Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd.

1 | P a g e Southeast University

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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Course Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.



CHAPTER ONE

Company Profile



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1.1. Company Profile at a glance

1. Factory : Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

2.

Factory Address

: Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048.

3.

Head Office

: Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4,

Block # F, Banani, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911,

Fax # 88-02-9870502

[email protected] / [email protected]

4. Chairman : Md. Lokman Hossain

Mobile : 01713-038619,01713-245582

5.

Managing Director

: Md. Nasir Uddin Mobile : 01713-245588


6.

Director

: Jahir Uddin Mamun

Mobile : 01713-085117


7.

Contact Person

: 1. Md. Al-Amin

General Manager, Garments

Mobile : 01713-245585


2. Roushan Zamir Rony

General Manager, Dyeing

Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593

[email protected] , [email protected]

3. Md. Masudur Rahman

General Manager, Knitting

Mobile : 01711676758

mailto:[email protected]














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[email protected]

8. Year of Establishment : 07.01.2002

9. Paid Up Capital : 40, 000, 00. 00

10. EPB Registration : 4224

11. Bank : SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED.

Foreign Exchange Branch,

Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100

Factory A/C NO: 13300009963

Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX

12. Product Mix : Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib,

2x2 rib, Plain interlock

13. Main Product : T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s

& Kid’s wear in varies kinds of knit fabric.

1.2. Office Staff A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers &

Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 200 people are

working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.

1.3. Quality Policy

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is totally committed to provide quality products that always

meet the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on-

time delivery of shipments. To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. provides

all the necessary resources to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and

experienced manpower to take proper care of customer requirements. Sadma Fashion

Wear Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared responsibility of its entire staff. The




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company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work to the company’s work

practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory requirements and are

determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct,

social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance

Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company’s

goal.

1.4. Welfare Facilities

Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale,

job satisfaction & attendance.

Canteen facilities.

Subsidized lunch for staff.

Free snacks for workers.

Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.

Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic.

Cultural function.

Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.

Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.

A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting

arrangement.

Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law.

1.5. Compliance

Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law’s, Human rights, Social

compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of

Government.

1.6. Recruitment policy

No child labor in this factory.

No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure.

There is no force labor.



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1.7. Different Departments

Knitting

Dyeing

Finishing

Garments

Utility

Maintenance

Quality Assurance

Planning

Research & Development

Admin

HR & Compliance

1.8. Present Buyers

C & A (Germany)

Zellers (Canada)

George (U.K)

Sears (Canada)

Sainsbury (U.K)

Diplomat Fashion (U.S.A)

Matalan (U.K)

Artextyl (U.S.A / France)

S F G (Australia)

Xios (U.S.A)

Vayla (U.S.A)

Walmart (U.S.A)

Emporio Junior(Italy)

Pierre Cardin (Italy)

Carrefour Import Sas (France)


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1.9. Certification

ISO 9001:2008, WRAP.

Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA)



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1.10. Production Capacity

Production Capacity Knitting : 12000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing : 8000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Garments : 20000 Pcs. Per Day

Production lead time : 45-90 Days

1.11. Production Area

Knitting space : 5000 sq. feet

Dyeing space : 34000 sq. feet

Finishing Goods & Store : 5500 sq. feet 2nd Floor : 5500 sq. feet

3rd Floor : 6500 sq. feet

4th Floor : 6500 sq. feet

5th Floor : 6500 sq. feet 6th Floor : 6500 sq. feet

Other space

Total space

: 2000 sq. feet

: 77000 sq. feet



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1.12. Man power Management

Organogram of Knitting section

General Manager

Production Manager

Store In charge Supervisor Quality In charge

Operator

Helper



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Organogram of Dyeing & Finishing section

GM

DGM

PM

SPO Batch In

ccharge

Finishing In

charge

Lab In

charge

PO

APO

Supervisor

Sewing man

Turning m/c

Operator

Sewing man

Squeeze

Operator

Lab

Technician

Q.C.

Technician

Operator Helper Dryer

Operator

Helper

Helper

Compactor

Operator



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Factory Building



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CHAPTER TWO

Knitting Section



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2.1. Process Definition

Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts.

Knitting consists of consecutive loops, called stitch. As each row progresses, a new loop is

pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be

passed through them. This process eventually results in final product, often a garment.

2.2. Raw Materials for Knitting

1. Yarn

2. Lycra

2.3. Source of Raw Material

- Saiham cotton mills ltd.

- Shamsuddin spinning

- Matam spinning

- A T &T spinning

- N.Z. spinning

- PHP spinning

- Zubayer spinning

- Square Yarns ltd.

- Maksons spinning

- Rising spinning

- Anwar Mannan Textile

- J.K. spinning

- The Delta spinning

- R.K. spinning

- Jamuna spinning

- Shiria spinning

- Tara spinning

- Karim spinning

- Paradise spinning

- Out pace spinning

- Silver line composite

- GPI Textiles, India

- BKM, Indonesia

- Hysoung, Vietnum etc.



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2.4. Classification of Knitting section

Knitting section is divided into two parts-

1. Circular knitting section.

2. Fabric inspection section.

2.4.1. Circular Knitting section

There are two types of machines available in this area-

1. Single jersey and

2. Double jersey.

2.4.2. Machine description of circular Knitting section

SL. No. Machine Brand Origin Machine Diameter

Gauge Feeder Quantity

1 S/J Runshan China 20” 24 60 3 set



4 S/J Runshan Chine 19” 24 57 2 set

5 S/J Runshan Chine 21” 24 63 2 set

6 D/J Fukahama Taiwan 40” 18 84 1 set

7 S/J Fukahama Taiwan 26” 24 78 1 set

8 S/J Zentex Singapore 30” 24 90 1 set



11 S/J Masa Taiwan 34” 20 102 1 set


13 S/J Lisky Taiwan 21” 24 63 1 set





18 S/J Boshuo China 40” 24 120 1 set


20 D/J Lisky Taiwan 40” 24 84 1 set




24 S/J Yong cheng Taiwan 26” 24 78 2 set



27 S/J Zentex Singapore 20” 24 60 2 set

28 S/J Bushuo China 25” 24 74 1 set



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2.5. Fabric Inspection section

There is one machine in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given

below:

Machine name Perfect fabric check machine

Manufacturer Seven Star Engineering

Country Bangladesh

Year of manufacturing 2008

2.6. Production Process

2.6.1. Process Flow chart of Knitting in Sadma

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Machine selection

Setting the machine for the specific design

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices

Knitting



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Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

2.6.2. Description of Production Process

In every mill, a sequence is maintained in production processing. It is also followed in this

mill. The process sequences are in list below:

1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as

consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.

