DECEMBER 2015 / JANUARY 2016

HOLIDAYProjects: •Rockery•Gabion wall•Wildlife goodies

for kids to make

Spectacular Summer colour wheel

A Respite from the Hurly-Burly of Life

IN THIS ISSUE

DESIGN / PLANTS / WILDLIFESPECTACULAR SUMMER6 Headlining this month is the Cape-chestnut. Summer Colour Wheel10 Cream and White - Subtle Elegance12 Pink and Purple - Packing a Punch14 Yellow and Orange - Adding Spice16 Shades of Blue - Calm and Cool18 Brown and Green - Fresh and Earthy20 A Respite from the Hurly Burly of Life By Jenny Dean

30 WildflowerSeries:Gladiolusecklonii with words by Kate Grieve

32 Summer Accessories - planting cameos 36 Painted Reed Frogs41 Wild Beauty - Crinum bulbispermumCover image: Calodendrum capense - Cape-chestnut

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DEC /JAN

MAGAZINE PRODUCTION:Editor: Anno TorrContact us: anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za Publisher: The Indigenous Gardener Contributing writers: Anno Torr, Jenny Dean All photos by Anno Torr, unless otherwise stated Other Photo credits: Andrea Abbott, Jenny Dean, Graham Grieve Some image via Wikicommons, acknowledgement given; Graphic Design: Anno Torr Disclaimers and Copyrights: Opinions expressed in this maga-zine do not reflect those of The Indigenous Gardener or any project related to The Indigenous Gardener. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, The Indigenous Gardener cannot be held liable for inadvertent mistakes. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher.

CONTACT US: Editor: 8 anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za( 0726025610Advertising: 8 Veronica: info@theindigenousgardener.co.zaAccounts: 8 Hermes: info@theindigenousgardener.co.za

HOLDIAY PROJECTS

REGULARS 7 Monthly Task Card29 Good Reads47 Reader’s Q&A - NEW

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38 Build a Gabion Wall42 Build a Rockery46 Keep pathways slip-free48 Goodies for Wildlife - for kids

Dear Readers,

Changes are a foot as we grow and evolve our magazine to keep up with technology and good practices within the publishing world, and they all revolve around improving the readership experience while offering extra value content.

Mobile is revolutionising how people consume media with a rapid increase in readers accessing content via the smaller screen; readers worldwide are demanding readable, scrollable text and interactive issues. So in the New Year, The Indigenous Gardener is partnering with a digital content company that will enable us to take the magazine beyond a replica version that simply minimises the PDF to fit the small screen, delivering text that is too small to read. Our partnership will enable us to publish once to all platforms and devices, designed specifically for each device to provide a comfortable reading experience, without adding too much time and labour to our existing workflow. Equally important, we will be able to keep production costs down. Your Indigenous Gardener Digital Magazine will now be available everywhere, on every device, whenever you want it.

Also in the pipeline is the possibility of continuous publishing. Digital magazine editions have largely stuck to the usual monthly print cycle, but publishers are beginning to push out weekly articles to cater for those who prefer their reading material on a continual basis, in bite-size chunks. The full monthly edition will, however, still be available.

This quality reading experience does come with a price tag. While we will publish a few free articles to the website accessed from the site and via a Newsletter, our full magazine edition will become a subscription based publication once again. Included in the subscription is access to our Plant Library, a quick reference guide to the plants featured in the magazine. The library arranges plants according to, among others, plant type, habitat, rainfall region, design style, and garden situations, enabling you to find the right plant to fit your design plan. PLUS, our Indigenous Gardening forum is set up and ready to roll; all that is required are some

enthusiastic gardeners to begin a conversation. I’ll send out the link in the next week.

Regarding content, we bring you a fresh layout, a Reader’s Question and Answer section and, in 2016, new writers. We’re working on producing some instructional videos too. All the above features will be available in our subscription edition.

This is an exciting time for the magazine as we harness the powerful, interactive possibilities of the digital age. Our research suggests these changes will prove extremely popular and will be well worth the small monthly subscription fee that will be finalised early next year. No magazine can exist without its readership base – we so hope you will all join us in this very promising year ahead!

Thank you to readers who have written in with such kind words about our work; they help to energise us. Thanks to all for your continual support.

We wish all gardeners a restful and safe holiday season.

December 2015/ January 2016

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: Please contact us with any article ideas, queries or technological problems with the reading/ downloading of the magazine, feedback and more...anno@theindigenousgardener.co.za

TO ADVERTISEPLEASE CONTACT Veronica at: info@theindigenousgardener.co.za

Anno

QUICK LINKS: Click here for access to our website

www.theindigenousgardener.co.za

FROM THE EDITORS DESK…

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Feed/ Maintain: use organic fertilisers or compost• Feed strong growing groundcovers like Gazania and Aptenia • Feed all flowering plants with an organic fertiliser• Feed containers and hanging baskets• Summer rainfall gardens receiving good rains will need to feed all plants regularly as

heavy and continuous rains can leach out vital nutrients• Renew mulch on all beds - the hottest months are around the corner

Prune/ Trim/ Deadhead: leave some flowers to set seed• Still time to prune Leonotus leonurus (Wild dagga)• Dead head groundcovers and perennials regularly• Cut off dead leaves on Dierama, Watsonia and Crinum if completely yellowed• Trim spring- flowering shrubs• Cut up trees and shrubs as needed to improve air-circulation in this damp heat. Thin

out around perennials and soft shrubs if showing signs of fungal disease and stem rot - Gazanias in particular may suffer this month. Ensure soils drain well

• Dead-head groundcovers and perennials to produce further flowers, but allow some to set seed for food, and to be used as nesting materials

Propagate / Plant / Remove: • Collect seed of Gerbera and Felicia spp.• Plant Nerines for autumn flowers, while Gladioli can still be planted for extended colour• Take semi-hardwood cuttings of Pelargoniums and Hypericum spp.• Collect the plump seed of Crinum species, scrape off the outer coating and plant im-

mediately but only partially bury them.

