Go Camping Australia - Issue 79
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Transcript of Go Camping Australia - Issue 79
gear to goWhat’s hot
need to knowRemote aRea suRvival
dineWinteR WaRmeR pies
4wd techniquestop take off tips
All About the outbAckTop Outback eventsTop 10 Outback campsWA’s five ancient formationsDrive the red heart, NTCharleville’s star shine, QLDGundabooka National Park, NSWOpera in Undara, QLDOrmiston Gorge, NTArkaroola, SAFish Exmouth, WA
win a Discovery space evolution off roaD roof top tent valueD at $3900.00
Discover
TesT Lab CAmPEr TrAiLEr + TENT rEviEWS
June – July 2012 Issue 79 Aus $6.95 NZ $8.95
3 Quick Getaways
_Front Cover.indd 1 29/05/12 12:14 PM
As a
special offer,
the gold fridge
also comes with
a limited edition
black and gold
transit bag!
In 2012 Engel celebrates 50 years and still remains the leading manufacturer
of portable fridge freezers in Australia. And we’re
celebrating by releasing a strictly LIMITED EDITION 50th ANNIVERSARY 40 litre model.
With the latest Sawafuji electronics
including built in battery monitor and digital thermostat control, the Limited Edition Gold Engel fridge freezer will become a must have for anyone with an appreciation
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For your nearest stockist or to view the entire range of Engel Fridge-Freezers and
accessories, call 1300 302 653 or visit www.engelaustralia.com.au
The first Engel
with the patented
Sawafuji swing motor with only one moving
part, specially designed for off road use.
_IFC_Engel.indd 1 29/05/12 12:17 PM
PACKED FULL OF FEATURES: FINGERPRINT RESISTANT STAINLESS STEEL WIRELESS REMOTE TEMPERATURE READ OUT INBUILT 240v AC + 12/24v DC POWER SUPPLY ADJUSTABLE BATTERY CUT OUT QUIET OPERATION DOOR OPEN ALARM ENERGY EFFICIENT POLAR COMPRESSOR INTERNAL LED LIGHT AVAILABLE IN: 40L - 60L - 80L CAPACITY
PRI2
237
The Smart Choice. www.primusaustralia.com.au
If you’re thinking of buying a high performance Fridge/Freezer, and want value for money with unique features – look no further than the Series III Fridge/Freezer from Primus. The Primus® Series III has all the features you would expect from a top of the range unit and much more. Clever features like a door open alarm, an internal LED light and wireless remote temperature read out means worry-free refrigeration while you’re out tackling the extreme. Powered by the revolutionary Polar Compressor and backed by a 3 year Australia wide warranty, the Primus® Series III really is the intelligent choice for the smart buyer. For your nearest stockist or for more information on the Primus range and accessories call Primus on 1300 657 022.
PRIMUS® SERIES III 60L FRIDGE/FREEZER. RRP. $1199.
Includes wireless remote temperature read out.
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Primus Ad1 (Fridge).indd 1 29/05/12 2:25 PM
4 | Go Camping Australia
Cont
ents
46
26 54
Shout It!
10 Send your letters in and WIN!
Events
11 What’s on Meet the locals at these Outback events.
By Lee Mylne
Update
12 Outdoor news from around Australia. By Kerry Heaney
Quick Getaways
14 Short breaks Only got a weekend spare?
Here’s where to go.
By Lee Mylne
Through My Eyes
16 An endless horizon This is a land where cattle and
kangaroos outnumber the humans. Out
here people are addicted to wide open
spaces, not merely coping with the
remote landscape but thriving on it.
By Ewen Bell
Remote
20 Cornered in the Outback Explore where NSW, SA and
Queensland collide in a jumble of
wire fences.
By Briar Jensen
Ancient
26 Carved by time WA’stopfiveancientrockformations.
By Emma George
Drive
30 Through the red heart If taking a road trip is a great Australian
dream, then driving from Darwin to
Alice Springs through some of the
nation’s most spectacular country
in a camper, complete with all the
mod-cons, is the ideal way to make it
come true.
By Ingrid Sanders
Enjoy
38 Hitting a high note Two weekends per year, visitors
to Undara Volcanic National Park
experience an eruption of song for
Opera in the Outback.
By Kara Murphy
Explore
42 Oasis in the centre Ormiston Gorge is a quiet oasis in NT’s
Red Centre.
By Heidrun Rodach
Timeslide
46 Back o’ Bourke History strewn riverside camping in NSW.
By Lee Atkinson
4 | Go Camping Australia
04-05 _Contents.indd 4 29/05/12 2:29 PM
Go Camping Australia | 5
30
Walk
50 Outback beauty A cheeky Willie Wagtail hopped around
us as we set up camp, while a red-capped robin watched from a branch, a more respectable distance away in the stunning landscape of Arkaroola, SA.
By Barbara and Kevin Weimer
Discover
54 More stars on the horizon Stars shine at Charleville, in
Queensland’s mulga-rich south west Outback region, day and night.
By Kara Murphy
Top 10
58 Top Outback camps Outback icons you won’t
want to miss. By Lee Atkinson
Go Fish
62 Outback meets the sea Spinifex and red sand meet turquoise bays
and white beaches in the Nullarbor, WA. By Martin Auldist
Camper Trailer Review
66 Small on size, big on options Ever looked longingly at a camper
trailer but thought it would be all too much for your soft roader to cope with? Conqueror Australia’s new UEV-310 could be the answer.
By Kerry Heaney
Tent Review
70 Pitch pronto Rapid pitch touring tents, such as the
new Companion Exo Lite 300, are a
great option for those with a 4WD
who want a comfortable tent with a
minimum of fuss.
By Lee Atkinson
Need to Know
74 Remote area survival kit 10 things you need when heading off
the beaten track.
By Lee Atkinson
Dine
76 Winter warmer pies Avoidfiddlingandfussingasthesunis
setting the bugs are biting, just pull out
a pie!
By Julie Bishop and Regina Jones
4WD Techniques
79 Top take off tips Travelling light or taking the tribe,
choose your kit carefully for a
top trip.
By Mark Allen
Wildlife Watch
82 Outback critters Small creatures in a big land.
By Lee Mylne and Len Zell
Go Camping Australia | 5
Gear to Go
84 Top new gear Just what you need for your next
outdoor adventure. By Kerry Heaney
Photo Smart
86 Chemistry of colour Make your images pop with colour. By Danielle Lancaster
Holidays and Horror Days
88 Just deserts While every environment has the
potential to harm the innocent traveller, deserts are the setting where the threat is barely veiled behind stark beauty.
By David McGonigal
04-05 _Contents.indd 5 29/05/12 2:30 PM
6 | Go Camping Australia
Go Camping Australia is distributed through newsagents and camping stores across Australia. Recommended retail price A$6.95. Annual subscription A$33 includes postage within Australia and GST. Distribution by Gordon and Gotch. Editorial and photographic contributions welcomed. Disks, transparencies and self-addressed stamped envelopes are required.
The publisher takes no responsibility for the views expressed in articles or advertisements herein. The publisher could not possibly ensure that each advertisement published in the magazine complies with the Trade Practices Act. While every endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.
Print Post approval No. PP437181/10.
Front Cover: Home Valley Station, The Kimberley, Western Australia. Photo courtesy of Home Valley Station.
PublisherMichael Vink
EditorKerry Heaney E: [email protected]
Advertising ManagerGeorgina Chapman T: (07) 3334 8007
Graphic DesignersRichard Locke, Wendy Deng, Matt Limmer
ProofreaderKaren Belik
ContributorsMark AllenLee AtkinsonMartin AuldistEwen BellEmma GeorgeBriar Jensen
Regina Jones & Julie Bishop
Danielle Lancaster
David McGonigal
Kara Murphy
Lee Mylne & Len Zell
Heidrun RodachIngrid SandersBarbara & Kevin Weimer
Published ByVINK Publishing ABN 3107 478 5676 Bi-Monthly
Head Office: 38-40 Fisher St, East Brisbane Q 4169
Postal: PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba Q 4102
T: (07) 3334 8000 F: (07) 3391 5118
Tikkina 2
Tikka 2 XPTikka 2 Plus
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CORE
NEW PETZL COREUSB rechargeable and programmable battery
www.petzl.com.au www.spelean.com.au for stockists
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HANDS-FREE LIGHTING. FIND MORE HOURS IN EACH DAY.
6 _Pubdetails.indd 6 30/05/12 11:03 AM
COM
3943
IntroducIng the AquAcube® Logic cAmp Shower.
COM3943_Go_Camping_Ad(Aquacube_logic).indd 2 1/03/12 3:53 PM
7_PrimusAustralia 1.indd 1 29/05/12 2:33 PM
Now opeN. The largesT
collecTioN of wildflowers
oN earTh.
Wildflowers, Wooleen Station. Just one of the many extraordinary experiences you can enjoy in WA. For detailed itineraries, wildflower locations and to plan your trip, visit westernaustralia.com/wildflowers
WA Tourism_DPS.indd 1 29/05/12 2:35 PM
Now opeN. The largesT
collecTioN of wildflowers
oN earTh.
Wildflowers, Wooleen Station. Just one of the many extraordinary experiences you can enjoy in WA. For detailed itineraries, wildflower locations and to plan your trip, visit westernaustralia.com/wildflowers
WA Tourism_DPS.indd 2 29/05/12 2:35 PM
Where’s baby?Returning to camp
from a morning
scuba diving trip I
found my wife sitting
alone. Where’s Sarah (our 6
month-old baby) I enquired? Oh that
woman camping over there asked if
she could take her for a walk. Do you
think I did the right thing? Thankfully
she returned with our precious first
born plus her husband gave us a feed
of whiting as well. Experiences like this
can only happen when camping.
Graeme Galvin, Warabrook, NSW
CongratulationsGraeme Galvin has won a recipe book
and a range of Super Sprout fruit and
vegetable powders in 150g tubs valued
at $150 for his letter.
HENLEY ON TODD REGATTA, NT Enjoy the fun from under the
shade of gum trees on the edge
of the dry Todd River bed – or
‘float’ your own ‘boat’ in the
race itself – at the world’s first
and only waterless regatta with
a load of fun events. Held on
August 19 in Alice Springs.
www.henleyontodd.com.au
From the EditorPack your bags and brace for the bull dust, we’re going Outback with this edition.
We’ve scoured Australia for the best Outback options, the hidden secrets and the must-does. Use this edition as your guide for exploring Australia’s Outback and you won’t be sorry.
After ten years editing Go Camping Australia it’s time for me to move on. It’s been a blast travelling with you around Australia and a privilege to share the many wonderful destinations this country offers.
Thank you for the many letters sharing your opinions, interests, compliments and comments, which I have received over the years. It’s been a pleasure knowing you and I hope your passion for the great outdoors continues.
Enjoy, Kerry Heaney Editor [email protected]
Mat
t Scu
rfiel
d
ViewpointYour Say
Write in and winShare your camping
experience and you could
win an Outdoor Connection Weekender tent valued
at $299.
The Weekender tent finished
with the highest score in
the ‘What to buy’ section
of the CHOICE 2011 tent
comparison and is perfect for
those weekend getaways! It
boasts large front and rear
doors, floor to ceiling inner
windows plus Ventraflow panels on both sides to allow cross-flow of air low down where you
sleep, keeping you comfortable on those hot summer nights. The front and rear awnings can
be erected with three adjustable poles and the unique Hornet Pole system gives exceptional
headroom and internal space. A simple addition of Optional Awning side walls gives a proper all
weather awning area not found on other dome tents.
The Weekender is part of Outdoor Connection’s Resort Range of tents which also includes
the Bedarra and Heron (two room tents) and the three room Brampton tent. Be the
envy of the camping ground in your Weekender tent! RRP $299. Further information at
www.outdoorconnection.com.au or call 07 3715 8400.
Send your letters in to [email protected] by June 30 for a chance to win the tent.
CONNECTION
Have your say and WIN!
10 | Go Camping Australia
10-12 _News_Events_Viewpoint.indd 10 29/05/12 2:41 PM
Go Camping Australia | 11
BOULIA CAMEL RACES, QLDThe Outback town of Boulia almost bursts at the seams as about 3000 people arrive for the Boulia Camel Races (July 13-15). Camel rides, sky-diving, belly dancers, market stalls and children’s entertainment make it a family affair with silver and gold cup races on Sunday. www.outbacknow.com.au
LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL FESTIVAL, NSWHeld over four days (July 26-29), events include the Opal Queen Black Ball, Opal & Gem Festival, trade shows, entertainment and a jewellery competition all in the Outback mining town of Lightning Ridge. www.lightningridgeopalfestival.com.au
PICHI RICHI RAILWAY, SALeave your car and tent behind for the day and
take a trip on the historic Pichi Richi Railway,
which operates regular heritage train journeys
on the oldest remaining section of the famous
narrow-gauge old Ghan railway. Trains run
between Quorn, in South Australia’s Flinders
Ranges, and Port Augusta. www.prr.org.au
Events
MOWANJUM FESTIVAL, WA Experience the art and culture of the Western
Kimberley’s Worrorra, Ngarinyin and
Wunumbal people at the Mowanjum art and
culture centre, outside Derby, on July 12. See
more than 100 Indigenous performers, boab nut
carving, didgeridoo workshops and corroborees
plus the region’s unique Wandjina art.
www.mowanjumarts.com
WALHALLA VINTER LJUSFEST, VICFor the whole of August, Walhalla Historic
Township is transformed by the Vinter Ljusfest,
the Swedish tradition of celebrating winter with
lights, sound and images. Light shows run every
night from 6.30pm until 9.30pm, and other
special events are held. www.visitwalhalla.com
All aboard for the world’s most unusual regattaCamels are just one of the attractions at the Boulia Camel Races
Walhalla is transformed by light and sound during Ljusfest
Corroboree at the Mowanjum Festival
Pichi Richi Railway
Cou
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Tou
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NT
Phot
o: ©
SAT
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Lee
Myl
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What’s onWords: Lee Mylne
Share fun with the locals at these Outback events
10-12 _News_Events_Viewpoint.indd 11 29/05/12 2:42 PM
12 | Go Camping Australia
Update
Make your markKoomurri Aboriginal Centre has opened
at Echo Point in the Blue Mountains.
Guests to the centre are invited to make
their mark with ochre paint on the centre’s
welcoming wall and participate in interactive
didgeridoo performances. Cultural talks
by local indigenous presenters teach
visitors about the use of tools and bush
materials by Aboriginal tribal groups from
across Australia and traditional dances are
performed every hour on the hour. The
centre’s art gallery also showcases a rich
diversity of art. More information at
www.koomurriaboriginalcentre.com.au
Save a tree They provide us with shade, shelter and scenic views so it makes sense to get involved in National Tree Day on Sunday 29 July to help inspire a healthy, happy, green community. Planet Ark spokesperson Rebecca Gilling says that National Tree Day is a great day to get outside and have fun while doing something good for the local environment. Find out more at www. treeday.planetark.org or call 1300 88 5000
Show goes onShowcasing the latest for holidaymakers and road travellers, the Queensland Caravan, Camping and Touring Holiday Show will set up camp between June 6 and 12 at Brisbane’s iconic RNA Showgrounds in areas unaffected by the current redevelopment. The show will feature nearly 300 exhibitors showcasing the latest innovations, services and destinations, along with informative and entertaining seminars and displays. Visitors to this year’s show will also have the opportunity to win a caravan, complete with a tinnie and outboard motor.
Tag along to Corner Country Explore Corner Country where three
states meet in safety and with company on
a Travel West’s new 4WD Tag Along tours.
Personally guided by Travel West’s owners
Graham and Debbie Reid, the seven-night
tag along tours depart Charleville in the
south west Queensland Outback for a
week-long adventure taking in Birdsville,
the Channel Country, Simpson Desert,
Innamincka and the Corner Country – where
South Australia, New South Wales and
Queensland meet. The tour finishes with two
nights based at Tibooburra – “the capital of
the Corner Country” – a tiny Outback town
which has long attracted artists fascinated
by the desert, including Clifton Pugh, Russell
Drysdale and Rick Amor.
According to Graham, the tag along tours
are ideal for relatively new 4WD owners – or
those who would like to get off the beaten
track, with the back-up of experienced
guides in an escort vehicle. Tours are
scheduled for May 24, June 29, July 19 and
August 19. For more information call
1800 654 541, (07) 4654 3155 or email [email protected]
Seeking cloud forest wildlifeEarthwatch Australia’s new research
project ‘Wildlife of the Cloud Forests’ is
calling for volunteers to work with scientists
to understand the impacts of climate change
on the wildlife inhabiting Australia’s World
Heritage rainforest in North Queensland.
Richard Gilmore, Executive Director,
Earthwatch Australia says volunteers are
needed to conduct surveys at different
altitudes from sea level to 1,400 metres
and help spot and sometimes catch birds,
reptiles, frogs and mammals. “It’s a rare
opportunity to escape to this beautiful,
remote area to observe native animals
in their natural environment and make a
difference,” says Gilmore.
The first Wildlife of the Cloud Forests team
kicks off on August 5 and runs through until
August 19, with a second team to follow on
October 28. To sign up call Earthwatch on (03) 9682 6828 or visit earthwatch.org.au
Outdoornews from around Australia
Words: Kerry Heaney
10-12 _News_Events_Viewpoint.indd 12 29/05/12 2:43 PM
Where will your next camping trip take you - weekend getaway or a
once in a lifetime adventure? Tyres are usually the last thing you think about when planning your trip but can be the first thing you worry about when you head off. Will you get a puncture, flat tyre or blow out at speed? So what should you consider when choosing your next set of tyres for your four-wheel drive or SUV?
Choose an aftermarket tyreOriginal tyres fitted to new vehicles are made to the vehicle manufacturers specifications and generally built with a passenger construction. The result could be a compromise on the tyres
Tyres play such an important role in your car safety, when heading out on a trip, as they bear the entire weight of your vehicle and its contents. You need the right peace of mind that you’re getting the right traction on the road so your car can steer, brake and accelerate.
performance and life as they can be more easily damaged. Light truck constructed tyres are stronger and offer more puncture resistance, load carrying capacity, extra tread and wear and off-road grip.When considering tyres you need to consider what construction is going to best suit where you are going to drive.
How to choose your CoopersA/T3 - The new Cooper Discoverer A/T3 offers a direct original equipment replacement, in a light truck construction, for some of the most popular four-wheel drive vehicles on the market today. The A/T3 utilises a balanced combination of technology, compounding and design to
produce a quality tyre that will perform well in nearly all types of terrain.
S/TMAXX - The new S/TMAXX arrives after three years of testing in Australia’s outback and introducing for the first time in an all-terrain tyre, Cooper’s proven Armor-Tek3 carcass construction. There is now a tyre specifically constructed and designed to thrive in the harshest conditions Australia has to offer while still offering great on-road characteristics.
STT - The STT is for the driver who wants a serious tyre with the grip and puncture resistance to drive the most serious off-road conditions. Featuring Cooper’s Armor-Tek3 carcass construction, the STT is now even 25% stronger in the sidewall and still 2.5 times more resistant to tearing.
Australia’s largest range of 4WD tyresIt doesn’t matter where you’re driving, highway to the harsh off-road, Cooper Tires has your 4WD or SUV covered.
Authorised DealersCooper Tires are only available from authorised Cooper Tire dealers. To find the dealer closest to you visit the locator on the website.
For your FREE tyre guide and more information about the Cooper Tires range visit www.coopertires.com.au or call 1300 COOPER
STTA/T3 S/TMAXX70% road & sand30% dirt & mud
50% road & sand50% dirt & mud
20% road & sand80% dirt & mud
S/TMAXX - designed for more demanding off-road use but great on-road characteristics.
A/T3 - designed for the occasional off road use but more time on road.
STT - designed for the serious off-roader with all the protection.
What you need to consider when choosing your next set of 4WD tyres
^1
^1 Australia Registered Design No. 334293
^2
^2 Australia Registered Design No. 334885
Go Camping 2012 (Cooper).indd 1 28/05/2012 9:27:16 AM
Exclusive Tyre Distributors.indd 1 29/05/12 2:47 PM
14 | Go Camping Australia
BreaksShort
Words: Lee Mylne
PERTH GETAWAYDryandra Woodland, near Narrogin and Williams, 165km
south east of Perth in the Golden Outback region, is home to
Western Australia’s state mammal emblem, the numbat, as
well as other animals such as red-tailed phascogales, woylies,
tammar wallabies, kangaroos, echidnas and brushtail possums.
Take a walk through the eucalypt woodland and watch for birds,
including tawny frogmouths and the mound-building mallee fowl.
Barna Mia, an animal sanctuary inside Dryandra Woodland, runs
guided nocturnal tours at sunset. There are walking and cycling
trails from 1km to 27km, for all fitness levels. One of the most
interesting is the Ochre Trail, which describes the Nyoongar
culture of the area. The Congelin campground has toilets, picnic
tables and wood barbecues – but you need to take your own wood
and drinking water. No dogs allowed. The campground operates
on a first come–first served basis. Fees are $7 per night for adults,
$5 concession and $2 for children under 16.
www.dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds
DARWIN GETAWAYThe picturesque Douglas River, rejuvenating thermal springs and abundant wildlife are some of the things that make the Tjuwaliyn (Douglas) Hot Springs Park a great getaway. The park is owned by the Wagiman people who jointly manage it with the Parks and Wildlife Commission. It is an important place for women’s business ceremonies and may sometimes be closed for ceremonies. The Park is 200km south of Darwin on the Old Stuart Highway scenic route from Adelaide River (the last 7km into Tjuwaliyn is a gravel road). Swimming is best in the cooler pools about 200m either side of the camp ground; be aware that some parts of the river are very hot. The camping area – which has areas for caravans, but no power – is large, with pit toilets, barbecues, firewood, picnic tables and water. Camping fees are $6.60 for adults, $3.30 for children 5-15 years or $15.40 for a family.
www.nretas.nt.gov.au
MELBOURNE GETAWAYCamping in the snow without having to
pitch your own tent makes for a great
getaway in Victoria’s High Country. Mt
Stirling’s Alpine Winter Camp, at 1500m
elevation, has a central tepee for dining and
socialising around the pot belly stove, seven
four-man tents on raised, insulated platforms
and kitchen facilities. Mt Stirling is 230km from
Melbourne, and in ski season (June to October) has
60km of cross country trails. You will need to walk or ski
your supplies (including sleeping bag) and personal equipment in (or you can pre-order
food supplies). The camp is available for individual and group hire and weekend back
country ski tours are also available. Tents are tall enough to stand up in and have an
area for equipment storage, together with stretchers, insulated underlay and warm
fibre-pile blankets. The cost is $120 per night with a two day minimum on weekends
(Friday–Sunday).
www.stirling.au.com
Quick Getaways
Only got a weekend spare? Here’s where to go
Walking and cycling trails for all levels of fitness. Camping in the snow at Mt Stirling Alpine Winter Camp.
Soaking it up at Tjuwaliyn
Hot Springs Park
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14 _QuickGetaways.indd 14 29/05/12 2:48 PM
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16 | Go Camping Australia16 | Go Camping Australia
HorizonAn endless
Words and photos: Ewen Bell
This is a land where cattle and
kangaroos outnumber the
humans. Out here people are
addicted to wide open spaces,
not merely coping with the
remote landscape but thriving
on it. That sense of an endless
horizon, an unpolluted sky and
the oldest rocks on the planet.
A few miles outside of Coober
Pedy the locals gather to watch
the sunset, to watch the ochre
and pink hues of the earth get
drenched in a sea of yellow.
This is a powerful landscape yet
richly subtle, possessing just
enough people to give a voice
to its beauty. Sometimes these
are the voices of Indigenous
artists, sometimes they are
cattle ranchers, sometimes they
are bush pilots. This photo essay
shares their voice from the air
and the land.
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18 | Go Camping Australia18 | Go Camping Australia
Main Photo: Escarpment above Baines River (NT)1: Desert flora in the Red Centre (NT)2: Mt Sonders at Dawn (NT)3: Stockmen at Home Valley (WA)4: The Junk Yard at Marree Station (SA)5: Last light at Parachilna (SA)
2
1
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20 | Go Camping Australia
Corneredin the Outback Words and photos: Briar Jensen
T ibooburra – At the Edge of the Big Effin Desert says the bumper sticker
for the Tibooburra Hotel, aka the Two Storey Hotel. At 335km from
Broken Hill in far north west NSW, Tibooburra is a welcome relief from
its desert surrounds.
Meaning ‘Heap of Rocks’ in the local Aboriginal language, the huge, round
granite boulders that define the town stand out like the proverbial dog’s balls
from the vast flat plains that encircle them.
The boulders provide a stunning natural backdrop to Granites Motel
and Caravan Park where guests gather for happy hour around a barbeque.
With a population of about 150, two pubs and a National Parks Office,
Tibooburra is a great place to re-provision or leave the caravan for a jaunt
to Cameron Corner.
John and Mavis Jackson, owners of Granites, also run TJ’s Roadhouse,
which sells everything from petrol and provisions to clothes and books. (A
quick peruse of the titles reveals The Australian Motorcycle Atlas, The Grey Nomads Guidebook and Sex in your Seventies.)
Mavis was born in Tibooburra but John arrived in 1968. “You’re not a local
until you’ve got 16 relatives buried in the cemetery,” he says, before showing
us his talking Corella, which shakes hands and rolls in a tin can.
We’ve arrived in Tibooburra from Broken Hill, along the Silver City
Highway. But don’t be fooled by the name – the road is a patchwork of
black bitumen, white stone, grey gravel and red dust. I’m glad I’m not driving.
I’ve left that to Geoff Spangler, guide of our Tri State Safaris 4WD
adventure, which means I can sit back and enjoy the scenery. (Tri State
Safaris offer tag-along options. See Fact Box for details.)
Substantial recent rain has transformed the landscape from barren rocky
desert into bourgeoning scrubland. Gnarled bushes and stunted trees cover
the ground like a knobbly astrakhan carpet in shades of olive-grey and blue-
green. Ephemeral lakes, no longer mirages, glisten in the distance.
Families of wild goats graze in fenceless paddocks, kangaroos bound
across the road in front of us and emus race comically beside our vehicle,
tails bouncing like huge fluffy dusters.