2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the

production will be running.

3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision

about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity,

maintenance complexity, etc.

4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and

grey GSM for required final GSM.

5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about

finishing task due time.

6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he

thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty.

Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in

spot.

7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing

section.



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0

/

ourse /

C

o. o

PM

Cours

2.7. Production Parameter

1. Machine Diameter

2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute)

3. No. of feeds or feeders in use

4. Machine Gauge

5. Count of yarn

6. Required time (M/C running time)

7. Machine running efficiency

2.8. Relationship between Knitting Parameters

1. GSM increase with the increase of stitch length.

2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.

3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.

4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.

5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.

6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.

7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.

2.9. Production Calculation

A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm)

3527.80 Yarn count

B. Production/shift in meter

Course / min .

R

C. Fabric width in meter

e cm

N

f Feeder 60 8

cm 1

0

Efficiency

Total no. of wales Wales / cm 100

Total no. of Needles used in k nitting

Wales / cm 100



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2.10. Considerable Points to produce knitted fabric

When buyers order for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality.

Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These includes-

- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

- Finished G.S.M.

- Yarn count.

- Types of yarn (combed or carded).

- Diameter of the fabric.

- Stitch length.

- Color depth.

2.11. G S M

It is a technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.

Points considered while setting grey GSM:

- Level

- Enzyme Color

- Suited or non- suited

Changing of GSM:

- Major control by VDQ pulley.

- Minor control by stitch length adjustment.

- Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley

moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. will decrease. And in the reverse

direction G.S.M will increase.

2.12. Factors should change in case of Fabric Design

- Cam setting

- Set of needle

- Size of loop shape

2.13. Effect of Stitch length on color depth

If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric

with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted

then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller.



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2.14. Responsibilities of a Production Officer

Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc.

implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production.

Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs.

Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste

management.

Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc. and take corrective action for any shortfall.

Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and

when required in procedure.

Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and

identification of training needs.

2.15. Methods of Increasing Production

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –

1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately

production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn

because of this high speed.

2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the

circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a

time.

3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production .

So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.

4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving

system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric

fault detector.

5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply

through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. C) Using yarn feed control

device.

2.16. Faults and Their Causes in Knitting

1. Hole

Causes:



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• Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

• During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

• If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.

• Badly knot or splicing.

• Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:

• Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

• Use proper count of yarn.

• Correctly set of yarn feeder.

• Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle Mark

Causes:

• When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

• If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.

Remedies:

• Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark

Causes:

• When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker

mark comes.

• If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Remedies:

• Sinker should be changed

4. Star

Causes:



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• Yarn tension variation during production.

• Buckling of the needle latch.

• Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

• Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

• Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches

Causes:

• Defective needle.

• If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.

• Take-down mechanism too loose.

• Insufficient yarn tension.

• Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

• Needle should be straight & well.

• Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.

• Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.

• Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain

Causes:

• When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:

• Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

• Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.



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7. Rust stain

Causes:

• If any rust on the machine parts.

Remedies:

• If any rust on the machine parts then fix it.

• Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole

Causes:

• Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

• Change the needle.

9. Cloth fall- out

Causes:

• Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty

needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the

following needles.

Remedies:

• Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

10. Fly dust:

Causes:

• In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist

as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit

fabric production.

Remedies:

• Blowing air for cleaning the different parts after a certain period of time.

• By cleaning the floor continuously.



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• By using suction system for cleaning too much lint on the floor.

• Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

11. Yarn contamination

Causes:

• If yarn contains foreign matters then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

• If lot or count mixing occurs.

Remedies:

• By avoiding lot & count mixing.

• Fault less spinning.

12. Yarn Faults:

• Neps.

• Slubs.

• Yarn count variations.

• Thick/Thin place in yarn.

• Hairiness.

• Dead Fiber.

2.17. Fabric Inspection system

Before batching the fabric is required to check. In this section fabric is check out. In this industry

4-point system is used for inspection. By using this system-

The defects are identified in the roll and marked by red arrows

Individually the length of defect is measured and record

Then measure penalty point

2.18. Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count

S/J without lycra –



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Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count

110 - 120 40s – 36 s

120 - 130 36s – 32s

130 - 140 32s – 28s

140 - 150 28s

150 - 160 26s

170 - 210 24s

Rib without lycra –


180 - 190 36s – 32s

190 - 200 30s

200 - 215 28s

215 - 230 26s

230 - 250 24s

250 - 300 24s

Interlock without lycra –


200 - 220 34s

220 - 230 32s

230 - 250 30s

250 - 300 26s

Lacoste without lycra –


180 - 190 30s

190 - 210 28s

210 - 230 26s

230 – 250 26s

40D Lycra Rib –



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230 - 240 32s 240 - 250 30s 250 - 280 26s 280 - 300 24s

40D Lycra S/J –


180 - 190 34s

190 - 210 32s

210 - 220 30s

220 – 240 28s

240 - 250 26s

2.19. Different parts of Knitting Machine

Sl. No. Name of the Parts Function

01 Creel All the side of machine, it holds the yarn package

02 Tube Yarn is drawn through this for security and avoiding mixing

waste.

