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DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.com

Page 1 of 13

In a seperate downloadable plan, we intro-duced this impressive Arts-and-CraftsCollection with the Morris-style chair shownbottom right. Here, we follow suit with thishandsome Coffee Table and Ottoman.

CoffeeTable andOttoman

Arts-and-CraftsCollection

TM

Page 2 of 13

H

TENON DETAIL

2fi"‹"

‹"

4"

3fi"

fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long

¤" chamfers

¤"

¤"fi"

I

G

C

B

A

H

22fi"

46"

2›"

2›"

2› x 2›" notchesin all four corners

¤" chamfer along top edges

G

#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screws

‰" slot fl" long

‰" hole

#8 x 1fi" R.H. wood screws

#8 flat washer

¸" hole,countersunk

7⁄64" pilot hole fi" deep 22fi"

18"

2fi"

41fi"¤" chamfers

H

fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long

A

fi x 2" mortisescut completelythrough leg

fi x 3fi" mortise cutcompletely through leg

fi" tenon 2" wide x 2fi" long

COFFEE TABLEEXPLODED VIEW

B

D

D

E

E

F

F

D

F

FD E

B

B

1„"

C

17‡"

TM

Page 3 of 13

CO

FF

EE

TA

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E C

UT

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M

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ne o

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the

Bill

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ater

ials

.

II

II

1„ x

7‹

x 9

6" O

ak

‡ x

9‹

x 9

6" O

ak

‡ x

7‹

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ak

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ater

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Matl.

Qty.

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Fin

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ize

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4

B ra

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23"

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C c

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lats

›

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3"

10

"

O

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n-is

hed

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ordi

ng to

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how

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stru

ctio

ns.

Mat

eria

ls K

ey:L

O–l

amin

ated

oak

; O–o

ak;

EO–e

dge-

join

ed o

ak.

Supp

lies:

6–#8

×1‹

" fla

thea

d w

ood

scre

ws,

6–#8

×1fi

" rou

ndhe

ad w

ood

scre

ws

with

flat

was

hers

, sta

in, c

lear

fini

sh.

1fi"

2"

2"

10"

Œ"fi"

Œ"

fi"

Œ"

3fi"

4fi"

fi x 3fi" mortise cutcompletely through leg

18"

fi x 2" mortisescut completelythrough leg

¤" chamfers along topand bottom ends of leg

2‹" 2‹"

COFFEETABLE LEG(4 needed)

Legs are laminatedfrom three ‡"-thick pieces.

A

TM

Page 4 of 13

Begin by laminating andmachining the legsNote: For an authentic look,

choose straight grain or rift-cut

stock, preferably white oak, for all

the pieces of this project.

1 To form the 2‹"-square legs (A),cut 12 pieces of ‡" stock to 2› by19". (Using thesedimensions, thepieces are oversized¤" in width and 1"in length so you cantrim flush the edgesand ends of the legs later.) See theLeg drawing at right for reference.2 Spread an even coat of glue onthe mating surfaces of the threepieces making up each leg. Withthe edges and ends flush, glue andclamp the pieces face-to-face toform the four legs.3 Cut or plane an equal amount offboth edges of each leg for a 2‹"finished width. Then, trim bothends of each leg for an 18" finishedlength. 4 Lay out the mortises on the out-

side surface of each leg wheredimensioned. (To ensure any pos-sible chip-out would be on theinside surface and covered by therail and stretcher tenon shoulders,we marked the mortisess on theoutside surfaces. We also drilledfrom the outside surface so the bitcame through on the inside.)5 Attach a wood top and fence toyour drill-press table. Using a Á"brad-point bit, drill holes inside themarked mortises. Square-up themortises with a chisel. You couldalso form the mortises with a mor-tiser. 6 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the topand bottom end of each leg.

