Colorado State University Extension-Pueblo County

701 Court Street · Suite C · Pueblo, CO 81003 · 719-583-6566 · coopext_pueblo@mail.colostate.edu

2013 Fall

From the Ground Up A Gardening and Native Plants Quarterly

Volume 4, Issue 3

INDEX

Know Your Natives 1-2

Wicked Weeds 2

Plant Propagation Terms 3

Interesting Insects 4

Amending With Manure 5

Native Vegetation 5-6

Perennial People 7

CMG Program 8

Digging Deeper 9

Is It Safe? 10

Prairie Dogs 10-11

Hardscapes 12-13

Fabulous Families 13

Garden Walks 14

In my bone-dry yard in Pueblo West, my super-hero, all-star plant is the Senecio flaccidus or as I like

to call it, sensatanio fantasticus. I absolutely love this plant because it is tough, beautiful, and native to Pueblo

County prairies. It grows into a small mound or small bush measuring about two feet by two feet with

profuse yellow blossoms that are reminiscent of the plant‘s daisy heritage.

Although rather uncommon in our prairies and nearly all xeric yards, I think most

gardeners would be more than impressed with this little beauty.

My first Senecio flaccidus blew in, established itself, then caught my

attention over and over. It starts blooming in early June, continuing well past the

first couple frosts. For me, it can bloom well into October which means five to six

full months of blooms. I have actually seen this plant

covered with snow only to continue blooming after the

weather warms up. Being a Pueblo County native, it is

very drought tolerant. Once established, it is a happy

camper and thrives on neglect in the middle of my un-

irrigated prairie yard and enjoys the company of native

blue gamma, buffalo grass, and rabbit bush.

Senecio flaccidus, commonly known as

threadleaf ragwort or threadleaf groundsel, is a full sun

perennial that is easy to start from seed. Although the

plant does not seem to readily reseed itself in my yard

without help, I suspect that in pea gravel mulch it would readily pop up wild. The seeds need no stratification

and start easily in regular planting pots, or when tended, in the yard. If you propagate Senecio flaccidus in

your yard, it is easily mistaken for a weed when young as it looks somewhat like a dull or lightly colored

Russian thistle (Salsola tragus). You will not commonly find Senecio flaccidus in most garden centers so

home propagation is the way to go.

The propagation process can start now and does not require sophisticated techniques. Collect seeds

from July into winter and scatter the seed in large pots or flats of potting soil that drain readily. Cover the Continued on page 2

KNOW YOUR NATIVES

SENECIO FLACCIDUS OR SENSATANIO FANTASTICUS by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009, and Native Plant Master, 2011

Senecio flaccidus

growing on a rocky

slope along Pueblo

Blvd north of the

Arkansas River in

late August. Photo

courtesy of

L. McMulkin

2

WICKED WEEDS

TRIFOLIUM REPENS: IS IT TRULY A WEED? by Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Horticulture

Know Your Natives continued from page 1

seeds lightly with soil and place them in a south window. Keep the soil damp until established, then cut

back on water. As they come up, transfer them into individual containers where they stay until they are

transferred into the garden. The seeds can be started from January and throughout the winter and early

spring months.

After the last frost and throughout spring and early summer, transfer starts to the yard. If a new start

lays down in the soil due to wind or water, it will quickly die. Help them along by propping them up with

bricks or rocks until they are established and can stand on their own. Rather than direct watering of new

starts, let the water run to the base of the plant rather than squirting the top, as new starts lie down easily.

Young plants do better with some type of mulch to help retain soil moisture; grass clippings or pea gravel

work well. Water young starts until established. The young Senecio flaccidus will start blooming during the

first year.

Propagation Tip: If you find your seedlings die due to damping off or drying out, start your seeds in

bigger pots such as 4-6 inch containers or milk carton bottoms with drain holes punched in. Make sure any

containers you use drain readily and do not sit in water. You will find that larger pots that do not sit in water

control soil moisture much better, mitigating the effects of both damping off and drying out.

White clover, Trifolium repens, is frequently found in garden beds and lawns. It is often called a

weed, but it could possibly be a friend to every gardener in the world.

Trifolium repens belongs to the Fabaceae or Pea family. It is a low growing, herbaceous perennial

with trifoliate leaves that often have a white, crescent shaped band on each leaflet. The flower heads consist

of 40 to 100 individual white to pinkish florets arranged in round or globular outline. The heads are borne on

naked (no leaves) stalks that extend above the foliage. The flowers are long lasting and sweet smelling. The

plant reproduces from seed and by above-ground runners (stolons) that form new roots at the nodes.

Like other clovers, the roots of white clover form a symbiotic relationship with bacterium in the

Rhizobium genus. The bacteria, protected in the plant‘s roots, fix atmospheric nitrogen (N2) in a form that

plants can use for growth (ammonium, NH4, or nitrate, NO3). This system

makes clovers a great companion plant for lawns, providing nitrogen for both

species.

White clover is native to Eurasia. This species and other clovers are

often planted as forage crops for livestock and are favorites of honey bees. The

plant is, arguably, very pretty, is loved by rabbits, and can provide hours of fun

for kids searching for 4-leaf clovers or making flower crowns. So, is Trifolium

repens a weed or the plant we should encourage in our yards?