03 Positive feeder Wind the yarn from package and send to needle for reducing

tension

04 Toothed belt All the feeders are driven by it.

05 VDQ pulley Change the stitch length .So the G.S.M is maintained.

06 Thread guide Supply yarn to needle from very short distance.

07 Needle Main part of the machine, it helps to form loop.

08 Needle bed It can be cylinder or dial which holds the needle

09 Cam Direct the needle, sinker to form different kinds of loops.

10 Needle detector It can detect the needle breakage, jumping etc.

11 Take up roller Draw the formed fabric at downwards.

12 Pressure roller Press the fabric with take up



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roller.

13 Batch roller Wind the fabric into its surface to form roll.

14 Blower Removes the dirts, flocks from the machine

15 Air nozzle Clean the needle, sinker trick plate etc.

16 Lubricating parts Lubricate the cam, sinker, needle and other gearings

2.20. Images of Machines and Machine parts

Circular Knitting Machine

Dust remover fan Meter



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VDQ Pulley Cam

Positive Feeder Yarn guide

Needle Sinker



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Take up roller Creel

Fabric Inspection Machine

2.21. Quality Assurance

After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by

the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing.

Some points are needed to maintain for higher Quality fabric. These are-

1) Brought good quality yarn.

2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.

3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.



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4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.

5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.

Grading Procedure-

a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect. b)

Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect. c)

Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect. d)

Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.

e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.

Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barrie, crack marks, are judgment defects.

Equipment used for measuring quality-

1) Inspection m/c.

2) Electronic balance

3) GSM cutter.

4) Measuring tape.

5) Scissors.

6) Indication sticker.



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2.22. Design Analysis


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2.23. Sample Representation

Single jersey

Rib

Interlock

Single lacoste



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2.24. Layout Plan of Knitting Floor

1 2 3

6

8 8 8

8 8 8

9

1= GM Office; 2= PM office; 3= PO & other staffs; 4= Inspection machine; 5= Weighting M/C;

6= Compressor; 7= Table; 8= Circular knitting m/c; 9= Store; 10= Washroom



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CHAPTER THREE

Batching Section



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3.1. Batching

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular

lot of a Particular order.

Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.

Batch section’s in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing Manager. Sometime

Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.

3.2. Batch Process Follow-Up

Grey Fabric Inspection

Batching

Fabric Turning

Stitch the fabric

Storing for dyeing

3.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection

a. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done

on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.

b. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points

made to insure proper grading.

c. All fabric must meet specifications.

d. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the

piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and

upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.

e. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the

lower quality.

f. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of

one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2

inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.



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g. Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in

the grading of fabric.

h. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.

i. All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.

j. Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more

than 2 inches.

k. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All

defects will be counted in tubular goods.

3.4. Object of Batching

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.

Turn the grey fabric if require.

To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-

a) Order sheet (Received from buyer)

b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

c) M/C capacity

d) M/C available

e) Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)

f) Emergency

To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

3.5. Proper Batching Criteria

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.

To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.

To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.

To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

3.6. Machine in Batch Section

No. of Machine : 01

Machine Name : Air turning m/c

Origin : Bangladesh



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CHAPTER FOUR

Lab Dip Section



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4.1. Lab Dip Development

Lab Dip Development means the sample is to be dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar

shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing

planning is done.

4.2. Objective of Lab Lip Development

The main objectives of lab dip are as follows-

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box.

To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.

Finally approved Lab Dip(Grade: A B C)

4.3. Development of Lab Dip in Sadma

Receiving standard swatch

Spectrophotometer reading

Recipe start up software

Start up recipe given

Manual dispersion (pipetting)

Pot dyeing

Unload



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Normal wash

Acid wash

Hot wash

Cold wash

Drying

4.4. Preparation and Storage of Stock Dyes and Chemicals

Preparation of Concentration of stock dye solution -

Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily

use.

Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical solution -

Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.

4.5. Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab

The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -

Amount of dye soln

(ml) =



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Example –

In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm

Shade % = 2%

[ If used 0. 5 % stock soln

of dyes ] then ,

Amount of dye soln

(ml) = = 20 ml .

The amount of chemical soln

(ml) is measured as follow -

Amount of chemical soln

(ml) =

Example –

In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm

Salt = 20 g/l

M: L = 1 : 10

[ If taken 25 % stock soln

of salt ] then ,

Amount of chemical soln

(ml) = = 4 ml

4.6. Color Measurement of Standard sample

Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible.

Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. Color

measurement can be done by two methods –

Manual Method: In manual method, the standard sample’s color is measured by comparing it

with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with

which the color of the standard matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade



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matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it

but person must be needed gather experience about color matching.

Instrumental method: The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to

do the work of color measurement. “Spectrophotometer” (Data color) interfaced with a PC is

used for shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of

light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under

spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within

the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is

carried out for the purpose of shade matching.

4.7. Procedure of Lab Dip (For 100% cotton Fabric)

1) Fabric weight is measured by electric balance.

2) Calculate the recipe.

3) Keep the fabric in the pot.

4) Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot

by pipeting .

5) Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes

being used.

Program – 1: For light shade

Fixed temp. = 600° C

Time = 60 min.

Program – 2: For dark shade

Fixed temp. = 800° C

Time = 60 min.

6) After finished the dyeing time then cold wash is done for two times.

7) Acid wash for neutralization.

8) Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950° C.

9) Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.



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CHAPTER FIVE

Dyeing & Finishing Section



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5.1. Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or

garment form by treatment with a dye.

