Cape Town

Student / Cultural Guide 2012

South Africa

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Contents Recap: Logistics on Arriving in Cape Town …………………………..... 3

Post-Apartheid South African Culture ………………………………...... 3

Suggested Books ………………………………....………...…..…. 3

Notes on Language ……………………………………...…..…..... 5

Safety in Cape Town ………………………....……………………....…. 8

Exercise and Sports ………………….………………………………….. 9

LGBTQ Life …………………………………………………………….. 9

Thinking about Cross-Cultural Service ………………………………... 10

Weather in Cape Town ……………………………………………........ 11

Packing List ……………………………………………………..…….... 12

Restaurants in Obs ………………………………………….………….. 13

Neighborhood Map ……………………………………………….…..... 14

Grocery stores, post offices, pharmacies, etc. ……………………..….. 15

Places for Visitors (or you!) to Stay ………………………………..…... 15

Places to Go ……………………………………………………….….….17

Websites to Checkout ……………………………………………….…. 18

A Few Frequently Asked Questions ……………………………….……18

“To Hell with Good Intentions”………………………………………... 20

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Recap from Logistics Orientation – Arriving in Cape Town American students studying in South Africa for a period lasting up to 90 days are exempt from obtaining a visa. A valid passport is all that is required for travel to, and throughout, the country. You are NOT considered a student because you will not be enrolled at UCT (you’re a Stanford student), therefore you do not need a student visa. SO, when you get to customs in South Africa, tell them that HOLIDAY is your “purpose of visit”. Bring photocopies of your passport and credit cards and keep them separate from your actual passport and credit cards. These will be really important in the event that these things were lost. Make sure to copy the backside of your credit card(s) as well -- often there is a bank phone number there that you call if you need to cancel your card… but if you’ve lost the card, then it’s hard to know the phone number without a copy! Call your bank! Make sure they know you’ll be in South Africa so that they won’t cancel your card when withdrawals are suddenly made in Cape Town! Before you leave, make sure the student coordinator has your itinerary. Without it we won’t know when to send someone to pick you up at the airport!

Post Apartheid South African Culture South Africa is an incredibly diverse country ethnically – so there’s no one “South African culture.” Illustrative of that fact are the eleven national languages of the country: English, Afrikaans, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Southern Sotho, Swazi, Tsongo, Tswana, Venda, Xhosa, and Zulu. Many cultural differences in the country today correspond to the racial groups defined by Apartheid (black, white, coloured, Indian/Asian); thus to begin to understand the complexity of culture in the country, one should start by looking at South Africa’s history. Read as much as you can about South Africa before and during your time in Cape Town; your experience will only be made more valuable, the more you study the county, it’s history, politics, and people… Here are a few suggested books (by no means an exhaustive list): Histories and Reference:

A Human Being Died that Night: A South African Story of Forgiveness, Pumla Gobodo-Madikizela: Gobodo-Madikizela, a psychologist who grew up in a black South African township, reflects on her interviews with Eugene de Kock, the commanding officer of state-sanctioned death squads under apartheid.

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A Concise History of South Africa, Robert Ross: a succinct synthesis of Southern African history from the introduction of agriculture about 1 500 years ago up to and including the government of Thabo Mbeki. Stressing economic, social, cultural and environmental matters as well as political history, it shows how South Africa has become a single country. Crossing the Line by William Finnegan: An illuminating, engaging account of the year (1980) the 27-year-old American author spent teaching at a “coloured” high school near Cape Town. I Write What I Like, Steve Biko: a selection of Biko's writings from 1969, when he became the president of the South African Student Organization to 1972, when he was prohibited from publishing. The collection reflects Biko's conviction that black people in South Africa could not be liberated until they united to break their chains of servitude, a key tenet of the Black Consciousness Movement that he helped found. Khayelitsha: uMlungu in a Township, Steven Otter: follows a white South African into a Cape Town township notorious amongst outsiders as the dwelling place of poverty, disease and crime – where he proceeds to set up home.What Steven Otter finds in Khayelitsha – which means “New Home” in Xhosa – is an often humorous display of contradictions, with happiness, compassion and ubuntu thriving side-by-side with the tsotsis, HIV/Aids and poverty. * Long Walk to Freedom: The Autobiography of Nelson Mandela (Required)* My Traitor's Heart by Rian Malan. A fascinating insight into apartheid South Africa by a young Afrikaner struggling with his identity and legacy of racism. The Bang-Bang Club: The Making of the New South Africa by Greg Marinovich and Joao Silva: An honest account of South Africa's transition from apartheid to black majority rule told through the eyes of four young photographers.

Fiction / Historical Fiction (a few among many…)

Coconut Kopano Matlwa: An important rumination on youth in modern-day South Africa, this haunting debut novel tells the story of two extraordinary young women who have grown up black in white suburbs and must now struggle to find their identities. Country of My Skull: Guilt, Sorrow, and the Limits of Forgiveness in the New South Africa Antjie Krog: Krog, a prominent South African poet and journalist, led the South African Broadcasting Corporation team that for two years reported daily on the hearings of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC). Cry, The Beloved Country Alan Paton: Review 'A beautiful novel, rich firm and moving...compelling' New York Times. 'Cry, The Beloved Country...was the great raiser of popular awareness of South Africa...the most influential South African novel ever written' Nadine Gordimer, Observer.

