Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)

Industrial Training Report Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING REPORT Course Code: TXE-429

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

Md. Kamrul Hasan

B.Sc in Textile Engineering (BUBT)

ID: 10112107047

Intake: 2nd

Section: 02

Date of Published: January, 2015

Mobile No. 01713640363

Email: [email protected]


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Table of Content Page

1. Chapter One (Company Profile) 7-16

1.1. Company Profile at a glance

1.2. Office Staff:

1.3. Quality Policy

1.4. Welfare Facilities

1.5. Compliance

1.6. Recruitment policy

1.7. Different Departments

1.8. Present Buyers

1.9. Logo of Present Buyer

1.10. Certification

1.11. Production Capacity

1.12. Production Area

1.13. Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd

1.14. Basic Layout of Whole Factory

1.15. Factory Building of Sadma

2. Chapter Two (Manpower Management System) 17-21

2.1. Manpower Management System

2.2. Management Medium

2.3. Shifting

2.4 Section Wise Manpower

2.5. Duties and Responsibilities of Different Post

2.6. Deputy General Manager (DGM) Production

2.7. Manager

2.8. Senior Production Officer

2.9. Production Officer

2.10. Shift In charge

3. Chapter Three (Production Planning & Control) 22-23

3.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control


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4. Chapter Four (Raw-Materials) 24-28

4.1. Main Raw- Materials

4.2. Type of Raw-Materials

4.3. Chemical Use in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd

4.4. Dyes use in Sadma Fashion wear Ltd.

4.5. Remark

5. Chapter Five (Working Sequence of Knitting Section) 29-33 5.1. Working Sequence of Knitting Section

5.2. Working Sequence of Batch Preparation


5.4. Working Sequence of Finishing Section

5.5. Working Sequence of Garments Manufacturing Section

5.6. Production Parameter of Knitting

5.7. Production Parameter of Dyeing

5.8. Remark

6. Chapter Six (Knitting Section) 34-57 6.1. Layout Plan of Knitting Section 6.2. Fabric 6.3. Knitting Fabric 6.4. Classification of Knitting 6.5. Process Flow Chart of Knitting

6.6. Different Fabric Characteristics & End Uses

6.7. Machine List of Knitting Section in Sadma

6.8. Different Parts in Knitting Machine

6.9. Types of knitted Fabric Produce in Sadma

6.10. Design Development by Changing Different Cam Setting

6.11. Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics

6.12. Production Calculation

6.13. Production Parameter

6.14. Important Parameter & Their Effect in Fabric Production

6.15. Faults with their Causes and Remedies in Knitting

6.16. Quality Assurance System of Knitting

6.17. Fabric Inspection

6.18. Fabric Inspection Machine

6.19. Faults are detected By Inspection 6.20. Point Distribution for Different kinds of Fault

7. Chapter Seven (Batching) 58-61

7.1. Batching


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7.2. Batch Process Follow-Up

7.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection

7.4. Object of Batching

7.5. Types of Batching

7.6. Proper Batching Criteria

7.7. Machine in Batch Section

8. Chapter Eight (Color Measurement System) 62-72

8.12. Color Measurement of Standard Sample

8.12. Machine Specification in Section

9. Chapter Nine (Dyeing Section) 73-102

9.1. Layout of Dyeing Floor

9.2. Dyeing Machine Specification

9.3. Specification and Images of Dyeing & Finishing Machine

9.4. Operation Procedure

9.5. Dyeing Process Definition

9.6. Dyeing process of Cotton

9.7. Dyeing Process of CVC of PC

9.8. Process Sequence of Critical Shade (Turquoise Color)

9.9. Some Important Parameter for Dyeing

9.10. Common Dyeing Fault with their Remedies

10. Chapter Ten (Finishing Section) 103-111

10.1. Introduction of Finishing

10.2. Objective of Finishing

10.3. Different Finishing Machine in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

10.4. Observation of Different Finishing Machine

10.5. Squeezer of De-Watering Machine

10.6. Dryer

10.7. Tube Compactor

10.8. Slitting Machine

10.9. Stenter Machine

10.10. Open Compactor


10.12. Fault Point System

11. Chapter Eleven (Garments Section) 112-132

11.1. Garments

11.2. Garment Machinery & Equipment

11.3. Garments Manufacturing Process

11.4. Sewing Sequence of T- Shirt


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11.5. Sewing Sequence of a Polo Shirt

11.6. Garments Accessories

11.7. Description of Process Sequences

12.5. Sewing Problems

11.8.Garments Finishing

11.9. Final Inspection

11.10. Garments Merchandising

11.11. Images of Garments Section

12. Chapter Twelve (Quality Section) 133-147

12.1. Quality Control

12.2. Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection

12.3. Objects of Quality Control

12.4. List of Equipments

12.5 Quality Management System

12.6. Textile Testing for Knit Fabric

12.7. Quality Control Flow Chart

12.8. Quality Assurance

12.9. Some Test procedure are given below

13. Chapter Thirteen (Quality Section) 148-152

13.1. Maintenance

13.2. Objective of Maintenance

13.3. Types of Maintenance

13.4. Maintenance Tools & Equipments

13.5. Maintenance Procedure

13.6. Remarks

14. Chapter Fourteen (Utility& ETP Section) 153-161

14.1. Available Utility Facilities

14.2. Effluent Treatment Plant

14.3. Classification of ETP

14.4. Using Chemicals in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

14.5. Product Quality Checked

14.6. Overall view of ETP Plant

14.8. Remark

15. Chapter Fifteen (Marketing Section) 162-165

15.1. Marketing Activities

15.2. Buyer‟s Compliance


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Introduction

The term “Textile” derived from the Latin word “texture” meaning to weave. Textile has

traditionally meant a woven fabric. Most textiles are produced by twisting fibers into yarns and

knitting or weaving the yarns into a fabric. This method of making cloth has been used for thousands

of years. By achieving practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the

technical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equally necessary in

association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the most effective process of

achieving the practical experience. It provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production

management, productivity, evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, production

planning & control, production cost analysis, inventory control, purchasing, utilities and

Maintenance of machinery and their operation technique etc. Industrial attachment is an essential

part of four years B.Sc. in Textile technology course of Bangladesh University of Business and

Technology. We had the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Sadma Fashion Wear

Ltd. During 8 weeks long attachment, we studied the man, machine, material aspects of the circular

knitting section, knit dyeing section quality control section, planning section, grey fabric inspection.

According to my studies there we have prepared the following report and would like to present.


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CHAPTER-ONE

Company Profile


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1.1. Company Profile at a glance

1. Factory: Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

2. Factory Address: Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048.

3. HeadOffice: Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4, Block # F, Banani, Dhaka,

Bangladesh. Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911

Fax # 88-02-9870502

Email: [email protected] / [email protected]

4. Chairman:Md. Lokman Hossain

Mobile : 01713-038619,01713-245582

5. Managing Director: Md. Nasir Uddin. Mobile : 01713-245588


6. Director: Jahir Uddin Mamun. Mobile : 01713-085117


7. Contact Person:

A. Md. Al-Amin, General Manager, Garments. Mobile: 01713-245585

Email: [email protected] /[email protected]

B. Roushan Zamir Rony, General Manager, Dyeing. Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593.

Email: [email protected] , [email protected]

C. Md. Masudur Rahman, General Manager, Knitting. Mobile: 01711676758


D. Md. Majharul Kabir (Tito) Sr. Manager (Dyeing & Finishing).Mobile: 01715393717


8. Year of Establishment: 07.01.2002

9. Paid Up Capital: 40, 000, 00. 00

10. EPB Registration: 4224

11. Certifications: ISO, BSCI, Oak-Tex, IAF,WRAR, UKAS

12. Production Capacity: Dyeing & Finishing 450 tons per month.

Garments 9,000,00 pcs per month

Knitting 360 tons per month

mailto:[email protected]













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13. Bank: SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED.

Foreign Exchange Branch,

Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100

Factory A/C NO: 13300009963

Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX

14. Product Mix: Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, Plain interlock

15. Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men‟s, Lady‟s & Kid‟s wear in varies

kinds of knit fabric.

16. Year End Turnover: 50Million USD

1.2. Office Staff:

A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers &

Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 200 people are working as a

Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager.

1.3. Quality Policy

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet

the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on time delivery of

shipments. To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. provides all the necessary resources

to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper

care of customer requirements. Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared

responsibility of its entire staff. The company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work

to the company‟s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory

requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer‟s expectation e.g. code of

conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance

Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company‟s goal.

1.4. Welfare Facilities

Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, job Satisfaction

& attendance.

Canteen facilities.

Subsidized lunch for staff.

Free snacks for workers.

Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.

Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic.

Cultural function.

Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.

Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.

A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting arrangement.


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Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law.

1.5. Compliance

Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law‟s, Human rights, Social

compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government.

1.6. Recruitment policy

No child labor in this factory.

No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure.

There is no force labor.

1.7. Different Departments

Knitting

Dyeing

Finishing

Garments

Utility

Maintenance

Quality Assurance

Planning

Research & Development

Admin

HR & Compliance

1.8. Present Buyers

C & A(Germany)

Zellers (Canada)

George (U.K)

Sears (Canada)

Sainsbury (U.K)

Diplomat Fashion (U.S.A)

Matalan (U.K)

Artextyl (U.S.A / France)

S F G (Australia)

Xios (U.S.A)

Vayla (U.S.A)

Walmart (U.S.A)

Emporio Junior(Italy)

Pierre Cardin (Italy)

Carrefour Import Sas (France)


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1.9. Logo of Present Buyer:


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1.10. Certification

ISO 9001:2008, WRAP.

Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA)


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1.11. Production Capacity

Production Capacity Knitting: 12000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing: 8000 Kgs Per Day

Production Capacity Garments: 20000 Pcs. Per Day

Production lead time: 45-90 Days

1.12. Production Area

Knitting space: 5000 sq. feet

Dyeing space: 34000 sq. feet

Finishing Goods & Store: 5500 sq. feet

2nd Floor: 5500 sq. feet

3rd Floor: 6500 sq. feet

4th Floor: 6500 sq. feet

5th Floor: 6500 sq. feet 6th Floor: 6500 sq. feet

Other space: 2000 sq. feet

Total space: = 77000 sq. feet


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1.13. Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd

Figure: Location of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.


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1.14. Basic Layout of Whole Factory

Figure: Basic Layout of Whole Factory.


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1.15. Factory Building of Sadma

Figure: Factory Building of Sadma.


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CHAPTER-TWO

Manpower Management


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2.1. Manpower Management System

The Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. committed to the best human workplace practices. Their goal is

to continuously improve human resource policies & procedures through education, training,

communication and employees improvement.

2.2. Management Medium

Intercom Telephone.

Fax.

E-mail.

Written letter & papers.

Oral.

2.3. Shifting

In Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. the whole day production time is divided into 3 shifts. Per shift consists

of 8 hours.

Shift Duration

Shift A

6:00 am- 2:00 pm

Shift B

2:00pm – 10:00 pm

Shift C 10.00pm-6.00am


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2.4 Section Wise Manpower

Department Manpower

Knitting

90

Dyeing & Finishing

300

Lab & QC

25

Garments

800

Power, Boiler ,Utility & Maintenance

15

Inventory

15

Administration

25

Security

30

Others 20

Total 1320


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2.5. Duties and Responsibilities of Different Post

G.M in Dyeing and Finishing Section

Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.

Check the different log books and report to management.

Check the plan to control the best output.

To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.

Control the Manager, Asst. Manager, Senior Production Officer, Production Officer, in-

charge, supervisor of dyeing and finishing section.

