HOW TO RECOAT TERRAZZO AND MARBLE FLOORS ......Fringemop or Broom Polishing mop Rotary scrubbing...

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… The chemistry of cleaning

…The Chemistry of Cleaning

Task Sheets

Floor Care

Agar has developed the following Task Sheets as an easy reference for cleaning staff. Offering a comprehensive step by step guide for many cleaning tasks, the Task Sheets will facilitate staff training and provide a framework for auditing the effectiveness of cleaning functions. By following these procedures cleaning staff will not only operate more productively and efficiently, you can also be assured that the cleaning functions will be performed at consistently high standards.

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TASK SHEETS – FLOOR CARE

CONTENTS

Issued: 2 March, 2015

Cleaning Task Task Sheet

Terrazzo and Marble Floors - Recoating

FC-01

Terrazzo, Marble, Agglomerate Marble, Limestone and Sadler Tiles - Sealing

FC-02

Terrazzo, Marble, Agglomerate Marble, Limestone, Sadler Tiles and Exfoliated Granite - Daily Cleaning

FC-03

Terrazzo, Brick, Concrete and Porous Stone Surfaces - How to Remove Oil Stains

FC-04

Terrazzo, Marble, Agglomerate Marble, Limestone and Sadler Tiles - Stripping Floors

FC-05

Removing Rust from Terrazzo FC-06

Vinyl Floors – Sealing FC-07

Vinyl Floors – Recoating FC-08

Vinyl Floors - Daily Cleaning FC-09

High Traffic Timber Floors – Sealing FC-10

High Traffic Timber Floors – Maintaining FC-11

Maintaining Floors Sealed with 3D-GLOSS FC-12

How to Clean Ceramic Tile Floors with an autoscrubber FC-13

How to seal Hard Floors FC-14

How to Maintain Ceramic Tile Floors sealed with MASTERPIECE FC-15

How to Maintain LINOLEUM & MARMOLEUM Floors FC-16

How to strip LINOLEUM & MARMOLEUM Floors FC-17








TASK SHEET – FC01

How to Recoat

TERRAZZO AND MARBLE FLOORS

Issued: 2 March, 2015 Products to use: NOVADET GRANOSEAL MASTERPIECE, 3D-GLOSS or TRAVERSO (i.e. continue to use the same topcoat that was originally applied). Equipment: Scraper Buffing machine with pads Fringemop or Broom Polishing mop Rotary scrubbing machine Wringer bucket Blue pads to suit scrubber

Do This:

1. Erect ‘wet floor’ signs and barricades to stop people from walking on the floor.

2. Scrape off stickers and chewing gum.

3. Sweep the floor.

4. Scrub the floor with Novadet at 1 in 30, using blue or red pads. Then mop floor with clean hot water.

5. Let the floor dry.

6. Buff the floor, then sweep up dust.

7. Ask your supervisor if the floor needs to be coated with just topcoat, or both basecoat and topcoat (see note below).

8. If applying both basecoat and topcoat, first mop on a coat of Granoseal basecoat. Just go over the bare patches – don’t coat the uniform, shiny areas or along the edges at the walls. (Granoseal can safely go over the previous topcoat).

9. Wait until the Granoseal is dry and non-sticky. Test for this by pressing the back of your hand on the floor when it looks dry.

10. DO NOT apply topcoat if floor is still sticky.

11. Mop on one coat of topcoat (Masterpiece, 3D-Gloss or Traverso).

12. Next day, buff the floor to bring up the shine.

Note for Supervisors:

It is best to recoat the floor before traffic has worn down the Granoseal basecoating. However, if the floor has already been worn bare, a new base coat of Granoseal must be applied to the bare areas. Then the Masterpiece, 3D-Gloss or Traverso topcoats can be applied. The Granoseal basecoat will help the topcoat to bond to the floor. The topcoats should not be mopped onto bare terrazzo or marble because they could flake off under traffic.








TASK SHEET – FC02

How to Seal

TERRAZZO, MARBLE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE, LIMESTONE & SADLER TILE

Issued: 17 July, 2003 Page 1 of 2

Products to use: GRANOSEAL MASTERPIECE or TRAVERSO or 3D-GLOSS (choose one) Equipment: Polish mop - or - Watering can Wringer bucket Polish fringe mop Buffing machine and pad

Do This:

1. Strip old polish, build-ups, wax and dirt from floor (see Task Sheet FC05 for method).

2. Let the floor completely dry.

3. DO NOT buff the floor.

4. Mop on one coat of Granoseal. This can be done with a clean polish mop and wringer bucket (which is best) or a clean fringemop and watering can. Spread the pour line as soon as possible after pouring. Lay the sealer up to the edges. Lay sealer as thinly as possible – never in pools as it will take ages to cure. Do not walk on floor until it is dry.

To mop on a coat of sealer with bucket and mop:

Rinse new mops in clean water first. Always use clean mops that are kept for polishing only. Never use dirty or stripper mops.

Pour the sealer into a clean wringer bucket. Start with half a bucket of sealer, or less if it is a small floor.

Dip the mop into the sealer and let it get saturated. Don’t make bubbles in the sealer.

Lift the mop up and draw the strings through the wringer under a light pressure. The mop should not be dripping sealer, when it is correctly wrung out, but it must be wet.