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Disgrace J.M. Coetzee: (winner of the 1999 Booker Prize) Set in post-apartheid Cape Town and on a remote farm in the Eastern Cape, this is a novel about a man and his personal journeys of love, grace, and disgrace in the new South Africa. July's People Nadine Gordimer Kikuyu Etienne van Heerden: This is the story of a boy's life on an Afrikaner farm in the Karoo desert. As a fictional representation, it offers fascinating insight into the struggle of an Afrikaner boy as he grows up during the Apartheid years. Mind Your Colour by V.A. February : is about the creation and maintenance of a cultural stereotype. It deals with the people classified by South African racial legislation as 'coloureds', and with the image forced upon them by South African society, an image which reflects and reinforces the political subordination of the group. Spud John van de Ruit: It’s 1990. Apartheid is crumbling. Nelson Mandela has just been released from prison. And Spud Milton, thirteen-year-old, prepubescent choirboy extraordinaire is about to start his first year at an elite boys-only boarding school in South Africa. Three Letter Plague Jonny Steinberg: Groundbreaking work of reportage about pride and shame, sex and death, and the Aids pandemic in Africa is a masterpiece of social observation.

If you’re interested in reading more, feel free to ask anyone on the Cape Town staff for more recommendations! Some notes on language: The languages primarily spoken in Cape Town and the surrounding regions (where you will be spending the majority of your time) are English, Afrikaans, and Xhosa. Generally in this region, Afrikaans is spoken by white South Africans and by people classified as coloured, while Xhosa tends to be spoken by black South Africans. However, regardless of primary language, people usually speak and understand English to the extent where you won’t have much of a problem. In the townships you may run into more difficulty with the language barrier. There are several words/phrases in each language (including English) that are good to know and that you will probably become very familiar with: English Words and Phrases Boot/Bonnet = Trunk/Hood of the car Costume = bathing suit Flat = Apartment Howsit = Hey, what’s up (common greeting)

Izzit/Isit = Really? Jersey = Sweatshirt Now = Really soon, but not this moment Just now = Sometime in the nearish future

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Now now = Sometime…who knows when Lift = Elevator English Continued… Robot = Traffic Light Sister = Nurse Take Away = Take Out Tomato Sauce = Ketchup Torch = Flashlight Afrikaans words and phrases Bakkie = a small pick-up truck Biltong = Jerky (e.g. beef, ostrich, etc.) Braai = Barbecue Breu = Brother Dankie = Thank you Lekker = Nice Tekkies = Sneakers

Tik = Methamphetamine (a growing problem in many townships) Xhosa words and phrases “Amandla”… “Awethu” = “Power”… “To the people” * Unjani = How are you Molo/Molweni = Hello (to one person or a group, respectively) Ndiphilile/Ndiyaphila = I’m fine/alive Enkosi (kakhulu) = Thank you (very much) Ubuntu = compassion, humanity; ‘I am who I am because of who we are’ Umlungu = White person Uxolo = I’m sorry Yebo = Yeah * A cheer done responsively, frequently done at marches, protests, etc.; has roots in the anti-apartheid movement

Academic Vocabulary It’s also important for you to know a little bit about the vocabulary used to talk about academics here in South Africa:

School: the word used for elementary and middle school, as well as high school to an extent. You, as a Stanford student, are no longer in “school.” If you say “I go to school in California,” South African will be confused that you haven’t yet graduated from high school. Learners: a common term used for students, usually those still in “school.” You can use the term “student” to refer to yourself.

Matric: the matric exam is the national exam that South African high school students must pass in order to graduate from school. Good matric scores are essential for getting into university. Each year, the names of the students who pass matric are published in the newspaper. 1st year – 4th year: In South Africa, the four years in college are NOT called freshman, sophomore, junior and senior. Instead, the are simply referred to as 1st year, 2nd year, 3rd year and 4th year. So you’re unlikely to be understood if you say “I’m a sophmore in HumBio,” instead say: “I’m a second year at Stanford University studying Human Biology.”

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University: Pretty straight forward, this is what you call Stanford or UCT (reminder: Stanford wouldn’t be referred to as a “school” here). Faculties: UCT is divided into seven different “faculties” – The Centre for Higher Education Development, Commerce, Engineering & the Built Environment, Health Sciences, Humanities, Law, and Science. Within those faculties there are different departments (e.g. Languages & Literature or History within Humanities). This is a little different from Stanford, where we just refer to our individual majors.

NATIONAL ANTHEM OF SOUTH AFRICA This is the official version of the national anthem, combining Nkosi sikelel’ iAfrika and Die Stem/The Call of South Africa. Xhosa Nkosi sikelel’ iAfrica. Maluphakanyisw’ uphondo lwayo. Yizwa imithandazo yethu, Nkosi sikelela, thina lusapho lwayo. Sotho Morena boloka setjhaba sa heso, O fedise dintwa le matshwenyeho. O se boloke, o se boloke setjhaba sa heso, Setjhaba sa South Africa, South Africa. Afrikaans Uit die blou van onse hemel Uit die diepte van ons see, Oor ons ewige gebergtes, Waar die kranse antwoord gee, English Sounds the call to come together, And united we shall stand, Let us live and strive for freedom, In South Africa our land.