2.6. Deputy General Manager (DGM) Production


Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.

Check the different log books in different areas and report to management.

Check the plan to control the best output.

To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.

Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.

Any other work as and when required.

2.7. Manager

To supervise the personal working under him

To plan the sequence of production

To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.

To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production.

To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.

2.8. Senior Production Officer


Batch preparation and pH check.

Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check

Write loading/unloading time from machine.

Program making, sample checking color measurement.

Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.

Any other work as and when required.


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2.9. Production Officer

To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the

smooth running of the section.

To match production sample with target shade.

To match production sample lot sample matching next production.

To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.

To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/Gm for necessary action.

To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.

To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM

To execute the overall floor work.

To maintain loading/unloading paper.

2.10. Shift In charge:

To follow the workers movement.

Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening.

To maintain the production sequence.

To check the sample at certain time interval.


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CHAPTER-THREE

Production Planning and

Control


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3.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within the required

time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives a scheduled task and

control completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task. Its basic

working procedure is as follows-

A. Taking order form marketing division ,

B. Analyzing the orders

C. Planning for knitting the fabric

D. Planning for dyeing the fabric

E. Planning for finishing the fabric

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes the order is

planned only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then some steps are

minimizing for planning.

A. Taking order from the marketing division

Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division by a specific

format.

B. Analyzing the orders

After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order

quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.) delivery date etc. This section plans

for required quantity of fabric to be knitted, knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing balance RFD

(ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance.

C. Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no of m/c to be

used, type of yarn used, from which source of yarn will be collected, required GSM, width etc. It

also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.

D. Planning for dyeing of the fabric

Production planning for dyeing is called "Batch Plan". Batch plan is prepared according to

m/c capacity, no. of nozzle batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of delivery

etc. and written in a batch card.

E. Planning for finishing of the fabric

Finishing schedule is same as dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing section with

the batch plan. The fabric can be finished in the open line finish or tube line finish. Finishing line

will be selected according to the type of the fabric to be finished. Finishing data is written to the

batch card and is informed to the planning section. However this section always forces to all the

departments to finish all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very

important role in the success of the company.


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Chapter-Four

Raw Material, Dyes & Chemical


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4.1. Main Raw- Materials

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital

role in continuous production and high quality fabric.

4.2. Type of Raw-Materials

A. Yarn

B. Fabric

C. Dye stuff

D. Chemical and auxiliaries.

A. Yarn

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of different

count are used. Both carded and combed yarns are used for knitting.

Generally used yarn and yarn count

Yarn Type Yarn Count

Cotton 24s, 26

s, 28

s, 30

s, 32

s, 34

s, 40

s.

CVC 24s, 26

s, 28

s, 30

s, 32

s.

Grey Melange 24s, 26

s, 28

s, 30

s, 32

s.

PC(65%Polyester & 35%Cotton) 24s, 26

s, 28

s, 30

s.

Spandex yarn 20D, 40D, 70D.

B. Sources

The required yarns are supply from

Cotton Yarn

Name of the spinning Mills Location

Gulshan Spinning Ltd. Gazipur

J K Spinning Gazipur

N Z Textile Rupgonj,Narayangonj.

Tamijuddin Textile mill Ltd. Konabari, Gazipur

Shajahan Spinning Mills Shreepur,Gazipur

R N Spinning Gazipur.


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Badsha Spinning Gazipur

Hanif Spinning Gazipur

Shirin Spinning Ltd. Shreepur, Gazipur

Pakiza spinning Narshindi

Sqaure Spinning Valuka, Mymensingh

Lycra

Singapore

Korea

Indonesia

Japan

Fabric:

Single jersey

Single jersey with lycra

Polo pique

Single lacoste

Interlock

Interlock with lycra

Fleece

Rib

Rib with lycra

1×1Rib

2×1Rib

2×2Rib

Different types of Collar & Cuff

Twill tape

4.3. Chemical Use in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd

Basic Chemical

Acetic Acid

Sulphuric Acid

Caustic Soda

Soda ash

Hydrogen peroxide

Formic Acid

Bleaching Agent

50%H2O2

Enzyme

Gold RSL

Biozyme

Rezyme

P200


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Sequestering Agent

PS cone

HRO

E3R

Anti foaming Agent

ATS

UDF

Antimusol FFC

Leveling agent

CFTR

Ladi

L.Quest

Stabilizer

Info ST

Best

Salt Glubar salt Anti creasing Agent Best Ant

Detergent

Sirix 2UD

Info NGE

BGL

Peroxid Killer

Infozyme

Softener

4D

CSB

HD

Reducing Agent

Hydrose(Na2S2O4)

Fixing Agent

ECO

Polyfix AC

Optifix EC

Brightening Agent 4BK

BVB

Washing Agent

Best

Info RW

Innocol RD

Whitening Agent

Uvitex BAM

Uvitex BHV

Synowhite

4.4. Dyes use in Sadma Fashion wear Ltd.

SI.

No

Dye name Origin SI.

No

Dye name Origin

1 Hellocron Red

HXF(Dis

China 21 Fucozol Blue EBL China

2 Hellocron Blue HXF China 22 Fucozol Blue EXN China

3 Hellocron Navy HXF China 23 Fucozol Blue RSPL China

4 Hellocron Black HXF China 24 Fucozol T-Blue G China

5 Hellocron Yellow

Brown HXF

China 25 Fucozol N-Blue NBF China

6 Hellocron Yellow

6GSL

China 26 Fucozol N-Blue USB China

7 Hellocron Navy Blue

ECOR

China 27 Fucozol Black BG China

8 Hellocron Orange ERL China 28 Fucozol Orange D2R China

9 Hellocron Black ECOR China 29 Remazol Yellow RR Germany


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10 Hellocron Blue BGE China 30 Remazol Red RR Germany

11 Hellocron Red FB China 31 Remazol Blue RR Germany

12 Fucozol Yellow 3RF China 32 Remazol Orange RR Germany

13 Fucozol Yellow L3R China 33 Remazol Yellow 3GL Germany

14 Fucozol Yellow UCF China 34 Remazol T-Blue G Germany

15 Fucozo Yellow UCX China 35 Remazol Blue RSPL Germany

16 Fucozol Red 3BF China 36 Reactive Yellow 3RE China

17 Fucozol Red L3B China 37 Reactive Red 3BE China

18 Fucozol Red UCX China 38 Reactive Yellow 4GL China

19 Fucozol Red USG China 39 Reactive Black B China

20 Fucozol Red USB China 40 Reactive Orange MCRL China

Note:

Disperse Dyes

Reactive Dyes

4.5. Remark:

As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw material are always bought by the

management of factory. Besides there is enough space to keep this raw material in the factory.


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CHAPTER-FIVE

Working Sequence of different

Section


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5.1. Working Sequence of Knitting Section

Order sheet receiving from Merchandiser

Selecting of production parameters

Arranging of yarn

Testing of yarn

Arranging of selected machine

Making a pre-production sample

Starting of bulk production after approval

Checking of grey fabric

Delivery of grey fabric according to batch wise


Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey fabric in-charge.

Make priority as per dyeing plan.

Take one specific batch card.

Read the batch card for own understanding.

Check the availability of fabric.

The required quantity of body fabric from ware house.

Take collar & cuff as per size keep the total weight.

Distribute the collar, cuff or rib in each rope equally ensure equal length.

Stitch the fabric.

Write down the weight against roll no. in the back side of the batch card.

Put signature and date.


Batching

Pretreatment

Dyeing

Fabric sent to finishing section


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5.4. Working Sequence of Finishing Section

Receive fabric from dyeing section

Tube or Open fabric

Squeezer

Slitter (Tube fabric)

Stenter

Compactor

Final inspection

Packing or Rolling

Fabric sent to delivery section

5.5. Working Sequence of Garments Manufacturing Section

Merchandiser receive order from buyer

Order confirmed

Knitting

Dyeing & Finishing

Cutting

Printing and Embroidery (If required)

Sewing

Finishing

Inspection

Packing

Shipment


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5.6. Production Parameter of Knitting

Machine diameter.

Machine rpm.

No. of feeder or feeders in used.

Machine gauge.

Count of yarn.

Required time (m/c running time)

Machine running efficiency.

5.7. Production Parameter of Dyeing

pH level for different stage of Polyester fabric Dyeing

Name of Stage pH rate

Initial (Bath) 6.5-7.0

Scouring (Bath) 10.0-11.5

After Scouring (Bath) 8.5-9.0

Before addition of leveling chemical 6.0-6.5

After addition of leveling chemical 4.5-4.7

After addition of color (Bath) 4.2-4.5

During reduction cleaning (Bath) 10.5-11.5

Before softener (Bath) 6.3-6.8

After softener (Bath) 5.8-6.2

pH level for different stage of Cotton fabric Dyeing

Name of Stage pH rate

Initial bath 6.5-7.0

Scouring & Bleaching (Bath) 10.0-10.5

After Scouring & Bleaching 8.5-9.0

Before Enzyme (Bath) 4.5-4.7

After Enzyme (Bath) 5.5-6.0

Before addition of leveling chemical 6.5-7.0

After addition of leveling chemical 6.7-7.0

After addition of dyes 6.0-6.5

After addition of Salt 7.5-8.0

After addition of Soda 10.5-11.0

Hot wash (Bath) 8.5-8.7

Before softener (Bath) 7.2-7.8

After softener addition (Bath) 6.5-6.8


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5.8. Remark

This data‟s are varied depending upon the grey GSM and finished GSM and also on the

diameter of the fabric all this parameters are suitable for grey GSM range 140 to 160 to get final

GSM 170 to 185 without lycra fabric. All this data‟s are practiced in mills which may very factory to

factory.


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CHAPTER-6

KNITTING SECTION


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6.1. Layout Plan of Knitting Section

A. Supervisor Desk

B. Inspection Machine

C. Wash Room

Figure: Layout Plan of Knitting Section


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6.2. Fabric

Fabrics are manufactured assembly of fibers or yarn. Which have substantial surface areas in

relation to the thickness and sufficient strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion.

There are three types of fabric. They are-

Knitted fabric

Woven fabric

Non-woven fabric

6.3. Knitting Fabric

Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a

series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.

6.4. Classification of Knitting

6.5. Process Flow Chart of Knitting

Yarn in cone form

↓

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

↓

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement

↓

Tension devise

↓

Knitting

Warp Knitting

Weft Knitting

Flat Knitting

Circular Knitting

Knitting

Knitting

Double Jersey

Single Jersey


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Knitting

↓

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

↓

Inspection

↓

Numbering

6.6. Different Fabric Characteristics & End Uses

Characteristics of Single Jersey

Fairly elastic.

Face side and back side of fabric are different.

Front side is smooth and the back side is rough.

V-Shaped loops in the front, while semi-circular needle loops shown in the back.

Curl or roll of fabric occurs at the edges.

Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.

Extensibility in widthwise is approximately twice than length.

Unraveling of fabric occurs from either side is possible.

Thickness of fabric is approximately twice the diameter of yarn used.

There is only one series of knitted loop per courses in the fabric

End Use

T-shirt Underwear Dresses Stocking

Characteristics of Double Jersey

A broken stitch will cause laddering. Consume more quantity of yarn than a plain fabric. Does not curl at both ends. Good stretch ability in widthwise direction.

End Use

Cuffs Collars Sweaters Garments


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Characteristics of Plain Interlock

Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance of face and back

are same.

The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are locked together.

Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the same as single jersey .

The fabric does not curl at the edges .

The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.

