Guide for Volunteers · Amsterdam via Nairobi andis partnered with KLM ( ) who provide flights to...

July 2011

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Getting there, staying there -

A Guide for Volunteers

Project African Wilderness 2 Guide for Volunteers

Contents 1 Getting to Mwabvi ........................................................................................................................................................ 3

1.1 Getting to Malawi ................................................................................................................................................. 3

1.1.1 Flying to Blantyre ........................................................................................................................................ 3

1.1.2 Flying to Lilongwe ....................................................................................................................................... 3

1.1.3 Baggage and travel agents ........................................................................................................................... 3

1.1.4 Passport and visas ........................................................................................................................................ 3

1.2 Staying in Lilongwe .............................................................................................................................................. 4

1.3 Lilongwe to Blantyre ............................................................................................................................................ 4

1.4 Staying in Blantyre ................................................................................................................................................ 4

1.5 Getting to Mwabvi ............................................................................................................................................... 5

1.6 Getting home ........................................................................................................................................................ 5

2 Cultural Information ..................................................................................................................................................... 5

2.1 Dress ....................................................................................................................................................................... 5

2.2 Sex ........................................................................................................................................................................... 6

2.3 Money ..................................................................................................................................................................... 6

2.4 Language ................................................................................................................................................................ 6

2.5 Electricity ............................................................................................................................................................... 7

2.6 Telephone .............................................................................................................................................................. 7

2.7 Weather .................................................................................................................................................................. 7

2.8 Health ..................................................................................................................................................................... 8

2.8.1 Immunisations ............................................................................................................................................. 8

2.8.2 Malaria ........................................................................................................................................................... 8

2.8.3 Schistosomiasis (bilharzia) .......................................................................................................................... 8

2.8.4 Venomous creatures .................................................................................................................................... 9

2.8.5 Wounds ......................................................................................................................................................... 9

2.8.6 Sunburn ......................................................................................................................................................... 9

2.8.7 Needle-stick injury or blood splash .......................................................................................................... 9

2.8.8 If you are ill – travel and health insurance ............................................................................................... 9

2.8.9 Helping others .............................................................................................................................................. 9

2.9 Sponsorships ....................................................................................................................................................... 10

3 Travelling ...................................................................................................................................................................... 10

3.1 Places to see ......................................................................................................................................................... 10

3.2 Public transport ................................................................................................................................................... 10

4 Chipembere Camp ....................................................................................................................................................... 11

5 What to take ................................................................................................................................................................. 11

5.1 General advice ..................................................................................................................................................... 11

5.1.1 Batteries ....................................................................................................................................................... 11

5.1.2 Computers .................................................................................................................................................. 12

5.1.3 Clothes ........................................................................................................................................................ 12

5.2 Packing checklist ................................................................................................................................................. 12

5.2.1 Paperwork ................................................................................................................................................... 12

5.2.2 General items ............................................................................................................................................. 13

5.2.3 Toiletry & Pharmaceuticals ...................................................................................................................... 13

5.2.4 Clothes ........................................................................................................................................................ 14

5.2.5 Things to buy when you arrive ................................................................................................................ 14

5.2.6 What the careful traveller always has in the day sack ........................................................................... 14

6 Useful contacts and websites ..................................................................................................................................... 15

7 Reading list.................................................................................................................................................................... 15

8 Some useful phrases in Chichewa ............................................................................................................................. 15

9 Map of Lilongwe .......................................................................................................................................................... 17

10 Map of Blantyre ........................................................................................................................................................... 18


1 Getting to Mwabvi

1.1 Getting to Malawi Flight availability, prices and luggage allowances change almost by the day, so rule number one is – shop around.

1.1.1 Flying to Blantyre

We will collect you from Blantyre so this is the best airport to aim for. In the past the cheapest flights from the UK took you to Lilongwe airport, but flying to Blantyre is much more convenient for Mwabvi and reasonably priced flights from London to Blantyre are now available, either via Johannesburg with South African Airways (www.flysaa.com), or by catching an onward flight from Lilongwe with Air Malawi (http://www.airmalawi.com/).

Once you have reached Blantyre there is no need to battle with the Malawian public transport system – we will pick you up at the airport in a 4WD and transport you to Mwabvi in comfort (watch out for the breathtaking views as you leave Blantyre and drop down into the Shire valley. If it’s a clear day it’s well worth a brief stop at the viewpoint).

1.1.2 Flying to Lilongwe

If you do decide to fly to Lilongwe (it can be much cheaper), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenyaairways.com) and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) will all get you there. Kenya Airways flies from Amsterdam via Nairobi andis partnered with KLM (www.klm.com) who provide flights to Amsterdam from both London and Manchester.

Ethiopian fly from London via Addis Ababa, and SAA via Johannesburg. Lilongwe airport is about 20 km north of the town. There is no bus from the airport to the centre of Lilongwe, so you have to take a taxi, which will cost you about USD 35 (MK 5000). Try making friends on the plane - you might find someone who wants to share the cost. Make sure you agree the fare with the taxi driver first.

1.1.3 Baggage and travel agents

KLM/Kenya are generally known to provide the most generous baggage allowance, but these change continually, so it is worth checking before you book.