Put the mop on the floor, and frame up an area by coating three sides of a square area (to your left, in front of you and to your right). Fill this area by moving mop from side to side in a figure of eight motion as you walk backwards. Make sure every part is coated.

Frame up next area and repeat until the whole floor area has been coated.








TASK SHEET – FC02

Continued

How to Seal TERRAZZO, MARBLE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE, LIMESTONE & SADLER TILE

Page 2 of 2

5. Let the first coat dry. It must not only be dry but also tack free, or not sticky, before laying the second coat. Test by placing your hand on the floor.

6. Mop on a second coat of Granoseal, but this time stay 30cm (12 inches) away from edges, along walls and furniture. The second coat, if being applied with the bucket and mop, should be laid at 90 degrees to the way the first coat was laid.

7. Again, let the Granoseal dry until it is not sticky to touch.

8. Using a clean fringe, mop on five coats of topcoat (Masterpiece, Traverso or 3D-Gloss), allowing each coat to dry before laying the next. Keep 30cm from edges, except for the last coat which should go up to the edges.

9. Give the floor six hours or more to cure, then buff the floor with Jackeroo pads (on ultra-high speed buffer) or red pads (on medium-speed buffer).

10. Clean mops, pads and buckets with hot water and hang them up to dry. If fringes are to be used again soon, place them in a clean black garbage bag and seal the end so the fringe will stay wet until next time it is used.

Note:

MASTERPIECE is formulated for extra-long life and high gloss.

Traverso is designed for long life and high gloss.

3D-Gloss is designed for very high gloss.

Granoseal must be used so the film will bond to the floor and not flake off.

Avoid sealing very cold floors (below 9˚C). If you must seal a cold floor, lay very thin coats at least one hour apart.

Coverage: On average, one litre of sealer will cover 55 square metres of floor (one coat only). In practice, the first coat will require more sealer, and the last coats will require less. Porous floors will take more sealer.








TASK SHEET – FC03

Daily cleaning of floors

TERRAZZO, MARBLE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE, LIMESTONE AND SADLER TILE


Products to use: SYMPOL B Equipment: Scraper Dustmop or broom Autoscrubber with red or blue pads Mop Gas buffer and pad

Do This:

1. Scrape off old stickers and chewing gum.

2. Sweep the floor to remove litter.

3. Wash the floor with an autoscrubber fitted with red or tan pads.

4. Fill the solution tank with warm water and 1 litre of SYMPOL B per 80 litres of water (eg. For 160L water, add 2L of SYMPOL B.

5. Scrub the floor covering all areas.

6. If wet turn marks are left behind, mop these off with a clean damp mop.

7. When the floor is all clean and dry, buff the floor with a gas buffer, fitted with Lustrelite pads.

8. Sweep floor to remove dust.

9. Always rinse out the solution tank to remove SYMPOL B from the inside surfaces at the end of the shift.

Note:

If the floor is very dirty, use Novadet at 1:80 instead of SYMPOL B.

If there are spillages that are hard to remove, eg. oil, mop these up first using Novadet at 1:30.

Never buff the floor unless it is totally clean.

Do not over-dilute SYMPOL B because it will be too weak to effectively remove all of the dirt.








TASK SHEET – FC03.1


TERRAZZO, MARBLE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE, LIMESTONE AND SADLER TILE


Products to use: AUTOSCRUB Equipment: Scraper Dustmop or broom Autoscrubber with red or blue pads Mop Gas buffer and pad

Do This:



3. Wash the floor with an autoscrubber fitted with red or tan pads.

4. Fill the solution tank with warm water and 1 litre of Autoscrub per 80 litres of water (eg. For 160L water, add 2L of Autoscrub).



7. When the floor is all clean and dry, buff the floor with a gas buffer, fitted with Jackeroo pads.


Note:

If there are spillages that are hard to remove, eg. oil, mop these up first using Autoscrub at 1:30.









TASK SHEET – FC03.2


EXFOLIATED GRANITE


Products to use: NOVADET HF DETERGENT Equipment: Scraper Dustmop or broom Autoscrubber with white nylon brushes Mop and wringer bucket Scrubbing brush (if no autoscrubber is available)

Do This:

Daily:

1. Scrape off chewing gum, labels or stickers, using scraper.

2. Sweep the floor with dustmop or broom to remove all litter.

3. Prepare solution of NOVADET at 1 in 50 (e.g. for 50L water, add 1L of NOVADET). This solution can be prepared in the solution tank of the scrubbing machine or, if not available, in a wringer bucket.

4. Scrub all areas of the floor with the scrubbing machine. If a scrubber is not available, pour the solution on floor, scrub with scrubbing brush, then mop up with clean water.

Every 6 months:

Repeat the above process but instead of NOVADET use HF Detergent and rinse the floor with clean water after picking up the detergent solution.

Note:

Oil spots can be removed using a poultice of mineral turpentine and Cleansing Powder. See Task Sheet FC-04.








