Greene &Greene Inspired Desk - Woodworker's Journal & Greene Inspired Desk If you’ve ever dreamed...

• Step by Step constructioninstruction.

• A complete bill of materials.

• Exploded view and elevationdrawings.

• How-to photos with instructivecaptions.

• Tips to help you complete theproject and become a betterwoodworker.

To download these plans,you will need Adobe Reader

installed on your computer. If you want to geta free copy, you can get it at: Adobe Reader.

Having trouble downloading the plans?• If you're using Microsoft Internet

Explorer, right click on the download linkand select "Save Target As" to downloadto your local drive.

• If you're using Netscape, right click onthe download link and select "Save LinkAs" to download to your local drive.

WJ041

“America’s leading woodworking authority”™

Greene & Greene Inspired Desk

Published in Woodworker’s Journal “Woodworking Favorites: TopProjects and Techniques for Your Shop and Home”

WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL ©2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Greene & GreeneInspired DeskIf you’ve ever dreamed of a signature piece in your home office or den, this handsome

mahogany desk could well be it. It has the sort of plug, trim and drawer pull details that

make it pleasing to both touch and view. And once you’re seated behind it, you’ll

know you’ve got a serious desk. Time to round up some prime

mahogany and get started!

GREENE & GREENE INSPIRED DESK 71

With a little investigation, we thinkyou’ll agree that this Greene and Greeneinspired desk is one of those rarewoodworking projects: It manages tobe an impressive piece on many levels,yet it’s very straightforward to build.

For many years now, MikeMcGlynn, one of our contributing editors, has been tremendously fond of the Greene brothers’ style. He once toured the Gamble house, theirCalifornia masterpiece, and viewedeven more examples of their furniture in

both the Los Angeles County museumand the Huntington Museum. Seeingthe Greenes’, (more accurately theirbuilders, the Hall brothers’) work upclose inspired Mike and taught himsome new tricks. He put this newfoundknowledge into the design of this desk.

Stocking UpWith the exception of the many

decorative details, this desk’s construc-tion is true bread-and-butter wood-working: mortise and tenon joinery,frame and panel construction, pockethole joints and breadboard ends.

One nice aspect of Greene andGreene furniture is its mahogany con-struction. In addition to looking nice, it makes wood selection easier, due tothe availability of clear, large-dimensionboards. To construct this desk, you’llneed some 10/4 stock for the legs and 5/4 for all the other solid parts. Inaddition, you will need a sheet of 3/4"mahogany plywood. You’ll also need1/2" Baltic birch plywood for the drawerboxes and a small amount of ebony forthe accent plugs and top splines.

Making the Drawer PedestalsThe first step to building the drawer

pedestals is to mill all of their solid-woodparts (pieces 1 through 7) to the dimen-

sions in the Material List on page 74.After you have your parts dimen-

sioned, but before you taper the feetand profile the bottom rails, cut all thejoints and panel grooves. There areessentially two types of joints in thesedrawer pedestals: mortise and tenonand pocket screw. Mike uses pocketscrews in certain areas because hefeels they are strong, efficient options.

He cuts his mortises and tenons on a Multi-Router, but as all of the mortisesand tenons are at right angles, they canbe readily cut with a variety of methods.Before you start to cut, make sure youmatch up your legs into groups of fourand mark which faces go together; thereis nothing worse than completing yourmortises and realizing you chopped aset on the outside face of one of yourperfectly grain-matched legs.

After matching up your legs com-pletely, lay out the mortises on one front(panel end) leg. (See the TechnicalDrawings for more construction details.)By drawing centerlines through thesemortises and transferring just the center-lines to the other legs you will have yourmortise index line without having to completely draw out all the mortises.

Once you’ve cut the leg mortises,lay out and chop the mortises in the topand bottom side rails. These are quite


72 HOME PROJECTS

Mike chops his mortises with a Multi-router.This project’s mortises are all conventionalstraight mortises that can be formed just aseasily in the traditional manner.

Tenons on the panel dividers are shorterthan those on the bottom rails. Test-fit thetenons in their mortises as you make them.