5.1.1. Raw Materials For Dyeing

The raw materials used in dyeing are-

1. Grey Fabric: Single jersey, Interlock, Lacoste, Rib, Lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others.

2. Dyes and Chemicals.

5.1.2. Machine Description of Dyeing & Finishing Section

Sl No Description Capacity No. of M/C

Brand Origin

1 High pressure Dyeing M/C

1050 Kg 1 Delmenler Turkey

2 Atmospheric soft flow Dyeing M/C

750 Kg 1 Fongs China






600 Kg 1 Woo yang Korea


350 Kg 1 Woo yang Korea

7 High pressure sample Dyeing M/C

30 Kg 1 Son-tech China

8 Sample Dyeing M/C 100 Kg 1 Classic Bangladesh



11 Stenter 10-12 Ton

2 Ehwha Glotech

Korea

12 Compactor with pin chain

10 Ton 1 Bianco Italy

13 Slitting 12 Ton 1 Bianco Italy

14 Back sewing 6 Ton 1 China

15 Squeezer 8 Ton 2 Dongnam Korea

16 Tensionless Dryer M/C

8 Ton 1 Alkan Turkey



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17 Compactor 8 Ton 1 Fabcon U S A

18 Calender 8 Ton 1 Dongnam Korea

19 Lab M/C 2 Son-tech China

20 Grey inspection M/C 3 Ton 1 Glory China

21 Industrial washing M/C

50 Kg 1 Glory China

22 Tumble Dryer 150 2 Glory China

23 Hydro Extractor 50 1 Glory China

24 Gas Generator 480 KW 1 MWM U S A

25 Compressor 10 Bar 1 Boge Germany

26 Compressor 11 Bar 1 Kaeser Germany

27 Compressor 35 Bar 1 Dalgakiran Turkey

28 Boiler 10 Ton 1 Dealim Royal Korea

29 Gas Generator 1 MW 1 MWM Germany

30 Dyeing M/C 1500 Kg 1 Texlink China


500 Kg 1 Dongnam China

5.1.3. Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process

Pretreatment (Scouring & Bleaching)

Neutral

Enzyme (If required)

Dye bath/Leveling bath (with Salt, Soda)

After treatment

5.1.4. Amount of different Ingredients used in different stages

PRETREATMENT

Ingredient Quantity

Wetting agent 1.2 g/l

Anti-creasing agent 1.0 g/l

Sequestering agent 1.0 g/l

Caustic 2.5 g/l

Stabilizer 0.5 g/l

Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2)

3.0 g/l

NEUTRALIZATION Acetic acid 1 g/l

DYEING

Leveling agent 2 g/l



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Dyes

Salt 10 g/l

Soda ash 2 g/l

AFTER TREAMENT Acetic acid 1 g/l

Soaping agent 1 g/l

SOFTENING Acetic acid 0.5 g/l

Softener 1 g/l

5.1.5. Dyes Used in Sadma

Brand Name Origin

Remazol India

Remazole Yellow -RR

Remazole Blue-RR

Remazole Brill Blue-R Special

Remazole turquoise Blue G

Remazole Orange-RR

Synozole Korea

Synozole Yellow K3RS

Synozole Red K3BS

Synozole Nave Blue KBF

Synozole Blue KBR

Dychufix China

Dychufix Yellow 3RXF

Dychufix Yellow 4 GL

Dychufix Black BHC

Dychufix Orange 2RXF

Dychufix Black FWN



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Disperse China

Desperse Yellow-4G

Desperse Blue 562 RL

Desperse Blue 60 BGF

Desperse navy Blue ECOG

Desperse Black ECOG

Dis-Orange –HF

Dis-Red -HF

Dis-Black-HF

Dis Navy Blue HF

Dis-Blue-HF

Dis-Yellow-HF

Corazole India

Cor-Red RD

Cor-Blue-RD

Cor-Orange-RD

Cor-Traquise Blue –G

Cor-Bri-Blue-R-Sp

Cor-Bri –Blue-BB

5.1.6. Process Description for Cotton fabric Dyeing

1. Required amount of water was taken into the machine

2. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes at normal temperature

3. BOS, FE,CF,H-53 (Scouring Chemicals) were added at a time for 5 minutes

4. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes

5. Temperature increased at 60° C

6. Hydrogen per Oxide(H2O2)was added for 5 minutes

7. Temperature increased at 95°C and continue for 1 hour

8. Sample check

9. Cold wash at 40°C for 5-10 minutes

10.Hot wash at 95°C for 5-10 minutes

11.Required amount of water was loaded

12.Acetic acid was added

13.Temperature increased at 80°C for 15-20 minutes



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14.Cold wash at 40°C and drain

15.Water filled and Acetic acid was added

16.PH check at 4.5

17.Leveling agent at 60°C for 5-10 minutes

18.Salt at 60°C for 5-10 minutes

19.Run time 10 minutes

20.Dyes at 60°C for 30 minutes

21.Run time 10 minutes

22.Check the sample

23.Soda ash at 60 for 40 minutes

24.Run time 10 minute

25.Check the sample

26.Color steam

27.B D (Bathe Drain)

28.Wash

29.Hot wash

30.Acetic Acid treatment

31.Run for 20 min

32.Then unload the garments

5.1.7. Common Dyeing Faults

1. Uneven dyeing: Causes: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).

- Improper color dosing

- Using dyes of high fixation property

- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers

- Lack of control on dyeing m/c

Remedies:

- By ensuring even pretreatment

- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals - Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

2. Batch to Batch Shade variation: Causes: - Fluctuation of Temperature

- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals

- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals

- Dyes lot variation

- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio

- Improper pretreatment

Remedies:



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- Use standard dyes and chemicals

- Maintain the same liquor ratio

- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure

- Maintain the same dyeing cycle

- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.

- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in

the process.

- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily

3. Crease mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope

- Shock cooling of synthetic material

- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal

- Due to high speed m/c running

Remedies:

- maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed

- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

- Reducing the m/c load

- Higher liquor ratio

5. Dye spot: Causes: - Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath

- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath

Remedies:

- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals

- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large

un-dissolved particles are removed

6. Softener Mark: Causes: - Improper mixing of the Softener

- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener

- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Remedies:

- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed

- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition

- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

5.2. Finishing The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing

known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made



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into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable

for their intended end use.

5.2.1. Objective of Finishing

- Improving the appearance like Luster, whiteness etc. - Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,

suppleness, fullness, etc.

- Wearing qualities, no soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort etc.

- Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc.

- Covering the faults on the original cloth.

