Enhance Me LED Colour therapy

Enhance me LED colour therapy Version 1 TB 2020

Enhance Me LED Colour therapy


Welcome to Enhance Me Training Academy. We are so pleased to welcome you into our academy and are looking forward to getting to know you

and share our knowledge and expertise with you.

Our academy courses have been planned and created by Aestheticians, Medics, Beauty Therapist’s

and Skin Care Specialists and are carefully tailored to give you all you need to perform highly skilled

treatments with amazing results. All our courses are CPD accredited, meaning they are fully

recognised by your insurers.

Our team are here to support you throughout your training and are always available to chat at any

point during or after your time with us.

We really hope you enjoy your learning experience,

Abi

Clinical Director,

and the Enhance Me Academy Team.

Verity Farr, Clinic and Academy Manager: 07944 889710 [email protected]

Jake Purcell, Business Development Manager: 07572 237661 [email protected]

Sarah Roberts, Academy Tutor: 01787 224636 [email protected]

Tina Byers, Academy Tutor: [email protected]

mailto:[email protected]





Aims and Objectives

Aim: To competently plan and carry out a LED colour therapy treatment

Objectives: To achieve the aim we will cover the following:

Benefits and effects of LED colour therapy treatments

History of LED colour therapies

Anatomy and physiology of the skin

Health and Safety

Contra-indications

Consultation

Skin types and analysis

Product and equipment knowledge

Practical application of LED colour therapy to the face & body

Aftercare

Insurance

Clinical Hygiene & Safety


Benefits and Effects of LED Colour Therapy

What is LED colour therapy?

Light is the fastest thing in the universe, therefore making the treatment benefits work quicker. It is

a completely non-invasive therapy to encourage the body to begin to heal itself. LED therapy is a

great 'add on' to complement most treatments performed in salons and clinics.

Different colours will have different effects

on the skin.

For example, blue UV light is used in the

treatment of psoriasis.

The treatment is non-invasive with no

sensations being felt during the treatment.

The light works on a cellular level similar to

that on photosynthesis in plants.

In the beauty and cosmetology

industries light therapy is where

coloured lamps are used to stimulate and

decongest the skin and muscles. Different

colours are used to either stimulate the

circulation and lymphatic flow, or to calm and decongest areas. By directing coloured light towards

the affected areas of the face, or body, can encourage physical healing. This method is commonly

used in dermatological practice, again blue light has been shown to be effective in treating

symptoms of jaundice in newborn babies.

How does colour therapy work?

The wavelengths penetrate the skin and work on an

intercellular level. It targets the mitochondria, which is

the power supply to the cell, resulting in rejuvenation. In

simple terms the light recharges the battery so the cell

can work better.

When cells change it can lead to improved oxygenation

and detoxification of the skin. This will help to improve

the skins moisture levels, leading to an improvement in

the signs of ageing.


A (brief) History of Colour Therapy Year Scientist/psychologist and the scientific results found

Ancient times Ancient Egyptians built spa type rooms that allowed light to come through the windows. The windows were paned with coloured glass so that when the sun shone through it bathed them in their chosen colour.

1500BC Documents, written in Indian Sanskrit, mention the use of coloured lights to heal physical ailments

1260 French medic, Henri De Mondeville (1260-1320) recorded using red light to successfully treat smallpox and also left his patients with minimal smallpox scarring.

1665 The infamous Isaac Newton experimented with light passing through prisms (now known as the process of refraction). He discovered that white light is made up of the colours associated with the rainbow. Isaac Newton was the first person to understand the rainbow and its spectrum of colours!

1876 Augustus Pleasanton used blue light to stimulate secretory glands and the nervous system; he found it to be very effective in treating a variety of diseases, especially those accompanied by pain.

1878 Edwin Babbitt published ‘The Principles of Light and Color’. He developed the Chromo disc for treating patients using specific colours and Solar Elixirs (water charged by the sun), made by irradiating water with sunlight and filtering it with special filters. He found that the ‘sensitised’ water had special healing properties. Solar tinctures are still manufactured today and are used very effectively by colour therapists.

1890-1900’s Ultra-violet was discovered to have a powerful anti-bacterial action. Neils Ryberg Finsen was awarded the Nobel Prize for his work in treating skin tuberculosis with ultra-violet light. Dinshah Ghadiali developed the Spectro-Chrome system of healing after 23 years of exhaustive scientific evaluation. This was based on the relationship between colors and specific areas of the body.

1920 Dr. Kate Baldwin, Chief Surgeon at Philadelphia Woman’s Hospital, used Dinshah’s methods for many years and is quoted as saying “…after nearly 37 years of active hospital and private practice in medicine and surgery, I can produce quicker and more accurate results with colours than with any or all other methods combined – and with less strain on the patient…”. Harry Riley Spitler developed the principles of Syntonics (from ‘syntony’ – to bring into balance) in which light is used to balance the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems. His College of Syntonic Optometry is now at the forefront of developments in ocular phototherapy. Spitler is generally considered to be the father of coloured light phototherapy.

1940’s Emmitt Knott developed a haemoirradiation machine. He went further than Dinshah and Spitler and administered light to the whole body by irradiating just a small volume of blood. Knott found that irradiating just 50-100cc of blood with ultra-violet light and re-transfusion back into the


patient had a dramatic impact in the treatment of puerperal sepsis, peritonitis, encephalitis, polio and herpes simplex. By 1947, around 80,000 patients had been treated with success rates of 50-80%.

Due to the discovery of antibiotics light therapies were pushed aside. Also with the conflicts of the world wars these therapies were ‘forgotten’ about until the 1970’s

1970s- 80’s John Ott demonstrated that different wavelengths of light have specific influences on cellular function in both plants and animals. He coined the term ‘mal-illumination’ (a condition similar to malnutrition, caused by poor, unbalanced diets) and suggested that humans may be subjecting themselves to this condition by spending so much time under artificial lights. He helped develop the first ‘full-spectrum’ fluorescent tube and in the early 1970s and undertook a study on the effects of ‘full-spectrum’ light on school children. Behaviour and academic performance improved markedly. John Ott published a series of seven articles (1980’s through 1990’s) in the International Journal of Biosocial Research – a medical journal out of Tacoma, Washington – that was titled ‘Color and Light: Their Effects on Plants, Animals, and People’, the articles summed up Ott’s decades of independent research on the effects of natural light.