We stayed overnight at Packsaddle Roadhouse, about halfway between
Broken Hill and Tibooburra, which offers caravan and camping facilities along
with a welcome beer. The corrugated iron restaurant, housing an enormous
fireplace rescued from an old shearing shed, drips with pastoral memorabilia.
Enroute from Packsaddle to Tibooburra we stopped at Milparinka,
once a thriving gold mining town with stately municipal buildings and four
pubs. When the gold ran out it was all but
abandoned and remained a ghost town until
rescued by a group of local volunteers.
The remaining sandstone buildings of
the courthouse, police station and gaol
cells have been restored and turned
into a heritage precinct. A visitor centre
operates between March and October,
manned by volunteers who live-in on a
three-week roster. They’re a wealth of
local knowledge and history, and always
good for a chat.
Nearby is Depot Glen, where Charles
Sturt’s expedition was trapped by drought
for six months in 1845. A hot breeze
rustling through ancient gums mimics the
sound of trickling water, but the riverbed
is parched. James Poole’s grave, Sturt’s
second-in-command, lies under a tree
bearing his initials, testament to the harsh
conditions.
We quench our thirsts on arrival in
Tibooburra at the Family Hotel, which
despite its name has more naked butts than
a buck’s party. But don’t be put off, they’re
just part of the hotel’s famous murals,
painted by artists including Clifton Pugh
and Russel Drysdale.
Where NSW, SA and Queensland collide in a jumble of wire fences
1
2
5
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Go Camping Australia | 21
1: Passing through the dingo fence.
2: Driving across a clay pan.
3: Roadside art in Corner Country.
4: Ruins at Milparinka.
5: The sand is a vibrant terracotta.
6: Granites Caravan Park.
7: Flying Doctor mural in the Family Hotel, Tibooburra.
3
7
4
6
Remote
20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 21 29/05/12 3:03 PM
22 | Go Camping Australia
Along with the nudes are humorous works by
Broken Hill artist Howard William Steer depicting
the ‘Flying Doctor’. A rendition of the dog fence is
being painted as we drink, by Roxanne Minchin,
whose late husband Eric Minchin’s work also
adorns the walls.
Roxanne’s painting comes to life the next day
as we strike out for Cameron Corner through
Sturt National Park. Crossing a red clay pan dust
billows in our wake, coating roadside plants – and
our nostrils – in fine pink dust.
The 5000km dingo fence, originally built to
control rabbits, stretches to the horizon like a
line scratched across a wet ochre canvas. The
dirt is such a vibrant shade of burnt orange that
Eric Minchin had to bottle it to prove to his US
exhibitors it was actually the colour he depicted
it in his paintings.
The approach to Cameron Corner is a jumble
of wire fences and we duck through South
Australia before veering right into Queensland.
A metal plaque atop a white post marks the exact
intersection of NSW, SA and Queensland, and our
destination – the middle of nowhere.
Fenn Miller, owner of Cameron Corner Store
and pub, says people come here for all sorts of
reasons. Some just
pass through enroute
between Birdsville and
Innamincka, while others, like
the group of dirt-bikers we meet
from Coffs Harbour, come specifically
to ‘slap the post’.
It’s a popular spot for New Year’s Eve too,
says Fenn, when visitors can celebrate in three
time zones and four states – the fourth being
inebriation.
Returning to Tibooburra takes us past Olive
Downs Lookout, with a view across the Jump Ups,
flat-topped ridges that protrude starkly from the
jibber plains. At South Myers Tank, an isolated
dam, flocks of birds, from galahs to pelicans, titter
in the trees and wade in the water – an Outback
oasis teeming with life.
We head back towards Broken Hill the next
day, stopping in with Matt and Zanna Gale at
Pincally Station to watch their three daughters
do a School of the Air lesson. They offer gorgeous
B&B rooms in the 100-year-old homestead and
a self contained cottage, but we push on, visiting
Ruth Sandow, a passionate promoter of Outback
tourism, at Pimpara Lake, a 44,000ha property
1: Roxanne Minchin paints at the Family Hotel, Tibooburra.
2: The dingo fence.
3: Emus dash across the track.
4: Coffs Harbour dirt bikers ‘slapping the post’ at Cameron Corner.
1 3
2
4
Remote
Families of wild goats graze in fenceless paddocks, kangaroos bound across the road in front of us and emus race comically beside our vehicle, tails bouncing like huge fluffy dusters
that offers lakeside camping when there is
sufficient water in their ephemeral creeks.
At Mount Gipps Station owners John and Kym
Cramp dish up lashings of country hospitality after
a tour of their property, which includes old mine
shafts, Aboriginal engravings, a gorgeous display
of Sturt Desert Peas and, atop Sunset Hill, a 360
degree view of the country we’ve just covered.
20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 22 29/05/12 3:03 PM
Go Camping Australia | 23
Furphys
Go Caravan & Camping Guide – Vol 2
aVailable nowTo obtain a copy via mail order please contact [email protected] or send a cheque for $14.95, made payable to Vink Publishing, PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba QLD 4102. Price includes postage within Australia.
Furphy’s Foundry SalesPty Ltd
Quality Camp Oven Range
FURPHY’S FOUNDRY SALES PTY LTDDrummond Road, Shepparton VIC 3630 Phone: (03) 5831 2777 Web: www.furphyfoundry.com.au
Discover endless cooking options with the Furphy camp oven range.
20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 23 29/05/12 3:04 PM
24 | Go Camping Australia
1
21: Milparinka Heritage Precinct.
2: Spangler talks about the local geology.
Fact File Getting thereCameron Corner is located about 500km from Broken Hill and 140km from Tibooburra, through Sturt National Park. Unless you want to stay at Cameron Corner, leave your van in Tibooburra and take a day trip to Cameron Corner, doing a loop back through Middle Road and Jump Up Loop Road (both 4WD only). Even light rain can affect some roads so check for road closures on (08) 8082 6660 or via the NSW RTA Live Traffic website http://livetraffic.rta.nsw.gov.au
Tri State Safaris offer tag-along options, where you drive in convoy with their coach or 4WD. This is a great idea if you’ve never driven in the Outback before or just want the support of fellow travellers and a knowledgeable local guide. www.tristate.com.au
When to goTibooburra often records the hottest temperature in NSW, so it’s best to visit in autumn, winter or spring, from March to October.
Where to campPacksaddle Roadhouse has caravan and camping sites and rooms with shared facilities – www.packsaddleroadhouse.com.au
Granites Motel and Caravan Park has caravan and camping sites and motel rooms – Ph (08) 8091 3305
Cameron Corner Store has caravan and camping sites and rooms with shared facilities – Ph (08) 8091 3872
Milparinka township has caravan and camping sites. Call into the Heritage Visitor Information Centre for details.
Pimpara Lake Station has shearers’ quarters and lakeside bush camping sites – Ph (08) 8091 2524
Pineview Station has a self-contained cottage, shearers’ quarters and bush camping sites – Ph (08) 8091 2513
Theldarpa Station has bush camping sites and power for caravans – Ph (08) 8091 3576
Pincally Station has bush camping sites, B&B rooms in the homestead and a self contained cottage – Ph (08) 8091 3571
Mount Gipps Station has caravan and camping sites, shearers’ quarters and two cottages – www.mountgippsstation.com.au
More informationOutback NSW Tourism – www.visitoutbacknsw.com.au Corner Country – www.outbacknsw.com.au Sturt National Park – www.environment.nsw.gov.au/nationalparks
Hay
Paro
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Saxby
Cape
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Eyre
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Bu
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Bu
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Barcoo
Julia
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River
Yanda
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Cuttaburra
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Campaspe
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Com
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Macquarie
DIAMANTINA
Namoi
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BU
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Mac
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Daw
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CO
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Leichhardt
Balonne
Riv
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Georgina
Norm
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Condamine
RIVER
Lake Dalrymple
Lake Kajarabie
LAKEEYRE
NORTH
LAKE
TORRENS
LAKEFROME
Lake EyreSouth
Lake Blanche
IslandLagoon
Sylvester Lake
LakeCallabonna
Bilpa MoreaClaypan
Lake Gregory
Lake Yamma Yamma(Mackillop)
Lake Galilee
LakeHart
PernattyLagoon
LakeMachattie
LakeCadibarrawirracanna
LakeMaraboon
LakeBuchanan
Lake Etamunbanie
SaltLake
Moonda Lake
LakeYounghusband
Peery Lake
Lake Wyara
Lake Mulapula
Terewah OrNarran Lake
Lake Wivenhoe
689
438
944
940
300
859
833
387
330304
472
415
997
750
665
1374
1168 1586
1174
1259
1056
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Saumarez Reef
Marion Reef
Osprey Reef
Frederick Reef
Bougainville Reef
Herald Cays
Lihou Reef and Cays
Holmes Reef
Flinders Reefs
War
rior
Ree
f
GROOTE EYLANDT
FRASER ISLAND
MORNINGTONISLAND
Hinchinbrook Island
Vanderlin Island
Moa (Clarke) I
Bribie Island
Marchinbar Island
Bentinck Island
Badu (Mulgrave) I
Prince Of Wales(Muralag) I
Saibai I
North Stradbroke Island
Raragala Island
Boigu I
Townshend Island
Magnetic Island
Great Palm Island
Great Keppel Island
Mabuiag I
Maria Island
Darnley(Erub) I
Murray Islands
Lady Elliott I
Green Island
West I
Whitsunday Island
Moreton Island
North Island
Guluwuru Island
Hayman IslandGloucester Island
Curtis I
Bremer Island
South Stradbroke I
Scawfell Island
Lizard Island
Dunk Island
Heron Island
Lloyd Bay
HERVEYBAY
Temple Bay
ArnhemBay
HALIFAX BAY
BROAD SOUND
Caledon Bay
Port Clinton
Weymouth Bay
LIMMEN BIGHT
MelvilleBay Port Musgrave
ALBATROSS BAY
Port Bradshaw
ShelburneBay
Newcastle Bay
Rockingham Bay
SHOALWATER BAY
Bowling Green Bay
G U L F
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C A R P E N T A R I A
PRINCESSCHARLOTTE
BAY
Moreton Bay
Cape York
Hay Point
Cape Byron
Sandy Cape
Cape Arnhem
Waddy Point
Abbot Point
Cape Moreton
Cape Clinton
Duyfken Point
Cape Beatrice
Cape Keerweer
Cape Flattery
Lookout Point
Cape Melville
Cape Direction
Cape Grenville
Cape Wilberforce
Upsta
rt Bay
Saraji
Keppel Bay
Port Curtis
CURTIS CHANNEL
Horn (Narupai) I
Milyakburra
Cape Tribulation
MtRobe
Mt Norna
Mt Abbot
Mt Elliot
Mt Walker
Mt Hutton
Bald Hill
Mt Carter
Mt WilliamMt Hogarth
Mt Stewart
Mt Halifax
Mt Drummond
Mt Tabletop
Mt Drummond
Mt Finnigan
St Mary Peak
Consuelo PeakThree Sisters
Thornton Peak
Round MtnMt Booroondarra
Kerrs Table Mount
Bairds Table Mount
Bartle Frere
Mt Unbunmaroo(Black Mount)
Freeling Heights
Haddon Corner
Cameron Corner
Poeppel Corner
C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y
NORTHUMBERLAND
ISLANDS
Nebo
Eulo
Coen
Peak Downs
Repulse Bay
Flind
ers En
trance
G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F
G R E A T B A R R I E R R
E E F
Robinson River
Nelia
GumluClare
Laura
Tilpa
Garah
Hebel
Emmet
Comet
Wowan
Louth
Yaraka
Yetman
Marree
Anakie
Malbon
Quamby
Dalbeg
Morven
JundahBanana
Yaamba
Kynuna
Moomba
Bollon
Cracow
Moonie
Paluma
Ogmore
Byrock
Rowena
Carinda
Mingela
Dulacca
Adavale
Kinrola
Koumala
Duchess
Gilliat
Prairie
Bellata
Bonshaw
Thallon
Wyandra
Cheepie
Callide
Jericho
Morella
Carmila
Almaden
Pilliga
Beltana
Betoota
Kajabbi
Blinman
Kidston
Dajarra
CooladdiWestgate Guluguba
Yandaran
Newlands
Quambone
Enngonia
Isisford
Yalleroi
Corfield
Stamford
Forsayth
Daintree
Bedourie
McKinlay
Coolabah
Eromanga
Toompine
CoolataiCumborah
Windorah
Gwabegar
Nymboida
Pentland
Arrilalah
Goonyella
Maxwelton
Blackbull
Wanaaring
Rolleston
Port Alma
Middleton
Woodstock
Chillagoe
Urandangi
Greenvale
Condamine
Baryulgil
Meandarra
Lyndhurst
Gunpowder
Innamincka
Coppabella
Ravenswood
Hungerford
Nindigully
Kumbarilla
Glenmorgan
Mungallala
Stonehenge
Ilfracombe
Einasleigh
Birdsville
Burramurra
Yantabulla
Muttaburra
Abergowrie
Elura Mine
Parachilna
Tibooburra
Marlborough
Bogantungan
Mount Perry
St LawrenceBlair Athol
Mount Molloy
Weilmoringle
BalfesCreek
Fords Bridge
Torrens Creek
Gilbert River
Phosphate Hill
Mount Surprise
Lakeland
Burren Junction
SouthBlackwater
Olympic Dam
Captain Billy Landing
Andoom
Bambaroo
Homestead
Mount Coolon
GOWAN RA
PEAK RA
AUBU
RN R
A
MC
GR
EG
OR
RA
Palm Islands
Whitsunday Group
WELLESLEY ISLANDS
CUMBERLAND ISLANDS
SIR EDWARD PELLEW GROUP
Lindeman Group
TORRES STRAIT
CAPE YORKPENINSULA
GOVEPENINSULA
ENDEAVOUR STR
AIT
WESSEL IS
W
inchelsea I
Flinders Group
Capricorn Group
JER
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GR
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G U L F
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DARLING DOWNS
TIRARI DESERT
S I M P S O N D E S E R T
T A B L E L A N D
S T R Z E L E C K I
D E S E R T
S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T
Q U E E N S L A N D
Buckingham Bay
Port L
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Cumberland Channel
CAPRICORN CHANNEL
B A R K L Y
Isle Woodah
Bick
erton I
Centre I
RA
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RR
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Cork
Oban
Leura
Tongo
Mulka
Junee
Kimba
Cobham
Marqua
Waitan
Yakara
Teilta
Tilcha
Lerida
Iffley
Almora
Dunbar
Durrie
Soudan
Rokeby
Leumeah
Cowarie
Westlea
Retreat
Monkira
Jervois
Corinda
Barenya
UndillaCanobie
Vanrook
Clayton
LongtonTarbrax
Bulimba
Benmara
Merluna
Mahanewo
Tartulla
Koolatah
Yarrawin
Ranken
Caiwarro
Naryilco
Orientos
Trinidad
Glengyle
Surbiton
Cassilis
AnnitowaGeorgina
Downs
Burleigh
Morstone
Lorraine
Wondoola
Bowthorn Barwidgi
Inkerman
Etadunna
Humeburn
Arrabury
Eastmere
Wambiana
Lolworth
Toolebuc
Highbury
Drumduff
Yarraden
Bramwell
Innisvale
Arkaroola
Fort GreyBundaleer
Tobermory
Thylungra
Palparara Nandowrie
Connemara
Vergemont Peak Vale
Aberfoyle
Kamileroi
EsmeraldaRobinhood
Mittiebah
Lawn Hill
Bing Bong
Woolerina
Curnamona
Yancannia
Ambathala
Collabara
Lake Nash
Lyndhurst
Gallipoli
Seven Emu
Lakefield
Avon Downs
Tobermorey
Frankfield
Yelvertoft
Mootwingee
Nockatunga
Castlevale
Warbreccan
Coorabulka
Springvale
Lucy Creek
Ooratippra
Thorntonia
Claraville
Inverleigh Strathmore
Murnpeowie
Currawilla
YarrowmereChatsworth
Carandotta
Dalgonally
Wando Vale
Meadowbank
Armraynald
Alexandria
Strathburn
Moolawatana
Murra Murra
Durrandella
Breadalbane
Argadargada
Numil Downs
Riversleigh
Donors Hill
Delta Downs
TiltagoonahMulyungarie
Frome Downs
Moray Downs
Natal Downs
Malbon Vale
Saxby Downs
Bluff Downs
Maggieville
Wollogorang
MallapunyahSprings
Strathhaven
Violet Vale
Border Downs
Shelburne Bay
Mount Douglas
Thurloo Downs
Millers Creek
DynevorDowns
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo
Tarlton Downs
GregoryDowns
Saltbush Park
Austral Downs
Miranda Downs
Calvert Hills
Marina Plains
Batavia Downs
Lorella Spring
Mount Margaret
Kangaroo Hills
Abingdon Downs
Rutland Plains
Cordillo Downs
Mount Sturgeon
Chudleigh Park
Mount MulgraveMcArthur River
DavenportDowns
Mount Lyndhurst
Cresswell Downs
MountRavenswood
Diamantina Lakes
Roxborough Downs
Buckingham Downs
Mount Elsie
Augustus Downs
Mount Mulyah
Bulloo Downs
Galway Downs
Marion Downs
Glenormiston
Strathfillan
Nappa Merrie
Durham Downs
Mount Howitt
Barkly Downs
Westmoreland
Wrotham Park
Tara
Bell
Weipa
Miles
Tieri
Guyra
Urunga
Sarina
Bourke
Kyogle
Wondai
Howard
Aramac
Winton
Boulia
Cooroy
Wandoan
Capella
Gayndah
Wee Waa
Quilpie
Mossman
Clifton
Bonalbo
Ashford
Woomera
Baradine
Jandowae
Mitchell
Eidsvold
Theodore
Richmond
Silkwood
Dimbulah
Emu Park
Warialda
Wallumbilla
Bellingen
St George
Longreach
Gracemere
Cloncurry
Home Hill
Umbakumba
Numbulwar
Hope ValeKowanyama
Andamooka
Woolgoolga
Augathella
Barcaldine
Georgetown
Pormpuraaw
Dirranbandi
Tin Can Bay
Julia Creek
Roxby Downs
Collarenebri
White Cliffs
Esk
Giru
Oakey
Tambo
Bluff
Tiaro
Surat
Monto
Moura
Alpha
Tully
Texas
Iluka
Boonah
Uralla
Kilcoy
Yuleba
Injune
Taroom
Dysart
Marian
Ingham
Bamaga
Murgon
Tingha
Goondiwindi
Bingara
Babinda
Attunga
Manilla
Walgett
Glenden
Halifax
Croydon
Karumba
Aurukun
Gin Gin
Proston
Nanango
Maclean
Dorrigo
Barraba
Cardwell
Delungra
Thangool
Boggabri
NarrabriBundarra
Goodooga MungindiYelarbon
BlackallCalliope
Duaringa
Clermont
Seaforth
Cooktown
Yirrkala
Angurugu
Rubyvale
Baralaba
Childers
Yarraman
Jimboomba
Biggenden
Wilcannia
Coonamble
Bendemeer
Glenreagh
InglewoodKillarney
Hughenden
Normanton
Camooweal
Doomadgee
Goondiwindi
Nhulunbuy
Alyangula
HerbertonRavenshoe
Burketown
Springsure
Brewarrina Evans Head
Stanthorpe
Cunnamulla
Beaudesert
Millmerran
Pittsworth
Blackwater
Walkerston
Proserpine
Gordonvale
Borroloola
Woorabinda
Mundubbera
CrowsNest
Wallangarra
Leigh Creek
Mullumbimby
Charleville
Miriam Vale
Palm Island
Middlemount
AlstonvilleTenterfield
Mount Morgan
Finch Hatton
Ocean Shores
Thargomindah
Cecil Plains
Mount Larcom
Airlie Beach
Mount Garnet
Collinsville
Tannum Sands
Mission Beach
Lockhart River
Thursday Island
Hamilton Island
Lightning Ridge
Nambour
Ballina
Bargara
Ayr
Roma
Bowen
GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah
Chinchilla
Deepwater
Bushland Beach
Moree
Dalby
Yamba
Casino
Gatton
Gympie
Grafton
Warwick
Biloela
Emerald Yeppoon
Mareeba
SawtellGunnedah
Armidale
Inverell
Bongaree
Kingaroy
Deeragun
Atherton
Moranbah
Byron Bay
Innisfail
Mount Isa
Caboolture
Glen Innes
Maryborough
Murwillumbah
Port DouglasTrinity Beach
ChartersTowers
BUNDABERG
MACKAY
CAIRNS
LISMORE
GLADSTONE
CALOUNDRA
HERVEY BAY
ROCKHAMPTON
COFFS HARBOUR
NOOSA HEADS
TOOWOOMBA
MAROOCHYDORE
Deepwater
Deepwater
TOWNSVILLE
TWEED HEADS
IPSWICH
GOLD COAST
BRISBANE
Alpurrurulam
Wujal Wujal
Balgal Beach
Midge Point
Byfield
Agnes Water
Gununa
Misima I
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© Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
Remote
CaMeRon CoRneR
OZTENT
The OZTENT is considered by many as the best touring tent on the market today. It sets up easily in less than 30 seconds! Imagine driving all day and getting to your camp site late at night and setting up your tent. OZTENT makes it simple.Pack up is quick, just 30 SECONDS ! Available in a number of sizes with innovative options that make this tent a real pleasure to camp in. Exploring the unknown becomes possible whether you face harsh, dry conditions or massive downpours of rain.
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20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 24 29/05/12 3:05 PM
Go Camping Australia | 25
© Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
OZTENT
The OZTENT is considered by many as the best touring tent on the market today. It sets up easily in less than 30 seconds! Imagine driving all day and getting to your camp site late at night and setting up your tent. OZTENT makes it simple.Pack up is quick, just 30 SECONDS ! Available in a number of sizes with innovative options that make this tent a real pleasure to camp in. Exploring the unknown becomes possible whether you face harsh, dry conditions or massive downpours of rain.
The OZTENT is committed to go the distance. With Rip Stop Poly-Cotton Canvas and Heavy Duty PVC flooring, the OZTENT is ideal for both frequent and long term use. You won’t regret
the convenience, durability, comfort and ease of use this tent offers. Please visit our website or request an info kit to discover how the versatility of the OZTENT can best serve your camping needs.
Get an OZTENT today tosurvivE ThE ElEmENTs!
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20-25 _Remote_Cornered in the Outback.indd 25 29/05/12 3:05 PM
26 | Go Camping Australia
Carvedby time Words: Emma George
26 | Go Camping Australia
It’s taken millions of centuries to create the unusual beauty of Western Australia’s unique rock formations, some of which have only been discovered in recent decades.
Seeing the beauty and hearing the acoustics of Cathedral Gorge,
feeling the rough sandstone beehives, viewing the changing colours
of the Pinnacles at sunset, discovering crystals beneath the surface
and exploring ancient aboriginal rock art are Outback experiences
you will treasure.
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Go Camping Australia | 27
The Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park One of Western Australia’s most fascinating
landmarks and the ultimate place for an
Outback adventure is the Bungle Bungle
Range, in the World Heritage-listed
Purnululu National Park.
The 4WD trip in is just the start of the
journey, as once you arrive, a hidden world
of gorges and pools, surrounded rocks and
fan palms lie waiting to be explored.
If you are saving your dollars for a
helicopter flight, then this is the place to
splurge as it’s only from the air that you
can truly appreciate the size of the 350
million-year-old national park, covering
nearly 240,000 hectares.
The orange and black stripes of the
massive sandstone formations (which
took us so long to navigate by foot), looked
tiny from the air and it was only then we
could appreciate the true vastness and
extraordinary nature of the landscape.
Although there are many unique formations
in the Bungle Bungle Range, Cathedral
Gorge’s natural amphitheatre is a standout
with its astonishing geological formations
and amazing acoustics. The Gorge
is accessed via a moderate 4km
return trail through the sandstone
beehive formations.
Fact Box:Location: Purnululu
National Park is located in the north east of the Kimberly Region, approximately 300km from Kununurra.
Access: 4WD access only and the national park is open during the dry season (April– October).
Accommodation: Bungle Bungle Bush Camp (operated by East Kimberley Tours).
APT’s Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge, Walardi and Kurrajong campgrounds.
WA’s top five ancient formations
The Bungle Bungles are one of Western Australia’s most fascinating landmarks
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28 | Go Camping Australia
Ancient Wave Rock, Hyden The towering granite breaker of Wave Rock is one of Western Australia’s most recognisable attractions. The natural replica of an almost perfect wave immortalised in stone, stretches 100m and stands 15m high.
It’s believed this amazing formation of multi-coloured granite is more than 2,700 million years in the making.
Venture further into the surrounding landscape and you’ll discover a huge variety of geological features, many which are also the subject of fascinating indigenous dreamtime stories and the site of beautiful indigenous rock art.
A bushwalk around wave rock will reveal many native flowers and birds. During the spring, nature transforms the area into
a dazzling show of wildflowers, the most famous being a brilliant carpet of everlastings, which cover the land in pinks, whites and yellows.
Mount Augustus, Mount Augustus National Park As you drive along the red, spinifex laden, iron-rich
country, Mt Augustus dominates the arid shrubland
providing an amazing sight from over 100km away.
It’s no wonder you can see this geological marvel from
afar as it’s twice the size of Uluru and takes the title of
the world’s largest rock monolith.
Indigenous rock art decorates the caves at the
mountain’s base with the rock estimated to be 1,750
million years old.
If you’re an experienced hiker, the summit is a 12km
return journey but for an ideal photo opportunity,
Emu Hill Lookout (5km west of the park boundary) is
spectacular at sunset.
Mt Augustus has many changing faces and the best
way to view them is by taking the 49km circuit along
Burringurrah Drive. From here you can access rocky
creek gorges, caves, Aboriginal rock engravings, picnic
sites, walk trails and view a variety of wildlife.
Fact Box:Location: 3km from Hyden, a 4½ hour drive east from Perth.
Access: All year with premium wildflower viewing from August– November.
Accommodation: Wave Rock Caravan Park, local motels, farm stays and historic pubs.
Fact Box:Location: 850km
from Perth, midway
between the Great
Northern and
North West Coastal
highways.
Access: 2WD vehicles
permitted. Best visited
in cooler months April–
November.
Accommodation: Camping is not
permitted at the
national park. Visitors
can stay at Mount
Augustus Outback
Tourist Park or Cobra
Bangemall Inn.
