Influence of Styling Products Hair conditioners have an acidic pH value that helps to close the...
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Transcript of Influence of Styling Products Hair conditioners have an acidic pH value that helps to close the...
Influence of Styling Products
Hair conditioners have an acidic pH value that
helps to close the cuticles.
In addition, most conditioners include caring
ingredients that penetrate the cuticle layer,
replacing lost moisture and helping temporarily to
restructure damaged areas, for example
ingredients such as panthenol.
Influence of Styling Products
Conditioning encourages the re-establishment of
hydrogen bonds in the hair as moisture content is
improved.
This has the added benefit of improving strength & hold.
The majority of styling products contain similar care
ingredients and as such are multi-featured, able to style,
condition and protect.
Influence of Styling Products
As with specific care products, style, definition and care
products are usually designed and created with a specific
purpose in mind; hence some products will include a UV
in order to protect from sunlight, whilst others may have a
cream-based formula that nourishes the hair, providing
easy application and distribution.
Because of this, some products can be combined in
order to benefit from a wider range of features.
Influence of Styling Products
Other examples include the ingredient dimethicone, a silicon-
based oil that helps to smooth hair down, reducing friction and
preventing undue wear on the surface cuticle layer.
Damaged hair is often negatively charged and this can
lead to ‘fly-away hair', a term used to describe the
way hair refuses to lie down due to static charge.
Influence of Styling Products
Mousse products in particular are ideal to counteract this effect.
They are positively charged, which helps to neutralize the static
effect, resulting in more controllable hair.
Mousse is also very light and easily distributed, hence
is perfect for fine hair.
Select product info for more information on product
groups, their composition, effect and action on the hair.
Influence of Styling Products
In general finish products are not designed to penetrate the cuticle
layer they are surface acting, influencing the hair by coating
individual hair shafts and ‘welding' them together.
Finish products that contain care properties, particularly
moisturizing benefits, are designed to partially penetrate the
cuticle and therefore help to rehydrate the inner cortex.
What Creates Texture
Texture and definition in hair is closely
related to how light interacts with hair and is
perceived by the eye.
Straight hair in good condition looks smooth
and sleek, whereas straight hair in bad
condition can appear dull and lifeless.
What Create Texture
This is due to the condition of the cuticle layer.
When the cuticle is closed and intact, light is
directly reflected back to the eye; when the cuticle
is open and damaged the same light is dispersed
by the multiple angles and facets of the open
cuticle scales.
A similar effect can be seen when looking at the
surface of the sea in still and then choppy waters.
What Create Texture
The texture effect is multiplied when hair is wavy, curly or styled.
Styling products to a greater or lesser degree hold the hair
together at various angles, thus creating different reflective
surfaces.
In addition, ingredients added to products can
help enhance texture with a matt or gloss finish.
Light oils in particular create a high gloss effect, whilst an opaque
cream or wax creates a deliberate matt result.
What Creates Volume
Hold is an essential part of volume.
Volume is created to a lesser or greater
degree by holding the hair away from the
scalp, thus making hair appear fuller.
What Creates Volume
Generating more space in between individual
hair strands also creates volume.
Naturally wavy or curly hair already has this
attribute built in.
What Creates Volume
There are many ways that finish products
can support volume, for example wax has a
sticky property that enables individual hair
strands to be moulded into shape with the
fingers.
What Creates Volume
Mousse is often used prior to blow-drying with a round
brush in order to lock in volume; this is normally followed
by the application of a hairspray to create added protection
and hold.
Styling rollers may be used in combination with a
setting lotion, to create a longer-lasting curl or wave.
The angle at which the roller is wound will determine how
much volume is built in.
What Creates Hold
Hold describes the strength of hair and its
ability to stay in a particular shape or form.
Extreme hold may be achieved using a gel or
hairspray (Super or Extreme hold).
These can set hard, however more natural
results are achieved with creams, mousses
or waxes.