English Translation: Lord, bless Africa Let her horn/banner be raised Hear our prayers Lord bless us, her family Lord, save our nation Stop the wars and suffering Save it, save it, our nation The nation of South Africa From the blue of our heavens From the depth of our seas Over our eternal mountains Where the cliffs echo back Sounds the call to come together, And united we shall stand, Let us live and strive for freedom, In South Africa our land

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Safety in Cape Town This list of do’s and don’ts is in your logistics packet, but it bears repeating. The BOSP staff in Cape Town will be a great resource to you, and help you learn to navigate safely during your quarter. Cape Town is a large, metropolitan area. Like most big cities, it is important to be aware of your surroundings and be “street smart.” Some general safety tips:

• NEVER walk alone outside of the UCT campus, especially at night. Walk with at least TWO other individuals.

• During research project / service-learning work, utilize local hosts as 'guides' and

travel with them whenever possible. • DO NOT wear flashy jewelry; be aware of where your valuables are and NEVER

leave your things unattended, even on campus. • • DO NOT use your cell phone in crowded areas outside of campus; cell phones are

particularly vulnerable to theft in Cape Town. • It's generally not a good idea to pull out a map as it alerts those around you to the

fact that you are a tourist. If you need to consult a map, duck into a shop to check. • Make use of program-approved taxis and Jammie Shuttle whenever possible.

Mini-taxes and train are ok when traveling together during the day. • If you are taking a tour (i.e. in and around the City Center and/or surrounding

townships) stick closely with your tour group. • Pay attention to those around you; be wary of people approaching you trying to

sell you things. • One-shoulder purses are particularly easy to snatch. If you have a purse that goes

across your body, it is a better idea to wear it. • It’s a good idea to have a computer lock to secure your laptop to your desk. • Backpacks are also vulnerable, especially in crowds. Some students have had

success using key rings or backpack locks to close their bags. Messenger bags that are worn at the side can also be useful

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Exercise and Sports Cape Town is a very active city full of people who participate in a variety of sports. You might get involved through:

• Running. It is safe to run for exercise during the day, though it is always recommended to run at least in pairs if not in a larger group. There is a nice path along the river by the Stanford house which is frequented by local and foreign exercisers, and the run to Rhodes Memorial is a good one if you enjoy hills. If you can get to it, Seapoint’s promenade is great for long seaside runs. However, it is important to stay aware of your surroundings. The river banks and trailsides host many bushes and obstructions that muggers or other people might hide behind to surprise joggers.

• UCT gym and clubs. Stanford students can join myriad UCT teams and clubs.

• Rock climbing and yoga gym near the train tracks in Obs.

• Hiking, swimming, surfing and other outdoor sports . • Soccer. Many local and international students in the area enjoy soccer (still often

called soccer here, not football) and organize low-stakes matches with local teams.

LGBTQ Life Cape Town is often known as a “pink city” and is considered by many to be the most LGBTQ-friendly city in Africa. However, even though SA’s progressive constitution renders homophobic discrimination illegal, it’s important to be aware that many residents don’t share these institutionalized ideals. Phenomena like “corrective rape” of lesbian women and blatant bigotry are still a problem, particularly in township communities. However, you might take advantage of Cape Town’s queer-friendly culture through:

• Greenpoint. This neighborhood in town hosts Beefcakes (a Chip-n-Dales-esque diner), Bubbles Bar (which features daily drag shows), Bronx and Crew (clubs for a night out)

• Gay Flag of South Africa. This campaign raises money to fight discrimination

by selling SA “gay flags”. Learn more at gayflagofsouthafrica.co.za.

• Triangle Project. This NGO is based in the same business complex as the Stanford Centre and offers a library of queer-focused books and films.

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Thinking about Cross-Cultural Service

HOW WE CAN ACT CONSTRUCTIVELY IN CROSS-CULTURAL SITUATIONS

(From the School for International Training) Use stereotypes as categories to be broken down, not built up. Start out with an acknowledgement of the existence of stereotypes, identify their positive and negative aspects from both points of view. Don’t compare apples and oranges. The inherent differences between cultures may make valid comparison impossible. The way something is done within the cultural and environmental setting of one country may not be adaptive in another setting. Get to know people as individuals, not as examples of a culture. Remember that even though there seem to be some generalizations to be made about any cultural group, individuals maintain a uniqueness within their own culture. No one individual is going to be a perfect example of that ethnic group. Take the initiative to be friendly. Bridging the cultural gap begins with overcoming that fear of something new or different. A positive, friendly attitude will be very helpful. Especially if you are in the minority group, remember that the majority doesn’t need to gain your acceptance, so it’s even more important to be open. Explain some facets of yourself if necessary. Let people know what makes you different from the stereotype, especially if you think you fall well outside the cultural norm. Don’t attempt to obliterate differences. We can all learn from different cultures. Remember that you are a sum of your lifetime of experience, both good and bad, within your own culture. You can’t just step out of that position and become totally objective. Don’t try to become one of the locals. Sometimes your attempts to mimic another culture can backfire, appearing as offensive. Cultural diversity is just as adaptive as biological diversity. Forge bonds with people in similar circumstances. Riding a bus together, taking some course, shopping – these situations give you common experiences and a starting point for conversation. Focus on a common task. Working together toward a common goal can help break down barriers.

** See Ivan Illich’s “To Hell with Good Intentions,” attached at the end of this packet. **

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Weather in Cape Town Cape Town weather is very similar to Stanford’s. Winters (June-August) are fairly mild (in the 50’s) and wet. Summers (December-February) are warm and much drier.