TASK SHEET – FC04

How to remove

OIL STAINS from TERRAZZO, BRICK, CONCRETE & POROUS STONE SURFACES

Issued: 2 March, 2015 Page 1 of 2

When: As needed Products to use: MINERAL TURPENTINE CLEANSING POWDER BOWL CLEAN Equipment: No Smoking signs Spatula or Paint Scraper Barriers Broom and dustpan

Do This:

1. Obtain permission to use solvent within a building.

2. Erect barriers around the oil stains.

3. Put up ‘NO SMOKING’ signs around the area.

4. Pour neat Mineral Turpentine onto each oil stain. Use enough to wet the stain all over, but do not make puddles. Treat only 2 or 3 stains at a time.

5. Immediately sprinkle Cleansing Powder by hand (wear gloves) over the stain until it is completely covered with a 2mm thick layer of powder. Mix the powder with the Mineral Turpentine until it forms a smooth paste, adding more Mineral Turpentine if it is too dry. Trowel the paste evenly over the oil stains using the spatula or paint scraper.

6. Let the paste dry overnight (or at least 4 hours).

7. When it is dry, sweep up the powder. Place it in a plastic bag and into the rubbish bin.

8. Rinse off with water and detergent (e.g., Novadet at 1 in 50) to remove residues of powder. On bluestone or granite ONLY, a rinse with Bowlclean at 1 in 10 with water will dissolve the powder that is stuck in the pores. Rinse away with plenty of water. Do not apply Bowlclean to terrazzo, limestone, marble or concrete.








TASK SHEET – FC04

Continued

How to remove OIL STAINS from TERRAZZO, BRICK, CONCRETE & POROUS STONE

Page 2 of 2

Notes & Cautions:

Mineral Turpentine is a flammable solvent. Keep smokers away.

Do not use near flames (eg. pilot lights, sparks or heaters).

Do not use any cleaning or scrubbing machines nearby.

It is best to treat stains one at a time and not try to cover the whole floor at once.

The Mineral Turpentine dissolves the oil deep in the pores of the stone and as it evaporates, carries the oil up into the absorbent powder. This process takes many hours and for successful results, the correct contact time must be observed.

If one treatment is not totally successful, another treatment can be applied. This procedure should only be carried out by trained cleaning staff who are aware of the safety precautions required for using Mineral Turpentine.








TASK SHEET – FC05

Stripping floors

VINYL, TERRAZZO, MARBLE, LIMESTONE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE & SADLER TILE

Issued: 17 July, 2003 Page 1 of 2

Products to use: ULTRASTRIP Equipment: Dustmop or broom Stripper mops Scraper Black handpads Wet floor signs Rotary scrubbing machine & black pad Cardboard Rinse mops Wringer bucket Wet vacuum or Autoscrubber

Do This:

1. Sweep the floor to remove any rubbish.

2. Scrape off any chewing gum and labels.

3. Erect ‘wet floor’ signs and barricades to keep people off the floor.

4. Place a large piece of cardboard on the floor next to the area being stripped. When you walk off the area with stripper on your shoes, step onto the cardboard to dry off your shoes. This will prevent ‘footprints’ appearing all over the floor.

5. Using a wringer bucket with 12 litres of cold water in it, add 1¼ litres of Ultrastrip (5 cups). This is a 1:10 solution. If the floor has a thick coating, use double this amount (1:5 solution).

6. Dip a stripper mop (old or used mops are OK) into the bucket of solution. Remove mop from bucket without wringing and let stripper pour all over floor. Repeat this process until the entire area is covered with a thick coating of stripper solution.

7. If stripping a large area, divide floor into easy to manage sections and strip one section at a time.

8. Leave the stripper on the floor for ten minutes, giving time to attack the sealer. Spread it with the mop if it dries or runs – always keep the floor evenly wet. During this time scrub the feet of shelves and fittings to remove old sealer and dirt.

9. When time is up, scrub the floor with a scrubber (turn vacuum off) and black pads. Scrub the whole floor, starting at the point nearest to the power point if using an electric machine. Spend longer scrubbing the edges because the sealer will be thicker there.

10. Test the floor by wiping the sealer aside and scraping with a coin to see if all old sealer film has been removed. If not, keep scrubbing.

GLOVES MUST BE WORN








TASK SHEET – FC05

Continued

Stripping Floors VINYL, TERRAZZO, MARBLE, LIMESTONE, AGGLOMERATE MARBLE & SADLER TILE

Page 2 of 2

11. When all the old film has been dissolved, mop up or wet-vacuum the stripper slurry off the floor. Do not let it dry out on the floor. If this happens, pour hot water on the area and scrub with black pads again to break down the film.

12. After picking up the slurry, immediately flood the floor with plenty of clean hot water (avoid letting water go under doors or onto carpets).

13. Mop this water over the floor to ensure it breaks down any stripper/film residues.

14. Wet vacuum or mop up the rinse water.

15. Rinse once more with a mop or autoscrubber and clean hot water.

16. Let floor dry. Check that all old sealer has been removed.

17. It is now ready to be sealed.

Note:

It is not necessary to neutralise Ultrastrip as long as plenty of rinse water is used.

It creates problems if the stripper is used too strong. If strong stripper soaks into a porous floor that has worn bare, it can be difficult to rinse it out, and it will attack the sealer. Therefore, don’t use strong stripper (more than 1:5) unless there is a very thick coating or a heavy build-up of sealer.

Use cold water with Ultrastrip and hot water to rinse.

Wear gator shoes, if available, to prevent slipping over on the wet floor.