What Creates Hold
All style, definition and finish products
achieve hold through either one or both of
the following methods: seam welds or spot
welds.
However, one method will be more
prevalent.
What Creates Hold
Seam welds are bonds created by holding
hair shafts side by side.
In doing so they create a structure that can
independently hold the hair away from the
scalp.
Typically these are found in mousse, gel and
wax.
What Creates Hold
Spot welds occur where hairs cross over
each other to create a supporting structure
that adheres the shafts at these points of
contact.
Hairspray is the most obvious example of
this hold type, creating a more natural
movement where required.
Styling Products and Damage
It is virtually impossible to damage hair directly
using styling, definition and finish products,
however the results of overuse or neglect may
eventually lead to damage.
Styling Products and Damage
For example, without regular washing a hairspray or wax-based product
will build up on the hair and may eventually become very hard, creating
wear across adjacent hair shafts and preventing moisture from
revitalizing the hair.
In addition, product accumulation may block the
opening to the hair follicles, preventing sebum from
travelling the length of the hair shaft.
The scalp in this condition is a common cause of pityriasis steatoides..
Styling Products and Damage
Cheap styling products may start to accumulate
even when the hair is regularly shampooed; in this
instance a specialist shampoo may be required to
completely remove all traces.
..
Film Formers
Alcohol-based Film Formers
These products contain a combination of alcohol and film
formers.
Film formers are long-chain molecules, which
form a thin film on the surface of the hair,
strengthening the hair from the outside.
Film formers are dissolved in a solvent, often alcohol.
The application of film formers onto the hair selectively cross-links the
hair, creating temporary hold.
Film Formers
The alcohol content creates a fast-drying styling product, since alcohol
evaporates much faster than water.
A fine film surrounds the length of the hair and seals it, which creates
protection from external elements.
This can include protection from sunlight, heat
and humidity, which helps ensure long-lasting
hold and volume.
Added ingredients, such as a UV filter, can increase performance
Film Formers
Hairspray
Hairspray can be dispensed either by aerosol or
non-aerosol pump spray. In both cases this
product comes in a variety of strengths from
medium to extra strong hold.
Film Formers
Hairspray
An aerosol hairspray achieves a fine and even
distribution through a micro-fine mist, which is
possible due to the propellant component
This ensures a consistent release of product for
the majority of the container lifespan.
Film Formers
Hairspray
Higher quality hairsprays contain amphomers.
These produce a netlike cover which forms over
each hair shaft, giving hold and elasticity.
In contrast, conventional sprays may produce
irregular distribution.
Film Formers
Hairspray
Benefits
•Long-lasting hold - film formers last all day.
•Protects from wind, rain and sun.
Hygroscopicity - protects against humidity.
Versatile and easy to apply.
Can be used in conjunction with other hair
products.
Dries without stickiness.
No obvious wet-look residue.
•Can be brushed out easily - allowing for restyling.
Film Formers
Setting Lotion
Setting lotion is normally dispensed by a pump
spray mechanism.
The composition can be altered to achieve
varying degrees of hold.
Setting lotion stabilises the form and shape of hair
during styling; with effective setting this can result
in a hold that can last for days.
Film Formers
Setting Lotion
The composition of a setting lotion reduces the
hygroscopicity of the hair and a fine silicone film is
created over the hair surface, which smoothes
and adds shine.
Film Formers
Setting Lotion
Setting lotions are ideal for creating styles that
require long-lasting control, such as pin curls.
They can be used to great effect on sensitive,
slightly damaged hair instead of using a more
permanent form treatment.
Film Formers
Benefits
•Long-lasting hold for all hair types.
•Adds volume.
•Hair is easier to handle during styling.
•Gives hair shine.
•Anti-static effect.
•Adds care ingredient.
Film Formers
Water-based Film Formers
These are applied in the same way as alcohol-
based film formers.
As they dry they become sticky and form bonds
between the hair strands.