1980’s-90s Fritz Hollwich discovered significantly increased levels of stress hormones (ACTH & cortisol) in people working under artificial ‘cool-white’ fluorescent tubes. Further to his findings, ‘cool-white’ fluorescent tubes are now banned in German medical establishments. Canadian Harry Wohlfarth validated Hollwich’s findings and examined the effects of different colours on classroom performance. Laser-based light therapy was used in many clinical and experimental settings which led to non-invasive treatment of illnesses. NASA applied the use of light emitting diodes (LED)-based light therapy units for healing wounds in astronauts (wounds take longer to heal in zero-gravity conditions).

2000s In 2002, the US FDA (Food & Drug Administration) cleared blue-light therapy for acne treatment. In 2012, Vancouver General Hospital started using light therapy and cut post-surgery infections by 39%.

This history is just another reminder that these new technologies are not really new and are just a reinvention or rediscovery of therapies from a long time ago. This happens constantly within the beauty and aesthetic industry and it a reminder of how they can relate to medical practices.


Health & Safety

The Health and Safety at Work Act covers all health and safety legislation. Put simply it sets the basic

rules that must be followed. It applies to everyone, employers, employees and the self-employed.

Under this Act it states it is the responsibility of everyone to work in a safe and healthy manner.

Every employee, while at work, has to take reasonable care for the health and safety of themselves

and of others (clients and other staff members) who may be affected by the employees’ actions or

lack of actions. You need to know the person to report a risk or hazard to.

A risk is when there is a potential of danger, i.e. when you are treating a client you may spill

water on the floor if care is not taken.

A hazard is when there is actual danger, i.e. the water is on the floor and people are likely to slip

and fall.

Every employee must co-operate with their employer, with regards to health and safety

legislation, to enable the employer to implement and maintain health and safety policies within

the salon (this is a legal requirement).

There is a number of special regulations that come under the Health and Safety at work Act of 1974,

a lot of the legal requirements that affects the employer, there are items of legislation that affect

the employee as well. The following legislation affects you in the beauty industry.

The Workplace (Health, Safety & Welfare) Regulation

The Manual Handling Operations Regulations

The Provision and use of Work Equipment Regulations

The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations (PPE)

The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH)

The Electricity at Work Regulations

The Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations

The Health and Safety and First Aid Regulations and the reporting of accidents

Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR)

Fire Precautions Act

General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR)


Health & Safety Legislation A simple breakdown of each act or legislation-

Health and Safety at Work Act

Protects almost everyone involved in working situations whether it is within a salon or as a

mobile therapist. It states the responsibilities of the employer and employee and all the other

acts come from this one (umbrella act)

Your responsibilities are to ensure your own safety and that of others, to co-operate with your

employer on health and safety issues.

The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations

The regulations cover legal requirements for: Maintenance of workplace equipment, ventilation

and indoor temperatures, lighting, cleanliness and handling of waste materials, workstation

and flooring, facilities for staff to rest and eat, drinking water, sanitary conveniences.

The Manual Handlings Operations Regulations

The regulations apply to occupations where manual lifting occurs.

The employer is required to carry out a risk assessment that should address: Risk of injury, the

manual movement involved and physical constraints the load occurs, individual lifting ability,

any action to take to minimise the risk involved.

The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations

The regulations state the duties for the employer and the person using the equipment.

Covers all equipment whether old or new.

Manufacturers’ instructions for the equipment.

Training for use of the equipment.

Maintenance of the equipment.

The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations (PPE)

The Employer has to provide suitable and sufficient protective clothing and equipment for all

employees to use and employees to use it. Type of PPE in a salon could be: disposal gloves,

masks, glasses, apron.


Health & Safety Legislation The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH)

Relates to the control of substances i.e., products, gels and sprays etc. It relates to the storage,

handling, using and disposal of the products (remember SHUD). You must follow manufacturers’

instructions, salon policy and local by-laws.

Safety data sheets provide information on chemical products that help users of those chemicals to

make a risk assessment. They describe the hazards the chemical presents, and give information on

handling, storage and emergency measures in case of accident. These sheets can be requested from

the suppliers of the products. These can then be used to write risk assessments.

The Electricity at Work Regulations

It is a requirement for the employer to maintain electrical equipment in a safe condition and

have equipment checked by a suitably qualified person.

It is the employees’ responsibility to report any known faulty equipment to the employer or

manager. And label the equipment and remove from use.

Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR)

It is the responsibility of the employer to report to the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) certain

work related accidents, diseases and dangerous occurrences, i.e.: accidents resulting in more than

three days off work, major injuries, deaths, certain diseases.

Firefighting equipment

Types of extinguishers:

Water – Red, Used on paper, wood and hair fires. Must not be used on electrical fires.

Foam – Cream, Used on liquid fires but can be used on small paper, wood and hair fires also.

Must not be used on electrical fires.

Carbon dioxide CO2 – Black, Used on electrical and burning liquid fires.

Powder – Blue, Used on electrical and burning liquid fires.

Fire safety procedures

You need to make sure that you are aware of and have training for the fire evacuation procedures in

your workplace.


Health & Safety: Data protection General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR)

This protects information that is personal including contact details and medical information

gathered. This information is usually gathered when completing record cards, consultations

and appointments. Information needs to be stored securely and not shared with anyone

without there being a valid reason to.

What is GDPR?

GDPR stands for General Data Protection Regulation. It’s a game-changing data privacy law set out

by the EU which came into force from May 25th, 2018.

The Data Protection Act 1984 – states all information taken from the client must remain at all

times private and not disclosed or discussed with anyone else apart from the client.

The Data Protection Act requires client information be used by the therapist only and not given to

anyone else without the client’s permission. Client information and any notes you keep must be

secure in an area where no-one else will have access to them, i.e. in a locked drawer or password

protected area if kept on a computer. Clients have the right to ask to see personal data you hold

on them.