In lawns, the presence of white clover indicates that the turf is being

mowed too low (3‖ mowing height will shade it out) and that the soil is

deficient in nitrogen. To reduce the amount of clover in your lawn, mow

higher and apply nitrogen fertilizer at the recommended rate (see CSU

Extension fact sheet 7.202: Lawn Care, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07202.pdf).

Spot spraying with herbicides is best done in the fall. Use a product for broadleaf

weeds and follow label directions. Translocation of the herbicide to the root system

is very successful in the fall, when perennial plants are moving sugars to the roots

for winter storage.

Or, learn to love the presence of this plant in your landscape and spend your

time looking for that lucky leaf.

White clover. Photo courtesy of

Chris Evans, Illinois Wildlife Action

Plan, Bugwood.org.

Garden Tip: Wetland Plant Field Guide

The Colorado Natural Heritage Program (CNHP) has released a Field Guide to

Colorado’s Wetland Plants: Identification, Ecology, and Conservation. Professionals

and amateurs alike can use this guide to identify the vascular species that are found in

Colorado wetlands. Print copies of the guide are $39.95 plus shipping or you can

download the electronic version for no charge. The order form and links are available at

http://www.cnhp.colostate.edu/cwic/ident/fieldGuide.aspx. The guide will be available in

a pocket version and a mobile app in 2014.

3

Plant Propagation Terminology: Methods of Seed Production by Marge Vorndam, Colorado Master Gardener, 1997, and Native Plant Master, 2008

Horticulture is dependent on the production of new plants. There are a variety of ways that new plants

can be propagated. It‘s easy to become confused by all of the terms involved related to propagation, so let‘s

review the definitions.

Clone: Vegetative propagation. Plant clones are made by reproducing from a parent plant, but without the

aid of flowers. Cloned plants are widely used to propagate new plants, because the new plant always grows

true to the parent plant. Examples of cloned plants are potatoes grown from eyes, plants grown from bulbs

and runners, houseplants grown from rooted cuttings or stems/leaves.

Genetically modified (GM): Plants that have been modified using genetic engineering. The plant DNA has

been changed to incorporate a feature that is desirable for successful plant propagation through human effort.

Genetic modification can allow a plant to survive an herbicide, such as Roundup, for treatment of a field to

control weeds. Other modifications can provide benefits to the plant to allow management of insect pests, to

allow the plant to survive in a wider environmental setting or to improve the nutritional or pharmaceutical

value of the crop.

Heirloom: Plants that have been grown for many generations. The plants reproduce true to the parent plant,

and the progeny are copies of the parents. Heirlooms are open-pollinated plants. Heirloom vegetables are

generally selected for flavor. Most of the heirloom vegetables and flowers we have today owe their existence

to the fact that early gardeners, with an eye for quality, saved the seeds of their best plants, sowed them the

next year, and in this way improved the species. This is a type of selective breeding.

Hybrid: A plant derived from a cross between two genetically different parents that yields the same F1

hybrid offspring in all progeny plants, resulting in a monoculture crop. The hybrid offspring characteristics

will all look like the dominant parent. Hybrids are popular with growers as some desirable trait can be

maintained or enhanced. For example, thicker skin or longer shelf life in grocery stores is a result of selective

hybrid breeding in tomatoes. Disease resistance and speed of ripening are other traits for which hybrid crops

are desirable. F1 hybrid vigor refers to the tendency of hybrids to produce more profusely and to grow better

than the parent strains. These plants result from closed pollination through human assistance.

Monoculture/Monocrop: Group of plants having the same genetic code.

Open-pollinated: See Cross-pollinated.

Cross-pollinated: Male pollen and female eggs combined produce a seed from a flower on different plants.

An example is when pollen from a corn tassle pollinates the ovary of an adjacent corn plant. Pollination is via

wind, insects, bats, and humans.

Self-pollinated: Pollen is transferred directly to the stigma within the same flower or to that of other flowers

on the same plant.

Humans have used all of these methods to produce plants that favor their existence. While many

people are currently questioning the safety of GM plants, it should be noted that humans have been

genetically manipulating plant choices via selective breeding throughout agricultural history to achieve

the best plants for food production and ornamental gardens.

4

INTERESTING INSECTS

ANTS: THE BRAVE AND ADVENTUROUS CLEAN-UP CREW by Bob Akins, Colorado Master Gardener, 2013

You sit quietly with anticipation as the lights dim and the curtain opens. Then bouncing music starts

followed immediately by brilliant pastel singing ants…wait a minute, wrong area. Yes, ants are the topic, but

not the cartoon types.

What are your thoughts on ants? Pestiferous creatures that deserve immediate

immolation (You did have a magnifying glass as a kid, didn‘t you?) or, perhaps, in a

nobler vein, one of the greatest creatures of the eco society.

Greatest creature? Where does that come from? Think about it; when you need

a cleanup crew who else can do what ants do. If it‘s edible, then the lowly ant can help.

Chewing off chunks up to 10 times their body weight and carrying it back to help feed

their queen who can make more baby ants to help relieve the workload and cleanup

faster.

Ants are also brave, noble, and adventurous. When attacked by ruthless enemies

intent on taking their food or other resources, the ants bravely fight back with only one thought; protect the

hive. What more noble sacrifice can be made? Adventurous? You bet. Send out lowly scouts through all

adversity to find new food sources and then leave a hormone trail so that the food can be found again. Brave,

noble, adventurous all in one package.