Lake Cave is a stunning crystal wonderland
Mount Augustus is the world’s largest rock monolith
Wave Rock is the natural replica of an almost perfect wave
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Go Camping Australia | 29
The Pinnacles, Nambung National Park Easily accessible from Perth, the Pinnacles are one of Australia’s most unique landscapes. Thousands of incredible limestone pillars rise eerily out of the yellow quartz sand at Nambung National Park.
Driving around and wandering through the Pinnacles is a surreal experience. The formations vary in size from about 10cm to almost 4m tall and you can’t help but touch and feel your way around the wondrous spires.
The Pinnacles Desert is best seen at dawn or dusk when they cast long, strange shadows over the rippling yellow sand dunes. Although the desert teems with wildlife, most of the animals are nocturnal. You may see western grey kangaroos, emus and many sorts of reptiles and birds like black-shouldered kites hanging around the peculiar stones.
Caves, Margaret River Although renowned for its fine wines and
natural produce, the Margaret River region
houses some of Australia’s most unique and
stunning caves.
The sheer size and beauty of the caves,
which are adorned with dazzling crystals,
stalactites, stalagmites and underground
lakes, will take your breath away. Although
there are over 150 caves in the area, only a
few are open to the public.
Three of the best caves, Lake, Mammoth and
Jewel are easily accessible but be prepared to
tackle a few stairs if you want to explore the
depths of the caves.
Mammoth Cave is an impressive, gothic-like
cave, which is often visited by paleontologists
who come to unlock its secrets about the
region’s ancient past. The cave reveals a fascinating amount about local flora, fauna and climate. There are even fossilised remains of a Thylacine (Tasmanian tiger) and a Zygomaturas (a huge wombat-like creature).
Originally named the ‘Dawn of Creation’, and at 500m long and 30m deep, Mammoth Cave is truly spectacular especially in winter when the natural light bounces off the winter stream and cave formations.
Lake Cave is a stunning crystal wonderland, with a reflective lake inside the cave that mirrors the delicate formations above. The cave is renowned for its treasured ‘Suspended Table’, a massive column of calcite weighing in excess of five tonne, which hovers
a few centimetres above the lake.
Jewel Cave is Western Australia’s largest
show cave and one of its most spectacular.
It’s home to one of the longest straw
stalactites in any tourist cave in the world,
which hangs 5.4m from the ceiling. The
caverns of Jewel Cave sink to a depth of 42m
and stretch 1.9km.
Fact Box:Location: 245km north of Perth (near Cervantes).
Access: Year-round, with spectacular wildflowers blooming from August– October.
Accommodation: Caravan parks, motels, units.
More InformationFor further information about holidaying in Western Australia visit www.westernaustralia.com
Camping in Western Australia’s natural areas is a special experience. Selected campgrounds from across the state can now be booked online – visit www.dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds
Fact Box:Location: 275km south of Perth.
Access: Any time of the year. A Grand Tour Pass is available, allowing visitors access to all three caves for $48 per adult and $22 per child.
Accommodation: Caravan parks to five star lodgings.
The Pinnacles Desert is best seen at dawn or dusk
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30 | Go Camping Australia
1: Gosse Bluff, West MacDonnell Ranges, NT
2: BurleyRockHole,Litchfield National Park, NT
3: Katherine Gorge, Katherine, NT
4: Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), NT
I f taking a road trip is a great Australian
dream, then driving from Darwin to
Alice Springs through some of the
nation’s most spectacular country in a
camper, complete with all the mod-cons,
is the ideal way to make it come true.
We decided to take a week off, chill
out and explore the heart of our vast brown
land. It was a holiday unlike any other – jam
packed with amazing experiences, breathtaking
landscapes and colourful characters.
Our home for the next six days would be
a beloved Maui motor home. For a couple of
30-somethings, it was perhaps an unusual choice
for a holiday, but we were free, independent and
able to go wherever the wind took us.
Our only restriction was off-road driving as we
had the luxury model camper complete with toilet,
shower and mini-bar style fridge, rather than the
go-anywhere model.
And we had a plan. We’d tackle the 1,500km
of highway from Darwin to Alice, also known as
the Explorer’s Way, and visit some of the lesser-
known attractions along the way. Devils Marbles,
Daly Waters Pub, Barrow Creek and the Devils
Pebbles were all on the agenda. The Explorer’s
Way follows the route of John McDouall Stuart,
a famous Australian explorer who was the first
to traverse the continent in 1862 from Adelaide
to Darwin.
After a quick orientation at the Darwin depot,
we were both instantly amazed at how much the
good folk at Maui had packed into our van. It even
had air-conditioning, a godsend for the 30-plus
degree nights we were sure to encounter during
our visit to the red heart of Australia.
On the road in the Aussie Outback
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Go Camping Australia | 31
Red HeartThrough the
Words: Ingrid Sanders Photos: Tourism NT
Drive
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32 | Go Camping Australia
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Go Camping Australia | 33
One of our first stops on the road was at
Daly Waters Pub. It’s a famous landmark
in the NT. Located about 3km off
the track, otherwise known as the
Stuart Highway, it is a sight to see.
If you are on a mission to get to
your destination, it would be
easy to forgo a stop here. This
detour is one that many don’t
bother with, but my advice
is to take the turn off – it’s a
fabulous place to visit.
If you’ve been to Birdsville or
Barrow Creek, you’ll have a good
idea of what to find here, but this
little Outback pub is an icon in the
Territory and for good reason. Built in
1893 by early pioneers, life here would have
been tough, but today the quirky collection of
bank notes, coins, thongs, T-shirts and other
memorabilia takes pride of place, well, all over
this historic stone pub.
Even with the layers of dust, the collections
provide plenty to look at and chat about with
fellow travellers. I’m sure there have been many
visitors who have popped in for a quiet beer, only
to find themselves immersed in conversation with
one or two of the locals and fellow travellers, and
end up staying the night.
1: WangiFalls,LitchfieldNationalPark,NT
2: StandleyChasm,NT
3: ChambersPillar,NT
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The rivers and waterholes are filled to the
brim after recent rains and the barren eucalyptus trees have a
full head of hair again after a long dry season
Daly Waters Pub has a certain Outback charm,
a welcoming aura. Whether it is the array of
passport photos on the wall or the enchanting
lilt of the friendly Irish barman ready for a yarn,
I’m sure you’ll find yourself staying for more than
one beer at this pub.
A little further south at Dunmurra, we fuelled
up with diesel – at $1.75 a litre, our large and
rather empty fuel tank was replenished. But
even getting fuel in the Territory is an experience.
Where else would you see a full-grown Brahman
bull watching you wash the car windscreen?
There’s not much else at Dunmurra, other than
a servo and fast food top up, but we’re told that
the local wildlife do often pop in for a look at the
customers.
The change in scenery heading south on the
Explorer’s Way (Stuart Highway) is quite dramatic.
It starts in the tropical north of Darwin, where
leafy palms and lush green grass, soft like a
cushioning mattress, contrast with the white and
yellow frangipani flowers the size of small saucers
that line the streets.
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36 | Go Camping Australia
Fact File Getting thereThe Explorer’s Way joins Darwin to Adelaide. You can start your trip at either end.
When to goThe Northern Territory is so large it covers two very distinct climate zones. The Red Centre has a semi-arid climate and experiences the rest of Australia’s four typical seasons. In the Tropical North, there is an average year-round temperature of 32 degrees celsius, with greater levels of humidity over the traditional summer months of November to February.
Where to camp The main centres to stock up on provisions are Adelaide, Port Augusta, Coober Pedy, Alice Springs, Tennant Creek, Katherine and Darwin, but there are a number of roadhouses and petrol stations interspersed along the route.
Most campsites have camping fees which help pay for the upkeep of the area and these are often payable via the honesty system upon entry to the park. Idyllic locations to set up your tent or roll out the swag along the Explorer’s Way track include Karlu Karlu Conservation Park, Edith Falls, Umbrawarra Gorge and Rainbow Valley Conservation Park.
More information www.adventurealltheway.com.au
The grass remains as vibrant heading
down the track, but rich red ochre-coloured
termite mounds begin to dot the landscape.
The rivers and waterholes are filled to the
brim after recent rains and the barren
eucalyptus trees have a full head of hair
again after a long dry season.
Heading further south, around Elliott
and Three Ways, the landscape changes
again and the road becomes flat and
straight. Road trains become few and far
between and there is the occasional herd
of Brahman cattle meandering beside
the road, while up above, Whistling Kites
circle in the thermals, searching for their
next meal.
The dense leafy bush becomes more
and more sparse and the trees increasingly
shorter. Several sections of bush are
reminiscent of the southern coastline
but others remain iconically NT. By far
the tallest landmarks on the horizon
are the repeater stations that stand tall
and contrast starkly with their natural
surrounds.
By day three, we make it to Tenant Creek.
The trusty Maui purrs away, clicking up the
miles as we slip in another travelling CD.
We feel we’ve left the confines of everyday
hum-drum and the sun is beginning to set,
casting a soft yellow hue on the landscape
of small, white trunked gums and oddly
shaped termite mounds. It really feels like
we are at the heart of what historically
1: Red Bank Gorge, NT
2: Alice Springs, NT
helped shape Australia’s pioneering past.
Many people forget, or don’t even know, the
history of John McDouall Stuart, one of the
country’s early explorers. Without him, the
telegraph line built in 1872 from Adelaide
to Darwin, revolutionising communication
between England to Australia, would never
have been possible.
Tennant Creek isn’t perhaps a town
where you would consider spending your
entire holiday, but the sights around here
are definitely worth stopping for.
We leave Tennant Creek behind and
begin the final leg of our journey to Alice
Springs. The Maui van has been our home
away from home for the past five days.
We’ve had a taste of the breadth and
expanse of the Northern Territory and are
a little sad to see the back of our trusty van.
The Explorer’s Way continues down to
Adelaide, but that’s for another time.
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38 | Go Camping Australia
Hittinga high note
Words and photos: Kara Murphy
Two weekends per year, visitors to Undara Volcanic
National Park experience an eruption of song that
flows through part of the landscape, mixing with the
solos of blue-winged kookaburras, magpies and singing
honeyeaters.
A pied currawong exits from a curtain of illuminated
eucalypt leaves, singing and flying over stage left just
as the pianist strikes her first keys. The time is 5:45pm,
just on sunset, and the few dozen other eucalypts in the
audience share the spotlight, wearing similarly golden-
hued costumes.
The trees aren’t the only ones present for Sydney-based
company Opera Bites’ performance of The Fairy Queen,
an anonymous libretto loosely based on Shakespeare’s
A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The 300-seat amphitheatre
is currently holding 200+ human patrons – some opera
aficionados and others wholly unversed in this art form
but here for the ambience, novelty and excuse to dress
up like a nymph or fairy.
Aside from the fairy costume, which I forgot to bring
along, I definitely fall within the latter category. I’ve heard
‘Nessun dorma’ plenty of times (and always love it), but
I’m pretty sure the last time I attended an opera was
20 years ago, when my London study abroad program
syllabus demanded my presence at a performance of Bizet’s
Carmen. Too exhausted, perhaps, from a full day of classes
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Go Camping Australia | 39
1: An opera performance begins as the sun sets over Undara Volcanic National Park.
2: Hungry visitors to Undara Experience enjoy fried eggs and more at a bush brekkie.
3: Rock-wallabies are often sighted in Undara Volcanic National Park.
4: An Undara Experience guest relaxes next to his rental campervan (a two-berth Apollo Euro Tourer) in one of the campground’s powered sites.
My husband and I try both post-
opera dining options but retire early
to our two-berth Apollo Euro Tourer
campervan each evening so we can rise
with the relentless North Queensland
sun and make tracks along a few of the
park’s eight self-guided bushwalks during the
day’s cooler hours. On our first morning, we visit
the information carriage near campground reception,
the point of departure for several walks, including the
2.3km Bluff Circuit, which climbs a small granite knoll
south west of the lodge and seems a perfect pre-brekkie
endeavour.
The silence of the still sleepy track is broken only by
birdsong, the rustle of a rock-wallaby crouching in the
scrub, and the hum of a helicopter on a scenic flight.
From the bluff’s sizeable boulders, we peer over the
campground and lodge, both nestled within the patchy
shade the extensive, wooded lava plains provide. We know
that somewhere out there, beyond camp and hidden from
our current vantage, is the Undara lava tube, one of the
longest lava tube cave systems in the world.
Approximately 190,000 years ago, an active shield
volcano bellowed, erupting and spewing molten lava that
flowed more than 90km to the north and 160km to the
north west. Rivers of lava confined to a valley cooled and
2
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3
Enjoy
to make sense of the French dialogue and singing, my main
impressions were thus: some of the music was fun, and a
lady in red died at the end. (Good thing I didn’t have to
write an essay about it!)
Last night’s performance, while lacking this evening’s
sun-kissed ambience due to rain and a subsequent late
start, proved a treat. Opera Bites’ entree piece was an
abridged adaptation of Carmen ...in English. At last, I
understood the plot. And its brief duration (of about an
hour) significantly enhanced my appreciation.
Of course, the outdoor venue, surrounded by Undara
Volcanic National Park and a short walk from one’s
campsite, is what makes attending these performances
particularly enticing. I don’t often have a reason to bring
– let alone actually wear – anything even slightly fancy
when I go camping, so donning a long skirt and dabbling
with make-up after a full day exploring the national
park’s walking trails and lava tubes feels decadent and
rather thrilling. Most guests make an effort to spruce
up, but since we’re in a sometimes muddy environment,
no one appears to heed anyone’s shoe selection, thank
goodness. Afterwards, guests can return to their
campsites for some self-catered tucker or delay the
inevitable transformation back into camping attire by
sitting down to a three-course meal at Fettler’s Iron
Pot Bistro.
Opera in the Outback
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40 | Go Camping Australia
crusted over, forming a roof, while the lava below
drained outwards, creating hollow tubes. Thanks
to the collapsed roofs of weaker sections, humans
and wildlife have access to some tubes’ cool, damp
interiors – although the former are only permitted
entry on a guided tour.
The tube’s course is marked by ribbons of
emerald-green vine thicket visible from vantages
such as the Kalkani Crater rim, located 13km from
the campground and accessible via a 2.5km return
bushwalk – tomorrow morning’s planned exercise.
Continuing along our current path, we descend
from the bluff and turn left onto the Swamp Track,
which leads us directly into bustling Ringers Camp
and the bush brekkie awaiting. The short walk
has managed to increase my appetite tenfold,
and the aromas of bread toasting over an open
fire, eggs frying on a barbie, and coffee and billy
tea brewing inspire my stomach to begin its own
tenor aria. ‘None shall sleep ‘til you feed me!’
‘None shall sleep ‘til you do!’ it cries. Thankfully,
brekkie is forthcoming, and most fellow campers
are already awake.
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Marchinbar Island
Bentinck Island
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Cape Beatrice
Cape Keerweer
Cape Flattery
Lookout Point
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Cape Wilberforce
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Cape Tribulation
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Mt Norna
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Mt Elliot
Mt Walker
Mt Hutton
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Bedourie
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Coolabah
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Gwabegar
Nymboida
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Arrilalah
Goonyella
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Blackbull
Wanaaring
Rolleston
Port Alma
Middleton
Woodstock
Chillagoe
Urandangi
Greenvale
Condamine
Baryulgil
Meandarra
Lyndhurst
Gunpowder
Innamincka
Coppabella
Ravenswood
Hungerford
Nindigully
Kumbarilla
Glenmorgan
Mungallala
Stonehenge
Ilfracombe
Einasleigh
Birdsville
Burramurra
Yantabulla
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Abergowrie
Elura Mine
Parachilna
Tibooburra
Marlborough
Bogantungan
Mount Perry
St LawrenceBlair Athol
Mount Molloy
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Mount Surprise
Lakeland
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Captain Billy Landing
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Mittiebah
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Bing Bong
Woolerina
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Seven Emu
Lakefield
Avon Downs
Tobermorey
Frankfield
Yelvertoft
Mootwingee
Nockatunga
Castlevale
Warbreccan
Coorabulka
Springvale
Lucy Creek
Ooratippra
Thorntonia
Claraville
Inverleigh Strathmore
Murnpeowie
Currawilla
YarrowmereChatsworth
Carandotta
Dalgonally
Wando Vale
Meadowbank
Armraynald
Alexandria
Strathburn
Moolawatana
Murra Murra
Durrandella
Breadalbane
Argadargada
Numil Downs
Riversleigh
Donors Hill
Delta Downs
TiltagoonahMulyungarie
Frome Downs
Moray Downs
Natal Downs
Malbon Vale
Saxby Downs
Bluff Downs
Maggieville
Wollogorang
MallapunyahSprings
Strathhaven
Violet Vale
Border Downs
Shelburne Bay
Mount Douglas
Thurloo Downs
Millers Creek
DynevorDowns
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo
Tarlton Downs
GregoryDowns
Saltbush Park
Austral Downs
Miranda Downs
Calvert Hills
Marina Plains
Batavia Downs
Lorella Spring
Mount Margaret
Kangaroo Hills
Abingdon Downs
Rutland Plains
Cordillo Downs
Mount Sturgeon
Chudleigh Park
Mount MulgraveMcArthur River
DavenportDowns
Mount Lyndhurst
Cresswell Downs
MountRavenswood
Diamantina Lakes
Roxborough Downs
Buckingham Downs
Mount Elsie
Augustus Downs
Mount Mulyah
Bulloo Downs
Galway Downs
Marion Downs
Glenormiston
Strathfillan
Nappa Merrie
Durham Downs
Mount Howitt
Barkly Downs
Westmoreland
Wrotham Park
Tara
Bell
Weipa
Miles
Tieri
Guyra
Urunga
Sarina
Bourke
Kyogle
Wondai
Howard
Aramac
Winton
Boulia
Cooroy
Wandoan
Capella
Gayndah
Wee Waa
Quilpie
Mossman
Clifton
Bonalbo
Ashford
Woomera
Baradine
Jandowae
Mitchell
Eidsvold
Theodore
Richmond
Silkwood
Dimbulah
Emu Park
Warialda
Wallumbilla
Bellingen
St George
Longreach
Gracemere
Cloncurry
Home Hill
Umbakumba
Numbulwar
Hope ValeKowanyama
Andamooka
Woolgoolga
Augathella
Barcaldine
Georgetown
Pormpuraaw
Dirranbandi
Tin Can Bay
Julia Creek
Roxby Downs
Collarenebri
White Cliffs
Esk
Giru
Oakey
Tambo
Bluff
Tiaro
Surat
Monto
Moura
Alpha
Tully
Texas
Iluka
Boonah
Uralla
Kilcoy
Yuleba
Injune
Taroom
Dysart
Marian
Ingham
Bamaga
Murgon
Tingha
Goondiwindi
Bingara
Babinda
Attunga
Manilla
Walgett
Glenden
Halifax
Croydon
Karumba
Aurukun
Gin Gin
Proston
Nanango
Maclean
Dorrigo
Barraba
Cardwell
Delungra
Thangool
Boggabri
NarrabriBundarra
Goodooga MungindiYelarbon
BlackallCalliope
Duaringa
Clermont
Seaforth
Cooktown
Yirrkala
Angurugu
Rubyvale
Baralaba
Childers
Yarraman
Jimboomba
Biggenden
Wilcannia
Coonamble
Bendemeer
Glenreagh
InglewoodKillarney
Hughenden
Normanton
Camooweal
Doomadgee
Goondiwindi
Nhulunbuy
Alyangula
HerbertonRavenshoe
Burketown
Springsure
Brewarrina Evans Head
Stanthorpe
Cunnamulla
Beaudesert
Millmerran
Pittsworth
Blackwater
Walkerston
Proserpine
Gordonvale
Borroloola
Woorabinda
Mundubbera
CrowsNest
Wallangarra
Leigh Creek
Mullumbimby
Charleville
Miriam Vale
Palm Island
Middlemount
AlstonvilleTenterfield
Mount Morgan
Finch Hatton
Ocean Shores
Thargomindah
Cecil Plains
Mount Larcom
Airlie Beach
Mount Garnet
Collinsville
Tannum Sands
Mission Beach
Lockhart River
Thursday Island
Hamilton Island
Lightning Ridge
Nambour
Ballina
Bargara
Ayr
Roma
Bowen
GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah
Chinchilla
Deepwater
Bushland Beach
Moree
Dalby
Yamba
Casino
Gatton
Gympie
Grafton
Warwick
Biloela
Emerald Yeppoon
Mareeba
SawtellGunnedah
Armidale
Inverell
Bongaree
Kingaroy
Deeragun
Atherton
Moranbah
Byron Bay
Innisfail
Mount Isa
Caboolture
Glen Innes
Maryborough
Murwillumbah
Port DouglasTrinity Beach
ChartersTowers
BUNDABERG
MACKAY
CAIRNS
LISMORE
GLADSTONE
CALOUNDRA
HERVEY BAY
ROCKHAMPTON
COFFS HARBOUR
NOOSA HEADS
TOOWOOMBA
MAROOCHYDORE
Deepwater
Deepwater
TOWNSVILLE
TWEED HEADS
IPSWICH
GOLD COAST
BRISBANE
Alpurrurulam
Wujal Wujal
Balgal Beach
Midge Point
Byfield
Agnes Water
Gununa
Misima I
LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO
D'ENTRECASTEAUX ISLAN
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P A P U A N E W G U I N E A
Undara Volcanic national Park
Fact File Getting thereUndara Experience is located 275km (about four hours) south west of Cairns. Several routes are available. One is to follow the Bruce Hwy south to Gordonvale and turn right onto the Gillies Hwy to the Atherton Tablelands. Continue towards Ravenshoe, following signs for Mount Garnet. Press on towards Mount Surprise. About 17km along the Gulf Development Rd, turn left towards Undara. After 6km, you’ll reach a fork in the road. For Undara Experience, take the right-hand fork; for the Kalkani day-use area, take the left-hand fork.
When to goThe cooler, drier months from April to August are considered the most comfortable time to visit Undara Volcanic National Park. The period from late October until late March is typically hot, humid and wet. To catch the next Opera in the Outback, plan your visit for October 4-6, 2012; the Outback Country Rock and Blues Festival is scheduled for March, 2013.
camping Undara Experience, located within Undara Volcanic National Park, has 23 drive-up unpowered campsites (from $20 per night for up to five guests) and 29 powered van sites (from $30 per night). Permanent ‘swag’ tents (from $32 per night for two people) with lights and beds are also available. Phone 1800 990 992 or visit www.undara.com.au
Morewww.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/undara-volcanic www.queenslandholidays.com.au www.apollocamper.com
© Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
1: A hiker enjoys a morning bushwalk to the Bluff, Undara Volcanic National Park.
2: Billy tea and coffee are one of the highlights of Undara Experience’s bush brekkie.
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42 | Go Camping Australia
Oasisin the Centre Words: Heidrun Rodach
Photos: Heidrun Rodach and Michael Duffy
Sheer orange cliff faces tower over a
near permanent waterhole at Ormiston
Gorge’s most spectacular feature, a deep
passage carved through a quartzite range by the
floodwaters of Ormiston Creek.
These strong colours and rock formations have
inspired countless artists since the area opened to
tourists in the 1940s. Each time we visit the Red
Centre, we go back to this quiet oasis located west
of Alice Springs in the West MacDonnell Ranges.
The best way to appreciate the scenery is to
follow one of the marked trails. A 20 minute walk
to the Ghost Gum Lookout starts behind the
visitor centre. It is a steep climb to a gum perched
precariously on a ledge overlooking the gorge. A
1.5 hour loop continues along the rugged rock
walls further into the gorge before a climb down to
the water level for the return to the campground.
At the time of our visit the gorge was filled with
water and a family was stranded on the other side
of the gorge. The cliffs were too steep to climb and
it was too far to retrace their steps back through
the pound that late in the afternoon. They had to
cross the icy water reaching their necks to make it
back to the campground during daylight. The same
walk was on our agenda for the next day.
The 7km Ormiston Pound Track starts near
the campground, crossing the river before it leads
up to the steep cliffs. A colony of black footed
rock wallabies can be seen early in the morning.
They are quite timid and are only too happy to
pose. Sure footed they chase each other on the
overhanging rocks where there is a sheer drop to
the river below.
We continued to cross the slopes of the ancient
limestone range. The heavy rains had not only filled
the gorge but brought new life to the terrain. Spiky
spinifex grass filled the canvas in a subtle green,
1: Views to Mt Sonder from Hilltop Lookout.
2: Wildflowers in full bloom after the rains.
3: Black footed rock wallabies are happy to pose early in the morning.
4: The track to Glen Helen Gorge is lined with tufted spinifex grass.
5: A dingo sneaking around the perimeter of the campground.
intermingled with desert blooms in purple, red,
yellow and pink.
On various short detours you can appreciate the
views before you arrive at the floor of the Pound,
a large level area enclosed by the mountain
ranges. Numerous waterholes
remained of what must have been
a raging river only a short while
back. Massive river gums stood
defiant of the torrential water
which obviously washed out
the gorge and deposited tons
of sand in the riverbed. Debris
was still hanging on the trees
indicating the height of the
water during the recent rains.
We stopped for a picnic and a
short dip in the rather cold water
while admiring the colourful walls of
the gorge. The range is believed to be between
310 and 340 million years old and emerged as
a result of a massive earth movement. It once
stood over 3,000m high before erosion formed
many of the famous gaps, waterholes, gorges and
chasms over time.
We ventured on to the mouth of the gorge.
Normally we could complete the circle by walking
through the gorge and return via the main
Ormiston Gorge is a quiet oasis in the Red Centre
2 3
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Go Camping Australia | 43
Explore
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44 | Go Camping Australia
waterhole close to the visitor centre. But having
observed the predicament of the family the day
before, we decided to retrace our steps.
The waterhole at Ormiston Gorge is ideal
for swimming in the warmer months. It is also a
favourite spot for birds. Spinifex pigeons hurried
through the camp looking for seeds. The Port
Lincoln parrot devoured the melons found along
the riverbed and the grey crowned babblers
squawked like monkeys in the bushes. A whistling
kite circled over the waterhole in search of prey.
Ormiston Gorge is an important refuge for
the central rock-rat and the long-tailed dunnart,
a small carnivorous marsupial active at night.
