GROWING CYCNOCHES AS MOTHER NATURE WOULD

7/17/2019 GROWING CYCNOCHES AS MOTHER NATURE WOULD

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28 SUPPLEMENT TO OCTOBER 2012 ORCHIDS WWW.AOS.ORG

GROWING CYCNOCHES AS MOTHER NATURE WOULDTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRED CLARKE

Sunset Valley Orchids, 1255 Navel Place, Vista, California 92081 (email [email protected]; website www.sunsetvalleyorchids.com)

CYCNOCHES IS A GENUS OF AP-

proximately 34 species native to tropical

America. The flowers are swan shaped

and cascade down on pendulous inflores-

cences of 7–30 blossoms, depending on

the species. Closely related genera include

Catasetum, Mormodes and Clowesia. Their

unique flowers, method of pollination,growth habit and dormancy period make

these remarkable orchids and excellent

plants for the hobbyist. Cycnoches have a

well-defined growth and rest periods each

year. Understanding how the weather influ-

ences their annual growth and flowering

cycle will make you a better grower and

lead you to awe-inspiring floral displays.

One of the most interesting things about

Cycnoches is that the flowers are sexually

dimorphic. This is where a single plant

can produce flowers that are either male

or female. In my experience, flower sex is

determined by the environment. Plants that

are mature and receive the right amount

of light, moisture and fertilizer are more

likely to produce female flowers. Plants

that are small and are grown in low light

or extremely bright light are most likely

to bloom male. The reason for this may

relate to the plant’s resources. It takes a lot

of energy for a plant to hold and mature aseed capsule through the dormant period of

winter, and it makes sense that the largest

plants growing in the best locations would

produce female flowers.

Cycnoches plants have adapted in

nature to growing where there is a wet

summer followed by a dry winter period.

The plants begin their growth cycle dur-

ing the lengthening days of spring and are

in active growth during the wet summer

months. Flowering begins with the onset

of shortening days and diminishing rains

in the autumn. In winter, with short days,

cool nights and an end to the rains, the

plants prepare for dormancy by dropping

their foliage. This is the plant’s adaptation

to conserve moisture and survive until

spring. Few orchid plants go through such

a dramatic change based on strongly sea-

sonal conditions, but once you understand

these requirements and adjust your culture

accordingly, Cycnoches will become some

of the most rewarding orchids in your

collection.

A SEASON-BY-SEASON GUIDE As

with all orchids, closely duplicating the

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[1] Cycnoches Richard Brandon ‘Nice Dif-

ferent’ (warscewiczii × Jean E. Monnier).

Grower all plants: Fred Clarke/Sunset

Valley Orchids.

[2] Cycnoches Richard Brandon ‘Sunset

Valley Orchids’.

[3] Cycnoches Richard Brandon ‘Sunset Val-

ley Orchids’, female.



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[4] Cycnoches cooperi , female.

[5] Cycnoches cooperi ‘Sunset ValleyOrchids III’, FCC/AOS.

[6] Cycnoches Chloroge ‘Everglades’

(chlorochilon × loddigesii ).

[7] Cycnoches Jumbo Cooper (warscewiczii

× cooperi ), female.




Spring Do not wa-

ter when new growth

is just star ting.

Late Spring Con-

tinue to withhold wa-

ter when new growth

and new roots are at

this stage.

Summer Begin

watering when the

new growth and

roots are 3–5 inches

(7.5–10 cm) long.

Autumn and Early Winter Yellowing leaves

indicate the first signs of dormancy. At this

time, reduce watering by 50 percent.

Dormancy Do not

water when a plant

is dormant (leafless).

KNOWING WHEN TO WATER CYCNOCHES

natural habitat of Cycnoches will give the

best results. Let’s look at how we can learnfrom nature and adapt our growing condi-

tions to best suit the plants’ needs.

Spring Cycnoches begin their growth

with the lengthening days in the spring.

New growth emerges at the base of the prior

year’s pseudobulb (now leafless). In nature,

the development of the new growth occurs

prior to the rainy season, so the plant does

not need watering during its initial growth.

After about a month, the new growth will

put out new roots. Once these new roots

have reached a length of 3–5 inches (7.5–

12.5 cm) it is time to begin to water andfertilize. Let me emphasize this point: Wait

to water until the new roots are 3–5 inches

long. I find that waiting to water is not easy,

because, my natural instinct is to begin

watering when I see new growth. However,

I have learned through trial and error that

withholding water during this early growth

period will produce more roots, which is

vital to the success of the plant in the com-

ing year. Cycnoches roots deteriorate during

dormancy, and in the following year they

are not as effective at taking up moisture

and nutrients. Thus, waiting to water until

the new roots are 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5 cm)

long assures that the new roots will develop

to their full potential.