One other point; the little blighters are willing to help you clean your house. Just think of that honey

spill on the picnic table. Did anyone wipe it up? No, but the ants gladly clean it up for you and look for

more.

Ants are found just about everywhere (OK, Antarctica is out) and nest mostly outdoors. They will

come inside, though, as they are foragers and will take their food as they find it. Ones you don‘t want

invading are the Carpenter ants (Camponotus species). Big, black and willing to nest in wood (read that eat

your house foundation). Odorous house ants (Tapinoma sessile) are another one that will forage in houses.

They are little stinkers so when disturbed will ―fart‖ and when a lot go off at once, even the mighty cow

flatulence is challenged.

One last ant to consider is the Pharaoh ant (Monomorium pharoaensis). Small, brown and hungry,

these little beggars have no problem going for any sweet jam, jelly, or sugar available. Puts a new spin on the

peanut butter side always lands down.

Well, what can we do to get rid of these critters? Best way is to eliminate food and water sources. Go

ecologically crazy and use some nefarious chemical to clear nest areas near the house. Use bait. Flush hot

water down their nest hole, not so good as you need a lot of water and they have long, varied tunnels.

Besides, they can swim and would probably appreciate a hot bath after a long day of hauling food.

All kidding aside, for more scientific information refer to the CSU Extension fact sheet 5.518, Ants in

the Home by W.S. Cranshaw and other insect publications at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/menu_insect.html

and http://bspm.agsci.colostate.edu/outreach-button/insect-information/arthropods-of-colorado/.

Garden Tip: Fall Blooming Annuals for Containers and Flower Beds

Many warm season annuals begin to fade as the days shorten and nights get cooler. Now is the time to replant

with annuals that love the fall. You can swap out fading annuals by gently removing tired plants

and placing new plants in the hole. Try cool season plants like pansies, viola, African daisies, and

alyssum. Some annuals perform well from spring to late fall (snapdragons, marigolds, petunias,

Calibrachoa and verbena), especially if you prune the plants back by about 1/3 and fertilize them in

September to stimulate new growth. These fall loving annuals may continue blooming until the first

hard freeze.

5

Amending With Manure by Linda McMulkin

Gardeners in southeastern Colorado are aware that amending soil with organic matter can improve the

growing conditions for ornamentals and edible plants. Animal manure is a common choice, but is it the best

choice for our gardens?

Manure is often readily available and inexpensive. But, it can be salty or contain weed seeds. Weeds

can be controlled over time, but salt in the manure can potentially push our already saline soils to the point

where plants struggle to grow. Does that mean home gardeners should never use manure or manure based

amendments? Of course not. But, there are a few tips that should be followed.

Submit a soil sample of the native soil prior to amending. The soil test

report will list existing soil salt levels and indicate if manure is

recommended as an amendment.

Use manure sparingly over several years rather than in large amounts.

Follow CSU Extension recommendations for application rates.

Remember that a little goes a long way with manure.

Mix any amendment into the existing soil as deeply as possible.

Apply in the fall to allow decomposers to break down organic matter over

the winter. A layer of mulch and periodic irrigation will protect

microorganisms and encourage decomposition.

Adding manure to vegetable garden soil can increase the presence of

E. coli. Apply manure 4 months before planting edible crops. Wash all

produce before consuming.

For more information on using manure as a soil amendment, see Colorado Master Gardener

GardenNotes #242: Using Manure in the Home Garden at http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/242.pdf

and CSU Extension fact sheet 9.369: Preventing E. coli From Garden to Plate at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/

pubs/foodnut/09369.pdf.

Native Vegetation Changes Due To Drought by Rich Rhoades, District Conservationist, Natural Resources Conservation Service, Pueblo Field Office

I can remember my grandfather and me sitting on folding chairs on the front lawn watching the

development of a summer thunderhead. We were in southeastern Colorado on a hot summer day. My

grandfather was a rancher, so weather and native grass growth were very important to him. It was very dry

that summer and my grandfather had been thinking back to the hard times in the 1930s. He described the

perfect thunderstorm, which direction it developed, what time of day the clouds started to build and what

direction the wind would blow. In the 30s, during the Dust Bowl, he said the clouds would build but high

winds would tear the clouds apart and no rain would fall. We watched the cloud form, hoping it was the cloud

that would bring rain.

Today we find ourselves in a similar situation. Depending on where you get your weather information,

only 2 of the last 10 years have been average or above. The last few years have been especially brutal with

hot, dry winds, little precipitation and virtually no growth from native grasses, forbs and shrubs. Our native

plants developed under the arid climate of eastern Colorado but even they can succumb to multi-year drought.

What does this mean for the native vegetation and what should we expect when the moisture does

come again? Based on my observations during the 2000-2002 dry period, if we have ―normal‖ precipitation,

it will find the native plants in a weakened condition (low vigor) due to a drastically reduced root system. The

natives are not rapidly growing and have been weakened by the effects of multiple years of drought. I expect

we will have a number of annual weedy species appear. If the winter or early spring moisture is good, we can

expect cheatgrass brome, redstem fillaree, annual barley and a variety of mustards. Winter annuals will be

abundant. If moisture occurs in the summer, expect sunflowers. It seems that kochia, stickseed and

Russian thistle are always ready to grow no matter what season the rains come. A bumper crop of

tumbleweeds might be the result. Continued on page 6

Garden Tip: Saving seed

Many home gardeners save seed of favorite vegetable or ornamental plants in an effort to grow the crop

again or to increase the number of plants in the landscape. To ensure success, you need to learn details about the

plant and it‘s reproductive schedule, including details of pollination, seed maturity, processing after harvest,

storage, and any special handling before germination. For general information on saving seed, see CSU

Extension fact sheet 7.602 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07602.pdf.

