Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 17 Tuesday 23 February 2010 FASHION AND...
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Transcript of Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 17 Tuesday 23 February 2010 FASHION AND...
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Fashion in History: A Global Look
Tutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 17
Tuesday 23 February 2010
FASHION AND CONSUMERS’ LIFESTYLES, 1950-1990
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1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter
Paul Poiret in the 1940s
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Christian Dior, 1905-1957
1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter
Marcel Boussac
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Yves St. Laurent (1936-2008)
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Gianfranco Ferré 1944-2007 Hedi Sliimane (1968 - )
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2. Pret-à-Porter
prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) was invented by Jean Claude Weill in 1949
and should be distinguished from the expression ‘ready-made’
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2. Pret-à-Porter
Lipovetsky thinks that prêt-à-porter changed the rules of fashion:
1. it provided an alternative between couture and mass;
2. it allowed a stronger link with the fashion of the new fashion leaders: the young;
3. and in the long-run couture disappears entirely
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3. The Birth of Italian Fashion
The first Italian Fashion catwalk was organised by Giovanni Battista Giorgini in Florence on the 12 February 1951
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Salvatore Ferragamo’s Workshop in Florence before the second world war
Present at the Florence show, 12 February 1951:
Sorelle FontanaEmilio SchulberthJole VenezianiEmilio Pucci,Salvatore Ferragamo
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Creation of the Sorelle Fontana, early 1950s, inspired by a Renaissance painting
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Actor Tyrone Power married Linda Christian in Rome in 1949.The bride wore a dress by Sorelle Fontana.
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Audrey Hepburn (1929-1993) with Salvatore Ferragamo (1899-1960)
Ava Gardner (1922-1990) wearing the ‘Pretino’ (little Priest) dress by the Sorelle
Fontana
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Sofia Loren (1934- ) with Jayne Mansfield (1933-67)
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Elio Fiorucci opened 300 shops in Italy in the 1960s
Fiorucci’s advert of the 1980s
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Missoni’s zig-zag knitwear Krizia
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‘Milano da Bere – Milan to Drink in the Ramazzotti Advert came to symbolize the refined atmosphere of the Italian capital of fashion in the 1980s
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4. The 1980s
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5. The End of Class and Nationality?
The possible decline of ‘class’ as a way of structuring fashion should be qualified in three ways:
1. subcultures provide a different way of ‘reading’ society;
2. Society is more flexible and malleable. Bauman talks about a ‘liquid society’;
3. We should differentiate between the UK and the rest of Europe.
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6. Youth Fashion Culture
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James Dean and Marlon Brando, both wearing jeans
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