Two yarn must be removed to unravel a complete repeat of knitted courses.

Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey.

End Use

T-shirt

Ladies dresses

Sweaters

Garments

Outerwear

6.7. Machine List of Knitting Section in Sadma

Serial

No Machine Type Brand Origin Quantity

Machine

Diameter

Machine

Gauge

No. of

Feeder

1 Single Jersey Lisky Taiwan 2 18” 24 54





6 Single Jersey Fukahama Taiwan 4 28” 24 108





11 Rib Young

Cheng Taiwan 2 20” 18/24 88


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12 Rib/Interlock Lisky Taiwan 2 24” 18/24 64





17 Rib/Interlock Lisky Taiwan 2 40” 24 96

6.8. Different Parts in Knitting Machine

Figure: Circular Knitting machine

1. Creel

Creel is a part of a knitting machine where yarn package are store and ready to feed in the machine.


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Figure: Creel

2. VDQ Pulley

It is a very important part of the machine. It is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch

length.

Figure: VDQ Pulley

3. Belt & Pulley: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

Figure: Pulley Belt

4. Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.

Figure: Tension Disk


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5. Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion:

It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is break.

Image: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion

6. Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.

Figure: Yarn Guide

7. MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.

Figure: MPF Wheel

8. Feeder Ring: It is a ring where all feeders are pleased together.

Figure: Feeder Ring


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9. Positive Feeder: Positive Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.

Figure: Positive Feeder

10. Needle

The fundamental element of construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle, during yarn

feeding, the hook is opened to release the old loop and to receive the new loop which is then

enclosed in the hook. The new loop is then drawn by the hook through the old loop which slides over

the outside of the closed hook.

There are mainly three types of needle-

1. The bearded needle.

2. The latch needle.

3. The compound needle. According to the butt position Latch needles are four types-

1. One butt latch needle

2. Two butt latch needle

3. Three butt latch needle

4. Four butt latch needle

Figure: Needle


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11. Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.

Figure: Needle Track

12. Needle Detector: This part is detected the any type of faults of needles.

Figure: Needle Detector

13. Sinker

The sinker is the second knitting elements. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a

collective action operation approximately at right from the hook side between adjacent needles.

Figure: Sinker

14. Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring where all sinkers are pleased together.

Figure: Sinker Ring

15. Cam

Cams are the third primary knitting elements which cover the rotary machine drive into a

suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other elements. The cams are carefully profiled to

produce precisely timed movement and dwell periods. The drive transmitted and adapted via cam

followers, leavers, pivots and rocking shafts. One complete 360° revolution of the driver shaft is

equivalent to one knitting cycle. Two types of cam:


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1. Engineering cams

2. Knitting cams

A. Knit cam

B. Tuck cam

C. Miss cam

Figure: Cam

16. Cam Box: Where the cams are set horizontally

.

Figure: Cam box

17. Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.

Figure: Cylinder


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18. Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.

Figure: Cylinder

19. Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear and feeding to the machine.

Figure: Lycra Attachment Device

20. Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is

break.

Figure: Lycra Stop Motion

21. Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles,

cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction

separates the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil.

Figure: Uniwave Lubrication

22. Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fiber from yarn and others. To clean the dust

by air flow.


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Figure: Adjustable Fan

23. Expander:

To control the width of the knitted fabrics. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even take

down tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is achieved over the entire

fabric width. The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.

Figure: Expander

24. Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.

Figure: Air Gun nozzle


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6.9. Types of knitted Fabric Produce in Sadma

6.10. Design Development by Changing Different Cam Setting

Fabric Cam design

Single Jersey K K K

Single pique K T

T K

Double pique K K T T

T T K K

Single Jersey

Single Jersey

Single Jersey (Lycra)

Single Jersey (Auto Stripe)

Pique

Single Pique

Double Pique

Pique (Auto Stripe)

Interlock

Interlock

Interlock (Cotton)

Interlock (PC)

Rib

1×1Rib

2×2Rib

2×1Rib

Fleece

Fleece

Terry Fleece

Lacoste

Single Lacoste

Double Lacoste

Lacoste (Auto Stripe)


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Single lacost K K T K

T K K K

Double lacost K K K T T K

T T K K K K

Terry fleece K T K M

K M K M

K M K T

Fleece K K T K M

K K M K M

K K M K T

Rib Dial: K K

K K

Cylinder: K K

K K

Interlock Dial: K M

M K

Cylinder: K M

M K

Note: K= Knit cam, T= Tuck cam, M= Miss cam

6.11. Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and

quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as

follows.

Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

Finished G.S.M.

Yarn count

Types of yarn (combed or carded)


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Diameter of the fabric.

Stitch length

Color depth.

6.12. Production Calculation

Production/Shift in Kg

Machine RPM × Feeders × Stitch length × Efficiency × 60 × 8

Yarn count × 840 × 36 × 2.54 × 2.2048

Length of Fabric Produce per shift (in meter)

𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑒𝑠𝑒 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑖𝑛 × 60 × 8 × 𝐸𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦

𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑒𝑠𝑒 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 100

Fabric Width in meter

𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑜. 𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑒𝑒𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝑢𝑠𝑒𝑑 𝑖𝑛 𝐾𝑛𝑖𝑡𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔

𝑊𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 100

6.13. Production Parameter

Machine Diameter

Machine rpm (revolution per minute)

No. of feeds or feeders in use

Count of yarn

Machine Gauge

Required time (M/C running time)

Machine running efficiency

6.14. Important Parameter & Their Effect in Fabric Production

1. Stitch length

Stitch length increase, GSM decrease.

Stitch length decrease ,GSM increase

2. GSM


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Grey GSM should be less than finished GSM

GSM increase with decrease of stitch length and it is adjusted by Variable Dia Quality

(VDQ) pulley.

Color

If shrinkage increase then GSM increase.

3. Count GSM depends on yarn count

4. Gauge If gauge decrease then stitch length increase.

5. Feeder Production increase with increase of number of feeder.

6. Design

Cam setting

Set of needle

Size of loop shape.

6.15. Faults with their Causes and Remedies in Knitting

1. Hole Mark.

Causes:

Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.

Badly knot or splicing.

Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:

Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

Use proper count of yarn.

Correctly set of yarn feeder.

Knot should be given properly.


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2. Needle Mark:

Causes:

When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark:

Causes:

When sinker corrodes due to abrasion then sometimes can‟t hold a new loop as a result

sinker mark comes.

If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.

4. Star Mark:

Causes:

Yarn tension variation during production.

Buckling of the needle latch.

Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches:


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Causes:

Defective needle.

If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle

hook.

Take-down mechanism too loose.

Insufficient yarn tension.

Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight & well.

Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.

Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.

Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain:

Causes:

When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:

Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain:

Causes:

If any rust on the machine parts.

Remedies:

If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.

Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.


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8. Pin hole:

Causes:

Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

Change the needle.

9. Grease stain:

Causes:

Improper greasing

Excess greasing

Remedies:

Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out:

Causes:

Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an

empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the

hook of the following needles.

Remedies:

Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.


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11. Fly:

Causes:

In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low

twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly

during knit fabric production.

Remedies:

Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.

By cleaning the floor continuously.

By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.

13. Yarn contamination:

Causes:

If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

If lot, count mixing occurs.

Remedies:

By avoiding lot, count mixing.

Fault less spinning.

.

14. Yarn Faults:

Neps.

Slubs.

Yarn count.

Thick/Thin place in yarn.

Hairiness

6.16. Quality Assurance System of Knitting

After collecting fabric rolls from different machine these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by

the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey

fabric in described here.


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Set fabric roll in machine

↓

Run the machine

↓

Check the faults

↓

Record the faults

↓

Accept / Reject

↓

Send for next process

6.18. Fabric Inspection Machine

Figure: Fabric Inspection Machine


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6.19. Faults are detected By Inspection

Hole Drop stitch Oil stain

Needle mark Pin hole Missing yarn

Sinker mark Broken needle Stripe

Slub Thick & Thin place Tight course

Wrong ply Wrong design Lycra out

6.20. Point Distribution for Different kinds of Fault

Calculation of Total point Length:

43055× Fabric Weight (kg)

Finish dia × Finish GSM

Calculation of Class %

3600×Total Points

Total Point Length × Finish dia

Slub 2

Yarn Contra 2

Oil Spot 2

Think/Thin 2

Patta 3

Any Hole 4

Setup 4

Lycra Out 4


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Quality Classification:

Grade Range %

A <20

B 20-30

C Above 30


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CHAPTER-7

Batching Section


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7.1. Batching

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a

Particular lot of a Particular order. Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above

criteria under consideration. Batch section‟s in charge receives this primary batch plan from

dyeing Manager. Sometime Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.

7.2. Batch Process Follow-Up

Grey Fabric Inspection

Batching

Fabric Turning

Stitch the fabric

Storing for dyeing

7.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection

A. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done on

each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.

B. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points

made to insure proper grading.

C. All fabric must meet specifications.

D. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the

piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and

upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.

E. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the

lower quality.

F. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of

one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last

2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.

G. Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in

the grading of fabric.

H. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.

I. All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.

J. Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more

than 2 inches.

K. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All

defects will be counted in tubular goods.


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7.4. Object of Batching

1. To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.

2. Turn the grey fabric if require.

3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-

a) Order sheet (Received from buyer)

b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

c) M/C capacity

d) M/C available

e) Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)

f) Emergency

4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

7.5. Types of Batching

1. Assod Method

2. Solid Method

7.6. Proper Batching Criteria

To use the maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.

To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.

To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.

To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

7.7. Machine in Batch Section

1. Air turning m/c

Origin: Bangladesh

Figure: Air Turning Machine


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2. Best Leader Machine

Model: TI-02

Origin: China

Figure: Fabric Inspection Machine


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CHAPTER-8

Lab Dip Section


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8.1. Lab Dip

Lab dip may be a method by that consumers provided piece of material is matched with the

variable dyes share within the laboratory with or while not facilitate of “DATA COLOR”. Lab dip

plays a vital role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and

chemicals are to be employed in the massive scale of production therefore this can be a vital task

before bulk production.

There are different matching systems followed in Labs .They are-

1. Tube light matching.

2. Sun light matching.

3. Ultra Violet matching.

4. Sodium light matching (show room).

8.2. Objective of Lab Dip

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer.

To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.

Finally approved lab dip (Grade: A,B,C&D)

8.3. Process Sequence of Lab Dip

Lab Dip Requisition from buyer

↓

Entry in the computer

↓

First recipe is given by swatch/pantone number

↓

First correction

↓

Second correction

↓

Grading of sample (A, B, C, D)

↓

Yarn and knit sample send to buyer


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↓

Approved by buyer

↓

Order for bulk production

↓

Production card with approved sample and recipe send to production section.

8.4. Organogram of Lab Section

8.5. .Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab

The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -

Amount of dye soln (ml) = Shade % × Sample Weight

Stock Solution%

Manager

Lab In-charge

Supervisor

Senior technician

Technician

Operator

Helper


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Example -

In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm

Shade % = 2%

[ If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes ] then ,

Amount of dye soln (ml) = 2×5 = 20 ml .

0.5

The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow -

Amount of chemical soln (ml) = Recipe Amount (g/l) × Total Liquor

1000 × Stock Solution%

Example -

In recipe, Fabric weight = 5 gm

Salt = 20 g/l

M: L = 1: 10

[ If taken 25 % stock soln of salt ] then ,

Amount of chemical soln (ml) = 20 × 50

1000 × 0. 25

= 4 ml 8.6. Stock Solution

Available Stock Solutions:

Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).

8.7. Preparation

To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.

To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.

To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.

To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.