- Increasing the weight of the cloth.

5.2.2. Types of Finishing Finishing is done in two ways-

1. Open Finish

2. Tube Finish

a. The machines that are used for open line are given bellow –

Slitting and Dewatering machine

Stenter machine

Compactor machine

b. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –

Dewatering machine

Dryer

Compactor machine

5.2.3. Flow-chart of Finishing

Finishing

Open Finish Tube Finish

Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing

Stentering Drying

Inspection Compacting

Delivery Inspection

Delivery



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5.3. Images of the Machines in Dyeing & Finishing Unit

Dyeing Machine



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Slitting Machine

Tensionless Dryer



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Stenter Machine

Squeezer Machine Compactor Machine



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CHAPTER SIX

Garments Section



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6.1. Garment Machinery & Equipment

SL.

No.

Machine Name Brand Total

Siruba Precious Juki Brother Pegasus Yamata Fuye

1 Plain Machine 110 10 21 22 163

2 Overlock Machine 137 19 18 1 175

3 Flat lock Machine (Flat bed)

17 3 12 1 33

4 Flat lock Machine (Cylinder)

45 2 2 4 53

5 F/L double chain stitch

1 1

6 Bar tacking 2 2

7 Flat lock zigzag 1 1

8 F/L PMD (Kansan) 2

9 Feed of the arm 2 2

10 Button Hole machine 1 2 3

11 Button stitch machine

1 2 3

12 PRN tulking machine

2

13 Plain machine zigzag 1

14 Fusing press machine

1

15 Snub Button 4

16 Rib cutter machine (normal/Auto)

6

17 Heat transparent machine

2

18 Re Cone machine 1

19 P/P Belt 1

20 Cloth cutting machine

6

21 Needle ditector machine

1

22 Steam iron 25

23 Steam Boiler 1

24 Thread sucking machine

1

Total 490



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6.2. Flow-chart of Garment Manufacturing

Garment design and sketch with measurement sheet

Working Pattern

Sample making

Approved sample

Pattern grading

Marker making

Fabric Spreading

Fabric cutting

Garment assembling (sewing)

Inspection

Finishing Final

inspection

Shipment



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6.3. Description of Process Sequences

6.3.1. Garments design, Sketch and Measurement sheet

Garments design, sketch and measurement sheet is given by the buyer to the sellers. Buyers

make a design of required garments with sketch having all the required accessories and

trimmings. They also provide a measurement sheet of different sizes. All these including name as

merchandising details sheet. After getting these requirements pattern master makes a pattern for

sample making of different sizes. In these there are also manufacturing details with the help of

all required accessories and trimmings.

6.3.2. Pattern

The individual part of a garment which is shaped by a hard paper like drawing sheet is called

pattern. It is classified into 2 types as follows-

I. Working pattern: The pattern which is used to make sample garment is called working or

master pattern.

II. Production pattern: The pattern which is used for bulk production is called production

pattern.

Pattern grading: After developing pattern, pattern master decreases or increases master pattern

stepwise, it is called pattern grading. Like this-

S ↔M↔L↔XL

Before making a sample pattern making according to sketch and measurement or directly from

sample is very important. The construction of pattern is done by two methods like-

I. Manual construction of pattern

II. Computer aided construction of pattern

In Sadma Fashion Wear, they use manual methods of construction of pattern.

During manual or computer aided construction of pattern the pattern draft is developed by

calculation based on the following instructions-

Actual body size

Size charts or sample

Grading increment

Easy allowances

On pattern the following instructions must be marked-

Name of the pattern



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Style

Size

Grain direction

CFL & CBL

Seam allowances

Balance mark

The following tools and equipment are used for pattern construction-

Working surface

Paper

Pencils

Eraser

Marker pen

French curves

Compass

Set square

Scissors

Measuring tape

Rubber, scale, scotch tape etc.

6.3.3. Sample Garment

The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to

sew the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by very efficient and technically

sound person.

- To make sample garment for buyer approval.

- To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed.

6.3.4. Production pattern

The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During

production pattern making, sometimes patterns design may be modified if buyer or authority

suggests any minor modification.

6.3.5. Grading

Normally for large scale of production of any style needs different sizes to produce from asset of

particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which

is called grading.



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6.3.6. Marker Making

Marker is defined as a large thin paper which contents all required patterns pieces of different

sizes for a particular style of apparels.

Marker is made by following steps-

Pattern are placed onto a large thin sheet

Then marked by pen around the pattern

First place big part & small part are placed at the end position

Finally found a marker

Marker is made of fulfill the following objects:

- To get similarities among the apparel

- To save times

- To minimized fabric wastage

- To reduce cost

Marker is made by two methods as follows-

1. Manual method

2. Computerized method

Depending on making of marker it has the following types as follows-

One way marker

Two way marker

Interactive marker

Auto marker

Paper marker

Fabric marker

Whole garment marker

Single size marker

Multi size marker

During marker making the following points should be checked-

- Pattern direction

- Pattern alignment

- Parts missing

- Mismatched checks or stripes

- Overlapping



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- Marker too width than fabric

- Poor line marking

- Double line marking

- Pattern to pattern distance

- Notches and drills marks are omitted

6.3.7. Fabric spreading

Fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of fabric with respect to marker length and width

which is specified. When spreading is done the following basic requirements maintained-

- Alignment of plies

- Correct or uniform ply tension

- Smooth surface of fabric

- Static electricity is not formed during spreading

- Fusion free for synthetic fabric

- Matching of stripe or check

- Distortion free of plies

There are two methods used for spreading-

1. Manual method

2. Mechanical method

In Sadma they use manual method of spreading. Problems may occur during spreading:

- Misalignment of plies

- Mismatching checks or stripes

- Wrong direction of plies

- Incorrect tension of plies

- Fabric relaxation

- Narrow width fabric

- Shaded fabrics

6.3.8. Fabric Cutting

On the spread fabric the marker is placed carefully and accurately and pined with the fabric to

avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting

machine is used to cut the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns , care

must be taken to avoid cutting defects.