Leucospermum cordifoliumIndigofera jucundaRotheca myricoidesEucomis autumnalis Helichrysum cymosum Plectranthus zuluensisStrelitzia reginae (3)

Aptenia cordifoliaDelosperma herbeumArum liliesAgapanthus species Tinnea barbataPavetta lanceolataBulbine frutescens (4)

Gazania krebsianaChlorophytum saundersiaeAlbucca nelsonii (2)Syncolostemon transvaalensisPavetta lanceolataTurrea obtusifoliaBergeranthus scapiger (1)

WHAT’S INFLOWER

Pests and Diseases: our website has earth-friendly remedies to try• The Amaryllis lilyborer is active on Clivia, Crinum, Haemanthus and Agapanthus spp. • Look for plants suffering from fungal diseases and rotting leaves and stems: cut

away some undergrowth and thin out the plants to improve air circulation.• Look for outbreaks of red spider mite, whitefly and rust

DECEMBER 2015 Summer begins

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Headlining this December Calodendrum capenseCape-chestnut

Lavish displays and an almost unrivalled beauty make the Cape-chestnut a favorite garden tree around the country; one gardener I know calls it the Queen of trees! In fact, it is

a popular ornamental world-wide. When grown as a garden tree, the average height is 7 to 8 m, with a straight trunk and broad, rounded canopy. In forest environments trees can top 20 m, but when grown in a hot, dry situation (bushveld, for example), they often develop gnarled trunks and are frequently quite short and squat. Leaves are smooth and aromatic, about 14 x 8 cm, car-ried opposite each other on the stem. Flowers are a mix of light

SUMMERSpectacular

to dark pink or mauve, growing in terminal sprays (at the tips of branches) that in mid-season cover the entire crown. A close-up view of the flowers shows an attractive purple/ maroon throat, and 5 staminodes (sterile stamens) resembling unformed petals covered with purplish maroon spots or glands. Flowering takes place anytime from July to March and usually begins at around 7 to 8 years.

Fruit is a round, warty-looking capsule that hangs from branches from January to May. Initially a bright green, they mature to a dark brown and harden as they dry. As summer ends, the capsules split open into five sections, releasing about 10 seeds. Seeds are believed to possess magical properties by the Xhosa people. But-terflies and other insects feed on the nectar and monkeys and birds eat the seeds. This member of the Citrus family is a host plant to

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Seasonal interest

© Stan Shebs via Wiki Commons

SPRING AUTUMN

several butterfly species including the Swallowtail species. Leaves carry oil glands, one of the diagnostic features of the Rutaceae (Buchu and Citrus) family, to which it belongs, giving the leaves a strong scent when crushed. Bark is smooth and grey, with white streaks appearing in older trees. Wood is light in colour with a smooth finish and is used to make furniture. The

neat, rounded canopy and non-aggressive roots make the Cape-chestnut an attractive shade and street tree. Growing conditions: full sun to light shade, fertile soils, moder-ate rainfall. Protect young trees from frost, but, once established, mature trees are able to withstand a moderate frost. Growers in bit-terly cold regions suggest flowering is reduced where temperatures are very low. In high rainfall areas, growth is rapid.

Seasonal interest

© JMK via Wiki Commons

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AUTUMN SUMMER

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Subtle elegance

Cream & White1

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1 Pavetta lanceolata Weeping Bride’s Bush. 2 m shrub for sun or semi-shade. Beautiful sprays of white flowers attract birds and insects. Frost tender.2 Clematis brachiata: Traveller’s Joy. This stunning decidu-ous climber can grow up to 5 m and needs a trellis, tree or fence as support. Flowers are sweetly scented. Sun or semi-shade. Moderate frost. Prune back in late winter. Drought and frost hardy.3 Helichrysum petiolare: Helichrysum petiolare: Silver Bush Everlasting. A soft shrub, 1 x 1m. Vigorous grower. Tiny creamy-white flowers cover the lovely silver-grey foliage. Plant in full sun and prune through the year to keep under control. Sends out long stems that root quickly. Drought hardy but frost tender. Can get woody and need replacing after 2 years. 4Dietesflavida: Natal Wild Iris. Pale yellow flowers hang off drooping stems above strap-shaped, dark green leaves. An attrac-tive 70 cm Iris for light shade to full sun. Drought and frost hardy.5 Barleria albostelata: : Grey Bush Barleria. An attractive 2 m shrub with large, furry, pale grey leaves and snow-white flowers. Plant in sun, partial to light shade in well-drained soils. Deciduous to semi-deciduous in cold areas. Mildly frost hardy. 6 Eucomis autumnalis: Pineapple Lily. A deciduous bulb with long wide, strappy leaves and tall, pale creamy-yellow flower spikes. Grassland plant. Allow leaves to die before pruning. Frost hardy.

Subtle elegance

Cream & White 32

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Packing a punch

Pink & Purple

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1 Dais cotinifolia: Pompon Tree. A small to medium sized tree (6 m) with beautiful pink pompon flowers. Deciduous. Plant in full sun. Fast growing, reasonably drought hardy and frost hardy.2 Lampranthus sp.: Purple Vygie. This vygie species has large purple flowers and a long flowering season. Plant is well-drained soils in full sun. A spreading groundcover that grows to 30 cm. 3 Dichrostachys cinerea: Sickle Bush. A spiny shrub or small tree with multiple stems, Acacia-like leaves and beautiful yellow and pink flowers. Drought hardy, full sun, moderate frost.

4 Thorncroftia succulenta: Pink Puff. A small semi-succu-lent shrub growing to 1 m high. Large pink flowers look beautiful against the soft grey leaves. Good choice for shallow soils and rock crevices. Drought and frost hardy.5 Grewia occidentalis: Cross-berry. A fast growing small tree or large shrub (3 m) for sunny areas. Large pink flowers and unusual fruits attract a variety of birds and insects. It can be quite untidy if it receives too much shade. Drought and frost hardy.

6 Geranium incanum: Lace-Leaf Geranium. A beautiful spreading groundcover for sun with grey-green lacy leaves and mauve/ magenta flowers. Grows to 40 cm in full sun or semi-shade, in well-drained soils. Suitable for hanging over walls. Requires moderate rains and is partially frost hardy.

Packing a punch

Pink & Purple

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Adding Spice

Yellow & Orange

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Adding Spice

1 Protea caffra: Common Sugarbush. A large shrub or small tree 5 – 7 m high with a gnarled, multi-stemmed trunk. Bark al-most black leaves a silver-green, large flower heads. Plant in full sun. Requires moderate water and is frost hardy. Attracts birds and insects. Widespread throughout the summer rainfall region.2 Hibiscus calyphyllus: Yellow Wild Hibiscus. A medium 2 - 3 m tall multi-stemmed shrub with a rather lax growth habit. Gorgeous large yellow flowers have a dark maroon centre. Moderately drought and frost tolerant. Prune back after flowering. Attracts insects and birds. Full sun to light/ partial shade. 3Kniphofiauvaria: Torch Lily. It forms large clumps with flowers up to 1.5 m high. Orange-red flowers attract sunbirds. Plant in dry to damp soils. Plant in full sun. 4 Bauhinia galpinii: Pride-of-De-Kaap. This scrambling shrub needs space to spread to its 3 m spread though it takes well to pruning. Brick orange flowers attract sunbirds. Drought hardy and moderately frost hardy. Attracts butterflies.5 Erythrina humeana: Dwarf Coral Tree. A small decidu-ous tree of 2 – 2.5 m, with bright red flowers. Good for small gardens. Nectar rich flowers attract sunbirds, butterflies and other insects. Easy to grow. Drought hardy and moderate frost condi-tions.6 Hypoxis hemerocallidea: Star-flower. Deciduous 40 cm bulb with lovely bright yellow, star-shaped flowers, often tucked among the long strappy leaves. Plantin full sun. Grassland plant. Drought tolerant and frost-resistant.