Install a mortising attachment on your drillpress to create the square mortise for thelegs’ decorative ebony plugs.

shallow mortises and are used more forpositioning than for strength.

When you have finished all themortises, lay out the tenons and cutthem with your preferred method. Tomake this project simpler, somethingMike is always in favor of, all the mortisesand tenons are the same size (with theexception of the side panel stiles).

Cutting the Panel GroovesOnce your mortises and tenons are

cut, get ready to cut the panel retaininggrooves in all the appropriate legs, railsand stiles.

You could use solid-wood panels in this desk, but Mike opted to use 1/4" plywood for its lightness and for itsbook-matched figure. If possible, go toa yard where they will allow you to lookthrough the plywood. Carefully examinethe veneer seams and choose sheetsfrom which you’ll be able to cut balanced-looking panels. When you get the plywood to your shop, you’ll notice the1/4" plywood is more like 7/32" or 3/16"thick. It’s for this reason you don’t wantto plow the panel grooves before youhave your plywood in hand. Mike cutshis grooves on a router table with afence. You might have to take two pass-es with a smaller bit to make a properlysized groove, which should be a niceslip fit—not too tight or too loose.(NOTE: set aside the top and bottomrails on the drawer side: these don’tneed grooves.) Start by grooving the

central panel stile, then the top and bot-tom rails, and finally the legs. This way,you can slip the piece into its mortiseand match up the groove in the receiv-ing piece perfectly. Now is the time tocut your plywood panels (pieces 8 and9) to size, testing their fit as you go.

Before proceeding to the detailing,cut the square mortises for the ebonyplugs. As before, do a complete layouton one leg and then use centerlines onall the others. Cut these mortises 3/16"deep with a square mortising chisel set-up on your drill press.

Greene and Greene DetailsSpecial design details create this

desk’s Greene and Greene style.Creating them requires several steps:tapering the bottoms of the legs, cuttingthe “cloud lifts” in the rails, and round-ing over all the appropriate edges.Taper the legs on a simple table sawtapering jig and clean them up with ablock plane and sandpaper. The “cloudlifts” are best made by template-shapingon a router table. Mike usually makes atemplate from 1/4" material, draws thepattern on the desk component, cut itout to within 1/16", then tapes the tem-plate to the part and shapes it with a1/2" bearing-guided pattern bit in arouter table. After routing, square up the inside corners with a sharp chisel.

You also need to ease the outsidecorner of the cloud lift to a slight curve.The last step before the roundovers is

to cut pocket holes in the top rails andthe drawer dividers.

To do you roundovers, use a trimrouter if you have one with a 1/8"roundover bit. You will be rounding overthe appropriate edges of the legs (seethe Technical Drawings), the bottomrails, the top rails, the panel stile andthe drawer dividers. Be very careful notto round over the ends of any part otherthan the leg bottoms.

To prepare for staining, sand allpieces, including the panels, to 120 grit.Raise the grain with a damp cloth andthen sand to 220. Mike prefers to stainthe pieces apart because it results in amore even stain job and less time inpurgatory for swearing. The stain heuses for Greene and Green mahoganypieces is a water-based aniline dye. It iseasily applied, colorfast and doesn’tmuddy the surface. It’s best to experi-ment a bit and get your technique downbefore staining the actual desk parts.

After the stained pieces are dry, thereis one final step before assembly: buff allthe surfaces with a fine Scotchbrite® pad.It smoothes out any raised grain and willprovide you with a much better finish. Besure to wear rubber gloves when handlingthe stained parts so that skin moisturedoesn’t lift or mark the water-soluble dye.

Assembling the PedestalsThe first stage of assembly is to

assemble the side subassemblies. Inthe interest of longevity, Mike uses West



While visiting the Huntington Museum, Mike was powerfully impressed with the levelof detail the Greenes included in their furniture pieces. These drawer handles wereinspired by observing furniture at the museum. To make the handles, first cut the blanksto size and then create a template to form the handle’s subtle curve. Find the template’sshape on the Technical Drawings. After you have shaped the curve and relieved the finger-grip cove, step to the table saw and trim the handle’s base to match the depth ofthe cove cut. This creates a base that flows gently into the front aspect of the handle.