6

Native Vegetation continued from page 5

The period from 1982 to 1999 was the second longest sustained wet period in recorded history and

the most drought-free period since 1890. The 1990‘s were the wettest decade ever in Southeastern CO. Our

baseline of what is normal may have become skewed.

Native plants, our rangelands, change composition in response to

good management, weather, fire, over grazing and other disturbances.

Studies of a variety of areas give us some clues as to what might happen in

the next few years in response to drought. As I dust off my cracked crystal

ball, here is my guess as to the vegetative changes we‘ll see. Recovery, or

lack thereof, will depend on how much or how little precipitation we get

over the next few years. In grazed areas, we‘ll see a decline in the

production of blue grama, the Colorado state grass, and one of our most

common and palatable grasses. We are already seeing areas with blue

grama mortality of 60-80%. I have seen native forbs and shrubs that appear

to have died due to the drought. We are seeing an increase in bare ground and due to the reduced amount of

grass production, litter cover on the soil surface is decreased. The litter (organic remains of previous year‘s

growth) protects the soil from erosion and helps hold in soil moisture. We saw this in the 2002 drought but

over time the blue grama did recover. Other observations from the 2002 drought include ungrazed and

properly grazed areas seemed to recover more quickly than over-grazed areas. Pastures where grazing

animals were removed early in the drought recovered more quickly than pastures where grazing continued.

The concern now is this most recent drought has lasted several years and may continue. As the result

of blue grama losing its competiveness, we may see less palatable and invasive plants increasing such as

broom snakeweed, galleta, red three awn and all types of annual weeds. Rangelands are resilient but proper

grazing management and a little luck in the form of precipitation will be needed for the native vegetation to

make a full recovery. Full recovery may take years or even decades depending on past management and

precipitation.

To finish my drought story, the clouds did roll in exactly as my grandfather predicted and we sat on

the folding chairs in the rain. We sat there for quite a while enjoying the cool and the wet relief from a brief

drought. My grandmother came and made us get out of the rain. She thought we didn‘t have sense enough to

come out of the rain; she was right.

Editor’s note: Recent rain has greened up the prairie, but according to sources at NRCS and the US Forest

Service, many sites are green due to weeds. Fortunately, other sites show signs of healthy perennial grass

growth. Recovery will be an ongoing process and depends on past management practices and precipitation

this fall and winter.

CSU Extension Youth Programs

Enrollment for Pueblo Youth Naturally and 4-H begins soon.

Please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo County

at 719-583-6566 for more information.

Pueblo County prairie in the fall of 2007,

after a summer of good rain.

Photo by M. Reynolds.

7

I recently visited Don and Katy Settle to learn more about Don‘s passion for vegetable gardening. Before we

even sat down to talk, Don and Katy had picked fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers for me from their

beautiful garden.

Did you grow up in a gardening or farming family?

No, but at an early age I spent a couple of summers working on a farm in Penrose. At age six, my job there

was to raise rabbits. While in high school, I worked a couple of summers on a cattle ranch in Westcliffe and

loved every minute.

I got into gardening when Katy and I were first married, living in an apartment complex that is now the

location of the Pueblo Mall. Along with two neighbors, we made a huge garden and grew everything

imaginable. At harvest time, the rest of the neighbors showed up! My biggest weakness, when we bought a

house, was roses. I‘d plant them, they‘d look good for a year, and then they‘d die. Over the years, I spent

thousands of dollars (money we didn‘t have) on roses.

You were a Colorado Master Gardener (CMG) for many years. Any favorite memories?

When I retired in the early 90‘s, I completed the CMG course and learned how to grow roses. I served as

President of the Farmers Marketeers for three years, including the year we moved the Farmers Market to

Midtown. It wasn‘t a popular decision at first, but it had to be done; Mineral Palace couldn‘t accommodate

vendors‘ trucks and customer traffic. Two other CMG

activities I enjoyed were planting trees at local schools

on Arbor Day and mentoring 4-H students in gardening.

Weren’t you also involved in the Food Preservation

program through CSU Extension?

After agreeing to test pressure cookers at the market on

Tuesdays, I took the Master Food Safety Preservation

class, learned how to make jerky, and eventually taught

several classes. I learned about canning from Katy‘s

mother. And I love the finished product!

Tell me about your vegetable gardening apparatus.

I built the frame from landscape timbers. Then I

mounted a series of 20-gallon pots on the frame and

installed the drip system and canopy. Each tomato

plant has a companion marigold, which keeps insects

away. Every year, when I remove the dead plants, I

replenish the remaining soil with peat moss, compost and time-release fertilizer.

What is the best part about working at the Pueblo West Garden Center?

I like helping people. Even if a customer brings in a soil sample that looks like it came from a rock pile, I can

help him plant in it. My formula: 1/3 native soil, 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss. I also encourage new residents

to visit the Xeriscape Demonstration Garden at Cattail Crossing.

