Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 11 Tuesday 12 January 2010 4-5pm...
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Transcript of Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 11 Tuesday 12 January 2010 4-5pm...
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Fashion in History: A Global LookTutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 11Tuesday 12 January 20104-5pm
PRODUCING FASHION IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY: INDUSTRIES AND ARTISANS
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Three Parts
A. Changes in how Clothing was sold, c. 1750-1850
B. Changes in the production of textiles, c. 1770-1840
C. Changes in the manufacturing of clothing, c. 1840-1914
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"High Change, Rag-Fair" : outdoor view of rag fair, High Change, Wellclose Square, Stepney. Guildhall Library, London
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Uniform of an 18th-century Russian Officer
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Ready-mades were sold in large ‘warehouses’ (a warehouse in the 18th-century is a large shop that sell at cheap prices)
Example:
Bromley’s “Linen and Shirt Warehouse” in Charing Cross in London advertised that:
‘Any Gentleman having and immediate Call for ready made Shirts may be supplied with any quantity from 5s 6d to 21 s.’
Tradecard, c. 1750
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Advantages of ready made:
1. Allows for choice
2. Allows browsing
3. Allows shops to sell a variety of commodity, normally at cheap prices
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2. Mechanisation and Industrialisation in Textile Production
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Petticoat and bodice. Produced in India.TAPI Collection, New Delhi, 05.12
Marie Antoinette en Chemise, 1783. Hessische Hausstiftung, Kronberg.
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Textiles Imported from Asia into Europe by the EIC and VOC, 1665-1834 (pieces per year on average over 5-year periods)
0
200.000
400.000
600.000
800.000
1.000.000
1.200.000
1.400.000
1.600.000
1.800.0001665-1669
1675-1679
1685-1689
1695-1699
1705-1709
1715-1719
1725-1729
1735-1739
1745-1749
1755-1759
1765-1769
1775-1779
1785-1789
1795-1799
1805-1809
1815-1819
1825-1829
period
no. o
f pie
ces
per ye
ar
EIC
VOC
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Fustian Jacket, c. 1630-60 said to have been presented by Charles II to Mary Grove. V&A
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Spinning Jenny, invented by Hargreaves in 1767
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Richard Arkwright and his water frame1769
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Model of the power Loom invented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785
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Stocking Frame invented by William Lee, 1578
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Jacquard loom invented in 1804, with punched cards
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‘The Development of the clothing industry… does not conform to traditional visions of the industrial revolution as a catalytic combination of entrepreneurial genius and sublime machines’
Michael Zakim, ‘A Ready-Made Business: The Birth of the Clothing Industry in America’, Business History Review, 73, 1 (1999), p. 65.
3. Clothing and Manufacturing
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Isaac Merritt Singer (1811-1875)
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Woman using a sewing machine, 1862, wood engraving entitled ‘Le Progres’, New York’, Science Museum, London, 1985-2094
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Thomas Hood’s ‘The Song of the Shirt’ (1843)
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