The gentle curve of the drawer pulls onlybecomes visible as you approach

the desk, adding a subtletouch of elegance to a

beautiful piece.

Trim the remaining stock away on yourtable saw to form the drawer pull’s finalfootprint.

With the base to the fence, use a cove bitto relieve a finger grip on the handle. Thenstep to the table saw to trim the base’sfootprint.

Substance and style create the Greene andGreene look. The final step in making thehandle is boring mortises for the ebonyplug accents.

Template routing a subtle curve is the firststep in making the desk’s drawer handles.Use double-sided tape to attach the tem-plate—and keep your fingers clear.

ELEGANT HANDLE DESIGN…A CLASSIC GREENE AND GREENE DETAIL

System Epoxy for his furniture as it isbombproof and has a long set-up time.Before starting your assembly, gathereverything you’ll need and be sure thetenon ends and panel edges are slightlyeased to aid assembly. Attach the bot-tom rail to the legs, then the panel stileto the bottom rail, slip the panels intoplace—in their correct orientation.Clamp everything together and drivehome the top rail pocket screws.Although it probably isn’t necessary,Mike also adds a screw through the toprail into the end of the panel stile tenon.

Once you have the four side sub-

assemblies done, join them to eachother with the top and bottom rails andallow the epoxy to cure. The installationof the drawer dividers is accomplishedwith the use of two spacer blocks thatmatch the size of the drawer opening.Being that the pocket holes are on thebottom side of the dividers, turn theunits upside down and put the topdivider in first, resting the spacers onthe underside of the top rail. Install theremaining dividers in turn.

The last step in the pedestalassembly is installing the drawer slidesupports (pieces 10). They’re made of

3/4" ply and are screwed in place ontospacers (pieces 11). To ease drawerslide installation, glue small supporttabs (pieces 12) to the bottom edge of the slide supports, prior to installingthese pieces. When you install the slide supports, use a large combinationsquare to make sure the top face of this tab is in-line and square to the topedge of the drawer dividers.

Making the DrawersNow you need to build the

drawers, drawer faces and drawer pulls (pieces 13 through 24). Since Mike


74 HOME PROJECTS

Desk Exploded View

1

110

10

2

2

3

4

4

5

6

6

7

7

8

8

9

11

12

13

1315

14

2115

17

13

17 1819

20

22

23

24

3629

2825

30

32

31

33

34

35

32

MATERIAL LIST – Carcass & Drawers

T x W x L

1 Legs (8) 2" x 2" x 28"

2 Drawer Dividers (4) 1" x 17⁄8" x 145⁄16"

3 Short Bottom Rails (4) 1" x 2" x 165⁄16"

4 Long Bottom Rails (4) 1" x 2" x 31"

5 Short Top Rails (4) 1/2" x 17⁄8" x 145⁄16"

6 Long Top Rails (4) 1/2" x 17⁄8" x 29"

7 Panel Stiles (4) 3/4" x 11⁄2" x 237⁄8"

8 Pedestal Side Panels (8) 1/4" x 141⁄8" x 235⁄8"

9 Pedestal End Panels (2) 1/4" x 143⁄4" x 235⁄8"

10 Drawer Slide Supports (12) 3/4" x 3" x 29"

11 Drawer Slide Spacers (8) 3/4" x 1/2" x 20"

12 Drawer Support Tabs (12) 3/4" x 11⁄2" x 5"

13 Small Drawer Sides (8) 1/2" x 45⁄8" x 22"

14 Large Drawer Sides (4) 1/2" x 91⁄8" x 22"

15 Small Drawer Fronts & Backs (8) 1/2" x 45⁄8" x 129⁄16"

16 Large Drawer Fronts & Backs (4) 1/2" x 45⁄8" x 129⁄16"

17 Drawer Bottoms (6) 1/4" x 135⁄16" x 22"

18 Pencil Drawer Sides (2) 1/2" x 13⁄8" x 22"

19 Pencil Drawer Front & Back (2) 1/2" x 13⁄8" x 281⁄4"

20 Pencil Drawer Bottom (1) 1/4" x 22" x 29"

is more interested in utility than purism, he builds his drawers out of 1/2" Balticbirch plywood with rabbeted corners,with a 1/4" mahogany veneered MDFcore bottom, nailed directly to the bottom of the drawer box. Purists will cringe at this bottom attachmentmethod, but Mike challenges any “bottom in a groove” to a strength and longevity test. If you plan to usehanging files in the file drawers, add1/8" x 1" aluminum rails (see theTechnical Drawings).