Dingoes are frequent visitors to the waterhole and
sneak around the perimeter of the campground.
‘At night put everything away,’ warns the camp
manager Kerry. ‘The dingoes take shoes, towels
and are particularly interested in your rubbish.’
Park rangers conduct regular information
evenings where you sit around the campfire and
listen to the ranger talk about the fauna, flora and
the history of the area while dingo howls echo
through the gorge.
The barbecue area at the campground is a real
meeting place. While you cook you can exchange
tips and hints with fellow travellers, some who
came to Ormiston Gorge for a day and stayed
for a week.
Ormiston Gorge is also a stop on the Larapinta
Trail, a 223km walking track along the backbone of
the West MacDonnell Ranges. It starts at the Alice
Springs Telegraph Station and ends at Mt Sonder.
The trail is divided into 12 sections.
We decided to do section 10, a 9.9km walk to
Glen Helen Gorge. It is a windy and undulating
walk through a carpet of red soil dotted with
neatly arranged tufts of silver green spinifex grass.
On Hilltop Lookout we got a view of Mt Zeil, Mt
Sonder and Mt Razorback, the highest peaks in
the surrounding area.
From there we descended and crossed a
number of creeks before crossing the Finke River,
one of the oldest rivers in the world. It can turn
into a raging torrent of water after rains, its water
disappearing again underground into the artesian
basin which keeps the Outback supplied with
water. At the Trailhead Camping Area we pushed
on for another 3.5km to Glen Helen Resort and a
welcome cool drink.
Glen Helen is only one of six more or less
permanent waterholes along the 600km Finke
1: Orange Cliffs at Ormiston Gorge.
2: Old International Truck on the way to Glen Helen Gorge.
3: Spinifex pigeons sitting still for a change.
4: Ormiston Pound with views to the cliffs of the gorge.
5: A young family had to cross the icy waters at Ormiston Gorge.
2
1
3
Explore
The waterhole at Ormiston Gorge is ideal for swimming in the warmer
months – it is also a favourite spot for birds
River system. The waterhole was first used as a
watering point for horses and cattle in the 1880s.
Today it is a popular waterhole for visitors,
especially the hikers on the Larapinta Trail.
We had done our day’s walking and took the
offer for a shuttle back to our camp at Ormiston
Gorge. The golden orb of the sun slowly sank
illuminating the cliffs of the gorge in bright
orange. Across the sky, clouds glowed with
pinks and oranges providing us with another
spectacular Outback sunset.
42-45 _Oasis in the centre.indd 44 29/05/12 3:24 PM
Go Camping Australia | 45
4
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Hay
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Allig
ator
Mulligan
Cox
Alligator
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Riv
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South
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Daly
OR
DDIAMANTINA
VICTORIA
ROPER
Georgina
LAKE MACKAY
Lake Argyle
LakeAmadeus
Sylvester Lake
LakeWoods
Lake Wills
Tarrabool Lake
Lake Neale
Bilpa MoreaClaypan
Lake Macdonald
Lake Gregory
Lake Lewis
Lake White
De Burgh Lake
Lake Hopkins
LakeMachattie
Corella Lake
Lake Dennis
Lake Bennett
Lake Etamunbanie
Nongra Lake
Lake Buck
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MELVILLE ISLAND
GROOTE EYLANDT
BATHURST ISLAND
MORNINGTONISLAND
Croker Island
Vanderlin Island
Marchinbar Island
Raragala IslandSouth Goulburn Island
Peron Island North
Maria Island
West I North Island
Guluwuru Island
Bremer Island
Fog Bay
FinkeBay
Anson Bay
Hyland Bay
ArnhemBay
BEAGLE GULF
Caledon Bay
Junction Bay
ChambersBay
LIMMEN BIGHT
BLUEMUDBAY
MelvilleBay
Port Bradshaw
VAN DIEMEN GULF
Mountnorris Bay
G U L F
O F
C A R P E N T A R I A
JOSEPH BONAPARTE GULF
Cape Arnhem
Cape Croker
Pearce Point
Cape Beatrice
Cape Fourcroy
Caution Point
Cape Van Diemen
Cape Wilberforce
Queens Channel
CLARENCE STRAIT
DUNDAS STRAIT
Milyakburra
Minyerri
Mt Samuel
Cape Londonderry
Katherine Gorge
Mt Hay
Mt Webb
Mt Theo
Kata Tjuta/Mt Olga
Mt Zeil
Mt Wells
Mt Cecil
Mt Bundey
Mt Liebig
Mt Parker
Mt Squires
Mt Leisler
Mt Hogarth
Mt Kathleen
Mt Tietkens
Mt Cockburn
Mt Davidson
Mt Junction
Mt Cockburn
Mt Drummond
Mt Laughlen
Mt Illbillee
Mt Greenwood
Mt Woodroffe
Mt Singleton
Mt Sir Thomas
Stevenson Peak
Uluru/Ayers Rock
Central Mount Wedge
Central Mount Stuart
Mt Evelyn (Garadbaluk)
Mt Howship
Mt Remarkable
Mt Farquharson
BoucautBay
Poeppel CornerSurveyor Generals Corner
CARR
BO
YD R
AS
DURA
CK
RAN
GE Cape Crawford
Robinson River
JAMES RANGES
Marla
Finke
Elsey
Balgo
Mimili
Bulman
Duchess
Abminga
Ti-TreeNturiya
Warrego
Dajarra
Areyonga
Atitjere
Wauchope
Maranboy
Bedourie
Dunmarra
Larrimah
Yarralin
Daguragu
Urandangi
Gunpowder
Lissadell
Birdsville
Burramurra
Hayes Creek
Daly Waters
Oombulgurri
The Granites
Bark Hut Inn
Barrow Creek
Haasts Bluff
Peppimenarti
South Alligator
Phosphate Hill
Renner Springs
Curtin Springs
Newcastle Waters
Kulgera
Erldunda
Kaltjiti(Fregon) Indulkana
(Iwantja)
Pukatja (Ernabella)
Three Ways
Rabbit Flat
Victoria River
Tanami
Wycliffe Well
Barkly
Wutunugurra
LarambaAileron
Willowra
Lake ArgyleVillage
Giles Meteorological Station
KINTO
RE R
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REYNOLDS RA
PINKERTO
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STA
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MO
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WELLESLEY ISLANDS
SIR EDWARD PELLEW GROUP
COBOURGPENINSULA
GOVEPENINSULA
CAM
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T I W I I S L A N D S
How
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Cast
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RAWLIN SON RA
WARBURTON RA
TOMKINSON RAS
BLOODS RA
PETERMANN RAS
MANN RAS
TREUER RA
STUART BLUFF RA
MACDONNELL RANGES
HARTS RA
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DAVENPORT RA
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T A N A M I D E S E R T
G I B S O N D E S E R T
S I M P S O N D E S E R T
T A B L E L A N D
S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T
Kintore
N O R T H E R N
T E R R I T O R Y
Buckingham Bay
Port L
angdon
B A R K L Y
Isle Woodah
Bick
erton I
Centre I
Mt Liebig
Titjikala
Imanpa
Oban
Bunda
Newry
Marqua
Utopia
Legune
Tieyon
Yambah
Gorrie
Almora
Andado
Soudan
Indiana
Henbury
Jervois
Elkedra
Undilla
Alcoota
Benmara
Mainoru
Murranji
Wombungi
Auvergne
Newhaven
Anningie
Karunjie
Delamere
Willeroo
BeetalooLimbunya
WaterlooRosewood
Glengyle
AnnitowaGeorgina
Downs
Morstone
Bowthorn
Ringwood
Mount Ebenezer
Victoria River Downs
Ranken
Nicholson
Dorisvale
Tipperary
Idracowra
Maryfield
Goodparla
Mittiebah
Lawn Hill
Bing Bong
Todmorden
New Crown
Deep Well
Atartinga
Lake Nash
Gallipoli
Eva Downs
Seven Emu
O T DownsBroadmere
Avon Downs
Tobermorey
St Vidgeon
Ambalindum
Cooee Hill
Yelvertoft
Birrindudu
Mulga Park
Glen Helen
Mount Swan
Lucy Creek
Ooratippra
Thorntonia
Carandotta
Alexandria
Brunchilly
Scott Creek
Top Springs
Spirit Hill
Chilla Well
Sturt Creek
Ruby Plains
Agnes Creek
Angas Downs
Narwietooma
Alice Downs
Breadalbane
Argadargada
Riversleigh
Lilla Creek
Alroy Downs
Wollogorang
Ucharonidge
MallapunyahSprings
Tanumbirini
Hatches Creek
Gordon Downs
Flora Valley
Point Stuart
Bond Springs
Tanami Downs
SundayCreek
Dunham River
CarltonHill
Marion Downs
Glenormiston
Nathan River
Barkly Downs
Westmoreland
Billengarrah
Roper Valley
Bedford Downs
Mount Sanford
Granite Downs
Wallara Ranch
Mount Denison
Hidden Valley
Mistake Creek
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie
Tarlton Downs
GregoryDowns
Welbourn Hill
Austral Downs
McLaren Creek
Calvert Hills
Nutwood Downs Lorella Spring
Hamilton Downs
Horseshoe Bend
Brunette Downs
AnthonyLagoon
McArthur River
Emerald Springs
Vaughan Springs
Cresswell Downs
Supplejack Downs
Roxborough Downs
Buckingham Downs
Inverway
Rockhampton Downs
Bullita Outstation
Central Mount Wedge
Banka Banka
Powell Creek
Nguiu
Wyndham
Belyuen
Ngukurr
Papunya
Yuendumu
Gunbalanya(Oenpelli)
Lajamanu
Ali-Curung
Mintabie
Umbakumba
Numbulwar
Mataranka
Wadeye (Port Keats)
Kalkarindji
Pine Creek
Pirlangimpi
Timber Creek
Santa Teresa
Tennant Creek
Jabiru
Warmun(Turkey Creek)
Elliott
Warruwi
Yirrkala
Angurugu
Camooweal
Doomadgee
Minjilang
Nhulunbuy
Gapuwiyak
Batchelor
Alyangula
Burketown
Milikapiti
ManingridaMilingimbi
Nauiyu(Daly River)
Borroloola
Ramingining
Halls Creek
Hermannsburg
Adelaide River
Howard Springs
Barunga(Bamyili)
Yulara
Kaltukatjara(Docker River)
Galiwinku
Katherine
Mount Isa
Kununurra
Humpty Doo
Palmerston
Alice Springs
DARWIN
Cooinda
Nganmarriyanga
Alpurrurulam
Ampilatwatja
Mindibungu
Amata
Gununa
E A S T T I M O R
200
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T I M O R S E A
A R A F U R A S E A
© Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
ORMISTON GORGE
snowys.com.auAustralia’s #1 online camping&outdoors store
Free Delivery… Australia-wide!
Fact File Getting thereOrmiston Gorge is located 135km west of Alice Springs. Access is via Larapinta and Namatjira Drives. The campground is located 8km from the Ormiston Gorge turn-off on Namatjira Drive. The road is sealed but can be impassable after heavy rains. The park is accessible all year round but the cooler months (April–October) are more pleasant.
Swimming is allowed in the waterhole, but the water is extremely cold.
Where to campSolar powered hot showers – get in early before water runs out, gas barbecues, picnic tables.
Fees: $6.60 per person. Caretakers on site.
More informationPark & Wildlife Services of NT, Alice Springs: Ph: 08 8951 8211
42-45 _Oasis in the centre.indd 45 29/05/12 3:24 PM
46 | Go Camping Australia
o’BourkeBack
Words and photos: Lee Atkinson
46-49 _TimeslideBourke.indd 46 29/05/12 3:25 PM
Go Camping Australia | 47
MAIN IMAGE: Red dust highway, on the road to Gundabooka.
1: Darling River, Bourke.
Henry Lawson once said that to “know Bourke
is to know Australia”. But sheltering in the
shade of a rocky overhang at Gundabooka
National Park 50km south of Bourke, all I know is
that this is a pretty important place for the Ngemba
and Paakandji people, who came here in groups for a
millennia or more to dance up a storm, in this place they
called ‘stone country’.
You can almost hear the beat of the clapping sticks and the
gravelly sounds of the didgeridoo reverberate and echo around the
shallow cave as you gaze at the dancing figures painted in white on the red
rock wall. Wakakirri is the Ngemba word for dance, and the ‘shake-a-leg’ was
performed whenever people gathered together in the rust-red Gunderbooka
Ranges for ceremony. But this rock art gallery has more than just depictions
of dancing; the walls hold a record of all that was important to the people
who once roamed western NSW. Tools such as boomerangs and spears, and
stencils of stone axes decorate the wall of the cave, along with white emus,
hand stencils, and mysteriously swirling circular paintings, the symbolic
meanings left unexplained, perhaps lost in time.
The Mulareenya Creek rock art site is one of the best in outback NSW,
the ochre and pipeclay paintings vibrant and clear, and protected against
the blazing sun and driving rain by a large rock awning. To get there it’s a
20-minute walk across a pretty stone-strewn valley, rock-hopping across
dry creek beds and skirting small waterholes. It’s these waterholes and
creeks that brought the Ngemba and Paakandji to the ranges, according to
information supplied by National Parks, who say that “the mountain and
1
Timeslide
History strewn riverside camping
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48 | Go Camping Australia
nearby Yanda Creek form part of an extensive
travel network that linked the mountain with
other waterholes, creeks and the Darling River”.
The Darling was part of the white people’s
travel network as well. Once lauded as a second
Mississippi, Bourke was a major river port back in
the 1870s when more than 100 paddle steamers
laden with bales of wool and other goods rode
the river all the way to the sea in South Australia.
There’s just one on this section of the river these
days, the PV Jandra, which takes tourists on a
short river cruise, but follow the track through
the Maritime Heritage Park on the north side
of the river and you’ll pass by the rusting ruins
of paddle steamers such as the PS Wave, left
to decay high on the river bank where it was
stranded by floods back in 1929 when water
levels dropped overnight. The 24km round
trip, which includes a number of historic sites
marked by interpretive storyboards dealing with
the history of the river, explorers and trade, is
detailed in the excellent guide to the area called
Back o’Bourke Mud Map Tours. The brochure is
free at the visitor centre and has detailed driving
(or walking) routes and is packed with interesting
snippets of history.
For more tales of Bourke’s glory days we head
to Back O’Bourke museum. Less a collection of
historical artefacts and more a gallery of stories
and legends, we learn where the phrase ‘Back
O’Bourke’ comes from (a poem by Will Ogilvie)
and look at the town and outback though the eyes
and words of writers such as Breaker Morant and
Henry Lawson. The $20 entry fee is a bit steep
considering some of the video installations were
not working during our visit and the cafe was
closed, but if you are a fan of Australian literature
and like discovering unsung outback heroes, you’ll
enjoy the exhibits.
Our mud map tour points us in the direction
of May’s Bend, which is described as “a lovely
1
2
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spot next to the river for camping” and sounds
too good to miss. To get there, we cross North
Bourke Bridge, one of the oldest lift bridges in
NSW. Despite the local legend that the bridge was
bent to skirt around the North Bourke Pub (sadly
since burnt down), the long sweeping approach
was curved because the bullock teams carting
loads of wool could not execute a sharp turn.
Half an hour later, after a rather bumpy cross-
country drive on a barely-defined track, we pull
up at May’s Bend beside the river, which is indeed
a ‘lovely spot’. We set up camp on the bank in a
clearing beside majestic river gums, throw in a
fishing line, and as the sun sets, we clamber down
the steep-sided bank to a small sandy beach and
1: Bourke Lift Bridge.
2: Mulareenya Creek Art Site, Gundabooka National Park.
3: Henry Lawson reckoned that “If you know Bourke, you know Australia”.
4: PV Jandra.
5: Lose yourself in the legends of the outback at the Back o’Bourke Centre.
6: Lookout over the Gunderbooka Range.
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Go Camping Australia | 49
6
Paro
o
Neb
ine
Wal
lam
Willandra
Yanda
Creek
River
Cre
ek
R
Ck
Strz
elec
ki
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on
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Cre
ek
Cre
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Olary
R
Creek
R
Eurinilla
Ck
Man
unda
Ck
TilchaCreek
Taly
awal
ka
Creek
Mulga
River
Clar ence RN
ymboida
R
Goulburn
Talbragar
R
Bogan
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Nep
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MURRUMBIDGEE
Sho
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Ovens
Ck
R
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la
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an
R
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Hop
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River
River
R
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Namoi
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River
Hunter
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River
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Macleay
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Bulloo
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Dumaresq
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Murray
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War
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Barwon
Lach
lan
River
Macquarie
Namoi
River
Balonne
Riv
er
Condamine
RIVER
MURRAY
RIVER
DARLING
RIVER
MU
RR
AY
RIVER
Lake Hume
Lake Eildon
Lake Eucumbene
Lake Dartmouth
Lake Burragorang
Lake Kajarabie
LAKEFROME
Lake Blanche
LakeAlexandrina
LakeCallabonna
Garnpung Lake
Lake Gregory
Lake Tyrrell
Lake Tandou
LakeGeorge
Lake Menindee
Lake Mungo
LakeVictoria
Mulurulu Lake
LakeHindmarsh
Poopelloe Lake
Travellers Lake
Lake MindonaPopiltah Lake
Lake Bonney
SaltLake
LakeBurrandong
Pitarpunga Lake
Peery Lake
Lake Ballyrogan
Lake Albacutya
Lake Wyara
The Coorong
Moornanyah Lake
RocklandsReservoir
Terewah OrNarran Lake
Lake Wellington
Lake Wivenhoe
Myall Lake
LakeCowal Lake Macquarie
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Bribie Island
North Stradbroke Island
Moreton Island
Phill
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South Stradbroke I
Botany Bay
Broken Bay
PORTPHILLIP
Lacepede Bay
Corner Inlet
Port Jackson
DISCOVERYBAY
Port Stephens
Shoalhaven Bight
Moreton Bay
Ninety
Cape Howe
Cape Otway
Cape Banks
Cape Byron
Cape Moreton
Sugarloaf Point
Portland Bay
Mallacoota Inlet
WESTERN PORT
MtRobe
Mt Nurri
Mt Bryan
Mt Buller
Mt Bogong
Mt Exmouth
Bimberi Peak
St Mary Peak
Mt Kosciuszko
Tinderry Peak
Round MtnMt Booroondarra
Freeling Heights
Cameron Corner
Eulo
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GR
AM
PIA
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YOUNGHUSBA
ND
PEN
Dargo
Tilpa
Garah
Hebel
Yunta
Olary
BiggaMaude
Louth
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Yetman
Buchan
Premer
Hattah
Moomba
Bollon
Kulwin
Moonie
Byrock
Rowena
Carinda
Bellata
Bonshaw
Thallon
Wyandra
Coombah
Pilliga
Forrest
Nymagee
Burcher
TerowieDarnick
Bobadah
Booligal
Quambone
Enngonia
Balmoral
Alawoona
Cockburn
Coolabah
Toompine
CoolataiCumborah
Meringur
Naradhan
Gwabegar
Nymboida
Hill End
Peebinga
Pooncarie
Nevertire
Wanaaring
Condamine
Padthaway
Baryulgil
Silverton
Meandarra
Hermidale
Innamincka
Wanganella
Hungerford
Nindigully
Kumbarilla
Glenmorgan
Manna Hill
Mount Hope
Yantabulla
Elura Mine
Lake Bolac
Tibooburra
Robertstown
Weilmoringle
Fords Bridge
Swifts Creek
Patchewollock
Hotham Heights
Burren Junction
RankinsSprings
BENDA RA
MALLEE
WIMMERA
D I V I D I N GG R E A TR A N G E
G R E A T
DI V
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NEW ENGLAND
DARLING DOWNS
S T R Z E L E C K I
D E S E R T
WILSONS PROMONTORY
Wreck Bay
MileBeach
Waratah Bay
N E W S O U T H W A L E S
V I C T O R I A
JERVIS BAY TERRITORY
A C T
MASTERMANS
LIVERPOOL RANGE
WA
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Burta
Tongo
Mulka
Cobham
Yakara
Teilta
Tilcha
Leumeah
Westlea
Canopus
Tartulla
Yarrawin
Caiwarro
Naryilco
Orientos
Etadunna
Humeburn
Innisvale
Arkaroola
Fort GreyBundaleer
Tobermory
Canegrass
Woolerina
Curnamona
Yancannia
Mootwingee
Nockatunga
Paddington
Moolawatana
Murra Murra
TiltagoonahMulyungarie
Frome Downs
Border Downs
Mount Mulyah
Bulloo Downs
Boree Plains
Moira Plains
Nappa Merrie
Thurloo Downs
DynevorDowns
Mount Lyndhurst
Oakbank Outstation
Hay
Bega
Tara
Bell
Keith
Junee
Burra
Cobar
Nhill
Ouyen
Berri
Guyra
Nyngan
Urunga
Terang
Kerang
Temora
Bourke
Kyogle
Kaniva
Loxton
Morgan
Cooroy
Yeoval
Finley
Goroke
Penola
Yarram
Birchip
Trundle
Ivanhoe
Trangie
Wee Waa
Heywood
Dunkeld
Jeparit
Rainbow
Lameroo
RenmarkMerbein
Clifton
Bonalbo
Ashford
MerriwaAberdeen
Holbrook
Bermagui
Charlton
Mathoura
Meningie
Culcairn
Oaklands
Sea Lake
Hillston
Quirindi
Wauchope
Baradine
Jandowae
Hopetoun
Waikerie
Pinnaroo
Warialda
GrenfellGoolgowi
Berrigan
St Arnaud
Rochester
Millicent
Tintinara Woomelang
Ardlethan
Text
Warragul
Tullamore
Gilgandra
Bellingen
St George
Casterton
Underbool
Narromine
Nyah West
MerimbulaColeraine
Red Cliffs
Apollo Bay
Cann River
Canowindra
Murrurundi
Macksville
Woolgoolga
Bordertown
Swan Reach
Wedderburn
Naracoorte
Dirranbandi
Kingston SE
TailemBend
Murrayville
Coleambally
Derrinallum
SussexInlet
West Wyalong
Peterborough
Collarenebri
White Cliffs
Port Campbell
Coonabarabran
Crescent Head
Port Macdonnell
South West Rocks
Esk
Eden
Yass
Omeo
Robe
Yenda
Oakey
LorneCowes
Euroa
Henty
Urana
Scone
Surat
Texas
Iluka
Cohuna
Coolah
Boonah
Foster
Orbost
Tathra
Bright
Donald
Cobram
Moruya
BarhamWakool
Mannum
MolongKandos
DungogDenman
Warren
Uralla
Kilcoy
Murtoa
Tingha
Walcha
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Maryborough
Goondiwindi
Oberon
Picton
Batlow
Maffra
Cobden
Koroit
Bingara
Bruthen
KynetonBombala
DunollyNarooma
Boorowa
Kapunda
Tahmoor
UngarieBlayney
Gulgong
Dunedoo
Old Bar
Wingham
Attunga
Manilla
Walgett
Barmera
Nanango
Maclean
Dorrigo
Barraba
Adelong
Kilmore
Delungra
Delegate
Mortlake
Willaura
Numurkah
Tocumwal
The Rock
Lockhart Gundagai
Coolamon
Binnaway
Curlewis
Boggabri
NarrabriBundarra
Goodooga MungindiYelarbon
Dimboola
Karoonda
Yarraman
Menindee
Bundeena
Talbingo
Corryong
Edenhope
Beaufort
Barmedman
Wentworth
Jimboomba
Leongatha
Warburton
Inglewood
Jindabyne
Khancoban
Moulamein
Huskisson
BalranaldRobinvale
Jamestown Peak Hill
Tottenham
WilcanniaKootingal
Coonamble
Bendemeer
Glenreagh
InglewoodKillarney
Coonalpyn
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Goondiwindi
CANBERRA
Wangaratta
Rutherglen
Nur iootpa
Crookwell
Braidwood
Adaminaby
Berridale
Rushworth
MansfieldAlexandra
Penshurst
Camperdown
Bulahdelah
Winchelsea
Myrtleford
Jerilderie
Bungendore
Narrandera
Gerringong
Condobolin
Wellington
Brewarrina Evans Head
Stanthorpe
Cunnamulla
Beaudesert
Millmerran
Pittsworth
CrowsNest
Gloucester
Tumbarumba
Nimmitabel
Beechworth
Daylesford
WallangarraMullumbimby
Tallangatta
Manangatang
AlstonvilleTenterfield
Bonny Hills
Forest Hill
Paynesville
Werris Creek
Mount Beauty
Gulargambone
Ocean Shores
Thargomindah
Cecil Plains
Tuross Heads
Warracknabeal
Lake Cargelligo
Thredbo Village
Lightning Ridge
Harden-Murrumburrah
Forbes
Nambour
Kempsey
Ballina
Griffith
Portland
Ulladulla
Moe SaleColac
Tumut
Kiama
GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah
Chinchilla
Deepwater
Mallacoota
Hurstbridge
CorowaYar
rawonga
Young
Cowra
Taree
Moree
Dalby
Yamba
Nowra
Cooma
Echuca
Camden
Ararat
Leeton
Bowral
Parkes
Mudgee
Casino
Gatton
Morwell
StawellSeymour
Benalla
Kyabram
Grafton
Warwick
Horsham
Sawtell
Goulburn
Gunnedah
Pakenham
Richmond
Cessnock
Armidale
Inverell
Bongaree
Kingaroy
Hamilton
Mittagong
Swan Hill
Moss Vale
Singleton
Byron Bay
Traralgon
Bairnsdale
Deniliquin
Nelson Bay
Caboolture
Glen Innes
Castlemaine
Cootamundra Helensburgh
Kurri Kurri
Broken Hill
Healesville
Murwillumbah
Muswellbrook
Camden Haven
Bacchus Marsh
Mount Gambier
Lakes Entrance
Nambucca Heads
Forster-Tuncurry
Bridgewater
DUBBO
PORT MACQUARIE
MELTON
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Gundabooka national Park
Fact File Getting thereGundabooka National Park is 50km south of Bourke off the Kidman Way. Roads are passable in dry weather only.
When to goSummer temperatures can be uncomfortably hot and winter nights can be freezing: best time to go is in spring, or autumn, when flies are less friendly.