Weather in Cape Town, South Africa (from http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/)

Month Average Sunlight (hours)

Temperature Discomfort from heat

and humidity

Relative humidity

Average Precipitation

(mm)

Wet Days

(+0.25 mm)

Average Record

Min Max Min Max am pm Jan 11 61 78 44 99 Moderate 72 54 15 3 Feb 10 61 78 41 100 Moderate 77 54 8 2

March 9 57 77 43 102 Moderate 85 57 18 3 April 8 53 71 37 102 - 90 60 48 6 May 6 48 66 30 95 - 91 65 79 9 June 6 46 64 28 84 - 91 64 84 9 July 6 44 17 28 84 - 91 67 89 10 Aug 7 46 64 30 89 - 90 65 66 9 Sept 8 48 64 34 93 - 87 62 43 7 Oct 9 52 70 34 89 - 79 58 31 5 Nov 10 55 73 39 93 - 74 56 18 3 Dec 11 57 75 41 100 Moderate 71 54 10 3

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Packing List **Important note on packing** TRY NOT TO OVERPACK! Research the baggage limitations of the airlines you’re flying with – most charge large fees if you go over that limit. Also, you may want to bring home gifts and souvenirs, so it’s helpful to go over with room in your bags. Clothing – Pack according to the weather information above q Shorts / Skirts / Dresses / Pants

q T-shirts

q A couple more formal outfits --You’ll be spending part of your time in a professional setting (e.g. community organizations) Capetonians tend to be more laid back than Johannesburg counterparts, but ‘business casual’ is generally upheld in work environments.

q Sweatshirts/jackets

q Swimsuit – we’re near some of the

most beautiful beaches in the world

q Comfortable walking shoes, sandals,

one pair of nicer shoes

Other Useful Items q Water bottle

q Headlamp or flashlight

q Computer / Computer Lock

q Umbrella

q Camera

q Extra small duffle bag for short trips (i.e. the Bing trip) – also good for “spill over” stuff you have on the way home!

q Mesh laundry bag

q Any prescription medications you need (also bring a copy of the prescription signed by your doctor)

q South African

electrical adaptor (these can also be purchased cheaply once in SA) – do not bring small electronic appliances (e.g., hairdryer, hair straightener); they will not work with the SA electricity grid…buy them there from Clicks or similar

q Any toiletries that you want in a certain American brand (e.g. contact solution, over-the-counter medications)

Important Documents q Passport

q Debit / Credit cards – it’s good to have a back up card

q Photocopies of your passport, credit

cards, and IDs

Examples of things that can be purchased IN Cape Town Soap, toothpaste, lotion, razors, feminine products, other basic personal hygiene items, cosmetics, laundry detergent, school supplies.

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Observatory (Obs/Obz), Our Home The Stanford house and center are in an “urban village” known as Observatory. A short drive from the city center in one direction and townships in the other, Obs is a bohemian neighborhood that was historically mixed-race during apartheid. Home to many students and a great nightlife, Obs is a desirable place to live for locals and visitors alike!

Restaurants in the Obs Area (And there are many more than this to explore…) Obz Café Coffee bar & restaurant. 115 Lower Main Road, Observatory Mango Ginger Bakery and local/healthy food café. 105 Lower Main Road, Observatory Mimi's Deli and Café Breakfast all day, good sandwiches and homemade smoothies Lower Main Road, Observatory Cafe Ganesh Unique down to earth African no nonsense place for local artists, writers, performers foreign laid back visitors and local students. 66 Lower Main road/Trill Road, Observatory Pancho's Mexican Restaurant, comfy & casual 127 Lower Main Road, Observatory Coco Cha Chi A favorite of the 2008 group. Free wifi (with purchase). Good breakfast/lunch, coffee. A few popular items: the chocolate pear muffin and the mango mint smoothie. 20 Lower Main Road, Observatory Touch of Madness Casual bistro, lunch and dinner. 12 Nuttal Rd., Observatory Taste of Asia Sushi, Asian, Vegetarian for lunch or dinner 45 Lower Main Road Observatory

Baboo In the heart of lower main. It is an Italian restaurant, offering a great selection of pizza and pasta. Two for one on pizza daily before 8pm. The bar area is Obs’ trendiest bar, and offers a selection of cocktails, with comfortable seating a flat screen tvs. Blue Marlin Sushi and Asian food restaurant and cocktail bar. Also offers a take out menu. Sushi Zone Asian -- Japanese, Chinese, Korean menus. 34 Lower Main Road, Observatory Kuai Health Food – breakfast/lunch/dinner. Yummy smoothies, burgers, etc. Shop 7 Rondebosch Village Main Road Rondebosch Nandos in Rondebosch Fast food type chain – their signature is chicken. Shop 18 Rondebosch Shopping Centre Main Road, Rondebosch Africa Cafe (for special occasions) http://www.africacafe.co.za/ Family style, price-fixed menu – they call it a “communal feast” consisting of traditional Ndebele, Xhosa and Zulu dishes (you get a small taste of everything) Incredible food! 108 Shortmarket St Cape Town City Centre, Cape Town ** Also, Obz has a McDonalds and KFC now, if that’s your thing