The drawer faces are made ofcarefully selected 1"-thick solid wood.For appearance’s sake, it is best to getall the drawer fronts—including the pencil drawer—out of one 11"-pluswide board of slightly ribbon stripedmaterial. With pieces as wide as the filedrawer fronts, be sure to allow them toadjust to equilibrium before their finalmilling. The pencil drawer front with its cloud lift is machined in the samemanner as the bottom rails.

Making the Drawer PullsThe drawer pulls on this desk were

a direct inspiration from some Greeneand Greene pieces Mike viewed at theHuntington Museum. Only up close doyou notice the subtle curves of thesepulls, but it really adds a delightfultouch. See the sidebar on the preced-ing page for instructions on how tobuild these pulls. One important thing tonote is that you should put in plenty oftime sanding these to make sure theyare smooth, fair and nicely tactile. Stainthe pulls and fronts in the same manneras the cabinet.

For Modesty’s Sake...The next subassembly to tackle is

the modesty panel. This is quite simple,as it consists of only five parts. Mikeused 3/4" plywood for the center panel



1

110

10

2

2

3

4

4

5

6

6

7

7

8

8

9

11

12

13

1315

14

2115

17

13

17 1819

20

22

23

24

3629

2825

30

32

31

33

34

35

32

MATERIAL LIST – Drawers, Modesty Panel & Details

T x W x L

21 Large Drawer Faces (2) 1" x 103⁄8" x 143⁄16"

22 Small Drawer Faces (4) 1" x 51⁄4" x 143⁄16"

23 Pencil Drawer Face (1) 1" x 21⁄4" x 311⁄4"

24 Drawer Pulls (6) 1" x 1" x 10"

25 Modesty Panel (1) 3/4" x 231⁄4" x 307⁄8"

26 Modesty Panel Lower Rail (1) 11⁄4" x 2" x 313⁄8"

27 Modesty Panel Upper Rail (1) 1/2" x 17⁄8" x 313⁄8"

28 Modesty Panel End Stiles (2) 1/2" x 13⁄4" x 231⁄4"

T x W x L

29 Top (1) 15/16" x 353⁄4" x 64"

30 Breadboard Endcaps (2) 1" x 31⁄2" x 36"

31 Leg and Drawer Ebony Plugs (22) 3/8" x 3/8" x 9/32"

32 Small Ebony Plugs (18) 1/4" x 1/4" x 9/32"

33 Large End Cap Ebony Plugs (6) 3/4" x 3/8" x 9/32"

34 Long End Cap Ebony Plugs (4) 9/32" x 3/8" x 33⁄4"

35 Ebony Splines (4) 3/8" x 11/16" x 7"

36 Pencil Drawer Trim (1) 1/2" x 17⁄8" x 313⁄8"


29

30

35

36"

343/8"353/4"

76 HOME PROJECTS

Begin assembling the pedestal’s side sub-assemblies as shown above. Note the toprails’ orientation and pocket screw joints.

Mike used a waterbased aniline dye for this project. He prefers to stain the pieces apartbecause it results in a more even stain joband less time in purgatory for swearing.

The end caps are attached with screws but no adhesive. Machine the groove for the top'stongue 1/16" deeper than the tongue itself. The mortises for the ebony spines must allowthe splines to float, to accommodate seasonal wood movement.

(piece 25), and while this may seem likean odd choice, he knew 1/4" was toothin and 1/2" is hard to find.

