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Page 1 of 12DP-00332 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998

It’s a Keeper

Neat, orderlystorage for yourWOOD® magazines

Do you keep back issues of WOOD magazine for reference? And, if you haven’tnoticed, starting with issue 153 WOOD magazine not only got thicker, but wider andtaller. To house both the past issues of WOOD magazine and the newly upsizedversion, build these handsome and handy magazine file boxes. These boxes are asgood looking as they are durable, and they’re dimensioned to fit both sizes ofmagazines. Included with the box designs are the box-joint jig plan and procedure tomachine this strong and decorative joinery.

Neat, orderlystorage for yourWOOD® magazines

TM

Page 2 of 12

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Page 3 of 12

Materials List, Small Box FINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Qty.A* sides ‹" 11¤" 9¤" M 2

B* back ‹" 11¤" 4fi" M 1

C* front ‹" 4" 4fi" M 1

D bottom fi" 4" 8fl" M 1

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Material key: M–mahogany.

Supplies: Drawer pull with card holder, semigloss clearlacquer.

Sources:Card pull: Solid brass card pull, no. 70763, $9.49 each.Call Rockler, 800/279-4441, or go to rockler.com.

Materials List, Large BoxFINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Qty.A* sides ‹" 11fl" 9¤" M 2

B* back ‹" 11fl" 4fi" M 1

C* front ‹" 4" 4fi" M 1

D bottom fi" 4" 8fl" M 1

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Material key: M–mahogany.

Supplies: Drawer pull with card holder, semigloss clearlacquer.

Sources:Card pull: Solid brass card pull, no. 70763, $9.49 each.Call Rockler, 800/279-4441, or go to rockler.com.

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Page 4 of 12

Rustle up some thin stockThe magazine file calls for ‹"-thick stock 11fi" wide for thesmall box, or 12" wide for thelarge box. You could constructthe file of plywood. But if youwant to use solid mahogany aswe did, here’s how.1 Joint one edge of a ‡×6×30"piece of mahogany. Resaw it intotwo ›"-thick pieces.2 Edge-glue the two resultingpieces along the jointed edges,both sawn surfaces facing up.(This is called book-matching.)3 Plane the book-matched stockto ‹" thick. Plane several piecesof scrapwood to the samethickness for setting up the box-joint jig later.4 Rip the piece to 11fi" for thesmall box, or 12" for the largebox. Refer to the Materials List,and cut parts A, B, and C tofinished length plus „". (Theextra length allows you to makethe joint fingers Î" longer. Youthen can sand the joints flushafter assembly.) Leave the partsoverwidth for now. Mark abottom edge on each piece.

Tackle the box joints next1 Refer to the article beginning onpage 5 for instructions on buildingand using our box-joint jig.2 Install a ‹" dado blade on yourtablesaw. Adjust the saw’s cuttingdepth to Ç".3 Install the jig’s ‹" indexing pin.(If you’re cutting the box jointswith another type of jig, install itand set it up for ‹" fingers Ç"long, following applicableinstructions.) 4 Saw fingers in two pieces ofscrapwood, and test the joint forfit. Adjust and retest as necessary.5 With the jig properly adjusted,saw fingers on both ends of partsA, B, and C, starting with a fingerat the bottom of each side (A) andmating fingers on parts B and C. 6 Rip the sides (A) and back (B) tofinished width, sawing the wasteoff the top edge. (For appearance,you could make the parts slightly

wider if necssary to avoid cuttingthrough a finger.) Cut the front(C) to the same width as A and B,but not to the finished widthshown. Sand the inside faces.