Machine and assemble the end frames1 Cut the upper and lower rails (B)to the sizes listed in the Bill ofMaterials from ‡" stock.2 Fit your tablesaw with a ›" dadoblade, and cut a ›" groove fi"deep, centered along one edge ofeach rail. See the End Frame draw-

ing and accompanying detail forreference.3 Switch to a wider dado blade onyour tablesaw. Then, attach a longwooden extension to your table-saw’s miter gauge, and square theextension to the blade. Using astop for consistency, cut rabbets toform tenons on the ends of therails (B ). (We test-cut scrap stockfirst to ensure a tight fit of thetenons into the leg mortises.) Seethe Tenon detail accompanyingthe End Frame drawing for dimen-sions.4 Carefully sand or file the cham-fers on both ends of the throughtenons on the rails (B), where

shown on the Tenon detail. If youhave a small laminate-trim router,use a chamfer bit in it to machinethe tenon ends.5 Cut the center slats (C) and nar-rower side slats (D) to size. Usingthe Parts View on Page 8, transferthe cutout location to each centerslat. Drill a blade start hole, andscrollsaw the openings to shape.6 To form the spacers (E, F) cut apiece of stock to ›" thick by fl"wide by 48" long. Then, crosscutthe spacers (E, F) to length fromthis strip.7 To assemble the end frames,start by finding the center (fromend-to-end) of each rail, and mark a

TM

Page 5 of 13

3"

B

¤"¤" fi"

fi"

2‡"

‹"

2fi"

2"

TENONDETAIL

›" groove fi" deep,centered on bottom edge

2fi"

2fi"

18"

23"

›" groove fi" deep,centered on top edge

2fi"

1‹"fi x 2"-wide tenon 2fi" long

10"

1‹"

fl"

fi x 2"-wide tenon2fi" long

›"

COFFEE TABLEEND FRAME

B

FEE

F

D

D

E

F

E

F

B¤" chamfers along end of tenon

C

TM

Page 6 of 13

centerline across the grain.Starting with the center slat (C)centered over the centerline onthe bottom rail (B) and workingfrom the center out, add (no glue)the spacers (E, F) and the slats (D).Add the top rail (B). Trim the spac-ers if necessary. Then, fit (again,no glue) the assembly into the legmortises to check the joinery.8 Sand the legs and end framepieces. Next, glue and clamp thetwo frames together, checking forsquare as shown in Photo A.

Add the cleats and stretchers next1 Cut the cleats (G) to size.2 Mark the locations, and machinea pair of screw expansion slots oneach cleat where dimensioned onthe Parts View drawing. Mark thecenterpoints, and drill counter-sunk holes through each cleat.Screw the cleats to the inside faceof each top rail (B), keeping thetop edge of the cleats flush withthe top edge of the rails. Thereshould be a ¤" gap between theends of the cleat and the legs, soyou won’t see the cleat when thetabletop is attached later. See theNotch detail on the Parts View forreference.3 Cut the stretchers (H) to size.Cut tenons on the ends of thestretchers to fit snug inside themortises in the legs. See the Tenondetail accompanying the ExplodedView drawing for reference. Next,cut or rout ¤" chamfers on theends of the tenons.4 Glue and clamp the stretchersbetween the end frames, keepingthe frames square to the stretch-ers.

Edge-join pieces for a solid-stock top1 Cut four pieces of 1„" stock to5‡" wide by 47" long. Joint theedges of the four boards so thateach measures 5fl" wide.Note: Because of the weight and

size of the tabletop, we found it

more manageable to bandsaw

A

After checking the fit of all the pieces, glue and clamp the end frame,checking for square.

B

Notice the ¤"-thick spacers between the end-frame legs and tabletop.We used the spacers to center the top on the base when screwing theassemblies together.

TM

Page 7 of 13

STEP 2

Edge-join half of thetable. Repeat thisfor the other table half.

Trim ends to finishedlength (46") after these twoboards have been glued together.

2›"

2›"

2›"

41‹"Cut notches onoutside corners.

46"

20fl"

20fl"

Marked centerline

Mark notch cutlines.

1„ x 5fl x *47" boards dry-clamped together*Boards initially are cut 1" longer before edge-joining.

2›"

STEP 1

FORMING THE TABLETOP

41‹"

STEP 3

Use bar clamps tokeep ends of tablehalves flush across ends.

Edge-join tablehalves together.

Place clamp boardson both sides so clampsdo not dent the edges ofthe tabletop.

I

5fl"

I

5fl"

I

46"

the notches before edge-joining

the boards.