Check & update the way you gain consent For the purposes of GDPR compliance, consent means that you can use a person’s data only for the purposes that they have given you their express consent for. This also relates to any information that you’ve collected before GDPR came into play.

For example, if you collect a customer’s email address or telephone number when they book an appointment, you could claim that the lawful basis for collecting that data is that of ‘Legitimate Interest’ if you use it to send a confirmation or an appointment reminder. However, you can’t then simply decide to add that customer’s details to your marketing list so you can send them your latest special offers.

This is unlikely to be considered a legitimate interest, and would instead need you to gain the person’s express consent to use their data for that purpose. If you’re ever in doubt about which lawful basis to use when collecting data, consent is typically the best one to go for as it makes it absolutely clear that you have outright consent to use data for a specific purpose.

With that in mind, now is the time to look at the way you gather data and ensure that where you are using consent, you’re doing so in accordance with three rules:

That you’re obtaining the data fairly That you’re gaining explicit consent to use the data given for a specific purpose That you make it clear to the individual how they can withdraw their consent should they

need to


Health & Safety Legislation Client Confidentiality Confidentiality is an important part of the therapeutic relationship between a client and a

therapist. Whilst carrying out a consultation it is important for you to stress that all personal

information relating to the client will remain completely confidential, and that information will

not disclosed to a third party without the client’s written consent.

You can help maintain client confidentiality by:

• Carrying out the consultation in private, or as privately as possible

• Ensuring that all consultation and treatment records are stored in a secure place and

never left lying around

• Never discuss a client’s personal details or their treatment with another person

Insurance

Beauty therapists must gain as a minimum public liability insurance. They may wish to also look at

home and car insurance if using it for business purposes. Some treatments will also need licences to

be obtained.

Insync Insurance Website: www.insyncinsurance.co.uk

Personal presentation

Remember the importance personal presentation looks professional especially when iy comes to

first impressions.

Clothing should not be too loose, it may be caught in equipment and cause harm or a baggy

sleeve can dangle on the client.

Jewellery can scratch the client, or may get their hair or clothes tangled up in it. You could catch

your tools on rings or chains. Water can collect under rings and may contribute to dermatitis.

Shoes need to be enclosed to protect your feet from dropping tools. If you accidentally drop a

pair of scissors the shoes will help to protect you. If the heal is too high it may contribute to

fatigue or back pain.

Nails need to be short to avoid scratching the client during the treatment. If nail polish is worn it

needs to look professional and not chipped.

Hair needs to be in a style that can be kept out of the way when performing a treatment.

In addition to looking the part it is important that person hygiene is maintained too

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Health, Safety & Hygiene Sterilisation and sanitisation

Effective hygiene is necessary to prevent cross-infection and secondary infections. Cross-

infection occurs through micro-organisms, that are contagious, being transferred through

personal contact, touch or by contact with infected equipment that has not been sterilised.

Secondary infections can occur as a result of the client having an open cut or wound, prior to

the treatment starting or by an injury caused during the treatment, and micro-organisms

penetrating into the skin causing an infection.

Sterilisation and sanitisation are methods used to destroy or minimise harmful micro-

organisms that can cause infection.

Sterilisation - This is total destruction of all living micro-organisms/germs.

Sanitisation - This is the destruction of some but not all micro-organisms spores.

Sterilisation and sanitisation techniques that are carried out in beauty salons involve the use

of heat and also chemical agents such as antiseptics, disinfectants and vapour fumigants

Methods of sterilisation

Why do we sterilise?

The therapist has a moral, and legal obligation, to take measures to reduce the risk of cross-

infection.

Law/Legislation requires that businesses take certain measures.

Beauty therapy/nail services codes of practice, which are in existence, must be followed to

ensure you do breach the law. The local environmental health officer has the ability to close a

salon and/or enforce fines and in extreme cases imprisonment.

Your insurance policy may become invalid if you do not follow certain procedures. In the event

of prosecution, your insurance company will not pay out if you did not adhere to legislations


Health, Safety & Hygiene Health and safety to prevent cross-infection

To prevent cross-infection, the following procedures should be taken:

Sterilise all tools before and after each client.

Therapist/nail technician must wash their hands before and after each client.

The client’s hands must be cleansed and checked for contra-indications prior to treatment

starting.

Towels should be washed at temperatures starting at 60°c.

All work surfaces should be wiped down with a chemical solution, eg disinfectant before you

set up for a treatment and after you have tidied away after each treatment

Before any tools are put into any steriliser they must be washed with soap and water first.

Preparation of your Work Area:

Your treatment area should be clean and sanitised and depending on if you are combining other

therapies that need a clinical set up with the couch set up of a plastic wipe able cover, and no couch

cover or towels, sheets or pillows. This is due to the risk of contamination from bodily fluids. All

tools must be sanitised and cord and devices covered in barrier film and/or disposable protective

cable covers.

Gloves, apron and a face mask must be worn by the practitioner and a hair net by the client

Creating a sterile work area:

A sterile work area ensures maximum hygiene practice during the procedure.

A full and thorough client consultation and consent form must be completed prior to the following.

These steps should be observed:

Spray the couch in barbicide solution, allow 10 minutes for it to activate and cleanse

thoroughly.

Dry it and cover the couch in barrier film, a plastic couch cover or cling film at the head area.

Spray and then cover the tray or trolley top shelf with film as above

Begin treatment


Anatomy and Physiology of the skin

The Skin:

The skin is the largest organ of the body. The skin functions in a number of different ways to protect

us from external elements:

• Prevents the absorption of harmful substances

• Helps regulate body temperature

• Acts as a barrier to keep out infection

• Melanin in the skin protects us from the harmful effects of UV light

• Provides a waterproof coating that prevents us from becoming dehydrated

• Provides an energy reserve in the form of stored fat

The skin covers the entire surface of the body and weighs approximately one ninth of our total body

weight. It is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the soles of the feet. The skin is continually

shedding and renewing itself. We are able to feel sensations such as pain or heat because of sensors

in the skin which transmit messages to the brain and outer skin plays a major role in maintaining

body temperature and in protecting the body from harm

The skin varies in colour due to age, race inherited factors and external factors such as climate. The

skin can vary in thickness depending upon where it is on the body, i.e., eye and lip skin is very thin

whereas hand and foot skin is thicker. The thickness of the skin can affect its colour, for example

thin skin will look more pink as the blood in subcutaneous tissue will show through, whereas thicker

skin, such as on the soles of the feet, tends to look yellow.

