posterboy’s old home, and a magnet for OutThere travellers from around the world. All this aside, it is simply stunning and is also home to a Berber Museum. Two culture wins for the price of one – what’s not to love?

Photographer’s gallery46 Rue Souk Ahal Fassiwww.maisondelaphotographie.maDon’t let any street urchin tell you that this place is closed and lead you astray. It is a stunning gallery with an amazing rooftop.

Marrakech International Film Festivalwww.festivalmarrakech.infoFabulous international moving image festival, this year taken over by the former director of Berlinale. We expect fireworks.

oasis Festivalwww.theoasisfest.com Its motto, “Dance Somewhere Different” perfectly describes this unique cultural experience, a juxtaposition with ancient Marrakech. This landmark music festival showcases the finest international talent and shines a spotlight on North Africa’s very own music, arts and culture.

YsL MuseumRue Yves Saintt Laurent www.museeyslmarrakech.comThis stunning architectural feat designed by a partner-and-partner team of haute architects is everything a fashionista visiting Marrakech could ever want.

david Bloch gallery8 bis, Rue des Vieux Marrakechis www.davidblochgallery.comThis futuristic gallery showcases Moroccan artists and international names side by side, with ever changing exhibitions.

arts and Culture

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shopping

33 rue Majorelle33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent www.facebook.com/33RueMajorelleMorocco’s answer to a concept store; and we love it. Don’t expect Paris, London or New York here of course, but it has enough items to tempt you into opening your wallet, primarily showcasing the work of local artists, and soon-to-be-big designers. It’s a must-see after a visit to the Jardin Majorelle. Browsing is an excursion, but take it from us, buying is much more fun.

atika34 Rue de la LibertéShoes glorious shoes. You’ll revel in rows and rows of luxurious leather loafers here, in every colour you can think of. We love the smell of this place! Jardin Majorelle blue, Medina pink – whatever you want, they’ll most definitely have or will even put on order. It’s more expensive than the bargains acquired from hours of haggling in the Medina, but you’ll get what you pay for.

Chabi Chic 322 Quartier industriel Sidi Ghanem www.chabi-chic.com We just loved the name. Chabi chic is an interior design company that has seen great success. So much so, they’ve created a line of accessories for the home, kitchen and bathroom with a touch of Moroccan in everything. From essential oils, to kitchen utensils, your home (or a home of a friend) could soon look like one of Marrakech’s top boutique, designer riads.

L’art du Bain13 Souk el Labadine Have you spent days in the hammam and know you’re going to miss your favourite masseur? Well, take a fragrant souvenir home with you – the savon noir – the thick black soap you’ve become accustomed to. This deliciou-smelling shop is our favourite for gifts and a real crowd pleaser.

Marrakech Personal shopperwww.marrakechpersonalshopper.comIf it all gets too much for you, enlist the help of El Mehdi Mehdioui and his team of personal shoppers, who will listen to your brief and guide you through the Medina’s souks and boutiques to help you find what you’re looking for. You can also do shopping tours with them and if you want, get up close and personal with the artisans behind the work. The company is licensed by The Moroccan Tourism Ministry, Craft and Social Economy. They won’t do any haggling for you though, they wouldn’t want to take away any of the fun, after all.

The Moroccans natural skincare Riad Jardin Secret www.themoroccans.ma Blending age-old traditions and modern needs, Mouad and Mohcyn, the founders of this skincare brand have developed an organic, vegetable and mineral based skin-care system. Ingredients are local, you’ll find plenty of rose, prickly pear seed, honey and orange blosson in their eco-friendly range of potions.

Max & Jan14 Rue Amsefah www.maxandjan.ma What do you wear by the pool at the Amanjena or La Mamounia? Max et Jan of course! Their seasonal ranges of resortwear and colourful, chic clothing and accessories will make you stand out and be the envy of all the other guests at your five-star digs.

V. BarkowskiArset Aouzal 170 www.valeriebarkowski.com Valérie is a Belgian designer who spent decades honing her skill before opening Dar Kawa, an infamous riad in Morocco. Her interiors showroom is Marrakech’s answer to Restoration Hardware and is a must visit if you want to take home a one-off. P

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experiences

atlas Mountains and ourika Valley Get out on the open road into the hills, learn about Berber culture and marvel at the magnificence of the varied landscapes. Just an hour’s drive from Marrakech, the mountains are a whole different world.

Ben Youssef Madrasa Rue AssouelThe old Islamic University built in the 16th century that is a must-visit in Marrakech. We spent half a day inside what is quite a small space, of spellbinding mosaics and intricately decorated cloisters. Our hot tip is to go first thing in the morning or just before it closes for those shots where it looks like you’ve got the place to yourself.

Ciel d’afriquewww.cieldafrique.infoDaniel Penet is CFO – Chief Flying Officer – of this spellbinding experience that takes you up in a hot-air balloon over this ancient land. It makes for an unforgettable experience in Marrakech, promising beautiful views (weather permitting) of the desert, Berber oases, mountains and gorges and a unique sensation in the azure Moroccan sky. For the ultimate treat, you could try a VIP, personal tour.

hammam de la rose130 Dar El Bachawww.hammamdelarose.comIf a public hammam isn’t your thing, then opt for this luxury spa-like experience in the medina that still uses the age old traditions of bathe and rub, but in a more tourist-friendly setting and atmosphere.

The MellahIt’s easy to be wowed by the mountains of rainbow coloured spices in Spice Square, but to get authentic and watch how the old housewives do it, head to the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, for a slice of real market life. Skip this if you’re vegetarian. Just saying. P

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“as we descended from the charming speakeasy in gion, a quintessentially filmic, kyoto scene unfurled. Through the mist and drizzle on the lantern-lit, cobbled streets, a lone, demure geisha in a beautiful kimono tottered home to her okiya from a gig. I’m told it’s not often that a foreigner sees a geisha on her own – when she’s ac-companied by her minder, it’s for the benefit of tourists. she walks off into the night as many have done before her over 400 years.”

uwern Jong, editor-in-Chief Find out more about Kyoto and many other experiential journeys for men of distinction by subscribing to OutThere, purchasing a back-issue or downloading them to your mobile device.

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Experiential journeys for men of distinction

Contributors

Bruce Clearfield, Bryan herb,

daniel Thomas, douglas Mahan,

eric Wagner, Jerry Murphy, Joel Cabrera,

Laura silverman, Martin Perry,

Matthew Charles, Max schroeder,

Michael serafini, Meg Cale, ralphi

rosario, rayme gorniak, robert Mahan, stevie hanley,

uwern Jong

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