Coverage: One litre of Ultrastrip will strip from 90 to 180 square metres of floor, depending on the thickness of the film of old sealer.








TASK SHEET – FC06

How to remove

RUST STAINS from TERRAZZO FLOORS

Issued: 2 March, 2015 When: As needed Products to use: HYDROCHLORIC ACID 6.6% GRANOSEAL CONCOURSE 3 Equipment: Plastic bucket Sponge or cloth

Do This:

1. Inspect the stains. They may have been caused by rusty water, battery acid or steel

fittings touching the floor.

2. If the stains are fresh and not too deep, an acid can be used to remove them. However, if they are old and have soaked into the terrazzo, they will need to be ground off by the terrazzo supply company using abrasive grinding wheels.

3. Using an acid to remove the rust will etch the terrazzo. This means that it may lose its shine if it is a polished floor. The shine can be restored by honing the floor; this can be done by the terrazzo supply company.

4. Measure out ¾ litre of cold water in a plastic bucket then add to it ¼ litre of Hydrochloric Acid 6.6%. Wear gloves.

5. Using a sponge or cloth dipped in the acid solution, wring out then apply the acid onto the rust stain. Avoid spilling any drips onto the floor as they will show up later. Repeat applying the acid carefully until the brown stain is all gone.

6. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water. This is very important to prevent the stain reappearing

7. The area can be re-sealed with Granoseal and Concourse 3 to restore the gloss to the floor.

8. If this treatment did not remove all of the stains, it means the rust has penetrated deep into the terrazzo. Only a terrazzo supply company can repair this type of deep stain.

Notes & Cautions:

Hydrochloric Acid 6.6% is corrosive to the skin and eyes and must be handled very carefully.

It is wise to test the above method on a tiny spot of the stain first to see how the floor reacts to the treatment.

GLOVES MUST BE WORN








TASK SHEET – FC07

How to seal

VINYL TILE FLOORS


Products to use: MASTERPIECE or TRAVERSO 3D-GLOSS Equipment: Polish mop - or - Watering can Wringer bucket Polish fringe mop Buffing machine and pad

Do This:

1. Strip old polish, build-ups, wax and dirt from floor (see Task Sheet FC05 for method).

2. Rinse floor and allow to dry, then fringe mop to remove any dust.

3. Buff the floor.

4. Mop on 2-4 coats of MASTERPIECE or Traverso. This can be done with a clean polish mop and wringer bucket (which is best) or a clean fringemop and watering can. Spread the pour line as soon as possible after pouring. Lay the sealer up to the edges. Lay sealer as thinly as possible – never in pools as it will take ages to cure. Allow 20 – 30 minutes to dry between coats. Do not walk on floor until it is dry.















TASK SHEET – FC07

Continued

How to seal VINYL TILE FLOORS

Page 2 of 2

5. Let the first coat dry. Test by placing your hand on the floor.

6. Mop on a second coat of MASTERPIECE or Traverso, but this time stay 30cm (12 inches) away from edges, along walls and furniture. The second coat, if being applied with the bucket and mop, should be laid at 90 degrees to the way the first coat was laid.

7. Again, let the sealer dry.

8. Mop on three coats of 3D-Gloss, allowing each coat to dry before laying the next. Keep 30cm from edges, except for the last coat which should go up to the edges.

9. Give the floor six hours or more to cure, then buff the floor with Jackeroo pads (on ultra-high speed buffer) or red pads (on medium-speed buffer). (Are the pads correct?)


Note:

MASTERPIECE and Traverso are designed for long life and high gloss.

3D-Gloss is designed for very high gloss and good durability.










TASK SHEET – FC08

How to Recoat

VINYL TILE FLOORS


Products to use: NOVADET 3D-GLOSS Equipment: Scraper Buffing machine with pads Fringemop or Broom Polishing mop Rotary scrubbing machine Wringer bucket Blue pads to suit scrubber

Do This:

1. Erect ‘wet floor’ signs and barricades to stop people from walking on the

floor.

2. Scrape off stickers and chewing gum.

3. Sweep the floor.

4. Wash the floor with Novadet at 1 in 30, using blue or red pads. Then mop floor with clean hot water.

5. Let the floor dry.

6. Buff the floor, then sweep up dust.

7. Mop on one coat of 3D-Gloss.

8. Next day, buff the floor to further enhance the shine.








TASK SHEET – FC09


VINYL TILE FLOORS


Products to use: SYMPOL B NOVADET Equipment: Scraper Dustmop or broom Autoscrubber with red pads Mop Gas buffer and pad

Do This:



3. Wash the floor with an autoscrubber fitted with red pads.

4. Fill the solution tank with warm water and 1 part SYMPOL B in 100 parts water.



7. When the floor is all clean and dry, buff the floor with a gas buffer, fitted with Jackeroo pads.


9. Always rinse out the solution tank to remove SYMPOL B from the inside surfaces at the end of the shift.

Note:

If the floor is very dirty, use Novadet at 1:80 instead of SYMPOL B.

If there are spillages that are hard to remove, eg. oil, mop these up first using Novadet at 1:30.









TASK SHEET – FC10

How to Seal

HIGH TRAFFIC TIMBER FLOORS In Assembly Halls, Multi-purpose Sports Stadiums, Council Halls, etc.