There are also medical reasons for skin colour to change such as with rashes where the skin will be

more red, heart or lung conditions which will turn the skin blue, or jaundice which will yellow the

skin.

With age and sun damage the skin will lose some of its elasticity due to lack of collagen, at which

time wrinkles will appear. The skin secretes an oily substance known as 'sebum' which will help to

maintain the skin's suppleness, although there are no sebaceous glands on the palms of the hand or

soles of the feet.

The skin is made up of

three layers called:

• Epidermis

• Dermis

• Subcutaneous


Anatomy and Physiology of the skin Epidermis

The epidermis is the upper portion of the skin

and consists of five layers:

Cell regeneration occurs in the epidermis by the

process of mitosis (cell division). It takes

approximately a month for a new cell to

complete its journey from the basal cell layer

where it is reproduced to the granular layer

where it becomes keratinised, to the horny layer

where it is desquamated.

Dermis

The dermis lies below the epidermis, and connects with the basal layer and is often described as the

“true skin”. It is responsible for the strength and elasticity of the skin. It contains lots of specialised

cells and structures, including nerves, blood

vessels, glands and hair follicles.

It consists of two layers:

Papillary layer - This is the upper section

and contains small tubes called capillaries,

which carry blood and lymph. It also has

nerve endings. This layer provides nutrients

for living layers of epidermis. It contains a

thin arrangement of collagen fibre.

Reticular layer- Consists of two types of

protein: Elastin fibres which give the skin its

elasticity Collagen fibres which give the skin

its strength

These fibres are held in a gel-like substance called ‘ground substance’. The collagen and elastin fibres

form a strong network which gives us our youthful appearance.

As we age, these fibres in the skin begin to harden and fragment; the network starts to break down

and our skin starts to lose its elasticity and show visible signs of ageing. Blood circulation to the skin

declines; nutrients do not reach the surface, resulting in sallow skin. The fatty layer beneath the skin

grows thinner so we look more drawn as our bone structure is more prominent. The reticular layer

is vital to our skin’s health and appearance and so it is essential that it is looked after in order to

prevent signs of ageing.


Anatomy and Physiology of the skin Subcutaneous layer

The subcutaneous layer is situated below the dermis.

It consists of adipose tissue (fat) and areolar tissue.

The adipose tissue helps to protect the body against

injury and acts as an insulating layer against heat loss,

helping to keep the body warm. The areolar tissue

contains elastic fibres, making this layer elastic and

flexible. Muscle is situated below the subcutaneous

layer and is attached to bone.

Adipose Tissue

This is a loose connective tissue whose specific

purpose is to store fat. Adipose tissue is found under

the skin and around organs, it acts as a food reserve.

As it is also a poor conductor of heat it assists in

maintaining body temperature by preventing heat

loss.

It is thought that massage affects the adipose tissue

as it softens the hard fat under the skin and helps to

disperse it.

The distribution of the fat layer under the skin varies according to sex, age and lifestyle. Women

tend to have a thicker layer of adipose tissue than men, giving the female form a softer outline.

Following the menopause, women tend to put on weight in the more masculine areas such as the

waist and abdomen rather than the hips and thighs.

How does light therapy relate to the

anatomy of the skin?

The skin is designed to not allow

absorption of substances but light

therapies can easily penetrate the skin

without causing trauma or discomfort.

Each light works on a different frequency

and penetrates to a different depth

within the skin. As can be seen from the

image LED treatments have the ability to

penetrate further into the skin than

most aesthetic therapies and there is the

added benefit of it causing no pain,

discomfort or necessary downtime.


Skin pigmentation Clients who are seeking facial treatments may often suffer from pigmentation issues. Pigmentation

can range from freckles, hyper-pigmentation, hypo-pigmentation and post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation (PIH). PIH is a condition that will often cause a sufferer to seek treatments that

can reduce their pigmentation.

PIH is often caused when an injury, rash or blemish cause’s the skin to

become inflamed. This inflammation triggers melanocytes - the melanin-

producing cells – to release excessive melanosomes (pigment granules).

The excessive pigment granules darken and discolour the formerly

wounded area, remaining there long after the initial wound has

recovered.

The more inflammation there is, the more obvious the area of

discolouration will be both in terms of size and colour. In some cases,

where PIH is caused by acne or picking pimples, it can worsen the skin

condition, leading to increased hyperpigmentation.

In some cases, inflammatory acne can result in pink, red or purple coloured pigmentation, which is

more commonly referred to as post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). PIE refers to discolouration as a

result of damage to capillaries in the skin’s surface,

whereas PIH mainly refers to the pigment change

following a skin condition. Both PIE and PIH tend to

reduce with time, although acne scarring can be

textural and permanent. PIH often affects people

with acne and it can sometimes be triggered by skin

treatments such as dermabrasion and chemical peels.

LED light therapy is a great alternative treatment to offer clients who are not suitable for other

treatments due to the non-invasive nature of the treatment.

Skin analysis Before carrying out a treatment it is important to analyse a client’s skin thoroughly as it will allow

the therapist to:

Correctly determine the type of skin and conditions present

To identify any contraindications to treatment

Correct determine a suitable treatment plan which would incorporate: Salon treatments,

homecare routine and product choice

Aftercare and homecare advice

https://www.eucerin.co.uk/skin-concerns/acne-prone-skin

https://www.eucerin.co.uk/skin-concerns/acne-prone-skin

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Skin analysis The skin analysis is always carried after the superficial cleanse. The skin can only be diagnosed once

all the surface secretions have been removed and the therapist can also make judgements about the

skin as she cleanses it.

The client should be semi-reclined and not flat to allow the face to fall naturally.

A magnifying lamp must be used as good illumination and magnification are necessary for an

accurate diagnosis.