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NORTH

EAST

SOUTH

St Peter’s Square

Jammie Stop

Stanford Centre

Our Houses

Stanford House

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Grocery stores, post offices, pharmacies, etc. Pick 'n Pay Observatory, Shop 1, St Peter’s Square, Cnr Main & Anzio Rd, Observatory Pick n’ Pay is the equivalent to Safeway – you can get all of your groceries there, as well as airtime for your cell phone and kitchen supplies (like Tupperware or coffee cups). Remember to bring your recycled bags, because groceries stores in South Africa charge for new ones. Just 5-6 blocks from the Stanford houses. Post Office Located above the Pick n’ Pay in St Peter’s Square (right near the Jammie stop)

Kwikspar 65 Station Rd Observatory Kwikspar, a relative of the bigger Spar chain in South Africa, is smaller and maybe a bit more expensive than Pick ‘n Pay. That said, it’s about 2 blocks from the house, so very convenient. Pharmacy Closest is also in the same center as Pick n’ Pay (St Peter’s Square).

Places to Stay (For friends, family, or you should you be arriving early or staying late!) Koornhoop Manor House Cnr Wrensch / London Roads Observatory, Cape Town (+27) 021-4480595 Just 2 minutes walk from the Stanford houses -- 8 en-suite double and single rooms and 2 large furnished self-catering apartments (3 bedrooms, lounge and kitchen). Offers a full-spread continental breakfast, secure parking, a beautiful big garden to relax in, and personalized service from hosts - Vic and Trish Smith 33 South Boutique backpackers 33 South, 48 Trill Road Observatory, Cape Town (+27) 21 447 24 23 email: info@33southbackpackers.com

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http://www.33southbackpackers.com/ Opened at the end of 2007, just around the corner from the Stanford houses. "Boutique Backpackers" is a new concept which describes 33 South's ideal: a trendy, themed, stylish, clean, comfortable (boutique) establishment which still maintains the key features of a great backpackers: it's homely, communal, affordable, safe and has a self-catering option. We invite you to see Cape Town through local eyes, and experience it as a proud South African would. Brentwood Guest house +27 (0) 21 448-8840 8 en suite double rooms (3 with fireplace). Home from home hospitality and value-for-money accommodation. Dinner on request. No children under 12. Little Scotia Guest house 5 Rustenburg Avenue Rondebosch , Cape Town Tel: (+27 21) 686 8245 email: scotia@new.co.za http://www.scotia.co.za/ Fifteen guest-room B&B located in Rondebosch (two neighborhoods over from Obs). “Little Scotia is a relaxed and homely Bed & Breakfast guest house in the heart of historic Rondebosch on the doorstep of the University of Cape Town (UCT). The homestead, though steeped in history, has been tastefully modernized.” Aloe House B&B Frank Gaude 12 Howe Street Observatory, Cape Town Tel: +27 214485337 E-Mail: frank@aloehouse.co.za http://www.aloehouse.co.za Small (2 room) guest house located 4 or 5 blocks away from the Stanford houses. Wild sage Mountain B&B 70 Arnold Street Observatory,Cape Town Small B&B offering 2 self-catering apartments (each with 2 rooms). Also about 5 blocks from the Stanford houses. At Villa Garda B&B (Mowbray)

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5 Osborne Rd Mowbray, Cape Town Frederic Rusterholz +27 21 762 1543 Villa Garda offers 7 fully decorated guest rooms all en-suite bathroom with shower. Amenities in each room are aimed at maximising convenience and comfort for the guest. About a 15-20 minute walk from the Stanford houses. Malleson Garden Cottage ( Mowbray) http://www.capetown-direct.com/mowbray/malleson-garden-cottage 11 Malleson Rd, Mowbray Self-contained garden cottage. Double bedroom, separate bathroom, and an open plan kitchen / lounge / dining room. Fully furnished and equipped. Linen and towels are provided. The cottage is serviced / linens replaced twice per week. Secure off-street parking is available.

Places to Go Read your guidebook, talk to your professors and other locals – there are plenty of places to see! Among my favorites:

• Table Mountain: (self explanatory) Incredible views of Cape Town … ride the cable car up or talk to one of the BOSP staff about how to hike safely in the area. http://tablemountain.net/

• Old Biscuit Mill: About a 30 min walk from the house. Produce, cheeses, artisan breads, vintage collectables, etc. market, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. on Saturdays. Turns into a vintage fair on Sundays - Open the rest of the week with shops. http://www.theoldbiscuitmill.co.za/

• District Six Museum: Very well thought-out museum about District 6 http://www.districtsix.co.za/frames.htm

• Mzoli’s in Gugulethu: Literally, you go into a butchers shop and pick out the meat/sausage you want, then you go sit down while they barbeque it for you (called Braai in South Africa)

• Around Cape Point: a good adventure to rent a bus for, and go on as a group

• Beaches: Cape Town has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world – check out your guidebook for recommendations.