Page 1 of 2

Issued: 2 March, 2015 Products to use: TOPSTRIP TIMBERCOAT MASTERPIECE

Procedure: Floor Preparation – Sealed Floors

1. Floors coated with a sealer finish or wax:

Mop Topstrip (neat) onto a workable sized area. DO NOT flood the floor: only apply enough to wet the film of sealer.

Scrub with a rotary machine using a black pad.

Scrub the edges and corners with hand pads or doodle pads.

Mop up the stripping slurry.

Rinse with water.

Repeat on the next areas until the whole floor has been stripped.

Avoid stripping through the basecoat to bare timber.

Cut back floor by buffing with a 100 mesh screen disc fitted under a black pad on a slow speed single disc buffing machine. Buff the disc right across the floor in one pass and then make an overlapping pass back to the first side. Continue in this way. Turn the disc over after 25 metres, and fit a new one after both sides have been used. Do not use a torn or broken disc as it may scratch the floor. Make sure the floor receives an even cutback all over.

Vacuum up the dust.

Wipe all over the floor with a ‘tack rag’ (a cloth dampened with mineral turpentine to make the dust stick to it).

Arrange for new lines to be marked if required.

Apply Timbercoat (see page 2).

OR

2. Floors coated only with oil-based sealer:

Mop floor clean with Novadet at 1 in 20.

Rinse clean.

Cut back (see above for method).

Arrange for new lines to be marked if required.

Apply Timbercoat (see page 2).








TASK SHEET – FC10

Continued

How to Seal HIGH TRAFFIC TIMBER FLOORS

Page 2 of 2

Procedure: Floor Preparation – New, Bare Timber Floors

1. Punch all nails to a depth of 3mm below the floor surface.

2. Floor should be sanded by professional operators.

3. Vacuum clean the floor and then wipe over with a cloth moistened with mineral turpentine (tack rag) to remove all traces of dust.

4. Apply one coat of TIMBERCOAT with a lambswool applicator. Pour TIMBERCOAT into a seal tray and dip the applicator in to pick up sealer. Spread the TIMBERCOAT evenly and liberally along the grain, working backwards and forwards to work the sealer into the pores. Do not puddle sealer onto floor, and do not leave any dry or bare patches. Allow to dry – about six to eight hours. Wash out applicator in turpentine when finished.

5. Fill nail holes now with a colour matched filler or putty.

6. To smooth out the surface, lightly buff the floor with a round steelwool donut (grade 1) under a slow speed buffing machine. Steelwool the edges and corners by hand.

7. Vacuum and then tack rag the whole floor.

8. Arrange for line marking to be done now (if required).

9. Apply Timbercoat.

Applying the TIMBERCOAT Sealer:

1. Pour TIMBERCOAT into seal tray.

2. Dip lambswool applicator into seal then spread a coat on the floor, first moving the applicator across the grain and then finishing by pulling it along the grain towards you. Be careful not to leave any streaks in the coating. It must be smooth and free from streaks now.

3. The procedure can be made easier if two people work as a team. The first person applies sealer across the grain, starting in the corner and coating an area 1m wide and 2m along the boards. The second person smooths out this area by pulling the applicator along the floor boards to even out the coating. The team then coats the next area, continuing until the whole floor is coated.

4. Leave to dry – about 8 hours.

5. Ventilation will promote drying.

6. Apply a second coat of TIMBERCOAT if considered necessary using the same method.

7. Allow the floor to dry and cure fully. This takes about 3 days normally. Heavy traffic and activities should not be allowed on the floor until it has cured.

8. Apply four coats of MASTERPIECE using bucket mops.

9. Maintain the floor as indicated in Task Sheet FC11.








TASK SHEET – FC11

How to Maintain

HIGH TRAFFIC TIMBER FLOORS Sealed with TIMBERCOAT & MASTERPIECE


Products to use: AUTOSCRUB NOVADET MASTERPIECE Equipment: Fringe mop or soft broom Mop and wringer bucket Buffing machine and pad Polish mop and wringer bucket

Daily

1. Sweep the floor to remove dust using a fringe mop or soft hair broom. Do not use

oiled mops.

2. Clean up any spillages by spot mopping with AUTOSCRUB at 1 in 50.

3. Buff the floor at least twice per week, preferably every day.

Every Week

1. Scrub the floor with NOVADET at 1 in 30.

2. Rinse by mopping or autoscrubbing with clean water.

3. Allow floor to dry.

4. Apply 1 or 2 coats of MASTERPIECE to the heavy traffic areas. Avoid applying it to the edges.

5. Allow to harden at least 4 hours then buff floor.

Note for Supervisors:

When floors are used for dances and busy functions every week, it will probably be necessary to recoat weekly. If the traffic is not this heavy, the recoating may be extended to once a fortnight or every three weeks. The MASTERPIECE coating must be kept topped up so that the underlying Timbercoat is protected at all times.








TASK SHEET – FC12

How to Maintain

FLOORS SEALED WITH 3D-GLOSS


Daily:

1. Sweep the floor to remove dust and litter using a fringe mop sweeper.

2. Wash Floor: Scrub with AUTOSCRUB at 1:60. If the floor is heavily soiled, more detergent should be used.

3. Buff Floor: Using a gas buffer or battery burnisher and soft, Ultra High Speed pads with no natural hair fibres or an electric buffer with tan pad/s.