Summer With the new roots suf-

ficiently developed and irrigation and

fertilization begun, the plant enters a period

of rapid growth and development. The new

pseudobulbs grow and mature quickly; you

can almost watch the plants grow. This is

the rainy season in nature, when it is raining

almost daily, and the plants have evolved

to utilize constant moisture. In most cases,

irrigation will be needed two or three times

a week. A balanced full-strength fertilizer

(1 teaspoon per gallon [5 g per 3.8 L]) is

suggested. Bright light levels at or abovethose suggested for cattleyas will help to

produce strong growth and flowering.

Autumn Cycnoches will have fully

developed their pseudobulbs by now, and

this is the time when the fruits of your la-

bor will begin to pay off as the flowering

season begins. In nature, with the onset

of shortening days in autumn and nearing

the end of the rainy season, the Cycnoches

have completed the season’s growth, and

the pseudobulbs are beginning to harden

off in preparation for dormancy. Now is

the time to reduce your irrigation to halfof what you provided in summer and stop

fertilizing. The general rule to follow is re-

duce watering by half and stop fertilizing by

mid-November in the northern hemisphere

(mid-May in the southern hemisphere).

Winter This is when dormancy begins

in nature. Early winter signals the end of

the rains, and the plants respond by drop-

ping their leaves and going dormant. The

first signs of dormancy in your collection

will be the yellowing leaf tips on the lower

leaves. Shortly thereafter, the whole leaf

will yellow and drop. This leaf abscission

continues up the bulb until all are gone. By

late December, most leaves should have

yellowed or fallen off and irrigation should

be stopped. If not, dormancy should be

encouraged by withholding water.

A WORD ABOUT DORMANCY The

onset of dormancy is caused by factors

such as the maturity of the pseudobulb,

shortening day length, cooler day/night

temperatures, a reduction of rain (irrigation)

and finally no rain (no irrigation). In most

of the United States dormancy will occur

naturally. However, in warm/hot areas such

as south Texas, south Florida, Hawaii, or in

the home or under lights, dormancy some-

times needs to be forced. I have found thatstopping the watering in late December,

regardless of the number of green leaves,

will help to trigger dormancy. This process

is important, because these plants need dor-

mancy as an important part of their growth

cycle. The sooner the plants go dormant, the

sooner they will begin new growth in the

spring. We want the new growth to begin

as early as possible in the spring, to assure

a long summer growing season and give

the best flowering.

UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS OF

CYCNOCHES It is a common occur-rence for large Cycnoches plants with four

or five mature pseudobulbs to have the

older pseudobulbs shrivel up and die when

the new growths start. This can be alarm-

ing, but is in the nature of the plants. One

way to keep from losing the backbulbs is

to divide your plant as soon as it has four

mature pseudobulbs by making two two-

bulb divisions. This practice will help you

enlarge your collection or have material to

trade with your friends.

Temperature During active growth in

the summer, when you are watering and fer-

tilizing frequently, ideal day temperatures

should be 75–95 F (24–35 C) with nights

of 60–75 F (16–24 C). In winter, during

the dry dormancy, the day temperatures

should be 60–75 F (16–24 C), with night

temperatures of 55–65 F (13–18 C).

Humidity Cycnoches growth will

benefit from year-round humidity levels

between 50 and 80 percent.

Air Movement As with many orchids,

Cycnoches benefit from abundant air move-

ment. If you are growing in a greenhouse,

use air-circulating fans. Hanging the

plants allows for maximum air movement



WWW.AOS.ORG SUPPLEMENT TO OCTOBER 2012 ORCHIDS 31

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[8] Cycnoches Swan Cascade ‘Dark Swan’

(cooperi × Jean E. Monnier).

[9] Cycnoches Swan Cascade ‘Sunset Val-

ley Orchids’, AM/AOS.

[10] Cycnoches Kevin Clarke ‘Gold Spots’

(warscewiczii × herrenhusanum ).

[11] Cycnoches Martha Clarke ‘Sunset Val-

ley Orchids’, AM/AOS (herrenhusanum

× barthorianum ).

[12] Cycnodes (Cyc. warscwiczii × Morm.

hookeri ‘Sunset Valley Orchids’).

[13] Cycnoches chlorochilon ‘Sunset Valley

Orchids’.

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GIVING THANKS

The American Orchid Society wouldlike to thank the donors whose generos-

ity made publication of this supplement possible.

The authors’ willingness to share theirexpertise is greatly appreciated as is the photographers who kindly allowed theirwork to be printed in this supplement aswell as the growers whose flowers andspecimens are showcased are equallyvalued. Wes Higgins, PhD, a member ofthe Society’s Publications Committee,assisted with proofreading as did ArleneMaguire, also a member of the Publica-tions Committee. John Wrench, advertis-ing manager, aided in the scanning and

detailed preparation of images. — Editor.