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8.8. Dyeing Procedure in Lab

Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric (5 gm)

↓

Recipe making

↓

Select dyes

↓

Dyeing

↓

Hot wash

↓

Neutralization

↓

Soaping

↓

Cold wash

↓

Drying

↓

Match with standard sample (Yes)

↓

Bulk production

Sequence of dyeing polyester /cotton fabric in lab:


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Select bleach fabric (5 gm)

↓

Carbonizing of cotton part

↓

Fabric weight measure after carbonized part

↓

Recipe making

↓

Select dyes

↓

Dyeing of polyester part

↓

Matching dyed polyester part with std. (Yes)

↓

Hot wash

↓

Reduction clearing

↓

Soaping

↓

Neutralization

↓

Cold wash

↓

Dyeing of cotton part

↓

Hot wash


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↓

Soaping

↓

Neutralization

↓

Cold wash

↓

Drying

↓

Total sample match with standard sample (Yes)

↓

Bulk production

(Note: Cellulose fiber dissolves in 70% H2SO4 acid solution when treated at 250c for 10′)

8.9. Instrumental Color matching Process


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Spectrophotometer flow Chart:

8.10. Spectrophotometric measurement

Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to.

It is another to the visual technique of assessment by gray Scale. the color of the specimen

that has been subjected to the color fastness take a look at and also the color of a creative

specimen area unit measured instrumentally by spectrophotometric measure.

The CIE LAB coordinates for lightness L*, chroma C* and hue H* for both specimens are

measured.

The total color difference value AE* which is the function of AL *, AC*, AH * are

calculated and converted to a Grey, Scale by means of a series of equations or by the

following table

Table for Grey Scale Color Change Step Values according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure

(7)

Triangle shade

Initial recipe

Laboratory

dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to

match

OK

Production

dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to

match

Recipe correction

Not matched

Production

correction

Not matched

Input database

History of the lab

Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM

Finish

Finished

OK


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8.11. Functions of spectrophotometer

Color difference.

Reflectance curve.

Mesmerism.

Shade library.

Pass/fail operation.

Fastness rating.

Cost comparison.

8.12. Color Measurement of Standard Sample

Color menstruation is principally in dire straits the aim of shade matching as attainable.

Shade matching of the created sample with the quality sample with the quality one is obligatory.

Color menstruation may be done by two methods

Color Measurement

Manual Method Instrumental Method


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Figure: Color Measurement of Standard Sample

In manual technique, the std. sample‟s color is measured by scrutiny it with antecedently made

samples of various tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with that the color of the std.

matched, that sample‟ color instruction is being taken for shade matching. This method‟s accuracy

utterly depends on the vision of the person associated with it however person should be required

gather expertise regarding color matching. The instrumental technique is additional reliable if it's

operated accurately to try to the work of color mensuration. “Spectrophotometer” interfaced with a

laptop is employed for shade matching. This instrument works with the principle of coefficient

menstruation of sunshine at completely different wave length. once the quality sample is being

subjected beneath photometer, then the instrument recommend a instruction with needed tri-

chromatic colors inside the tolerance limit of color distinction. during this method, color mensuration

of the quality sample is applied for the aim of shade matching.

8.12. Machine Specification in Section

Machine name : Sample Dyeing m/c

Machine quantity: 02

Brand : Son-tech

Origin : China

Machine name : Spectrophotometer


Brand : Datacolor

Model : 650

Origin : China

Machine name : Color assessment cabinet


Brand : TILO


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Model : T60-(5)

Origin : China

Machine name : Rubbing Fastness Tester


Brand : Paramount

Origin : India

Machine name : Wash Fastness Tester

Machine quantit : 01

Brand : F & P

Origin : China


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CHAPTER-9 DYEING SECTION


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9.1. Layout of Dyeing Floor

2

3

6

1

4

7

5

9

8

10

11

12

13

14

Batch

section

15 16 17 18 19

Road

Road

Office

ENTRY

EXIT


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9.2. Dyeing Machine Specification

M/C No. Brand Origin Capacity Temperature

rang

1 Fong‟s China 700Kg Up to 100OC




5 Texlink China 600Kg Up to 140OC



8 Dilmenler Turkey 1050Kg Up to 140OC







15 Color Self China 200Kg Up to 140OC

16 Son-tech China 100Kg Up to 140OC





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9.3. Specification and Images of Dyeing & Finishing Machine

Technical data of Texlink Sample Dyeing Machine

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 01

Capacity 30 kg

M/C Type High Temperature

& Pressure

Temperature Up to 130°C

Utility Electricity, Steam

and Water.

Figure: Texlink Sample Dyeing m/c Figure: Color Seft Sample Dyeing m/c

Brand Name Color Seft

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 01

Capacity 80 kg

M/C Type High Temperature

& Pressure



and Water.


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Technical Data of Texlink Dyeing Machine

Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 06

Capacity 1200 kg

M/C Type Normal



and Water.

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 06

Capacity 1600 kg

M/C Type Normal



and Water.


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Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of

Nozzle

06

Capacity 1200 kg

M/C Type High

temperature &

pressure


Utility Electricity,

Steam and

Water.

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 01

Capacity 100 kg

M/C Type High temperature &

pressure



and Water.


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Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Fongs Dyeing m/c

Brand Name Texlink

Origin China

No. of

Nozzle

02

Capacity 500 kg

M/C Type

Normal



Steam and

Water.

Brand Name FONGS

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 03

Capacity 600 kg

M/C Type Normal



and Water.


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Figure: Texlink Dyeing m/c Figure: Fongs Dyeing m/c

Brand Name WOOYANG

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 03

Capacity 600 kg


pressure



and Water.

Brand Name FONGS

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 02

Capacity 400 kg

M/C Type Normal



Steam and

Water.


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Brand Name MAN MOOL

Origin China

No. of Nozzle 02

Capacity 400 kg

M/C Type High

temperature &

pressure



Steam and

Water.

Figure: Man mool Dyeing m/c Figure: Dilmenlar Dyeing m/c

Brand Name DILENLAR

Origin Turkey

No. of Nozzle 03

Capacity 1050 kg


pressure



and Water.


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9.4. Operation Procedure

Check list before operation

Check order no and customers name on the batch/job card.

Check types, quality, quantity, and other specification on the batch /job card.

Check fabric and yarn quality and quantity while receiving goods from inspection.

Availability of manpower

Availability of key accessories and other required materials.

Availability of power.

Check machine wise production plan to set priority.

Check list after operation

Check production plan to set the priority

Select 7-8 batches or shaft to prepare

Consult with previous shift to get the required information about the bathes

Check batch card and job card specification (e.g. yarn type ,quality weight etc)for fabric and

collar cuff respectively

Calculate number of bathes, nozzle and rolls to be prepared for each order and specify on the

batch card and the job card. One should be very careful while calculating and entering such

data on this card.

Feed the fabric into the turning machine

Start batching operation and check the following information

Machine no

Number of nozzle to be prepared

Order no

Customer name

GSM

Width

Lot no

Prepare the body fabric of specified weight. this weight must be accurate and each nozzle of

same batch must weight equal to endure even dyeing

Calculate the number of collars/cuffs and attach the collars and cuffs with the body fabric

Write down the weight of each roll on the back of batch card

Check hole mark in each roll for identification

Turn the roll if required

Calculate the total weight very carefully and write it down in the specific area of the batch card

After completion of one batch write „ok‟ as comment at the note section of batch card and send

the batch along with the card to dyeing section.


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9.5. Dyeing Process Definition

Pretreatment

Pretreatment is carried out before dyeing to remove oil, waxes, and fats, natural Coloring matters and

all other impurities and to ensure proper dyeing.

Scouring

Gray fabrics contain fats, waxes, and other impurities. The absorbency of the fabric is adversely

affected due the presence of these impurities .this leads to improper dyeing, printing and finishing in

the subsequent process. These impurities are removed from the fabric by a chemical treatment. This

chemical treatment is called scouring process.

Bio Scouring:

With the increasingly important requirement for textile industries to reduce pollution in textile

production, the use of enzymes in the chemical processing of fibres and textiles is rapidly gaining

wider recognition because of their non-toxic and eco-friendly characteristics. Enzymes were

discovered in the second half of the nineteenth century, and since are routinely used in many

environmentally friendly and economic industrial sectors. There is increasing demand to replace

some traditional chemical processes with

biotechnological processes involving microorganisms and enzymes such as pectinases, xylanases,

cellulases, laccases and ligninases.

Recipe Formulation

Enzymatic scouring was carried out by the following recipe-

Enzyme ...........................................3 g/L or 0.5%

Sequestering agent ...........................1 g/L

Wetting agent ...................................2 g/L

Temperature ....................................60oC

Time ................................................30 min

M: L ................................................1:10

pH ...................................................8 -9


BUBT 84

Bio-scouring Curve

Figure: Process curve of Bio- Scouring

Bio-scouring Procedure:

The required amount of water, chemicals & enzyme were taken for each sample in the individual pot

of Washing and dry cleaning color fastness (Gyro wash).Then the samples were immersed & stirred

properly in the solution of the pots. Then the samples were treated in the Gyro wash according to the

curve.

Bleaching

Bleaching is the process for removing natural nitrogenous coloring matter, i.e. dust, husk, broken

seeds, protein, leaf , etc from the fabric and make it white by oxidizing or chemical treatment .

Scouring & bleaching Objects

To remove fats, wax, impurities from the fabrics.

To increase absorbency of fabric

To obtain pure & permanent color.

To remove natural coloring materials, dirt, dust, broken seed by oxidizing of chemical

treatment

To whiten the fabric.

It helps to produce even shade during dyeing operation.

To impart wet ability of the fabric which is necessary for further treatment and in domestic

uses.


BUBT 85

Washing

Washing is a process to remove waxes, fats, or to increase absorbency of the fabric by chemical

treatment. Washing process specially used only for TC and TTC dark color shade.

9.6. Dyeing process of Cotton

Fabric loaded

↓

Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature)

↓

Adding detergent

↓

Adding Antifoaming agent

↓

Caustic dosing (dosing 6min)

↓

Peroxide dosing (60˚c; 5min)

↓

Run time 1 hour 90˚c

↓

Sample check

↓

If ok

↓

Drain out

↓

Normal hot (70˚c,10min)

↓

Drain


BUBT 86

Continue

↓

Adding Peroxide Killer

↓

Run time 55˚c, 10min

↓

Adding Acetic Acid

↓

Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5)

↓

Adding enzyme

↓

Run time 45-60min, 55˚c

↓

Enzyme hot 80˚c, 10min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank (run time 5min)

↓

Rinsing -4min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.)