To book your ticket you can choose from a huge number of travel agents, just search the web. Start with a search site like www.kayak.co.uk. Dial-a-flight (www.dialaflight.com) have been good in the past, as have www.skylord.co.uk and www.southalltravel.co.uk. Again, shop around.

1.1.4 Passport and visas

NOTE: The following applies to UK citizens. Other nationalities should make their own enquiries before travelling:

Make sure that your passport is valid until at least six months after your intended departure from Malawi. Don’t try to get a visa before you travel - you will get a free one month tourist visa when you arrive in Malawi, and when you get to Mwabvi you should check with Barry who will advise you on how and when to extend it, depending on what you will be doing and how long you are staying. There is an immigration office in Bangula who can provide any additional information such as current prices. They may also be able to issue visas, or if not it’s a visit to the immigration office in Blantyre.


1.2 Staying in Lilongwe If you have decided to fly to Lilongwe rather than Blantyre you may want to spend a night in Lilongwe to recover from your journey. The following were available at May 2011.

There are plenty of places to stay in Lilongwe, depending on your budget, and if you book in advance they will be happy to arrange a taxi to pick you up from the airport:

• Mabuya Camp (formerly Kiboko Camp) (www.mabuyacamp.com) Run by Tom and Janey, Mabuya is budget back-packers’ lodge with food, a bar and a good atmosphere. They offer chalets, A-frames, dorms, fixed tents or your own camping pitch. Mabuya is 15 minute walk from the town centre.

• Korea Garden Lodge (http://www.kglodge.net). KGL offers rooms from bronze (very basic) all the way up to VIP. They have a swimming pool with a pool-side bar and restaurant, and are 5 minutes walk from the town centre.

• Kiboko Town Hotel (http://www.kiboko-safaris.com/framehotel.html) is a little more up-market and a little pricier, but if you want to relax in comfort after your flight it is very comfortable and has the two advantages of being right in the centre of the Old Town and being above Don Brioni’s Bistro, one of the best eating places in Lilongwe.

• Mufasa Lodge (http://mufasamalawi.com/backpacker-lodges-accommodation/lilongwe/) offers a variety of accommodation with a full range of prices, and is also right in the Old Town centre.

1.3 Lilongwe to Blantyre Blantyre is known as the commercial capital of Lilongwe, and lies around 400km south of Lilongwe. The best

way to get there is by bus or coach. Axa (http://www.agmamalawi.com/axa.html) run several services to Blantyre, including an Executive Coach Service with on-board toilet and a film. The times are published on the web site, you can phone to book from the UK and they do have an email address for confirmation, although you shouldn’t expect a quick reply. They are pretty good at setting off and arriving on time but do check with the people at the bus station, so make sure you get to the bus station in good time and where possible take a bus that is due to arrive at your destination well before dark. The Axa bus terminal is in the old town, not far from Shoprite, and you can book tickets in advance at the booking office.

You could travel all the way to Blantyre on a matola (minibus). Matolas run all day with no fixed timetable, but they are slower, a good deal less comfortable, and actually cost more than the standard bus services. Matolas leave from the main bus station east of the river behind the mosque off Kamuze Procession Road, see map in section 9. There is more information about matolas in the Travelling section.

1.4 Staying in Blantyre Transport is provided from Blantyre to Mwabvi by PAW for all newly arriving volunteers. However if you should need to spend the night there are all sorts of places to stay, up to Ryall’s Hotel at $300 a night. There are several comfortable places, our favourite is Doogle’s which had a make over for 2011 and has the great advantage of being literally two minutes walk from the bus station. They don’t have a web


site, but you can book through http://www.explore-malawi.com

Kabula Lodge (http://www.kabulalodge.co.mw/), a little further out on the Mchiru Road (past Mount Soche), is a family-run guesthouse with a range of accommodation and the use of the kitchen.

The Grace Bandawe Hostel (http://www.blantyresynod.org/grace.htm) is also close to the bus station and is very quiet. Good room and dormitory accommodation and meals, but no bar as it is a religious institution.

1.5 Getting to Mwabvi Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve is located in the southern most tip of Malawi in Nsanje District. It is another 135 km. South of Blantyre along the M1 road, near the town of Bangula.

Transport from Blantyre to Mwabvi is provided for PAW volunteers and we will meet you in Blantyre in one of the project vehicles. However if you ever need to get from Blantyre to Mwabvi under your own steam, take a matola. The matolas will start running from the Blantyre bus station as soon as it’s light – about 6:00, and it’s a good idea to set off as early as possible as demand, and therefore frequency, slows down during the day. Find one that is going to Nsanje. Any of the drivers or conductors will help you; just tell them you are going to Bangula.

You may well find that the matola stops in Nchalo. Don’t worry, this is fairly normal. You will be transferred to another vehicle, either a minibus or a flatbed truck, and you won’t have to pay again. Get someone to tell you when you get to Bangula – you should by now have discovered that almost all Malawians are very friendly and happy to help.

Bangula to Chipembere Camp is about 15 km, and at this point you are strongly advised to phone Chipembere to be collected. However, if you are really intrepid, go down to the far end of the town, opposite PTC, where you should find a collection of guys with bicycles. These are bicycle taxis, and a good one should have a padded rear seat and passenger footrests on the back axle. They will be only too happy to take you to Chipembere Camp for a few hundred kwacha. If you have a large rucksack hire two bicycles, one to take you and one to take the rucksack – and pay them generously, it’s a very tough pedal up to Chip camp with two up.