Where to campIn Gundabooka you can camp at Dry Tank, facilities include picnic tables and pit toilets, and sites are suitable for camper trailers and small caravans. May’s Bend, 11km north of Bourke on the Darling River, has some gorgeous free campsites; pets are allowed but there are no facilities and BYO drinking water. Follow the Kidman Way from North Bourke and keep an eye out for a small sign pointing right. The dirt track is fine for conventional cars but rain would make it impassable pretty quickly, so unless you’ve got a 4WD, keep an eye on the weather unless you’re happy to stay for a while.
More informationBourke Visitor Information Centre, Kidman Way, Bourke. Ph: (02) 6872 1321. www.backobourke.com.au or www.visitbourke.com.au
© Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
1: Bourke Lift Bridge.
2: Mulareenya Creek Art Site, Gundabooka National Park.
3: Henry Lawson reckoned that “If you know Bourke, you know Australia”.
4: PV Jandra.
5: Lose yourself in the legends of the outback at the Back o’Bourke Centre.
6: Lookout over the Gunderbooka Range.
float on our backs in the cool fresh
water as pelicans and cockatoos
swoop overhead in the fading light.
I ’m not so sure that these
days, when most of the country’s
population lives in the coastal cities,
Henry Lawson’s assertion that “to
know Bourke is to know Australia”
still applies, but I do know that
squelching the mud of the Darling
River between your toes and camping
on the banks of one of the country’s
greatest rivers in the middle of the
outback is to know what the good
things in life really are.
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Words and photos: Barbara and Kevin Weimer
A cheeky willie wagtail hopped around us as
we set up camp, while a red-capped robin
watched from a branch, a more respectable
distance away.
We were at Arkaroola in South Australia’s
North Flinders Ranges and our plans included a
flight over Lake Eyre. Water from monsoonal rains
in Queensland and Northern Territory was again
flowing south into the lake. Several years earlier
we had camped beside a dry salt-encrusted Lake
Eyre at Halligan Bay. Now we wanted to see this
huge lake covered with water. We were also
on a return visit to Arkaroola to check
out the benefit of several years of
good local rainfall in this normally
dry and remote area of Australia.
Arkaroola, a privately-owned
and operated wilderness
sanctuary, has a stunning
landscape, rich in flora and
fauna. Its beauty is compelling.
It was established in 1968 after
Reg Sprigg and his wife Griselda
purchased Arkaroola Sheep Station
and commenced a programme of re-
introducing native flora and fauna. The
sanctuary has since won many sustainable tourism
and ecotourism awards.
1: Overlooking the rugged Arkaroola mountains from the Acacia Ridge track.
2: Arkaroola Station and the road to the village from the air.
3: Cliffs on Lake Eyre shoreline.
4: Walking through the curly mallee bushes.
5: Arkaroola Village from the Acacia Ridge track.
The current Arkaroola custodians are Marg
and Doug Sprigg. Accommodation includes motel
rooms, cabins, a caravan park and bush camping
along Wywhyana Creek. A number of excellent
walking tracks allow you to explore on foot, while
130 kilometres of 4-wheel-drive and 2-wheel-
drive tracks take you to tranquil waterholes
with fascinating names like Nooldoonooldoona,
Bararranna and Bolla Bollana or to towering
outcrops of quartz and feldspar, such as The
Needles, The Pinnacles and Sitting Bull. Three
telescopes are also available for viewing the
wonders of the night sky.
The weather had looked doubtful when we left
Copley with 130 kilometres of dirt road ahead of
us to Arkaroola. There had been showers the night
before. However, a road restrictions sign indicated Arkaroola – stunning landscape, rich in flora and fauna
5
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all roads were open, so we drove on. There were
several muddy sections, but for the most part the
road was quite good and very picturesque.
Arriving at Arkaroola, we confirmed our Lake
Eyre flights at the very welcoming reception
desk and picked up walking track and self-
guided driving trail leaflets. Not to be missed is
the famous Ridgetop Tour. As we had taken the
Ridgetop Tour previously, and, as the access roads
to the waterholes had not been graded since the
recent rainfalls, we decided to leave them for
another trip and spend time on the walking tracks.
Next morning we set out on the Mawson-
Spriggina track. The track, starting at Arkaroola
Village, follows the Mawson Valley, named after
Sir Douglas Mawson, who studied the sequence
and relationship of rock layers in the Flinders
Ranges in the early 1900s. It returns along the
Spriggina Ridge, named after Reg Sprigg, who
had first visited this area as a geology student of
Mawson’s as early as 1937 and had discovered
600-million-year-old fossils in the rocks of the
Flinders – the earliest forms of worms and jelly
fish fossils to have been found. It was Mawson
who urged Sprigg to preserve this geological
wonderland for future generations.
This well-marked track meandered across a
creek and around hillsides with beautiful views.
Wildflowers such as elegant wattle, curly mallee,
senna and rock fuchsia were in bloom. Small
finches and wrens darted amongst the bushes.
We passed the pink nose of Sitting Bull and other
imposing rock formations including outcrops of
granitic rock known as The Pinnacles. We looked
for the endangered yellow-footed rock wallabies,
often seen at dusk or early morning, but as it was
mid-morning we were out of luck.
The next day we walked the popular Acacia
Ridge track. A young American named Mike drove
us to the trailhead near Arkaroola Station. No
longer a working sheep station, Arkaroola Station
is maintained in good condition and often houses
groups of geologists or astronomy students who
come here to study this amazing landscape and
its clear unpolluted skies.
Mike said we were in for a treat walking along
Acacia Ridge – and he wasn’t wrong! Whereas
yesterday we walked through a valley, today we
were high on a ridge top looking down both sides
into the valleys and across mountaintops. At the
ridge summit, the view across the many majestic
mountains was breathtaking. At Mt. Elva Dam, just
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A number of excellent walking tracks allow you
to explore on foot
before we reached the village, flocks of little birds
were diving into and out of the water. From there
it was a short walk back to the village through
“Ark Henge”, a collection of large boulders of
different rock types with labels identifying each.
Clear skies greeted us the following day for the
highlight of our stay – the flight over Lake Eyre.
Doug Sprigg was our pilot for the 3 ½ hour flight.
After briefing us on the geology of Arkaroola,
he drove us to the airport, where we boarded
the high-winged Cessna. All six passengers had
a window seat, ear phones (which doubled as
ear muffs) and a microphone so that we could
talk to the pilot.
The flight took us over Arkaroola and across
the Strzelecki and Birdsville tracks. We then
tracked down Cooper Creek into Lake Eyre.
We spent about an hour criss-crossing the lake,
flying low enough to fully appreciate this huge
expanse of water. The extent of the water in the
lake visible from the plane was awe inspiring.
Doug had a wealth of knowledge and provided
a running commentary throughout the flight. He
pointed out pelican rookeries, one on the banks
of the Cooper and one on an island in Lake Eyre.
We saw the wreck of a tourist plane that had
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1: Arkaroola creek and waterhole from the air.
2: Arkaroola Village from the air.
3: Settled in at Arkaroola caravan park.
4: A sheer drop to the road – from Acacia Ridge.
5: Water water everywhere in Lake Eyre.
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Lake Harris
LakeCallabonna
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Lake Gregory
Lake Yamma Yamma(Mackillop)
Lake Acraman
Lake Gilles
LakeHart
Lake Tyrrell
Lake Maurice(Carle-Thulka)
Lake Tandou
PernattyLagoon
LakeMachattie
LakeCadibarrawirracanna
Lake Menindee
LakeVictoria
Lake Dey-Dey
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LakeHindmarsh
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Lake MindonaPopiltah Lake
Lake Bonney
Lake Etamunbanie
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Pitarpunga Lake
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Avoid Bay
Germein Bay
FowlersBay
ANXIOUS BAY
STREAKY BAY
SPENCERGULF
Lacepede Bay
DISCOVERYBAY
Hardwicke Bay
HEAD OF BIGHT
EncounterBay
GULFST VINCENT
G R E A T A U S T R A L I A N B I G H T
Cape Otway
Cape Banks
West PointCape Carnot
Cape Spencer
Cape Du CouedicCape Gantheaume
Portland Bay
StenhouseBay
MtRobe
Kata Tjuta/Mt Olga
Mt Cecil
Mt Bryan
Mt Squires
Mt Cockburn
Mt Illbillee
Mt Woodroffe
St Mary Peak
Mt Sir Thomas
Mt Remarkable
Three SistersStevenson Peak
Uluru/Ayers Rock
Freeling Heights
Haddon Corner
Cameron Corner
Poeppel Corner
C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y
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Surveyor Generals Corner
Lock
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Yunta
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Eucla
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Mimili
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Moomba
Kulwin
Ooldea
Minnipa
Abminga
Coombah
Cradock
Forrest
Beltana
Betoota
Blinman
Terowie
Forrest
Tarcoola
Balmoral
Alawoona
Cockburn
Coorabie
Wirrulla
Meringur
Windorah
Arno Bay
Poochera
Bookabie
Loongana
Wynbring
Peebinga
Maralinga
Pooncarie
Kingoonya
Carrieton
Padthaway
Silverton
Lyndhurst
Buckleboo
Innamincka
Port Kenny
Manna Hill
Birdsville
Mount Hope
Oak Valley
Oodnadatta
Iron Baron
Parachilna
Lake Bolac
Tibooburra
Robertstown
William Creek
Patchewollock
Curtin Springs
Nullarbor Motel
Kulgera
Erldunda
Kaltjiti(Fregon) Indulkana
(Iwantja)
Pukatja (Ernabella)
Olympic Dam
Giles Meteorological Station
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Monkira
Canopus
Nonning
Clayton
Mahanewo
Koonalda
Naryilco
Orientos
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Etadunna
Moonaree
Arrabury
Mount Ebenezer
Arkaroola
Idracowra
Fort Grey
Palparara
Canegrass
Curnamona
Coondambo
Todmorden
New Crown
Arckaringa
Mulga Park
Mootwingee
Murnpeowie
Mulgathing
Currawilla
Mundrabilla
Agnes Creek
Angas Downs
Moolawatana
Mulyungarie
Frome Downs
Mabel Creek
Lilla Creek
Border Downs
Bulloo Downs
Galway Downs
Lake Everard
Nappa Merrie
Durham Downs
Mount HowittGranite Downs
Wallara Ranch
Millers Creek
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie
Welbourn Hill
Cordillo Downs
Horseshoe Bend
Mount Lyndhurst
Mount Willoughby
Oakbank Outstation
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Kaniva
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ArkAroolA
come down in the lake in the early 1990s
when the pilot got too close to the water,
while apparently trying to demonstrate
the fact that it was possible to fly below
sea level.
Reluctantly, we left Arkaroola the next
day rueing the fact that we couldn’t visit the
professionally-equipped observatories at
night, as the moon was either full or near-
full each evening of our stay. That will have
to wait for our next visit!
The South Australian Government
has recently announced that it intends to
submit Arkaroola for both National and
World Heritage listing.
Fact File Getting thereArkaroola is 600km north of Adelaide, 400km north of Port Augusta, 130km east of Copley and 300km north-west of Yunta. All roads have dirt sections and can be impassable after rain. Regular coach tours operate between Adelaide and Arkaroola.
When to goSummer is a photographer’s paradise, with fiery dawns and brilliant sunsets. In autumn and winter birdlife is more evident while spring is best for brilliant displays of wildflowers.
Where to campArkaroola has 50 powered sites, unpowered sites and 300 hectares of bush camping.
Excellent amenities include hot showers, toilets and a laundry. Campers have the use of all Arkaroola’s facilities, including the swimming pool and restaurant.
More informationSix guided 4x4 tours are available, including the world-famous Ridgetop Tour and up to three astronomy tours are conducted each evening, subject to suitable viewing conditions. Scenic flights, ranging from 35 minutes to 3½ hours are available.
Arkaroola Village: Ph: 1800 676 042 or www.arkaroola.com.au
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horizonon the
more stars
Words and photos: Kara Murphy
The historic town of Charleville, in Queensland’s
mulga-rich south west Outback region, is
steadily growing its tourism offerings. But
regardless of which attractions capture your
attention during daylight hours, by night, your
focus will surely turn towards the sky.
I’ve been in Charleville just over an hour and
already I’ve manhandled a shooting star, stared
long and hard at the sun, and destroyed a perfectly
well-intentioned celestial object.
Yet, thankfully, I haven’t acquired burn marks,
eye damage, or any enemies at NASA.
No, I’ve just been exploring the Cosmos Centre,
which doubles as Charleville’s Visitor Information
Centre. Offering night observatory sessions, the
centre keeps visitors busy during daylight hours,
too, with a daily sun viewing session (through a
filtered telescope) from May–September and
displays that tell you, among other things, your
age on other planets (forget delusions of youth
on Venus... Mars is far kinder). Centre guides also
give brief talks, explaining Pluto’s recent demotion
from planet to dwarf planet and assuring dreamy
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1: Cosmos Centre Manager Jane Morgan checks out sunspots using one of the centre observatory’s three telescopes.
2: If you gaze up at the night sky without the aid of a telescope, the Jewel Box cluster looks like one faint star near the easternmost star in the Southern Cross. However, this cluster, one of several objects you might see during one of the Cosmos Centre’s night sessions, actually consists of 200 stars located 7600 light years from Earth.
3: Saturn.
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the guided convoy tour on which we’re embarking
now is one recent initiative. Interpretive signs
educate visitors on remnants of the American
Air Force’s 3500-strong presence on the 25 sq
km airport reserve during WWII; however, Jane
and her fellow guides are constantly finding new
information (sometimes thanks to tour participants
who witnessed this chapter of history), and the $6
per person tour helps bring the sites and closely
guarded military secrets to life.
To maintain an aura of suspense, I’ll keep
Charleville’s military secrets under wrap. But I
will tell you that the current Royal Flying Doctor
Service hangar, built during the American
occupation, didn’t repeat its 1990 flood activities
(providing shelter for 2300 citizens and 800 relief
workers) during the area’s most recent watery
disaster.
No, during the March 2010 floods, the
community based its evacuation centre in another
location. And, in 2011, as floods ravaged much
of the rest of the state, Charleville remained
above water. The now infamous rains left a visible
sorts such as myself that stars do not, in fact,
‘shoot’ around our atmosphere: spotting one is
more a matter of patience than luck. These fleeting
trails of light are actually meteoroids – often
pebble-size particles of debris with shining trails
of gases and melted particles; the bit that impacts
Earth without being destroyed is a meteorite.
My extremely knowledgeable guide, Jane
Morgan (also the Centre Manager), handed me
a stony iron meteorite, remarkably heavy for its
size – I wouldn’t want to be plonked in the head
with it, that’s for sure. Squashing any potential
agoraphobia, Jane noted that only 21 people
worldwide have died as a result of being hit by
meteorites in the last 100 years. You’d have to
be really unlucky...
Having (regrettably) resisted the onsite Cosmic
Cafe’s cheesecake, made with ‘cheese from the
moon’, I finish my Cosmic Cappuccino, wiping the
remaining star-decorated froth from my upper lip
as I follow my guide out the door.
Jane and other area stakeholders have been
introducing new tourism products each year, and
Stars shine at Charleville day and night
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56 | Go Camping Australia
souvenir, though, carpeting the brilliantly red-
floored area surrounding the town with eerily
dry, olive-coloured grasses.
The Charleville Mulgalands Environmental
Park, due to open in 2012, will give visitors an
opportunity to explore the landscape via a series
of walking tracks through mulga forests and
tussock grass plains. Another potential project
could involve brolga and emu spotting on a
property 35km from town.
Eager to tread along vegetated trails and view
a broader range of area wildlife, I’m sorry to miss
these adventures.
I’m grateful to learn, though, via the town’s Bilby
Experience, that the greater bilby, a long-eared
endangered marsupial, has enjoyed a boost in
population in Currawinya National Park (about
five hours south of Charleville), which is fitted with
a 25 sq km electrified, predator-proof bilby fence.
The fence was constructed in 2003 with monies
from Charleville’s Save the Bilby Fund, with the
help of conservation volunteers.
Leaving the Bilby Experience’s bilby enclosure,
Jane and I set off for the Cosmos Centre’s evening
session. However, the sky’s revelations begin
before we’ve pulled out of the parking area.
Suspended low in the sky, gracefully bloated
and utterly exposed, is an almost new moon, its
bountiful ghosted orb fringed with the slimmest
illuminated crescent I’ve ever seen.
‘That’s earthshine,’ says Jane. ‘It’s the amount
of light from our sun that the Earth reflects back
to the moon.’
The phenomenon is most visible immediately
before or after a new moon, but, in spite of all the
times I’ve raised my eyes towards the heavens,
I’ve never seen anything quite like this. It’s as
if our beloved satellite has altered its orbit,
travelling closer to Charleville than anywhere
else, just so it can spend a few stolen moments
basking in memories of the Outback’s red glow
– and perhaps dropping a few precious morsels
of moon cheese – above the silent watch of a few
sleepy streetlights.
By the time we’ve finished our two kilometre
drive to the centre, the moon has disappeared,
once again giving millions of stars centre stage.
1
2
53 4
Discover
1: Camperscongregatearoundanopencampfireat the Evening Star Tourist Park every evening.
2: Charleville’sNationalParksandWildlifeofficekeeps approximately 15 yellow-footed rock wallabies in an onsite enclosure as part of a breeding program.
3: Happy camper Marion shows off one of the ‘marriage friendly’ drive through sites at the Evening Star Tourist Park.
4: The entrance to Charleville’s Bailey Bar Caravan Park, located in town. The park offers regular lamb on spit dinners and yabby races.
5: A weather balloon release (and subsequent examination of balloon data) is part of Charleville’s Weather Balloon Station tour.
54-57 _Discover Stars.indd 56 29/05/12 3:40 PM
Go Camping Australia | 57
BE AMAZED...Visit our observatory!
The Cosmos Centre & ObservatoryCharleville OUTBACK QUEENSLAND
Phone: (07) 4654 7771Email: [email protected]
Hay
Paro
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Saxby
Cape
Neb
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Palmer
Eyre
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Walsh
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Campaspe
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Wenlock
Barcoo
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CREEK
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rdekin
Narra
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Castlereagh
Mehi
Bulloo
Cloncurry
Rive
r
Lynd
River
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Eyre
Gwydir
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Dumaresq
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Isaac
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burto
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MITCH
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Barwon
Macquarie
DIAMANTINA
Namoi
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BU
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EKIN
Mac
kenzie
Daw
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CO
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Leichhardt
Balonne
Riv
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Georgina
Norm
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Condamine
RIVER
Lake Dalrymple
Lake Kajarabie
LAKEEYRE
NORTH
LAKE
TORRENS
LAKEFROME
Lake EyreSouth
Lake Blanche
IslandLagoon
Sylvester Lake
LakeCallabonna
Bilpa MoreaClaypan
Lake Gregory
Lake Yamma Yamma(Mackillop)
Lake Galilee
LakeHart
PernattyLagoon
LakeMachattie
LakeCadibarrawirracanna
LakeMaraboon
LakeBuchanan
Lake Etamunbanie
SaltLake
Moonda Lake
LakeYounghusband
Peery Lake
Lake Wyara
Lake Mulapula
Terewah OrNarran Lake
Lake Wivenhoe
689
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330304
472
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750
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1374
1168 1586
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1622
1148
Saumarez Reef
Marion Reef
Osprey Reef
Frederick Reef
Bougainville Reef
Herald Cays
Lihou Reef and Cays
Holmes Reef
Flinders Reefs
War
rior
Ree
f
GROOTE EYLANDT
FRASER ISLAND
MORNINGTONISLAND
Hinchinbrook Island
Vanderlin Island
Moa (Clarke) I
Bribie Island
Marchinbar Island
Bentinck Island
Badu (Mulgrave) I
Prince Of Wales(Muralag) I
Saibai I
North Stradbroke Island
Raragala Island
Boigu I
Townshend Island
Magnetic Island
Great Palm Island
Great Keppel Island
Mabuiag I
Maria Island
Darnley(Erub) I
Murray Islands
Lady Elliott I
Green Island
West I
Whitsunday Island
Moreton Island
North Island
Guluwuru Island
Hayman IslandGloucester Island
Curtis I
Bremer Island
South Stradbroke I
Scawfell Island
Lizard Island
Dunk Island
Heron Island
Lloyd Bay
HERVEYBAY
Temple Bay
ArnhemBay
HALIFAX BAY
BROAD SOUND
Caledon Bay
Port Clinton
Weymouth Bay
LIMMEN BIGHT
MelvilleBay Port Musgrave
ALBATROSS BAY
Port Bradshaw
ShelburneBay
Newcastle Bay
Rockingham Bay
SHOALWATER BAY
Bowling Green Bay
G U L F
O F
C A R P E N T A R I A
PRINCESSCHARLOTTE
BAY
Moreton Bay
Cape York
Hay Point
Cape Byron
Sandy Cape
Cape Arnhem
Waddy Point
Abbot Point
Cape Moreton
Cape Clinton
Duyfken Point
Cape Beatrice
Cape Keerweer
Cape Flattery
Lookout Point
Cape Melville
Cape Direction
Cape Grenville
Cape Wilberforce
Upsta
rt Bay
Saraji
Keppel Bay
Port Curtis
CURTIS CHANNEL
Horn (Narupai) I
Milyakburra
Cape Tribulation
MtRobe
Mt Norna
Mt Abbot
Mt Elliot
Mt Walker
Mt Hutton
Bald Hill
Mt Carter
Mt WilliamMt Hogarth
Mt Stewart
Mt Halifax
Mt Drummond
Mt Tabletop
Mt Drummond
Mt Finnigan
St Mary Peak
Consuelo PeakThree Sisters
Thornton Peak
Round MtnMt Booroondarra
Kerrs Table Mount
Bairds Table Mount
Bartle Frere
Mt Unbunmaroo(Black Mount)
Freeling Heights
Haddon Corner
Cameron Corner
Poeppel Corner
C H A N N E L C O U N T R Y
NORTHUMBERLAND
ISLANDS
Nebo
Eulo
Coen
Peak Downs
Repulse Bay
Flind
ers En
trance
G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F
G R E A T B A R R I E R R
E E F
Robinson River
Nelia
GumluClare
Laura
Tilpa
Garah
Hebel
Emmet
Comet
Wowan
Louth
Yaraka
Yetman
Marree
Anakie
Malbon
Quamby
Dalbeg
Morven
JundahBanana
Yaamba
Kynuna
Moomba
Bollon
Cracow
Moonie
Paluma
Ogmore
Byrock
Rowena
Carinda
Mingela
Dulacca
Adavale
Kinrola
Koumala
Duchess
Gilliat
Prairie
Bellata
Bonshaw
Thallon
Wyandra
Cheepie
Callide
Jericho
Morella
Carmila
Almaden
Pilliga
Beltana
Betoota
Kajabbi
Blinman
Kidston
Dajarra
CooladdiWestgate Guluguba
Yandaran
Newlands
Quambone
Enngonia
Isisford
Yalleroi
Corfield
Stamford
Forsayth
Daintree
Bedourie
McKinlay
Coolabah
Eromanga
Toompine
CoolataiCumborah
Windorah
Gwabegar
Nymboida
Pentland
Arrilalah
Goonyella
Maxwelton
Blackbull
Wanaaring
Rolleston
Port Alma
Middleton
Woodstock
Chillagoe
Urandangi
Greenvale
Condamine
Baryulgil
Meandarra
Lyndhurst
Gunpowder
Innamincka
Coppabella
Ravenswood
Hungerford
Nindigully
Kumbarilla
Glenmorgan
Mungallala
Stonehenge
Ilfracombe
Einasleigh
Birdsville
Burramurra
Yantabulla
Muttaburra
Abergowrie
Elura Mine
Parachilna
Tibooburra
Marlborough
Bogantungan
Mount Perry
St LawrenceBlair Athol
Mount Molloy
Weilmoringle
BalfesCreek
Fords Bridge
Torrens Creek
Gilbert River
Phosphate Hill
Mount Surprise
Lakeland
Burren Junction
SouthBlackwater
Olympic Dam
Captain Billy Landing
Andoom
Bambaroo
Homestead
Mount Coolon
GOWAN RA
PEAK RA
AUBU
RN R
A
MC
GR
EG
OR
RA
Palm Islands
Whitsunday Group
WELLESLEY ISLANDS
CUMBERLAND ISLANDS
SIR EDWARD PELLEW GROUP
Lindeman Group
TORRES STRAIT
CAPE YORKPENINSULA
GOVEPENINSULA
ENDEAVOUR STR
AIT
WESSEL IS
W
inchelsea I
Flinders Group
Capricorn Group
JER
VOIS
RA
AN
DA
MO
OKA
RA
S
DI V
I DI N
GR
AN
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GR
EA
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DI V
I DI N
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E
R
AN
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DIV
I DI N
G
GR
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WA
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AB
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SELWYN RANGE
MC
ILWR
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RA
NEW
CA
STLE R
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GR
EGO
RY
RANGE
RA
CA
RD
WELL
LEICH
HARDT
RANGE
CLARKERANGE
RA
NG
E
DRU
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ON
D
CO
NN
OR
S RA
BR
OA
DS
OU
ND
RA
WARREGO
CHES
TERT
ON
RA
CARNARVON RA
EXPE
DIT
ION
BA
NA
NA
RA
DAWES RA
RAN
GE
GREY
BARR
IER
RA
NG
ES
MCPHERSONRA
RA
NEW ENGLAND
G U L F
C O U N T R Y
DARLING DOWNS
TIRARI DESERT
S I M P S O N D E S E R T
T A B L E L A N D
S T R Z E L E C K I
D E S E R T
S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T
Q U E E N S L A N D
Buckingham Bay
Port L
angdon
Cumberland Channel
CAPRICORN CHANNEL
B A R K L Y
Isle Woodah
Bick
erton I
Centre I
RA
DENHAM
NA
RR
IEN R
A
RANGE
RAN
GE
DAW
SON
RA
BUR
NE
TT RA
MASTERMANS
WA
RR
UM
BUN
GLE
MO
ON
BI RA
NANDEWAR RA
RAN
GES
Arno
Cork
Oban
Leura
Tongo
Mulka
Junee
Kimba
Cobham
Marqua
Waitan
Yakara
Teilta
Tilcha
Lerida
Iffley
Almora
Dunbar
Durrie
Soudan
Rokeby
Leumeah
Cowarie
Westlea
Retreat
Monkira
Jervois
Corinda
Barenya
UndillaCanobie
Vanrook
Clayton
LongtonTarbrax
Bulimba
Benmara
Merluna
Mahanewo
Tartulla
Koolatah
Yarrawin
Ranken
Caiwarro
Naryilco
Orientos
Trinidad
Glengyle
Surbiton
Cassilis
AnnitowaGeorgina
Downs
Burleigh
Morstone
Lorraine
Wondoola
Bowthorn Barwidgi
Inkerman
Etadunna
Humeburn
Arrabury
Eastmere
Wambiana
Lolworth
Toolebuc
Highbury
Drumduff
Yarraden
Bramwell
Innisvale
Arkaroola
Fort GreyBundaleer
Tobermory
Thylungra
Palparara Nandowrie
Connemara
Vergemont Peak Vale
Aberfoyle
Kamileroi
EsmeraldaRobinhood
Mittiebah
Lawn Hill
Bing Bong
Woolerina
Curnamona
Yancannia
Ambathala
Collabara
Lake Nash
Lyndhurst
Gallipoli
Seven Emu
Lakefield
Avon Downs
Tobermorey
Frankfield
Yelvertoft
Mootwingee
Nockatunga
Castlevale
Warbreccan
Coorabulka
Springvale
Lucy Creek
Ooratippra
Thorntonia
Claraville
Inverleigh Strathmore
Murnpeowie
Currawilla
YarrowmereChatsworth
Carandotta
Dalgonally
Wando Vale
Meadowbank
Armraynald
Alexandria
Strathburn
Moolawatana
Murra Murra
Durrandella
Breadalbane
Argadargada
Numil Downs
Riversleigh
Donors Hill
Delta Downs
TiltagoonahMulyungarie
Frome Downs
Moray Downs
Natal Downs
Malbon Vale
Saxby Downs
Bluff Downs
Maggieville
Wollogorang
MallapunyahSprings
Strathhaven
Violet Vale
Border Downs
Shelburne Bay
Mount Douglas
Thurloo Downs
Millers Creek
DynevorDowns
Clifton Hills
Pandie Pandie Keeroongooloo
Tarlton Downs
GregoryDowns
Saltbush Park
Austral Downs
Miranda Downs
Calvert Hills
Marina Plains
Batavia Downs
Lorella Spring
Mount Margaret
Kangaroo Hills
Abingdon Downs
Rutland Plains
Cordillo Downs
Mount Sturgeon
Chudleigh Park
Mount MulgraveMcArthur River
DavenportDowns
Mount Lyndhurst
Cresswell Downs
MountRavenswood
Diamantina Lakes
Roxborough Downs
Buckingham Downs
Mount Elsie
Augustus Downs
Mount Mulyah
Bulloo Downs
Galway Downs
Marion Downs
Glenormiston
Strathfillan
Nappa Merrie
Durham Downs
Mount Howitt
Barkly Downs
Westmoreland
Wrotham Park
Tara
Bell
Weipa
Miles
Tieri
Guyra
Urunga
Sarina
Bourke
Kyogle
Wondai
Howard
Aramac
Winton
Boulia
Cooroy
Wandoan
Capella
Gayndah
Wee Waa
Quilpie
Mossman
Clifton
Bonalbo
Ashford
Woomera
Baradine
Jandowae
Mitchell
Eidsvold
Theodore
Richmond
Silkwood
Dimbulah
Emu Park
Warialda
Wallumbilla
Bellingen
St George
Longreach
Gracemere
Cloncurry
Home Hill
Umbakumba
Numbulwar
Hope ValeKowanyama
Andamooka
Woolgoolga
Augathella
Barcaldine
Georgetown
Pormpuraaw
Dirranbandi
Tin Can Bay
Julia Creek
Roxby Downs
Collarenebri
White Cliffs
Esk
Giru
Oakey
Tambo
Bluff
Tiaro
Surat
Monto
Moura
Alpha
Tully
Texas
Iluka
Boonah
Uralla
Kilcoy
Yuleba
Injune
Taroom
Dysart
Marian
Ingham
Bamaga
Murgon
Tingha
Goondiwindi
Bingara
Babinda
Attunga
Manilla
Walgett
Glenden
Halifax
Croydon
Karumba
Aurukun
Gin Gin
Proston
Nanango
Maclean
Dorrigo
Barraba
Cardwell
Delungra
Thangool
Boggabri
NarrabriBundarra
Goodooga MungindiYelarbon
BlackallCalliope
Duaringa
Clermont
Seaforth
Cooktown
Yirrkala
Angurugu
Rubyvale
Baralaba
Childers
Yarraman
Jimboomba
Biggenden
Wilcannia
Coonamble
Bendemeer
Glenreagh
InglewoodKillarney
Hughenden
Normanton
Camooweal
Doomadgee
Goondiwindi
Nhulunbuy
Alyangula
HerbertonRavenshoe
Burketown
Springsure
Brewarrina Evans Head
Stanthorpe
Cunnamulla
Beaudesert
Millmerran
Pittsworth
Blackwater
Walkerston
Proserpine
Gordonvale
Borroloola
Woorabinda
Mundubbera
CrowsNest
Wallangarra
Leigh Creek
Mullumbimby
Charleville
Miriam Vale
Palm Island
Middlemount
AlstonvilleTenterfield
Mount Morgan
Finch Hatton
Ocean Shores
Thargomindah
Cecil Plains
Mount Larcom
Airlie Beach
Mount Garnet
Collinsville
Tannum Sands
Mission Beach
Lockhart River
Thursday Island
Hamilton Island
Lightning Ridge
Nambour
Ballina
Bargara
Ayr
Roma
Bowen
GoondiwindiTalwoodToobeah
Chinchilla
Deepwater
Bushland Beach
Moree
Dalby
Yamba
Casino
Gatton
Gympie
Grafton
Warwick
Biloela
Emerald Yeppoon
Mareeba
SawtellGunnedah
Armidale
Inverell
Bongaree
Kingaroy
Deeragun
Atherton
Moranbah
Byron Bay
Innisfail
Mount Isa
Caboolture
Glen Innes
Maryborough
Murwillumbah
Port DouglasTrinity Beach
ChartersTowers
BUNDABERG
MACKAY
CAIRNS
LISMORE
GLADSTONE
CALOUNDRA
HERVEY BAY
ROCKHAMPTON
COFFS HARBOUR
NOOSA HEADS
TOOWOOMBA
MAROOCHYDORE
Deepwater
Deepwater
TOWNSVILLE
TWEED HEADS
IPSWICH
GOLD COAST
BRISBANE
Alpurrurulam
Wujal Wujal
Balgal Beach
Midge Point
Byfield
Agnes Water
Gununa
Misima I
LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO
D'ENTRECASTEAUX ISLAN
DS
200
2000
4000
2000
4000
4000
200
2000
4000
200
200
2000
4000
2002000
4000
2000
200
4000
2000
200
200
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A R A F U R A S E A
C O R A L S E AS
OU
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P
AC
IF
IC
O
CE
AN
SO
UT
H
PA
CI
FI
C
OC
EA
N
S O L O M O N S E A
Sudest I
Muyua (Woodlark) I
Kiriwina ITrobriand Is
Goodenough I
Fergusson I
Normanby I
P A P U A N E W G U I N E A
Fact File Getting thereCharleville is approximately 742km north west of Brisbane. The Warrego Highway offers the most direct driving route. All highways and major roads in the Outback are sealed.