FRED Clarke owns and operates Sunset Valley Orchids, which is

dedicated to developing hybrids and producing select species for

the orchid enthusiast. He has been growing orchids for 35 years and

hybridizing for 30 of those years. He is a passionate orchid grower

whose curiosity in orchids is broad and varied. Most recently, he

produced the grex, Fredclarkeara After Dark ( Mo. Painted Desert

× Ctsm. Donna Wise), which produced “the blackest flower ever

witnessed.” This grex has received eight First Class Certificates,

eight Awards of Merit and the coveted Award of Distinction on the

first flowers shown for judging.

MEET THE AUTHOR — FRED CLARKE

around them and often they do best whenhanging.

Light Cycnoches do best with light

levels comparable to those suggested

for cattleyas at about 2,500–4,000 foot-

candles. In many parts of the United States,

Cycnoches grow well outside in the summer

months under 60 percent shade cloth.

Fertilizer When in active growth,

use 1 teaspoon of your favorite fertilizer

per gallon of water (5 g per 3.8 L) at each

watering.

Potting Mix For seedlings and mature

plants use up to a 5-inch (12.5-cm) pot. I

like to use New Zealand sphagnum moss

with the bottom 1/3 of the pot filled with

styrofoam peanuts.

Containers prefer to grow in plastic

pots; however, clay pots and baskets work

as well. Cycnoches should not be overpot-

ted, and it is important to select a pot size

that will allow for no more than two years

of growth.

Repotting and Dividing This is best

done as the new growth is just starting to

develop and before the new roots start to

show. Even though you have repotted, re-

member not to water until the roots are well

established, and 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5 cm)

long. Unlike most orchid plants, Cycnoches

do well when divided into pieces consisting

of two pseudobulbs. Divisions are made by

cutting with a sterile tool or by pulling the

pseudobulbs apart.

Virus Cycnoches can become infected

with the common orchid plant viruses. As a

precaution, I treat every plant carefully to

avoid the spread of viruses. When repot-

ting, use disposable gloves that you change

between plants, sterilize all cutting tools,

use new or sterilized pots, and use a fresh

sheet of newsprint under every plant you

are repotting.

Insect Pests Spider mites appear to

be attracted to the soft leaves of Cycnoches.

Spider mites are quite small and seeing

them may require a magnifying glass. They

live and feed on the chlorophyll in the cells

on the undersides of the leaves. Check for

them as the new growths are leafing out,

and control them with a recommended

miticide before they cause damage.

2012 SUPPLEMENTAL

ISSUE DONORS

Sustaining Donations19th World Orchid

Conference, Inc.The Joint Presidents

Council — to honorRita Cohen

Donors to theCycnoches

SupplementMark AbushadyRichard AmosGrace ArbuckleKaren ArmstrongCarl Arnheiter Thomas AsbachEdward Baenzinger Flavio BalestrinSue BottomConnie BartonBridget BinkoJoseph BovaTim BrooksWolfgang BullDavid CampenLinda ChenRosemary CheneryMark CohenStephen ColstonWalter CrawfordLinda CurleAnik Delage LeducCathy EignusLaun ElkinJohn ElwoodMario and Conni

FerrusiCarlos FighettiFolio Communications

Lynn Fuller Dr. Harry GallisWade Gardner Great Lakes Judging

Center Gregory GriffisElona HartjesJim HeiligCarl HollowayDavid Horak Diane Hysert

Eva JanovskaRuss KeithChaunie LanglandAmanda LavalleTimothy LegantKenneth Lister

Nicole LavoieLinda LoweDouglas MalloryCharles MannDonald MaplesRobert MarreseMichael MasonChryss MavridesScott MayJoyce Medcalf Bill Meyer Mid-Atlantic Judging

Center Alvin MooreLakshi NarayanaLaura NewtonDavid NickersonBarbara NoePacific Orchid Society

of HawaiiEdgardo PaunetoPatricia PerlsteinRobert PettiboneAndreas Pratter Oscar Sanchez GomezRobert Scully Jr.Alexandra ShepherdShining SeaInvestmentsMichael Sielaff Frank and TaylorSlaughter William Suddaby

Sunset Valley OrchidsTomasz Szewerniak Peggy TanMax Thompson andBryon RinkeBarbara UngersmaJuan Valdez JuarezBarbara Van der StoepPeter Volkmar Hung Yu WangDavid Waller

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[14] Cycnoches warscewiczii.

GROWING CYCNOCHES AS MOTHER NATURE WOULD

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