Build the box, cut a corner1 From scrapwood, cut fourclamping cauls, two that measure‡×7‡×11‹" and two that are‡×2‡×11‹" for the small box ortwo that measure ‡×7‡×12" andtwo that are ‡×2‡×12" for thelarge box.2 Cut the bottom (D) to thedimensions shown in theMaterials List. Dry-assemble partsA, B, C, and D to check fit.3 Apply white glue to the insideedges of each joint finger, using asmall brush. (White glue’s longeropen time allows you to glue andassemble all the joints before itstarts to dry.) Apply glue along theedges and ends of the bottom.4 Assemble the file box. Positionthe clamping cauls on the sidesand ends, and clamp the assemblywith band clamps. (We usedthree.) Ensure that the bottom isflush and the joints are tight.Clamp until the glue dries. Sandthe joints flush.5 Lay out the angled cutting lineon one side of the file box.Bandsaw the angle, cutting with afine-toothed blade. (To minimizechip-out, apply wide masking tapealong the cutting line on theinside of the side that will be upwhen you saw and the outside ofthe one that will be on thebottom.) Plane or sand the sawnedge smooth and straight.6 Finish-sand the box, usingprogressively finer sandpaperfrom 150- to 320-grit. Sandslight round-overs on theopening’s edges.7 Apply a clear finish. (Wesprayed on several coats ofsemigloss lacquer, sandingbetween coats.)8 Attach a brass file handle whereshown. Poke screw pilot holeswith an awl. (We installed a brasscard holder with pull.)¿

Produced by Marlen KemmetWritten by Marlen KemmetProject design: Gary WebsterGraphic design: Lorna JohnsonIllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna JohnsonPhotographs: Marty Baldwin©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998

The purchase of these plans does nottransfer any copyright or other ownershipinterest in the plans, the design, or thefinished project to the buyer. Buyer mayneither reproduce the plans for sale nor offerfor sale any copies of the finished project.

TM

Page 5 of 12

I’ve always liked boxjoints, and here’s why.They offer both strengthand unique good looks.Although not as refinedas dovetail joints, theycan be cut on a tablesawor router table using asimple shop-built jig. Notonly that, but I can use abox-joint jig on virtuallyany width or thickness ofstock. Our jig combinessimplicity of constructionwith micro-adjustability.Interchangeable indexingpins allow you to cut boxjoints of any size withouthaving to build a differentjig each time.

Jan Hale SvecAssistant Design Editor

A

View from back side of jig

I’ve always liked boxjoints, and here’s why.They offer both strengthand unique good looks.Although not as refinedas dovetail joints, theycan be cut on a tablesawor router table using asimple shop-built jig. Notonly that, but I can use abox-joint jig on virtuallyany width or thickness ofstock. Our jig combinessimplicity of constructionwith micro-adjustability.Interchangeable indexingpins allow you to cut boxjoints of any size withouthaving to build a differentjig each time.

Jan Hale SvecAssistant Design Editor

Indexing blocks stack on top of eachother, and store on the back side of jig.

Knob

3/8" flat washer

3/8" carriage bolt 41/2" long

13/32" hole

1/8" round-overs7/64" pilot hole1/2" deep

#8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screws

11/4"

21/8"

26"

*

* groove3/8" deep13/32" hole

3/8" carriage bolt

Miter-gauge guides

7/16" slot21/8" long

#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws

#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screw

7/64" pilot hole1/2" deep

5/32" hole,countersunk

on bottom side

EXPLODED VIEW

51/2"

3/4" notch 31/2" long

13/4" dado1/4" deep

*Actual thickness of 3/4" plywood

7/32" hole,countersunk

51/2"

13/4"

#8 x 3/4" F.H.wood screws

5/32" hole,countersunk

21/2"

21/4"

Double-faced tape

C

I

A

I

B

D

H

E

F

G

J

10-24 F.H. machine screw1" long with mating washer and nut

3" long

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Page 6 of 12

Let’s start with the fence assembly1 Cut the jig fence (A) to the sizelisted in the Bill of Materials andshown on the Parts Viewdrawing on page 9. (Due to itsstability, strength, and lack ofvoids we used ‡" [18mm actual]Baltic birch plywood.) 2 Mark the location, and cut the‡×3fi" notch along the bottom ofthe fence (A) where dimensionedon the Parts View drawing. Then,mark the location, and cut the 1‡"dado ‹" deep in the front face of thefence.