1.6 Getting home Just one word of warning here – travellers used to be charged airport tax when they left the country. This was normally USD 30/£20 for the UK, but varied for other destinations. As far as we know this charge now gets included in the price of the flight ticket, at least for travellers to the UK. However, you should check when you buy your ticket, and if you are in any doubt you should make sure that you have at least USD 30/£20 cash with you when you fly home.

2 Cultural Information Please remember that Malawian culture is very different from ours. The pace of life is much slower, and attitudes are often very different. Be patient. Try not to assume that our way is always best. Talk to the local people and take time to find out what they think. You’ll discover that you can learn as much from them as they can from you.

2.1 Dress While dress codes in the big cities are becoming very westernised, the attitudes in rural areas are still very traditional. Malawi is still a male dominated society, and dress codes apply especially to women. If you dress inappropriately you will lose the respect of the local people, who will view you, at best, as a tourist and at worst, in the case of young women, as a prostitute, and will treat you accordingly. Women in Malawi are expected to cover their midriffs (an area which is considered to be only for ones husband to see) and their upper legs. Although Malawians are slowly getting used to the idea that western women wear jeans, you will never see a rural Malawian above primary school age wearing trousers, and, while you can get away with more casual dress during leisure hours, in cities or at tourist resorts, if you are working with local Malawians, in a school, orphanage or


medical facility for example, you should respect local customs – women should wear tops that cover their tums and skirts below the knee and men should wear long trousers.

You should are also advised to cover up after dusk – not for cultural reasons but because of the mosquitoes.

2.2 Sex It has to be mentioned – please bear in mind that AIDS is rife in Africa. ‘nuff said.

2.3 Money The Malawi currency is the Kwacha (the word actually means “dawn” in the Nyanja and Bemba languages). One Kwacha is subdivided in 100 tambala (“rooster” in Nyanja). You cannot buy Kwacha outside Malawi, so you will need to change money on your arrival. Obviously exchange rates vary all the time and you need to check exchange rates yourself before you travel, but there are roughly 250 Malawi Kwacha (MK) to the pound and MK 160 to the US dollar. The largest denomination bank note is MK 500 (a little over £2) so you will find that you are carrying a lot of notes around (a money belt or concealed pouch is a good idea).

Dollars, and increasingly UK pounds and Euros, are acceptable currencies in larger towns and cities, and for some things, particularly safaris, airport tax (as already mentioned) and visas on entry to neighbouring countries, payment must be made in dollars. Dollars are also very difficult and expensive to buy in Malawi, so do bring plenty. Do NOT however bring $100 notes because there are so many forged ones in circulation that no one in Africa will accept them. Travellers’ cheques are horrendously difficult to change, only in a major city bank after a long wait and with a poor exchange rate. We do not recommend them.

ATMs do exist in the cities (the nearest one to Mwabvi is in Nchalo). Visa machines are more common than Mastercard, and there is a limit on the amount that can be withdrawn in one transaction of MK 20,000 (due to the physical limitations of the ATM itself) and a daily limit of MK 40,000. It’s worth while shopping around at home for an account that has low charges on foreign withdrawals, and remember that the card company may charge as well as the bank. Also, UK banks have been known to make it extremely difficult to use their cash cards in foreign ATMs. Check and double-check with your bank before you leave. Ask them how you should contact them in the event that it doesn’t work, and whether they will be prepared to ring you in Malawi to sort our problems, or whether they are prepared to accept instructions from a third party (e.g. a family member) in the UK.

Credit cards are accepted by tourist businesses such as safari companies and the large hotels, and by banks, but otherwise in very few places and not at all outside big cities. They usually incur stiff charges and lousy exchange rates. It’s worth having one for emergencies, but don’t expect to use it much. As with cash cards, shop around for low charges on foreign transactions. As with the cash card, make sure you inform the company before you go, as they may well block foreign transactions if they don’t know you’re abroad, and when you come back so they can start blocking them again.

All in all, if you’re only going for a short period, the best way is to take enough cash to see you through, and somewhere safe to keep it.

2.4 Language Other than Afrikaans and English, there are about thirteen languages spoken in Malawi. The national language is Chichewa (also known as Chinyanja or Nyanja), although there are many Malawians who do not speak Chichewa. (Note that the prefix chi- means language, so that Chichewa is the language of the Chewa people.)

While most of the southern half of Malawi east of the lake is Chewa, the southernmost tip of the country is Sena, with Mwabvi lying roughly on the border between the two. Thus, while the predominant language of this area is Chichewa, Chisena is also spoken.

As you can imagine there are not many books published on the Chichewa language, however there are a few:

• “Chichewa Guide for Tourists”: A pocket guide available from www.africabookcentre.com and also in quite a few tourist bookshops in Malawi.