Harsh pads must be avoided or they will grind down the film.

Every 2 or 3 Weeks:

The floor should be recoated whenever the traffic has worn the shine off the centre of the aisles. This could happen with in 2 weeks under heavy supermarket traffic, or 3 weeks with lighter traffic. In a hospital, it could take 3 months. 1. Sweep up dust and litter from the floor.

2. Scrub the floor with NOVADET at 1 in 30 using blue pads. This is to cut back the floor and give it an extra-deep clean in preparation for laying more sealer.

3. Apply one coat of 3D-GLOSS (if using fringe mop method) or two coats (if using a bucket mop). Don’t apply the sealer any closer than 30cm from the edges – doing so will cause build ups along the edging.

4. Allow to dry. Next day, resume Daily Maintenance.

Every 6 to 12 Months:

Strip the floor and re-apply the film using MASTERPIECE or TRAVERSO as the base coat and 3D-GLOSS on top. The decision to strip the floor is usually made when the film is discoloured (brown or grey and patchy looking) and the shine is worn out or scratched deeply. If the floor is maintained well and kept very clean, it may be possible to extend the period between strips to a full year.








TASK SHEET – FC13

How to Clean

CERAMIC TILE FLOORS with an autoscrubbing machine


Page 1 of 2 Shifter Detergent has been specially formulated for cleaning ceramic tile floors. It lifts and dissolves stubborn soils and prevents them from re-depositing back onto the cleaned surface. When: Daily Products to use: SHIFTER DETERGENT Equipment: Automatic scrubbing machine with blue pads and also with nylon brushes

Do This:

1. Work out the amount of water in the scrubber tank. This can be done easily by filling 10L

buckets with water and counting how many are needed to fill the tank.

2. Work out how much SHIFTER to add:

For Heavy Soilage, add 1 part Shifter per 50 parts water (for a 100L tank, add 2L Shifter).

For Light Soilage, add 1 part Shifter per 100 parts water (for a 100L tank, add 1L Shifter).

Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when pouring this product. Add Shifter to the tank.

3. Sweep the floor to remove litter. Scrape off any label stickers or chewing gum.

4. Fit the nylon brushes to the scrubbing machine.

5. Scrub the floor with a generous flow of solution onto the floor and squeegee vacuuming up the dirty solution.

6. Make sure all of the floor is scrubbed. Travel more slowly over the dirtier, heavy-traffic areas.


8. Return the scrubber to the cleaners room, dump the dirty water, remove and wash down the brushes. Put the equipment away in the correct location.

9. For the next two days, use blue pads instead of brushes. On the fourth day, use brushes again and continue this cycle, using brushes twice per week.

GLOVES MUST BE WORN








TASK SHEET – FC13

Continued

How to Clean

CERAMIC TILE FLOORS with an autoscrubbing machine

Page 2 of 2

Notes:

1. Brushes are used twice a week to keep the grout lines clean. If the grout lines are dirty, use

brushes every day until they are clean. Dirty grout lines will make the floor dirty because the squeegee will drag dirt from the lines onto the face of the tiles.

2. Make sure the detergent solution flows generously onto the floor. If the floor doesn’t “see”

enough liquid, the squeegee won’t pick up all of the dirt. The dirt must be flushed off the floor, otherwise it will make “mud” and be smeared across the floor instead of being removed.

3. Remember that the effect of Shifter at 1 in 50 is completely different from the same

detergent at 1 in 100. Likewise, it is more powerful again at 1 in 25, but this is only recommended for very hard-to-clean floors. If the floor doesn’t come clean using Shifter at 1 in 50, try 1 in 25. The amount of detergent needs to be matched to the amount of soil and the difficulty of removing it.

4. Problem Ceramic Tiles: Some tiles are very porous and the dirt is absorbed deep into the tile surface. Lay-

scrubbing may be needed to clean these tiles:

1. Put up Wet Floor signs around the area to be scrubbed.

2. Scrub the dirty floor with vacuum off. This will lay solution onto the floor.

3. Scrub over the now-wet floor again, this time with solution off and vacuum off. Allow 10 minutes for the solution to work, but don’t let it dry out. Lay more if necessary.

4. After this dwell time, during which the chemical is attacking the dirt, switch the vacuum on and scrub the floor again to pick up the dirty solution.

5. If the floor is really hard to clean, you can lay Shifter at 1 in 25 from a mop-bucket and use plain water in the scrubber tank for picking up.

6. If lay-scrubbing still doesn’t clean the tiles, please contact you Agar Cleaning System Representative for advice on alternative methods to use on very hard to clean tiles.








TASK SHEET – FC14

How to seal

HARD FLOORS


Products to use: DURO Equipment: Polish mop - or - Watering can Wringer bucket Polish fringe mop Buffing machine and pad For: Timber, Vinyl, Cork, Terrazzo, Marble, Limestone, Sadler and

Ceramic tile surfaces

Do This:

1. Strip old polish, build-ups, wax and dirt from floor (see Task Sheet FC05 for

method).