Yellow & Orange

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Calm and cool

Shades of Blue1

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Calm and cool

1 Nymphaea nouchali: Blue Water Lily. Flowers stand on stalks above large floating leaves and close in the afternoon. One plant can spread over a 1 m area. Needs a well- oxygenated pond in full sun. Bees in constant attendance. 2 Plumbago auriculata: Blue Plumbago. A scrambling shrub, 3 x 3 m in size. Does best in full sun. Flowers attract but-terflies. A prolific flowerer. There is also a white form. Good for an informal hedge and will scramble up into trees. Takes pruning. Frost tender but will grow back if damaged. Drought hardy.3 Aristea ecklonii: Blue Stars. A groundcover with dark green sword-shaped leaves and spikes of beautiful blue flowers that open in the sun. Flowers form along thin stalks. Grows in 30 - 50 cm high clumps and self-seeds in favourable conditions. Enjoys moist conditions and enjoys humus rich soils. Attracts butterflies and beetles. Frost hardy.4 Agapanthus praecox: Large Agapanthus. A well-known perennial growing to 90 cm, with bright green strappy leaves and large blue or white flower heads. Plant in sun in well-drained soil. Good for areas with poor soils. Drought hardy but enjoys summer rains. Will take a light frost.5 Felicia amelloides: Kingfisher Daisy. Usually a low-growing 60 cm groundcover for sun or partial shade. Frost and drought hardy. Plant in a light, well-drained soil. Trim lightly through the year. Will take a moderate frost.

Shades of Blue2 3

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Fresh and earthy

Brown & Green1

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Fresh and earthy

1 Cyperus solidus: Saw Sedge. Previously Marisicus solidus. Form large .5 m high clumps in damp soils, in streams and vleis. Mid-brown flowering seed-heads from spring to sum-mer. Evergreen. Clumps may need splitting after a few years. Full sun to partial shade.2 Melinis nerviglumis: Bristle-leaved Red Top. A lovely grass with purple-red inflorescence. It grows 1 m tall and is an excellent choice for the meadow and grassland garden. Cut back at the end of winter. Frost hardy. Attracts many birds.

3 Setaria sphacelata: Golden Bristle Grass. Plant in sun, where the long fluffy inflorescence gleam a yellow- gold. Tall (2 m) and becomes untidy. Cut back at the end of winter.

4 Juncus effusus: Common Rush. An attractive rush for damp to wet areas though many gardeners plant them in aver-age garden soils, usually with aloes. Forms clumps of 1 m high. Stiff leaves and attractive brown/ cream seed heads. Frost hardy. 5 Themeda triandra: Red Grass/ Rooi Grass. A small to medium, tufted grass, 60 cm high, with purple-red leaf blades as they age. Unusual seed heads. Widespread throughout SA. Prefers soils high in clay and organic matter, though it will grow in any type of soil. Cut back in winter to a third of its size and remove dried leaves.

Brown & Green2 3

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A Respite from the hurly - burly of Life

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A Respite from the hurly - burly of Life

By Jenny Dean

This garden has been a work in progress for the past 20 years. Our task was to convert large areas of lawn and exotic trees into an oasis for people and urban wildlife. What a joy it has been.

The overall feel of the garden is one of peace and tranquillity. This is particularly apt as it is now a health and wellness centre. The garden provides some respite from the hurly burly of the outside world. Key to the process was creating a strong backbone to the garden. The “vertebrae” are the indigenous trees. Over time, the sterile exotics were removed. An old Jacaranda gave way to a Paperbark Acacia (Vachellia sieberiana). The arguably pretty purple show of the Jac-aranda has been replaced with the white puff balls of the Paperbark, humming with bees, tiny wasps and other insects. The highly layered corky bark is the refuge of many insects – and birds like woodhoopoes and woodpeckers know this. They are often found clambering about searching out these protein rich snacks. In place of an old London Plane tree there now stands a Pigeonwood (Trema orientalis) – the most perfect tree if you want to attract birds almost instantly. Giant Hibiscus shrubs were changed for Grewia occidentalis – a sprawling shrub with lilac flowers and yellow fruit in the shape of a cross (hence the common name of Cross berry). Host to 19 moths and 2 butterflies, Grewia is a real worker in a garden. Privets lining the driveway were replaced with Forest Bushwil-low (Combretum kraussii). A dry spring brings about a stunning show of white leaves. Burchellia bubalina, the Wild pomegranate produces orange, red tubular blooms at the same time – a stunning sight. Creeping foxglove (Asystasia gangetica) forms the carpet of this mini woodland. Asystasia is the larval host plant to a number of butterfly species and grows in sun or semi shade – a useful attribute indeed but it can become unruly and overgrow other plants so it needs careful watching. Finally, there are no exotics left – every tree in the garden has earned

its place here, having a use for wildlife.

The task of knitting it all together can be a tricky one. There are hu-mans to please and wildlife to attract, feed and nurture. How to merge the two? My solution is to plant with diversity in mind – as much va-riety as possible without looking “spotty”. There are no large swathes of one species – for example hundreds of Agapanthus and the like. Instead, we have intermingling groups of plants, repeated plantings and swirled them into each other. Drifts of Dierama waft above dainty Sutera. White Gerbera front clumps of Coddia rudis (Small Bone ap-ple) and a Xylotheca (African Dog Rose). This last idea I have used many times, copied from a beloved piece of grassland. Pur-ple Osteospermum jucundum hug Pincushion proteas. Butterfly friendly Scabiosa rub shoulders with sky blue Felicia ameloides, the Kingfisher Daisy. Insects are to be found in this cornucopia all year round. Having a wildlife friendly garden depends on a few factors – using plants which attract lots of insects and of course absolutely no insecticides. Even sunbirds main diet consists of insects, the nectar rich flowers they love so much are merely high energy sugary snacks. For a garden to be appealing to people I like to feel that the arms of the garden hug me, I want to feel peaceful and calm in a garden. Colours, texture, a pleasing harmony of greens are all important. So too is a sense of mystery – and this is where garden paths come in. The garden you see here is full of meandering pathways both invit-ing and mysterious, one leading to a mini woodland, another to the

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The task of knitting it all together can be a tricky one. There are humans to please and wildlife to attract, feed and nurture.