As with the other panels, cut apiece that has a nicely center-balancedveneer pattern. Once you have thepanel in hand, mill up your four sur-round pieces (pieces 26 through 28)with the appropriately sized grooves in them to receive the panel. Using the same method employed in the bottom rails, form the cloud lift in thebottom rail. After drilling the attachmentholes in the side and top rails, roundover the edges and stain the parts.Then, using glue, nails and screws,assemble the panel.

Topping It OffConstruction of the top is the last

major subassembly. Quite frankly, if the

other subassemblies were fairly easy,the top (piece 29) looks deceptivelysimple, but is in fact quite difficult,especially the floating ebony splines.Because the top is the most visible partof the desk, carefully select the woodwith the most pleasing grain matchpossible. Also, make sure the topboards are milled perfectly flat.

Again, Mike uses epoxy to glue upthe top. One quick point: an epoxy glueline will not react with the aniline dye asregular glue will. Once the top is gluedup, square it up and cut it to size.

Cutting the tongues on the end ofthe top and their matching splinegrooves is the first real opportunity you have to completely screw up thetop—one false move and you have a lotof nice mahogany for some smallerproject. Mike cut the tongue with a

three-wing slot cutter in a hand-heldrouter. Make two to three passes oneach side to form the tongue; this willresult in a much smoother job. (Clamp a piece of waste stock on each side toprevent blowout.) Now, lay out thespline-mortise (for the ebony spline).Using the same router and bit (reset tothe correct depth), rout it and clean upthe ends of these slots with a chisel.

The end caps (pieces 30) for thetop are also fairly tricky. After millingyour parts, plow a groove to match thetongue so the cap and the top are flushon the bottom, but notice that the capis 1/16" proud of the top (see theTechnical Drawings). It’s important totake this slowly and get a nice slip fit—not too tight, not too loose. Form thegroove 1/16" deeper than the tongue to allow for a year-round tight fit. Aftercutting the groove, mark out the splineslots and chop them out with a chisel.You’ll notice this slot is 5/16" deeperthan the mortise in the top’s edge. Thisallows the end cap to be 1/8" proud ofthe top and creates 3/16" of spline-floatroom, accommodating seasonal expan-sion and contraction due to humidity.

The rectangular plug mortises (see the Technical Drawings) in the cap are cut with a combination of routertable and chisels. Under the three 3/8"x 3/4" mortises there are countersunkholes for attachment screws. Theseholes and their oversized pilot holesshould be drilled on a drill press, asthey must be very accurate.

At this point, you can do the roundover/sand/stain routine for the top andcap. Be very careful of the inboard topcap edge, as it needs only a slightroundover—best done by hand. Onceyou have the parts stained, you can slip the caps in place and, through theattachment holes, mark the tongue, drill it and screw the caps in place.



Cloud lift horizontal elements, plugs of contrasting colors and accentuatingshapes. Simple lines repeated and amplified… strong Asian influences creating subtle yet striking visual effects.The Greene brothers succeeded indeveloping a recognizable yet freshstyle. Their plugs are especially easy to make; just cut a stick to size, roundover the top, buff and trim.

It takes a little longer, but getting donein a hurry wasn’t one of the Greene brothers’design goals.

Durable Finish and Ebony PlugsWhen you have all your subassem-

blies stained and ready, it’s time for finishing. Mike sprays three to four coatsof medium rubbed-effect catalyzed lacquer, but you can achieve just asgood a finish by hand with a semiglossvarnish and patience.

The final construction step, beforeassembly, is to make all the ebony plugsand splines (pieces 31 through 35). Forthe 1/4" x 1/4" plugs and the 3/8" x 3/8"plugs, Mike generally mills up a stick ofthat dimension, sands and polishes theend to a slight dome, then cuts off theplug to the proper length. He repeatsthis until he has enough plugs. After easing the inside corners a bit to facilitateinsertion, these plugs can be drivenhome with a touch of silicone caulk ontheir back sides to hold them if the woodshould ever shrink enough to loosen them.The splines are a bit time-consumingbecause of their shape. Mike cuts themout on a bandsaw and completes themwith a combination of files, sandpaperand buffing. You must make sure thatthey are a slightly loose slip-fit so the cap can expand and contract past themfreely. They are glued to the top only. The last ebony parts are the rectangularplugs in the end cap. They are againsawn, sanded and polished to size. Theplugs covering the attachment screwsare glued in place with silicone adhesiveto facilitate possible future removal, andthe others are simply glued in place.