The Pueblo West Garden Center has a large stock of xeric perennials, in response to demand and because it‘s

the right product to offer. I firmly believe in the seven steps of xeriscape, and homeowners would be wise to

follow them. We can‘t continue to irrigate thousands of square feet of Kentucky Blue Grass lawn. Even if

we‘re willing to pay $300 or $400 water bills, there is a limit to the water that‘s available. And, a garden

of xeric perennials is so much more attractive, wouldn‘t you agree? Yes.

PERENNIAL PEOPLE

DON SETTLE, SALES ASSOCIATE, PUEBLO WEST GARDEN CENTER by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007

Don Settle shows off his vegetable garden apparatus, consisting of a platform, containers, and shade cloth. Photo courtesy of E. Brideau

If you need any special accommodation(s) to participate in any Colorado State University Extension event, please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo

County at 719-583-6566. Your request must be submitted at least five (5) business days in advance of the event. Colorado State University,

U.S. Department of Agriculture and Pueblo County cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.

8

Garden Tip: Declining Health of Blue Spruce in Home Landscapes

CSU Extension offices and the CSU plant laboratory have received numerous calls regarding spruce trees with

purple needles and declining health. Some homeowners have heard that a fungus is causing the problem, but that has not

been confirmed on any sample submitted to the plant lab.

According to Dr. Tamla Blunt, ―The purpling needles can be caused by many things…drought/temperature

extremes/cold temps before the tree has hardened off/wind desiccation/root compaction/salts/herbicide damage.‖ She

reports that, ―Any talk of needlecast disease in spruce has been rumor‖. This means that drought, improper irrigation,

fluctuating temperatures, and poor soil conditions are the most likely cause of health problems on blue spruce.

According to Dr. Blunt, ―Spruce trees are not as drought tolerant as we once thought. Blue spruce need more consistent

watering and winter watering to help them survive. Also, the needles falling from the inside of the tree usually indicate

stress on the tree. It is trying to shed older needles so it can send energy and food to the current year‘s needles‖.

If you would like to send a blue spruce sample to the lab, please contact your local CSU Extension office for

details or see CSU Extension fact sheet 7.246 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07246.pdf.

Become a Colorado Master Gardener! Colorado Master Gardeners learn in local

gardening classes, at state-wide seminars,

while attending field trips, by answering

questions from clients and by doing it

themselves.

The majority of CMG training courses will be

taught via CSU‘s well-developed Distance

Education Program. All classes will have

local staff as facilitators and experienced

Colorado Master Gardeners will be available

to answer questions and assist with hands-on

activities.

Course Schedule: Dates: January 23—March 27

Days: Thursdays

Time: 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Location: CSU Extension/Pueblo County 701 Court Street, 2nd Floor

Pueblo, CO 81003

Applications available October 1st online,

http://pueblo.colostate.edu/hor/hort.shtml, at

the location listed above, or by calling

719-583-6566.

Training Options

To be considered for the Colorado Master Gardener

Volunteer Option:

Ability to volunteer 50 hours

Complete and submit CMG application

Complete background check

Provide references and attend an interview

Sign volunteer commitment agreement

Must attend 80% to complete

Pay reduced tuition (cash/checks only):

Before Jan. 3—$135 + manual fee

Late fee assessed Jan. 6-10—$185 + manual fee

To be considered for the Colorado Gardener

Certificate Option:

There is no volunteer commitment

Complete and submit CGC application

Pay tuition—$535 + manual fee by Jan. 21

Required Course Textbook: Nationally recognized Science of Gardening manual,

compiled by CMG State Coordinator David Whiting.

Available in:

hard copy for $90

electronic version (from publisher) for $78.40

9

DIGGING DEEPER

THE WELL-TENDED PERENNIAL GARDEN reviewed by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007

This book first came to my attention in 2007, while working as a volunteer in the CSU Extension

Office in Pueblo. At that time, my experience with perennials was very limited but I was determined to

feature them in my new landscape. It became apparent after just a few minutes of sampling the chapters that

this was a ―must-have‖ book. My copy is now well-worn, with pages dog-eared, especially useful passages

highlighted, and notes written in margins.

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques by Tracy DiSabato-Aust

thoroughly discusses the requirements for successful perennial gardening – design, bed preparation, planting

techniques, and maintenance. Although hundreds of gardening books cover

this same territory, the author does an especially good job of explaining why

and how to perform important gardening tasks. Her intended audience

includes home gardeners and professional landscapers who maintain their

clients‘ gardens or educate their clients on proper maintenance. The chapter

on preparation for winter and spring is especially helpful for beginning

gardeners who may be unaware of the benefits of winter interest and habitat.

Nearly one-third of the text is devoted to an explanation of pruning.

Drawings illustrate where to make deadheading cuts on a variety of plants,

how to pinch, cut back, and thin. The author even suggests tools that work

especially well for each technique. Photographs illustrate the benefits of

properly timed pruning, often comparing plants that were pruned to those that

were not.

The second half of the book features a 160-page encyclopedia of

perennials, listed alphabetically by botanical name. Each full-page entry

includes a color photograph and begins with information typically listed on a

plant label, followed by a detailed discussion of suggested pruning, other maintenance, and related plants.

Following the encyclopedia are blank maintenance journal pages, designed for the reader to document in

detail their own experience with pruning, feeding, pest control, etc. Because each page is devoted to one

particular plant during one season, readers may wish to copy these pages or use them to design their own

journal.