• “Tiyeni!: Chichewa Language Course for Newcomers to Malawi” by Celia Swann and Max Sato: this includes an audio CD and is actually available on Amazon

• “Learning Chichewa. Books 1-3” These are produced by the Peace Corps. Books 1 and 2 are for the student and Book 3 is a teacher’s guide. They can be downloaded as PDF files as follows: Book 1: http://www.eric.ed.gov/PDFS/ED206157.pdf Book 2: http://www.eric.ed.gov/PDFS/ED206158.pdf Book 3: http://www.eric.ed.gov/PDFS/ED206159.pdf

Some useful phrases in Chichewa are included in Section 8

2.5 Electricity The electricity in Malawi is 240 volts 50Hz, and the sockets take UK-style three-pin plugs (although you will find many appliances with two-pin plugs, the general attitude being that it will go in if you push hard enough!) The electricity supply in Malawi is entirely hydroelectric, and because of increased demand and ever more unpredictable weather, is becoming increasingly erratic. It is therefore a good idea to take a mains surge protector with you, especially if you are using sensitive equipment such as a laptop, and be prepared for power cuts on a fairly regular basis.

Chipembere camp itself does not have mains power, but uses solar panels and a diesel generator; however we are converting to major solar panels for power for mid/late 2011. Njati Lodge will have solar power at the same time but there is currently no power at all within the reserve.

If you plan to visit other countries, such as Mozambique, you should check out their supply and bring appropriate adaptors.

2.6 Telephone Although Malawi does have a telephone system, the requirements of a landline infrastructure meant that it never really worked well for the ordinary person in the street. Mobile phone technology, however, has revolutionised communications, and although it is by no means totally reliable, it is well supported and most places now have a signal. The mobile signal at Chipembere camp is not good, BUT we have a mains based landline and wifi which gives access to skype. There is currently no widespread signal access inside the reserve.

There are two main mobile suppliers, Zain and TNM – Zain seems to be the one to choose. Phones are readily available for about the same price as in the UK, pay-as-you-go SIMs are sold in every supermarket and credit is available on every street corner. If you take a phone with you make sure it is unlocked so you can put a Malawi SIM into it.

Apart from Skype at Chipembere, phoning home from Malawi is expensive, but texts are a cost-effective way of keeping in touch with your loved ones. If your friends and family want to contact you there is any number of internet-based systems offering cheap international calls from the UK and other western countries. http://www.cheapestinternationalcalls.com/ gives a list of services, although their price list is not always up to date, so check the individual sites.

2.7 Weather May to July are the coolest months to go but there is something special about every month.

The seasons are predominately summer from November to April and winter from May to October. Summer in the Southern part of Malawi can be very hot and humid with most of the year's rain falling during this period. Temperatures can reach 35°C - 50°C during the day, falling to around 26°C - 30°C in the evenings. The winters are dry with occasional showers, and still warm by UK standards - although temperatures can fall to 15°C at night, the days are usually in the high 20s. Given the low altitude (80-200m), the humidity levels can become rather high.


2.8 Health

2.8.1 Immunisations

Before you travel, make sure that you have had all the necessary inoculations. For a small fee MASTA (http://www.masta-travel-health.com/) provide an up-to-date health brief, or consult your GP or travel clinic.

The following list is for guidance only:

• Hepatitis A

• Typhoid

• Meningococcal meningitis A and C

• Hepatitis B

• Tetanus

• Polio

• Yellow fever: Malawi is not a yellow fever country, but you may have problems entering other African countries from Malawi, or vice versa, if you do not have a Yellow Fever immunisation certificate. You cannot get the inoculation in Malawi, so even though it is not a requirement for Malawi it is well worth getting it anyway.

• Diptheria

• Rabies: Rabies is widespread in Malawi and any bite should be considered as potentially infected. Clean the wound thoroughly by holding under plenty of running water for at least 15 minutes, dry, apply tincture of iodine or TCP, and then cover with a plaster. Even if you are already immunised against rabies you will still need further doses and should seek medical attention urgently. If you have not been immunised you may need immunoglobulin, which is extremely difficult to get in Malawi, and extremely expensive (I’ve seen USD1,000 per dose quoted) even if you can get it.

2.8.2 Malaria

You will also need Malaria prophylaxis. The drugs usually advised for this area are either Malarone, Lariam, or doxycycline, but you should check with MASTA, your GP or a travel clinic. Malarone is probably the best, and has the least known side effects but is taken once a day and works out very expensive if you are staying for a long period. Lariam is about the same price per tablet but is only taken once a week. Lariam is known to have side effects for some people – if you have not taken it before it’s a good idea to buy a few tablets (three doses should be sufficient) and take them well before you travel, so that if you do suffer side-effects you have time to come up with a plan B.

REMEMBER: these drugs do not stop you getting Malaria, they simply boost your defences to give you time to get to a hospital and get treatment.

If you're planning to do some travelling during your trip, especially if you'll be travelling by yourself, you should also considering buying an artemisinin-based Malaria cure such as Coartem when you get out there and keeping it with you. Also known as qing hao su, this chinese herb is said to be extremely effective as a cure (NOT a prophylaxis - the half-life in the body is too short). Go to a reputable pharmacist in a big city and they will advise you. (As with all drugs you buy in Africa, check the packet and make sure it is manufactured in South Africa, India or a first-world country).