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organic vegetable and herb garden. The paths are laid with bark chips and in some places with hay which is soft underfoot. Both materials break down over time, adding to the richness of the soil. My favourite path brings the visitor to a circle with loungers – a place to lie and rest surrounded by the peace of Nature. Xylotheca (African Dog Rose) form the main structure of the circle. Pelargo-nium capitatum with pale pink flowers and scented leaves mixes with grey Helichrysum petiolare, giving contrast and providing the ideal hiding place for small creatures. Grasses play an important role here - the soft fronds of Aristida junciformis and red seed laden heads of Melinis nerviglumis are interplanted with bright Oste-ospermum. Chlorophytum saundersiae (Anthericum saunder-siae) – so beloved of bees and little Bronze backed mannikins are massed beneath the shade of Commiphora harveyi, Heteropyxis natalensis, Bersama lucens, Baphia racemosa. Once again there is no mono planting – the Chlorophytum is interspersed with Bulbine natalensis, Scadoxus puniceus and Clivia miniata. The orange flowers of Crocosmia aurea (Falling stars) thread their way through the seed laden grasses in autumn. Like all gardens, there is a mix of sun and shade and it is impor-tant to work with these conditions. Succulents play their part in this garden too – beds edging the hot brick paving of the pool are ideal for Aloe vanbalenii and Aloe chabaudii. Succulent groundcov-ers like Lampranthus aureus and some delospermas thrive here although they can also gallop over their neighbours if not controlled. Another idea would be to use Kleinia fulgens and Kalanchoe sexangularis, even Crassula capitella to grow between the above aloes. They are not rampant and provide stunning leaf colour quite apart from gorgeous flowers. For an interesting twist I used some Aloe rupestris emerging from a bed of Lavender “Margaret Roberts” - the handsome single stemmed aloes are a wonderful contrast to

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the soft, airy foliage and flowers of the lavender. Bees love this combination too. Because the wellness centre is visited by overseas tourists, we wanted to make the herb and veg garden a little different. Us-ing organic planting principles I like to use fragrant and strong smelling plants which invite predatory insects and also throw pest insects off track. Artemisia afra or Wormwood has fine feathery grey foliage and forms a lovely low hedge. It has many medicinal uses and is widely used. We planted Portulacaria afra (Spekboom) – the leaves can be eaten for energy. Hypoxis hemerocallidea with starry yellow flowers is a popular medicinal plant – used as an immune booster and to treat headaches and dizziness. Polygala virgata, or Purple broom, is a legume and fixes nitrogen in the soil – a useful and pretty addition to any veg-etable garden. Aloe aristata is planted onto roofs in traditional homes. My staff tells me that if a Hamerkop lands on the roof.... these dear little aloes will prevent the roof catching fire......

The garden is richly layered with a huge diversity of shrubs, trees and groundcovers all managed holistically with plenty of compost and mulch added regularly. No poisons ever enter this sanctuary. The results are clear – a peaceful oasis humming with life, loved by people and creatures.

Xylotheca kraussiana Scadoxus puniceus Flaky bark of Vachellia seberiana

Scabiosa columbariaMelinis nerviglumis

Baphia racemosaBurchelia bubalina

Pelargonium capitatumLampranthus aureus

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Sunday 31 January

2016

ADVANCE BOOKINGS ONLY DUE TO LIMITED TRANSPORT!

SANI PASS (and Lesotho!) WILD FLOWER WALK Sunday 31 January 2016

LAST CHANCE? The upgrading of Sani Pass has finally been approved, despite our fight against the idea of a hard surface, and work is likely to start soon. This may be your last opportunity to walk to Pass before road works take over!

Add a short walk through the botanical wonderland of the Lesotho plateau to your exciting day on the Sani Pass!

Cost: R400 per person includes: Transport up Sani Pass; 90 minutes walking around Sani Top exploring different flowers in a different botanical niche accompanying botanical experts; Transport back from SA border post to Giant’s Cup Café from 3pm onwards (not earlier); GOOD VALUE! NOTE that a day tour with a tour operator in Underberg now costs R720pp! YOU NEED TO BRING: PASSPORT essential! You will be exiting SA at an official border and crossing into Lesotho. Also: hiking boots; lunch; lots of water to drink; hiking stick; hat; warm clothing; raingear. Flower books/binoculars/cameras optional

Meet 06h30 sharp at the Giant’s Cup Cafe, 10.5km down the (tarred) SANI PASS ROAD on the left hand side. Sales (before and/or after the walk): Hats; bottled water; snacks; Elsa Pooley wild flower field guide books; Sani Pass flowers, mammals, birds and reptiles posters; WESSA publications; local books and maps; indigenous plant species; Beth Fey cards; work by local artists BOOKINGS: for the walk – contact Sani Lodge Backpackers 033 7020330 / 0839873071 OR email info@sanilodge.co.za Accommodation: for the night before is also available at Sani Lodge Backpackers, on the same property as the Giant’s Cup Café (www.sanilodge.co.za)

We create indigenous wildlife-friendly gardens that are peaceful, waterwise sanctuaries filled with colour.

• Residential gardens big and small • Housing developments/ Office parks• Structured to suit needs and budget• Hourly consultations

PLANT NURSERYLANDSCAPINGContact: Jenny Dean | jenny@jennydeanwildflowers.co.za | 082 4694686

CONSULTATIONS

| www.jennydeanwildflowers.co.za |

Jenny Dean Wildflowers

OUR AIM

The Flora & Fauna Publications Trust was established to raise sponsorship for the publication of popular, authoritative and

affordable books on the indigenous plants of the Eastern Region of South Africa, with the object of stimulating greater awareness of our

rich and unique Flora and Fauna and the undeniably integral relationship of one to the other.

To view and/or purchase the most informative Field Guides and nature books, visit our website.

www.floratrust.co.za

To help you keep South Africa as pure as nature intended

This is the first title in a series of books. It is a celebration and guide to the history, heritage and future of our local indigenous forests.

‘For a sustainable urban future to be possible, a new botanical discipline is needed to deepen our understanding of the relation between People and Plants. This discipline will link environmental management concerns with those of human welfare and wellbe-ing in a specifically urban context to achieve both ecological restoration and social redress. The Durban Botanic Gardens Trust has published The Durban Forest as an early effort to establish a manifesto for this much-needed new discipline, and provides both historical and florwar-looking perspectives on the changing rela-tions between natural areas and urban dwellers. These relations urgently await our exploration if we are to face the challenges of accelerating urbanism and environmental change that are now upon us.

The Durban Forest will appear to all those interested in people and the environment, culture and community, our past and our future. Most of all, it will speak to the Durban of tomorrow and suggest a new kind of Botany that will help to build a future for all Durban’s residents that is environmentally, socially and economi-cally more just and more secure.’

