History of Costume

History of Costume

Dark Ages Edwardian Era500 A.D. - 1914{The Dark AgesSaxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D.A continuation of the tunic Belted at the waist or hipMen begin to wear trouser like garments LeggingsCloaks fur lined & some woolFastened with brooches

Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htmThe Dark AgesThe Anglo Saxon Era 700 999 Similar to the Saxon & Frankish EraHoods were added to cloaks in the 9th centuryThe wrap over coat and waist coat appearedBegan to see class distinction through dressNobility had embellishments on the collar, waist or border of their tunicsNobility wore longer tunicsWorking class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunicsTHINK MOVIE: King Arthur

3The Dark Ages

Anglo-Saxon King & QueenAnglo-Saxon Lady & Women

Anglo-Saxon Warrior & ManThomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htm4The Dark AgesThe Anglo Saxon Era 1000-1099 Men Continued to wear tunics but shorterPiercings became popularCoifs flat, round capsLong stockings with feet & short bootsWomenLong woolen gown sometimes 2 layersInner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleevesWore cloak or mantle over outer gownBegan to wear head covering unless very young

Think Movies:Beowolf & GrendelTristan & IsoldeThe 13th WarriorThe Dark Ages 500-1100

Medieval/Middle AgesEarly Period: 1100-1199simple shaped fitted tunic for menLong, wide gown with decorative embroidery for womenThe Bliaut was a dress worn by woman or men in this time period.Hose took the place of trousersTHINK MOVIE: Robin Hood

Medieval/Middle AgesAfter 1200MenTight short clothes with long pointed shoesThe longer the point the higher the status

Medieval/Middle AgesAfter 1200WomenBegan to use tight lacing on women's to create a form fitting shapegirdled at the hipscreated a long - waisted appearanceLong, trailing gownsHennin, worn 1300- 1400,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire.

Late Medieval Ages 1400-1500Fashion in this era was greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens.The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era.Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.

Think Movies:BecketBraveHeartA Knights TaleThe Hunchback of Notre DameRobin Hood

Medieval/Middle Ages

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/medievalmovies.htmlRenaissance: 1400-1500 Shapes becoming rounderAccentuate PhysiqueDrawers & Padding for menCodpiece for men a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin.Men wore blouses with exposed chestPregnancy Pillows for Womenthe maternal look was fashionable.Looser, sexier clothingTHINK: Romeo & Juliet

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Renaissance: 1400-1500

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan EraTighter, stiff, more rigid clothingHeavy and Luxurious FabricsSlashing - cut in the outer surfaces of garments doublets, sleeves and gownsexposed the contrasting color of the linings beneathRuff worn by both men & women large stiff collar worn at this time.

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan EraFarthingale for Women stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirtsCorsetV-WaistAccessoriesPearls, heeled shoesTights for menTHINK: Shakespeare in Love

Elizabethan Era 1500-1600

Think Movies:HamletElizabethEver AfterShakespeare in LoveRomeo & JulietThe Agony & the Ecstasy

Renaissance

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/renaissancemovies.htmlCavalier 1620-1660France Begins to influence FashionFashion which said I dont have to work for a living.Sensual & Soft look, less stiffnessWaistlines began to riseRuffs were replaced by lace or linen collarsSleeves began to become fullerMen began wearing breeches instead of hoseAccessoriesTurned down bootsTall broad hatsRibbons & bows

Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleevesSleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers Think Three Musketeers

Restoration 1660 - 1715Womens FashionFull, loose sleeves that end at elbowTightly corsetedMantua Hung from the shoulders to the floorworn for 'undress' wearThe overskirt was looped back and held by ribbon bows. Train length determined by social statusHair worn in tight curlsGot bigger and higher as the period went on

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htmRestoration 1660 - 1715Mens FashionBreeches became very baggyCoat and Waist coatRuffled long sleeved shirtCravats worn over the neckPeriwigWig worn by men throughout the period

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htmRestoration 1660 - 1715

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Cavalier/Restoration Think Movies:Girl with the Pearl EarringPirates of the CarribeanThe Man in the Iron MaskThe Three MuskateersThe Scarlet Letter

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/baroquemovies.htmlHistorical Costume and the Movies AssignmentDirections:Go to email and open the document I sent you.Find 12 pictures from 12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods.Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box. Save your document, then email it to me when you are complete.You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish.

