CROSSFIRE Compressor - LCO Technologies...CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full...

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CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full Instruction Video on YouTube V1.0 Warning: It is critical when completing soft goods maintenance practice, to take precautions to keep all compressor components clean. The introduction of small particles, dirt, or even Teflon tape scraps from tubing may affect compressor performance. It is recommended that rebuilds are completed in a clean workshop, not directly on a well site. Parts Breakdown: 1x Load Block 4x Metal Shims 4x Roller Bearings 4x Top Bushing O-rings 4x Bottom Bushing O-rings 4x Copper Gaskets 4x Piston U-Cup Seals 4x V90 Valve O-rings Recommended Tools and Cleaning Products: Isopropyl alcohol and paper towel Allen Keys: 2.5mm Torque Wrench: Set to 80in lbs Sockets: 7/16”, 5/16”, 10 mm Wrench: 11/16” Crescent wrench Straight Pick Optional: Rubber mallet Top to bottom, left to right: V90 valve O-rings, piston u-cups, load block, bottom bushing o-rings, top bushing o-rings, bearings, shims, and copper gaskets Required Lubricant and compound: Lubricant: Red N Tacky Heat Compound: HY400 Thermal Grease Step 1: Stop compressor and remove tubing Stop the compressor and follow individual company lock out procedures for safety Disconnect the tubing upstream of the check valve (on the compressor side) o The volume bottle does not need to be drained prior, leaving it charged gives the opportunity to function test the check valve o If the check valve is leaking, replace Disconnect the top and bottom tubing from the inlet and outlet valves Remove the fan cowling and use the 10mm or 5/16” socket to remove the fan blades up and off the compressor Remove the acrylic top plate and set aside

Transcript of CROSSFIRE Compressor - LCO Technologies...CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full...

  • CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full Instruction Video on YouTube

    V1.0

    Warning: It is critical when completing soft goods maintenance practice, to take precautions to keep all compressor components clean. The introduction of small particles, dirt, or even Teflon tape scraps from tubing may affect compressor performance. It is recommended that rebuilds are completed in a clean workshop, not directly on a well site.

    Parts Breakdown:

    − 1x Load Block − 4x Metal Shims − 4x Roller Bearings − 4x Top Bushing O-rings − 4x Bottom Bushing O-rings − 4x Copper Gaskets − 4x Piston U-Cup Seals − 4x V90 Valve O-rings

    Recommended Tools and Cleaning Products: − Isopropyl alcohol and paper towel − Allen Keys: 2.5mm − Torque Wrench: Set to 80in lbs − Sockets: 7/16”, 5/16”, 10 mm − Wrench: 11/16” − Crescent wrench − Straight Pick − Optional: Rubber mallet

    Top to bottom, left to right: V90 valve O-rings, piston u-cups, load block, bottom bushing o-rings, top

    bushing o-rings, bearings, shims, and copper gaskets

    Required Lubricant and compound:

    − Lubricant: Red N Tacky − Heat Compound: HY400 Thermal Grease

    Step 1: Stop compressor and remove tubing

    − Stop the compressor and follow individual company lock out procedures for safety − Disconnect the tubing upstream of the check valve (on the compressor side)

    o The volume bottle does not need to be drained prior, leaving it charged gives the opportunity to function test the check valve

    o If the check valve is leaking, replace − Disconnect the top and bottom tubing from the inlet and outlet valves − Remove the fan cowling and use the 10mm or 5/16” socket to remove the fan blades up and off

    the compressor − Remove the acrylic top plate and set aside

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    Step 2: Dis-assemble compressor

    − Using a crescent wrench, loosen and crack the top and bottom bushings open o Leave them attached, but loosened until step 3

    − Use the 7/16” socket to undo the four ¼” x 20 x 4 ¼” bolts holding the compressor heads on the top works platform

    o Carefully pull the compressor heads out and off the platform o Set aside until step 3

    − Pull cylinders out and off the top works platform − Use a screwdriver or allen key to remove the four screws in the trunnions holding the thrust rods

    and attached pitons in place. Set screws aside. (Photo A) o Slide the thrust rods with attached pistons out of the trunnions and top works

    − Pull the trunnions (including the middle white Teflon load block), up and out of the top works platform

    o Note which trunnion is the top trunnion, and which is the bottom trunnion o Pull the trunnions apart and take the load block out of the trunnions

    − Remove middle bearing/cam wheel out of the load bock o The load block has a lip on one side to prevent the cam wheel from falling out. Gently

    push the cam wheel out of the side without the lip with the heels of your palms. If necessary, gently tap with a rubber mallet. (Photo B)