If the client finds the light too bright, cover the eyes with a folded tissue secured into the sides of a

headband or with damp cotton wool discs

Skin analysis is carried out through:

Asking questions, e.g.:

How do you find your skin?

What are your main concerns?

What products are you currently using?

Use the following as a checklist:

Comedones (blackheads)

Milia (whiteheads)

pore size

wrinkles or fine lines

broken capillaries

creepy skin

shiny oily patches

dry flaky patches

skin colour

skin age e.g. young or mature

skin texture e.g. fine or coarse

scarring and pigmentation

Often therapists make notes on face charts to

help record the clients’ characteristics on that day.

These can be good to keep a record of how the clients’ skin

is changing between treatments.

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Skin Analysis: Skin colourings & ethnicity Pigmentation

The main difference between darker skin tones and Caucasian skin tones is the dispersal of

melanocytes. In dark skins melanosomes (melanin pigment granules) are large and scattered singly,

in lighter skins they are smaller and packed together. Melanin has the ability to absorb free-radicals,

harmful particles in the environment, thus helping to fight against premature ageing. As the melanin

is bigger and more widely distributed in darker skin colours this, scientifically, proves that darker

skins will age slower than Caucasian skins.

Hyper-pigmentation= too much pigment in an area

Hyperpigmentation is where the skin has created too much melanin. This can be triggered by many

different things hormone imbalances, sun exposure, photo-sensitivity to products, acne and scaring.

Unfortunately the damage is often done before the pigmentation is seen and affects all skin colours.

The increased distribution of melanin pigment means hyper-pigmentation is greatly increased in

darker skins. Post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, also known as PIH, can develop after the skin

has been irritated or sensitised. This can occur from harsh beauty treatments, over-abrasion of the

skin e.g. strong soaps, products with high alcohol content and squeezing spots. Hyper-pigmentation

can occur in all skin colours but darker skins develop dark patches of pigmentation and Caucasian

skins will appear red, this is referred to as post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). This occurs as a result

of the healing process from injury. Irregular pigmentation can be a problem and is hard to treat.

Hypo-pigmentation= Lack of pigment in the skin

Hypopigmentation is a lack of melanin in the skin caused by depletion of melanocyte cells. This can

be caused by numerous reasons, frequently in people suffering from thyroid conditions, addisons

disease and pernicious anaemia. Other causes can include injury to the skin. Loss of pigment is highly

visible in darker skins but can occur on any skin colour.


Skin Analysis: Skin colourings & ethnicity

White/Caucasian skin

• Relatively thin skin – blood capillaries visible – also prone to broken capillaries

• Fewer and less sebaceous glands – therefore fine in texture

• Prone to burning in the sun due to less melanocytes

• Also ages and wrinkles prematurely

• Blue / pink tones

• Some skin tones can be darker, particularly if the parents have brown or black hair

• Red haired and blonde haired people have quite sensitive skin

East Asian and Southeast Asian

• Skin rarely shows blemishes, but can develop hyper-pigmentation, scarring and unevenness – therefore be careful if extracting blackheads.

• Ages slower than white skin – good tolerance to UV light

• Sebaceous glands are more active in the T-zone area, but not excessive

• Yellow and olive undertones

South Asian and Middle Eastern

• Melanin is quite high and skin tone can be yellow to dark

• More sweat glands – which can give a sheen – not to be mistaken for oiliness

• A strong skin, with supporting fibres – therefore ages well

• Pigmentation problems – particularly around and under the eye. Excess dark hair can be visible on the face and body


Skin Analysis: Skin colourings & ethnicity

Remember this is just a guide of typical characteristics linked to skin colour and ethnicity. Also mixed

ethnicity may have many traits linked across a variety of ethnicities.

Black skin

• This skin has the most melanocytes– therefore has more protection from UV light and sun damage

• Sebaceous activity gives good lubrication and moisture, resulting in a slower aging process

• Cell renewal is fast, as the skin desquamates well

• Collagen and elastin fibres are strong with good support preventing poor muscle tone

• Keloid scarring can occur when skin is damaged

• Although the epidermis is thicker, harsh products should be avoided.

• Dermatosis 21 apulose nigra occurs exclusively in black skins and more so in women. The condition forms brown to black lesions that resemble moles.

• Pseudofolliculitis barbae hairs are susceptible to growing back into the follicle, due to the natural curls, this can cause an inflammatory reaction (PIH) which results in tender spots. These spots often become infected and filled with pus and can be mistaken for acne. Shaving is a main cause of this condition, waxing can also be a cause.

Mediterranean/Latino skin

• Darker, olive skin tones – for people who live

along the Mediterranean coast line – Spain, Italy,

Portugal, Greece, France

• Sebaceous glands produce more oil to lubricate

skin in the heat and rarely suffers from blemishes

• Hair tones are darker, which makes facial hair

more visible

• Skin is strong and robust with good protection

from melanocytes and tans well in the sun


Contra-Indications Any Facial treatment aims to improve the condition and appearance of the skin. Treatments should

NEVER be carried out over areas of skin that appear sore or infected. The skin may react adversely

to the treatment and the risk of cross infection is high. If a treatment is carried out over infected skin

the infection could spread to other areas of the clients face or to the therapist

Prior to performing a treatment you must always do a skin analysis. There are two main reasons-

1. To check for contra-indications that may prevent or restrict your treatment.

2. To work out the best treatment plan for the client to meet their expectations.

Contra-indications are broken down into two categories-

1. Prevent- this means they are often contagious and a treatment cannot be performed.

2. Restricts- this means that you can still do a treatment but adjustments will need to be made to

the ‘standard’ treatment routine.

Common Contra-indications that prevent all treatments

Bacterial Infections-contagious conditions that often need antibiotics to treat

Impetigo

Highly contagious bacterial infection that causes the skin to form blisters which crack and weep. The

condition will appear red in colour and be very itchy to the sufferer.

Conjunctivitus

Bacterial condition that affects the conjunctiva (white of the eye) causing it to appear red/bloodshot

and to weep pus from the eyelid. This can often seal the eyelids shut.

Stye

A bacterial infection in the eyelash hair follicle. The eyelid will appear swollen and red and have a

‘spot like’ projection near the base of the eyelash. Often can be spread in sharing make-up items like

mascara wands.