During cutting of fabric the following flow chart is followed-



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Fabric spreading

Place marker

Cutting

Sorting

Numbering & 100%checking

Bundling according to size

Input to sewing sector

6.3.9. Sewing /Assembling

Sewing is defined as an operation by an operator through a m/c named sewing m/c which used

sewing thread to sew the fabric by forming stitch in the way of interloping, interlacing of sewing

thread.

To sew a fabric by sewing m/c needle along with sewing thread is used. So to sew a fabric

needle, sewing thread are important elements.

6.4. Sewing Problems

There are various types of sewing problems found in sewing floor. Among these problems the

following are the main –

1. Problem of formation: It has four types as follows -

1. Supplied stitch

Causes:

• Loop size of needle is small

• Bent needle

• Tension variation of looper and needle thread

2. Staggered stitch (Stitch line is not parallel with seam line)

Causes:

• Bent needle



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• Wrong needle point

•Improper needle adjust

3. Unbalanced stitch (If bobbin thread does not work, it produces hole &

forms this stitch)

Causes:

• Incorrect tension of sewing thread

• Incorrect passage of thread through guide

• Insufficient lubrication

4. Frequent thread breakage

Causes:

Improper unwinding

Higher thread tension

Excess heating

Lower quality thread

2. Seam pucker: It is caused for five purposes as follows-

i. Unequal stitch on fabric due to limitation of feed m/c

ii. Fabric dimensional stability due to unequal shrinkage of one ply then other for washing

iii. Extension of sewing thread due to tension

iv. Sewing thread shrinkage after washing or ironing

v. Compact fabric with high EPI, PPI is caused seam puckering during sewing.

3.Fabric damage at the seam line: It is visible after washing and wear which is mainly caused for

needle bending or improper selection of needle size. This is two types of fabric damage with

needle as follows-

Mechanical damage (m/c speed high)

Needle heating damage (300-350°C)

6.5. Finishing

Finishing Flow-chart-



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Garments wash

Loop cutting

Thread trimming

Alter checking

Stitch others

Button attach

Ironing (In side)

Inspection (inside & outside)

Batch label attach

Final ironing Joker

tag attach Needle

detector check Size

tag attach

Hanger attach

Poly packing

Cartooning

Shipment

6.6. Final Inspection

For complete garment that is not in bundle form, it is recommended that statistical inspection

done based on AQL

The defects may be identified in finished garments:

1. Broken ends

2. Broken picks

3. Reed marks



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4. Broken pattern

5. Thick and thin place

6. Rough surface cloth

7. Iron stain

8. Holes in the cloth

9. Shading

10 Shuttle marks

6.7. Garments Merchandising

“Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term

merchandising has been derived from merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought

and sold. The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: Person who merchandises the goods,

specifically for export purpose. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials and

accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments

within schedule time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments

merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge and skill to perform his job successfully. The

job itself is Technical and general as well.

6.7.1. Quality of a merchandiser

The qualities must be needed of a merchandiser are as following:

Good English speaking & writing skill.

Must have computer knowledge like- MS Word, MS Excel, Internet & E-mail etc.

Proper knowledge on mathematics.

Sound working capacity

Always be prepared for any kind of working pressure.

Training is needed for knowing primary knowledge about merchandising.

Proper knowledge about garments production.

Proper knowledge about Commerce & Banking.

Proper knowledge about Shipping line & Airline.



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6.7.2. Duties & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser

Dealing with the buyer & convincing the buyer is the main duty of a marketing officer or

merchandiser. A merchandiser also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of

a merchandiser are given bellow-

To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.

To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers.

To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officers &

merchandisers.

To maintain communication with the buyers and buying houses.

Communicate with better knowledge of the products.

6.7.3. Scope of a Merchandiser

Merchandisers are the key player for generating business for any manufacturing

plants/company.

Merchandisers are responsible for making good profit for the company. Whatever the

nature of business, they are always keen to increase the profit margin for the company.

To maintain a good relationship between all the departments and to get the best output

from each department is also important and merchandisers play a vital role in getting

good output from each department.

Communication skill is important to maintain an effective communication between all

concerned parties. Corresponding with buyer/agent for all related work i.e. sample

approval, testing, packaging, shipping.

To act as a link between different departments of company for order processing,

supplying, payment collection and other export related documents.

6.7.4. Costing/Pricing

Costing is the principal task of any merchandisers.

Methods of Pricing:

1.Calculate the fixed and variable costs associated with the product.

2. Also the cost elements below need to consider during costing.

Pricing for Fibers & Yarns

Pricing for fabric manufacturing

Pricing for garment manufacturing

Cost of accessories

Commercial cost



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Break-even point

Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage percentage.

Total cost analysis (how much does it cost to provide merchandise to end customer)

6.8. Images of Garments Section

Sewing floor

Fabric Cutting



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Folding Room

Ironing



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Packing Room

Inspection room



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CHAPTER SEVEN

Quality Control



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7.1. Quality Control

Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to control of the

textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products. It is concerned not only

with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but also concerned with the

presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. In order to control

quality the consumers expectations must get priority.

7.2. Objective of quality control

Research/analysis

Selection of raw materials

Process control and development

Product testing

Specification testing

Quality assurance

7.3. List of equipment for quality control

Yarn grade tester

Electronics balance

Spray rating tester

Iron

Button tester

Lab dip dyeing m/c

Orbiter pilling tester

PH meter

7.4. Quality control Flow chart

Yarn receiving

Sample knitting

Batching

Dyeing (check shade & faults of dyeing)



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Dewatering & untwisting

Dyeing(check diameter, pretreatment, shrinkage & GSM)

Compacting

Final inspection

If sample ok go for bulk production

7.5. Quality management System

1. On-line Quality Control

2. Off-line Quality Control

7.5.1. On-line Quality Control

Online quality control comprises with the raw material control, process control & finish fabric

inspection.

a. Raw material control:

As the quality of product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance department

must ensure that the best quality raw materials are used in production.