2 Mark a centerline across two ofthe boards. Measuring from thecenter out (you need to do this

because the boards are cut longat this point), mark the loca-

tions of the notches on oneof the boards. Now, as

shown in Step 1 of thethree-step drawing atletf, clamp two of theboards together, align-ing the centerlines.Use a framing square

to transfer the notch locationsonto the second board. Removethe clamps, and bandsaw thenotches in each board to shape.3 Edge-join one notched boardagainst a second unnotched board,keeping the surfaces flush. SeeStep 2 of the drawing for refer-ence. Repeat for the remainingtwo boards4 Remove the clamps and scrapeoff the excess glue. Crosscut theends of both table halves for a 46"long finished length, so that thenotches measure 2›" long. Now,being careful to keep the ends andnotches aligned as shown in Step 3

of the drawing, glue and clamp thetwo tabletop halves together,again checking to see that the sur-faces are flush. Later remove theclamps, scrape off the excess glue,and sand the tabletop smooth.5 Rout a ¤" chamfer along the top

of the tabletop (I). On the insidecorners of the notches, you’ll

need to use a sharp chisel tosquare-up the chamfer.

top expands and contracts withseasonal humidity changes.3 Stain as desired. (We usedMinwax Provincial #211, a goodchoice for imitating that time peri-od.) Or, see our Arts-and-Craftsfumeless finish article in theNovember 1998 issue of WOOD®starting on page 74. Apply the fin-ish. (We brushed on several coatsof satin polyurethane.) ¿

TM

Page 8 of 13

Finish-sand, stain, and clear-coat the table1 Finish-sand the table base andtabletop. (We sanded with 100-,150-, and finally 220-grit sandpa-per, using a bright light, in ourcase a halogen, at a low angle tocheck the surfaces for sandingmarks. Another method we use tocheck for sanding marks is tolighlty damped the surface withlacquer or paint thinner, then takea close look at it.)2 Place a blanket on your work-bench top, and place the tabletop

(I) upside down on the blanket.Center the base (also upsidedown) on the tabletop, keepingthe gaps around the notches even.Using the holes and slots in the legcleats as guides, drill pilot holesinto the bottom side of the table-top, and screw the assembliestogether as, shown in Photo B.Center the screws in the slots,tighten them, then back them offabout half a revolution. You wantthe screws to be able to move backand forth in the slots as the table-

C

17‡"

22fi"

2›"

2›"

2›"

46"

41‹"2›" 2›"

5fl"

5fl" 2› x 2›" notches

¤" chamfer along top edge

TOP VIEW

COFFEE TABLEPARTS VIEW

10" Coffee table

3"

¤"

¤"

¤" chamfers

Square insideof routed cornerwith a chisel.

NOTCH DETAIL

I

A

ITABLETOP

8Œ"

1"fl"

1"fl"

›"

‰" hole

‡"

›"

8Œ" 7Œ"

fi"

fi"17‡"

‡"

‰" slot fl" long

¸" holes, countersunk

TOP VIEW

SIDE VIEW

G

5‹" Ottoman1"

‹"

‹"

1‹"

CENTER SLATCOFFEE TABLE AND

OTTOMAN(2 needed each)

CLEATS(2 needed)

R=›"

TM

Page 9 of 13

Using a construction procedure likethat of the coffee table, build theottoman shown here. See the PartsView drawing on Page 8 for part C.See the Cushion Parts View on Page

13 for the material layout for thecushion. See the Ottoman Bill ofMaterials below for part sizes.

Written by Marlen Kemmet

Project Design: Charles I. Hedlund

Illustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson

Photography: Scott Little, Hetherington

Graphic Design: Jamie Downing

©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1999

The purchase of these plans doesnot transfer any copyright or otherownership interest in the plans, thedesign, or the finished project to thebuyer. Buyer may neither reproducethe plans for sale nor offer for saleany copies of the finished project.

Part

OttomanBill of Materials

Mat

l.

Qty

.