2.8.3 Schistosomiasis (bilharzia)

You would be missing out if you didn’t take the opportunity to visit Lake Malawi at some point during your trip, and when you do you’ll want to swim. There is plenty of information about this disease on the web, but briefly, it is caused by a parasite that lives in the water especially where there is a lot of vegetation and in the vicinity of human habitation. Its danger is that it can cause significant damage if not treated, and is virtually symptom-free in the early stages. The good news is that it is extremely easy to treat. A single dose of praziquantel taken several weeks after exposure will kill the parasite and the drug is virtually free of side effects. In view of the safety and efficacy of the drug, and the fact that by the time the symptoms show the disease is already well progressed,


many people recommend taking the praziquantel following any exposure to the lake water, irrespective of whether symptoms have been experienced. It can be bought from any pharmacist (again, use only qualified pharmacists, and check the origin of the drug). The dosage is dependant on body weight, so the pharmacist will weigh you before prescribing the drug, and will also advise you on when and how it should be taken.

2.8.4 Venomous creatures

There are snakes, spiders, scorpions and other venomous creatures in Africa, and although the risk of getting bitten or stung is fairly small (most of them are more scared of you than you are of them) you should take basic precautions. Wear solid shoes when walking in the bush. Don’t put your hands into holes in rocks or trees, or turn stones or logs over, without checking what’s inside or underneath. Keep outside doors closed. Don’t leave food lying around (food attracts mice and mice attract snakes).

2.8.5 Wounds

Wounds take a lot longer to heal in tropical conditions, especially in the wet season, and are more prone to infection. Take plenty of plasters, which can be difficult to find, and an iodine-based antiseptic such as Betadine. Clean even small cuts and grazes immediately with clean water or antiseptic gel or wet-wipes, and keep them covered, especially during the day when they will attract flies.

2.8.6 Sunburn

Take plenty of sun-tan cream - black people don't get sun tanned so it's virtually impossible to buy out there. Also, when you leave give any you have left to Adele or anyone else who will make it available to albinos, who need it desperately.

2.8.7 Needle-stick injury or blood splash

In the extremely unlikely event of an incident that puts you at high risk of HIV infection, such as a needle-stick injury with a used needle or a blood splash in the eye or mouth, you should immediately tell Adele or Barry if at Mwabvi, or seek medical help from the hospital in Blantyre, who will provide a Post-Exposure Prophlyaxis (PEP) pack. These usually last 3-7 days. The drugs must be taken EXACTLY as prescribed and at EXACTLY the same hour each day.

They should be started as soon as possible after an injury, but bear in mind that if the injury occurs

at 3pm and you take your first dose at this time, then your subsequent doses may need to be taken at 3am! Read the instructions very carefully. Further anti-retrovirals are available free at hospitals. You will need blood tests repeated several times over the 28 days that you must take the drugs, plus follow-up on return to your home country.

2.8.8 If you are ill – travel and health insurance

Adele has a plentiful supply of first aid materials at Chipembere camp. There is also a medical clinic in Bangula, and if things do get serious, a private hospital two hours away in Blantyre. There are adequate medical facilities, but remember that they are private. Drugs are available and relatively cheap, but if you do have to be admitted or need more serious treatment the costs will mount up, so the main thing is to make sure you are properly insured before you travel. Check that your insurance covers you for the full period of your stay, for any and all activities you are likely to undertake, and that it provides good repatriation cover - if you are seriously ill the cost of transporting you back to your home country can easily run into tens of thousands of pounds (99.99% of people don’t need to use the service but if you do, you do!

2.8.9 Helping others

It’s the A word again – if you need to help someone who is sick or injured remember that AIDS is all around you. Carry a pair of rubber gloves in your day sack, and do NOT touch someone who is bleeding without putting them on.


2.9 Sponsorships You may well be approached by schoolchildren who will ask you to help them pay for their education. We strongly advise you not to enter into a direct private sponsorship arrangement with a child or family, no matter how close a bond of friendship has developed. It is a complex matter to ascertain the right amount of money (there are many additional costs over and above the school fees), to get the money over to Malawi and to ensure that the money gets spent on what it is supposed to be spent on. There are also on going administrative matters which must be kept up after you have left the country.

If you do feel that a particular child deserves special help, please ask Barry or Adele or another member of PAW for advice.

3 Travelling

3.1 Places to see If you’re going to be in Malawi for a reasonable period you might consider making the most of the trip and seeing some more of this beautiful country. This is not the place for a detailed travel guide, but there are some places that you might consider:

• The Lake. Malawi’s jewel, known as the “Lake Of Stars”, and the “Calendar Lake” (it’s 365 miles long and 52 miles wide), it’s roughly the length of England and very beautiful. You can’t visit Malawi and not see the lake. Famous for its cichlids, it is so deep and so old that it contains fish that have evolved in the lake and don’t exist anywhere else in the world. Nkhata Bay allegedly offers the cheapest PADI Scuba diving in the world.

• While we’re on the subject, if you’re there in October how about a long weekend at the Lake Of Stars music festival, Malawi’s answer to Glastonbury!;

• Lengwe National Park or Majete Wildlife Reserve. Just “up the road” from Mwabvi and well worth a weekend;

• Mount Mulanji, a terrific hike for the keen fell walker (guides must be hired)

• Liwonde National Park. Right on the river Shire, a paradise for riverine wildlife and an absolute must for anyone who loves birds.