Appendix A is devoted to the care of ornamental grasses. Appendix B is a suggested month-by-month

schedule for planting, general maintenance and pruning of perennials. Because the schedule is a guideline for

Midwest gardens, it should be adjusted for regional conditions. Appendix C contains 36 plant lists by specific

pruning and maintenance requirements, for example: clay busters; lower maintenance perennials; perennials

that may require division every 4-5 years; perennials to deadhead to lateral flower, bud or leaf; perennials

with seedheads that attract song birds; perennials that require maintenance in the spring.

Gardeners in our region may disagree with a few of the author‘s suggestions, which she acknowledges

are based on her experience in the Midwest. However, this book provides valuable instruction in pruning

techniques that are applicable to plants in all regions and encourages readers to experiment with pruning to

enhance the beauty and health of their perennials. It is a worthy addition to any gardener‘s library.

Garden Tip: Fall Lawn Care

Fall is a great time to give your cool season lawn some extra attention.

Fertilization, aeration, reseeding, and weed control are all easily done as the weather

cools off. Remember to schedule irrigation days on your calendar. For details on fall

lawn care, please visit the CSU Extension website at www.ext.colostate.edu/ and type in

‗fall lawn care‘.

10

The Dogs Are Moving In—Prairie Dogs by Marcia Weaber, Colorado Master Gardener, 2005, and Native Plant Master, 2007

Prairie dogs have become an urban as well as a rural problem in Pueblo County. The most abundant

and widely distributed is the black-tailed prairie dog (Cynomys ludovicianus), which is named for its black-

tipped tail. They are communal rodents that live in colonies called ―towns‖. If not controlled, their numbers

can increase by 20% per year.

Prairie dog adults may live from 5 to 8 years. They feed mostly on grasses and forbs from which they

obtain needed water. They also consume flowers, seeds, shoots, roots,

grain, grasshoppers and other insects when available. The prairie dog

town is notable for its close cropped appearance. The animals eat the

grasses and chew off the plants they deem inedible. Prairie dogs want

a clear field of vision so they can see the approach of predators.

Prairie dogs are most active during the day. In the summer,

during the hottest part of the day, they go below ground where it is

much cooler. Black-tailed prairie dogs are active all year, but may

stay underground for several days during severe winter weather.

The family life revolves around rearing one litter of pups per

year, usually consisting of one to six pups. The pups emerge from the

burrows in May or June. The survival rate of the young prairie dogs is

very high due to the vigilance of the town, with sentinel prairie dogs

acting as a predator alarm system. Predators that invade the burrows include badgers, and weasels. Coyotes,

bobcats, foxes, hawks, and eagles also kill prairie dogs. Prairie rattlesnakes and bull snakes may take young,

but rarely take adult prairie dogs.

One species that does not prey on prairie dogs but lives in their burrows is the Burrowing Owl, a rare

species that is considered threatened in Colorado and needs to be protected. Whatever method of control used,

be observant of the possibility of the burrowing owl. Watch for signs of the diminutive owl by droppings on

the burrow. In Colorado, burrowing owls are a migratory species, and can be found almost anywhere there

are prairie dog burrows from late March or early April through October. During winter, Colorado owls

migrate to Mexico and Central America. Continued on page 11

Black-tailed prairie dog. Photo courtesy

of Alfred Viola, Northeastern University,

Bugwood.org

Is It Safe? by Lois Illick, Extension Agent, Family and Consumer, CSU Extension/Pueblo County

How do you know if a food preservation recipe is safe? Because it was Grandma‘s and no one has

died (yet!) is not an indication.

The only recipes that we can say are safe are the ones that have been tested to be safe. That means

someone has taken the time to check proportions, acid levels, processing and methods. The best web sites

are .edu and .gov. Other web sites may not adjust for elevation, know the details of food characteristics in

preservation, or other food safety principles.

One of the best web sites is the National Center for Home Food Preservation http://nchfp.uga.edu/.

They have a huge variety of recipes and information. Any of the land grant

universities like Colorado State University (jerky research), New Mexico State

University (chili heaven!) or Purdue or Cornell, will have food preservation tips.

Alaska has some of the best recipes for fish, but unless you are really experienced,

only do pints and not quarts of fish.

If you have questions on food preservation, call your local Extension agency –

we know this stuff!

Subscribe to this quarterly horticulture newsletter by contacting Carolyn at 583-6574. Available in paper and electronic formats.

11

Prairie Dogs continued from page 10

In the urban setting, natural predators will not be effective as most tend to stay away from human

habitation. Control of the rodents is by human intervention.

Public health is a primary concern regarding prairie dog colonies that are in close proximity to

residential areas and school yards. Prairie dogs are susceptible to plague, a severe infectious disease caused

by the bacterium Yersinia pestis. Plague is often fatal to both humans and prairie dogs, and can be transmitted

by the bite of an infected flea. The disease is curable if diagnosed and treated in its early stages. It is

important that the public be aware of the disease and avoid close contact with prairie dogs and other rodents.

Several types of control are available for use in the urban landscape. Fencing for the exclusion of

prairie dogs is rarely practical, although they may be discouraged by tight-mesh, heavy-gauge, galvanized

wire, 5 feet (1.5 m) wide, with 2 feet (60 cm) buried in the ground and 3 feet (90 cm) remaining aboveground.

A slanting overhang at the top increases the effectiveness of the fence. The main problem with fencing is the

inability for complete exclusion because of driveway and walkways.