3 Measure the exact thicknessof your plywood, and cut agroove along the back side ofthe fence (A) where shown onthe Parts View and ExplodedView drawings. The grooveshould be as wide as yourplywood is thick. And, thegroove should be up from thebottom edge of your plywood adistance equal to the thicknessof your plywood.4 Mark the centerpoint, and drilland countersink a ¸" holethrough the fence for attachingthe handle (E) later. Mark light

lines on the back side of thefence for positioning the handleonto the fence later.5 Cut the backing plate (B) tosize. The backing plate is usedto minimize chipout whenusing the jig. You’ll need onebacking plate for each size offinger joint you’ll be cutting.The plate should fit snug, yetslide in the 1‡" dado in thefront face of the fence. Drill a˛" mounting hole through thebacking plate and into thefence. Screw the plate to thefence.

Plastic knob 3/8" flat washer

21/2"

21/2"

81/4"

11/4"21/4"

11/4"

10-32 all-thread rod4" long

9/32" hole 1/2" deep

7/32" hole2" deep

10-32 threaded insert

#10 lock nutand flat washer

1/2"

1"

1/2" notch1/4" deep

#10 flat washer

7/32" hole

11/2"

13/32" hole

1" counterbore 1/4" deep

3/8" carriage bolt 3" long

Plastic knob with #10 threadsinside knob. Epoxy the knobto the all-thread rod.

Indexing pin(key stock)

1/4 x 1/4 x 41/2"long (Make

different sizesas required for

box joints.)

1/4" dado1/4" deep

(sized to fitindexing pin)

1/2"

11/4"1"

3/8" holeADJUSTMENT ASSEMBLY

11/4"

41/2"

3/4"

1/2"

#10 lock nut

H

I

G

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Page 7 of 12

Add the base assembly for stability1 Cut the plywood jig base (C) tothe size listed in the Bill ofMaterials and dimensioned onthe Parts View drawing.2 Mark the location and cut theÁ" slot in the base where shownon the Parts View. Then, markthe centerpoint, and drill theÂ" hole through the base.3 Cut the base support (D) tosize. Using the dimensions onthe Parts View, locate the holecenterpoints, and drill the fivecountersunk holes in thesupport. With the back edgesand ends flush, glue and screwD to C. Make sure thescrewheads don’t protrudebelow the support and scratchyour tablesaw top later.4 Glue the fence (A) to thefront edge of the base (C),keeping the ends flush. Checkthat the fence is square to thebase. This is important foraccurate cuts later.5 Transfer the full-size handle (E)

pattern on page 10 to yourstock, and cut the handle toshape. Rout ¤" round-overs on thehandle where noted on theExploded View drawing. Drill amounting hole through the bottomof the base (C), and glue and screwthe handle to parts A and C.

For perfectly placed fingers, add the adjustment blockNote: The distance between thedado blade and the indexingpin has to be equal to the widthof the slot the dado blade willcut. This will ensure that thefingers and notches are exactlythe same size and that themating pieces fit togethercorrectly. The adjustment blockassembly allows you to adjustthe distance between the bladeand indexing pin to achieve aperfect fit of the box joints.

1 Cut the adjustment blockguide (F), adjustment block (G),and index slide (H) to size.2 Cut the fi" notch in the

adjustment block (G) whereshown on the Parts Viewdrawing. Then, drill a ˛" holethrough the center of thenotch. Glue the block to thebase (C), flush with the backface of the fence (A) and flushwith the end of the base whereshown on the pattern.3 Drill the holes in the indexslide (H) where shown on theAdjustment Assembly drawingand pattern insert. Drive a 10-32threaded into the Ç"counterbore, centered in theend of the index slide.4 Using the index slide (H) andadjustment block (G) as spacers,screw the adjustment block guide(F) in place. The index slideshould slide between the guideand fence (A) without slop.5 Secure the adjustment block(G) and index slide (H) togetherwith a 10-32 all-thread rod 4"long, locknuts, washers, and aplastic knob in the configurationshown on the AdjustmentAssembly and Parts View drawings.

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Page 8 of 12

13/4"

Sawblade

Backing plate

Center the jig so thebacking plate centersover the saw blade.