T W L

Finished Size

A* legs 2‹" 2‹" 12‹" LO 4

B rails ‡" 2‡" 18" O 4

C ctr. slats ›" 3" 5‹" O 2

D side slats ›" 1‹" 5‹" O 4

E* spacers ›" fl" 1‹" O 8

F* spacers ›" fl" 2fi" O 8

G stretchers ‡" 4" 24" O 2

H cleats ‡" ‡" 19" O 2

I slats ›" 1‹" 14fi" O 8

*Cut parts marked with an * oversize. Trim to fin-ished size according to the how-to instructions.

Materials Key: LO–laminated oak; O–oak.

Supplies: 20–#8×1" flathead brass wood screws,6–#8×1‹" flathead wood screws, stain, finish.

TM

Page 10 of 13

‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak

‡ x 5fi x 96" Oak

G

A A A

G

OTTOMAN CUTTING DIAGRAM

B

fi x 3fi x 96" Oak*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Bill of Materials.

I* I* E* F*and

I*I*D*

* C

HH

B

¤"¤"

fi"

fi"

2‡"

‹"

2fi"

2"

TENONDETAIL

¤" chamfers along end of tenon

›" groove fi" deep,centered on bottom edge

fi" tenon2" wide x 2fi" long

2fi"

2fi"

13"

1‹"

2fi"

›" groove fi" deep,centered on top edge

18"

1‹"

3"

5‹"

D

OTTOMANEND FRAME

fl"

›"

F

E

D

C

F

FE

F

B

B

TM

Page 11 of 13

A

2"

fi"

5‹"

2"

fi"

Œ"

Œ"

fi"

Œ"

3fi"

3fi"

2‹" 2‹"

12‹"

¤" chamfer along topand bottom ends of leg

fi x 3fi" mortisecut completelythrough leg

fi x 2" mortisescut completelythrough leg

Legs are laminatedfrom three ‡"-thickpieces.

OTTOMANLEG

(4 needed)

Nylon-backed vinyl

#4 steel zipper

Piping

›" batting(we used Dacron)

Buff edges.

OTTOMAN CUSHION(VIEW FROM BOTTOM)

Cushion-eze Bondtek #5 or what may be available in your area (to keep batting from sticking to vinyl or fabric)

5fi" high-density (we used highresiliently 23 pound (HR23) foam)

‹ x 10 x 16" plywood(cushion held in placewith screws in ottoman)

TM

Page 12 of 13

G

TENONDETAIL

2fi"‹"

‹"

4"

3fi"

fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long

¤" chamfers

¤"

¤"fi"

G

C

B

A

H

A

B

B

#8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screw

¸" shank hole, countersunk

14fi"

7⁄64" pilot holes fi" deep1fl"

¤" chamfers

G

#8 x 1‹" F.H.wood screw

fi" tenon 3fi" wide x 2fi" long

fi" tenon 2" wide x 2fi" long

fi x 3fi" mortise cutcompletely through leg

fi x 2" mortises cutcompletely through leg

D

17fi"

12‹"

F

E

E

F

B

2fi"

2fi"

24"

19"

¤" chamfer

OTTOMANEXPLODED VIEW

13"

D

C

EF

F

H

A

A

›"

1‹"

I

I

#8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screws(to attach cushion in place)

1‹"

I

¸" shank hole,countersunk on bottom

TM

Page 13 of 13

Note: Checking with upholsterersaround the country, we learnedthat the supplies and the thicknesso f ma te r ia l s va ry g rea t l y .We recommend providing ourdrawings and your chair to yourupholsterer, and having them makethe cushion to fit your chair.

FULL-SIZEHALF PATTERN

CUSHIONPARTS VIEW

21"

15"

5fi" high-density foam

Align patternon centerlines.

1fi"

40"

Material for piping(2 needed)

4Å" 5ˇ" 5ˇ"

39fi"

fi" seamallowance

4Å"5ˇ" 5ˇ"

21‹"

Centerlines

CUSHIONPATTERN

20‹"

#4 steel zipper

Centerline fi" seamallowance

16›"

R=1Œ"

END PATTERN(2 needed)

5"

fi" seam allowance

See full-size halfpattern below.

(Flop full-size half pattern for marking adjoining pattern.)

fi‹ ‡

1"

SCALE

To ensure full-sized patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measure full-sized patterns to verify size.