2. Let the floor completely dry.

3. Buff the floor.

4. Mop on one coat of DURO. This can be done with a clean polish mop and wringer bucket (which is best) or a clean fringemop and watering can. Spread the pour line as soon as possible after pouring. Lay the sealer up to the edges. Lay sealer as thinly as possible – never in pools as it will take ages to cure. Do not walk on floor until it is dry.















TASK SHEET – FC14

Continued

How to seal HARD FLOORS

Page 2 of 2

5. Let the first coat dry. Test by placing your hand on the floor.

6. Mop on a second coat of DURO, but this time stay 30cm (12 inches) away from edges, along walls and furniture. The second coat, if being applied with the bucket and mop, should be laid at 90 degrees to the way the first coat was laid.

7. Again, let the sealer dry.

8. Mop on two further coats of DURO, allowing each coat to dry before laying the next. Keep 30cm from edges, except for the last coat which should go up to the edges.

9. Give the floor six hours or more to cure, then buff the floor with Jackeroo pads (on ultra-high speed buffer) or red pads (on medium-speed buffer).


Note:

DURO is designed for long life, good durability and high gloss. You can also use Masterpiece, Super Nova, Palazzo or Traverso depending on the floor material. Traffic volume and maintenance methods.










TASK SHEET – FC15

How to Maintain

CERAMIC TILE FLOORS SEALED WITH MASTERPIECE

Issued: 2 March 2015 Page 1 of 2

Products to use: MASTERPIECE FLORPREP AUTOSCRUB Equipment: Wet Floor Sign Fringe Mop Wringer Bucket - or - Bucket Mop Broom/Dustpan Nylon Deck Scrubber - or - Nylon Machine Brush For: Ceramic tile surfaces

Important Note: This procedure only applies to ceramic tiles which are porous enough for the sealer to penetrate and form a strong bond. It is not suitable for non-porous tiles. To test this, apply MASTERPIECE sealer to one tile after cleaning. Let dry, then stick a piece of packaging tape across the sealed section, keeping one end loose. Press the tape down, then rip it off. If the sealer comes off, the tile is not suitable to be sealed.

Daily:

1. Sweep the floor to remove dust and litter.

This can be done with broom and dustpan or a fringe-mop (which is more suitable for large areas). Scrape up any labels or chewing gum from the floor.

2. Put up “Wet Floor” signs.

3. Mop the floor with AUTOSCRUB DETERGENT diluted as follows:

Dilution rate = 1 in 60

This is : 170mls or 2/3 cup per 10L of water (1 bucket full).

Dip the mop in this solution and wring out until wet but not dripping.

Move the mop over the floor, starting at the far corner of the room and working towards the door, covering all areas evenly.

4. If the mop becomes loaded with soil, dip it back into the detergent in the bucket and wring it out. Continue mopping.

5. If the detergent solution becomes dirty, tip it out and make a fresh solution. Do not mop the floor with dirty water.








TASK SHEET – FC15

Continued

How to Maintain

CERAMIC TILE FLOORS SEALED WITH MASTERPIECE


Every 2 or 3 weeks:

The floor should be scrubbed with a nylon deck-scrubber or a nylon machine brush using AUTOSCRUB at 1 in 60. This is necessary to remove soilage from the grout lines where it tends to accumulate. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Resume Daily Maintenance.

Every 6 months: (or when required)

The floor should be re-coated whenever the traffic has worn the shine off the centre of the walkways. 1. Sweep up dust and litter from the floor.

2. Scrub the floor with FLORPREP at 1 in 30 using blue pads. This is to cut back the floor and give it an extra-deep clean in preparation for laying more sealer.

3. Apply one coat of MASTERPIECE (if using fringe mop method) or two coats (if using a bucket mop). Don’t apply the sealer any closer than 30cm from the edges – doing so will cause build ups along the edging.

4. Allow to dry. Next day, resume Daily Maintenance.

This is also the correct process for applying sealer in cases where a spillage may have attacked or removed the MASTERPIECE.

Every 2 Years:

Strip the floor and re-apply the film using MASTERPEIECE. The decision to strip the floor is usually made when the film is discoloured (brown or grey and patchy looking) and the shine is worn out or scratched deeply. If the floor is maintained well and kept very clean, it may be possible to extend the period between strips to a full 2 years.








TASK SHEET – FC16

How to Maintain

LINOLEUM & MARMOLEUM FLOORS


Note: These floors contain natural materials. Cleaning products with high pH levels must NOT be used.

A. INITIAL CLEAN UP:

Do this: 1. Sweep or vacuum the floor to remove the litter or rubbish. 2. Scrub the floor using:

pH7 Detergent at a dilution of 1 in 50; and

a red pad or bassine brush. 3. To remove stubborn marks or stains, wipe with a rag moistened with Mineral Turpentine or

White Spirit. 4. Take care not to remove the factory finish.

B. FOR A MATT FINISH

Do this: 1. Clean the floor: sweep then mop with pH7 Detergent at 1 in 50. 2. When floor is clean, spray buff the floor using:

a slow speed buffing machine (200 – 400 rpm);

a red pad; and

SYMPOL B diluted to 1 in 20 with water.

C. FOR A HIGH GLOSS FINISH

Do this: 1. Clean the floor: sweep then mop with pH7 Detergent at 1 in 50. 2. When floor is clean and dry, apply 3 coats of MASTERPIECE Floor Sealer finish. In heavy

wear areas or where spillages may occur (e.g. bar areas, heavy traffic zones, etc) apply 4 coats of MASTERPIECE.