3.2 Public transport There is no railway system in Malawi, although there used to be one, and some of the track still exists - a large portion of Bangula is built on top of the southern branch. Public transport in Malawi therefore consists of buses or coaches for the longer intercity journeys and matolas for shorter trips or routes off the main intercity roads.

Malawi has a number of bus and coach companies, including Axa and National, that provide good, reasonably priced (incredibly cheap by UK standards) transport between the major cities.

For shorter journeys there are the matolas. These are either minibuses or flat-bed trucks. In a large town or city they terminate at the bus depot, outside town there are designated bus stops, or you can just wave. They have no fixed timetable, but simply wait until they are full to bursting with people plus whatever chickens, fish, children or other baggage they may be taking. The final destination is normally displayed on a piece of cardboard in the front window, but if you are not sure which one to take just ask the driver or the conductor – indeed if you loiter around the bus station you will be asked fairly often where you are headed.

Each matola has a driver and, for want of a better word, a conductor who collects the fares and slams the door when the last person has been squeezed in. The prices are fixed so don’t haggle, just pay what the conductor asks – Malawians are relatively honest and won’t ask you for more than what the guy next to you is paying just because you’re a tourist. An empty matola means you can grab one of the front seats next to the driver - you’ll have to wait a good while for it to fill up, but you’ll get a much more comfortable ride.


4 Chipembere Camp If you have not been to Africa before you will find life is very different from what you are used to, and you may consider it to be relatively primitive. Nevertheless, compared with many places in Africa, the facilities at Chipembere camp are extremely good, and improving all the time, so this description may be out of date already!

Accommodation for volunteers is either in the two-bedroom guest house or in the dormitory rooms. If you are self-catering all cutlery, crockery, pots and pans are supplied and there are cooking and refrigeration facilities which run on gas and so are not subject to power generation. Bed linen is provided and all the beds are fitted with mosquito nets, which should be well tucked in under the mattress all around at night. Mosquitos generally come out at dawn and dusk, but it’s not a bad idea to leave the mosquito net down all the time – not only does it save you having to remember to put it down before the sun goes down at six, but it also discourages any other critters that might fancy creeping between the sheets for a nap. It’s a good idea to wear long trousers and long sleeves after dusk too, and put insect repellent on exposed skin.

Electricity is supplied by solar panels and by a diesel generator, and while it may not be available 24 hours a day, when it is on there is lighting in all the buildings and outside.

Laundry is done by one of the local ladies. You should supply the washing powder and pay her a few hundred Kwatcha – Adele will advise exactly how much.

Bangula provides a PTC (small supermarket) as well as several other shops and a colourful market where you can buy basic foodstuffs and toiletries. Although it’s 15Km away Barry and Adele take a vehicle in regularly, and they also drive up to Blantyre at least once a fortnight, so you will have no problem shopping for groceries.

The water at Chipembere, Migudu campsite and Njati Lodge is pumped from boreholes and is perfectly safe to drink.

A satellite dish provides probably the fastest and most reliable internet link in the whole of Malawi, although this is of course only available when there is power. We have a WiFi router which gives wireless access all over the camp. If you do not have a computer Barry has internet access including Skype and will be happy to come to an arrangement.

While mobile coverage at the camp is actually quite poor, there is a satellite phone in the office which is always manned, so you can always get in contact with your loved ones, and they with you. The number is +265 (0)1946173

Toilet and shower facilities are available with running water. Hot water is provided in the evenings when a member of staff lights the wood-burning water heater, and this is usually still warm enough for a shower in the morning.

There is a postal system in Malawi, and PAW/MWCT does have a postal address (see section 6), however it is neither fast nor reliable (parcels have been known to languish in local post offices for literally years). If you need something sending out to you, contact PAW in the UK or MWCT Italia to see if we can help.

5 What to take

5.1 General advice

5.1.1 Batteries

Take plenty of batteries. The ones in Malawi are expensive and very poor quality. If you use a lot consider taking rechargeables (the Uniross Globe Trotter is an excellent little charger). (NB. I noticed that my rechargeables lost their charge very quickly even when not in use, especially in the rainy season, which makes me wonder if it is caused by heat/humidity. You can now get low self-discharge NiMH batteries, which are more expensive but may be better).

You can get solar chargers for your rechargeable batteries. They do work but they can be expensive, bulky and slow. Before buying check the details to make sure they have sufficient capacity to charge your batteries


5.1.2 Computers

Don’t be afraid to take a lap-top or net-book, but do take precautions against loss, against sand and dust/heat and also against computer viruses, which, like the human kind, are everywhere in Africa. You must assume that any computer other than (hopefully) your own is infected with viruses, and act accordingly. Be particularly careful with USB drives, which are the most common way that viruses are transmitted:

• If you have sensitive information on your computer, make sure it's encrypted in some way just in case the computer gets lost or stolen. Likewise, if you think you may put confidential information on your USB drives, which are even easier to lose, encrypt it. Better still buy memory sticks with built-in encryption. These are really good - the encryption is already on the stick and is quite transparent. You need the accompanying software to set up the password but after that you can use them on any computer as long as you know the password;