BUBT 87

Continue

↓


↓

Salt dosing 20min, 40˚c

↓

Runtime -25min (60˚c)

↓

Sample check

↓

Color dosing 10min, 40˚c

↓

Run time 10-15min

↓

Soda dosing (2 g/l; 20min)

↓

Remaining Soda dosing (30min,pH 10-10.5)

↓

20 min run

↓

Temp rise 80˚c

↓

Run time-1 hour

↓

Sample check

↓

Rinsing-5-10min


BUBT 88

Continue

↓

Drain

↓

Filling the tank

↓


↓

Sample check

↓

Drain

↓

Adding Acetic Acid (Room Temp)

↓

Run time-30min

↓

Sample check

↓

Drain

↓

Filling the tank

↓

Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10 min)

↓

Drain

↓

Sample check


BUBT 89

Continue

↓

Filling the tank

↓

Rinsing (5min room tem)

↓

Drain

↓

Filling the tank

↓

Run time (5min, room tem)

↓

Drain

↓

Sample check

↓

Filling the tank

↓

Dosing-fixing agent (15min)

↓


↓

Sample check

↓


↓

Filling the tank


BUBT 90

Continue

↓

Add Softener

↓

Run time (20min,room tem)

↓

Sample check (If ok)

↓

Unload

9.7. Dyeing Process of CVC of PC

Scouring & Bleaching: Fabric loaded

↓

Chemical: (Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent , Antifoaming agent, Caustic

dosing, Stabilizer) 40˚c; 5min

↓

Add Hydrogen peroxide at 70˚c

↓

Temp. rise at 100˚c.Run time 50min

↓

Temp. down at 80˚c

↓

Hot wash (70˚c,10min)

↓

Cold wash (10min)

↓


BUBT 91

Neutralization by Acetic acid(80˚c,10min pH4.5-5)

↓


↓


↓

Adding enzyme(if required) at 60˚c

↓


↓

Enzyme hot 80˚c, 10min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling the tank

↓

Dyeing of Polyester Part:

Leveling agent + Acetic acid(40˚c,10min pH4.5-5)

↓

Color dosing at 40˚c, 20min (Run time10min)

↓

Temp. raise at 130˚c(Run time 60min)

↓

Cooling at 80˚c

↓

Sample check(if ok)


BUBT 92

↓

Hot wash with reduction cleaning agent (Hydrose+Caustic soda) at 90˚c,10min

↓

Neutralization by Acetic acid

↓

Cold wash 10min

↓

Dyeing of Cotton Part:

Adding Leveling agent (40˚c,10min)

↓

Salt inject at 400c, Run time 20min pH 6-6.5

↓

Color dosing at 40˚c, D.t 30min (Run time20min)

↓

Soda dosing at 40˚c, D.t 30min (Run time20min)

↓

Temp. raise at 60˚c(Run time 60min)

↓

Sample check(if ok)

↓

Cold wash

↓

Normal hot wash at 40˚c,Run time 10min

↓

Neutralization by Acetic acid at 50˚c,10min

↓


BUBT 93

Hot wash with washing agent(70˚-90˚)c,10min

↓

Cold wash

↓

Add Fixing agent at 40˚c, Run time 10-15min

↓

Add Softener 90˚c, Run time 10-15min

↓

Sample check(Final)

↓

Unload

9.8. Process Sequence of Critical Shade (Turquoise Color)

Fabric loaded

↓

Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature)

↓

Adding detergent

↓

Adding Antifoaming agent

↓

Caustic dosing (dosing 6min)

↓

Peroxide dosing (60˚c; 5min)

↓

Run time 1 hour 95˚c

↓


BUBT 94

Sample check

↓

If ok

↓

Drain out

↓


↓

Drain

↓


↓


↓

Adding Acetic Acid

↓

Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5)

↓

Adding enzyme

↓

Run time 1hour, 55˚c

↓

Enzyme hot- 70˚c, 10min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank (run time 5min)


BUBT 95

↓

Rinsing -4min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.)

↓

10min run time (R.T.)

↓

10min run time (60˚c)

↓

Color dosing-30min

↓

10min run

↓

½ Salt dosing-5min

↓

½ Salt dosing -5min

↓

Runtime -25min (60˚c)

↓

Sample check

↓

Soda dosing (2 g/l; 20min)

↓


BUBT 96

Remaining Soda dosing (30min)

↓

20 min run

↓

Temp rise 80˚c

↓

Run time-1 hour

↓

Rinsing-5min

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Run time (RT)

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Normal hot (60k˚c,10min)

↓

Sample check

↓

Drain

↓

Adding Acetic Acid (room temp ,run time-30min)


BUBT 97

↓

Sample check

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10 min)

↓

Drain

↓

Sample check

↓

Filling in the tank

↓


↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓


↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓


BUBT 98

Dosing-fixing agent (15min)

↓


↓

Sample check

↓

Drain

↓

Filling in the tank

↓

Dosing softener (5min)

↓

Run time (20min,room tem)

↓

Sample check(Final)

↓

Unload

9.9. Some Important Parameter for Dyeing

Stripping:

When it is impossible to control the levelness need to remove all colors from the fabric is

called stripping.

Stripping Chemical:

Invatex CRA(Detergent agent)

Soda (Scouring agent)

ATS (Antifoaming)

Optavan ( Sequestering agent)

Invalom Dam(Anti creasing agent)

Hydrose (Reduction agen


BUBT 99

Topping: Hot wash, neutralization, then again dyeing process is performed.

Addition: Without dropping Bath color is added to bath.

Re-dyeing : After stripping Process fabric is dyed again. Stripping is the part of re dyeing process.

9.10. Common Dyeing Fault with their Remedies

1. Crease mark

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope

Shock cooling of synthetic material

If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal

Due to high speed m/c running

Remedies:

Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

Reducing the m/c load

Higher liquor ratio

2. Uneven dyeing

Causes:

Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).

Improper color dosing.

Using dyes of high fixation property.

Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.

Lack of control on dyeing m/c

Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment.

By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.

Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.

Proper controlling of dyeing m/c


BUBT 100

3. Batch to Batch Shade variation

Causes:

Fluctuation of Temperature.

Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.

Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.

Dyes lot variation.

Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.

Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals.

Maintain the same liquor ratio.

Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.

Maintain the same dyeing cycle.

Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the

Shade.

Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time

and temperature in the process.

The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should

check daily.

4. Patchy dyeing effect

Causes:

Entanglement of fabric.

Faulty injection of alkali.

Improper addition of color.

Due to hardness of water.

Due to improper salt addition.

Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.

Uneven heat in the machine, etc.

Remedies:

By ensuring proper pretreatment.

Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.

Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.

Proper salt addition.

5. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:

Causes:

Poor migration property of dyes.

Improper dyes solubility.

Hardness of water.

Faulty m/c speed, etc


BUBT 101

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals.

Proper m/c speed.

Use of soft water

6. Dye spot

Causes:

Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.

Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.

Remedies:

By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals

By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh

strainer, so that the

large un-dissolved particles are removed

7. Wrinkle mark

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope

Shock cooling of synthetic material

High temperature entanglement of the fabric

Remedies:


Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature

Higher liquor ratio

8. Softener Mark

Causes:

Improper mixing of the Softener.

Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.

Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Remedies:


Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.

Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener


BUBT 102

9. Pilling

Cause:

Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric.

Excess speed during processing.

Excess foam formation in the dye bath.

Remedies:

By using of a suitable chemical lubricant.

By using antifoaming agent.

10. Fabric distortion and increase in width

Cause:

Too high material speed.

Low liquor ratio.

Remedies:

By decreasing both nozzle pressure and winch speed.


BUBT 103

CHAPTER-10

FINISHING SECTION


BUBT 104

10.1. Introduction of Finishing

Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such the simplest way that the

merchandise has needed} properties required for its meant use and thus has nice market price. the

required properties could embody the material dimensions and their stability, its weight, drape,

appearance, softness and handle, additionally as any needed purposeful properties like resistance to

creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacterium. Textile finishing is so a very various field involving an

intensive vary of chemicals. The degree of permanence of a selected end for a cloth depends on its

meant use. The chemicals used could weigh the material to form it straightforward to slip and handle,

or permit sleek penetration of a stitching needle to attenuate needle breakage. Anyone concerned in

textile coloration should bear in mind of the influence of preparation method on the coloring

behavior of the materials additionally because the finishing chemicals on the ultimate color of the

products and on their color fastness properties. while not this information, no one will make sure the

final color and its fastness properties.

10.2. Objective of Finishing

Improving the appearance. Luster, whiteness, etc.

Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,

suppleness, fullness, etc.

Wearing qualities, none soiling, anti crease, anti shrink, comfort, etc.

Special properties required for particular uses. Water proofing, flame proofing, etc.

Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of Finishing

1. Chemical finishing.

2. Mechanical finishing.

10.3. Different Finishing Machine in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Machine description of Finishing Section

Serial

No

Name of machine

Brand name

Origin

1 Squeezer machine Bianco Italy

2 Squeezer machine Dong Nam Korea

3 Hydro extractor F & P China

4 Slitting machine Bianco Italy

5 Dryer Tung Yang Taiwan


BUBT 105

6 Dryer Alkan Turkey

7 Compactor(Tubular) Navis USA

8 Compactor(Open) Bianco Italy

9 Stenter machine Bianco Italy

10 Stenter machine HASGROUR Turkey

11 Tumble Dryer F & P China

12 Washing machine F & P China

13 Fabric Inspection

machine Best Leader Chin

10.4. Observation of Different Finishing Machine

Function, important parts and controlling points are described here.

10.5. Squeezer of De-Watering Machine

After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for de-watering. This

is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the main function of

the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of the fabric quality.

The basic function of the squeezing machine

To remove the water from the fabric.

To control the width of the fabric.

To control the length of the fabric.

To increase the softness of the fabric.

To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

To control the spairelity of the fabric.

To control the over feeding system.

Figure: Squeezer Machine

Important parts

Twist detector

Expander

Padder


BUBT 106

Controlling Points

A. Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Padder pressure depends on

fabric construction.

B. Diameter setting must be accurate.

C. Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.

D. Overfeed

E. Speed must be optimum.

10.6. Dryer

Drying is a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.

The basic function of the dryer

To dry the fabric.

To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)

To control the GSM of the fabric.

Important Parts

Chamber

Burner

Conveyor net

Filter net

Fan

Nozzle

Exhaust air fan

Over feed roller

Figure: Dryer Machine

Controlling Points

Temperature: dependable on color.

Overfeed (%): dependable on fabric structure

Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the speed.


BUBT 107

10.7. Tube Compactor

The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine

To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).

To control the dia.

To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).

Important parts

Overfeed roller

Expander

Blanket

Steam sprayers

Cylinder

Teflon covers

Figure: Tube Compactor

Controlling Points

Temperature: It depends on construction and composition &color of the fabric.

Speed: It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

Blanket Pressure : Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

Over feed : Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over feed

leads to the formation of crease mark.

Observation of tube compacter setting for different fabric

Fabric

parameter

Single jersey

1 x 1 Rib

Collar, Cuff

Compector 30 30 N/A

Overfeed 5 12 N/A

Padder pressure 30 bar 30 bar 18 bar

Speed 18 m/min 18 m/ min 15 m/min

Temperature 100oC 100

oC 100

oC


BUBT 108

10.8. Slitting Machine

Main Function of slitting machine

To open the tube forms of fabric

To squeeze the fabric and remove the extra water in the fabric.

Important parts

Twist detector

Cutting knife/device

Padder

Figure: Slitting Machine

Controlling Points

Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement.

Speed-The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)

10.9. Stenter Machine

Stenters are widely used for stretching, drying, heat-setting and finishing of Fabrics. The

stenter frame is usually 80-100 feet long and 70-100 inches wide. The speed ranges from 10-45

m/min with a maximum setting time in the setting zone 30 sec at temperature ranging from 175

to 250~ depending upon the thickness and type of the material.

The basic functions of the Stenter machine

To control width.

To control GSM.

To control spirality.

Drying of fabric.

To remove edge curl of the fabric

To remove the crease mark of the fabric

To remove the hardness of the fabric

To increase the better shade properties. Figure: Stenter Machine


BUBT 109

Controlling Points

Temperature: It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric. For S/J

the temp is 150°C and 170°C for stripe fabrics.

Over feed: Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.

Width setting: Higher width setting reduces the GSM.

Speed: It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric

Observation of stenter setting for different fabric

Fabric

Parameter

Single jersey

L – Rib

P.K.