- The chemical should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.

- The dyes and chemical should be compatible with each other.

- The fabric must be out of faults with proper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of

subsequent process.

b. Process control:

- The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary parameters.

- Temperature, pH, water level should be checked at each stage of process.

- During dyeing sample are taken and shade match with lab dip and when match, allow

for bathe drop.

- If not properly match additional or topping is done until required shade come.

- After neutralization sample is collected and match with lab dip.

- Sample is collected after fixation.

- Last of all after softening sample is collected and match with lab dip.

- Each batch should be match with other batch.

- During finishing temperature, speed, overfeed should be controlled as per

requirement.

- GSM, width, shrinkage should be maintain as per buyer requirement.



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c. Finish fabric inspection:

To ensure that only an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments and proper

quality of shipment is received from the supplier.

- Store in charge will check the received fabric with reported length, color and type of

fabric with the stated shipment document quality and actual order quantity.

- The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding fabric type,

color and length will be notified to the factory manager.

- For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.

7.5.2. Off-line Quality Control

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used

and processed materials. There are two types materials tested in laboratory for quality control.

These are-

a. Fabric

b. Raw materials.

a. Fabric testing:

All the off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:

1. Physical test

2. Chemical test

1. Physical test:

- Fabric inspection by 4-point system.

- GSM test

- Width of the fabric measure.

- Rubbing test

- Pilling test

- Shrinkage test

2. Chemical test

- Color fastness to water

- Color fastness to wash



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- Color fastness to rubbing

- Color fastness to perspiration

- Oxidative test

b. Raw material testing:

- Water : pH, hardness test

- Glauber salt : purity test

- Acetic Acid : Strength

- Soda ash : Strength

- Caustic soda : Strength

- Hydrogen per oxide: Strength



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CHAPTER EIGHT

Utility Section



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8.1. Utility Services

- Electricity

- Gas

- Water

- Steam

- Compressed air

8.2. Capacity & Other Technical Details

1. Electricity

Generally the factory doesn’t depend on electricity. They hardly use the government electricity.

The electricity is supplied form REB. The electricity supplied in the factory about 4000 KWH

monthly. But three standby power gas generators are also kept to meet the need of electricity if

necessary.

Generator Specification-

Sl. No. Brand Name Origin Power

1 MWM Germany 480 KW

2 MWM Germany 1 MW

3 MWM Germany 1 MW

2. Gas

Gas is mainly used for producing electricity and steam production. The gas is supplied by TITAS

GAS DISTRIBUTION CO. Gas consumption is 3, 00,000 – 3, 100,000 m3 monthly.

3. Water

Continuous supply of water for different section of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is ensured by

pump.

4. Steam

Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand of steam

in different sections. There are two gas boilers used for steam generation to meet the requirement

of different sections.

Boiler Specification

Sl. No. Brand Name Origin Capacity

1 Dealim Royal Korea 10 Ton

2 Dealim Royal Korea 5 Ton



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5. Compressed Air

The requirement of compressed air is fulfilled by air compressor m/c. In this m/c, natural gas is

drawn by pipe through the filter above the compressor & the air is compressed. In such a case the

air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn to reduce the temperature of compressed air.

While doing so, the cold water becomes slightly hot & it is transferred through outlet pipe to the

overhead reservoir. There the vapors are condensed and outlets drop by drop. Then the water is

let to fall slowly through the reservoir to the compressed air to obtain moist compressed air. The

moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressed air is delivered to

required sections of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

Compressor Specification-

Sl. No. Brand Name Origin Max Pressure

1 Boge Germany 10 Bar

2 Kaeser Germany 10 Bar

3 Kaeser Germany 25 Bar

4 Dalgakiran Turkey 35 Bar

8.3. Source of Utility

Electricity: REB & Gas Generator

Steam: Boiler

Water: Pump

Compressed air: Compressor

Gas: TITAS GAS DISTRIBUTION CO.



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CHAPTER NINE

Maintenance Section



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9.1. Maintenance

Maintenance of machinery is very essential mechanical effort for achieving smooth running of

different machines. Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way

that trouble free services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality

required by the customers is achieved. On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures

trouble free services.

9.2. Types of Maintenance

Two types of maintenance are done in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.-

1. Break down Maintenance: a) Mechanical maintenance

b) Electrical maintenance

2. Routine Maintenance: a) Mechanical maintenance

b) Electrical maintenance

1. Break down maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises in

machine. In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform

its normal functions.

2. Routine maintenance: After a particular period of operation, the machines are cleaned &

reordered, that is routine or schedule maintenance. The maintenance department does it once in a

month. Schedule maintenance varies, time in time & also depends on situation according to types

of machines, because maintenance is directly related to production. Most of the time, all the

screws, nuts, bolts & levers are checked, lubrication is also done. Workers inform about the

problem areas of the machines. Depending on their information maintenance is done.

Maintenance engineer analyze the records and take steps according to requirement.

Maintenance is a necessary task in any industry. But the degree and interval of maintenance is

dependent upon the age of the machineries. The Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. has relatively new

machineries, which are very modern. Due to this reason a relatively less amount of maintenance

is needed to be carried out. Nevertheless, routine maintenance of the machineries is carried out –

1. Daily Work

2. Weekly Work

3. Monthly Work



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9.3. Maintenance Procedure (Mechanical)

9.3.1. Dyeing Machine

Sl. No Item needed to be checked & Serviced

01 Compressed air system Checking

02 Steam System checking

03 All motor/pump sound and temperature checking

04 Water system checking

05 Oil level(Pump/gear box) checking

06 All belts tight/Adjusting

07 Gear oil checking/

08 All bearings cleaning

09 Checking all control panels

10 Lubrication of all motors bearings

9.3.2. Gas Boiler

Sl. No Item needed to be checked & Serviced

1 Checking of water level glass

2 Checking of F.W system and handiness

3 Checking of auto operation of pumps

4 Checking and cleaning of photo-cells

5 Checking of control


7 All cable terminal adjusting

8 Lubrication of all motor bearings

9.3.3. Gas Generator

Sl.No Item needed to be checked & Serviced

1 Lub. oil level checking 2 Cooling water system checking

3 Better water level checking

4 All belt tight/Adjusting



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5 Panel board cleaning 6 All bearing greasing