The Durban ForestDurban Botanic Gardens Trust

GOOD READS

Available at the Durban Botanic Gardens Information Office

Contact: Kerry PhillipsEmail: marketing@dbgt.org.za Phone: +27 (031) 3099240Address: 9 A John Zikhali Road, Berea, Durban

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Gladiolus eckloniiSheathed Gladiolus

Wildflower Series

The grasslands of the Pondoland region provide a mouth-watering display of flowering plants year round, document-ed by Graham and Kate Grieve in the Pondoland CREW

Blog. This month’s Wildflower, Gladiolus ecklonii, begins its show in December. Kate writes: Gladiolus ecklonii is such a stunning plant, even in the bud phase because it is so neatly and compactly arranged (which may have contributed to its common name, Sheathed Gladiolus). It is named in honour of C.F.Ecklon (1795-1868),an apothecary, traveller and prolific plant collector in Southern Africa in the early nineteenth century. It was first collected in the Ama-tola Mountains near Katbery in 1830 when Ecklon travelled to the eastern part of the Cape Colony. He sent seeds to several botanical gardens in Europe, including the Hamburg Botanic Garden where the plants were raised and flowered. The director of the garden at the time, J.G.Lehmann, published a brief description of the species in the seed catalogue in 1835, nameing it after Ecklon. The plants

can be up to about 80 cm tall and the colour of the speckles varies from pink to purplish brown. It grows in the summer rainfall area of SA, mostly in the mountainous regions and prefers damp grass-land, flowering from December to March/April. The flowers close at night and open when warmed up by the sun in the morning. The shape of the flower is adapted for pollination by long-tongued bees that visit the flowers for their nectar. The corms are eaten raw and cooked. It is used traditionally to treat rheumatic pain.

Kate and Graham Grieve are members of the Pondoland CREW blog: www.pondolandcrew.blogspot.co.za, a blog site covering wildflowers of the Pondoland region, an area of high endemism, lying roughly between Port Shepstone in the north to Port St. Johns in the south and extending from the coast to about 50 km inland. With weekly updates and monthly photographs of species in flower it is an intriguing read for lovers of South Africa’s wildflower herit-age. Images by Graham Grieve

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Aeollanthus parvifolius

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Plectranthus ernstii & Aeollanthus parvifolius

Combination or companion plant suggestions often focus on combining different textures, form and flower

colour, but this grouping offers similarities that charm. Plectranthus ernstii is a delightful succulent Plectranthus growing up to 25 cm high. Favoured situations are on rock faces in river gorges, often in partial shade, where rainfall averages between 80 – 150 mm a year summer, and frost is light or absent. According to Ernst van Jaarsveld, in The Southern African Plectranthus and the art of turning shade to glade, Aeollanthus parvifolius is a natural companion of this Plectranthus species. Stems are a pale grey, thick and swollen in various contortions as the plant ages; light blue to purple flowers form slim spikes above the mint green succulent leaves from October to May. Give a light prune through the year to maintain a compact shape if desired. Aeollanthus parvifolius has a rather sprawling habit that can be kept in check by pruning back after its autumn flush of flowers. White to light pink flowers are arranged on stalks above the dull green leaves. Place this shrublet behind the Plectranthus where its 80 cm height will frame the attractive blue Spur flowers. Both species are members of the Lamiaceae (Sage) family, with irregualar 2-lipped flowers, 5 petals and stamens of unequal length, attached to the corolla; other easily recognisable members are Thorncroftia, Salvia, and Syncolostemon. Use this com-bination tucked around rocks and on well-drained slopes in either full sun or partial shade. Plants are pollinated by insects.

Aloe marlothii & Eragrostis capensis

Eragrostis capensis grows naturally in damp areas but seems to do just as well in typical garden soils

if grown in regions with moderate rainfall. Widespread through much of the summer rainfall biomes, and the coastal Western and Eastern Cape, it forms small, dense tufts. Leaves are narrow, up to 70 mm long, and often redish-purple at the base. One of the first grasses to flower after a winter burn, or as the spring rains fall, clumps soon send up tall flowering stalk (up to 1.2 m high) with beautiful biscuit coloured seedheads from September to May. Flowering stems often droop under the weight of the inflorescence. The Heart-seed Love Grass has become a fa-vorite subject of meadow and grassland displays. I love the juxtaposition against the low-growing leaves of a young Aloe marlothii; solid, thick, spikey, motionless, alongside slim, drooping, crisp, gentle movement. The Aloe grows relatively slowly so this embrace of seed heads and spiny leaves should last a while. Eragrosis must be cut right back at the end of winter. Eragrostis capensis: Eastern Cape, Free State, Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpumalanga, Northern Cape, North West, Western Cape.Aloe marlothii: Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpu-malanga, North West.

Summer Accessories1

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Oplismenus hirtellus & Freesia laxa

A small patch of lightly dappled shade is a perfect set-ting for this prettiest – and unusual - combination.

The Basket Grass, Oplismenus hirtellus, is in full flower as summer begins, forming a froth of leaf and seed. The shade grass creeps quickly to cover the ground and in areas of moderate to good rainfall, forms a lush understo-rey groundcover. Full height is no more than 30 cm and does best in dappled, light, to partial shade, but day-long sun tends to burn and dry out the leaves and roots. Tiny flowers and seed heads form on long bare stems above the leaves, loved by a variety of seed eating birds. Drift Free-sia laxa bulbs through a grass patch and in spring, bright pointed leaves will push through the soft mounds, followed by glowing pink/red star-like flowers from spring through summer. A quite enchanting woodland mix. Freesia laxa grows to 30 cm and flowers from August to January. Small, hard, bright red seeds self-sow easily, a quick way to thread these delightful flowers in a naturl way through your shade garden. This deciduous bulb is frost hardy and will cope with a moderate drought. Plants go dormant after flowering and, in a hot, dry summer, will even die back completely. Oplismenus hirtellus: Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Lim-popo, Mpumalanga, North West, Western CapeFreesia laxa: Eastern Cape, Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpumalanga. Albany Thicket, Forest, Indian Ocean Coastal Belt

Pavetta lanceolata & Ocimum labiatum

The Pink Shell Bush, Ocimum labiatum, occurs on rocky hillsides with a scattered distribution through

KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland, into the Northern Provinces of South Africa and further into Zimbabwe. This attractive, neatly shaped shrub is moderately frost hardy and very drought hardy once established. Pink to pale pink flowers show up well against bright green, fragrant leaves. It flow-ers well in full sun and light shade to semi-shade. Prune back by a third at the end of winter to prevent excessive woodiness. Reaching 1.5 – 1.8 m high, the bright colours of leaf and flower are beautifully highlighted against the dark, glossy green leaves and snow white flowers of the False Bride’s Bush, Pavetta lanceolata. Around Christ-mas time, leaves are barely visible behind the showy white clusters. If given enough space, the Pavetta remains bushy, bringing flowering stems near those of the Shell bush, forming a pleasing combination of pastels. Care and maintenance: this grouping thrives with little input from the gardener. Keep the soil well mulched for reliable, abundant flowering. The Pavetta can be trimmed to keep more compact, and the Shell Bush must be pruned at the end of winter. Pavetta lanceolata: Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Lim-popo, Mpumalanga.Ocimum labiatus: KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpuma-langa, North West.