3. Spray buff the floor using:

a slow speed buffing machine (200 – 400 rpm);

a red pad; and

SYMPOL B diluted to 1 in 20 with water. 4. To remove stubborn marks or stains – use Mineral Turpentine or White Spirit sparingly. 5. If at anytime the floor needs stripping, use method detailed in Task Sheet FC17.








TASK SHEET – FC16

Continued

How to Maintain



D. TO RECOAT THE FLOOR IF THE FINISH IS WORN:

Do this: 1. Sweep the floor to remove dust and litter. 2. Scrub the floor using:

a slow speed buffing machine (200-400 rpm);

a blue pad;

NOVADET diluted to 1 part in 30 parts water. 3. Rinse floor by mopping with clean hot water and allow it to dry. 4. Apply 1 to 2 coats of MASTERPIECE to the worn areas. 5. Spray buff the floor using:

a slow speed buffing machine (200-400 rpm);

a red pad; and

SYMPOL B diluted to 1 in 20 with water. IMPORTANT NOTES: This kind of flooring is made from linseed oil and wood flour. NEVER use chemicals with a high pH level on this floor as it can turn yellow, dry and powdery if it comes into contact with alkaline materials. Using the methods and products above will protect, enhance and preserve the floor.

Marmoleum is a registered trademark of Forbo Floor Coverings.








TASK SHEET – FC17

How to Strip

LINOLEUM & MARMOLEUM FLOORS (and remove yellowing)


Products to use: FLORPREP BROWNING TREATMENT Equipment: Dustmop or broom Stripper mops Scraper Blue handpads Wet floor signs Rotary scrubbing machine & blue pad Cardboard Rinse mops Wringer bucket Wet vacuum or Autoscrubber

Do This:

1. Sweep the floor to remove any rubbish.

2. Scrape off any chewing gum and labels.

3. Erect ‘wet floor’ signs and barricades to keep people off the floor.

4. Place a large piece of cardboard on the floor next to the area being stripped. When you walk off the area with stripper on your shoes, step onto the cardboard to dry off your shoes. This will prevent ‘footprints’ appearing all over the floor.

5. Using a wringer bucket with 12 litres of cold water in it, add 1 ½ litres of FLORPREP (6 cups). This is a 1:8 solution. If the floor has only a thin film of polish to be stripped, use only 3 cups of FLORPREP per 12L cold water. This is 1 in 16.

6. Dip a stripper mop (old or used mops are OK) into the bucket of solution. Remove mop from bucket without wringing and let stripper pour over floor. Repeat this process until the entire area is wet with a coating of stripper solution.

7. If stripping a large area, divide floor into easy to manage sections and strip one section at a time.

8. Leave the FLORPREP solution on the floor for ten minutes, giving it time to attack the sealer. Spread it with the mop if it dries or runs – always keep the floor evenly wet. During this time scrub the feet of shelves and fittings with the blue hand pad to remove old sealer and dirt.

9. When time is up, scrub the floor with a scrubber (turn vacuum off) and blue pads. Scrub the whole floor, starting at the point nearest to the power point if using an electric machine. Spend longer scrubbing the edges because the sealer will be thicker there.

10. Test the floor by wiping the sealer aside and scraping with a coin to see if all old sealer film has been removed. If not, keep scrubbing. On the other hand, if the slurry is turning the same colour as the linoleum, STOP SCRUBBING AT ONCE!

GLOVES MUST BE WORN








TASK SHEET – FC17

Continued

How to Strip


(and remove yellowing)

Page 2 of 2

11. When all the old film has been dissolved mop up or wet-vacuum the stripper slurry off the floor. Do not let it dry out on the floor. If this happens, pour hot water on the area and scrub with blue pads again to break down the film.

12. After picking up the slurry immediately wet the floor with plenty of rinse solution (but avoid letting solution go under doors or onto carpets). The rinse solution should be made by mixing 660ml of BROWNING TREATMENT with 10L of hot water.

13. Mop this solution over the floor to ensure it breaks down any stripper/film residues.

14. Wet vacuum or mop up the rinse water.

15. Rinse once more with a mop or autoscrubber and clean hot water.

16. Let floor dry. Check that all old sealer has been removed.

17. It is now ready to be sealed. Refer to Task Sheet FC16 for instructions on how to do this.

Note:

It is necessary to neutralise residues of FLORPREP in the floor by rinsing with BROWNING TREATMENT in the rinse water (660ml per 10L) so as to prevent yellowing of the linoleum.

It creates problems if the stripper is used too strong. Linoleum is attacked by alkaline chemicals. NEVER use a stronger solution than 1 in 8 and do not use a highly-alkaline or caustic stripper as it could wreck the floor.

Use cold water with FLORPREP and hot water to rinse.

Wear “gator” shoes, if available, to prevent slipping over on the wet floor.

Coverage: One litre of FLORPREP will strip from 90 to 180 square metres of floor, depending on the thickness of the film of old sealer.


HOW TO RECOAT TERRAZZO AND MARBLE FLOORS ......Fringemop or Broom Polishing mop Rotary scrubbing...

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