Final AssemblyBefore starting the assembly, it’s

best to turn the top upside down, on a padded surface, and lay out the positions of the base pedestals, pencildrawer side mounting and modestypanel. By doing this, you can accuratelyposition the small recesses you have torout for the tabletop fasteners. While

you’ve got the top turned upside down,attach the trim strip (piece 36) justabove the pencil drawer and the pencildrawer slides. It’s also a good time toset the modesty panel in place andmark its mounting holes on the under-side of the top.

The drawer, drawer front and pullinstallation is very straightforward, iftedious. For the top drawers, Mike usesK.V. 8500 slides and for the file drawers,K.V. 8505, 22". The pulls are screwed tothe drawer faces from inside, and thenthe faces are attached to the drawerboxes with washer-head screws andoversize holes to allow some positioningfor any final adjustments.

With this, your four subassembliesare complete and can be put together.

This is done by attaching the top to the drawer pedestals with the tabletopfasteners and then attaching the mod-esty panel to the top, drilling the sidepilot holes, and screwing the modestypanel to the legs. It should be notedthat this assembly must take placewherever you want the desk, because it will need to be taken apart to movefrom one room to another.

Well, that’s it! Now sit back, enjoyyour new desk, and dream about yourhostile takeover of Microsoft. Well, atleast you have the desk for it.

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS


Technical Drawings

78 HOME PROJECTS

11/16"

33/4"

83/8"

21/2"

15/8"

18"

145/16"

133/4" 11/2"

29"2"

313/8"

70" 36"

41/4" 41/4"

1"

1"

143/4"

211/8"

231/4"

13/16"1/2"

9/16"7"

29/16"

21/2"

Center

1/2"9/16"

5"

29"

11/16"

33/4"

83/8"

21/2"

15/8"

18"

145/16"

133/4" 11/2"

29"2"

313/8"

70" 36"

41/4" 41/4"

1"

1"

143/4"

211/8"

231/4"

13/16"1/2"

9/16"7"

29/16"

21/2"

Center

1/2"9/16"

5"

29"

Oversizedhole

Greene and Greene Desk Top(Front View)

Greene and Greene Desk Top(Top View)

Breadboard End Cap andEbony Spline Detail

(Top View)

Ebony SplineEbony

Plug

Tabletop

EndCap

The groovewill allow fora 1/16" gap .

Pencil Drawer Trim Location

Greene and Greene Desk(Side View)



11/16"

33/4"

83/8"

21/2"

15/8"

18"

145/16"

133/4" 11/2"

29"2"

313/8"

70" 36"

41/4" 41/4"

1"

1"

143/4"

211/8"

231/4"

13/16"1/2"

9/16"7"

29/16"

21/2"

Center

1/2"9/16"

5"

29"

Greene and Greene Desk(Front View)

44

4

6

6

7 7

7

7

8

1/8"1/4" 1"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail

1"

1/2"1"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail44

4

6

6

7 7

7

7

8

1/8"1/4" 1"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail

1"

1/2"1"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail

Panel Stile(Front View)

Panel Stile(Side View)


Technical Drawings

80 HOME PROJECTS

1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

Center the drawer slidetabs on the drawer slidesupports. Mount thesupports so the tabs arelevel with the drawerdividers.

Drawer Slide Supportand Drawer Support

Tab Subassembly(Front View)

Drawer Pedestal(Front View)

Mount the drawer slide supports so theirtabs are level with the drawer dividers.

Pocket hole joint location.

Pocket holejoint location.

Pocket holejoint location.



1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

Grooves for the 1/4" plywood are plowedinto the top rails (pieces 5 and 6).

Front Leg (Top View)

Back Leg (Top View)

Drawer dividerlocation

Drawer dividerlocation

1/4" groove forplywood panel.This is a stoppedgroove that endsin the rail tenonmortise.