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• Green Market Square: loads of traditional African art pieces, curios, and everything else you would expect to find at a craft market. Very close to the main downtown train station, and Long Street (a popular street for shopping and going out at night)

• Kirstenbosch: South Africa’s incredibly beautiful national botanical garden, set into the eastern side of Table Mountain. In the summer, there are outside concerts at the Kirstenbosch amphitheater. http://www.sanbi.org/frames/kirstfram.htm

• Two Ocean’s Aquarium: A great aquarium showcasing the animals living in the Atlantic and Indian oceans that meet at the Cape Point http://www.aquarium.co.za/

Websites to Check Out University of Cape Town: http://www.uct.ac.za/ Information about societies and sports clubs, library info, daily news, etc. Mail & Guardian: http://www.mg.co.za/ Well respected weekly newspaper. Started in 1985, the Mail & Guardian was widely read by those interested in South African politics. South Africa: The Good News: http://www.sagoodnews.co.za A news website that highlights the positive developments in South Africa. City of Cape Town website: http://www.capetown.gov.za Keep up on local issues.

An assortment of other frequently asked questions… What should I know to become better acquainted with the people and culture of Cape Town? (Adapted from UConn Cape Town Guide) One of the biggest difficulties in adjustment that students experience in CPT is getting use to the pace of life in the city. Cape Town and South Africa move on their own timetable and things generally run a lot slower here. Once you adjust to it, it’s actually really pleasant, described by many students as the best part of studying here. With that in mind people generally try not to have incredibly hectic schedules like they do in the states. So while each of you are probably used to having 15-18 hours of classes, volunteering in your free time, and still making time for friends, etc, it just doesn’t work here. It’s hard to explain but once you are here you’ll understand what I’m talking about.

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Am I going to stand out as an American? Yes. But this doesn’t have to be a bad thing. There are a lot of Americans here in Cape Town, and American culture (music, dress, movies, celebrities) is well-known here. People are generally curious to know more about you – so talk to them and hear what some of their perceptions are! Are there going to be any opportunities to travel outside of Cape Town while we are there? Yes, some. We will go on a Bing weekend trip during the quarter and there will be some free weekends that you and your friend may want to use to rent a car and explore nearby areas. It’s good to keep in mind though, that you’ll be doing a full Stanford course-load while here (don’t worry, a good amount of the course work has you out in the communities) so you’ll be busy! Do I need to bring malaria pills? You do NOT need malaria medicine for Cape Town (we don’t have the mosquitoes that carry malaria here). If you are planning to travel to other parts of South Africa (e.g. Kruger National Park) before, during, or after your quarter in Cape Town, you may need malaria medicine. You can either bring some from the states, or buy it here. What should I do about accessing money in Cape Town? What bank should I use? Should I use an ATM card or a credit Card? Should I bring money or traveler’s checks? The best way to access money in Cape Town and South Africa is using an ATM. The best strategy is to go once during the week and take out all the cash you will need for that week. Then go home, put away your card and money in a safe place and only carry with you the money you will need for that day. Check with your bank about the foreign withdrawal fee. Some banks (e.g. Citibank and the Stanford Federal Credit Union) don’t charge a fee, many others do. It may be worth opening an account with the SFCU before leaving campus. Do not bring traveler’s checks or a large sum of U.S. dollars to exchange – this will likely be a hassle for you. To what address can my friends and family send me mail while I’m in Cape Town? Stanford Centre in Cape Town (YOUR NAME) P.O. Box 14041 Mowbray Cape Town 7705 SOUTH AFRICA

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To Hell with Good Intentions by Ivan Illich

An address by Monsignor Ivan Illich to the Conference on InterAmerican Student Projects (CIASP) in Cuernavaca, Mexico, on April 20, 1968. In his usual biting and sometimes sarcastic style, Illich goes to the heart of the deep dangers of paternalism inherent in any voluntary service activity, but especially in any international service "mission." Parts of the speech are outdated and must be viewed in the historical context of 1968 when it was delivered, but the entire speech is retained for the full impact of his point and at Ivan Illich's request.

IN THE CONVERSATIONS WHICH I HAVE HAD TODAY, I was impressed by two things, and I want to state them before I launch into my prepared talk.

I was impressed by your insight that the motivation of U.S. volunteers overseas springs mostly from very alienated feelings and concepts. I was equally impressed, by what I interpret as a step forward among would-be volunteers like you: openness to the idea that the only thing you can legitimately volunteer for in Latin America might be voluntary powerlessness, voluntary presence as receivers, as such, as hopefully beloved or adopted ones without any way of returning the gift.

I was equally impressed by the hypocrisy of most of you: by the hypocrisy of the atmosphere prevailing here. I say this as a brother speaking to brothers and sisters. I say it against many resistances within me; but it must be said. Your very insight, your very openness to evaluations of past programs make you hypocrites because you - or at least most of you - have decided to spend this next summer in Mexico, and therefore, you are unwilling to go far enough in your reappraisal of your program. You close your eyes because you want to go ahead and could not do so if you looked at some facts.

It is quite possible that this hypocrisy is unconscious in most of you. Intellectually, you are ready to see that the motivations which could legitimate volunteer action overseas in 1963 cannot be invoked for the same action in 1968. "Mission-vacations" among poor Mexicans were "the thing" to do for well-off U.S. students earlier in this decade: sentimental concern for newly-discovered poverty south of the border combined with total blindness to much worse poverty at home justified such benevolent excursions. Intellectual insight into the difficulties of fruitful volunteer action had not sobered the spirit of Peace Corps Papal-and-Self-Styled Volunteers.

Today, the existence of organizations like yours is offensive to Mexico. I wanted to make this statement in order to explain why I feel sick about it all and in order to make you aware that good intentions have not much to do with what we are discussing here. To hell with good intentions. This is a theological statement. You will not help anybody by your good intentions. There is an Irish saying that the road to hell is paved with good intentions; this sums up the same theological insight.