It is this stickiness that helps deliver the final
outcome, enabling the hair to be moulded into
place before the product dries.
Film Formers
Water-based Film Formers
When dry, a hard film keeps the style in place.
Water takes longer to evaporate than alcohol,
hence this type of product can be more flexible
during the styling process.
Film Formers
Mousse
Mousse is normally dispensed from a pressurised
container.
Ingredients vary to achieve a variety of hold
strengths, protective and caring qualities, such as
improved combability.
Film Formers
Mousse
A combination of film formers and caring agents
produces an elastic, stabilising film, preventing
the hair from becoming too rigid, yet providing a
degree of hold and volume.
Film Formers
Mousse
Shampoo and heat treatments can change the
surface of the hair by introducing a negative
charge, which results in flyaway and
unmanageable hair.
The positively charged ion-balanced system in
mousse neutralises this, reducing the static
effect..
Film Formers
Mousse
The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does
not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even
distribution of the product.
Film Formers
Mousse
The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even distribution of the product.
Benefits
Stabilizes hair without stickiness.
Easy to apply,
Non-drip application gives even coverage.
Variety of hold strengths.
Caring agents improve combability.
Gives hair a natural sheen.
Anti-static quality - manageable & easy to style.
Easy to wash and brush out.
Film Formers
Gel
Gel contains a variety of thickeners and the
viscosity of the product texturizes the hair, giving
a defined stiffness.
Gel can be used sparingly, for definition, or built
up into the hair to achieve a higher degree of
volume and hold.
Film Formers
Gel
Gel can be packaged in a variety of ways.
The use of different applicators depends on
personal preference and how the delivery of
product affects the required style, for example a
tube or pump dispenser allows more control over
amount, while a tub allows greater access.
Film Formers
Gel
Gel works by applying an adhesion between individual strands of hair.
Ingredients can be added to the gel to achieve further benefits.
Some gels contain additives to prevent the hair drying out
and aid faster drying during the styling process.
It is also possible to alter the composition to
achieve different looks, such as a wet look or high-shine finish.
Film Formers
Gel
Benefits
•Gives shape, body and strength.
•Film formers stabilize and give lasting hold.
•Can accentuate individual strands.
•Sculpts and moulds, even on porous hair.
•Coats individual hairs quickly without running
onto the scalp.
Film Formers
Styling Cream
Styling cream is usually dispensed from a tube
and contains a combination of film formers for
hold, and additives for care.
The film formers allow for easy combing and give
optimal styling, producing an elastic film which
creates hold.
Film Formers
Styling Cream
The high spreading capability of cream is due to
the molecular structure, which ensures that the
hair is coated evenly with micro-fine film.
Care ingredients give the hair shine and volume
without weighing it down, making the hair soft and
manageable.
Styling creams have less hold than gels.
Film Formers
Styling Cream
Benefits
•Easily distributed throughout hair.
• Smoothes surface of hair.
•Gives hair intensive sheen.
• Makes hair easier to style.
•Non-sticky.
•Improves suppleness, particularly on dry hair.
•Cares for dry hair or spilt ends.
•Does not make hair heavy or greasy.
•Easy to wash out.
Film Formers
Wax-based Film Formers
These aid hold by creating seam welds and, when
compared to alcohol or water-based products,
bond larger amounts of hair together. The natural
stickiness of wax bonds the hair together, creating
strength that produces an independent hold for
most hair types.
Film Formers
Wax-based Film Formers
Wax is not water-soluble and does not dry; this
helps create a flexible look that is also easy to
restyle.
Normally wax requires a shampoo to remove the
product thoroughly from hair.
If using wax regularly, occasional washing with a
specialist shampoo, is recommended.
Film Formers
Wax
Wax can be dispensed in a variety of formats,
depending on personal preference, type of wax
and what is most suitable for the desired style.
Hard wax products are often dispensed in a stick
format, whereas softer waxes are more
commonly stored in a jar.