Toxic baits are another method and fairly effective way to control prairie dogs. Toxic bait is most

effective when prairie dogs are active and when there is no green forage available. Therefore, it is best to

apply baits in late summer and fall. Zinc phosphide baits

can only be applied from July 1 through January 31. The

only toxic baits currently registered and legal for use to

control prairie dogs are 2% zinc phosphide-treated grain

bait and pellet formulations. Zinc phosphide baits are

effective and relatively safe regarding livestock and other

wildlife in prairie dog towns including the Burrowing Owl,

if used properly. These baits are available through national

suppliers. Zinc phosphide is a Restricted Use Pesticide,

available for sale to and use by certified pesticide

applicators or their designates. Contact the Colorado

Department of Agriculture at (303) 239-4100 for

information on acquiring EPA certification.

Other products that are effective are aluminum

phosphide and gas cartridges. Aluminum phosphide is a

Restricted Use Pesticide, registered as a fumigant for the control of burrowing rodents. The tablets react with

moisture in prairie dog burrows, and release toxic phosphine gas (PH3). Use a 4-foot (1.2-m) section of 2-inch

(5-cm) PVC pipe to improve placement of the tablets. Insert the pipe into a burrow and roll the tablets down

the pipe. Place crumpled newspaper and/or a slice of sod in the burrow to prevent loose soil from smothering

the tablets and tightly pack the burrow entrance with soil. To increase efficiency, work in pairs, one person

dispensing and one plugging burrows.

Gas cartridges have been used for many years to control prairie dogs. When ignited, they burn and

produce carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and other gases. To prepare a gas cartridge for use, insert a nail or

small screwdriver in the end at marked points and stir the contents before inserting and lighting the fuse. Hold

the cartridge away from you until it starts burning, then place it deep in a burrow. Burrows should be plugged

immediately in the same way as with aluminum phosphide. Be careful when using gas cartridges because they

can cause severe burns. Do not use them near flammable materials or inside buildings. Gas cartridges are a

General Use Pesticide, available through USDA-APHIS-Wildlife Services. They provide up to 95% control

when applied correctly.

No matter what method is applied to eradicate prairie dogs, safety needs to be the first consideration in

handling the product. When a license is required, or if the landowners are uncomfortable with the idea of

handling the products, it might be advantageous for several landowners to pool their resources and hire a

person to work the acreage that is infested by prairie dogs. It is recommended that a target of 90% eradication

of prairie dogs be achieved. From personal experience, it will be an ongoing problem unless all area

―towns‖ are treated.

Bait should be scattered over a 6-inch circle at each burrow

entrance. Illustration from Prairie Dogs, published by the

Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management,

http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/PrarieDogs.asp.

12

HARMONIOUS HARDSCAPES

AN EASY-TO-DO “TREE” FOR CLIMBING PLANTS by Ed Roland, Native Plant Master, 2009, and Colorado Native Plant Society –SE Chapter President

After finding that the metal trellises sold at garden centers were too short and otherwise inadequate for

my Climbing Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans), I decided to make my own 7-foot "tree for climbing plants."

This tree idea should work great for many other vining and climbing species; another common example would

be ornamental grape. And it's a simple project requiring minimal tools.

First, the materials you need* are:

2 x 20-foot 1/2-inch diameter metal reinforcement rods (aka rerods or rebar), available at any home center, cut

in half to make four 10-foot sections. Home centers will almost always cut them for you on request.

3 high quality stainless steel pipe clamps. Any size of 1/2" or so width that will fit around the four rerods. (If

you have a welder, you can just weld the rerods together.)

1 bag of concrete.

1 or 2 narrow boards and a piece of wire or cord for holding the tree in place while the concrete sets.

Tools:

Propane torch. This is one of the cheapies that use the mini-tanks from the hardware store. A welding/cutting

torch also works.

Level for making sure your tree is plumb

Shovel or post hole digger

Screwdriver for the pipe clamps

Vicegrip or pliers

Assembly:

1) Lay out rerods on a horizontal surface.

2) Install one pipe clamp just below where you want "branches"

on your tree. My clamp was just over 3 feet from the end of

what would be the branches. (See the illustration.)

3) Install another pipe clamp about 20 inches from the other end of

the four rerods.

4) Divide the remaining space in half and install the third pipe

clamp. Tighten clamps as much as possible but be careful not

to strip the mechanisms.

Shaping the tree:

Heat a section of each rerod with the propane torch just

above the pipe clamp while pulling down on the end with a vice-

grip or pliers. When the rerod becomes hot enough, it will soften

and easily bend into position.

You can control the kind of bend you get by how much of the rerod you heat up. A longer section heated

will give you a more gradual bend. If you heat only a small section, you'll get a relatively sharp bend.

A bench vise to hold the assembled rerods makes this a bit easier, but it's not really necessary.

Important: You want to pull the rerods in diametrically opposite directions to get maximum separation

between the four branches.

I put a double bend in my tree branches, but any shape will do. I also put a very slight bend in the

other end of the rerods to keep them secure in the concrete. Continued on page 13

Drawing by E. Roland

13

“Tree” continued from page 12

Installing the tree:

1) Dig a 12-inch diameter hole, approximately 18 inches deep, where you want your tree.

2) Set the tree in place and wire or tie a board or two to keep it vertical. Check for plumb with your level and

put a rock or other weight on the ends of the board(s) to keep the tree stable.