    Photo A

    Photo B

    Step 3: Clean components and dispose of used soft goods

    − Load Block & Trunnions o Throw out the old white load block containing four shims and roller bearings o Clean the cam wheel and trunnions off with isopropyl alcohol and ensure no leftover

    lubricant is present o Inspect parts for any damage. The trunnions should be flat and uniform on the interior

    with no scrapes worn in the metal. o Use paper towel and isopropyl alcohol to clean out the bare top works o Take extra care to remove any particulates in the top works and side bushings

    − Thrust rods with attached pistons o Remove the old piston U-Cup seal out of the piston groove. Dispose the old U-cup.

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    o Clean the piston and attached thrust rod, taking extra care to clean the groove out (Photo C)

    o Inspect parts for any damage − Compressor heads

    o Remove the old copper gaskets and dispose them o Clean heads off o Unscrew top bushing (from air outlet), remove top large o-ring, and dispose. Remove the

    small o-ring on the tip of the conical valve and dispose o Clean valve, guide, and cavity (Photo D) o Unscrew bottom bushing (from air inlet), remove and dispose of large O-ring. Clean

    inside seat, spring, and Teflon ball. (Photo E) Note: The spring may be stuck inside the compressor head, check, remove the

    spring, and clean it off − Cylinders

    o Clean inside of cylinder o Pay extra attention and look for any scoring in the cylinder. The finish on the interior

    should be mirror like, any scoring may affect future compressor performance

    Photo C

    Photo D

    Photo E

    Note: if any components outside of the standard soft goods appear damaged, contact your supplier for replacement parts. Re-use of damaged components may affect compressor performance. Step 4: Re-build Compressor

    − Load block and trunnions o Locate the new white load block and old cam wheel (Photo F) o Gently push the cam wheel into the new load block in the side with no lip using the heels

    of your palms. If necessary, gently tap with a rubber mallet. The cam wheel should sit flush in the load block

    o Insert four new metal shims into the four sides of the load block o Apply a pea sized amount of Red N Tacky lubricant on each shim and insert a roller

    bearing over the shim. Roll the bearing back and forth to help spread the lubricant and get the bearing to stick in place. Repeat on all four sides. (Photo G)

    o Locate the top and bottom trunnions set aside during disassembly. Place the bottom trunnion down and insert the new load block into the trunnion with the lip side down. This ensures the cam wheel does not fall out of the load block.

    o Carefully place the top trunnion over the load block and ensure the roller bearings are encased in the trunnion and rolling as expected. (Photo H)

    o Place the completed load block trunnion set back into the top works - line up the key-hole

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    Photo G

    − Cylinders, thrust rods and attached pistons o Locate the four new U-cup seals o Apply a small dot of Red N Tacky lubricant in the clean piston groove o Place the U-cup seal into the piston grove and rotate it around so the lubricant spreads

    out Make sure that the “U” portion of the seal is facing away from the attached thrust

    rod and towards the piston bolt (Photo I) Repeat on the remaining three pistons. Make sure the U-cup seal is not twisted

    in the groove. (Photo J) o Locate clean cylinders and apply a pea sized amount of Red N Tacky lubricant inside

    the cylinder. Spread lubricant around so there is a thin, even layer present. o Slide the cylinder onto the top works and loosely attach by centering the cylinder around

    the thrust rod hole and surrounding bushing. Ensure the side with the attached mesh screen is closest to the top works and that the screen is facing down.

    o Slide the thrust rod with attached piston into the cylinder (thrust rod enters first) and slide the thrust rod through the hole on the side of the top works The piston will help hold the cylinder in place Insert the thrust rods into the trunnions and use a straight pick to line up the hole

    in the thrust rod and the trunnion. Insert the original screws back into place and tighten. (Photo K)

    Recommendation: Attach the thrust rods into the bottom trunnions first, then attach the two for the top trunnion.