• Make sure your virus checker is up to date before you go. Although Internet access at Chipembere is better than most, it is still a lot slower than in the UK, and downloading updates may take a long time;

• Try not to put your stick in other people's computers or other people's sticks in yours;

• Don't put executable files on your sticks. As well as .EXE files this includes batch files (.BAT, .CMD), all Microsoft Office documents (.DOC etc.) as well as several other types. Try to ensure that sticks you put into your PC don't have executables on them, and under no circumstances run or open an executable file from someone else's stick. If you stick to photographs (.JPG, etc.) you should be OK. If you need to look at Office files, such as Word documents, turn off macro execution first;

• Get sticks with a write-protect switch. That way you can allow someone to read your stick safely;

• Other than via executables, the most common way to transfer a virus via a stick is using Autorun.inf. Windows uses this to perform a specified action whenever the stick (or CD, or DVD) is put into the computer. You would think that Microsoft would have realised the danger of such a system, but on the contrary they've made it really quite difficult to turn it off. Theoretically it is disabled by default, but in fact it's quite easy for viruses to turn it on again. There are several ways you can reduce the risk: o if you are fairly technically competent, make sure autorun behaviour is indeed disabled – there are some

instructions at http://support.microsoft.com/kb/967715; o you can prevent the autorun.unf from being run by holding down shift when inserting the stick; o better still get an autorun blocker program. Panda USB Vaccine (http://download.cnet.com/Panda-

USB-Vaccine/3000-2239_4-10909938.html) works very well. This will allow you not only to "vaccinate" your computer by blocking all autorun behaviour, but also to "vaccinate" each of your USB sticks, preventing any infected computer from writing the autorun files onto them.

5.1.3 Clothes

Don't assume that because you are going to a tropical country you will never get cold. At night, especially high up, it gets very cold. Take at least one warm long-sleeved shirt, and a fleece or jumper.

Are you going in the rainy season? A small fold-up umbrella and a packable mac may be a good idea. You should also take good hat - preferably one that is properly UV-proof

Remember, good quality clothes and shoes are not going to be available (good sandals are impossible to get). Pack the good stuff - Rohan, Paramo, Craghoppers, Merrell, Tilley. Then when you get there have fun buying cheap every-day stuff on the market in Blantyre.

5.2 Packing checklist The following is a rough guide to the things that you should consider taking on your trip. This will, of course, depend on where you are from, how long you are staying, what time of year you will be there and whether you plan to travel to other parts of Malawi, or to other African countries, during your trip.

5.2.1 Paperwork

• Passport;


• Tickets;

• Health insurance;

• Immunisation record and yellow fever certificate;

• Any important health information (eye prescription? Do you have allergies or take medication?)

• Credit and debit cards (with emergency lost-card phone numbers);

• Dollars (lots);

• A few passport-sized photographs;

• Driving licence (a UK licence is valid in Malawi);

• Map (The “International Travel Map” of Malawi and Mozambique ISBN: 978-1553413073 is a good one and is available on Amazon), travel guide; what about book(s) on animals/birds?

• Additional photocopies of important documents in case you lose them;

5.2.2 General items

• Universal sink plug - basins at Chipembere will have plugs, but most places in Africa won’t;

• Pegless washing line. Very handy. Ask at your local travel shop;

• Locks for the rucksack. Take combination locks - locks with keys are a pain, you always lose the keys;

• Head torch. You won’t need it much at Chipembere, but it’s still worth having one. Get a good one, Petzl are the best, expensive but well worth the extra money;

• Camera. Take a good one, and lots of storage – SD cards are expensive in Malawi and you’ll take more photos than you expect. Consider taking a small one that’ll slip into your pocket too, but don’t be too stingy, cheap electrical items tend to curl up and die in the heat and the humidity;

• Binoculars;

• Mobile phone (make sure it is unlocked);

• Laptop and plenty of storage;

• Money belt or concealable pouch;

• Pacsafe Travelsafe (a reinforced pouch that locks to a fixture and packs up flat when travelling);

• Mains adapter / surge protector;

• Swiss army knife, or similar (remember, don’t pack it in your hand baggage when flying);

• Batteries in all the required sizes;

• Battery charger. (Don’t forget the charger for the phone. Does the camera have its own too?);

• Mosquito net – not required at Chipembere, and most decent hostelries supply them, but if you are planning to travel you might want to consider having one in your pack;

• If you’re packing a tent and sleeping bag, think about putting in a pillow case;

• Zip-loc bags – indispensable! Also black bin-bags take up very little space and often come in handy;

• Diary / notebook;

• Pens & pencils;

• String or cord;

5.2.3 Toiletry & Pharmaceuticals

• Suntan cream (take plenty, especially October-April, and don’t forget to leave left-overs for albinos);

• Aftersun;

• Insect repellent for clothes (Mosiguard);

• First aid kit with needles;

• Pain killers / anti-inflammatories;

• Malaria prophylaxis;

• A broad spectrum antibiotic, eg ciprofloxacin;

• Antihistamine cream for insect bites;


• Plasters (take plenty they’re hard to get in Malawi), dressings;

• Safety pins;

• Compeed for blisters;

• Immodium;

• Dioralyte;

• Antiseptic (use an iodine based one, such as Betadine. Tea tree oil is also good);