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PAINTED REED FROGSAquatic masterpieces

Painted Reed Frogs have joined the thriving pond community in my garden. Their high-pitched whistles pierce the night air, easily heard above the deep reverberating snore of the

guttural toad, and the single intermittent chunk of a Forest Tree Frog. I know the Natal Tree Frog and Bush Squeakers are here, as are long-time residents, the Clicking Stream Frogs, but my human ears cannot hear them above this din! I love it. After first hearing their calls I expected that spotting these small creatures would be difficult so was delighted to come across them with very little effort on my part, their tiny posteriors tucked into the centre of the leaves of Cyperus prolifer, not even an arm’s length from the camera. With each visit a new colour pattern could be seen; there is a dominant pattern as the frog book suggests, but each pattern is one-of-a-kind. While this small group basked in the sun in the reeds above the water, others could be heard at dusk calling from surrounding trees and shrubs, the Carissa macrocar-pa, in particular, where it grows around the swimming pool. Many return as evening falls to the same emergent reeds and sedges to begin their mating calls while others will call from trees, shrubs and long grasses close by. This garden is the perfect habitat; pond

with dense aquatic foliage, long grass and perennials surround the water body, attracting small insects that make up their main food source, and the rest of the garden supports a density of trees and shrubs. It is also rather wild, with garden maintenance work.that could disrupt their activities kept to a minimum. Research indicates they move quickly into newly created ponds or waterbod-ies, a great encouragement to gardeners keen to entice these little beauties into their gardens. Size: 25 - 35 mm in length. The snout is curved, and the toes end in pads that enable them to climb up the stems of reeds, grasses, and woody plants. They have excellent eyesight, attuned to surrounding movement. Their call is impressively loud and con-sists of a short whistle, a fraction of a second long; the large vocal sac beneath the mouth helps to amplify the call sound. Colour patterns: the various colour patterns are accepted as subspecies of Hyperolius marmoratus, showing off a range of spots, stripes and blotches, as well as a variety of colour. The plain brown form is common across the entire range, with various patterns being dominant in particular areas. Males and females are alike.

Dense stands of Cyperus prolifer are favoured as a call-ing - and basking - perches.

Above right: In the bright midday sun, the colours turned pale (looking remarkably like shades of silver and gold), perhaps to reflect the sun, a known characteristic of the Tree Frogs.

Natural habitats: temporary ponds and seepages to permanent bodies of water such as dams, marshes, reed beds, sluggish riv-ers and streams in grassland and savanna biomes. They are also common in gardens and cultivated land. Distribution regions: Across much of sub-Saharan Africa, with considerable geographical variations. Life cycles: Males usually call after rains throughout the year though the primary breeding season is October to February. Typi-cally, males will call for a few consecutive nights before giving it a rest, returning after 10 days or so. Males mate with a single female each night. Eggs are laid in water, between 150 and 650 in flat-tened clumps on the surface of submerged leaves, stalks or stones or amongst the roots of water plants. Tadpoles hatch within 5 days and within 6-8 weeks emerge as adults. During the dry season, Painted Reed Frogs are often found far from their breeding sites, in thick vegetation, under old logs and stones, as well as inside homes. Tadpoles: for those needing to identify one tadpole from another in their pond, the Hyperolius tadpole is brown with speckled fins, and tails that end in a sharp point tipped with black. They live at the bottom of a pond, so shallow water is preferred when ready to lay eggs. (Information from Minter et al., 20014, ©SI/MAB Biodi-versity Program). Food: As they eat a variety of small insects and arthropods, these frogs help to control populations of garden pests.

Predators: bats, snakes, predatory birds such as Kingfishers, tree frogs and red-legged Kassinas (Minter et al., 20014, SI/MAB Biodiversity Program). The Painted Reed Frogs are incredibly agile, escaping danger by leaping long distances. Specialists suggest the red skin on the inside of thighs and the sides of the belly, visible only when jumping, acts as a startle mechanism that will give the animal a few extra seconds to escape a predator. Main threats: although there are abundant populations of this species, local populations may be threatened by habitat loss and modification, the use of pesticide and herbicide, the draining of wetlands, and afforestation.

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Made of galvanised wire and filled with large stones, gabions bring an industrial look that fits best in a modern or minimalist design. But they are wonder-

fully functional and, for the creative gardener, easily adapted to slot into all garden themes.

A wooden pole wall, made in a hurry to hold up a short, rather steep bank, was now in need of an overhaul. The two gabions baskets, purchase for another project, lay unused in the driveway for a couple of months; at 1 m x 1 m x .5 m each, they were a perfect fit to replace the wooden poles. Gabions are purchased with some assembly required – not difficult to do, but sturdy gloves and long sleeves are recommended! Other materials required are pliers, scissors, extra wire or cable-ties, shade cloth or weed guard fabric, bamboo or grass screen, and fill material – we used granite and recycled tins. It is always best to reuse materials already on site rather than buying in, and we made use of a pile of decomposed granite stored in the back garden. Old shade cloth lines each basket as a barrier between the sand-like size granite and the large holes of the wire basket. Layer 1: an old brush-like screen cut to the required height and length fits between the shade cloth and wire frame. Both layers are attached to the gabion with pieces of wire. Cable ties can also be used. To save on the volume of stone needed as infill, and to keep it as light as possible, packets of recycled tins, des-tined for the recycling depot fill the central space. The gravel takes up the rest of space, with a 10 cm space left at the top. Stones of varying sizes always come with the gravel, and a puzzle of stones from the top layer, creating open spaces for lizards and milipedes and other creatures. The wooden wall was already home to many, and they should move back once the new wall is complete. Filling the entire volume of the two gabions with the gravel would be excessively heavy and wasteful. This sand-like gravel, once wet, settles heavily, one reason why it is such an effective pathway material. So the central space is taken up with bags of old tins destined for the recycling depot; two bags in each basket. A narrow depth of gravel covers the packets and is firmed down to hold them secure. Small stones placed on top. This arrangement should last for a number of years. The baskets are heavy when filled so make sure each one sits correctly, and on a secure, flat surface before filling. Plants: Most of the planting is done in the bed above the gabion, with only a few planted into the holes at the top, or planted to creep over the wire and stone surface. Rocks absorb and give off heat so choose sun loving, drought-hardy species. I’ve chosen the creeping dwarf Portulacaria afra, Gasteria, Lampranthus and a dwarf Aloe species are tucked into the holes on the top surface, and a purple flower-ing Lampranthus species and the grey-leaved Oscularia deltoides are planted on the bank behind, to spread over the gabion as they grow.