When to goCharleville swells with campers and caravans from around Easter until just before the Christmas holidays. Spring, winter and autumn offer the most comfortable conditions, though the area’s low humidity means the lofty summer temps are kinder than you might expect.
CampingCaravan parks with campsites abound in and around Charleville. The Evening Star (www.eveningstar.com.au), located 8km from town on a 33,000 acre working cattle station, boasts station tours, a licensed bar, and a nightly campfire. The newest area parks include the Charleville Bush (www.travelwest.com.au), a couple of kilometres west of town, which doesn’t allow smoking, pets or children, and the soon-to-be-opened Red Lizard, 6km south. In-town parks such as the Bailey Bar (www.charlevillebaileybar.com.au) and the Cobb & Co may lack the spaciousness of parks further afield, but they boast a shorter drive to the Cosmos Centre’s evening shows (and the former organises yabby races on Wednesday evenings).
Further information:Queensland’s Outback: www.adventureoutback.com.au Murweh Shire Council: www.murweh.qld.gov.au © Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012
Charleville
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58 | Go Camping Australia
OutbackTop
campsWords and photos: Lee Atkinson
Home Valley StationYou can be forgiven for feeling as if the scenery looks
familiar when you drive up to the entrance of Home
Valley Station in the Kimberley; especially if you’ve
seen the Baz Luhrmann movie, Australia, starring
Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman. It’s these ranges
that form the backdrop to the dramatic cattle muster
scenes movie. Besides horse riding trails and cattle
musters there are guided barramundi fishing tours of
the billabongs and rivers, canoeing and birdwatching
tours, boat cruises, a range of 4WD tours and, of course,
an Australia movie tour, where you can visit all the
sites on the station that inspired Luhrmann, including
Jackman’s Jump-up and Kidman’s Krossing. You can
set up your own camp at one of the powered sites near
the main resort complex, or if you prefer a bit more of a
wilderness experience, and don’t want to mix it with the
other guests at the homestead’s Dusty Bar and Grill at
night, you can roll out your swag beside the Pentecost
River, 4km from the homestead, where crocodiles sun
themselves on the banks and sharks cruise the water.
Home Valley Station is on the Gibb River Road approximately 90 minutes’ drive from Kununurra (120km). Tip: Home Valley’s cattle brand has become the station’s nickname – roadside signs will point you to HV8, not Home Valley. www.homevalley.com.au
UluruAs far as iconic Outback locations go, it doesn’t get any
bigger or better than Uluru. It doesn’t matter how many
photos you’ve seen of Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the red
centre, your first glimpse of Uluru will remain in your
memory forever. Join the throng of awestruck travellers
who gather like religious pilgrims to watch the rock turn
red, then purple, then blue and finally black in the setting
sun on any given evening, and it’s highly unlikely you’ll
hear a disappointed complaint among them. Australia’s
most identifiable icon is a massive red rounded monolith
rising 348m above the surrounding plains that reaches
6km below the earth’s surface. The circumference
measures more than 9km. Its sister rock formation, Kata
Tjuta, (The Olgas) which means ‘many heads’, is made
up of 36 huge, weathered domes spread over 35 square
kilometres and is just as impressive. You cannot camp
in the national park, but the Ayers Rock Campground
has powered caravan sites, shaded grassy tent sites and
great amenities. At $36 for a non-powered site ($41 for
power) it’s not the cheapest campground, but watching
the sun rise or set over the rock is priceless. You’ll need
to book well in advance.
Ph: 1300 134 044
www.ayersrockresort.com.au/arrcamp/
Ayers Rock Resort is 445km by sealed road from Alice Springs. The resort is 18km from Uluru.
Thinking about an Outback experience? Here are 10 destinations that tick all the boxes every time.
Outback icons you won’t want to miss
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Cameron CornerIf you’ve ever found yourself wishing you could be in three places at once then you’re in luck. At Cameron Corner in far western NSW you can put one foot in NSW, the other in Queensland and wave your arms around in South Australia, all at the same time. Visit in summer and you can travel back and forth through time. Thanks to daylight saving, the three states are all on different time zones.
Time your trip for New Year’s Eve and you can get three new year countdowns for the price of one: party in Queensland, step across to SA half an hour later for a second cheer and 30 minutes later you can do it all again in NSW.
The point where the three states meet is marked with a post, and has become a favourite photo stop for most Outback travellers. While there’s not much at Cameron Corner, just the Corner Store on the Queensland side, like all good corner shops it sells everything. It does have powered and unpowered caravan sites and a golf course. Play all nine holes in three states through and you’ll earn a certificate. The real reason to head out this way is the red desert scenery of the surrounding Strzelecki Desert. If you are lucky enough to be here after the rain has been and gone, the dunes are carpeted in wildflowers.
Cameron Corner is 140km north west of Tibooburra. You’ll need a 4WD. www.outbacknsw.com.au/cameron_corner_store.htm
Undara Volcanic National ParkThe Undara Lava Tubes in the heart of the Savannah Gulf Country
are part of the longest lava flow from a single volcanic crater on Earth.
These lava tubes, which extend more than 160km, were formed around
190,000 years ago, when a large volcano erupted violently, spewing
molten lava over the surrounding landscape. The lava, which has been
estimated at 233 cubic kilometres or enough to fill Sydney Harbour in
just six days, flowed rapidly down a dry riverbed. The top outer layer
cooled and formed a crust while the molten lava below drained outwards
leaving behind a series of hollow tubes. There are 68 separate sections
of lava tube that have been identified from more than 300 lava tube roof
collapses, and more than 164 volcanoes in the area. Undara Volcanic
National Park is a ‘closed’ national park, which means you can only explore
the lava tubes on a guided tour (high carbon dioxide levels make the lava
tube area dangerous for visitors without an experienced guide) and no
camping is allowed. Undara Experience has several guided tours available.
Undara Experience, set on what was originally Rosella Plains Station, a
cattle station owned and run by the Collins family (the first white settlers
in the district) since 1862, has a large campground with powered drive-
through caravan sites and good amenities, including a pool and licensed
restaurant. Bookings essential: call 1800 990 992. www.undara.com.au
Undara is 275km west of Cairns on sealed roads.
Cameron Corner
Home Valley Station
Undara Volcanic National Park
Top 10
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60 | Go Camping Australia
Kings CanyonThe western end of the George Gill
Ranges rises sharply from the surrounding
flat desert plains, producing a rugged
landscape of ranges, rockholes and
gorges, the best known of all being Kings
Canyon in Watarrka National Park. Rising
up 100m to a plateau of rocky domes,
Kings Canyon is home to one of the most
dramatic short walks in the Outback – the
Rim Walk – where you can look down
over the rim into the chasm formed by the
sheer-sided red sandstone walls of the
canyon. The best time to tackle the 6km
walk is either early in the morning, before
the heat and flies begin to fray tempers,
or late in the afternoon, when the setting
sun lights up the sheer sandstone walls
of the canyon to their best advantage.
The first half-hour or so is a lung-busting,
muscle-destroying climb up the side of
the canyon, but if you can make it that
far, the remainder of the two to three-
hour walk is an easy stroll around the rim
of the canyon. You cannot camp in the
national park, but Kings Canyon Resort,
which is just 7km from the park entrance,
has powered caravan and camping sites.
Bookings are essential, call 1300 134
044; www.kingscanyonresort.com.au.
You can also stay at Kings Creek Station
(the largest exporter of wild camels in
Australia), 36km from the national park
entrance. Powered and unpowered sites
are available as well as safari-style cabins.
Ph: (08) 8956 7474
www.kingscreekstation.com.au
Kings Canyon is 330km west of Alice Springs via the unsealed Mereenie Loop Road, which is not suitable for caravans. Sealed road access is via Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort), 305km to the south west.
Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve The Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu) are a collection of
gigantic (some are four metres high and 13-33 metres
wide) rounded precariously balanced granite boulders
that make for some great photo opportunities. The area
is an important meeting place and rich in ‘dreaming’ sites
for local Aboriginal people; in the Aboriginal mythology
the marbles are the eggs of the rainbow serpent and
are regarded as having extraordinary powers, and many
dreamtime stories and traditions of the Warumungu,
Kaytetye and Alyawarre Aboriginal people are linked
with this area. Ownership was officially handed back
to the traditional owners in late 2008. There are some
great self-guided walks around the reserve, beyond
the famous two boulders that appear in all the photos,
and the area is well worth exploring. There is a basic
bush camping area with fire places and pit toilets at the
southern end of the Reserve. No water or firewood
is provided, and you should come well equipped. The
campground has good views of the eastern side of the
marbles, so try and wake up early to see the marbles
glow at sunrise.
The Devils Marbles are 110km south of Tennant Creek on the Stuart Highway; approximately 393km north of Alice Springs.
Finke Gorge National Park This beautiful but remote national park
west of Alice Springs is home to Palm
Valley, a beautiful oasis-like pocket of
around 3000 red cabbage palm trees.
It’s 4WD access only and the last 16km
follows the sandy bed of the usually
dry Finke River, which means it may be
inaccessible after heavy rains. It can
be hard going and is for experienced
four-wheel-drivers only with high
clearance vehicles. The campground
has hot showers, gas barbecues and
there are a range of good walking trails
with information about the mythology
of Western Arrernte Aboriginal culture.
A favourite is the 20-minute climb to
Kalaranga Lookout which has spectacular
views of the rock amphitheatre encircled
by rugged cliffs. In Palm Valley itself, the
two-hour Mpulungkinya Walk winds
through the palms and across the plateau.
Finke Gorge National Park is 138km west of Alice Springs via Hermannsburg.
Kings Canyon
Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve
Finke Gorge National Park
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Coongie Lakes National Park Coongie Lakes National Park is listed as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, comprising of channels, waterholes, lakes, shallow floodplains and swamps which attract an enormous amount of waterbirds. Unlike most Outback lakes, Coongie Lakes contain water most of the time, although the surrounding ephemeral wetlands fill only after rain, which can mean that access to the park is often cut. The area is an important spiritual site for the Aboriginal people who inhabited the area. There are a number of superb lakeside camping areas, although facilities are limited to pit toilets, but be warned, it’s such a beautiful place that you’ll probably end up staying twice as long as you planned, especially if you like birdwatching, swimming or canoeing (BYO canoe or kayak). No generators or campfires are permitted, so carry a fuel stove. It’s four-wheel-drive access only and you will need to have a valid Desert Parks Pass to visit this park. These cost $125 per vehicle and include a useful information pack and detailed maps and are valid for 12 months. Call 1800 816 078 or visit www.parks.sa.gov.au
Coongie Lakes National Park is located 100km north-west of Innamincka. Access is along the Strzelecki Track, via Leigh Creek.
Big Desert Wilderness More famous for its dramatic coastline, snow-capped mountains and
fertile river valleys, Victoria’s not often associated with Outback and
desert wilderness, but the Big Desert Wilderness Park (Victoria’s first
declared wilderness area) is a large area of inhospitable terrain that has
been left largely untouched by Europeans. More than 50 species of
lizards and snakes and 93 species of birds have been recorded in the park
including the extremely rare western whipbird. There are campsites at
Big Billy Bore, the Springs, Moonlight Tank and Broken Bucket Reserve
along the Nhill-Murrayville Road. You must carry your own drinking
water and the park is best avoided during the middle of summer when
high temperatures make bushwalking unsafe. There are no tracks into the
park and you must walk in from the Nhill-Murrayville Road (a rough, dry
weather road only), separated from the park by a 5km strip of public land.
Big Desert Wilderness is around 200km south of Mildura.
Goongarrie National Park A former pastoral station set amongst arid plains and mulga north of
Kalgoorlie, Goongarrie offers a fascinating glimpse into remote station
life. You can camp at the old homestead or shearers’ quarters – neither
has power but both have wood chip heaters for hot showers and well
equipped kitchens; the homestead is particularly ideal for groups. Explore
the park by car, or take a day trip to nearby Menzies and Lake Ballard, a
large white salt lake in an otherwise featureless semi-desert 55km west
of the tiny township that is home to one of the country’s most intriguing
and otherworldly art installations. Called “Inside Australia”, the work
is by internationally renowned artist, Antony Gormley. Gormley made
laser body scans of 51 of the Menzies locals and then made casts that
are life-size in height but are shrunk by two-thirds in the width. The
resulting stick-like statues, cast in a mixture of iron, molybdenum, iridium,
vanadium and titanium, now rusty and pocked from the surrounding
harsh salt environment, are scattered over 10 square kilometres of the
salt lake, each one standing alone around about 750 metres apart from its
neighbour, so wherever you turn, there’s another on the horizon. It’s the
last place you expect to find world famous art, but the WA goldfields have
always been about finding unexpected troves of treasure.
Goongarrie National Park is 90km north of Kalgoorlie.
Lee Atkinson is the author of the Australian Road Trips Smartphone and iPad app (available on iTunes and
Android Market). Download it from www.ozyroadtripper.com.au
Lake Ballard Statues
Big Desert Wilderness
Coongie Lakes National Park
Top 10
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Outbackmeets the sea
Words and photos: Martin Auldist
Tourism pamphlets universally proclaim that Exmouth,
Western Australia, is where “the Outback meets
the sea”.
Despite this somewhat corny catchcry, the eclectic mix
of desert landscapes and ocean vistas is admittedly alluring.
This is a place where spinifex, red sand and rugged rocky
outcrops tumble down to meet turquoise bays and glaringly
white beaches, where Sturt’s Desert Pea grows in the table
drains near the boat ramp, and where kangaroos graze
amongst giant anthills only metres from the crashing surf.
All in all, Exmouth is a terrific holiday spot for any number
of reasons, including the camping, the wildlife, the weather
and the breathtaking scenery. Personally, however, I
have been drawn across the Nullarbor on more than one
occasion for a different reason. Fishing!
Initially established to support a nearby US Naval Base,
Exmouth is a small, friendly, holiday town on the north-
central coast of Western Australia. It has a permanent
population of less than 3,000, but the area has nearly
200,000 visitors a year, many of them anglers – and for
good reason. Quite simply, the area offers some of the best,
most accessible fishing in the country.
The focus of the marine waters to the west of the small
peninsula on which Exmouth sits is the Ningaloo Marine
Park, which encompasses the pristine Ningaloo coral reef.
This reef, stretching some 300km down the coast and at
times within swimming distance of the sand, is home to
a remarkable diversity of marine life. Humpback whales,
dolphins, sea turtles, manta rays and whale sharks all
occur in great numbers. The fishing, too, is as diverse as it
is spectacular. Whether you’re into ocean trolling for big
game, inshore light tackle game fishing, saltwater fly fishing,
bottom-bouncing for reef fish, or shore-based rock and
beach fishing, you will find something you like at Exmouth.
1
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1: Wahoo provided some spectacular action on 10kg outfits outside Ningaloo reef. This one is displayed by Melbourne-based angler Steve Pettenon.
2: There are several good boat ramps in the Exmouth area. This one is at Tantabiddy.
3: The waters off Exmouth are Shark City. This is a small bronze whaler that was released unharmed. Bigger specimens exist here too, so it’s wise to get your fish on board quickly, before the Razor Gang arrives.
4: There is beach access at many points along the west coast. Double check local regulations to make sure fishing is permitted.
had best success with red and
white Magnum Rapalas, as
well as pink and chrome Halco
Laser Pro 190s, in both deep
and shallow running varieties.
We fished three lures from the
transome at varying distances
behind the boat. Trolling at around
6 knots in a zig-zag pattern across
the drop-off from a depth of 25m out
to 40m and back again usually delivered
results.
Mostly you will get away with 10 or 15kg trolling outfits.
We used Penn and Abu overhead reels combined with
suitably partnered off-the-shelf rods. We tied a short
double in the monofilament mainline, and connected that
to either a wind-on trace or a length of Jinkai trace of 60 to
80lb breaking strain. Finally, a wire trace of 80lb breaking
strain linked the trace to the lure. We learned the hard
way to pay attention to detail: these are powerful fish
that don’t give you a second chance – so make sure you
rig up properly.
For those with the billfish bug, sailfish and marlin are
common captures when the water temperature rises. This
would probably be one of the easiest places for everyday
anglers to catch one because you won’t necessarily have
to travel too far offshore.
When playing fish it pays to get them into the boat
quickly. This place can be Shark City! We lost several
great fish to the Razor Gang and it’s an awful feeling to
wind in just a head. You’re better off taking your chances,
cranking down the drag and getting your fish in as quickly
as you dare. If it gets off, so be it, at least it will survive to
fight again another day.
2
4
3
6
Go Fish
Getting thereLet’s not beat around the bush, Exmouth is a long way
from just about everywhere. In fact if you were to mark
an “x” on a map of Australia that was as far away from the
major centres of Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane as you
could get, you would end up marking a spot pretty close
to Exmouth. This angler’s El Dorado is around 1300km
north of Perth, but there is a good, flat and fairly straight
bitumen highway all the way from the WA capital though,
so the distance is not as bad as it sounds. There are daily
flights from the eastern states to Perth, where you could
get a connecting flight to Exmouth or hire a car. I got the
feeling, though, that many visitors to Exmouth are on their
way around Australia.
Stepping outsideSurveys show that 90 per cent of fish caught in the region
are landed from a boat. In particular, there is blue ribbon
ocean fishing available on the outer side of the reef – which
being a fringing reef is usually not very far from shore.
Access to the Indian Ocean is easiest and safest via the
North Passage. This is a break in the reef just north of
Tantabiddy boat ramp, and the safe route is marked by a
combination of buoys and markers on shore. You should
get local information on current conditions, however this
passage is navigable in most tides. En route to the ocean
outside, you’ll get spectacular views of the waves breaking
over the outer reef. It’s an awesome display of power and
a reminder not to get too close.
Outside the reef, the open ocean provides virtually
endless trolling opportunities. Towing bibbed lures is likely
to turn up barracuda, Spanish and shark mackerel, yellowfin
tuna and, if you’re lucky, some big wahoo. Cobia and dolphin
fish are also possibilities. My fishing companions and I have
Spinifex and red sand meet turquoise bays and white beaches in
the Nullarbor
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Bottom fishing is also popular outside the reef.
Spangled emperor (known locally as ‘nor-west
snapper’) and the highly prized red emperor are
the primary targets. There are also many other
reef species that can be caught, including pink
snapper, coral trout, Robinson’s sea bream and
the peculiar long-spined snapper.
The best technique for the reef species is to
drift while bouncing baits of cut pilchard or fresh
fillet. On most days a sea anchor will be required
to slow the drift. We fished between 40 and 80m
of water, using paternoster rigs tied in heavy Jinkai
trace. Heavy sinkers ensured the baits stayed on
the bottom, while main lines of gelspun or braid
increased the sensitivity of bite detection.
Inside the reefThe sheltered waters inside the reef are ideal for
fishing from small to medium-sized boats or even
kayaks. We had some great sessions anchored
only a few metres from the coral, fishing light gear
for gold-spotted trevally. A small berley trail of
pilchard pieces really fired up these hard-fighting
fish and produced some of the hottest action
of the trip. Fish to 3kg were caught by floating
unweighted pilchard baits down the berley trail,
but this soon became too easy. We also caught
them on small metal slices, soft plastics (100mm
Squidgie fish proved very effective), and on fly
gear by working a weighted Clouser minnow
erratically up the berley trail. Don’t overdo the
berley though, or sharks will again crash the party.