The very frustration which participation in CIASP programs might mean for you, could lead you to new awareness: the awareness that even North Americans can receive the gift of hospitality without the slightest ability to pay for it; the awareness that for some gifts one cannot even say "thank you."

Now to my prepared statement.

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Ladies and Gentlemen:

For the past six years I have become known for my increasing opposition to the presence of any and all North American "dogooders" in Latin America. I am sure you know of my present efforts to obtain the voluntary withdrawal of all North American volunteer armies from Latin America - missionaries, Peace Corps members and groups like yours, a "division" organized for the benevolent invasion of Mexico. You were aware of these things when you invited me - of all people - to be the main speaker at your annual convention. This is amazing! I can only conclude that your invitation means one of at least three things: Some among you might have reached the conclusion that CIASP should either dissolve altogether, or take the promotion of voluntary aid to the Mexican poor out of its institutional purpose. Therefore you might have invited me here to help others reach this same decision.

You might also have invited me because you want to learn how to deal with people who think the way I do - how to dispute them successfully. It has now become quite common to invite Black Power spokesmen to address Lions Clubs. A "dove" must always be included in a public dispute organized to increase U.S. belligerence.

And finally, you might have invited me here hoping that you would be able to agree with most of what I say, and then go ahead in good faith and work this summer in Mexican villages. This last possibility is only open to those who do not listen, or who cannot understand me.

I did not come here to argue. I am here to tell you, if possible to convince you, and hopefully, to stop you, from pretentiously imposing yourselves on Mexicans.

I do have deep faith in the enormous good will of the U.S. volunteer. However, his good faith can usually be explained only by an abysmal lack of intuitive delicacy. By definition, you cannot help being ultimately vacationing salesmen for the middle-class "American Way of Life," since that is really the only life you know. A group like this could not have developed unless a mood in the United States had supported it - the belief that any true American must share God's blessings with his poorer fellow men. The idea that every American has something to give, and at all times may, can and should give it, explains why it occurred to students that they could help Mexican peasants "develop" by spending a few months in their villages.

Of course, this surprising conviction was supported by members of a missionary order, who would have no reason to exist unless they had the same conviction - except a much stronger one. It is now high time to cure yourselves of this. You, like the values you carry, are the products of an American society of achievers and consumers, with its two-party system, its universal schooling, and its family-car affluence. You are ultimately-consciously or unconsciously - "salesmen" for a delusive ballet in the ideas of democracy, equal opportunity and free enterprise among people who haven't the possibility of profiting from these.

Next to money and guns, the third largest North American export is the U.S. idealist, who turns up in every theater of the world: the teacher, the volunteer, the missionary, the community organizer, the economic developer, and the vacationing do-gooders. Ideally, these people define their role as service. Actually, they frequently wind up alleviating the damage done by money and

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weapons, or "seducing" the "underdeveloped" to the benefits of the world of affluence and achievement. Perhaps this is the moment to instead bring home to the people of the U.S. the knowledge that the way of life they have chosen simply is not alive enough to be shared.

By now it should be evident to all America that the U.S. is engaged in a tremendous struggle to survive. The U.S. cannot survive if the rest of the world is not convinced that here we have Heaven-on-Earth. The survival of the U.S. depends on the acceptance by all so-called "free" men that the U.S. middle class has "made it." The U.S. way of life has become a religion which must be accepted by all those who do not want to die by the sword - or napalm. All over the globe the U.S. is fighting to protect and develop at least a minority who consume what the U.S. majority can afford. Such is the purpose of the Alliance for Progress of the middle-classes which the U.S. signed with Latin America some years ago. But increasingly this commercial alliance must be protected by weapons which allow the minority who can "make it" to protect their acquisitions and achievements.

But weapons are not enough to permit minority rule. The marginal masses become rambunctious unless they are given a "Creed," or belief which explains the status quo. This task is given to the U.S. volunteer - whether he be a member of CLASP or a worker in the so-called "Pacification Programs" in Viet Nam.

The United States is currently engaged in a three-front struggle to affirm its ideals of acquisitive and achievement-oriented "Democracy." I say "three" fronts, because three great areas of the world are challenging the validity of a political and social system which makes the rich ever richer, and the poor increasingly marginal to that system.

In Asia, the U.S. is threatened by an established power -China. The U.S. opposes China with three weapons: the tiny Asian elites who could not have it any better than in an alliance with the United States; a huge war machine to stop the Chinese from "taking over" as it is usually put in this country, and; forcible re-education of the so-called "Pacified" peoples. All three of these efforts seem to be failing.

In Chicago, poverty funds, the police force and preachers seem to be no more successful in their efforts to check the unwillingness of the black community to wait for graceful integration into the system.

And finally, in Latin America the Alliance for Progress has been quite successful in increasing the number of people who could not be better off - meaning the tiny, middle-class elites - and has created ideal conditions for military dictatorships. The dictators were formerly at the service of the plantation owners, but now they protect the new industrial complexes. And finally, you come to help the underdog accept his destiny within this process!

All you will do in a Mexican village is create disorder. At best, you can try to convince Mexican girls that they should marry a young man who is self-made, rich, a consumer, and as disrespectful of tradition as one of you. At worst, in your "community development" spirit you might create just enough problems to get someone shot after your vacation ends_ and you rush back to your middleclass neighborhoods where your friends make jokes about "spits" and "wetbacks."