HOLIDAYPROJECT Build a Gabion Wall

Keep soil in place with a single - tier gabion and stone wall

The final result? Secure, attractive- What’s not to love?

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Before & AFter

Oscularia deltoides

Lampranthus species

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The exquisite Orange River Lily, or Vaal River Lily, Crinum bulbispermum, is a favourite, easy-to-grow South African bulb used as much

in a mixed herbaceous bed as it is to pretty-up a water feature - if you can circumvent the mole rats and lily borer! I have a few growing in the garden, so I know its beauty and fragrance well, but nothing can prepare you for the awe-inspiring splendour of seeing vast fields of wild lilies as far as the eye can see – even if only on camera! We introduced a single beauty to the wider public at the recent Garden Show in Pietermaritzburg, and it opened up a conversation with a visitor from inland. “They grow wild on the farm,” MJC van der Merwe mentioned, “I’ll send you a photo.” Home to this breath-taking display is the Ermelo/ Hendrina district, along the Klein Olifants River. The River Lily’s natural habitat is the boggy soils along streams and in swampy grasslands of the summer rainfall regions where soils are deep. Conditions here are perfect; a seasonally wet vlei and full sunshine. Left undisturbed and with unlimited space to grow, the Orange River Lily flourishes. We will let the photos speak for themselves.

Many thanks to MJC van der Merwe for making these pictures available for viewing.

WILD BEAUTY

Build a Rock GardenHOLIDAYPROJECT

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Othonna carnosa is an excellent choice for drap-ing over a rock face. or spreading between rocks.

Do you have a slope or bank ready to be dressed more creatively than the default retaining wall blocks or mown lawn? An eye-catching cocktail

dress rather than a comfortable pair of jeans; a brightly coloured pashmina to replace a worn monotone wind-breaker? Aside from adding a beautiful feature, this style detail/ element increases the sustainability of the garden too, for it saves on fuel, provides level planting pockets for better water penetration, and provides habitats for small insects and reptiles. All add to the garden’s overall biodiversity. Many gardeners see rockeries as low-maintenance components, but, as with any planted area of the garden, this is only true if construction is good and the correct plant species are chosen.

Practical considerations:

Design: Rockeries work best in full sun and on sloping ground, typically where one would find a natural rock fall.Place rocks so they appear to be part of the ground, rather than dispersed randomly over the surface – in the ground rather than on top of it. Rocks are expensive so we want to display them as much as possible, but burying the odd large specimen almost entirely imitates a natural outcrop, giving your rockery the appearance of permanence and age. This idea works best on a more inclined slope helping to stabilise the steepest section. Build up a tier of rocks beginning at the lowest part of the slope. Back-fill with soil behind each stone, tamping down as you go, to secure it in place and stabilise each level. Don’t position rocks in too regular a line; create mixes where rocks are grouped, and where they are spread thin. Providing a wide base reduces the steepness of the slope; extra soil can be found to fill in the planting lev-els, and makes for a more secure feature.

There are some rules-of-thumb when placing rocks: • Use the same type of rock – don’t mix different colours and materials.• Place them flat rather than on their end.• Partially bury the rocks rather than simply laying them on the surface, both for a natural look and to secure them.• The strata (lines or grain) must lie in the same direc-tion.• Place them tilting slightly backwards so they don’t roll down the slope.• Use a variety of sizes and shapes, and create irregular groups of rocks set to ensure there is no pathway down which the soil can be washed down during a storm. • Drainage is essential; if soils have a high clay con-tent, lighten the load that will sit behind the rock face by removing soil to just over a spade depth and adding in sand, gravel or even building material. Put back the soil and tamp it down before planting.

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TIP: Planting spaces

Make planting spaces between rocks large enough so plants don’t outgrow their allotted space too quickly. Otherwise, match the plant to the size of the

space. Know the final spread of your plants and provide sufficient space to retain individual shape and form; when too many plants intermingle, while an attractive style in the right place, a rockery loses structure and form quickly. Rocks absorb and radiate heat, so use plants that enjoy these conditions closest to the rocks.

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The rockeries in the images on the left create features of diverse beauty on these moderate slopes, providing a focal point and small habitats for insects and lizards.

Image 1: Tucked into a small space off the path, the rockery is built as a feature garden in view of the pool patio. Crassula multicava knits together a variety of aloes, succulents and groundcovers. Species: Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, Aloe vanbalenii, Agapanthus praecox, Strelitzia reginae and S. juncea, Aloe arborescens, Arctotis sp., Aloe chabaudii, and Encephalartos villosus.

Image 2 showcases a similar plant palette, with acid yellow flowers of Kalanchoe longifolia adding height at the top of the bank, and Bulbine natalensis tucked in among the Fairy Crassula.

Choosing plants: The first consideration is the micro-climate of the rockery. Slopes are generally dry as a result of run-off; rocks also absorb and radiate heat, raising the ambient temperature of the immediate surroundings. So if the rockery is north-facing and open to the sky, choose full sun plants with low water needs. Be aware too, of the prevailing winds that will exacerbate the dry conditions. However, rocks also shade the roots of plants grow-ing around them keeping the soil cool and moist compared with more exposed areas, and a little extra moisture is gained as water also runs off the rock surface pooling on the ground below. Depending on how steep the bank is, the new planting pockets you cre-ate can provide reasonably level platforms that aid water retention and percolation. So don’t feel restricted to spiny, desert plants; the article images of a South Coast garden

TIP: Buying rocks

Buy quarry-mined rocks rather than weathered rocks, and only from a

reputable seller, someone who can prove the provenance of their supply. Do not buy from a roadside hawker or any landowner for that matter, who is not in possession of the necessary permits. These rocks are more than likely taken directly out of the environment, destroying vulnerable habi-tats and increasing land degradation.

designed and constructed by Elsa Pooley Landscaping, show a range of succulents, perennials and groundcovers, all thriving in this sun-baked, windswept rockery.

Top: bright red buttons of Kleinia fulgens and the elegant inflorescens of Aloe van-balenii liven up this stunning bank. The grey leaf in the foreground is Gazania rigens. Centre left: Felicia amelloides thrives in a rockery, providing soft mounds of blue flow-ers for months. The peach umbels of Cotyle-don orbiculata are in the foreground. Below: Vygies work well in a rockery, soften-ing the harsh rock edges and reducing the heat and glare of the stone. Opposite page insert bottom right: strata clearly visible on the rock surface.