Viral Infections

Herpes zoster/shingles

Painful condition and highly contagious. The virus attacks along the nerve endings causing redness

and itching of the skin along the nerve path. Blisters develop, similar to chicken pox, then forms

crusts. Can appear purplish pink colour on the skin

Herpes simplex/cold sores

Caused by the HPV virus and will cause the sufferer to present with a weeping blister commonly

around the lip. Once this virus is present in the body it will always be present and will only contra-

indicate a facial treatment when there is an active cold sore present.


Contra-Indications Fungal Infections

Tinea Corporis or Ringworm of the body

Commonly called body ringworm although it is not caused by a worm. Affects the skin by forming

red scaly patches which spread to form a circle with a clear centre and can be itchy. Very contagious

and spreads through direct and indirect contact.

Cancer

It is advised to get a doctor’s note when performing treatments on anyone suffering from cancer. It

is also recommended waiting until waiting for a confirm diagnosis of all clear too. Check what your

insurance company states regarding treating cancer sufferers.

During Chemotherapy

Chemotherapy is a treatment that is used to destroy cancer cells. Avoid doing a treatment when a

client is having chemo because their immune system is under attack therefore clients will have

strong side effects. Advise them to come back when treatment course has finished.

During Radiotherapy

This is a treatment that treats numerous conditions. It will stop a treatment taking place as the skin

will be very sensitive and the client is very susceptible to infection.

What are the contra-indications that are specific to LED colour therapy treatments?

If red, this also prevents the therapist performing the treatment.

•Photosensitive epilepsy- Some machines have the ability to set the lights to specific Hertz (Hz) and

this means that the lights will flash and can trigger an epileptic fit. Programs can

also involve changing lights during the treatment again causing flickering. As the practitioner will also

be exposed to this light this could also affect them too.

•Migraine sufferer- Migraines can be triggered through exposure to lights and again this would

expose the practitioner as well as the client.

•Porphyria- a genetic disorder that affects the blood, light can cause rashes, redness, itching and

swelling in the skin.

•Autoimmune disease- Autoimmune disease refers to illness or disorder that occurs when healthy

tissue (cells) get destroyed by the body's own immune system e.g Diabetes (type 1), MS, Addison's

disease. LED light therapies specifically work on the cell's in the body so if the body is already under

attack on a cellular level this treatment can further aggravate conditions.

•Pregnancy- as with most aesthetic and advanced electrical treatments they have not been tested

on pregnant subjects for ethical reasons

•Albinism- due to the lack of pigment and protection

•Psychological disorders e.g schizophrenia due to the lights triggering a manic episode


•Using photosensitive herbs or essential oils e.g st Johns wort, bergamont as this can cause

unwanted pigmentation and even burns on the skin!

•Eyes that are sensitive to phototoxicity and light to prevent irritation to the skin and headaches can

also be triggered.

If ever in doubt don’t do a treatment.


Skin Analysis: Skin types There are three basic skin types dry, combination and oily. Each skin type will have

characteristics/signs to help diagnose a skin type. Skin types can change so just because a client was

once diagnosed as dry that may not always be the case.

Oily skin:

This skin type is most common in teenagers and young adults due to the hormonal changes that take

place. Skin can also become oilier during hormonal changes such as pregnancy and menopause but

is not limited to this.

Oily skin characteristics:

Oily skin looks shiny and skin tends to be coarse and thick. Pores are larger and more visible. Due to

the excess oil, the skin is prone to shininess and there is more of a tendency towards congestion.

Skin colour can be sallow/yellow in appearance due to the build-up of oil and dead skin cells that

cannot flake off as they become stuck.

Dry skin:

This skin type is lacking in moisture, sebum or both. Often is found in ageing skin but is not exclusive

to this age range so don’t get into the mind-set of assigning a skin type to a specific age. Sometimes

this dryness can be brought on by not drinking enough water, certain types of heating in winter, and

being exposed to certain weather conditions for prolonged periods of time, these environmental

factors can therefore cause dehydration of the skin.

Dry skin characteristics:

The skin tends to have flaky skin patches, fine lines around the eyes and mouth. The skin texture

tends to be coarse and thin. Appearance of broken capillaries can be seen due to the thin skin and

pores will be tight. Milia (little white bumps) are often found around the eye and cheek area. More

signs of premature ageing can occur due to the lack of moisture and protection.

Combination skin (the most common skin type):

The term ‘T-zone’ refers to combination skin types where the forehead, nose and chin are oily but

the cheeks and the area around the eyes is either normal or dry.

Combination skin characteristics:

The ‘T zone’ is often accompanied with enlarged pores, coarse thick skin with possible sallow

colouring, congestion may be seen but may have limited signs of aging.

Dry areas are often accompanied by poor moisture content, small to medium pores, sensitivity and

redness, broken capillaries may be visible and visible signs of ageing may be seen.


Skin Analysis: Skin types Normal skin: The rarest skin type there is.

This skin is generally found prior to puberty and often referred to as balanced, because it is not too

dry or too oily. It is soft, plump and with small to medium sized pores. The moisture content is good,

with an even texture neither too thin nor too thick.

Normal skin characteristics:

Normal skin has good elasticity, healthy colour, is usually free from blemishes and is smooth and

firm to the touch.

Skin Analysis: Skin conditions In addition to everyone having a skin type clients may also have a skin condition too. For example

you can be a dry + sensitive skin.

Sensitivity

This appears on dry skin types and is characterised by being thin, delicate with fine pores and having

broken capillaries. Tendency to flush easily and may be prone to irritation.

Moist skin

This type of skin feels damp and appears moist due to the over secretion of sweat. This can be

caused by a hormonal or metabolic imbalance in the body.

The client should:

Use a lightweight cleansing preparation

Avoid high alcohol skin toning products

Avoid spicy foods, alcohol or hot drinks as these will cause the skin capillaries to dilate and therefore increase the skin’s temperature.