F/T

Required Dia 88‟‟ 80” 54” 80”

Actual Dia 90.5” 88” 67” 84”

Required GSM 160 240 210 240

Actual GSM 148 218 185 232

Temperature 180oC 200

oC 180

oC 190

oC

Overfeed 60% 45% 60% 40%

Machine speed 20 18 18 16

Dia setting 2310 mm 2400 mm 1720 mm 2150 mm

10.10. Open Compactor

The basic functions of the Open compactor machine

To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).

To control the dia.

To control the shrinkage.

Important parts

Over-feed roller

Blanket

Steam sprayers

Cylinder

Tell on covers Figure: Open Compactor


BUBT 110

Controlling Points

Temperature: It depends on construction and composition & color of the

fabric.

Speed: It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

Blanket Pressure: Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

Over feed: Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but high over feed leads

to the formation of crease mark.

Observation of open compactor setting for different fabric

Fabric

parameter

Single jersey

CVC S/J

L – Rib

P.K.

F/T

Required Dia 88‟‟ 92” 80” 104” 80”

Actual Dia 90” 94” 84” 108” 84”

Finished Dia 89” 93” 82” 106” 82”

Required GSM 160 180 240 200 240

Actual GSM 150 170 210 190 230

Finished GSM 155 175 220 200 240

Overfeed 12 12 10 12 10

Temperature 80oC 80

oC 80

oC 80

oC 80

oC


The finished material could have totally different forms of faults. This could occur throughout

Knitting, coloring or finishing. If the material delivered then the standard of the material might not

be smart and therefore the emptor can reject the finished clothes. For this reason careful scrutiny of

this finished material is therefore vital. In finished material the subsequent faults square measure

typically found.


BUBT 111

Fabric inspection report

Here, 4- purpose system is employed for inspecting merchandise. Spinning knitting and

process faults square measure inspected and noncommissioned here, commons faults that square

measure found here square measure yarn, containing slub, neps hole, needle mark, niuker mark

lyera miss/out, oil stain , crease mark, chemical mark, color spot mark, Bowing mark etc.

10.12. Fault Point System

Fault size Points

3 inches or less 1 Points

Over 3 inches to 6 inches 2 Points

Over 6 inches to 9 inches 3 Points

Over 9 inches 4 Points

Acceptance

Up to 40 Points =A

41-60Points =B

61-80Points =C

80 above = Rejected

Calculation

𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 100 𝑠𝑞𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑒 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑑 =𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑑

𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑅𝑜𝑙𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡𝑕×

36

𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡𝑕100

= Total fault (%).


BUBT 112

CHAPTER-11

Garments Section


BUBT 113

11.1. Garments

The garments production processing steps and techniques involved in the manufacturing for

the large scale of production in industrial basis for business purposes is called garments

manufacturing technology.

11.2. Garment Machinery & Equipment


BUBT 114

11.3. Garments Manufacturing Process

This is the Basic Production Flow chart of a garment. In advance some of the process can be added

or removed.


BUBT 115

11.4. Sewing Sequence of T- Shirt

Number matching front to back part

↓

Solder stitching (By Over lock m/c)

↓

Neck rib truck (By Plain m/c)

↓

Neck rib sewing (By Plain m/c)

↓

Neck rib join with body part

↓

Neck top sin

↓

Solder to solder back tip

↓

Size label sewing

↓

Solder to solder back sin

↓

Sleeve marking and number matching with body part

↓

Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)

↓

Sleeve joint with the body part

↓

Side sewing and care label joint

↓


BUBT 116

Bottom hem tuck (At the end side)

↓

Bottom hem sewing

↓

Arm bottom hem joint

↓

Inspection

11.5. Sewing Sequence of a Polo Shirt

Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing

↓

Collar marking for open stitch

↓

Collar inside open stitch

↓

Collar marking

↓

Collar 1/4 top sin

↓

Collar cutting

↓

Band rolling

↓

Band joint with Collar

↓

Band top sin 1/6

↓


BUBT 117

Placket lining

↓

Placket marking

↓

Placket rolling

↓

Placket joint

↓

Placket top sin 1/6

↓

Placket pattern top sin

↓

Placket pattern top sin 1/6

↓

Box sewing

↓

Pocket rolling

↓

Pocket iron

↓

Pocket marking

↓

Pocket joint with body

↓

Yoke joint with back part

↓

Yoke ¼ top sin


BUBT 118

↓

Back & front part matching number

↓

Solder joint

↓

Solder top sin

↓

Collar and body number matching

↓

Collar joint with body part

↓

Collar top sin in joining point

↓

Sleeve marking

↓

Sleeve over lock

↓

Sleeve rolling

↓

Sleeve pair matching

↓

Sleeve and body matching

↓

Sleeve body tuck

↓

Sleeve joint with body part

↓


BUBT 119

Sleeve marking for batch

↓

Sleeve batch joint (Left & Right side)

↓

Body marking for batch

↓

Batch joint with body part

↓

Label marking

↓

Label ironing

↓

Main label joint with back side

↓

Sleeve opening tuck

↓

Body hem sewing

↓

Care label sewing

↓

Side joint

↓

Band tuck

↓

Band tape joint

↓

Band top sin


BUBT 120

↓

Sleeve chap tuck

↓

Inspection

11.6. Garments Accessories

Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric the other materials are

known as accessories. For garments making there are some accessories are commonly used.

Garments Accessories:

Thread

Interlining

Lining

Button (Snap button, Plastic button, Metal button etc.)

Label (Main Label, Size Label, Care Label)

Motif (Leather, Plastic, Metal)

Pocketing fabric

Velcro

Elastic

Cord

Ribbon

Toggles

Zipper

Rivet

Collar bone

Finishing Accessories

Hang tag

Price tag

Plastic / Poly bag

Tissue paper

Carton

Scotch tape

PP belt

Tag pin

Plastic clip

Sticker

Butterfly

Collar insert

Back board

Neck insert


BUBT 121

11.7. Description of Process Sequences

1. Garments design, Sketch and Measurement sheet Garments design, sketch and measurement

sheet is given by the buyer to the sellers. Buyers make a design of required garments with

sketch having all the required accessories and trimmings. They also provide a measurement sheet

of different sizes. All these including name as merchandising details sheet. After getting these

requirements pattern master makes a pattern for sample making of different sizes. In these there are

also manufacturing details with the help of all required accessories and trimmings.

2. Pattern: The individual part of a garment which is shaped by a hard paper like drawing sheet is

called pattern. It is classified into 2 types as follows-

Working pattern: The pattern which is used to make sample garment is called working or

master pattern.

Production pattern: The pattern which is used for bulk production is called production pattern.

Pattern grading: After developing pattern, pattern master decreases or increases master pattern

stepwise, it is called pattern grading. Like this-

S ↔M↔L↔XL

Before making a sample pattern making according to sketch and measurement or directly from

sample is very important. The construction of pattern is done by two methods like-

a. Manual construction of pattern

b. Computer aided construction of pattern

In Sadma Fashion Wear, they use manual methods of construction of pattern. During manual or

computer aided construction of pattern the pattern draft is developed by calculation based on the

following instructions-

a. Actual body size

b. Size charts or sample

c. Grading increment

d. Easy allowances

On pattern the following instructions must be marked-

Name of the pattern

Style

Size

Grain direction

CFL & CBL

Seam allowances

Balance mark


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The following tools and equipment are used for pattern construction-

Working surface

Paper

Pencils

Eraser

Marker pen

French curves

Compass

Set square

Scissors

Measuring tape

Rubber, scale, scotch tape etc.

3. Sample Garment

The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are

used to sew the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by very efficient and

technically sound person.

To make sample garment for buyer approval.

To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed.

4. Production pattern

The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern.

During production pattern making, sometimes patterns design may be modified if buyer or

authority suggests any minor modification.

5. Grading

Normally for large scale of production of any style needs different sizes to produce from asset of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

6. Marker Making

Marker is defined as a large thin paper which contents all required patterns pieces of

different sizes for a particular style of apparels.

Marker is made by following steps-

Pattern are placed onto a large thin sheet

Then marked by pen around the pattern

First place big part & small part are placed at the end position

Finally found a marker


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Marker is made of fulfill the following objects-

To get similarities among the apparel To save times To minimized fabric wastage To reduce cost

Marker is made by two methods as follows-

1. Manual method

2. Computerized method

Depending on making of marker it has the following types as follows-

One way marker

Two way marker

Interactive marker

Auto marker

Paper marker

Fabric marker

Whole garment marker

Single size marker

Multi size marker

During marker making the following points should be checked-

a. Pattern direction b. Pattern alignment c. Parts missing d. Mismatched checks or stripes e. Overlapping f. Marker too width than fabric. g. Poor line marking. h. Double line marking. i. Pattern to pattern distance. j. Notches and drills marks are omitted

7. Fabric spreading

Fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of fabric with respect to marker length and width which is specified. When spreading is done the following basic requirements maintained-

- Alignment of plies

- Correct or uniform ply tension

- Smooth surface of fabric

- Static electricity is not formed during spreading

- Fusion free for synthetic fabric


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- Matching of stripe or check

- Distortion free of plies

There are two methods used for spreading-

1. Manual method

2. Mechanical method

In Sadma they use manual method of spreading. Problems may occur during spreading-

- Misalignment of plies

- Mismatching checks or stripes

- Wrong direction of plies

- Incorrect tension of plies

- Fabric relaxation

- Narrow width fabric

- Shaded fabrics

8. Fabric Cutting

On the spread fabric the marker is placed carefully and accurately and pined with the

fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight

knife cutting machine is used to cut the garment component as per exact dimension of

each patterns, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.

During cutting of fabric the following flow chart is followed-


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9. Sewing /Assembling

Sewing is defined as an operation by an operator through a m/c named sewing m/c which

used sewing thread to sew the fabric by forming stitch in the way of interloping, interlacing of sewing

thread. To sew a fabric by sewing m/c needle along with sewing thread is used. So to sew a

fabric needle, sewing thread are important elements.

12.5. Sewing Problems

There are various types of sewing problems found in sewing floor. Among these problems

the following are the main -

1. Problem of formation: It has four types as follows -

1. Supplied stitch

Causes:

Loop size of needle is small Bent needle Tension variation of looper and needle thread.

2. Staggered stitch (Stitch line is not parallel with seam line)

Causes:

Bent needle Wrong needle point Improper needle adjust

3. Unbalanced stitch (If bobbin thread does not work, it produces hole & forms this stitch)

Causes:

Incorrect tension of sewing thread Incorrect passage of thread through guide Insufficient lubrication

4. Frequent thread breakage

Causes:

Improper unwinding

Higher thread tension

Excess heating

Lower quality thread


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2. Seam pucker: It is caused for five purposes as follows-

a. Unequal stitch on fabric due to limitation of feed m/c b. Fabric dimensional stability due to unequal shrinkage of one ply then other for washing

c. Extension of sewing thread due to tension

d. Sewing thread shrinkage after washing or ironing

e. Compact fabric with high EPI, PPI is caused seam puckering during sewing.

3. Fabric damage at the seam line: It is visible after washing and wear which is mainly caused for

needle bending or improper selection of needle size. This is two types of fabric damage with

needle as follows-

Mechanical damage (m/c speed high)

Needle heating damage (300-350°C)

11.8. Finishing

Finishing Flow-chart-


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11.9. Final Inspection

For complete garment that is not in bundle form, it is recommended that statistical inspection done

based on AQL .The defects may be identified in finished garments:

1. Broken ends

2. Broken picks

3. Reed marks

4. Broken pattern

5. Thick and thin place

6. Rough surface cloth

7. Iron stain

8. Holes in the cloth

9. Shading

10 Shuttle marks

11.10. Garments Merchandising

“Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term

merchandising has been derived from merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought and

sold. The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: Person who merchandises the goods,

specifically for export purpose. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials and accessories,

producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within schedule

time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs

a wide range of knowledge and skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is Technical and

general as well.

1. Quality of a merchandiser

The qualities must be needed of a merchandiser are as following:

Good English speaking & writing skill.

Must have computer knowledge like- MS Word, MS Excel, Internet & E-

mail etc.

Proper knowledge on mathematics.

Sound working capacity always be prepared for any kind of working pressure.

Training is needed for knowing primary knowledge about

merchandising.

Proper knowledge about garments production


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Proper knowledge about Commerce & Banking. Proper knowledge about Shipping line &

Airline.

2. Duties & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser

Dealing with the buyer & convincing the buyer is the main duty of a marketing officer or

merchandiser. A merchandiser also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a

merchandiser are given bellow-

To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.

To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers.

To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officers &

merchandisers.

To maintain communication with the buyers and buying houses.

Communicate with better knowledge of the products.

3. Scope of a Merchandiser

Merchandisers are the key player for generating business for any manufacturing

plants/company.

Merchandisers are responsible for making good profit for the company. Whatever the

nature of business, they are always keen to increase the profit margin for the company.

To maintain a good relationship between all the departments and to get the best output rom

each department is also important and merchandisers play a vital role in getting good

output from each department.

Communication skill is important to maintain an effective communication between all

concerned parties. Corresponding with buyer/agent for all related work i.e. sample

approval, testing, packaging, shipping.

To act as a link between different departments of company for order processing, upplying,

payment collection and other export related documents.

4. Costing/Pricing

Costing is the principal task of any merchandisers.

Methods of Pricing:

1. Calculate the fixed and variable costs associated with the product.

2. Also the cost elements below need to consider during costing.

Pricing for Fibers & Yarns

Pricing for fabric manufacturing

Pricing for garment manufacturing

Cost of accessories Commercial cost


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Break-even point Consumption of fabric and accessories with wastage percentage. Total cost analysis (how much does it cost to provide merchandise to end customer)

11.11. Images of Garments Section

Figure: Sewing Floor


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Figure: Fabric Cutting

Figure: Folding room


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Figure: Ironing Unit

Figure: Packing room


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Figure: Inspection Floor


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CHAPTER-12

QUALITY CONTROL


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12.1. Quality Control

Quality control cares with the analysis of check knowledge and its application to

manage of the textile method, raw materials, intermediate product and final product. It is

involved not solely with quality level and price of maintaining this quality level however

conjointly involved with the presentation of tangible values to live quality and changes in

quality. so as to manage quality one should realize the consumers‟ expectations.

12.2. Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection

At first check the shade as per vendee commonplace with dimensional stability from research

lab.

↓

Secondly check dia / width fabric weight

↓

Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.

↓

The every roll with every meter check (as per four (04) point system)

↓

Make a report.

↓

Send to the buyer

↓

If OK then ready for delivery.

↓

If not OK then identify the fault.

↓

If it's knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail, & requested

the material for replacement.


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↓

If it's coloring fault, then offer job card to coloring department correction. And if isn't utilize

ready then reject the material & inform the coloring department to switch the rejected

amount

12.3. Objects of Quality Control

Selection of raw materials

Specification test

Product testing.

To ensure the product desired quality.

To fulfill requirements for quality.

Process control and development

To control and different techniques will be required by different conditions.

Quality assurance and so on.

To evaluate accurately of the end product.

To research and development

Quality assurance and so on.

12.4. List of Equipments

Computer

Sample Dyeing M/C

Electrical Balance

Light box

Washing M/ C

Shrinkage & Spirality measurement instrument

Electric Heater

PH meter

GSM Cuter


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12.5 Quality Management System

Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-

On Line Test:

Grey Fabric Inspection with 4 point system

Diameter and Width control

Fabric GSM control

Shade Check;

Bias and Bowing;

Stripe.

Visual appearance (Enzyme performance).

Off Line Test:

Off line quality are divided into two groups-

Physical Tests and

Chemical Tests.


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12.6. Textile Testing for Knit Fabric

Color Fastness Test

1. Color fastness to washing-ISO105C06, AATCC.

2. Color fastness to actual-ISO6330, BSEN/ISO26336.

3. Color fastness to rubbing/crocking-ISO105X12, AATCC8.

4. Color fastness to perspiration-ISO105E04,AATCC15

5. Color fastness to water-ISO105E01,AATCC

6. Color fastness to sea water-ISO 105 E02

7. Color fastness to light-ISO105E02

8. Color fastness to saliva & perspiration-DIN 53160

9. Color fastness to saliva-Chinese standard G3/T18886:2002

Shrinkage & related Test

a. Dimensional stability to washing-ISO6330, BSEN ISO 26330.

b. Spirality/skewness-AATCC179, ASTMD 3882.

Fabric / Garments Performance Test

a. Pilling resistance, ICI BOX-ISO 12945-1, BS5811.

b. Abrasion resistance (Martindale method)-ISO 12947-1/2/3/4, ASTM D4966.

c. Pilling resistance (Martindale method)-ISO 12945-2, ASTMD4970.

d. Elongation & modulus-ASTM D4964.

e. Stretch ability of narrow fabric-BS 4952(LINE CONTACT)

f. Stretch & recovery-ASTM D2594.

g. Spandex/lycra slippage(flex test)- Martindale method 15.

Analytical Test

pH value-AATCC81, ISO B071.

Construction Analysis

a. Fabric weight-ASTM D3776, ISO 3801.

b. Stitch density-ASTM D3775, ISO 7211/2.

c. Fabric width- ASTM D3774.


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Fabric / Garments Strength Test

a. Tensile strength-ASTM D5034, 5035, 4964, BS/EN ISO 4952.

b. Tearing strength-ASTM D1424.

c. Bursting strength-ASTM D3786, ISO 13938-1.

d. Seam performance-ASTM D1683, ISO 13935-1 & 2.

Yarn Test

a. Twist-ASTM D1423.

b. Yarn appearance-ASTM D2255.

c. Yarn count-ASTM D1059.

d. Tensile strength (single strand)-ASTM D2256.

e. Tensile strength (skein form)-ASTM D1578.

Other Test

General appearance - AATCC143.

12.7. Quality Control Flow Chart

Yarn receiving

↓

Sample Knitting

↓

Batching

↓

Dyeing (Check shade & Faults)

↓

Dewatering

↓

Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and GSM)

↓


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Compacting

↓

Final inspection

↓

If sample OK go for bulk production

12.8. Quality Assurance

Quality assurance is outlined as all those doable planned and systematic actions necessary

to produce adequate confidence than a product or service can satisfy given necessities for

quality. The standard Assurance Department is allotted to take care of systematically uniform

quality of the fabric in method and numerous stages of its manufacturing.

Quality Assurance at Different Stage

Assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following three steps:

In laboratory

In dyeing section &

In finishing section

Procedures are described below

In laboratory:

Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.

Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement

recipe prediction for sample dyeing

sample dyeing until matching with swatch card

In dyeing section:

During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The

interval may be 30-40 minutes.

According to the buyer‟s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing

machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.

After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.

Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.

If result is OK, then bulk production.

Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.


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In finishing section

By employing a series of finishing machines correct breadth, softness

& look square measure maintained in keeping with needs.

Then sampling is finished for many times to check GSM, Shrinkage

& fastness properties.

Finally cloth is inspected & ready for delivery.

List of equipments:

In the quality assurance department used equipments are as followed-

a. Lab. Dyeing Machine

b. Electronics Balance

c. Rota Wash

d. Iron

e. Crock Meter

f. Spectrophotometer with software (Data Color)

g. PH meter

Fabric Inspection:

The examination of fabric could be a procedure by that the defects of material area unit known

and fabric is classed per degree or intensity of defects. Material |the material examination is

completed for each grey and finished fabric.

Grey Fabric Inspection:

Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.

Finished Fabric Inspection:

4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.

Defects found in the final inspection

Double yarn

Dead cotton


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Uneven shade

Oil spot

Machine Stoppage mark

Neps

Crease mark

Listing

Line mark

Pick missing

Fly yarn contamination

Bowing

12.9. Some Test procedure are Given Below

GSM Test:

GSM is that the most significant issue. there's a GSM Cutter. The Sample is cut then weighted

within the balance. The reading is then (in gm) from the balance, increased by one hundred, to

urge price of GSM.

Finished fabric diameter:

In Knit, coloring finishing, finished diameter is incredibly necessary issue. It ought to be

unbroken because the purchaser necessities. merely a activity tape measures it. Finished diameter

is controlled at compacting m/c.

Color Fastness to Rubbing:

Rubbing fastness is that the resistance to color fading of colored textile, once rubbing against a

rough surface.

Process:

The test specimen size 15cm x 15cm are taken

Then place on the cork meter.

(5cmx5cm) Cotton, desized, bleased but without finished fabric is attached to the

cork meter finger.

Rubbing 10 minutes at 10 second.


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Rubbings are test in two conditions.

Dry condition and

Wet condition

Here gray scales are used and grade the fabric rubbing fastness according to the

gray scale.

Color fastness to wash

The resistance to color loss of any dyed or printed material during wash.

Chemical:

ECE Detergent 4gm/l

Sodium per-borate 1gm/l

Time 30 mine

Temperature 60◦C

Steel balls 25

Solution of chemical 150 ml (From 1 litter ECE or Sodium per borate)

Required materials

a. Sample size 40 x 10 cm

b. Multi-fiber at 40 x 10 cm

c. Sodium Per-borate (Na2BO3.H2O2-1g/L)-1g/L

d. ECE detergent (WOB)-4g/L

e. Normal cold water

f. Distilled water

Required instrument:

Rota wash

Scissor

Stitch machine

Process:

The cut sample sized 4cmx10cm.

Attach the multi-fiber with the sample.

Sample immersed in 150ml solution of ECE or Sodium per-borate and put into

the Rota wash m/c for 30 mine at 60◦C

After that dry on oven.

Here gray scale is used to measurement.


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Changing After wash and before wash the sample.

Staining Color bled from sample to multi-fiber

Water hardness test:

Water

↓ →

Buffer solution

↓ →

Indicators

↓ →

Titration with EDTA solution.

↓

The titration is done until the violate color are reached.

Hardness cause

The presence of Calcium salt and Magnesium salt, that means bi-carbonate, sulphate and

chloride is causes of water hardness.

Types of water hardness

Temporary hardness (Presence of Chlorides or sulphate of Calcium and

Magnesium)

Permanent hardness (Presence of bi- carbonate of Calcium and Magnesium)

5gm

5 drop

1 drop


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Color fastness to light

Purpose

Light fastness is the test design to evaluate the laundering fastness test of dyeing, Pigment which

re to be made in comparison of result obtained on many test pieces treated under light.

Method: ISO

Apparatus:

a. Light fastness tester & blue scale

b. Scale

c. Scissor

d. Hard paper

e. 4cm X 2cm

Process:

Cut the sample specimen into (4X2) cm

Stay the sample into the sun test m/c for 20 hour.

Finally measure the color change with blue wool scale.

Expectable value (5-8)

Result:

The take a look at results of light-weight fastness take a look at is resembling the category of

normal half-dozen.So we will say that the color fastness of unreal material is aver.