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Albuca nelsonii

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Keep pathsways slip-free

Relieved that rains are falling in many regions, with it come high humidity levels - and moss and algae-cov-ered paving. Treacherous underfoot as we scuttle from

car to house, or stroll along the garden paths, these conditions are rife where drainage is poor and surfaces are continually damp. Both require moisture for growth and reproduction and are commonly seen, not only on paving surfaces but in moist, sheltered areas around the garden.

How to deal with it: • Cut back any foliage that overhangs or creeps onto the pav-ing. Plants trap moisture and dense foliage close to the edge of the surface creates sheltered areas where air movement is limited. • If drainage is poor and water pools around paving stones, dig out shallow rills at the surface edge and fill with gravel to aid percolation. Raising the pavers up by a few millimetres could also reduce water filming. • Surface growth can be dislodged with a knife, paint scraper, or stiff bristle broom. Use a knife to slice through and remove growth in cracks between bricks and pavers. • Pour a white vinegar solution diluted with water over the surface; leave for a few minutes, then scrub. Rinse pavers thoroughly. • A pressure cleaner will dislodge moss and algae, but be careful where you use it. Where drainage is already a problem, this machine will add high volumes of water that will worsen the condition you are trying to improve. The force from the cleaner can damage plants. • Sweep surfaces frequently to remove leaves and soil that trap moisture will help to prevent growth from taking hold.• Slope paving so water runs off into adjacent flower beds. • Don’t edge paving in areas prone to damp-weather growth as a barrier will prevent water runoff. • Along garden pathways use slip-proof natural materials like bark mulch.

• When constructing new paths make them permeable by using sand or lime between pavers rather than cement, improving drainage. • Paths/ walkways built with wood are also hazardous when damp; staple chicken wire or plastic mesh across the surface to provide some grip. Spreading course sand over garden paths is also an effective anti-slip solution. If your region remains dry, the rains will come, so prepare your walk-ways before both you and the rain, fall!

Readers Q&AAgapanthus Borer:

A voracious caterpillar has taken its toll on Agapanthus species around the country in the past

couple of years. While many gardeners have assumed it is the notorious exotic

lily borer that infects the soft fleshy species (Clivia, Crinum, etc.), studies show it to be the larvae of a moth, Neuranethes spodopterodes, now known in South Africa as the Agapan-thus Borer. Given the short time period since infestation (2009/ 2010) was first noticed, the spread of this alien moth and its larvae has been rapid and horticulturists from around the country are finding large stocks affected. Every part of the plant is targeted; larvae feed on the leaves and rhizome and bore through to the centre of every flower bud. The result is fewer flowers, less seed and eventually, the death of the plant. For plant lovers, balancing the cost of the plant and, therefore, a strong need to save it, versus an environmental consciousness, can be a tough one when faced with the decimation of a large group of flowering Agapanthus! Reports show that all 6 Aga-panthus species and subspecies appear affected. Eggs are laid on the underside of leaves, giving protection from predators and sunlight. Once they hatch, larva bores its way into Agapanthus leaves, moving further down as the food supply is exhausted, eventually into the rhizome itself. The solution: while tests are being carried out to find a potential biological control agent, the best recorded solution to this problem, is frequent spraying of Margaret Roberts Biological Caterpillar Insecticide. The active ingredient, Bacillus thur-ingiensis bacterium, works by producing a protein that reacts with the borer’s gut lining, eventually starving it to death. As efficacy is short-lived, there is no secondary poisoning of other insects and animals. As with the well-known lily borer, while the product may not get rid of the pest entirely, it does give some measure of control, resulting in an improvement in the health and flowering of your Agapanthus. Treat frequently.

HELP ANDADVICE

ANSWERS TO READERS QUERIES

We have had many queries about ‘white dust’ coat-ing the surface of Aloe leaves recently, and this problem seems to be wide-spread. Though it may

not initially look like a tiny insect, the start of a White Scale in-festation begins with the appearance of spots of white dust that gradually increases in size, blocking the sunlight, essential for photosynthesis, from reaching the leaves. These tiny insects, 1-2 mm in size, also suck the sap from leaves of the plant, and if left untreated, the plant eventually deteriorates and dies. Remove them as quickly as possible with soapy water. Brush off new spots as soon as you see them. For White Scale in hard-to-reach places, use a strong jet of water from a hose pipe nozzle to shift them. Repeat treatment until all signs of the insect disappear. At times, the dry but dead insects remain on the leaves, looking as though a new infestation has started. These should be easily removed with a soft brush.

White Scale:

CONTACT US: Email your questions to Anno and Jenny: info@theindigenousgardener.co.za

We regret we cannot answer every question sent to us but will try to help where we can.

Larvae of Neuranethes spodopterodes © Jon Richfield via Wiki Commons

Neuranethes spodopterodes adult © Jon Richfield via Wiki Commons

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Ingredients:• Lard • wild or garden bird seed • sunflower seeds • peanut butter• cornflour • mixed dried fruits and nuts (bought from Food Lovers Market).

Materials:• Plastic yoghurt tub (125 or 150 ml) or any other small container you can pierce a hole in • String.

Method:Rule of thumb with this recipe is 1 volume of wet to 2 volumes of dry ingredients. • Soften the lard, but do not melt into liquid form as it will leak out of the string hole. • Add seeds and dried fruit and nut mix. • Add cornflour and Peanut Butter.• Make a small hole in the container; tie a knot at one end of the string, and thread the other end through the hole. • Spoon the mixture into the container, keeping the string in the centre. Pull the string through until the knot rests against the mix. • Place in the freezer for a half hour, or until cold and hard. • Hang from a tree.

for WildlifeGoodies

Seed Bells

Projects for Kids

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Quick & easy seed sliceThis is a great way to use up old stale bread slices. The slices need to be relatively hard and thoroughly dry – if too fresh it will tear.

• Dry your slices in the oven for about 10 minutes; remove, and leave to cool and harden. • Thread string or thin wire through the top of the bread about 2 cm away from the top of the crust. • Spread with Peanut Butter. • Pour seeds into a bowl just larger than the bread and press both sides into the seed until as much of the Peanut Butter is covered. • Hang from the branch of a tree - fold the wire shown in the image alongside to make it easy to clip on and off the branch.

Watermelon Fruit BowlIt is watermelon season and birds, butterflies and insects love to feast on pieces of fresh fruit.

• Cut off a curved piece of melon to form a shallow bowl shape. • Make a small round hole in each corner, thick enough to thread a thin length of string through, and far enough away from the edges to prevent the skin splitting.• Scoop in small pieces of old fruit. Birds will also feast on the watermelon flesh. • Hang from a tree branch.

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