Dehydrated skin

This type of skin is one that has lost water from the skin’s tissues. The condition can affect any skin

type and can be caused by client’s general health: illness, fever (due to fluid loss caused by

sweating), medication, drastic dieting, Environment: low humidity or air conditioning

The skin has the following characteristics:

The skin has a fine orange peel effect due to the lack of moisture, superficial flaking, fine, superficial lines and broken capillaries.


Skin Analysis: Skin conditions Mature

The change in appearance of a woman’s skin during ageing is closely related to the slowing down of

the production of hormones oestrogen, progesterone and androgen during menopause.

The skin has the following characteristics:

The skin becomes dry, as the sebaceous and sudoriferous glands become less active

Loss of elasticity due to the hardening of the elastin fibres, wrinkles appear due to the cross linking and hardening of collagen fibres

Epidermis grows more slowly and the skin appears thinner

Small veins and capillaries show through the skin

Broken capillaries around the nose and cheek area

Facial contours become slack as the muscle tone becomes reduced

Patches of irregular pigmentation appear on the skin’s surface

Waste products are not removed quickly resulting in puffiness of the skin

Blood circulation becomes poor which affects the skin nutrition giving it a sallow appearance

In some instances dermal naevi may enlarge

Verruca filiforms may increase

Hair growth on the chin and upper lip may become darker and coarser due the hormonal imbalance of the body

Dark circles and puffiness may also occur under the eyes

Oedematous skin

This type of skin appears puffy and swollen because of the excess water being retained in the

tissues.

Causes:

Medical condition

Side effect of medication

Hot weather

Local injury

Poor lymphatic and blood circulation

Incorrect diet

Too much salt

Drinking too much coffee, tea or alcohol

The client should seek permission from the doctor before treatment is carried out.


Skin Analysis: Other factors The sex of the client

Males tend to have a more acidic skin surface and their stratum corneum/horny layer is thicker than

that of females. Males also have coarse facial hair and shaving regularly removes the stratum

corneum cells before they are ready to desquamate naturally. This can cause skin dryness and

sensitivity, especially with males using after shave lotions which are very high in alcohol and are

applied directly to the skin. It is important that moisturiser is applied to protect the skin

Also the male collagen structure is different from that of females. Sebum and collagen production

slows down in menopausal females causing the skin to age. Skin in the male does not seem to age as

quickly because their sebum and collagen production remains constant.

Males tend to have a facial to induce relaxation as well as improving their skin condition.


Common Colours used in LED Light Therapy For a LED colour therapy a practitioner has a choice of colours, this may vary from machine to machine

but the common colours are- red, blue, green and yellow.

RED

This colour is the deepest penetrating into the skin, going all the way into the dermis

Warming- so can have a psychological benefit as well as a physical benefit of stimulating the systems.

Rejuvenating- increases collagen production so especially good for client concerned with anti-ageing

Energising- boosting the ATP within the cell so it is charging the battery to full. This will have a

stimulating effect on all the systems by increasing blood flow & improving the function of the immune

system/ lymphatic system with the elimination of waste that can have a negative effect on the skin

and the tissues.

Decreases inflammation in injured tissues- especially good after more invasive aesthetic treatments

like micro-needling and chemical peels.

Good for Eczema and eases stiffness in joints.

The best light to use if combining with anti-cellulite treatments

YELLOW

Warming (like the sun warning the skin) so can have a psychological benefit as well as a physical

benefit of stimulating the systems. It has been linked to helping with lifting depression and improving

energy levels.

Toning for muscles- so especially good for client concerned with ageing and fine lines therefore helping

to smooth the skin for an anti-ageing effect.

Promotes the production of new collagen helping scarring and repair of the skin

GREEN

Cooling- so good for reliving redness (this is also the concealer colour used to colour correct redness

in correlation with the colour star). The best colour to use for anti-inflammatory conditions.

Regenerates & Speeds up lymph flow to help with waste disposal, this is good for decongesting the

skin.

Helps to fade skin discolouration if used regularly, as it helps to block tyrosinase, which is the enzyme

that signals the production of melanin; therefore can help to fade freckles and especially good for

clients who suffer from pigmentation disorders like PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).


Common Colours used in LED Light Therapy

BLUE

Cooling/soothing effect and reduces swelling on the skin so again good after other treatments that may have caused redness and irritation.

Eases insomnia for clients who are finding it hard to get 7 hours unbroken sleep.

Calms allergies and acne

Helps in the elimination of toxins that can cause congestion

Antibacterial effect on the skin, especially good for p. acnes bacteria that causes acne

Eases headaches on a physical and psychological level

Alleviates stress & tension in the jaw, neck & shoulders that could be linked to high stress levels and causing the headaches

Normalises sebum/oil production that can also be causing sebaceous cysts under the skin as well as physical congestion on the skin.


A-Z of conditions and effects of LED Lights used Condition & Effect Colour Condition & Effect Colour

Antibacterial Mental/emotional/psychological continued

Antiseptic Energising

Antispasmodic (relieves muscle spasms)

Grounding

Calming- Inner peace

Of acne conditions To encourage optimism

Of allergies To ease mental blocks

Of emotions Motivation

Of erythema Patience

Cellulite (reduction) Relaxation

Circulatory system- Muscular aches

Anaemia (low iron) Aches and pains

Low blood pressure Antispasmodic (relieves muscle spasms)

To decrease redness To ease muscle fatigue

To increase blood flow Toning

Cooling Nervous system

Endocrine System Activates

Hormones (stimulated) Improves function of

Fertility Stimulates (sensor and motor)

Immune system Regenerating-

Activates Activates

Improves the function To skin (deeper layers)

Strengthens To skin (superficial layers)

Inflammation- Relaxation

Anti-inflammatory Of the mind

Relief of Of the muscles

Reduces swelling Skin-

Lymphatic system Calming of acne

Activates Anti-ageing

Aids toxin elimination Antibacterial

Improves the function of Antiseptic

Speeds up lymph flow Calming allergies

Mental/emotional/psychological Production of collagen

To encourage assertiveness Easing eczema

Balancing Calming erythema

Calming the mind Regulating sebum

Calming emotions Skin discolouration

To increase confidence Smoothing of texture

To encourage communication Toning

To increase courage Warming

Creativity Of the dermis

To ease depression Of the epidermis

Uncluttering of the mind


Treatment Planning

To plan the treatment the therapist needs to choose the colours and the timings specific for that client.