• Wet-wipes or antiseptic handwash gel;

• Scissors;

• Rubber gloves;

• Soap;

• Toothbrush, toothpaste (toothbrushes with an integral bristle cover are a nice idea);

• Brush & comb;

• Shaving kit or battery shaver if required;

• Wonder towel. Ordinary towels take up so much space, the modern high-absorbency towels are brilliant;

• Sewing kit;

5.2.4 Clothes

• Short and long trousers, maybe convertibles;

• Short sleeved and long sleeved shirts;

• Good sandals – these will get a lot of wear, take the best you can afford;

• A pair of solid outdoor shoes, or walking boots;

• Chipembere and the reserve are sandy so you might want to take a pair of light shoes as well;

• Spare laces;

• A fleece – it can get cold. You’ll be amazed how chilly Blantyre is once you’re used to the temperature at Mwabvi;

• Light waterproof and collapsible umbrella, especially if you’re going in the rainy season;

• UV-proof hat;

• Sun glasses;

• Spare specs. if you wear them, and a case;

• Work gloves, if you might be helping with the construction projects

• Swimming trunks (you must visit the Lake during your trip – is there room for the fins and snorkel?);

• Sox, hanx & knix;

5.2.5 Things to buy when you arrive

In Lilongwe the Shoprite supermarket and the banks are all in the Old Town. In Blantyre the banks are in the Victoria area, which is the main shopping centre, but Shoprite and the larger supermarkets are a bit further out at the Chichiri Mall off Masauko Chipembere Highway. See maps in section 9 and 10.

• Currency;

• “Peaceful sleep” insect repellant;

• Malawi SIM for phone;

• Toilet paper

• Water

5.2.6 What the careful traveller always has in the day sack

• Water;

• Soap, or antiseptic wet-wipes or hand wash;

• Sun cream;


• Toilet paper;

• Plasters;

• 1 pair rubber gloves;

• Swiss army knife;

6 Useful contacts and websites Project African Wilderness (UK)

www.projectafricanwilderness.org Raven House, 113, Fairfield Street, Manchester M12 6EL. +44 (0) 161 272 8372

Mwabvi Wildlife & Community Trust (Malawi)

www.volunteerafrica.co.za PO Box 17, Chiromo, Nsanje District, Malawi. +265 (0)1946173

British High Commision (Malawi)

PO Box 30042, Lilongwe 3. +265 (0)1772 400 or 683 or 701 or 182 or 027 or 123

http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/sub-saharan-africa/malawi Travel advice for Malawi.

https://www.locate.fco.gov.uk/locateportal/ A free service for British nationals travelling to or living outside of the United Kingdom.

http://www.mytsafe.com/ A secure on-line document store.

http://www.masta-travel-health.com/ Travel health advice including a Travel Health Brief for a specified destination.

http://www.bloodcare.org.uk/ Provides screened blood, in an emergency, to its members in any part of the world.

7 Reading list If you don’t have anything to read on the plane, here are a few suggestions:

• “The Scramble for Africa” by Thomas Pakenham. This 800 page doorstop is the seminal work on the history of the colonisation of Africa;

• “Livingston” by Tim Jeal. A “warts and all” biography of this strange, driven man, whose explorations took him up the escarpment that you will drive down out of Blantyre, the city that is named after his birthplace in Scotland and where he founded his church in Malawi;

• “Stanley” by Tim Jeal. A fascinating account of an explorer even stranger than Livingstone;

• “Cry of the Kalhari” by Mark and Delia Owens, who spent the first seven years of their married life living alone in the Botswanian desert;

• “The Eye of the Elephant” by Mark and Delia Owens. Further adventures of this incredible couple.

8 Some useful phrases in Chichewa Moni (A general greeting) Muli bwanji? How are you? Ndili bwino, kaya inu? I’m fine, how about you? Ndili bwinonso I’m fine as well Zikomo Thank you (also used as a greeting, and at the end of a conversation) Odi Excuse me (can be used instead of knocking, especially if there is no door!) Pepani I’m sorry (this is used more as an expression of sympathy than as an apology)


Mwadszuka bwanji? Good morning (literally “how is your morning”) Ndadzuka bwino Response (literally “My morning is fine”) Mwaswera bwanji? Good day / good afternoon Ndaswera bwino Response (literally “My day / afternoon is fine”) Tiwonana See you later Tiyeni Let’s go Bambo Father or older man (when greeting an older man address him as Abambo –

“Muli bwanji Abambo?” Mayi / Mai Mother or older woman (when greeting an older woman address her as Amayi –

“Muli bwanji Amayi?” Dzina lanu / laku ndani? What is your name? (“lanu” is polite, “laku” informal, e.g. when addressing

children) Dzina langa ndi ____ My name is ____ Mumachokera kuti? Where are you from? Ndimachokera ku England I am from England Iyayi No Inde Yes (in everyday speech, yes is expressed as a long “Eh!”) Ndikufuna ____ I would like ____ Madzi Water Chimbudzi Toilet Mowa Beer

Dave Midgley 18/11/2010 Revised 14/05/2011 Revised 26/07/2011 Revised 24/08/2011


9 Map of Lilongwe


10 Map of Blantyre

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