7 All cable terminal adjusting

8 Cleaning and maintenance of PHE and CT

9.3.4. Compactor, Dryer

SL. No Item needed to be checked & Serviced

1 Comp: air system Checking

2 All motor/pump sound and temperature checking

3 Steam and cond. System checking

4 Filter cleaning and thermo oil checking

5 All belt tight/Adjusting 6 All bearings cleaning


8 Lubrication of all motors bearing

9.3.5. Knitting Machine

Sl. No Item Needed to be checked & Serviced

1 Dial/Cylinder rotation checking

2 Roller rotation checking

3 Cam setting and oiling

4 Needle breakage checking

5 Sensor checking

6 Motor checking

7 Belt adjusting

9.3.6. Maintenance Tools & Equipment

Sl. No. Maintenance

tools/equipment Functions

1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts 2. Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting

3. Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts

4. Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt

fitting

5. Hammer To apply load where required


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6. Screw driver To release any screw

7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft

8. Lock opener To open the clip of bearing 9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing

10. Outside calipers To measure outside dia

11. Inside calipers To measure inside dia 12. Slide calipers To measure very small dia

13. Vernier scale To measure very small dia

14. Chain ton To lift heavy load

15. Welding machine To join metallic parts

16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics

17. Tester To test electric circuit

18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything

19. Voltmeter To measure voltage

20. Steel tape To measure length, width & height




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CHAPTER TEN

Effluent Treatment Plant



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10.1. Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor which is extracted from an industry after using in

original operation. For example, The excess dye liquor which is extracted from textile industry

after dyeing from different processes are treated with various chemicals to remove or neutralize

the toxic materials before discharging to environment (e.g. ground water) . This is called effluent

treatment.

10.2. Objective of ETP

The main objective of ETP are mentioned below-

To remove coloring matter.

To control pH

To maintain proper value of BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand),COD(Chemical Oxygen

Demand)

To reduce TDS(Total Dissolved Solid) amount.

10.3. Capacity of ETP at Sadma

Treatment capacity = 125 m³/hour

Daily treatment capacity = 3000 m³/day

10.4. Flow-chart of ETP

Waste water ↓

Collection tank / equalization tank ↓

Pumping water ↓

Clarifier settles off ↓

Bio-tower tank (pH check) ↓

Pumping ↓

Aeration tank ↓

Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier) ↓

Dispose to environment



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10.5. Function of ETP

1. Screening unit: Firstly liquid waste is passed through the screening unit to separate the coarser

particle.

2. Equalization unit: In this unit hot liquid waste is kept to cool.

3. Primary clarifier: In this unit liquid waste is treated with Sodium Hypo Chloride, Poly

Aluminum Chloride and polyelectrolyte. So that sludge is separated through the coagulation and

flocculation. Sludge is passed to Sludge processing unit. pH can be controlled by adding

concentrated hydrochloric acid in between coagulation processes.

4. Aeration unit: After sludge separation in primary clarifier the liquid waste is passed to aeration

unit for biological treatments. In aeration unit organic waste is introduced into a reactor where

the bacteria culture carries out the conversion of organic matter to Carbon Di Oxide and Water.

It should be noted that urea and Diamonium phosphate (DAP) are generally used as nutrients in

aeration tank.

5. Sludge processing unit: After biological treatment the sludge is passed to sludge processing

unit. Special care should be given for sludge management. The sludge can be filled into the three

layer polythene bags and can be used for low land filling purpose. Experts and scientists recently

introduced a concept of brick making by sludge. Though it requires further studies regarding this

purpose.

6. Secondary Clarifier: After biological treatment the liquid waste is passed to the secondary

clarifier. In secondary clarifier the upper layer of the liquid waste remains stationary. The liquid

waste is passed from the lower level of the secondary clarifier so that remaining dissolved solids

are separated as sludge.

7. Disinfection unit: The treated liquid waste passed to this unit and treated with sodium

hypochlorite to kill remaining microorganism in liquid waste.

10.6. Chemicals Used in ETP

1. Lime

2. Polyester

3. Ferrous Sulphate

4. Urea



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10.7. Waste water Analysis

A typical textile unit is expected to generate various types of waste-water differing in magnitude

and quality at the stages shown below-

Sl. No. Wet processing stages Waste-water type

01 Desizing High TSS, High BOD, pH 02 Scouring High TSS, High BOD, High

TDS, High alkalinity, High temperature

03 Bleaching and mercerization High TSS, High BOD, Alkaline waste-water.

04 Dyeing, printing, Finishing Waste dye, High TSS, High BOD

10.8. Maintenance of ETP

The workers of the ETP check various valves, pipe line daily. The bearings are lubricated on

daily basis and weakly basis. If any kinds of parts are damaged, the E.T.P department notices to

the maintenance department for new one. In a short time the maintenance department manages

all problems because of running smoothly of the ETP.



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Conclusion

Technical education & its adoption in practical field we involved. Inextricably without the

implementation of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success bound to suffer.

Therefore these six weeks long industrial training helped us to accomplish the gap between the

theoretical & practical knowledge by providing an element idea about industrial environment,

processing machines, tools, equipment, production system & maintenance, administration &

management system. We tried our best to gather all necessary information, but it is true that

within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success. But as a whole this

industrial training was a satisfactory one. Again we would like to thank the authority of Sadma

Fashion Wear Ltd. as well as our honorable teachers for their altruistic help & advice. So we

think this industrial training has prepared us for the expected destiny of our life.

Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

Engineering

Transcript of Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd