Industrial attachment of novel hurricane knit garments ltd

INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTNovel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd

Industrial Attachment Repor - 1 -

Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Southeast University. Like all

other years our teacher Syed Fakrul Hassan, Chairmen of Department of Textile-Engineering,

Gave us an opportunity to choose preferable mills for Industrial Attachment Course. We, the

Four student of 5th batch choose the Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. joyfully with the

supervising teacher Dr.Md. Abul Kalam Azad.

During the attachment with The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd we worked in all the

departments related with the Garments Manufacturing Technology & Knitting. We not only

gave priority to garments manufacturing but also worked sincerely in the knitting, dyeing,

and Maintenance and Marketing section. We learned about quality control section, finished

fabric Inspection section, warehouse, store &Inventory &Finishing.

We owe a particular debt of gratitude to Md.Emrul Khan, Manager(HRD),Md.Mofazzal

Hosan,GM (Production & Head Of The Factory) MD.Masud Rana,Manager,(Marketing

&merchandising Dpt.),Md.Shariful Hasan Talujder,DGM(Production & Head Of The

Factory),Md Maruf Mia(PM) Md.Abdus Salam, AGM,(Knitting &Fabrication) in Novel

Hurricane Knit garments Ltd.

They gave always some of his valuable time regularly in helping us to achieve our intended

goal. We also express our gratitude to all the executives of Bangle knitting, dyeing, cutting,

sewing, finishing, store & inventory control.

Of course we wish to pay our special thanks to the persons guided us cared us during this

days- MD.Masud Rana, Manager,(Marketing &merchandising Dep’t. of Novel Hurricane

Knit garments Ltd.

However, we have prepared our Industrial Project overcoming all the difficulties & also the

shortage of time. Here we would like to present the report.

Md.Yeasin Mia

Md.Afjal Mia


Chapter-IProject Description


Company Profile

Name of the Company: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED

Company Type: 100% export oriented knit composite mill.

We have two high capacity garments manufacturing plants where we can produce 18.70

million pieces of knit apparels per annum with the help of sophisticated machinery and well

trained manufacturing team. Serving the needs to the global apparel market since 1999 as a

leading manufacturer of quality and value added knit garments.

Year of

Establishment1999

Business linesManufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit

apparels.

Employee NumberManagement -117

Production -580

ProductsT-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies

Tops, etc.

Production Capacity 7.50 million pieces per annum

Export Market Europe , USA, Japan, German


Location and Address:

Corporate Office-

122/A, Tejgaon Industrial Area

Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh

Phone: 8815356, 8819373, 8855381

Fax: 880-2-8819372

Web site: www.nhk-ast.com

Operational Office-

Bokran, Monipur, Mirzapur

Gazipur-1703, Bangladesh

Phone: 0682555074, 0682555104

Fax: 88-0682555103

E-mail:[email protected]

Company Space: 500acre

Products: All Types of Knit Fabric and Garments

Production Capacity Per Month:

Basic T-shirt 600,000 pcs

Polo shirt 300,000 pcs

Special Knit Item 400,000 kg

Fleece Item 200,000 kg

Rib/Interlock Item 400,000 kg


Total worker (with knitting): 1100

General Manager: 68

Maintenance: 17

Different Departments-

1. Merchandising

2. HRD

3. Administration

4. Production

-Sample section

-Cutting section -Sewing section

-Finishing section

-Work Study

-Quality section

5. Complains

6. Accounce

7. Store & inventory Control

8. Knitting section

History of the development:

a. Garments are the biggest export oriented industry and earns65% foreign currency.

b. Engaged about 30 lac people directly with this industryactivities directly on the other hand one core people of the totalcountry are engaged with his activities .Being it is the mainsource of earning foreign currency and labor oriented industryfor which this project development and increasing day by day.


Physical infrastructure:

FIG: NOVEL HURRICANE KNIT GARMENTS LIMITED

It is situated Gazipur basis area on about three acores of land of fivestored-modern building including that different and various socialhumidity and department like

1. Welfare area .2. Safety area .3. Sufficient like fans and natural air flow the

working. Atmospheric is nice hygienic andhealthing.

Remarks:

It is one of the modern and model garments factory including ISO certified andWRAP certified factory


Chapter-IIMan power Management


Organo gram:

Chairperson:

Responsible for all management decision and actions take place in the company. Approving company budgets. Taking final decision on company profits/ loss and profit sharing between the

shareholders. Directly responsible to produce company budgets. Responsible to work on fund management and cost control in all the process of the

operation.

Managing Director:

Reporting to Chairperson. Responsible to board of director’s Having total charge of the operation. Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfil marketing

requirement. Monitor factory operation and make sure orders and delivery on time with

customer’s required quality at minimum cost. Take the total change of all human resource activities and make sure GNF Ltd to

have professional and cheerful work force.

Director Operations:

Reporting to Managing Director.


Direct co-ordination with production Manager/ Sample Room In-Charge/ Qualitymanager/ Lab In-Charge.

Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of thecompany.

Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises. Take charge of all pre production activities. Take change of all new development. Identify tanning needs. Maintain safety system and procedures. Introduce cost effective management methods.

Merchandising Manager:

Report directly to Managing Director. Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In-

Charge. Upgrade Managing Director on the progress. Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan

is up to date. Monitoring maintained and processed order information, this is transferred

between head office and the factory. Execute raw material booking and follow-ups. Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the

coordinator. Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, customer requirements

and get buyers approvals where even possible.

Marketing Manager:

Report directly to Managing Director. Co-ordinator with Merchandising Manager. Responsible for business development/ develop new supplier sources and cost

control. Frequent market research and up date. Generate innovation to the organization. Follow up current customer and ongoing orders. Co-operate with customers and make. Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, convince customers

and get customers approvals approvals where ever is possible on companyinterest.

Find business for surplus good. Prepare and maintain management reports.

Administration Manager:

Directly reporting to General Manager


Co-ordinate with the entire department in changes and all the workers in theFactory.

Responsible to monitor: Factory timing. Discipline and cleanliness. Attendance, leave and holidays. Security and maintenance of the factory. Transportation and its maintenance. Wagers, overtime pay, allowances and other payment. Do necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations. Keep head office updated on regular intervals.

Management System:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has maintained in the International StandardManagement System. It is follow up ISO9001:2008 management system & WRAP standard.

Shift System:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has flows one shift and shift hour 8:00 AM to 5:00PM(Within one hour taking rest ). For emergency shiftment it is work overtime 5:00 PM to10:00PM.

Responsibility of production Officer:

The production Officer is very sincere, proactive and very carefully every work. They doingwork factory full time. The production officer solves the problem and how to knowproduction planning and improvement of the production. The production manager maintainproduction department and increase productivity.

Remarks:

The management of Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. is very strong and they maintainevery work carefully. The management supervising all of the factory and production Officerdoing works carefully.


Chapter-IIIMachine Description


No. of Machine:

The Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has used different type machine. This machine ishigh technology & ultra modern machine. Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. has sixhundred above machinery. The machine is use different section. The section wise machine isfollowing-

Cutting Section:

Fabric inspection m/c Straight knife m/c Brand knife m/c Fusing m/c Hand Operated Scissors

Sewing Section:

Plain Machine(S/N) Double Needle Machine(D/N) Over lock Machine(O/L) Flat lock Machine (F/L) Kanshai Machine Blend Stitching m/c

Bar-tack Section:

Button Hole Machine Button join Machine Bar-tack Machine(B/T) Snap button attaching m/c

Finishing Section:

Suction Machine. Repeat attaching m/c Iron Metal detector m/c Spot cleaning m/c


Make, Brand name ,Origin Model:

They given below m/c name, origin ,make, brand name and model following table:

Machine Name Brand Origin Model Quantity

1 CLOTHCUTTER

K.M JAPAN KS-AUV-258857 5

2 BAND KNIFE K.M JAPAN S.BK-700 1

3 FABRICINSPECTION

M/C

UZU THAILAND UZ-900-31/72” 1

4 SINGLENEEDLE

BROTHER JAPAN SL-7340-5 306

5 DOUBLENEEDLE

BROTHER JAPAN T-8420A-005 22

6 5 THREDOVERLOCK

BROTHER JAPAN FB-N310-5030-55-3WF

32

7 HAMMING JUKI U.S.A US-63900AM1/2 4

8 ZIGZAK YAMATA CHINA FY-20043 3

9 FEED OF THEARM

BROTHER JAPAN DA-9280-D 9

10 BUTTONSTITCH

BROTHER JAPAN BE-438D 3

11 BUTTON HOLE BROTHER JAPAN HE-800A-2 3

12 EYELEY HOLE BROTHER JAPAN RH-981A-02 2

13 BARTACK BROTHER JAPAN KE-430D-02 12

14 SNAP ATTCH PRYM GERMANY PP5-600ZP 6

15 IRONINGVACUUM TAB

NAWMOTO JAPAN FB-700-SID 12

16 THREDSUCKER

MODERN BANGLA TS05-12 1


17 SPOTCLEANING

UZU THAILAND UZ-84 1

18 FUSING PESS HASHIMA CHINA HP-900CFS 1

19 NEEDLEDETECTOR

LOCK EANGLAND PART#23065SL#23065

1

20 BELT LOOPCUTTER

NAOMATO CHINA SWA—1090-42P 8

21 THREDTRIMMER

UNISUN TAIWAN US-100V 4

22 VELCOATTACH

JAPAN KE-436C 2

23 THREDWINDER

OSHIMA TAIWAN OW-04/OW-200296-CE

1

24 STRAPPINGMAC

OSHIMA TAIWAN OSHIMA-G-500 1

25 BOILERELETIC

DRAGON LOCAL - 2

26 KANSAISOECIAL

KANSAI JAPAN DFB-1404-WB 4

27 KANSAISOECIALELASTIC

KANSAI JAPAN DFB-1404-WB 4

28 BELT LOOP KANSAI JAPAN B2000C 1

29 COMPRESSOR JUCAI CHINA FT-100300 1

30 GENERATOR380 KVA

WILSONDIESEL

EANGLAND P380F1 1


Main specification:

Single needle sewing /plain machine:

Thread stand Thread clamp Thread retainer Thread up lever guide Thread guide Tension disk Pressure screw Pressure bar Pressure feet Hand lifter Needle clamp Needle Feed dog SPI adjust Reverse lever Figure-Typical view of Plain M/c bobbin winder pulley Needle plate Oil sight winder Pulley Belt cover Leg lifter Safety guide Motor

Sewing Machine types

According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing m/c are available given

below-

1. Manually Operated sewing machine

2. Electrically Operated sewing machine

1. Manually Operated sewing machine: The m/c in which sewing is done by physical

power called Manually Operated sewing machines. These types of sewing m/c are widely

used in tailoring and domestic purpose for sewing fabrics. Because of less production, these

types of sewing m/c are not used in garments industry.


2. Electrically Operated sewing machine: The m/c, in which sewing is done by

electrical power called Electrically Operated sewing machine. Comparatively these types of

m/c contain high production and widely used in garments industries for making garments.

The machines which are used in garments industries are called Industrial sewing m/cs. There

are various types of industrial sewing machines are available named by-

1. Double chain stitch m/c (4-thread short)

2. Double chain stitch m/c (4-needle elastic inserting m/c)

3. Double chain stitch m/c (double needle with reverse feed)

4. Feed of the arm(double chain stitch m/c.3 needle)

5. Interlock m/c (2- needle 5-thread O/L M/c)

6. Lock stitch m/c (single needle with variable to feed with automatic thread trimmer)

7. Lock stitch m/c(single needle with automatic thread trimmer)

8. Lock stitch m/c (single needle sewing m/c)

9. Lock stitch m/c (2-needle with split needle bar sewing)

10. Lock stitch m/c (twin needle feed)

11. Lock stitch ink (1-needle with vertical trimmer wiper & reverse feed)

12. Lap seaming m/c (for back tape attaching)

13. Linking m/c

14. Over lock m/c (twin needle, 4-thread m/c)

15. Over lock m/c (1-needle, 3-thread)

16. Zigzag sewing m/c (1-needle)

17. Top & bottom cover stitch flat bed m/c, 3-needle

18. 3-needle covering m/c, 5-thread flat bed top & bottom covering m/c

19. Button hole m/c (for woven fabric)

20. Button sewing m/c

21. Bartak ink (with automatic thread trimmer)

22. Button hole sewing m/c (for knitted fabric)

23. Button covering stitch belt loop making m/c (kansai m/c)

24. Bias tape cutting m/c

25. Label sewing machine.

Only main specification of different Sewing machine (m/c) are given below-


Lock Stitching M/c:

Group : Lock Stitch S.P.M : 1500-5500 Needle name : DB*1 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. T.P.I : 2.5 inches Function : Woven fabric stitching Figure :- Lock Stitching m/c

Bar Tack M/c:

Group : Lock stitch S.P.M : 3000-3200 Needle name : DP *5 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per bar tack : 8 inches Figure: Bar Tack m/c Function : Bar tacking.

Kansai M/c:

Group : Chain stitch S.P.M : 3000-3600 Needle name : UO * 113 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Per bar tack : 16 inches Function : Jacket, cuff, fu-long pant, waist belt joining

Feed of the Arm m/c:

Group : Chain stitch

S.P.M : 6000

Needle name : UY * 113

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per bar tack : 8 inches Figure: Feed of the Arm m/c

Function : Inseam stitching of woven & jeans fabric.


Single Needle Chain stitching m/c [1 needle 1 lopper 2 thread]:


S.P.M :1800 - 6500

Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

T.P.I : 4 inches. Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c

Function : False stitching.

Double Needle Chain stitching m/c [2 needle 2 lopper 4 threads]:


S.P.M : 1800 - 6500

Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21. Figure: Single Needle Chain stitching m/c

T.P.I : 4 inches.

Function : Side seam stitching.

Button Hole M/C:

Group – Lock stitch / Chain stitch

S.P.M : 3600

Needle name : DP * 5

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole : 8 inches.

Function : Button hole making Figure: Button Hole M/C


Button Attaching m/c:

Group : Lock stitch / Chain stitch

S.P.M :1500

Needle name : TQ * 1

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Function : Button attaching

Figure: Button attaching m/c

Blend Stitching m/c:


S.P.M : 2500

Needle name : LW * 6T

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole : 8 inches

Function : Blend stitching making

Zigzag Stitching M/C:

Group : Lock stitch

S.P.M : 1500 - 5500

Needle name : Db * Needle size – 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.

Per hole : 5 inches.

Function : Decorative seam making.

Over lock m/c:

No of needle: One or multiple needle is used No of threads: 2-5threads are used Maximum stitch length is 4mm, but it can easily be adjusted by using push button

system. SPM: 6500-8500 Edge trimmer knife is available in front of the needle.


The m/c is used for both woven & knitted fabrics

Group Chain stitch

Brand Name Juki

Needle Type DC*1,DC*11,DC*14

Origin Japan

Model :MO-3914,TO-42 Figure: Over lock m/c

Cloth Cutting Machine:

Machine Nam : K.M. Company Cloth Cutting Machine

Model : KM KS-AUV

Producer : Made by K.M. Cutting, Japan

Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening

Dimension : 8’’W *11’’L *24’’H (Weight=33.5 lb)

Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)

Speed : 3000/3600

Remarks: It is the most important factor for garments factory. To know m/c name .origin ,model and what type of m/c work done properly and to know every parts of machine.


Chapter-IVRaw Materials


Types of raw materials:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd is used different types of raw materials. Such as fabric ,sewing thread, trimmings, accessories, spare parts etc.

Source of Raw Materials:

The raw materials are come from the Comilla EXPORT PROCESSING ZONE (CEPZ).Main suppliers for our fabrics, zipper & others are given bellow-

Fabric supplier:

Main Land – CHINA K.G. Denim - INDIA Kashem Textile - PAKISTAN H.S. Textile –BANGLADESH Polash Textile - BANGLADESH Hossain Fabric Ltd - BANGLADESH

Zipper supplier: L.S.I & Y.K.K.

Thread:

SANZI TEXTANLIMA YARNTOTAL THREADACTIVE THREAD

Label:

COLOR KINGGOLDEN LINEETACOL

Button: L.S.I. & Rupali Lace

Poly: IMPERIAL

Carton: BECO & COMILLA PACKAGING

Hang Tag/ Paper tag: COLOR KING

Price:

The price is fixed by the management.

Annual requirement:

The requirement of raw materials depends on the production capacity. Increase productivitymore raw materials are required. Annual requirement 20,000,00 yards of fabric.


Remarks:

It is the most important part of the garments factory. To know type of raw materials , fabricspeciation and function.


Chapter-VProduction Planning Sequence and Operation


Production planning

It is a suitable and clear study and pre-arranging the techniques involves to a long series of

operation for achieving best possible out comes at desired or scheduled time by using man,

Material and m/c present in industry.

Tools of production planning:

1. Motivation of worker

2. Education of training

3. Work study

4. Line balancing

5. Scheduling

6. Planning

7. Incentive

8. Inventory management

9. Quality management

10. Maintenance management

Production parameter:

There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and

its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned

by the customers.


Following is a part of list that covers some names of the trims:

Zipper/Fastener

• Sewing Thread

• Main Label

• Flag Label

• Button

• Elastic

• Eyelet hole

• Tag s

• Tag pin

• Plastic clip

• Sticker

• Hanger

• Poly bag

• Scotch tape

• Gum tape

• Photo Board

• Back Board

• Tissue

• Carton. Etc.


Planning officer must know the following things: Order number Style name Order quantity Shipment date Lead time Style breakdown Allocation the specific line of the style & the capacity of the style or not Production per day according to the shipment order Print status For specific style how much printing unit can produce per day

For achieve the plan target planning officer must ensure the following things:

Input(Cutting parts) Accessories Machineries Manpower Floor space to set up the machine Required working hour.

Planning Department Procedure:

Have to good knowledge about planning. Skilled workers are need. To know about planning process. Store of raw material availability. To know market demand. Order in hand availability. Export availability of goods. To set up man power . To set up machinery.

Problem of planning:

Have to change the planning:

New order allocation Printing supply delay Shipment adjustment Fabric supply delay Trims & Accessories delay Dyeing delay Extra shipment


Order cancelled

Reasons for production overtime:

The planning section decided that whether the overtime is needed or not for specific orderaccording to shipment date. Sometimes there have some reasons for overtime. The reasonsare follows below:

Fabric shedding from dyeing Print & Embroidery Delay supply Emergency shipment Quantity Trim & adjustment Fabric delay supply Trims & accessories insufficient/delay Order quantity rebalance &pending work Machine storage & problems Interruption power supply by maintenance


Sample Section


Sample garments :The garments which is need for bulk production is called sample garmentor sample garments is a small production the bulk amount of sample.

Sequence of Sample Garments Making :

Design/Sketch

Basic block/Block Pattern

Working Pattern

Sample making

Fault detection

Cost determination

Solve the problem (as required)

Approved sample

Production sample

Design/Sketch: For the production of knit of woven garments a sketch of a particulargarment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that aftermanufacturing of that garments could be verified or checked whether it looks like the sketchof not. Design/Sketch of the garments could be done manually or with the help computer.

Basic block :The pattern which are made according to actual size , shape of standard bodymeasurement without any design , style , allowances etc .

Working Pattern :When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension then it isknown as working pattern use for sample making.

Sample Making: The pattern is used to cut the fabric. Then the garment component in fabric

form is used to Sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment making is to be done by a very

efficient and technically sound person.

Approved sample :The sample ( according to buyer specification sheet )which is approvedby buyers is known as approved sample


Cutting Section


Introduction:

Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garments industry. For a littlemistake full order may be cancelled. With the false management a big portion of garmentsmay employed. With very care this section is handled.

In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. there consists 05 cutting table. From the section ofmarker comes out for denim fabric there is marker use because if use the marker for denimfabric, frequently match of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to match thefabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards and thickness of lay is 4 inch.

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the straight knifecutting machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp andchanged this on the basis of fabric quantity and composition, normally in every after 4 days.Here, in the below give a short description on this time.

Advantages:

As it comparatively cheaper, easy movement and maximum lay height couldbe cut, used extensively in garments industry.

Could cut fabric at move curved line then round knife. Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay. Quick fabric cutting. Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay. Grinding could be done during cutting. Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:

Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor. Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection. Possibility of accident is higher.

Requirement for Fabric Cutting:

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

1. Precision of fabric cutting:


Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern piecesin the marker. Accurate cutting depends on method of cutting and marker planning.If manual cutting method is sued, then cutting and die cutting have their self cuttingaccuracy.

2. Consistent Cutting:

Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensure thatthe shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape,otherwise the garments produced will be defective.

3. Infused edge:

During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade producestemperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 300°C. If the fabric containssynthetic fabric e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or other blends, then fused edge mayresult in the fibres melt at round 250°C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric willincrease the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hardbid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid theproblem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken:

Reduce the height of the lay; Reduce the cutting speed; Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval; Lubricate the knife during cutting;

4. Supporting of the lay:

Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surfaceshould be capable to support the lay as well to ensure that all the piles are cut at atime during fabric cutting.

In Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. the sequence of the operation in cutting Section is asfollows:


Flow Sequence of Cutting

Sample pattern

Order sheet

Store receiving fabric

Inspection of fabric

Fabric width measure

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Cutting

Parts checking

Numbering

Panel check


Bundling , shortening

Transfer for sewing

Fabric inspection:

1. GSM Check2. Dia Check3. Fault Check4. Point calculation5. Four point system calculation6. Prepared fabric inspection report7. Prepared weight sheet8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)

Description of production process:

Fabric received from store

Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size issame, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabricaccording to marker size.

Marker Making :

Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particularstyle of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least Marker width is equal tothe minimum fabric width and its length depends on the no. of pattern sizes that will be thedrawn .

Method of marker making :

1)Manual Method

2)Computerized Method

This factory used in manual method

Advantages

-Suitable for small production


-Investment is low

Disadvantages

-More time required

-High labour cost

Fabric Spreading

Fabric spreading is a process by which plice of fabric is spreaded in order to get requiredlength and width as per marker dimension .This a preparatory operation for cutting andconsists laying

Method of fabric spreading

1)Manual method

2)Mechanical method

This factory used manual method

-Spreading complete by hand

-Spreading by hook

Straight fabric lays used in this factory

-This lay is mostly used

-Few fabric wastage

Fabric cutting:

Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.

Numbering:

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The stickernumber maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Prepared the bundling card

Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

Program No Cutting No Size No Pies Roll No


Bundling:

In this stage all number are checked according to serial number.

Quality inspection and part-back part is fold together:

Here all parts are checked according to following fault.

Oil Sport Dirty Sport Crease mark Needle mark Foreign yarn Slub Contamination Hole

Then same number of sticker are marked fold and bundled

After Cutting Store:

All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section.

Limitations of Cutting Section:

Input problem. Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and

then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table. There is maybe no group for any table. Quality inspection and front part and back part are fold together. The faulty body

parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch. Cutting quality man may not be trained. Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage

may be increased. Fabric Spreading. There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting price of the lay. There is no individual marker man for any unit. Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker. Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric. Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric. In this stage four men bundle the parts according to serial number.


Sewing Section:

Sewing Section is the crowds section in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. All daylong there machine are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting partsof different garments brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set outaccording to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the differentgarments item sewing along with the machine lay out plan.

I

in sewing machine normally the following machine is used:


Plain Machine(S/N) Double Needle Machine(D/N) Over lock Machine(O/L) Flat lock Machine(F/L) Kanshai Machine Button Hole Machine Button join Machine Rib Cutter Machine Bar tack Machine(B/T)

Sewing:

Sewing Production Flow Chart:

Input taken and sample arrange

Cutting

Store

Cutting

Sewing

Store

In line work

Lay out submit

PP meeting

Label check

Sewing Start

During Sewing

Out put


Finishing

Ship the Goods

Sewing Procedure:

Input taken and Sample arrange-

Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment date, size,break-down according to manpower of that line and confirm the checklist sheet ofstore is ok.

As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department. AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned style.

Cutting

Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving therequisition in store for accessories (label; button, twill-tape etc.)

Store

From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the house. As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories. One requisition is given for thread

Cutting:

Input man will collect the size wise input by counting which is confirmed by cuttingsection.

Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check andcounting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man.

Sewing:

Input man put the input in rack by size-wise.

Store:


Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted quantity andinput man take accessories by counting.

In line work:

After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessaryactions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick production line.

Layout submits:

Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and maintenancedepartment.

PP meeting:

Before starting the sewing in the line of the style it has to be conduct pp meeting toavoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement.

Label check:

AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the sewing.

Sewing start:

It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which quality is large.

During sewing:

Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing. They always try to solve the up-coming problem.Maintain the hourly production with right quality.

Output:

After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table. Reporter will collect the garments from output table. After collecting the garments, reporting will count and delivery the goods finishing

section by size wise.

Finishing:

Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity. If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity

they have to inform the respective production officer.

Ship the Goods:


As per order quantity finishing will complete carton and make as final inspection. After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment.

Sewing sequence of polo shirt

SL NO.OPRATION MACHINE SMV MAN POWER

1 Placket rolling 1 p/m 6.1 OP=1,HL=1

2 Moo

n

joint

1 p/m 14 OP=1

3 Moon top stitch 1 F/L 12.4

0

OP=1,HL=1

4

4

Kasa maring (neck close) 1 P/M 11.44 OP=15 Placket matching with front

part

Table ,HL=26 Placket attach with front part P/M (Auto) 20.40 OP=17 Placket top stitch 1 P/M 20.00 OP=1,HL=18 Placket tuck 1 P/M 17.1

0

OP=1,HL=1

9 Matching (F&B part) Table 13.0

0

OP= 1,HL=1

10 Solder joint with solder tap 1 0/L 10.0

0

OP=1,HL=1

11 Solder top stitch 1 F/L 12.00 OP=1,HL=112 Collar cut without thread O/L( N o NEED) 6.00 OP=1,HL=113 Collar tuck with Placket 1 P/M 15.33 OP=1,HL=114 Collar joint with body 1 O/L 10.0

0

OP=1,HL=1

15 Neck piping 1 F/L 10,2

0

OP=1,HL=1

16 Main label joint 1 P/M 12.5

0

OP=1,HL=1

17 Sleeve hem joint with Sleeve 1 OIL 13.00 OP=1,HL=1

18

18

Collar back top stitch 2 F/L 17.50 OP= 2,HL=2

19 Cutting& Matching (Sleeve&

body)

Table 7.00

(42:2

0)

HL= 2

20 Sleeve joint 2 O/L 22.50 OP= 2,HL=2

21 Placket Kasa mara 1 P/M 19.30 OP=1

22 Placket 1/16 top stitch P/M (Auto) 11.00 OP=1


23 Placket tuck 1 P/M 13.40 OP=1,HL=1

24 Care label joint 1 P/M 14.10 OP=1

Here ,

Symbol Name Quantity

P/M Plain machine 18

O/L Over lock m/c 8

25 Placket box top stitch 2 P/M 20.00 OP= 2,1.1

26 Inspection all back process Table 11.40 OP=1

I 27 Bottom hem 1 F/L 13.20 OP=1,HL=1

28 Side seam 2 0/L 31.00 OP= 2 HL=2

29 Side band twill tap

'f

I

1 P/M 10.40 OP=1,HL=1

30 Side band tuck 1 P/M (Auto) 17.30 OP=1

31 Side band top stitch 2 P/M 29.30 OP= 2,HL=232 Sleeve inside tuck 1 P/M 12.00 OP=1 HL=1

,33 Sleeve outside top stitch 1 P/M 9.30 OP= I,HL=1

34 Side band tuck 1 P/M 17.50 OP=1,HL=1

35 Button hole 1 B/H 12.30 OP=1

36 Button Positionin

g

able 10.00 OP=1

37 Button attaching 1 B/A 14.10 OP=1


P/M (Auto) Auto Plain m/c 3

F/L Flat lock m/c 6

B/H Button hole m/c 1

B/A Button attaching m/c 1

OP Operator 40

HL Helper 33

Total Machine = 37 Total Manpower = 73

Result: Total time required to making garments is 9:28 if single machine is used. But

double machine is used in (operation, 18, 21, 25, 28, 31) so that time Reduce 60 secede.

Actual Total time required to making a garments=8:28 minutes (basic time)

Sewing sequence of T- shirt

Parts name M/c name No of m/c

Side seam joining 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c

Label tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c

Label join with body Plain m/c 1 m/c

Side top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c

Shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c _ 1 m/c

Shoulder top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c

Rib v sewing Plain m/c 1 m/c

Rib show tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c

Rib servicing 2 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c

Rib servicing by cutting Over lock m/c 1 m/c

V tuck with body Plain m/c 2 m/c

Neck join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c

Rib binding 2 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c

Back top seam Plain m/c 1 m/c

Sleeve inside tuck 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c


Sleeve hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c

Sleeve join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c

Body hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c

Quality check Men 2 person

T shirt layout (Long sleeve):

Parts name M/c Name No of m/cFirst shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/cNeck binding/piping 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/cBinding tuck Plain m/c 1 m/cSecond shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/cShoulder top stitch 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/cFalse tuck on the neck Plain m/c 1 m/cSleeve join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/cArm hole top seam 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/cSide seam join Feed of the arm (6 thread) 6 m/cSleeve hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/cBody hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/cCare label Plain m/c 1 m/cQuality check Men 2 person

Sewing sequence of Tank Top

Parts name M/c Name No of m/c

First shoulder joint 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/cNeck piping 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/cNeck tuck Plain m/c 2 m/cSecond shoulder joint 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/cChup tuck(Neck) Plain m/c 1 m/c


Armhole piping 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c

Armhole Tuck Plain m/c 2 m/c2m/c

Side joint 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c2m/c

Body Hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c

Seam

Definition:

In sewing a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching.In order words, the line of joining of fabric is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends atthe seam line called seam type

Properties of Seam:

Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects:

Appearance

After sewing, the seam area is observed for any defects, if present which affectsoutlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seampucker, or unsightly view.

Performance:

Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria.

Seam strength: strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabricstrength.

Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than thefabric elasticity.


Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric.Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due tofrictional forces and tension.

Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simplereason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seamfails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected.

Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation orproblem to body and health as well.

Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof,chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should beproduced in such a way that the seam have also such special property.

Garment seam:

Seam is the combination of stitch which makes line to join two ply of fabric. It has bothfunctional and decorative purpose.

There are 8 classes of Seam:

1. Seam Class 1 : Superimposed Seam2. Seam Class 2 : Lapped Seam3. Seam Class 3 : Bound Seam4. Seam Class 4 : Flat Seam5. Seam Class 6 : Edge neatening Seam6. Seam Class 7 : Applied Seam7. Seam Class 8 : Belt loop Seam

Factors that affect seam strength:

Five factors that determine the strength of a seam include:

Fabric type and weight. Thread fiber type, construction, and size. Stitch and seam construction. Stitches per inch. Stitch balance.

Seam type:

Seam types in the apparel industry are used to categorize according to their structure. Each isclassified by the abbreviated seam type(example: Superimposed Seam= SS). There are morethan 100 types of seam and all those seams are grouped under 8 (eight) classes, called seam


classes. Each seam class is useful for different condition methods. The seam class arediscussed below:

Seam class-1(Super imposed seam):

Seam under this class have a general characteristic and all the fabric ends are lying in oneside of the seam. This type of seam is used for general sewing, trouser side seam etc.

Seam class-2(Lapped seam):

This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. A lapped seam is achieved withtwo or more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS commonly, but not always, have oneply of fabric fold under itself for a finishing edge. Lapped seam are common when workingwith leather and sewing side seams on jeans and dress shirts. Fabric ends lie at both sides ofthe seam line. Seams under this class are very strong.

Seam class-3 (Bound seam):

The purpose of a bound seam is to finish an edge of a garments. A common example of thiswould be a neckline of a t-shirt. A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the rawedge of another piece of fabric. There are 18 variations of a bound seam. Seams under thisclass are produced with at least two pieces of fabric. One piece of fabric bound the open endof other piece of fabric.


Seam class-4(Flat seam):

Flat seams are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. Acover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needlesand creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line. This creates a flat seam which iscommonly used on garments the fit closely to the body such as underwire. The purpose is tocreate a seam that will be flat throughout the duration of the garments life. Seam under thisclass are produced by keeping the fabric plies side by side i.e. without overlapping of plies offabric. Hence seams can produced without increasing the thickness of the seam.

Seam class-5(Decorative seam)

Seams under this class are produced only for decoration purpose with single pieces or multi-pieces of fabric.

Seam class-6(Edge neatening)

Seams under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cut areacannot come out during use. Over lock sewing is frequently used for this purpose.


Seam class-7

These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to apply a decorativematerial to an edge of seam, such as the lace ending on a nightdress sleeve.

Seamclass-8

Constructed from one ply of fabric only, this class is commonly used for belt loops and waistbelts.

Garments stitch:

Stitch is the unit of seam which is formed by interlacing, interloping, intra-looping orcombination of three principle.

1. Stitch Class 100 : Single-Thread Chain Stitch2. Stitch Class 200 : Hand Stitch


3. Stitch Class 300 : Lock Stitch4. Stitch Class 400 : Multi-Thread Chain Stitch5. Stitch Class 500 : Over-edge Stitch6. Stitch Class 600 : Flat & Covering Stitch

Stitch Class 100- Single Thread Chain Stitch

- Stitch is made by same thread through intra-looping- One needle and one looper is needed for forming stitch- Less Strength- Temporary stitch, Subclass-101- Invisible/Blind Stitch, Subclass-103

Uses: Basting, or light construction, Blind stitch for Hemming

Stitch Class 200-Hand Stitch

- This stitch also produced from single thread- Less durable stitch- Subclass-202 is hand stitch- Subclass-209 is machine stitch

Uses: Decorative purpose such as Lapel of Coat Decorating, Tacking or Repairs etc.

Stitch Class-103Stitch Class-101

Stitch Class-202 Stitch Class-205


Stitch Class 300-Lock Stitch- It requires two types of sewing thread- Stitch is form through interlacing- Bobbin and bobbin case required instead of looper- Both side are same- It is difficult to pick up the stitch when required- More Compact- Subclass-301 is more compact and non elastic- Subclass-304 consume more yarn and elastic

Uses: Top stitching and attaching elastic lace to the garments

Stitch Class 400-Multi-Thread Chain Stitch- Multithread Chain stitch- At least 2 set of thread is required for forming stitch (One is Looper Thread anotherone is Needle Thread)- Subclass-401 consists of 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread- Subclass-406 consists of 2 needle thread and 1 looper thread- Subclass-407 consists of 3 needle thread and 1 looper thread

Uses: [401-Waist Band of Jeans Pant, Side Seam of Trousers], [406-Hemming of T-Shirt & Polo Shirt], [407-Attaching Elastic bands to Briefs and Undergarments]

Stitch Class 500-Over-edge Stitch- Its function to stop fraying out of loose yarn from edge- It also increase seam security- Subclass-503 consists of 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread- Subclass-504 consists of 1 needle thread and 2 looper thread- Subclass-514 consists of 2 needle thread and 2 looper thread- Subclass-515 is the combination of 503 and 401

Uses: For surging the edge of fabric




Stitch Class 600-Covering chain Stitch

- Formed with at least 3 groups of yarn- Covering stitches for decorative purpose.- Can be used to joint of 2 raw edges.- Suitable for knitted garment.- Cover Stitch for Over-stitching Seams, High Elongation for Foundation Garments,also used for "Butt-Seams" (Joining Raw Edges Together)- Subclass-602 consists of 2 needle thread and 2 looper thread- Subclass-605 consists of 3 needle thread and 2 looper thread- Subclass-606 consists of 4 needle thread and 5 looper thread

Uses: For hemming of sleeve and bottom of T-Shirt, Polo Shirt and other KnitGarments, Attaching collar, Contrast yarn in top covering thread for decorativepurpose


Stitch Class-502


Stitch Class-515

Stitch Class-504


Sewing Needle:

A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needle was made ofbone or wood, modern ones are manufacture from high carbon steel wire, nickel or goldplated for corrosion resistance. The higher quality embroidery needles are made of platinum.Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the lengthand thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needlewill be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has adirect effect on seam strength and garments performance.

Function of a needle:

The function of a sewing needle is:

To produced a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without causing anydamage to material.

To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on

machines other then lock stitch.

Parts of a Sewing Needle:

The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below

Butt: It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which is needed toattach the needle with needle bar or clamp.

Shank: Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates which the needle bar. Itmay be cylindrical or flat at one side.

Shoulder: shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade. Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is

responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric. Long groove: There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needle

thread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up anddown.


Short groove: Short groove is the slot on the side needle towards the hook or looper. Itassists in forming the loop of needle thread.

Eye: Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing threadspasses. It prevents the sewing threads from damage during sewing.

Point: It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and theappearance that has to be produced.

Tip: It is the keen extreme end of the point.

Size of needle:

DB * 1-7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for plain M/C DC * 1-7, 8, 9, 10, 11 for over lock M/C UY * 128-8, 9, 10, 11, for Flat lock M/C UO * 113-9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 for kansai M/C DP * 17-11 for button stitch M/C DP * 5-11 for button hole M/C DP* 5-9, 10, 11 for two needle lock stitch

Sewing thread:

Types of sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh are followings:

1. Polyester Core-Spun Thread2. Spun Polyester Thread3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread4. Textured Polyester Thread5. Polyester Cotton Core-Spun Thread6. Trilobal Polyester Thread

1. Polyester Core-Spun Thread:

This type of thread is produced by spinning staple polyester fibre around a core of hightenacity continuous filament polyester in yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of thesecomposite yarns are then twisted together to give the necessary size and tensile strength.

Key Characteristics:

- Exceptionally strong.


- The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior strength whilethe staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core from damage due to needleheat.- Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of materials.- Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on strength,thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker.- Brand Name: Epic (Coats)Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear , jeans &work clothes.

2. Spun Polyester Thread

Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun polyester yarnsare twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.


- High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high abrasionresistance.- Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.- Brand Name: Astra (Coats).

Uses: Mainly for over-edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread

Normally long staple cotton fibers are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more ply of spuncotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.


- 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared to those insynthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing tension and high stitchdensities.- Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.- During sewing, cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature generated by needle.- 100% cotton thread is mercerized to provide greater luster and higher strength.- Brand Name: Dymax (Coats)


Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.

4. Textured Polyester Thread

This Thread is made from textured continuous polyester filament. Texturing meansmodification by applying crimp to the filament. It is done to make softer yarn.- Provides high softness and comfort.- High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.- Also widely used in over-locking and covering stitches for high extensibility and

seam security- Brand Name: Gramax (Coats).

Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness. Ex: Underwear,Swimwear, Baby wears etc.

5. Polyester Cotton Core-Spun Thread

This thread is made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wrapspolyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make thread.- Very low shrinkage, good strength- Cotton core protects poly core from needle heat and high ironing temperature.- Brand Name: Dual Duty (Coats).

Uses: Fine cotton denim shirts, Outdoor wear etc.

5. Trilobal Polyester thread

- Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual polyester fibre.- Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber thread.- It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk.- Brand Name: Sylko (Coats)

Uses: Embroidery for garment.


Fabrics used in Apparel:

Based on Fiber fabric can be classified as Cotton Fabric, TC (Terylene Cotton) Fabric, andCVC (Cheap Value Cotton) Fabric etc.

The Knit Fabric can be broadly classified as follows:

1. plain fabric

Uses :Plain fabric are used for basic T-shirt , under garments , men’s vest , ladies hosiery ,fully fashioned knitwear .

2. Rib fabric

Uses : Rib fabric are used for socks , cuffs , waistbands , collars , men’s outwear ,knitwear , and underwear etc

3. Purl fabric

Uses :purl fabrics are widely used for baby wear children’s clothing , sweater , thick andheavy outerwear , under garments etc

4. Interlock fabric

Uses : Interlock fabric are used for underwear , shirts , suits , trouser suits , sportswearand dresses etc

5. Fleece fabric

6. Piquee fabric

7. Mash fabric

8. Single jersey & Double jersey fabric

9. Single lacoste & Double lacoste

10. Lycra jersey fabric

The Woven Fabric can be broadly classified as follows:


1. Plain/Poplin Weave2. Oxford/Basket Weave3. Twill Weave4. Dobby Weave5. Jacquard Weave

01. Plain/Poplin WeaveThey are (One up one down) structured basic fabric. They so many types:

Poplin:

- Thin Fabric with Higher EPI/PPI- Fine yarn is used- Standard Construction: [110×76]/[45×45]

Uses: Pocketing

Canvas:

- Very Thick Fabric with less EPI/PPI- Coarser yarn (Ne: 6-10) is used- Standard Construction: [70×42]/[10×10]

Uses: Pant, Blazer

Sheeting:- Light Fabric with Less EPI/PPI- Medium Fine yarn is used- Standard Construction: [68×68]/[35×35]Uses: Shorts

Calico:

- Less Heavier Fabric than Canvas Fabric- Coarser Yarn is used- Standard Construction: [68×68]/[35×35]

Uses: Winter Garments, Dress Pants, Shorts

Taffeta:

- Glossy & Shiny Fabric- Synthetic (Polyester/Nylon) with Less or No Twisted Yarn is used


- Standard Construction: [120×90]/[70D×70D]

Uses: As Lining inside Coat, Blazer etc.

Taslan:

- Heavier Fabric than Taffeta- Weft yarn is 2 times coarser than warp yarn- Standard Construction: [120×70]/[70D×140D]

Uses: As Lining inside Coat, Blazer etc.

Chambray:

- Simple structure with colored warp yarn and white weft yarn- Color may reflect by changing visual angle

Uses: Men’s Shirt, Ladies Shirt etc.

Ottoman:

- The filling (Weft) yarn is more coarser than warp

Uses: Specially for Pants

Flannel:

- One or both side surfaced fibre being raised by Brushing- Very soft in handling

Uses: Ladies wear, Babies wear etc

02. Oxford/Basket Weave

- Two parallel yarn (Without Twist) used in warp way- Single yarn is used in Weft way


- Standard Construction: [110×76]/[(30+30)×20]

Uses: Shirt (Especially for US Buyer, Shorts etc.

03. Twill Weave

Twill fabrics are many types:

1. Basic Twill (3×1, 2×1, 2×2, 3×3 etc)2. Herring Bone Twill (Especially for Pants, US)3. Broken Twill4. Sateen (Made from Cotton) / Satin (Made from Silk or Rayon) Fabric5. Denim Twill

Denim Fabric:In Denim Fabric Colored yarn is used in Warp way and White yarn is used in Weft way.These fabrics are mainly used for Pants, Shirt etc. There are 4 major types of Denim:

1. Basic Denim2. Cross-Hatch Denim: Different yarn count use in warp and weft way3. Ring Denim: Only warp count is different4. Slub Denim: Slub yarn is used

Another Popular Denim is

5. Bull Denim: Heavy weight Denim

04. Dobby Weave

- Combination of Plain weave and Twill weave- Very popular for Shirting, curtain etc.

05. Jacquard Weave

- Any types of design with any size of repeat can be made- Costlier fabric used in decorative purpose

Check & Plaid Fabric:

- The Repeat size of Check Fabric is Smaller than Plaid.- Repeat size of Plaid Fabric is Larger than Check Fabric.

Uses: Especially for Shirt


Seer-Sucker Fabric

- An weave stripe is made by varying tension between warp yarn- Natural rough and shrinkage effect

Uses: Especially for Shirt

Garments defect:

Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories:

1. Fabric defects2. Workmanship and handling defects:3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects

Fabric defects

These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines.The common fabric defects are running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, stainingmark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc.

It can be overcome by Fabric inspection before cutting.

Workmanship and handling defects:

These are defects that are directly caused by production section; this would include both thecutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfectworkmanship.

Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching trims,packing etc. Typical Defects can be categorized as follow:

a) Seam Puckering:- It refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causingan unacceptable seam appearance.- This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing,improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection, dimensional instability of theplies of fabric etc.


b) Shading Variations within different parts:- It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.

c) Open seam or broken seam:

- It occurs when portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.- This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting andtiming between needle and looper or hook etc.

d) Broken Stitch:

- Non-continuous sewing thread during stitching.- It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam:

- It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.

f)Wavy/staggered stitching:

- Stitches are not straight.- It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needledeflection or wrong needle.

g) Uncut/ loose thread:

- Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming orfinishing.

h) Sizing defects

- It means difference in measurement of various parts of garments


- Wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurementdiscrepancy- All these problems come from pattern section.

I) Poor ironing:

- If ironing is not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface- And if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

j) Finishing Problem:

- Misaligned buttons and holes, unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons- Wrong placement of labels or hang tag- Wrong folding or poor folding, improper packing into cartons

Trims, accessories and embellishment defects

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screenprint, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims. CommonTrims, accessories and embellishment defects are:- Unmatched color of thread- Button and zipper tape- Short zippers, faulty zippers- Wrong labels, improper size of the labels- Printing mistake of labels and cartons- Broken poly bag- Wrong hanger- Improper embroideries and prints etc.

ClassificationDefects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into:

1. Critical defects2. Major defects3. Minor defects

1.Critical defects- Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most seriousof defects (0%).

2. Major defects- Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%)depending on buyers requirements


3. Minor defects- Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%)depending on buyers requirements

Finishing Section:


From the sewing section all garments are sending to the finishing section to check thembefore packing. It is known to all finishing parts is done very carefully then the little faultmay be unseen at a glance. It is ensured that all the accessories are the attached with garmentsaccording to the buyer requirement which are already approved iron is done carefully andgives attention the fold mark where it is exactly placed. Here steam iron may be the propersolution and in Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd. Steam iron is used in every sectionwhere it is necessary.

When poly packing is done then it done then it is very carefully handle that there is identifythe assortment requirement. The carton size and the format is also the vital in the finishingsection.

Finishing layout

Thread cutting


Repeat button

Pocket cleaning

Inside pre-final

Top side pre-final

Thread sucker

Ironing

Final check

Measurement check

Get up

Hand tag

Hand tag level check

Folding

Packing

Delivery

Production flow chart:

Table Final Inspection

Primary Inspection

Washing if required

Button /Cording

Fabric and accessories to Store Fabric Checking (Beforesending to cutting)

Inspection before cutting Drawing Marker, Layingcutting and numbering

Trimming Inside /OutsideInspection

Numbering and Bundling Cut fabric sent to the sewing line

Inline Inspection


Chapter-VIQuality assurance system

Quality assurance procedure:

Inspection room and sewing line should be clean and tidy. Fabric Inspection report. Table stores easy identification Inspected and non Inspected fabric. Trim Inspection report 0.65% A,Q.I 10% total trims up to 30% in case of tan our in

10%. Trims stores easy identification Inspected and non Inspected fabric. Color contents card. Each and every batch with collar and rib fabric. Fusing check report. Panel check report. Fabric relaxation report each and every batch import or local. Broken needle register. Process wise inspection system .


Complete line file with list. Complete trims card. P.P sample to hangs in the relevant line. Size set checks records. P.P melting records. In the inspection report one for each 3000 pcs. SPC system and records. In line measurement report as per Tema maneal. First packing inspection within first 50to 1000pcs. Pre final inspection . Final inspection records. Original measurement checks records packing section style wise 100” garments.

BEFORE STARTING PRODUCTION

Fabric inventory. Fabric blanket individual style. 5 yds fabric to office. Accessories inventory. Trim card checking. Single poly measurement confirmed. Pre-production size set. All twill fabric/ cotton types washed before going to inline / elastics. Details pp meeting with factory/discuss possibility of problem critical area.

DURING CUTTING

Fabric checked based on 4 point system. Has factory out goods correctly as per latest order sheet. Fabric numbering method suitable and correct. Has factory cut shade wise( check the cutting record). Blanket shade as same per buyer approved shade.

DURING IN LINE

Compare pp samples comments with first output. Compare all trims against approval. Finish pattern are correct measurement.


Fusing quality / color is appropriate with the fabric. Any bubbling after fusing / after wash. Is correct thread is used in bobbin and top thread. Number of stitch per cm as per buyer given requirement. Correct size needle used in each operation. Is all type of marking in line can be removed after sewing / washing. Measurement checked / before wash / after wash. If non denim garments are they going to washing plant. Blister poly / carton measurement.

List of equipment:

Abrasion and pilling tester. Seam slippage. Perspirometer. Wrinkle recovery tester. Light fastness tester. Air permeability tester. Crease recovery tester. Pressely strength tester. Spectra photo meter. Wrap block. Crock meter. Digital fibro graph. Aqura neps and length. Rape meter. Flame meter. Color matching cabinet. Launder meter.

Quality standard:

The standard quality level maintain is 2.5.

Acceptance quality level 2.5 normal level

DeliverySize

InspectionQuantity

Major faults Minor faultsAccept Reject Accept Reject

51-90 20 1 2 1 291-150 20 1 2 2 3151-280 32 2 3 3 4281-500 50 3 4 4 5501-1200 80 5 6 7 8


1201-3200 125 7 3 10 113201-10000 200 10 11 14 1510001-35000 315 14 15 21 2235000-50000 500 21 22 21 22

Quality report:

SL.no Description of defects Minor Major01 Rivers open at front pocket 0502 Rivers missing at front pocket 0103 Broken stitch at front pocket(Bag side) 0204 Care label size missing at in side 0105 Over lock mark front at top side 0206 Standard at waist band 01

TOTAL 04 09

Remarks :

Quality control department is checked all part of the fabric. It is understood that theinspection were carried out at random.


Chapter-VIIMaintenance

Maintenance:

Maintenance is the action taken to prevent a device or component from failing or to repairnormal equipment degradation experienced with the operation of the device to keep it inproper working order.

Objective/ Advantage Maintenance To keep factory plants, equipment, machine tool in optimum working condition. To ensure accuracy of product and time schedule to delivery customers. To minimize downtime of machine. To prolong the useful life of factory plant and machine.


To modify or improve productivity of existing machine to meet the need forproduction and avoid sinking of additional capital

Routine:

Daily maintenance necessary for garments industry. Lubrication and regular inspection arethe continents of routine maintenance. Lubrication ensures long life and safe working of allthe equipment.

Man power set up for maintains: Man power set up for machinery maintenance.

Maintenance procedure:

1. Repair2. Maintenance3. Setting4. Replacement

Requirements for good maintenance:1. Good supervisor and administration of maintenance department.2. Operators should be well trained3. Proper maintenance record should be maintained4. Adequate stock of spare parts should always be kept.5. Manufacturer of machine tools should be consulted and when required.6. Maintenance department should remain in contact in planning and purchasing

department.

Maintenance tools and functions:

1. Tester2. Clutch motor3. Cutting plus4. Screw driver5. Measuring tape6. Safety glass7. Riveter tools8. Drill machine9. Welding machine


10. Electric Welding machine11. Gas Welding machine12. Super glue13. Hexsa blade14. Meter scale15. Scissor16. Stone17. Hammer18. Fatial19. Hand gear machine20. Start driver21. Flat driver

Remarks:

Machine Maintenance is the important factor of garments factory


Chapter-VIIIUtility Services

Utility facilities available:

Novel Hurricane Knit garments Ltd is located Tongi Basic Industrial Estate where utilityfacilities available.

Capacity: 500mw

Source of Utility:

Electricity supply from PDB, water supply own dip machine and gas supply from Titas.


Remarks: It has good utility service.


Chapter-IXStore & Inventory Control

Inventory control

Inventory in a wider sense is define as any idle resource of an enterprise in order to meetexpects of demand or distribution. It is commonly used to keep hold inventory of variouskind to act as a cushion between and demand.

Types of Inventory

Inventory are of the following 06 categories:


1. Production inventories:

Items which are used to process final product e.g. raw material andother component.

2. In processes inventories:

Semi finish product at various sage of production.

3. Finished goods inventories:

Complete product ready for dispatch.

4. Maintenance repair and operation inventories:

Items those do not from a part of final product are used in productionprocess like spare parts.

5. Miscellaneous inventories:

Scrap, surplus and obsolete item which are not to be disposed off.

6. Fluctuation inventories:

These are maintain to safeguard fluctuation in customer demand for theproduct or availability of material.

Objective/ Advantage of inventories control

Improvement of customer friction:

This is achieved through maintenance of better balance among the quantities of finished itemon one hand and customer service to the other.

Reduction in manufacturing cost:

Manufacturing cost can be reduce by-

I. By better utilization of labor ,supervision and facilities by eliminate idle time due toraw material shortage.

II. By making economical manufacturing runs in place of small lots. Constantrescheduling and set up changes which are needed to component for unbalanceinventories.


III. By minimizing machine down time caused by unavailability of spare parts.IV. By reducing purchase material cost by measuring requirement.V. By keeping safe an impotent asset against theft, preventive waste ,insurable damage

or unauthorized use.

Improve the effectiveness of key personnel:

By taking care and minimize uncertainties like uncertainties in demand from customers anduncertainties in producing the material in time.

Symptoms of poor inventory management:

I. Periodic server backII. Continuously growing inventory quantities while the order backlog remaining

constant or increasing.III. High rate of customer turn over and order cancellation.IV. Uneven production with frequent layoffs and rehiring.V. Frequent used for uneconomical production to meet sales requirement.

VI. Excessive machine down time because of material shortage.VII. Periodic lack of adequate storage space.

Different inventory costs:

I. Cost of orderingII. Inventory carrying costs

III. Costs of shortage.

Cost of ordering:

Cost of ordering is the amount of money expended in getting an item an inventory. To evaluate this cost we have to identify the total annual cost associate with running a

purchase department. If the total number order place during the year divides this cost ,the cost per order, can be obtained.So,Cost per order=Total cost in running purchase/Total no. of order during the year.

The cost of placing order can estimate by considering various cost as below- Salary and wages of personnel of purchase department Telephone , postage power and stationary cost Rent / depreciation of machines and equipment building.

Inventory carrying costs:

This cost is carried in maintaining the stories in a firm and can be broken down in to twocategories:


a. Cost of storage space –light , rent, maintenanceb. Cost of holding stock-pilferage, spoilage, deterioration, protectionc. Other cost:

Stacking , packing, issuing, recording, keeping etc.

Cost that depend on the value of inventory:

I. Cost of capital, interest ,lostII. Cost of insurance

III. Cost of obsolescence

I. Internal: Overtime and special administrative effort

a. The second case is lost sale case.

In this case we loss customers good will and also profit.

Economic order quantity:

The size of an order that minimize the total inventory cost is known as Economicorder quantity.

Lead time:

In case of procuring materials some the length of time ,which is spent to get suppliersand parts in store after they are ordered for is called lead time.

The delivery date of plant orders are calculated by considering this lead time with thedate of which they are required .Any change in this lead time will change release dateof plant orders and this change will cause the total reschedules


Chapter-XCost analysis

Costing

Costing is the process of preparing price quotation for the buyers given their specificspeculation costing is the compare of three components –


Direct cost , Indirect cost , Profit

1. Direct cost:

Direct cost covers the following cost-

A. Fabric costB. Accessories costC. Cost of making2. Indirect cost:

A. Indirect cost covers the following cost-B. Machine depreciationC. TransportingD. Utility costs (eg. water, gas, electricity)E. Workers salariesF. Over-head costs

3. Profit :

Profit is set as 7-15%of the total of direct cost and indirect cost depending on company’spolicy.

Solution:

Final cost = Direct cost+ Indirect cost+ Profit

The process of determining this final cost for specific order is known as Costing.

Costing is the important as it ensure the profit margin for a industry. A very efficient costingcan bring great profit for the industry with out pushing the buyer too much.

Costing of Men’s shirt


A. Fabric consumption for a dozen of shirt π × L ═ size of basic shirt.

Width of body of shirt ═ 1/2 chest

═ 24"+1"(sewing allowance)

═ 25"

Body length ═ 32"+1"(sewing allowance)

═ 33"

Sleeve length ═ 23"+2.5(cost) +1.5"(sewing allowance)

═ 27"


Consumption of a body shirt:

═{1/2 chest× (body length) ×2} / 36× fabric width. (Sq. inch)

═25"×33"×2 (Sq. inch ).

{Let assume fabric width 25"effective width ═25"−1" ═ 24"}

Fabric length ═25×33×2 / 44 inch

Fabric consumption ═25×33×2 / 44×36 yds

Consumption of sleeve ═ (length of sleeve × width sleeve) ×2 sq. inch

═27"×24"×2" (Sq. inch)

Fabric consumption in length width

═ 27×24×2 / 44×36 sq. inch

Total fabric consumption of one dozen shirt

═ [(25×33×2 / 44×36 + / 27×24×2 / 44×36) ×2+ wastage of 8%]

═ 22.75 yds + 8% wastage

═24.6 yds

B. Sewing threads consumption:

It is calculated by measuring the total of different kind of seam. Normally sewingthreads consumption per shirt , 120m.

So, sewing threads consumption per dozen,

═ 120 × 12

═ 1440m

Costing of T- shirt


Fabric Type :Single jersey

G.S.M :180

Yarn count :24/1

Measurement of Garments:

Body length : 54 cm

Chest length : 43 cm

Sleeve length : 15 cm

Fabric Consumption = {(Body length + sleeve length + allowance) *(Chest length + 3)} * 2/10,000 * G.S.M / 1000 * 12 * 10 % (+)

= {( 54 + 15 + 10 ) * ( 43 + 3 )} * 2 / 10,000 * 180 / 1000 * 12 * 10% (+)

=1.72 kg

=1.72* 0.18

= 1.90 kg / doz.

Costing

Fabrics cost : 17.10

Cost of making : 4.5

Print cost : 3.5

Lab cost : 0.20

Accessories cost : 2.5

Washing cost : 1

Total = $ 28.80 / Doz.


= $ 2.40 / pcs.


Chapter-XIMarketing activities

Consumer of the products:

SerialNo.

Buyers Name Logo BrandCountry of

Origin


01 Wal-mart

Faded Glory, George,Puritan, White Stag USA

02Levi Strauss &

Co.Levi’s USA

03 Adidas Adidas USA

04H&M (Harris &

Menuk)H&M Sweden

05 Carrefour Carrefour France

06 C&A C&A Germany

07 Temma Temma Turkey

Responsibility of Marketing Officer:

Report directly to Managing Director. Co-ordinator with Merchandising Manager.


Responsible for business development/ develop new supplier sources and costcontrol.

Frequent market research and up date. Generate innovation to the organization. Follow up current customer and ongoing orders. Co-operate with customers and make. Understand the general/ technical problems in the factory, convince customers

and get customers approvals approval where ever is possible on companyinterest.

Find business for surplus good. Prepare and maintain management reports.

Local market:

B.P garments is 100% export oriented garments factory. There product doesn’t sell goods inlocal market.


Chapter-XIIConclusion

The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occupies a unique position in the Bangladesheconomy. It is the largest exporting industry in Bangladesh, which experienced phenomenalgrowth during the last 25 years. By taking advantage of an insulated market under theprovision of Multi Fiber Agreement (MFA) of GATT, it attained a high profile in terms offoreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialization and contribution to GDP within a shortspan of time. The industry plays a key role in employment generation and in the provision of


income to the poor. To remain competitive in the post-MFA phase, Bangladesh needs toremove all the structural impediments in the transportation facilities, telecommunicationnetwork, and power supply, management of seaport, utility services and in the law and ordersituation. The government and the RMG sector would have to jointly work together tomaintain competitiveness in the global RMG market. Given the remarkable entrepreneurialinitiatives and the dedication of its workforce, Bangladesh can look forward to advancing itsshare of the global RMG market.

Industrial attachment of novel hurricane knit garments ltd

Engineering

Transcript of Industrial attachment of novel hurricane knit garments ltd