1/4" groove forplywood panel.

1/4" groove forplywood panel

Top Rail (Section View)

Drawer Pedestal(Side View)

Note: There are nopanel grooves inthe two short railsthat are mounted atthe front of thedrawer pedestals.


Technical Drawings

82 HOME PROJECTS

44

4

6

6

7 7

7

7

8

1/8"1/4" 1"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail

1"

1/2"1"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

1/2"

1/2"

1/8"

Center on rail

(Side View)

(Top View)

(Side View)

Long Top Rail Panel Stile Mortise Location

Long Bottom Rail Panel StileMortise Location

Panel StileMortise Detail

(Bottom View)

1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

Short Bottom Rail (Front View)

Short Bottom Rail

(End View)

Note: There are no panelgrooves in the two short railsthat are mounted at the front ofthe drawer pedestals.



1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1 1

1

1

1

110

10

10

10

2

2

3

3

3

4

4

4

5

5

6

87

8

8

9

9

11

11

12

12

12

1/4"1/4"

1/4"

1/4"1/ 4"

45°

11/ 2"

21/ 2" 1"

1/ 4"1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

11/ 2"

1"

2"

2"

1/ 4"

45°

5"1"

1/ 4"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"1/ 2"

1/ 2"3/ 4"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

3/ 8"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

1/ 2"

3/ 8"

21/ 2"

11/ 2"

213/ 16"

15/ 16"

151/ 4"

215/ 8"

1"

1/ 4"

1/ 4"

NOTE: The drawer slide spacers(pieces 11) are 1/8" oversized onthe Material List. Test-fit the piecesbefore you mount them in place. Itis important that the spacers holdthe drawer slide supports exactlyflush to the inside face of the legs.

Grooves for the 1/4"plywood are plowedon two faces of the

pedestal's back legsand on one side of

the front legs.

Drawer slide tab

Drawer slide tab

Leg, Panel, Spacer andSupport Joinery Detail

(Top View)

Drawer Pedestal (Top View)

Long Bottom Rail (Front View)

Tabletop fasteners onthe four corner legs

Long Bottom Rail

(End View)


Technical Drawings

84 HOME PROJECTS

13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

Note: The drawer pulls (pieces 24) arecentered on the faces of the four smalldrawers. The drawer pulls on the largedrawers match their placement on thesmall drawers (see above).

Note: Mount thedrawers to allow for1/16" clearance.Adjust the drawerfaces within thedrawer openings bymeans of oversizedpre-drilled screwholes and washerhead screws.

Pencil Drawer (Top View)

Pencil DrawerFace

(Front View)

Large Drawer (Front View)

Small Drawer (Front View)

Small Drawer (Side View)

Small and LargeDrawers(Top View)

Small andLarge DrawerCorner Detail

(Top View)



13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

13

15

17

17

14

13

16

14

17

20

18

19

19

18

21

21

2222

23 23

24

24

24

24

24

24

3/4"1"

45°

1/ 4"

1/ 8"

25/ 8"

25/ 8"

71/ 4"

2"

1/ 2"

Drawer Handle (End View) Full-Size

Drawer Handle (Front View)

Drawer Handle (Top View)

28

28

25

27

26

25

1/4"3/4"

1/8"

1/8"

1/2"

28

28

25

27

26

25

1/4"3/4"

1/8"

1/8"

1/2"

28

28

27

26

25

ModestyPanelDetails

Modesty PanelAssembly Details(Section View)

Note: The upper and lower modesty panelrails are simple butt joints secured with glueand screws. The modesty panel end stiles aregrooved and then glued and clamped in place.The modesty panel subassembly is mountedto the desk with screws only, at the time thedesk is assembled (where it will be used).

The modesty panelsubassembly’s

back edge ismounted flush to

the inside edge ofthe leg.

ModestyPanel End

Stile(Top View)


Greene &Greene Inspired Desk - Woodworker's Journal & Greene Inspired Desk If you’ve ever dreamed...

Documents

Transcript of Greene &Greene Inspired Desk - Woodworker's Journal & Greene Inspired Desk If you’ve ever dreamed...