3) You can mix the concrete, or just pour it in dry and then add water. Use a stick or narrow piece of board

to mix the concrete in the hole by moving it up and down until all of the concrete is wet. A bit of excess

water isn't a problem since the soil will absorb it.

4) Double check the plumb, adjust if necessary, and then allow the concrete to set.

Final notes:

I spray painted my tree before installation, but the growth is so profuse that

this turned out to be an unnecessary step.

I bought a Campsis radicans from a nursery and also started four more plants

from seed for a total of five trumpet vines planted around the base. This

resulted in complete coverage of the tree with vines and a few flowers the

very first year. The tree's second year flowers were profuse and much

appreciated by the many hummingbirds visiting it.

-----------

*One enhancement I added, but later thought unnecessary, was a short piece of

chicken coop fencing wrapped and wired around the "trunk" to help get the vines

climbing. This might be important for other vining plants, but I found the

Campsis radicans vines really didn't need any help to find their way up the tree.

Photo courtesy of E. Roland

The spurge family (Euphorbiaceae) is a large, diverse, group of plants with a

few common characteristics and many variations between individual species in the

family. The common themes of Euphorbiaceae are imperfect flowers (separate male

and female), colored bracts, and milky sap. The flower parts are often reduced to just

the essentials. Carpellate flowers consist of a single superior ovary with three lobes

elevated on a pedicle (see drawing). The staminate flower is reduced to a solitary

stamen. Showy bracts (colored leaves) and nectariferous glands serve to attract

pollinators. Identification of individual species involves morphological differences in

leaf structure and arrangement on the stem, variations in hair on leaves, if the plants

are monoecious or dioecious, and the presence or absence of stipules.

Worldwide, the family includes species

that produce rubber, cassava, tapioca, castor oil,

arrowroot, and the toxin ricin. The family also

includes houseplants such as croton, poinsettia,

and crown of thorns. Native Euphorbiaceae

include Agaloma marginata (Snow on the

mountain) and Chamaesyce fendleri (Fendler‘s

sandmat). The family also contains Tithymalus

myrsinites (Myrtle spurge) and T. esula (Leafy

spurge), introduced plants listed as noxious

weeds in Colorado.

FABULOUS FAMILIES

EUPHORBIACEAE—THE SPURGES by Linda McMulkin

Agaloma marginata is

commonly seen along local

highways in late summer.

Photo and drawing courtesy of

the United States Department

of Agriculture Plant

Database,

http://plants.usda.gov/java/.

14

GARDEN WALKS

PUEBLO WEST XERISCAPE DEMONSTRATION GARDEN by Pat Stuckey, Vice-President and General Manager, Xeriscape Gardens at Catttail Crossing

The award winning Pueblo West Xeriscape Garden at Cattail Crossing covers a half acre on the north

side of Cattails Crossing Park and Pond at the intersection of McCulloch Blvd. and Joe Martinez Ave.

The garden is zoned by the plants‘ needs for water, soil, and light. Themed beds include ornamental

grasses, roses, butterflies, Pueblo West natives, and a rock garden. New for 2013 is a Prairie Area that

shows Buffalo grass as a turf, mixed grasses left natural (mown once annually), and grasses mixed with

prairie flowers. Plants are labeled with their proper botanical names.

Cattail Crossing Park is about 10 acres, centered around a 4-acre pond. There is parking available on

the northwest corner of the park, adjacent to the golf course parking lot. A 1/3 mile trail circles the pond and

connects with a trail that parallels McCulloch Blvd.

Between the pond and the trail are several fishing

piers for children 15 and under. There are picnic

tables with shade covers. The parking lot, loop trail,

and fishing piers are all ADA (handicapped)

accessible. The park is open to the public year-

round during daylight hours.

The Xeriscape Demonstration Garden is

designed, planted and maintained by The

Gardeners at Cattail Crossing, usually referred to

simply as ―The Gardeners.‖ Sponsorship and

financial support has been through the Gardeners‘

own fund-raising efforts, Pueblo West Metro

District‘s Parks and Rec Department, Pueblo West

Women‘s League, and various other entities

including Plant Select®.

In 2010, the Xeriscape Demonstration

Garden was designated a Plant Select® garden,

one of 78 in Colorado, Montana, Utah, and

Wyoming. Plant Select® is a cooperative program administered by

Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University in concert

with horticulturists and nurseries throughout the Rocky Mountain

region and beyond. The purpose of Plant Select® is to seek out,

identify and distribute the best plants for landscapes and gardens

from the intermountain region to the high plains. See more at

http://plantselect.org. A qualifying garden must have good design,

maintenance, and an educational program. Plant Select® plants are

used throughout the garden in appropriate zones.

The Pueblo West Xeriscape Garden at Cattail Crossing was selected to receive the Showcase Garden

Award for 2013 from Plant Select®. The award was given, ―In recognition of exceeding the program‘s

expectation through the creation and maintenance of an exceptional public demonstration garden‖. Other

Honors: In 2006 the garden received $2,500 as a finalist for Scott‘s Community Beautification Gardener of

the Year Award. In 2009 the garden received a Keep Pueblo Beautiful Award for outstanding Non-Profit

Landscape.

―The Gardeners‖ can be found working in the garden every Friday morning during the growing

season and welcome questions.

Views from the path above the garden and

one of the main walkways.

Photos courtesy of L. McMulkin