Fence

90° J

POSITIONING THE MITER-GAUGE GUIDES

Miter-gauge guides

B

A

Let’s form the indexing blocks for different sized fingers1 Cut the indexing blocks (I) tosize. Cut extras depending onhow many sizes of box joints youwish to cut. We recommend four(¤", ‹", fi", and ‡"). Drill a Â"hole with a 1" counterbore ‹"deep on the bottom side of eachblock where located on theAdjustment Assembly drawing.2 For a ‹"-wide index pin, fityour tablesaw with a ‹"-widedado blade, and cut a ‹" dado ‹"deep located fi" in from the endof the index block. Be careful tokeep the dado perpendicular tothe front edge of the indexingblock. where shown on theAdjustment Assembly drawing.3 From ‹" key stock, crosscutan index bar 4fi" long, andepoxy it into the ‹"-wide dado,keeping the back end of the keystock flush with the back edge ofthe indexing block.4 Repeat steps 2 and 3, keepingthe dadoes fi" from the end forthe other sizes of indexing pins.We used metal key stock (used tosecure pulleys to spindles) for the

¤" and ‹" pins and Baltic birchplywood for the fi" and ‡" pins.5 Secure an indexing block (I) tothe bottom side of the base witha 3"-long carriage bolt as shownon the Exploded View drawing.When the index blocks are notbeing used, you can secure themto the top side of the base whereshown on the same drawing.Attach the miter-gaugeguides, and add the finish1 Cut the miter-gauge guides (J)to size according to the widthand depth of the miter-gaugeslots in your tablesaw. Thethickness should be „" less thanthe depth of your miter-gaugeslots. Test-fit the miter-gaugeguides in the tablesaw slots.Then, using thin strips of plasticor wood, shim the guides in themiter-gauge slots so the topsurface of each guide protrudesjust above the surface of yourtablesaw. Doing this keeps thebottom surface of the jig fromrubbing on the tablesaw top.2 Mark a line on each guide 2‹"from the back end. Then, adhere a5"-long piece of double-faced tape

to each guide starting at the linejust marked. See the ExplodedView drawing for reference.3 As shown in the drawingabove, position the jig assemblyonto the guides, being careful tokeep the jig square to the blade.Press down firmly to adhere thetape-covered guides to thebottom of the jig assembly.4 Turn the base assembly over,and drill and countersink sixmounting holes through theguides and into the bottom ofthe jig base (C). Leaving thedouble-faced tape between theguides and base, screw theguides to the base bottom with#8ׇ" flathead wood screws. 5 Remove the hardware, thenfinish-sand all the wood pieces.Apply a clear finish to the partsto seal the parts and keep themclean over time. Reattach thehardware and reassemble the jig.6 If you used solid stock for themiter-gauge guides (J), apply abit of paraffin wax to the sidesand bottom of the two guides foreasier sliding of the guides in thetablesaw miter-gauge grooves.

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Page 9 of 12

PARTS VIEW

FENCE

125/8"13/4"

7" 31/2"26"

3/4"51/2"

2"

3/8"

5/32" hole, countersunk

13/4" dado 1/4" deep

*

* groove 3/8" deep along back side of fence *Actual thicknessof 3/4" plywood

A

*

151/2"

7/32" hole, countersunk

5/32" holes, countersunk on bottom side

GUIDE

F

41/2"41/2"5/8"

3/4"3/4"

101/2"

11/4"

5/32" holes, countersunkon bottom side

Note: Size width and thickness to fitmiter-gauge slots on your tablesaw.

MITER-GAUGE GUIDE

26"

21/8"11/16"

1" 6" 6" 6" 6" 1"

BASE SUPPORT

10"

23/4" 3/8"

D

J11/4" 33/8"

11/2" 1/4"

ADJUSTMENTBLOCK

7/32" hole

1"

1/2"

11/4"

21/2" G

3/8" hole9/32" hole1/2" deep

7/32" hole2" deep

21/4"

H

INDEX SLIDE

5"

7/16" slot 21/8" long26"

5/32" hole, countersunk on bottom

4"

Location of

Location of

BASE(TOP VIEW)

101/2"

3/4"

21/8"

27/8"

21/8"33/8"

21/2"11/4"

15/8"

25/8"

F

125/8"

3/8" hole

111/16"

Location of GLocation of A

C

E

81/4"

Handle locationE

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Page 10 of 12

4"

45/8"

1/8" round-overs

E

7/64" pilot hole1/2" deep

HANDLE

To ensure full-size patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measurefull-size patterns to verify size.