    Caution: The trunnion bolts can break if the thrust rod hole and trunnion hole are not properly aligned. If you feel any resistance while screwing the bolt in, re-align with a straight pick and try again.

    o Apply a small amount of lubricant (Red N Tacky) to all sides of the white load block and thrust rods. Note: Temporarily screw in an M5 or M6 bolt (depending on gearbox) to help

    manually rotate the motor. This will help expose all sides of the load bock and thrust rods to get an even distribution of lubricant.

    o At this step, the center top works is now rebuilt, and cylinders and pistons are properly attached

    Photo F Photo H

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    − Compressor heads o Using a Q-tip, apply a thin layer of heat compound to the lip of the cylinder that will touch

    the new copper gaskets when attached (Photo L) Note: Heat compound is a necessary component to ensure heat transfers from

    the cylinders to the compressor head and through the heat sinks. Please use the included heat compound and do not skip this step.

    o Slide the four ¼” x 20 x 4 ¼” bolts back through the compressor head o Using a Q-tip, apply a small amount of heat compound in a circular pattern where the

    compressor cylinders will likely be sitting (Photo M) o Locate the new copper gaskets and slide one copper gasket over the four bolts and

    down onto the compressor head valve. Ensure the two center holes for air flow on the cylinder head align with the holes in the copper gasket (Photo N)

    o Grab the entire head assembly and hold it up to the cylinder on the Top Works. Ensure the top bushing (outlet) is facing up.

    o Line up the four bolts with the four holes on the top works and hand tighten the bolts in a cross hatched pattern until they are very loosely tightened. (Photo O)

    o Repeat on the remaining three compressor heads o Using the torque wrench set at 80in lbs. and a 7/16” socket, tighten the bolts down

    slowly in a cross hatched pattern. When the torque wrench clicks one, stop tightening. The bolt is now tightened perfectly. Repeat on the remaining compressor head bolts.

    o Caution: The compressor bolts must be tightened equally on all four sides to the exact torque spec to ensure airtight seal. Carefully tighten bolts in a cross hatched pattern working to keep bolts as square and evenly tightened during the process as possible.

    Photo I

    Photo J

    Photo K

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    Photo L

    − Attach top and bottom bushings for inlet and outlet valves

    o Locate the four bottom bushings, four springs, four Teflon ball, and four new Buna O-rings Stretch the four Buna o-rings over the outside threading and into the groove on

    the bushing (Photo P) Apply a rice grain sized amount of Red N Tacky lubricant to the Teflon ball and

    inside seat of the bottom bushing and place the Teflon ball in the bushing. Carefully balance a spring on the Teflon ball and carefully take the bushing

    assembly and screw it into the bottom of the compressor head valve. Be very cautious to ensure the spring is centered and standing up right. (Photo Q)

    Tighten the bushing to ensure no air leak and repeat on the remaining compressor heads.

    o Locate the four top bushings, stem, guide and spring along with the four new bushing o-rings and four new small V90 valve o-rings Note: The o-rings for the top bushings are much thicker than the ones used for

    the bottom bushings. (Photo R) Stretch the new bushing o-ring over the outside threading and into the groove on

    the top bushing. Ensure the o-ring is not twisted. (Photo S) Stretch the new valve V90 o-ring (smallest size) over the valve and into the

    groove. Move the O-ring around and ensure it is not twisted. (Photo T) Apply a rice grain sized amount of Red N Tacky lubricant to the valve stem and

    valve o-ring. Attach the spring on the white guide and slide the valve stem in through the spring and into the guide. Carefully place the guide into the top bushing and insert the top bushing assembly back into the compressor head, the valve will sit into the conical hole in the compressor head. (Photo U)

    The valve stem must be square so take extra caution to line components up.

    Photo M

    Photo N

    Photo O

  • CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full Instruction Video on YouTube

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    Photo Q

    Photo T

    Photo U

    Photo P

    Photo S

    Photo R

  • CROSSFIRE Compressor: Soft Goods Replacement Kit Full Instruction Video on YouTube

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    Step 5: Attach fan, attach tubing and test compressor − Start the compressor and feel the outlet valves to check air flow. There should be consistent

    pulses of air out of the four outlets, making four puffs per rotation. o If air flow does not appear consistent, call LCO Technologies for assistance

    − Stop compressor and re-attach the top and bottom tubing − Re-attach the acrylic cover − Re-attach fan blades

    o Screw the M5 or M6 ready rod into the output shaft of the gearbox o Slide the flat washer over the ready rod in the center o Place the tubing over the ready rod o Slide the remaining lock washer and flat washer over the ready rod so it sits against the

    top of the tubing o Place the fan blades on top – it should just rest on the ready rod/tubing stand

    Install the nut on top of the fan assembly – tighten sufficiently Note: Depending on purchase date of compressor, the ready rod will either be M5 or M6, affecting the nut size for the rod. It is recommended to carry both a 5/16” and 10 mm socket for both options.

    − Place the fan cowling back over the unit − Complete!