You start on your task without any training. Even the Peace Corps spends around $10,000 on each corps member to help him adapt to his new environment and to guard him against culture shock. How odd that nobody ever thought about spending money to educate poor Mexicans in

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order to prevent them from the culture shock of meeting you? In fact, you cannot even meet the majority which you pretend to serve in Latin America - even if you could speak their language, which most of you cannot. You can only dialogue with those like you - Latin American imitations of the North American middle class. There is no way for you to really meet with the underprivileged, since there is no common ground whatsoever for you to meet on.

Let me explain this statement, and also let me explain why most Latin Americans with whom you might be able to communicate would disagree with me.

Suppose you went to a U.S. ghetto this summer and tried to help the poor there "help themselves." Very soon you would be either spit upon or laughed at. People offended by your pretentiousness would hit or spit. People who understand that your own bad consciences push you to this gesture would laugh condescendingly. Soon you would be made aware of your irrelevance among the poor, of your status as middle-class college students on a summer assignment. You would be roundly rejected, no matter if your skin is white-as most of your faces here are-or brown or black, as a few exceptions who got in here somehow.

Your reports about your work in Mexico, which you so kindly sent me, exude self-complacency. Your reports on past summers prove that you are not even capable of understanding that your dogooding in a Mexican village is even less relevant than it would be in a U.S. ghetto. Not only is there a gulf between what you have and what others have which is much greater than the one existing between you and the poor in your own country, but there is also a gulf between what you feel and what the Mexican people feel that is incomparably greater. This gulf is so great that in a Mexican village you, as White Americans (or cultural white Americans) can imagine yourselves exactly the way a white preacher saw himself when he offered his life preaching to the black slaves on a plantation in Alabama. The fact that you live in huts and eat tortillas for a few weeks renders your well-intentioned group only a bit more picturesque.

The only people with whom you can hope to communicate with are some members of the middle class. And here please remember that I said "some" -by which I mean a tiny elite in Latin America.

You come from a country which industrialized early and which succeeded in incorporating the great majority of its citizens into the middle classes. It is no social distinction in the U.S. to have graduated from the second year of college. Indeed, most Americans now do. Anybody in this country who did not finish high school is considered underprivileged.

In Latin America the situation is quite different: 75% of all people drop out of school before they reach the sixth grade. Thus, people who have finished high school are members of a tiny minority. Then, a minority of that minority goes on for university training. It is only among these people that you will find your educational equals.

At the same time, a middle class in the United States is the majority. In Mexico, it is a tiny elite. Seven years ago your country began and financed a so-called "Alliance for Progress." This was an "Alliance" for the "Progress" of the middle class elites. Now. it is among the members of this middle class that you will find a few people who are willing to send their time with you_ And they are overwhelmingly those "nice kids" who would also like to soothe their troubled consciences by "doing something nice for the promotion of the poor Indians." Of course, when you and your middleclass Mexican counterparts meet, you will be told that you are doing

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something valuable, that you are "sacrificing" to help others. And it will be the foreign priest who will especially confirm your self-image for you. After all, his livelihood and sense of purpose depends on his firm belief in a year-round mission which is of the same type as your summer vacation-mission.

There exists the argument that some returned volunteers have gained insight into the damage they have done to others - and thus become more mature people. Yet it is less frequently stated that most of them are ridiculously proud of their "summer sacrifices." Perhaps there is also something to the argument that young men should be promiscuous for awhile in order to find out that sexual love is most beautiful in a monogamous relationship. Or that the best way to leave LSD alone is to try it for awhile -or even that the best way of understanding that your help in the ghetto is neither needed nor wanted is to try, and fail. I do not agree with this argument. The damage which volunteers do willy-nilly is too high a price for the belated insight that they shouldn't have been volunteers in the first place.

If you have any sense of responsibility at all, stay with your riots here at home. Work for the coming elections: You will know what you are doing, why you are doing it, and how to communicate with those to whom you speak. And you will know when you fail. If you insist on working with the poor, if this is your vocation, then at least work among the poor who can tell you to go to hell. It is incredibly unfair for you to impose yourselves on a village where you are so linguistically deaf and dumb that you don't even understand what you are doing, or what people think of you. And it is profoundly damaging to yourselves when you define something that you want to do as "good," a "sacrifice" and "help."

I am here to suggest that you voluntarily renounce exercising the power which being an American gives you. I am here to entreat you to freely, consciously and humbly give up the legal right you have to impose your benevolence on Mexico. I am here to challenge you to recognize your inability, your powerlessness and your incapacity to do the "good" which you intended to do.

I am here to entreat you to use your money, your status and your education to travel in Latin America. Come to look, come to climb our mountains, to enjoy our flowers. Come to study. But do not come to help.

Ivan Illich is the author of Deschooling Society and other provocative books. Thanks to Nick Royal, Tim Stanton, and Steve Babb for helping to find this speech.

Some Thought Questions:

1. Clearly, Illich’s address is given in 1963 to people going to Mexico for the summer – not in 2010 to Stanford students going to Cape Town. But did anything ring true for you in Illich’s speech? Did it anger you? With what parts do you agree/disagree?

2. Should we just not do “service” in other countries then? Is it possible to go about helping

a place that’s not your home? What does “service learning” mean to you?