1"‹

fi‡

FULL-SIZE HANDLE PATTERN

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Page 11 of 12

3/4 x 24 x 48" Baltic birch plywood

1/2 x 31/2 x 24" Birch1/4 x 31/2 x 24" Hardboard

CUTTING DIAGRAM

*Plane or resaw to thickness listed in the Bill of Materials.

F

G I I

A

D

E

H

C

* JB B

Part

Bill of Materials

Mat

l.

Qty

.

T W L

Finished Size

A fence ‡" 5fi" 26" BP 1

B backingplates ‹" 1‡" 5fi" HB 4

C base ‡" 5" 26" BP 1

D support ‡" 2¤" 26" BP 1

E handle ‡" 4" 4fl" BP 1

F guide ‡" 1‹" 10fi" BP 1

G adjustmentblock ‡" 2fi" 1fi" BP 1

H indexslide ‡" 2fi" 8‹" BP 1

I indexingblocks ‡" 2fi" 5‡" BP 4

J miter-gaugeguides ›" ‡" 10" B 2

Materials Key: BP–birch plywood, HB–hardboard, B–birch

Supplies: #8ׇ" flathead wood screws, #8×1‹"flathead wood screws, ›" carriage bolt 3" longwith a flat washer and plastic knob; 10-32 all-thread rod 4" long with two locknuts, two flatwashers, 10-32 threaded insert, and mating knob;›" carriage bolt 4fi" long with a flat washer andplastic knob; 10-24 flathead machine screw 1"long with mating flat washer and nut; key stock;clear finish.

Hardware kit. All the hardware listed in theSupplies listing above. WOOD KIT BJJ1, $17.95plus $3.95 shipping. Schlabaugh and SonsWoodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA 52247or call 800/346-9663 to order.

Easy-to-assemble kit. All the pieces listed in thehardware kit above, plus all the Baltic birchplywood and solid-birch pieces cut to the sizelisted in the Bill of Materials. WOOD KIT BJJ2,$79.95, plus $8.50 shipping. Schlabaugh andSons Woodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA52247 or call 800/346-9663 to order. Or e-mail atschsons@kctc.net

Sources

Produced by Marlen KemmetProject design: Jan SvecGraphic design: Lorna JohnsonIllustrations: Kim DowningPhotographs: John Hetherington©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998

The purchase of these plans does nottransfer any copyright or other ownershipinterest in the plans, the design, or thefinished project to the buyer. Buyer mayneither reproduce the plans for sale nor offerfor sale any copies of the finished project.

TM

Page 12 of 12

A

D

B

C

Adjust or shim the dado blade tothe same thickness as the woodbeing box-jointed. Raise the bladeto the same height as the thicknessof the material being cut plus Î".As shown in photo A, adjust thedistance between the blade andindexing pin so the distance isequal to the width of the blade. Itmay be necessary to remove thebacking plate (B), and notch it toget the pin close enough to theblade. As shown in photo B, slide

How to make your box-joint jig do its thing

your stock against the pin, andmake the first cut. Position thenotch just cut onto the index pin,and make the second cut as shownin photo C. Repeat until the pieceis completely cut across one end.For the mating piece, place thefirst test piece on the index pin sojust one finger is on the blade sideof the pin. Position the secondpiece firmly against the first piece,and make the cut as shown inphoto D. Remove the first piece,and make the cuts along the end ofthe second piece.

Test-fit the two piecestogether. Chances are you’llneed to adjust the distancebetween the blade and pin. Ifthe fit is too loose, turn theknob clockwise to increase thedistance between the pin andblade. If the fit is too tight, turnthe knob counterclockwise todecrease the distance.

Test-cut scrap material until thejoints fit perfectly. With theindex pin properly located, lockthe index slide in place with thelarge plastic knob.¿