Movie Title: 300Time Period: Greek B.C.Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in placeHistorically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place.Website: http://photos.lucywho.com/queen-gorgo-photo-gallery-c16025998.html

Georgian 1700-1775Mens FashionFlat Front Breechesbreeches with a buttoned front flap.The Justaucorps for men was the forerunner of todays suit coat. The Spencer was a short jacket without tails.QueueA long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III - 1760-1820 - Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from :http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-george-iii-mens-clothes.htm

Georgian 1700-1775Womens FashionPanniersbaskets made of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirtThe hoop was first funnel-shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm Georgian 1700-1775Womens FashionWatteau Gown a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt. The loose folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt. The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt. The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775

Womens FashionPompadourlarge hair-do associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it.Shepherdess HatA hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country.Mob CapLarge cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian Think Movies:A Tale of Two CitiesMarie AntoinetteThe DuchessThe Legend of Sleepy HollowThe PatriotThe Last of the Mohicans

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/georgianmovies.html

THINK MOVIE: Marie AntoinetteEmpire 1790-1815Men's FashionBreeches became longer and more tightly fittedTrousers or Pantaloons for the streetCoats were cutaway with long tails and standing collarsWaist coats were high waisted and squared off at the bottomHair wax and mutton chops were the new hair fadWellington style boot

Empire 1790-1815Women's FashionThe triumph of the undressed lookFollowed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouetteEmpire WaistHigh waisted, natural lookNo corsetsAccessoriesGlovesVinaigrette: small drawstring handbag

EmpireThink Movies:Becoming JaneEmmaPride & PrejudiceThe Count of Monte CristoThe Brothers Grimm

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/regencymovies.htmlTHINK MOVIE: Emma

Romantic Era 1815-1840Men's FashionPeg-Top TrousersTrousers that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles. The name peg-top originally applied to a boys cone-shaped spinning top.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Men's FashionSack CoatA loose-fitting coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce.Great CoatAn overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat.Frock CoatA double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back.

Romantic Era 1815-1840

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840Men's Fashion AccessoriesAscotA scarf tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin.BowlerA stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htmRomantic Era 1815-1840Women's FashionBeret Sleeves - cut from a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole

Gigot SleevesA full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htmRomantic Era 1815-1840Women's FashionWider Skirt Hemlines: Gored into panels from 1820-1828 to added width at hemline, but keep tight waistDecoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835Women's FashionPelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders and added modesty.The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion.

Romantic Era 1815-1840Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835Romantic Era 1815-1840Women's FashionHats: Large romantic wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bowscomplemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830sBonnets were virtually interchangeable with hatsCoal scuttle bonnet styles with deep crowns accommodated the high Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835Victorian Era Crinoline1837 - 1860 Mens FashionPrince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style. String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down. Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htmVictorian Era Crinoline1837 - 1860 Mens FashionDundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor.Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men.Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htmVictorian Era CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837 - 1860Return to the look of demure prim gentilityBig hats leave and bonnets returnThe Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line.Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistlinePantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837-1860Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. .Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve. Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837-1860Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped.Held up by 6 layers of petticoatsSupported by stiffer fabrics with Crin woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiffCrinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Four factors that begin to influence fashionThe invention of the sewing machineFashion becomes couture design ledSynthetic dyes allow for intense colorsDome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back.

Victorian 1865-1890

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htmVictorian 1865-1890Men's FashionBlazerA lightweight sport jacket.Norfolk JacketA jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions. InvernessA full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

Men's FashionKnickerbockersFull, knee-length breeches gathered in at the kneeFour-in-hand TieA type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot. Straw BoaterA man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s

Victorian 1865-1890

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

Victorian - BustleWomens FashionBustleWhalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt.BloomersLoose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee. BasqueA short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet)

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htmVictorian - BustleWomens FashionThe Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette 1867-1875Apron style tablier top layer half skirtcontrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htmWomens FashionFrom 1870, ball gowns always had a train.by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled trainVictorian - Bustle

Womens FashionVictorian Silhouette 1878-1901Princess Line and the Cuirasse Bodicesoft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one.Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.Victorian - Bustle

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htmVictorian - BustleWomens FashionThe New Hard Bustle of 1883jutting out shelf like style of bustlelarger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horseMinimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustlesSlimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htmVictorian (both eras)Think Movies:Far and AwayThe Phantom of the OperaGangs of New YorkGone With the WindGloryCold MountainThe Mask of ZorroSherlock Holmes

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/victorianmovies.html

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Mens FashionChesterfieldA fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collarKickersFull breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htmMens HatsPanama HatA hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America.For-and-Aft CapA cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape.DerbyA stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.HombergA carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbonEdwardian Era 1890 -1914

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htmEdwardian Era 1890 -1914Womens Fashion 1890-1910Tailor MadeMass-produced, ready-to-wear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality. Leg-o-MuttonA sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.ShirtwaistA womans top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Womens Fashion 1890-1910Gibson GirlMore often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htmEdwardian Era 1890 -1914Womens Fashion 1900 -1907The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur. Evening wearexceptionally low sweetheart, square and round dcollet necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle poque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htmEdwardian Era 1890 -1914Womens AccessoriesGainsborough Hat velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers.FeathersGlovesParasolsBags

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle poque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Think Movies:Anne of Green GablesTitanicFinding NeverlandMy Fair LadyLegends of the Fall

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/edwardianmovies.html