The rules to follow are-

1. Choose no more than 2 colours to use in the treatment and a practitioner can stick with just one

colour.

2. The lights will need to be on for 15-25minutes for the client to gain the full benefits

3. Products (masks and skin care ampoules) can be applied to the skin during the exposure to the

light but the products MUST be clear and not contain any phototoxic ingredients (usually essential

oils and this will be see on the ingredient list or as a warning on the labelling or packaging).

Anything that is not transparent will stop the lights penetrating the skin making the treatment

useless and ineffective.

EXAMPLES OF PLANS-

A normal-combination skin-

Green, 10 mins to assist with reducing redness and regulating sebum production

Blue, 10 mins to have calming and antiseptic in epidermis

A dry skin, mature skin-

Red, 10 mins to have a warming effect to stimulate oil production to help dry skin & cell renewal to

help with ageing

Yellow, 10 mins= to increase collagen production and pigmentation usually associated with mature

skin

Have a think...

What treatment plan would you pick for yourself and why?


Treatment Planning & Procedure LED colour therapies can be combined with other and can achieve results quicker for your clients.

LED therapy can be added to-

chemical peel treatments

Micro-needling

Dermaplaning

Standard facials

Electrotherapy facials like high frequency and microcurrent treatment

Depending what type of machine you purchase treatments can also be completed on the body also.

Therefore helping with bacne (congested backs) and complimenting body toning treatments.

This is a visual representation of where therapies target in regards to the skin structure

So as can be seen if therapies are combined you will be able to target several layers of the skin to

maximise results.

Your basic routine would be-

1. Complete your procedure following your trained procedure (eg dermaplaning).

2. Once the procedure is complete, apply either collagen gel, skin care ampoule or a clear mask.

Remember anything that is not transparent will block the colours getting through. The skin can also

be exposed to the light without any products on.

3. PLACE THE SAFETY GOGGLES (THESE SHOULD COME WITH THE MACHINE. IF NOT THEN THEY ARE

THE GOOGLES USED ON SUNBEDS) OVER THE CLIENTS EYES AND TELL THEM TO KEEP THEIR EYES

SHUT TO PREVENT THE LIGHT DAMAGING THE EYES

4. Select program of lights and times that you have decided for the client's treatment plan and

complete.

5. Remove any necessary products and moisturise/SPF as your normal practice.


Aftercare advice

What is the homecare advice?

The advice will be the normal facial aftercare advice for the treatment you have completed but you

will need to also give advice on the ‘healing crisis’

What’s a healing crisis?

This usually happens after a

holistic therapy but can occur after

LED treatments as the treatment

works on the physical and

the psychological. A healing crisis

happens when the body is healing

itself. Symptoms can include

sleepiness or wide awake, loss of

appetite or really hungry, hard to

think clearly or very focused,

feeling nausea or feeling super

healthy.

If a healing crisis is experienced it’s a good thing and will only be for 12-24 hours. During this time

listen to your body, if you want to rest then rest as much as you can also drink plenty of water.


Types of Machines Available on the Market

When choosing the best type of machine for your salon/clinic you will often look at the pros and

cons of each types to help you to make your decision.

Below are a selection of some of the different types and some possible pros and cons (this list is not

exhaustive though)

LED (light emitting diodes) lights are safe to use as they do not produce harmful UV (ultra-violet) or

IR (infra-red) rays.

LED lights are low energy use so are more economical to use then normal bulbs but the bulbs cannot

be replaced once broken. When bulbs start to not work a whole new replacement is needed. As the

bulbs are low energy they can often last for over 10,000 hours.

New machines are always coming to market but this section will discuss the common equipment

models.

Mask Shaped Machines

Pros Cons

Can be worn when having treatments

like manicures and pedicures as they

often have a strap to hold them in

place

Limits light exposure to the therapist

Will be directly on the clients skin so

through sensitisation will be needed to

prevent cross infection

Claustrophobic clients may struggle

with this type of equipment

Can only be used on the face due to the

shape


Types of Machines Available on the Market Hand held machines

Pros Cons

Can be used on other areas of the body

not just the face

Some machines have this as an

attachment with other machines e.g.

Carlton to a microdermabrasion

machine that combines brush cleanser,

diamond head microdermabrasion and

LED attachments. This particular

machine has additional light settings of

Hz so that it flashes for different

depths.

Never contacts the skin so easy to

sanitise between clients

Good for claustrophobic clients

The therapist has to hold the

attachment so cannot use during

another treatments like mani/pedi’s

Have to keep moving over the skin as

only a small area is exposed to the light

at one time

Carlton Chromapeel machine


Types of Machines Available on the Market Bridge Machines

Pros Cons

Can be used on other areas of the body

not just the face

Never contacts the skin so easy to

sanitise between clients

Good for claustrophobic clients

Therapist does not have to hold

equipment and the whole face is

exposed all at the same time

Can sometimes come with additional

features like a steamer

Takes up a lot of space when storing

and transporting if you are a mobile

therapist


Types of Products Available on the Market

As previously explained the treatment can be complemented with a product sitting on the skin as

well as the skin being naked when under the lamp.

Products that you can possible use are-

SBC gels

SBC is a British based company that has a variety of gel based moisturisers that can be used as a

layer when completing a LED treatment.

These can be purchased from their website as well as some being available at Ellisons beauty

supplies. You can call then to discuss what options you could use and be mindful of avoiding

phototoxic products.

Another inexpensive product is skin truth collagen gel, available at Salon Services beauty supplies

Again just make sure that when the product is

applied to the skin that it is transparent to allow for

the light to penetrate into the skin and that the

product does not contain any phototoxic ingredients

(usually essential oils).

Can also use any leftover mesococktails from

needling treatments completed on the client as

another option.


To complete the course…

To complete the LED colour therapy course you will need to complete the test at the end of the

online course, this is the last section.

The pass mark is set at 80% and the test has 20 questions.

The test is a multiple choice test with no time limits and you can sit it more than once.

Good luck.

Enhance Me LED Colour therapy

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