The waters inside the reef also hold large
numbers of queenfish that can be taken using
lures, flies or on small live baits (such as hardy
heads) suspended below a float. Trolling inside
the reef is a reliable way to hook a wide variety
of other pelagic hooligans, while baits are the way
to go to target table fish like spangled emperor
and bluebone.
The GulfEast of the peninsula is Exmouth Gulf,
which also provides some awesome angling
opportunities. Most pelagic species – including
some monstrous golden and giant trevally – are
regular visitors to the gulf. Boaties target them
around shoals and sections of reef, but local
knowledge is required to find these spots. The
gulf waters offer some advantages, including
better ramps and considerably safer boating.
No reef crossings are necessary, and the gulf
is often sheltered from the westerly winds that
play havoc with boating on the Ningaloo side of
the peninsula.
Land-basedAnglers who favour land-based fishing won’t be
disappointed: several locations offer peerless
beach and rock fishing. In particular, the area near
Mildura Wreck is renowned for some fantastic
captures of giant trevally. Make sure you have
serious gear though: the pros use heavy Saltiga
or Shimano Stella threadline reels loaded up with
24 to 37kg braid. Powerful 9 to 11 foot heavy-
duty rods are used to cast surface poppers the
size of coke cans and steer these crazy fish away
from the reef.
41 2
3
Go Fish
Those fishing with lighter gear can target
smaller varieties of trevally, queenfish and
mangrove jack with both hard and soft lures,
while bread and butter species like spangled
emperor, bluebone, whiting, bream and garfish
are taken with baits. Hotspots include Learmonth
Jetty to the south of Exmouth, the outer wall of
the Exmouth Marina, and many of the west side
accesses in the Cape Range National Park. I also
saw a visiting Englishman catch a nice queeny
from the Tantabiddy boat ramp using a small
silver Rapala lure.
Boat hire A convenient option for anglers visiting Exmouth
is to hire a boat. Even Perth-based anglers often
do this to save towing their own boats for 15
gruelling hours. Boats are available from a
number of outlets, and you can get a range of
sizes to tackle whatever type of fishing you like.
We hired a 6.5 metre Barrington complete with a
225 hp 4-stroke Yamaha – which cost $1400 for
6 days – but smaller versions are also available.
There are good concrete boat ramps at
Tantabiddy on the west coast of the peninsula
and Bundegi on the gulf side north of Exmouth.
Boats can also be launched at Exmouth Marina.
A word of warning though – know your limits in
terms of your own experience with boats. Fishing
outside the reef requires good boatmanship and
experience with ocean-going vessels. If you don’t
have boating experience there are many charter
boats that cater for all types of fishing.
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1: TheExmouthregionoffersgreatsaltwaterflyfishingfrombothboatandshore.Thisgold-spottedtrevallytookaweightedClouserminnow.
2:Exmouthisprobablyoneoftheeasiestplacestocatchbillfish,includingmarlin.
3:EveningbeachfishingaroundExmouthcanbebothpeacefulandproductive.
4:ThelighthouseatVlaminghHeadprovidesaninterestingdistraction,nottomentionagreatview.
When to goThere is great fishing all year round at Exmouth,
though some times are better than others.
It’s best to find a compromise between angler
comfort and fish activity. Summer is a productive
time for fishing but the temperatures soar to
an unbearable 40ºC almost every day
and the heat can be associated with
dangerous winds. In winter, the
conditions are ideal for boating,
but the water temperature is
lower than optimal for game
fish. Thus the best time to
schedule a trip is either in
spring or autumn (as food
for thought, the annual
Gamex game f ishing
tournament at Exmouth
has recently been changed
from August to March).
Fishing RegulationsThe regulations governing angling in the Ningaloo Marine
Park and surrounding areas are complex. Species bag limits
and possession limits apply, plus there are a number of
sanctuary zones in which angling is prohibited. The WA
government has recently increased the extent of these
sanctuaries such that angling is now prohibited in more
than 25 per cent of the park, much to the understandable
frustration of Western Australian anglers. A detailed
brochure detailing the applicable regulations is available
from many local outlets.
CampingThe Exmouth area provides some great campsites.
For those in need of frequent supplies or simply
craving some convenience, there are commercial
caravan parks located in Exmouth, beneath
Vlamingh Head and near Tantabiddy. Perhaps the
best spot to while away a few idyllic days though,
is in the Cape Range National Park on the western
shore of the peninsula. At several places there are
well-managed camping sites within metres of the
water, although facilities are limited.
So, get to it! Whether you’re passing through
on the big lap around Australia, or hankering for
an extended trip to a remote location, if you’re an
angler I guarantee you won’t be disappointed with
Exmouth. Sure, getting there can be an adventure
in itself, but the travel will be well worthwhile.
Exmouth offers a wide variety of awesome angling
opportunities, with great weather and spectacular
scenery thrown into the deal.
Carry a registered 406 MHz Distress Beacon if you are venturing into remote areas.
Be safe, Be sure.
Remember the following points:
• Leave details of your trek with family and friends.
• A registered 406 MHz GPS equipped distress beacon enables a faster response in an emergency.
• Distress beacons should only be used in life-threatening situations.
• In the event of an emergency, you should first signal other people in your area using radios or other methods of attracting attention.
• Mobile phones can be used but don’t rely on them, they may be out of range, have limited battery power, or become water-damaged.
www.amsa.gov.au/beaconsphone 1800 406 406
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Small
on si
ze
Words and photos: Kerry Heaney
Ever looked longingly at a camper trailer but thought it would be all too much for your soft roader to cope with?
Well your days of daydreaming are over with the arrival of
Conqueror Australia’s new UEV-310, designed to match
many soft roaders like Toyota’s RAV4, Suzuki’s Vitara
or Nissan’s X-TRAil and taking you places you’d never
thought you’d see.
it may be small compared to the five bigger UEVs in
Conqueror Australia’s range but the UEV-310 still has
the famous Conqueror military-quality construction, two
decades of R&D and tow anywhere ability.
FeaturesAt 3.7m long and 1.83m wide, and weighing 490kg (dry
weight), the UEV-310 is the smallest camper trailer in the
six-strong Conqueror Australia UEV range, but you know
what they say, all good things come in small packages.
let’s get technical and talk about the hot-dip galvanised
chassis beams, the electro galvanised, stainless steel and
powder coated parts and the body strength that comes
from the skeletal construction and cladding-minimised
weight. There’s also a 90l, low centre of gravity water tank
and designated mountings for two jerry can holders and a
massive 330 litre nose box.
1
on options
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1: Compact and go anywhere – that’s the UEV-310.
2/3: Setting up takes just minutes even with a toddler’s help.
4: More time to relax – that’s what we like.
So where can you take this camper trailer? Well anywhere
your adventurous side and your soft roader will go and
more, where you’ll appreciate the trailer’s excellent
departure angle for off road adventures.
Setting up & packing upNo need to set aside time to set up, it will only take
about two minutes; it is a simple matter of opening the
compartments up and stretching out the contents.
Everything is conveniently contained inside the trailer
and for those organised few among us you can even travel
with your double bed fully made.
It’s easy to access the ample storage areas from both inside
and outside the tent which is made from heavy duty Ripstop
canvas and has plenty of head height. Allocate a storage box
to each happy camper and you’ve got set up and pack up
organised in a blink. Did someone say time for a beverage?
Handy stabilisers on the side of the trailer also mean there’s
no sleeping on a slope.
The left hand side of the camp spot looked the best position
when we started setting the camper trailer up, but as the
morning progressed we decided it would be better over to
the right. No problem! No groans as we packed up poles
because there aren’t any and we didn’t need to pull out
pegs either. Moving the trailer was as simple as picking it
up and pulling it into place.
There’s plenty of room inside the trailer tent for at least
four people to sleep if necessary but I’d rather option up
with some awnings and extend the living and sleeping areas,
keeping the roomy double bed for myself.
What we loveYou’ve got to love a set up that takes around two minutes
to complete. It took us a bit longer on our first try with the
help of a curious toddler but it was certainly an easy ask. It’s
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also hard not to love the double bed and dressing room, the
lack of complicated poles, and the midge mesh over doors
and window to reduce sand fly bites. The breeze control
points and curtains over the windows outside and inside
are other practical inclusions that add to your comfort level.
I also like Conqueror’s offer to build the trailer to match
your car and travelling aspirations and the opportunity to
have upgrades retrofitted if you decide there’s something
you just can’t live without.
What we didn’t like so muchFor the softies amongst us, yes that includes me, apart
from the comfortable, longer than standard double bed and
swing out kitchen, this is a basic model without bells and
whistles. The good thing about that is that this is reflected
in the price and you can pick and choose what extras, like
internal and external LED lights, hot water system or a
fridge freezer, are going to make your life complete on the
road, and add them with ease.
Who should buy it?This is a great all-rounder offering minimal set up time and
the opportunity to sleep off the ground, features which will
appeal to everyone. With more than two cubic metres of
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1/2: The slide out fridge/freezer and kitchen bench make a handy work area.
3: Set up, sit back and read the latest edition of Go Camping.
4: Plenty of room in the extra long comfy double bed.
5: Allocate a black box for each camper and camp is organised.
lockable storage, you’ve got the added advantage of a rig
where you can lock up and leave everything from camping
essentials to valuables such as trade tools. Even the jerry
cans can be secured. Think about it – working trailer during
the week and camper on the weekend, or perfect for those
working off the beaten track who need to provide their
own accommodation.
You could also lock and leave the trailer and take off on
extremely rough tracks, secure in the knowledge that your
gear is safely locked.
With the UEV-310 you’re getting many of the benefits of a
larger off-road trailer in a unit that can be towed by a soft
roader and at an entry level price.
Conqueror Australia Crafted and fine-tuned over two decades of research and development, Conqueror Australia’s Urban Escape Vehicles are perfect for off-road camping. Tailor-made in Australia with the products sourced from all over the world, the Conqueror Australia’s fleet of seven Urban Escape Vehicles have been built to handle tough Australian conditions. All Conqueror UEVs comply with the Australia Design Rules (ADR) and each unit receives an engineer’s certification before leaving the Brisbane-based workshop. Conqueror Australia’s Urban Escape Vehicles are built to travel anywhere, have top-grade amenities like hot water systems, storage and queen-sized beds and virtually zero set up time. For more information visit the Conqueror Australia website: www.ConquerorAustralia.com.au or www.youtube.com/user/UrbanEscapeVehicles
How much and where to get itThe standard UEV-310 is priced at $16,200. It’s one of a range of six Conqueror Australia UEVs available – 490, 440, 390, 330, 360 – each named after their length. Find out more at www.ConquerorAustralia.com.au
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PitchPronto
Words and photos: Lee Atkinson
Rapid pitch touring tents are a great option for those with a 4WD who want a comfortable tent with a minimum of fuss.
If you love camping, but hate fighting with poles and ropes
and erecting complicated tents that make you wish you
had an engineering degree, you’ll love the Exo Tent. Simply
drop the tent in the middle of your chosen site, stretch out
the floor, pull up the top, and hey presto, apart from a little
bit of adjusting here and there, you’re ready to roll out the
swag. We tried out the new Exo Lite 300, and were pretty
happy with the results.
FeaturesWeighing in at 22kg, this is not a light-weight tent,
although it’s not the heaviest five-person touring tent
on the market. It’s also long, one-and-a-half metres when
packed in the bag, so unless you’ve got a roof rack it’s
not something that’s going to fit in the boot of the family
sedan or in the back of your average SUV; even in a large
4WD you’ll most likely have to fold down the back seats
to get it in.
While it may not be light, it is roomy: three metres square
with 210cm of head space, plenty for even the six-footer
in our family.
Lee Atkinson tries out the new Companion Exo Lite 300
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1: The framework, which is integrated into the design, has an auto-locking system so there’s no need to connect poles together and thread them through fabric sleeves.
2: Quick and easy – stretch it out, pull up the top and you’re almost done.
3: Simply drop the tent in the middle of your chosen site, stretch out the floor and pull up the top, and apart from a little bit of adjusting here and there, you’re ready to roll out the swag. Straight out of the box we had the basic tent up in just a couple of minutes.
4: Easy to use tension adjusters.
Tent Review
Made from ripstop polyester with an integrated alloy frame,
it comes with a waterproof silver-coated fly and awning,
built-in door mat, zip-up guy rope pouches and a zip-up
power cord inlet as well as two three-compartment wall
storage pockets. The mesh is ultra-fine no-see-um mesh,
so as long as you keep it zipped up it’s bug free. The tub
floor is polyethylene.
There are two side windows and a rear window, each with
a gusset so you can open them up for ventilation while
still maintaining complete privacy – or protection from
the weather. If the sun is shining you can roll them up for
maximum air flow. A carry bag with handles completes
the package.
Setting up and packing upThe flyer promises that the Exo Tent has been ‘designed
without compromise to deliver unrivalled speed when
pitching your tent’, and it lives up to the claim. Straight
out of the box we had the basic tent up in just a couple of
minutes: five minutes more and the tent was pegged out,
the fly was in place, the awning set up.
The framework, which is integrated into the design, has an
auto-locking system so there’s no need to connect poles
together and thread them through fabric sleeves. The two
awning poles are twist and lock, you need just eight pegs
in good weather and the fly is secured with velcro loops
and plastic snap-lock buckles – it really is as easy to put
up as they say it is.
Packing up is a little more complicated, and unlike setting
up, which was pretty intuitive, we had to refer to the
instructions. Even then, the process was accompanied by
some less-than-elegant cursing, but it was our first time
and practice will make perfect. Like all tents, the finished
bundle looked way too big to fit in the carry bag, but the
bag is quite generous and easy to close, even with the
inexpertly rolled and rather damp tent inside.
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What we loveThis is a very comfortable tent, with plenty of
room to stand upright and walk around. The two
compartmentalised wall pockets are handy, and the
integrated door mat is a great idea – although I’d still
use a cheap door mat to scrape off mud, sand and soil
to help keep the inside tidy. But the real joy of this tent
is all about how quick and easy it is to put up.
What we didn’t like so muchThere’s nothing light about the Exo Lite; it’s so heavy
that I couldn’t haul it out of the back of the 4WD
without some help and its length when packed up
means it’s not the most easily portable tent around.
The polyester fabric is not as flame resistant as canvas,
nor as breathable, so condensation is an issue.
Who should buy it The Exo Lite 300 officially sleeps five, but they would
have to be close friends. It works best for a couple who
like to have some room to move and store bags. Two
people could survive a couple of days of wet weather
in the Exo Lite 300 without going crazy. It’s ideal for
those who want the luxury of space and almost instant
set up, without the hassle of towing a camper trailer
or van.
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1: The Exo comes with a waterproof silver-coated fly and awning and built-in door mat.
2: The Exo Lite 300 is long; even in a large 4WD you’ll most likely have to fold down the back seats to get it in.
3: Plastic snap-lock buckles make attaching the fly a breeze.
4: This is a very comfortable tent, with plenty of room to stand upright and walk around.
How much and where to get itThe Exo Tent range is available at Anaconda and all good camping stores.
Prices range from $595 for the Exo Lite 210 up to $1795 for the monster-sized Exo Pro 610, sleeping 10.
Our tent, the Exo Lite 300, costs $799.
For more information and stockists, visit www.companionleisure.com.au
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e n g i n e e r e d f o r s p e e d
FEATURES• All alloy frame and components • 100% waterproof tent and fly • Large awning area• Built-in door mats • Large D Doors • Zip up guy rope pouches • Zip up power cord inlet • Wall storage pockets • Carry bag
EXO CROWN MECHANISM
AUTO LOCKING FRAME SYSTEM
NOTHING SLOWS DOWN THE EXO TENT.The new Exo range of tents by Companion have been designed without compromise to deliver unrivalled speed when pitching your tent. The unique alloy exoskeletal framework features a precision engineered auto-locking system so you can set up in minutes without the need to connect poles together and thread them through fabric sleeves. The durable alloy feet also provide maximum contact with the ground, providing unparalleled stability to ensure your Exo tent remains standing in all weather conditions.
FOR FULL SPECS AND FEATURES ,
SCAN CODE USING PHONE QR READER
www.companionleisure.com.au
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Words and photos: Lee Atkinson
If you’re travelling into remote areas of the Outback you’ll need to be self-sufficient, particularly when it comes to water, food and fuel.
Store your water in a number of containers so if you spring a leak in
one, you haven’t lost the lot. Allow five litres, per person, per day.
Carry more fuel than you think you might need: your fuel consumption
will increase by up to 50 per cent if driving in low range over sand dunes
and fuel and supply outlets in remote areas are not always open after
hours or at weekends and often don’t take credit cards.
But beyond these basics, there are some other things you really should
never leave home without.
EPIRB Often also called at PLB (personal locator beacon), an EPIRB
(emergency position-indicating radio beacon) could save your life in
the event of a serious emergency. When activated, the beacon sends
out a distress signal. The number one rule of Outback survival is to
never, ever leave your vehicle if you get into trouble. Most people who
have perished in the Outback have died while trying to walk to help.
Wait until help comes to you. Having an EPIRB means people will be
able to find you, quickly. If you don’t want to buy one (they cost several
hundred dollars) many police stations and national park offices will
hire you one, or check out www.epirbhire.com.au
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Satellite phoneMobile phone access is non-existent in the
Outback. Hire a satellite phone so you can
stay in touch – or call for help if needed.
They receive their signal from satellites that
are orbiting the Earth, and as long as there
is a clear line of sight between the satellite
phone’s antenna and the sky you can make
phone calls. Some tourist information
centres in remote areas have sat phones
you can hire, or visit www.satellitehire.com.au; www.rentasatphone.com.au
UHF radioA hand-held, short range (up to 10km,
usually less) radio is another must if
heading off the beaten track, especially
in desert dune country. Use the radio to
alert oncoming vehicles of your presence,
or to warn other travellers of hazards and
problems. Chatting with other travellers can
also be a lot of fun, just make sure you don’t
clog up an emergency channel. You can find
a handy list of channels and what they are
used for at http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Accessories/UHFRadio.aspx
First aid kit and fire extinguisherCarry a good basic first aid kit with
bandages and sterile dressings, band aids,
antiseptic cream, tweezers, scissors, saline
eye wash or drops and headache tablets.
You should also make sure you have an
easy-to-reach fire extinguisher.
10 things you need when heading off the
beaten track
1: As long as there is a clear line of sight between the satellite phone’s antenna and the sky you can make phone calls on a sat phone.
2: Always carry a spare spare.
3: Chatting with other travellers can also be a lot of fun, just make sure you don’t clog up an emergency channel.
4: Use a radio to alert oncoming vehicles of your presence when driving in dunes.
5: When driving through drifts of sand, lower your tyre pressure to around 15 psi to help avoid getting bogged.
6: Emergency position-indicating radio beacons send out a distress signal, which means rescue parties are able to track your location.
7: A PLB could save your life.
8: Desert country ‘snatch straps’ are the best option.
9: Desert dunes.
10: An EPIRB could save your life.
Remote area
survival kit
Uni
den
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Recovery gearOutback tracks can be tricky, and
you’ll need to have the right gear if
you find yourself bogged or stuck.
A winch is handy in mountainous
and heavily forested terrain, but
for desert country, ‘snatch straps’
(vehicle recovery straps) are the
best option. Made from heavy-
duty nylon or polyester webbing,
you can attach the strap to another
vehicle to pull the stuck one free. A
long handle shovel is also essential for
digging the sand out from under your car
when you get stuck.
Fuel stove Never rely on being able to have an open fire. Wood
may not be available, or it may be wet. In some national parks
collecting firewood is prohibited, as is the use of open fires, particularly
during times of high fire danger. Always carry a fuel stove.
Desert Parks PassIf heading into the South Australian Outback you will need to purchase
a Desert Parks Pass for access and camping (where permitted) for
a period of 12 months. Areas covered include Simpson Desert,
Innamincka, Coongie Lakes, Lake Eyre, Witjira National Park, Tallaringa
Conservation Park, Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation
Park (camping not permitted) and Strzelecki Regional Reserve. These
cost $125 ($75 to renew) but are good value as they include a useful
information pack and excellent detailed maps. You can buy passes at
various Department of Environment and Heritage (DEH) and National
Parks Offices through the state. For Desert Parks Passes call the
Desert Parks hotline 1800 816 078 or visit www.parks.sa.gov.au
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Need to Know
Useful TipsIf you’ve never been Outback before, consider
signing up for a 4WD training course before you
leave. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its
full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots
and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear.
Courses are available in all states and most regional
centres. Search the internet or phone book under
‘4WD driver training’.
Basic tools and spares A basic tool kit should include engine oil,
coolant, jumper leads, fuel filter, spare
radiator hoses and engine drive belts,
and the tools you’ll need to replace them.
Wheel replacement tools are essential,
including a jacking plate: finding hard level
ground can be difficult in sandy terrain. An
exhaust lift jack can be very helpful: plug
the hose into your exhaust pipe, position
the balloon under the frame of the car and
let the exhaust lift the car up so you can
change the tyre.
A spare spare The Outback is notoriously hard on tyres.
Razor-edged rocks and sharp sticks can
stake or pierce tyres, and bulldust patches
can appear without warning: the end of the
dust patch will often have a hard edge that
can damage your tyres or even the wheel
rims. Always carry a second spare tyre.
Air compressor When driving over sand hills or through
drifts of sand, lower your tyre pressure
to around 15 psi to help avoid getting
bogged. You’ll need an air compressor to
reinflate tyres when back on hard ground.
You’ll need to spend $100 or more to get a
reliable one that takes less than a week to
reinflate each tyre. Buy yourself a quality
tyre pressure gauge as well. The one on the
compressor may not be accurate.
Bill
McK
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Uni
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Winterwarmer pies
Words and photos: Julie Bishop and Regina Jones
Chicken Corn PieThe savoury flavour of the corn and bacon
together in a creamy sauce will be popular with
the family. This is an easy to remember recipe
to whip up at the last minute for toasted jaffles
or just spoon on toast. Serves 4 adults.
Ingredients:500gm diced chicken 2 strips of bacon1 onion, diced1 can Campbell’s Cream of Chicken and Corn Soup¼ cup cheese 250gm sour cream 1 frozen sheet of shortcrust pastry1 frozen sheet of puff pastry1 egg, beaten
Method:Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees. Brown chicken,
bacon and onion in a fry pan. Drain any excess
fat. Reduce heat to add soup, cheese and sour
cream, stirring while pouring into pan. This
mixture can be made in advance and frozen.
Line a greased pie dish with short crust pastry,
trim excess. Cook in oven for 5 minutes. Add the
chicken mixture. Place a sheet of puff pastry on
top and trim excess. Make a little design on top
with left over pastry. Brush with egg. Place in
oven and cook for 30 minutes.
Handy Hint: Pre-heat camp oven with trivet
for 10 minutes.
Puff pastry sheets can be a bother to keep frozen
in the camp fridge and safely packaged. What you
can do at home is slightly thaw the puff pastry
for a couple of minutes and then cut them in half,
fold the cardboard packet around pastry, put in
a Décor 1.75L oblong container and refreeze.
Now they will travel safely at the bottom of the
camp fridge or small caravan freezer.
Shepherd’s PieIngredients:4 medium potatoes, peeled2 tbl butter500gm mince1 diced onion500gm of frozen mixed veggies, thawed½ cup water3 tbl tomato sauce2 tbl worcestershire sauce1 beef stock cube2 tbl cornflour blended with waterSalt & pepperOption: 1 cup grated cheese to sprinkle on top
Method:Boil potatoes. Fry mince and onions in a deep pan.
Add remaining ingredients except flour. Bring to
boil. Lower heat and gently boil for 10 minutes,
stir occasionally. Stir in cornflour to thicken while
still on gentle boil for further 5 minutes. Mash
potato with butter, spoon onto top of pie. Sprinkle
cheese on top, place the frypan under the grill
until golden.
DreamPot methodPut the potatoes into the large inner pot. Cover
with hot water and bring to the boil. Simmer
for 10 minutes then transfer into DreamPot.
Combine remaining ingredients into the small
inner pot except flour. Bring to boil on stove
top. Stir intermittently. Reduce heat; simmer
for 8 minutes with lid on. Stir in flour, cook for
3 minutes. Transfer into DreamPot over the
potatoes for 20 minutes.
Remove potatoes from large inner pot, mash with
butter (no milk). Spoon over the mince mixture and
sprinkle with paprika. Place back into DreamPot
to keep hot until served.
Our philosophy with camp cooking is to keep it simple and tasty with the equipment and the method. Plan your meals well.
Whatever can be cooked at home and frozen to take away gives the camp chef more holiday time.
Avoid fiddling and fussing as the sun is setting the bugs
are biting, just pull out a pie!
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Mango PieIngredients:1 tetra pack 250ml juice popper¼ cup sugar5 heaped tbl custard powder 450gm can mango slices, chopped1 sheet of shortcrust pastry cut into 4 4 individual pie tins
Method:Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees. Drain mango
and save juice. Combine juices (500ml), sugar
and custard powder in a saucepan. Bring to
boil, reduce heat and keep stirring until mixture
thickens. Set aside to cool. Line the greased
pie dishes with short crust pastry, trim excess.
Cook in oven for 5 minutes. Remove pastry
cases from oven and place 2 large spoonfuls of
mango on base. Pour custard filling over top. Make
a little design on top with left over pastry. Bake for
30 minutes. Serve with long life cream.
Dine
The amazing portable DreamPot; enjoy brilliant thermal cooking - without the need for constant power or supervision. Cooks anywhere at anytime! Excellent for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Thermal cooking keeps your meals hot for hours and hours. Incredible! This 6 in 1 non-electrical appliance cooks an amazing variety of healthy nutritious and delicious meals from roasts, casseroles, yoghurts, rice, bread and desserts!
Perfect for home or away. Essential for caravanning, camping and motorhoming. Discover the DreamPot difference! Comprehensive recipe book included. Optional accessories available.