Standard Rating

8 Fast

7 Fast

6 Average

5 Average

4 Average

3 Average

2 Not fast

1 Not fast


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Shrinkage test:

M/C Name: Washing m/c

Temperature 40 ◦C

Time (37-40) minutes

Water amount 20 litters

Chemical:

ECE Detergent 20,40,50gm/l (According to the buyer requirement)

Sodium per-borate 5.10gm/l

Process:

At first wash the fabric sample in washing m/c with require chemical at 40◦C on (37-

40) mine.

After that dry the fabric in oven in required temperature.

Before washing the fabric are marked with tame plate or measuring tape.

After washing find out the length, chest, salvage or spirality change.


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Example:

Before After

Length 73 69.5 (73-69.5) =3.5=4.79%

Chest 48 46.5 (48-46.5) =1.5=3.12%

PH Test:

Procedure:

Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces.

Then put it conical flax with 100cc water (M: L -1:50).

Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour.

Then check PH

by PH meter

Color fastness to perspiration-ISO105E04, AATCC15

Perspiration test are two types. As follows-

1. acidic

2. alkali

Acidic:

Solution:

sodium chloride -5gm/l

sodium dihydrozen phosphate dehydrate-2.2 gm/l

L-hesdin monohydrade chloride-0.5 gm/l


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Alkali:

Solution:

sodium chloride -5gm/l

sodium hydrozen phosphate-5 gm/l

L-hesdine -0.5 gm/l

Procedure:

Specimen size: 4×10 cm+ Multifibre

Time: 4 hours

Temp: 37±1

At first the specimen is wet in 1st solution and then put it and again wet in 2 solution

Then it place to the woven. Dry according to the procedure.

Scale: standard scale.


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CHAPTER-13

MAINTANENCES


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13.1. Maintenance

Maintenance could be a method by that instrumentation is taken care of in such the way

that bothers free. Service and accrued machine life will be ensured and specific product quality

needed by the shoppers is sustained. On time maintenance increase m/c period of time &

ensures bother free services. Maintenance of machineries is extremely vital for any sort of

industries and it's should for a knit composite plant. All machines and machine components of

knitting, coloring and clothes are maintained with extreme care. As a result of production quality

and amount, each depends on the upkeep with regularity.

13.2. Objective of Maintenance

To ensure specified accuracy to product & time schedule of delivery to customer.

To keep the factory plants, equipments, machines. Tools in an optimum working

condition.

To keep the machine down time to minimum thus to have control over the production

program.

To modify the machine settings to meet the need for the production.

To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.

13.3. Types of Maintenance

Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance Break Down

Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance


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Description:

Preventive Maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection / checking

of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description.

Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important

parts are done.

Break down maintenance:

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it can‟t perform its normal

functions.

13.4. Maintenance Tools & Equipments

Mechanical Electrical

Pliers

Inside Calipers

Outside Calipers

Digital Millimeter

Heating Shoulder

Hammer

Plies

Gauge

Allen Key Set

Steel Roll

Vermeer Calipers

Lather M/C

Drill M/C

Welding M/C

Spanner Set

Measuring Tape

Crew Driver

Voltmeter

Contact Cleaner

Ammeter


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13.5. Maintenance Procedure

Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure following points should

be checked.

Machine: Dyeing Machine

Maintenance: Mechanical

Check all bearings, seals, gaskets.

Check the main pump oil level.

Check all mechanical seal flush pipes.

Discharge the water from air filter.

Check all m/c flange & platform bolts.

Grease RCR rotary joints every 2 weekly

Check the adjustment of catch basket mechanism and plaited system.

Clean & check the control panel.

Machine: Squeezer Machine


Grease squeezer bearings.

Grease all the bearings.

Check oil level of pneumatic oilers.

Check oil level of gearboxes.

Check magnetic spreader adjustment.

Machine: Compactor


Check Grease if necessary

Pressure springs of chain tensioner.

Nuts of width adjustment spindles for wear.

Check all spindle bearings for free running.

Free running of guide rollers, deflection rollers & contact rollers.


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Perform visual inspection: -

Gear box oil level

Belts, pulleys

Machine: Stenter


Crease all bearing with stuburg NBU-12, energrease 1002

Complete cleaning of the machine

Check all belt and belt tension

Check all door sills

Check gear box of platting and its oil.

Check all pin bars & clean

Check chain and give oil if required .Clean exhaust blower & duct

All chamber blowers check and clean

Chamber nozzle cleaning

Check gas pressure, adjust if required

Machine: Boiler


Check and clean fluff & dart at all machine.

Feed pump servicing.Main boiler servicing.

Cheek all temperature & pressure gauge meter.

Cheek gas strainer.

Clean gauge glass &change if required.

Clean feed tank.

Clean fire tube.

Clean all safety valves.

Check all steam valves.

Check all gas regulators.

13.6. Remarks:

Maintenance of machine is incredibly essential to prolong the m/c life and smart

maintenance is very important thought. During this business maintenance program is completed

by professional maintenance team. So, only a few times production is stopped attributable to m/c

downside.


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CHAPTER-14

UTILITIES & ETP PLANT


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14.1. Available Utility Facilities

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is a large project. So, it requires adequate utility services. In

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. the following utility services are available.

1. Electricity

2. Gas

3. Water

4. Steam

5. Compressed air

Electricity:

It is not possible to continue the assembly while not electricity. A frequent provide of electricity

is extremely a lot of essential to make sure sleek production. In Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. the

complete demanded electricity is generated by Own Generator.

Starting Procedure (Generator):

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section of Sadma Fashion Wear

Ltd.

Generator Room should be Clean

Cooling Tower water reserve tank shold

filled

Oil Circulation pump run for 10 min

Start the Engine 5 Min without any load

Close the main circuit breaker and

connect the load.


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Gas:

The gas is supplied to Gas Generator, Boiler.

The source of gas is TITAS Gas Ltd.

Water:

Continuous supply of water for Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is ensured by Water pump. The deep

well water is subjected to Water Treatment Plant (WTP) to make sure the water quality

parameter suitable for Textile Wet Processing.

Environmental Standards:

All the solid waste and effluent generated by the factory are treated and disposed off in an

environmentally safe manner. Our textile complex has its own water treatment facility or

Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) of Bangladesh

certifies the compliance.

Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. commitment:

Improve work environment and work safety.

To continuously improve our waste management facilities.

Meet relative environmental safely standards.

Continual waste reduction, recycle and reuse.

14.2. Effluent Treatment Plant

ETP means Effluent Treatment Plant. It can be defined as a plant where the effluent is

treated. Now a day ETP is mandatory for industries which produced huge amount of waste water

(such as wet processing industries in Textiles).By basic studies on ETP, we learn how to control

textile waste water pollution, how waste water is treated in order to save our environment.

14.3. Classification of ETP

ETP can be classified as follows

a. Physicochemical

b. Biological – i) Conventional

ii) Membrane Bio-Reactor (MBR)

c. Physicochemical followed by biological (Bio-chemical)


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The ETP of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is used Physicochemical followed by biological (Bio-

chemical). The ETP of Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is described below:

Amount of using chemicals:

1) Polyelectrolyte 2kg/1000L

2) Lime (50-100) kg/1000L

3) FeSO4 50 kg/10000

4) DAP +Urea (8+2) kg/1000

14.4. Using Chemicals in Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd.

1) H2SO4/HCl :

Function:

Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in the neutralization tank.

2) Polyelectrolyte:

Function:

Make chemical particles bigger in size

3) Sodium Hypochlorite (NaHCl)

Function:

It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation tank.

4) De-colorant:

Function: It is used for removing color of waste water.

5) FeSO4:


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Function:

Used for coagulation and sludge separation from waste water.

6) Lime

Function:

To change the color of waste water.

7) Urea:

Function:

Using food of bacteria.

8) Di-ammonium phosphate:

Function:

Using food of bacteria.

14.5. Product Quality Checked

a. Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)

b. Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)

c. Total suspended solids

d. Total dissolved solids

e. Color

f. PH etc.

After treatment the waste water the permissible limit of various parameters of waste water is

understood as discharge limit .It is a suitable worth that is normal for all mills and factories.

Parameters Discharge limits

BOD(20 C0.mg/L) 150 mg/L

COD(mg/L) 100 mg/L

TSS(mg/L) 2100 mg/L


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Discharge customary for textiles liquid waste water in step with the National Effluent Quality

Standards (NEQS) guided by DOE (Department of Environment)

TDS(mg/L) 10 mg/L

Oil & Grease(mg/l) 6.5-9

Waste water flow 100 L/Kg of fabric processing

Parameters Discharge limits

BOD(20 C0.mg/L) 150 mg/L

COD(mg/L) 100 mg/L

TSS(mg/L) 2100 mg/L

TDS(mg/L) 10 mg/L

Oil & Grease(mg/l ) 605-9

Waste water flow 100 L/Kg of fabric processing


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14.6. Overall view of ETP Plant

Figure: Overall view Of Sadma’s ETP


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Figure: Overall view Of Sadma’s ETP


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14.8. Remark

Waste water from processing industries e g. Dyeing , Printing , Finishing and washing

causes great harmful effect on our environmental, As a result agricultural land loses its fertility,

natural water becomes polluted aquatic life is destructive and crops are damage.


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CHAPTER-15

MARKETING


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15.1. Marketing Activities

Marketing is one of the important part of every industry. Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. used

to visit in to new market area searching the buyers of unique interests and value knit items.

Always attempts to satisfy the buyer‟s requirements conforming superior quality honoring their

creativity.

15.2. Buyer’s Compliance

All the buyer of Sadma Fashion Wear ltd. strictly follows the Labor and Labor welfare

rules of Bangladesh Government. If the factory does not maintain the rules and requirement of

Bangladesh Government Labor welfare then they do not accept the product.

15.3. Global Partners

Brands Origin Flag Logo

JHK

Spain

Orchestra

France

Okaidi France

Kaporal France

New Yorker Germany

Lidl

Germany

Dupareil

Spain

Payper

Italy


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Plaza Italia

Italy

Preca Brummel

Italy

LPP

Poland

Conclusion

Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap

between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this industrial training taught us lot

about textile technology, production processes, textile machineries, industrial management and

made us comfortable to industrial life. Besides it gave us the first opportunity to work in

industry. Industrial Training program send us to the expected destiny of practical life. The

completion of six week industrial Training at Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. we have got the

impression that the factory is one of modern knit dyeing projects in Bangladesh. Though it was

established only few years ago, it has earned very good reputation for its best performance over

any other knit dyeing project. It was really a productive practical learning and methodological

knowledge successfully in the textile industry and the economy of our country.

During my industrial training I had tried to my best to done my duty. My supervision officer

conjointly glad to Maine & supply co-operation in each steps. it's utterly a brand new expertise in

my life, which can be terribly effective in my service life. Throughout my coaching period I

spotted that sensible expertise is effective for service life.

Limitations of the Report:

It is unimaginable to carry the complete issue of a textile trade in such atiny low frame as this

report. So, strive our arduous to summarize all the data that we tend to area unit provided.


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Because of secrecy act, the information of cost accounting and selling activities

haven't been equipped.

We didn't get enough oversight kind the accountable persons of various section as a result

of their busy schedule. thus there might some limitation of information of various section

during this report.

We had a really restricted time. In spite of temperament to review in additional details it

had been unimaginable to try and do thus.

Some of the points in several chapters don't seem to be embrace as these weren't offered.

References:

To write this report I take some help from different source. To developed this attachment I

collect data from internet, different journal, and book. Which photo I attach here that‟s I collect

from different web site.

Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)

Education

Transcript of Industrial attachment of sadma fashion wear ltd. (2)