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Service agents for most brands
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www.wlacamping.info E-mail: [email protected] for bank deposit details
Steak and Kidney with Parsley DumplingsAn oldie and a goodie to warm a winter’s heart. We used diced rump steak with lamb kidneys
for a milder flavour. Thumbs up from the Hunter Gatherers! Serves 4 adults.
Method:In a large pot, brown the meat and onions. Add the
pepper and beef stock. Bring to the boil and simmer
for 1hr 15 minutes. Prepare dumplings – mix flour and
salt. Rub butter through with fingertips to resemble
breadcrumbs. Mix in parsley. Add water gradually until
you achieve a soft dough. Make into small balls. Stir
Gravox into steak and kidney mixture. Place dumpling
balls on top and cook for a further 15 minutes covered.
DreamPot methodWe used a 3ltr DreamPot for this recipe. Brown the
meat and onions on stovetop. Add the pepper and beef
stock and gently boil for 20 minutes. Stir in Gravox. Place
dumplings on top and simmer for 2 minutes. Transfer into
DreamPot and cook for a minimum 2 hours.
Ingredients: 700gm diced steak & kidney
2 onions, sliced
¼ tsp black pepper
1 beef stock cube dissolved in 1½ cups hot water
3 tbl Gravox
Salt to taste
Oil for frying
Ingredients: (Parsley Dumplings)2 cups SR Flour
pinch salt
60gm butter
1 tsp dried parsley
½ to ¾ cup water
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4WD Techniques
Hands up who has sat around the dining room table, the backyard swimming pool or even on the phone discussing and arguing about the best way to take off into the bush for a great camping holiday.
Going soloLet’s take the single person wanting to head away for a
weekend or slightly longer. He or she is happy to ‘rough
it’, wants to be quickly set up and packed away each day.
A canvas swag or a small tent may be perfect for sleeping.
Add a single butane cooker, two burner LPG cooker or
even a BBQ along with the basic cooking utensils. An
esky is a cheap alternative to a two or three-way fridge,
but do keep in mind that you’ll need to be replacing the
ice periodically. Chairs and table are often left behind for
those roughing it, but if you’ve got them they’ll make life
so much more comfortable.
While a swag may be the quickest and easiest way to hit
the sack each night (remember, it’s got your sleeping bag,
sheet and pillow all rolled into one) as well as quickest to
pack away in the morning, a general rule is that the swag is
for sleeping in – not living in! You’ll have no room to sit up in
bed to read, to get changed or do anything other than sleep.
With a small tent, which may take a little longer to erect, you
can have all the privacy you want. Just make sure you watch
out for your shadows from the 12-volt light at
night time! You’ll have to purchase and carry the
mattress and all other sleeping gear separately
but you’ll have respite from the weather if needed.
Having a few tarps, poles and pegs would be a great idea,
regardless of which solo camping gear you use. There’s
nothing worse than trying to camp in the pouring rain or
blazing heat without any form of cover.
Words and photos: Mark Allen
Top take off
TipsTravelling light or taking the tribe, choose your kit carefully for a top trip
A swag is a great option provided you don’t want to sit up in bed and read at night, and you’ll need extra
tarps if you want shade
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The familyOkay, now we step into the small group camping – we’ve
got mum, dad and a handful of kids to keep happy. You’ll
need a family tent large enough to sleep everyone with
enough space left over to store luggage bags and general
camping gear. Remember, for every piece of camp gear you
take, there will be a cover, bag or box that has to be stored
until it’s time to pack it all away.
Dome tents, touring tents, cabin tents, roof top tents or
even tents on wheels, the list is endless when it come to
choice of design. Choose one that can be easily set up
without every single group member taking part – there’s
plenty of other things to get ready at campsite other than
the setting of a tent.
If you intend on hitting some pretty hard 4WD tracks or
looking at doing tracks where trailers are prohibited, you
could have a problem with your camper trailer. Then not
only will you have to carry all the people, the food, the
games in your 4WD, but you’ll have to squeeze all that
camping gear in as well. Perhaps it’s time to think about a
roof rack and storage system! If you can afford the luxury
of taking a sturdy box trailer, just think of all the added
‘comfort’ you can bring.
You will not want to be sitting on the ground trying to
cook and eat like the single fella who’s ‘roughing it’. You’ll
want tables, chairs, a decent cooking station and plenty
of light for night time. There’s a plethora of barbecues to
suit cooking up your favourite food, a million and one types
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of folding chairs to slouch in, numerous styles of 12-volt
and LPG lights to turn night into day, but always take into
consideration what will best suit your needs.
No point taking a solid or grated barbecue plate if you
intend heating up soup – take a gas ring burner as well. No
point taking a slouch chair if you intend using it at the table
to eat – use a chair that sits upright. No point taking power
sapping 12-volt lights if you don’t have the battery power
to run them – consider gas lights, extra battery power and
longer lasting LEDs.
While on the subject of lights, make sure you have a few
hand held flash lights for midnight walks to the toilets. It’s
no fun feeling your way in unfamiliar territory!
The tent on wheelsThis is the serious end of camping. Being able to tow a
camper trailer provides a luxurious accommodation
package with huge amounts of sleeping area, covered
standing room, protection from the weather, built in
cooking equipment and so much more storage room for
all those ‘must have’ pieces of camping gear. Just be sure the
unit you choose is quick and easy to set up and dismantle.
There’s no point having an acre of covered area under that
huge awning if it takes an hour to set it all up. A basic rule
is, if it’s too hard and too timely to set up, it won’t get used.
Don’t waste your time and money taking it along.
If you’re contemplating purchasing a camper trailer, be
sure that both you and your vehicle are capable of towing
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1: Don’t forget you’ll need to charge your batteries if you’re camping in the one spot for a number a days.
2: There’s more than one use for a billy and bucket – you can get away with anything when you’re only 6 months old!
3: Here it all is, packed into a 4WD.
4: Forget the telly – a sunset can provide more inspiration than any soapie.
5: No one around for miles to annoy you – that’s one of the best things about camping.
6: Roof top tents are quick and easy for people on the move.
it where you intend camping (you may well need extra
recovery equipment) and that you are actually allowed
to take trailers to your chosen destination (some places
have banned trailers).
Towing anything will add to your fuel consumption figures,
so will cost you more on the road, but the advantages will
probably far outweigh the disadvantages.
You’ll also have an extra vehicle to look after while on the
road. Wheel bearings, brakes, lights and general electrics
need to be cared for and need regular maintenance when
back in civilisation.
Who wins?There’s no doubt there are countless numbers of ‘perfect
setups’ for the many battle-hardened campers who
‘know all’, but that’s not to say they have got it right for
your own individual needs. There also may be newer and
better products available since those ‘oldies’ first started
going bush.
My advice is to look, listen and learn from all those who
have gone before you, pick out the best parts that suit
you, wrap them all into one kit and add or change where
necessary after your first time out.
Make that first camp a short one to sort everything out.
Take a note pad along and jot down the things you didn’t
use, the things you forgot and the things you want included
next time you get out into the great unknown world of
camping under the stars… and enjoy every second of it.
TOP 11 TIPS FOR OUTBACK TRAVEL01. Take plenty of tarps – they make
great protection from both sun and rain or as ground sheets.
02. Take plenty of poles, spreader bars and ropes to rig up your tarps.
03. Take meshed sheets to put under your tent – they make packing up easier and cleaner and won’t hold water like a tarp. They are also perfect for using as a mat to walk on.
04. Take a variety of pegs – small metal pegs won’t hold in the sand and plastic sand pegs can’t be hammered into very hard ground.
05. Take replacement batteries for torches – the dark makes campsites seem oh so large.
06. Pack light – too much weight will kill even the best 4WD.
07. Heed signs and information about where and when you can camp.
08. Keep it simple; it’s amazing how much you can do without and still enjoy your camping.
09. Take your time and experience all camping has to offer.
10. Take plenty of food and water for each member of your camping party.
11. Relaxinfrontofacampfire–itbeatsTV hands down.
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82 | Go Camping Australia
CrittersOutback
Words and photos: Lee Mylne and Len Zell
Camping in Outback and desert areas gives us
the chance to see some of Australia’s most
bizarre and unique creatures up close.
While we may think of Outback animals as those
we see while driving – large, agile animals such as
kangaroos, wallabies or emus – spending time in
red dust country can reveal many small creatures
that are just as unusual and interesting.
While camping, especially if you are bush
camping and spend some quiet time just observing
what is around you, there is the chance to see
some amazing critters.
Scorpions, spiders, skinks, geckos, dragons,
snakes and goannas are just some of them. Sadly,
many smaller mammals have been lost or removed
due to loss of habitat or because of feral predators.
Whenever you travel or camp in desert country,
look for tracks and scats that will tell you what
is around. A good reference book to work out
what’s what is Tracks, Scats and Other Traces, by
Barbara Trigg.
There are more than 840 species of reptiles
in Australia and among the more common ones
you may see are the lizards and dragons. Reptiles
thrive in deserts and Outback areas because of
their protective skins.
The Ningaloo Coast region of northern
Western Australia has the highest density of
lizards of any arid land in the world. It is common
to see monitor lizards, dragons and shinglebacks
on or near the roads.
All are more active during the cooler times of
the day, but they need the warmth of the sun to
1: Termitemounds,LitchfieldNationalPark.
2:Shinglebacklizard.
3:Termitemounds,LitchfieldNationalPark.
4:Lacemonitor.
place for migratory birds, such
as the buff-breasted paradise-
kingfisher which build nests between
November and April, before returning to
Papua New Guinea.
Another animal that makes use of termite
mounds is the lace monitor, the largest lizard
found in Wet Tropics and the second largest lizard
in Australia. Lace monitors also deposit their eggs
in termite nests, often those built in trees. The
lizard makes a hole to gain entry, which is later
sealed by termites, enclosing the eggs. The stable
temperature inside the nest helps incubate the
eggs, and female lizards are believed to return
to the termite nest when their eggs are ready
to hatch to open it up with her claws to release
the young. Lace monitors lay between six and
12 eggs each year.
Lace monitors can grow to more than two
metres in length and are commonly seen around
picnic areas and campsites, scavenging for scraps.
They are a great sight, but please do not feed them.
Patience and quiet time around the campsite,
especially around dusk, can bring with it some
wonderful encounters with wildlife. And don’t
forget to have your camera handy!
1
3
allow them to hunt effectively.
Some species feed only at night.
If you are looking for them, check
out clumps of spinifex where animals may be
hiding in cracks and crevices in the soil, or in rocks
and trees.
Termite colonies are a feature of landscape
right across northern Australia and you don’t even
have to get off the beaten track to check them
out. The distinctive ‘cathedral’ mounds of spinifex
termites have large buttresses and are the most
striking but there are various different kinds of
mounds built by other species of termites.
The mounds are built by colonies of termites
which mix together mud and saliva that hardens
into a cement-like substance. The mounds can
reach up to six metres in height, take more than
50 years to complete and can contain up to several
million inhabitants. Inside, the mound is a maze of
chambers and underground tunnels that regulate
the temperature. Nests are usually maintained at
a temperature between 25°C and 36°C.
A good place to see magnetic termite mounds is
Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory.
A large group is located about 17km from the
eastern boundary of the park, and there is a
formal viewing area off Litchfield Park Road in
the northern area of the park, where boardwalks
allow you to get close to two-metre-high magnetic
mounds, which are aligned north-south, and four-
metre-high cathedral mounds.
As well as being homes for insects that build
them, termite mounds are often used as a nesting
Small creatures in a big land C
ourt
esy
of T
ouri
sm N
T
82-83 _Wildlife.indd 82 29/05/12 4:20 PM
Go Camping Australia | 83
Fulfil an experience that’s over the top!
Enjoy a journey of discovery as the MV Trinity Bay cruises its way through the protected waters inside the
Great Barrier Reef of Far North Queensland. Viewing the wild inaccessible coastline and National Park areas with rocky headlands, rainforests and sweeping bays.
Enjoy an exclusive journey sailing on board Australia’s last remaining
passenger-carrying cargo ship
The MV Trinity Bay departs Cairns every Friday. A round-trip takes 5 nights with the vessel calling in at Horn Island, Thursday Island and Seisia Wharf (Bamaga). There is the opportunity to partake in optional tours to complete your experience of this remarkable and remote region.** With only 15 passenger cabins, ensuite or shared facilities, you are advised to book early to secure a place on this unique and popular voyage.
*Fare based on triple share cabin, shared facilities, for travel between November 1, 2011 and March 31, 2012. Rates between April 1, 2012 and October 31, 2012 start at $1075 per person triple share. Prices include GST and are subject to change. All departures and schedules are subject to cargo and weather considerations. For Terms & Conditions, see our website or request an Information Booklet. **Optional tours are operated by outside companies. Extra charges apply and their operation is subject to weather conditions.
$775* per person
return travel, including all meals
CAIRNS
Seisia
Horn IslandThursday
Island
One-way trips available either north or southbound. You
can sail with your vehicle and complete the journey overland
in the other direction. Freight charges apply.
For more information visit our website: www.seaswift.com.au To request an Information Booklet or make a booking call 1800 424 422 or email: [email protected]
FROM
2
3
4
6
Wildlife Watch
Lee Mylne and Len Zell run the Wild Discovery Guides website www.wilddiscoveryguides.com
Cou
rtes
y of
Tou
rism
NT
82-83 _Wildlife.indd 83 29/05/12 4:21 PM
84 | Go Camping Australia
Easy cookNew Wave Kitchen Appliances’ Induction
Cooker is light weight, compact and portable.
With no flame, no smoke and no radiant heat,
it’s a very safe and environmentally friendly
way to cook. Induction cooking is much faster
than other cooking methods. You can slow
cook on 60ºC or make fantastic stir fries
on the maximum 240ºC. It is also very easy
to clean, as the surface is made from a high
quality heatproof black micro-crystal glass
plate and stainless steel surround – simply
use a wet cloth with some mild detergent.
RRP $129.95. More information at
www.newwavekitchenappliances.com.au
or 1800 337 211
Shockproof phoneThe Huawei Discovery Expedition is
the perfect mobile phone for weekend
warriors after a tough and durable
device that will stand up to the rigours
of outdoor adventures. Shockproof,
waterproof and dustproof, the Discovery
Expedition is as sophisticated as it is
tough, and packed with outdoor functionality
features, such as GPS, digital compass,
G-sensor and SOS. Equipped with Facebook
and Twitter social networking capabilities,
users can not only experience their weekend
adventures to the max without the fear of
breaking their mobile, but also share the
experience with friends and family.
The Discovery Expedition is available
exclusively at Vodafone on a great range
of postpaid plans and prepaid, starting at
$0 upfront on Vodafone’s $19 Plan over
24-months, or $199 to use with Vodafone
Prepaid. For more info visit
www.huaweimobile.com.au
Big soundSmall, but it’s big on performance,
VibebOx is one of the world’s
most compact amplifiers. Specially
designed for small and compact spaces,
VibebOx amplifies sound with clarity.
Place VibebOx on any hollow surface and
you’ll be amazed at the sound! Ideal for iPods,
iPhones, MP3 players, it can even be used as a
television speaker. VibebOx also takes mini SD
cards, so now you can enjoy listening to all your
favourites wherever you go. With an output
power of just 7watts, VibebOx incorporates a
rechargeable lithium battery via any USb port.
VibebOx sells for RRP $95. Visit
www.vibebox.com.au
Breakfast sortedMore than just oats, brookfarm’s new gourmet Power Porrij and Gluten
Free Porrij include organic supergrains such as quinoa, amaranth and
golden flaxseed. Add in some South Australian almonds and macadamia
nuts from byron bay and you’ve got a rich nutty texture. Add milk or
water and cook for a short time, top with a drizzle of honey, a sprinkle of
cinnamon and you’ve got a great tasting breakfast that’s also good for you.
Find it for RRP $9.50. More information at www.brookfarm.com.au
Just what you need for your next outdoor adventure
new gearTop
Words: Kerry Heaney
84-85 _gear to go.indd 84 29/05/12 4:23 PM
Go Camping Australia | 85
Avocado on the goNew Fressure Avocado Spread contains the goodness of two fresh avocados – and
with no additives or preservatives, it’s 100 per cent pure. It is the ultimate convenience
food that’s good for you too! Delicious on toast, as a healthy alternative to your regular
spread, or served in salads, wraps or as a base for homemade dips. Find it at Coles
supermarkets nationwide RRP $3.99. Find out more at www.fressurefoods.co.nz
New gen sports footwearZori Pump is a sports-orientated, ergonomic
soled slip-on with a strong but ultra
comfortable upper, keeping the foot in place.
It’s good for lower back pain sufferers and
people who suffer from sore joints, healthy for
your feet, lightweight, stylish and inexpensive.
The Neat Zori Thong has a built-in heel cup,
significant arch support and built-in metatarsal
pad which makes for a foot bed of comfort.
Available in black and tan and black, sizes
6-12, Neat Zori are available through leading
pharmacies and retail for RRP $59.95.
Roll over traditional sleeping bag!Ever been camping and wished you could walk around in your cosy
sleeping bag without having to do the hop-and-hope-I-don’t-land-on-
my-face? The clever selk’bag is designed to fit the wearer and unlike
traditional sleeping bags, you won’t get tangled up when you roll over
in your sleep. The selk’bag even has durable nylon soles so you can
walk around the camp site in it, which will make those cold mornings
and nights much more pleasant. Your hands can be easily released so
you can eat, drink or even go fishing in it. Air vents can be opened if
you get too warm. The selk’bag comes in Classic, Lite and Kids priced
from RRP $99 to $199. Find out more at www.selkbag.com.au
Easy navigationThe Magellan eXplorist 110
outdoor GPS offers easy to use quality
navigation designed for those who enjoy leisure
activities including hiking, cycling and camping
but don’t necessarily consider themselves the
Bear Grylls type. Features include a coloured
transflective screen that is readable in direct
sunlight, a Hunt and Fish calendar with useful
tidal information for fishermen as well as Sun
and Moon calendar that tells users the time the
sun sets to help them prepare for when it gets
dark. The model is also waterproof, can store
500 waypoints and can be clipped to a lanyard
so it sits comfortably around your neck or off
your backpack or bike. RRP $149 and available
from major outdoor retailers.
www.magellan.com.au
Safe packThe new Venturesafe 32L anti-theft travel
backpack is an essential travel companion,
perfect for long weekends or short
trips, and meets international carry-on
standards. For those who can’t bear to be
disconnected from the world for too long,
it even fits a laptop or iPad. The padded
air mesh back support, waistbelt, sternum
strap and padded shoulder straps,
also make this backpack exceptionally
comfortable. Features include slashproof
straps, hidden pockets, zipper security,
two water pockets and a hidden, zippered
pocket. Available in black and priced at
RRP $239.95. For stockists go to
www.osabrands.com
84-85 _gear to go.indd 85 29/05/12 4:24 PM
86 | Go Camping Australia
Danielle Lancaster is a
professional photographer who
loves sharing her passion with
others. Her company Bluedog
Photography shoots a range
of imagery for corporate and
private clients and runs Bluedog
Photography Courses, Retreats
and Tours.
Contact: (07) 5545 4777
www.blue-dog.com.au
Chem
istry
of
Words and photos: Danielle Lancaster
Here are five top tips:1. Strong, bold coloursDeep saturated colours give real impact but the key to using them is
keep your composition simple and try not to include too many colours.
The top tip here is to use a polarising filter. They deepen colour saturation.
2. Subtle, pastel coloursSometimes less is better and subtle colour can create mood to your image. To
achieve this it is best to take your image on an overcast day when the light is diffused
and look for objects that will suit this effect such as flowers, chairs, still life. This effect
can be achieved in post processing by desaturating colours using hue/saturation.
3. One strong colour against a neutral backgroundThis works a charm when used with texture such as bricks, peeling paint or any neutral
background such as grey or black. The background will accentuate the colour of your
object and really make it stand out.
4. Let one colour dominateAllow one colour to stand out and become the main subject of your photograph. Try
and use a primary colour such as red, yellow or blue. This gives the image punch and
really catches the viewer’s attention.
5. Colour balance with the colour wheelThe colour wheel is a handy tool and knowing how different colours work with each
other is a big advantage and the great news it’s so simple to use. Colours close to each
other complement each other and give a relaxing and calming feel. A prime example is
autumn leaves. Colours opposite each other are high contrast and make your image
dramatic and dynamic such as yellow and purple.
Make your images pop with colour
Photo Smart
Colour
86 _PhotoSmart.indd 86 29/05/12 4:26 PM
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The prize must be taken as offered. There is no cash alternative.Conditions: James baroud/Go Camping australia subscription competition is open to all readers who subscribe, renew or receive
a gift subscription for one or two years. the winner will be notified by mail and/or telephone.
Yes, i want to subscribe/renew for my chance to win a discovery Space evolution off Road Roof top tent valued at $3900.00 RRP
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Autobivouac – The Australian Importer and Distributor of James baroud tents.At the forefront of cutting edge technology, James Baroud developed automatic opening systems for hard top roof top tents. Of the highest European quality, meeting international standards (iSo certified), 100% waterproof and comes with a 5 year unconditional warranty.Go Camping Australia is proud to present the new model Discovery Space evolution at Brisbane’s Caravan and Camping Show (8 - 14 June).
(02) 6646 1012 www.jamesbaroud.com.au
87 James Baroud Subscription Page.indd 1 29/05/12 4:27 PM
88 | Go Camping Australia
DesertsJust
Words and photos: David McGonigal
While every environment has the potential
to harm the innocent traveller, deserts
are the setting where the threat is barely
veiled behind stark beauty. Many years ago I
discovered the danger of deserts is real. It was in
Afghanistan, back in the days when that nation
attracted foreign visitors not in uniform.
We had a map, a dog-eared depiction of the
well-trod tracks between Singapore and London.
In our hotel in Kabul we saw that there were
two routes across Afghanistan: the sealed road
south from Kabul to Kandahar and onwards to
Herat and a direct dotted line from east to west
marked ‘scenic’. Trevor, my touring companion,
and I elected to take that one as “the dirt roads
will get us away from the crowds and, after all,
how bad can it be?”
Three days later we were in the middle of
Afghanistan, on a featureless plain with the
horizon broken only by a smudge of mountains
to the far north. Our little blue plastic tent was the
only incongruity. As a campsite, it left everything
to be desired.
It wasn’t of our choosing. The road was
impassable, a slick mud bath with a frictional
coefficient of zero but even that was irrelevant
because my motorcycle clutch had burned out
an hour ago after congealed mud locked my back
wheel to the (poorly named) mudguard. With the
engine no longer linked to the rear wheel I was
going nowhere. On the bright side, although
Trevor’s bike’s engine had seized when he fell into
preserve the engine oil, cut the box into several
doughnut shapes, and packed the clutch with
cardboard.
Soon the journey continued. With my clutch
permanently engaged I had to push start the
bike and couldn’t readily stop it. And hepatitis
left me weak so that I couldn’t hold the bike when I
stopped. Several hundred deep river crossings lay
before Herat. At each, I couldn’t stop so charged in
and hoped for the best. It sometimes worked out.
The road became a track, then a trail, then
entered a narrow defile and became merely a
rocky creek bed. It was rough going – one day
we rode from dawn to dusk to cover 24 kilometres.
A few days later we rejoined the highway and
our dusty tyres touched tar again. In Herat we
rejoiced, celebrated and rehydrated by buying and
devouring a watermelon and honeydew melon.
Decades later I continue to seek out deserts,
despite their best efforts to stop me. The
Sahara? My BMW’s electrical system collapsed
in southern Morocco and for 12 months the
entire ignition ran through the cigarette lighter
socket. The Gobi? In Mongolia I had to use a car
shock absorber reverently placed on a Buddhist
chorten to hammer my alloy rim back into a shape
that resembled round. The Taklamakan Desert,
Central Australia, Death Valley, the Atacama have
all posed their challenges.
Throughout them all I’ve learned that an
adventure is simply a disaster you live to tell
about.
the icy mud it appeared to be running again. Our
dilemma was enhanced by gossip in the last village
that we may be the last vehicles before winter
snows closed the passes. We had no food – and
little water. We didn’t have any money either but,
in the complete absence of shops, buildings or
people, that wasn’t an immediate handicap. And
it was still raining (we had no way of capturing
the water).
We were poster people for venturing well out
of our depth.
It had been a remarkable journey as we’d
visited the Buddhas of Bamiyan and the azure
blue bathtub lakes of Band-i-Amir and dined
with the nomads of central Asia. Ironically, earlier
when we’d pushed Trevor’s highly tuned and
temperamental Honda over the ultimate summit
we considered our troubles over. The skeleton
of a camel marked the highest point. We even
welcomed the first light rain that settled the all-
pervasive red dust. But the rain soon turned the
dust into slick glue. As the sun set I found I was
having a relapse of the hepatitis I’d contracted in
Kathmandu. Exhausted, dispirited and hungry, we
crawled into our sleeping bags.
The next day dawned bright and clear and the
road had dried. Unfortunately, my clutch hadn’t
miraculously healed itself. Still, with a sense of
optimism we set forth, Trevor towing my bike
about 20 kilometres to the next tiny village.
Fortunately, it once had some oranges delivered
in a cardboard case. I laid the bike on its side to
Holidays and Horror Days
SolutionsDesert travel is all about
preparation, notification and
edification. Have the parts and
knowhow to fix vehicles when
they go wrong – and enough water
and food to survive when you
can’t. Tell someone where you
are going – and carry a satellite
phone to call for help, battery and
coverage permitting. But research
to know what to expect is the best
way to ensure you don’t get into
trouble in the desert.
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www.outdoorconnection.com.au
CONNECTION
Quality gear for the best of times
Heron2 Room
Brampton3 Room
BedarraDeluxe 2 Room
This innovative tent features Outdoor Connection’s Hornet Pole Design which gives excellent internal space and headroom with near vertical side walls. Ventraflow panels and large windows and doors guarantee excellent ventilation for hot summer weather. The unique optional awning side walls help make a truly usable awning area.
The Weekender is the one room tent in Outdoor Connection’s Resort Range which all share the Hornet Pole Design, large windows and doors and many other features.
Tents in Resort Range:-
Weekender1 Room
The Weekender Tent finished with the highest score in the “What to buy” section of CHOICE Tent Comparison.
Weekender Dome Tent(Shown with optional side walls)
go camping ad sept 11 v3.indd 1 14/09/2011 12:09:42 PM
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